Article: 323037 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Pete_O" Subject: Re: Stewart Warner 325 TRF B+ switching. Why??? Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 09:19:47 +0200 Message-ID: <2d376a695fafd5cb2af27aacffccb6a0@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> References: <1127510058.980353.178750@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Lots of radios from the 20's had similar circuits. The purpose is to allow you to remove the last tube and still operate the radio. It was a primative way to control the volume of the radio and reduce battery consumption. Jim Wilhelm Pete_O wrote: > I went nuts today with a Stewart Warner 325 TRF; it seems that there is Thanks Jim. TRF's are "new" to my collection and I am trying to learn the ancient ways. Last nite I found that the two audio coupling xfmrs in the SW were open (pri and sec); then I checked the xfmrs in my new AK20- they are open also. Every radio is an experience. -Pete AI2V Article: 323038 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 09:32:32 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> <8vcZe.81697$DW1.44479@fed1read06> Message-ID: <90a36$43355573$4232bd68$10077@COQUI.NET> Uncle Peter wrote: > > The diodes should work, BUT, unless you are using Zeners, you'd > best use two strings of regular diodes (protecting both polarities); > just in case you reverse the B+ on filaments by accident! > > Pete > > > Good point. If one is going to connect the batteries incorrectly a number of various combinations could occur. BTW, I tested a 1A fast blow fuse across the B battery. Didn't blow instantly but it blew in "faster than a fraction" of a second. -Bill Article: 323039 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Matt The Cat" References: <1127507567.538977.8040@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Looking for Westinghouse Info Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 14:29:43 GMT Thanks Phil. That's very helpful. Matt "philsvintageradios" wrote in message news:1127507567.538977.8040@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > > Matt you are in luck , it is on nostalgiaair > Phil > > http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/304/M0024304.htm > Article: 323040 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Matt The Cat" References: Subject: Re: Looking for Westinghouse Radio Info Message-ID: <6qdZe.2116$WT3.418@trnddc03> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 14:30:26 GMT Thanks Jim, Great info. Matt "jim menning" wrote in message news:oVZYe.31747$mb4.27852@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > "Matt The Cat" wrote in message > news:BmYYe.194$WT3.78@trnddc03... >> I'm looking for information on what I believe to be a 1936 Westinghouse >> radio. >> >> I believe the model number is: WR-373A >> The Chassis number looks to be: RC-474A >> >> Does anyone know of a database with info on Westinghouse radios? >> >> Thanks, >> Matt >> > > It's listed in the Stein console book, (The Complete Price Guide to > Antique Radios: Pre-War Consoles) value $125, 7 tubes, 2 bands. > > Schematics can be found here: > http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/304/M0024304.pdf > > jim menning > > > Article: 323041 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Raymond Koonce Subject: Re: ST-70 Update References: <1127502671.484682.166780@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1127509827.516463.209930@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <4b%Ye.377$Xl2.147@twister.nyroc.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 10:22:04 -0500 I'm also surprised with the comment about the HF-20. I have a trio of HF-22s (monoblock version of HF-20) and they're sweet little amps. Very good output iron. Raymond Lou deGonzague wrote: > I'm surprised that you would say that about the HF-20. The output > transformers look to be of real quality and I've read nothing but good > reviews on it. I suppose the tone control circuits could be bypassed to > have the least coloration of the signal if you already have a preamp. > > John Stone wrote: > >> >> >> On 9/23/05 5:18 PM, in article 4b%Ye.377$Xl2.147@twister.nyroc.rr.com, >> "Lou >> deGonzague" wrote: >> >> >>> I have a really nice ST-70 with perfect chrome that I am ready to start >>> working on. I purchased a new board(stock set up) from a guy on ebay >>> that will get new components as well as the AES cap. My dilemma is >>> whether to keep it or sell for big bux on ebay. I have a pair of Eico >>> HF-20's and a Fisher SA 300 (4 EL34 power amp) so I have choices to >>> make. >>> >> >> I'd keep the Fisher and sell the Dyna. The HF20 is not in the same >> league. >> Article: 323042 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: AK-60 Questions Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 17:26:15 GMT Once again I've had a little free time this afternoon, so I decided to take another quick look at this AK-60. First thing, to satisfy my curiosity, I decided to pull out the tubes to test. Those 45 output tubes, well, one is bad and the other isn't even a 45! Somebody stuck a 26 in there. Not too surprising . . . As for the other tubes, so far they all test good. However I noticed by looking at the schematics, both of the original AK and the Rider's, they don't even mention the tube types that belong there! On the radio itself it shows "UX-245 or CX-345", which I take to mean that 45's belong in those sockets -- especially since the rectifier shows "UX-280 or CX-380" and there's an 80 in the socket. However the three RF amps are 26A's, and I can only assume they're correct as there is nothing to confirm or deny it. Then, wouldn't you know, on two of these the grid caps popped off as I tried to remove the wires. So my next question: What to do with the 26A's. I'm sure I can carefully resolder the little wire to the cap, and possibly use some epoxy filler to mount it back on. But is the epoxy heat resistant? What do the rest of you guys do to fix these? Then to decide -- do I spend my money on two 45's or a tank of gas? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 323043 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions References: Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:30:30 GMT Gary Tayman wrote: > Then to decide -- do I spend my money on two 45's or a tank of gas? Wait until it goes up to $6.00/gallon. Then a pair of 45s will not seem so expensive. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323044 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: ST-70 Update References: <1127502671.484682.166780@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1127509827.516463.209930@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <4b%Ye.377$Xl2.147@twister.nyroc.rr.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 18:34:09 GMT Points well taken John, I see there would be room for improvement on this design and probably increase the power output. John Stone wrote: > On 9/24/05 7:46 AM, in article SUbZe.492$Xl2.178@twister.nyroc.rr.com, "Lou > deGonzague" wrote: > > >>I'm surprised that you would say that about the HF-20. The output >>transformers look to be of real quality and I've read nothing but good >>reviews on it. I suppose the tone control circuits could be bypassed to >>have the least coloration of the signal if you already have a preamp. > > > Well, maybe I'm being a little unfair to the Eico. It is an older design > after all. My first amplifier was an Eico HF12 that I used in a mono system > and then bought a second one for stereo. My problem with the Eico stuff was > that they used cathode bias in the output circuit as opposed to a bias > supply, and didn't provide filtered DC to the preamp heaters. The bias > configuration limited the power and caused bias instability when the amp was > run hard. Instead of a filtered DC heater supply, they opted to superimpose > the DC from the output cathodes on the preamp heaters. It worked, sort of, > but you needed a hum balance pot and it never really got rid of all the hum- > especially in the phono stage. In these respects, the Dynaco amps and > preamps were better designs where performance was concerned. > The other blunder was that they tended to use ceramic discs for coupling in > audio stages. A very poor application for this kind of capacitor. On the > plus side, they ran the tubes pretty conservatively, so they lasted a long > time. And you are right that the HF 20 does seem to have pretty decent > transformers. > Article: 323045 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions Message-ID: <1127588466.9d10afb4e7d33f473cdf0a90b573796e@teranews> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 14:01:01 -0500 "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:X_fZe.2637$zQ3.447@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... > However the three RF amps are 26A's, and I can > only assume they're correct as there is nothing to confirm or deny it. ITYM 24A, not 26A. 26s don't have grid caps. I think you'll find the C-324 label under the shields. > Then, wouldn't you know, on two of these the grid caps popped off as I tried > to remove the wires. Just be glad the grid cap connectors themselves aren't broken. They're frail. > So my next question: What to do with the 24A's. Fix and use them, or get replacements. They don't cost much. > Then to decide -- do I spend my money on two 45's or a tank of gas? If you have 2A5s and a couple of 6-pin sockets and 4-pin bases you can make an adapter to triode-connect the 2A5s and use them. Good luck paul Article: 323046 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <1127588466.9d10afb4e7d33f473cdf0a90b573796e@teranews> Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions Message-ID: <1127588963.eb80c03218d68b1dcd1baec27894c73a@teranews> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 14:09:16 -0500 "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message news:1127588466.9d10afb4e7d33f473cdf0a90b573796e@teranews... > If you have 2A5s and a couple of 6-pin sockets and 4-pin bases you can make > an adapter to triode-connect the 2A5s and use them. Anticipating the question that's sure to be asked, here's the instructions (quoting Bonita Geniac-Smith's post from 5 years ago) "A 2A5 is the easiest inexpensive 2.5 volt filament sub, with the screen and plate tied together as a triode. The one I use the most is the 41 or 6K6 connected as triode. This requires the use of a small 6 volt @ 1amp filament transformer or a silicon doubler off the 2.5 volt supply for the 45. This doubler approach won't quite give the 6.3 volts called for but it seems to work fine with the heater voltage a little bit low. Whichever tube you decide to use, and the 6F6, 6V6, 42, 7B5, 7C5 etc. will all work also, you have to make an adaptor or replace the socket. Since there is such a variety of biasing circuits in different radios, to be safe and sure, do not connect the grid or cathode of the new tube directly to the connections of the 45 socket. Use a cathode resistor from the new tube to ground or B- sufficient to give about +20 volts at the cathode, about 470 to 1K @ 2 watts is usually in the ballpark, and bypass that with a small electrolytic. Then you should also place a capacitor in series with the grid connection to isolate it from the old bias circuitry, a .05 to .1 @ 600 volts is fine here. Add another resistor from grid to ground or B- of about 330K or 470K. That's all you have to do and it works great. The original output transformer is a close enough match to work fine, and the 41 or 6K6 actually draws less plate current than the 45 did. " Article: 323047 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions References: Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 19:20:48 GMT You must have meant 24A for the RF tubes. Yes you can use epoxy on the cap. As far as the 45's go if you look around long enough you can find some for around $20 ea. If the cabinet is in good shape then it might be worth the money to get it working. The 24A tubes are as common as dirt so it's no big deal if they are bad. Gary Tayman wrote: > Once again I've had a little free time this afternoon, so I decided to take > another quick look at this AK-60. First thing, to satisfy my curiosity, I > decided to pull out the tubes to test. Those 45 output tubes, well, one is > bad and the other isn't even a 45! Somebody stuck a 26 in there. Not too > surprising . . . > > As for the other tubes, so far they all test good. However I noticed by > looking at the schematics, both of the original AK and the Rider's, they > don't even mention the tube types that belong there! On the radio itself it > shows "UX-245 or CX-345", which I take to mean that 45's belong in those > sockets -- especially since the rectifier shows "UX-280 or CX-380" and > there's an 80 in the socket. However the three RF amps are 26A's, and I can > only assume they're correct as there is nothing to confirm or deny it. > Then, wouldn't you know, on two of these the grid caps popped off as I tried > to remove the wires. > > So my next question: What to do with the 26A's. I'm sure I can carefully > resolder the little wire to the cap, and possibly use some epoxy filler to > mount it back on. But is the epoxy heat resistant? What do the rest of you > guys do to fix these? > > Then to decide -- do I spend my money on two 45's or a tank of gas? > > > Article: 323048 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" Subject: FA: HP 432 RF power meter Message-ID: <1127595696.26394af8e834cf36b953e212c350d598@teranews> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 14:01:31 -0700 picked up two of these, one is on e-bay here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7549187829 I will end up selling both - if you are interested, feel free to contact me off the list. use this email (remove spaces, etc) william_ b_ noble at MSN daught com -- Bill Article: 323049 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: <1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: fix Dual 1019 Message-ID: <1127595807.73a2c62740f11224bedb37fce3db92db@teranews> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 14:03:12 -0700 usual problem with these is hardening of the grease - if youi are good mechanically, just disasssemble, clean, and reassemble. If you are not good mechanically, don't mess with it. I've done a bunch of these - they are great turntables, one of the best of the changers, if not "THE" best, IMHO bill "Covah" wrote in message news:1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... > Friends, > My Dual 1019 works perfectly except it turns itself off. When lever is > at "start" turntable revolves, tonearm moves, drops, and machine turns > off. Set lever at "manual" and machine runs until I let go and lever > springs back to "stop" position and machine turns off. If I move > tonearm to center it starts up again and whips tonearm back to cradle, > then turns off. > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > Article: 323050 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes From: Larry References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> <8vcZe.81697$DW1.44479@fed1read06> <90a36$43355573$4232bd68$10077@COQUI.NET> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 17:16:05 -0400 Bill wrote in news:90a36$43355573$4232bd68$10077@COQUI.NET: > BTW, I tested a 1A fast blow fuse across the B battery. Didn't blow > instantly but it blew in "faster than a fraction" of a second. > > We'll mark that as a 'GOOD' B battery....(c; -- Larry Article: 323051 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: fix Dual 1019 Date: 24 Sep 2005 16:51:02 -0500 Message-ID: <4335c9f5$0$219$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1127595807.73a2c62740f11224bedb37fce3db92db@teranews> william_b_noble wrote: > usual problem with these is hardening of the grease - if youi are good > mechanically, just disasssemble, clean, and reassemble. If you are not good > mechanically, don't mess with it. I've done a bunch of these - they are > great turntables, one of the best of the changers, if not "THE" best, IMHO > Agreed completely. This may just be the best little turntable ever made (little because it's got an 11.5" platter that actually overhangs the deckplate a bit). Not all-the-way into the audiophile realm, but really close. Now, not all of them are wonderful. Many have warped platters. And a few had slightly-cheapened motors. There was also a batch with cruel and unusual signal ground paths (same with Miracords). The traditional motor for these is excellent (and was used in other models, such as the 1009 and 1219). I'd like to find the ultimate lubricant for the platter shaft/thrust ball race. Someone here once recommended STP for the ball bearings, and for my machines, it was way wrong. I did one or two modifications -- very difficult -- to correct the aggressive VTA at the head -- it's sounding very good with advanced parabolic styli right now. I think that the 1019 is actually a slightly better machine than the similar 1219, which has a better tonearm. I'd also have to say that the Dual 1019 has an edge over the Miracord 50H only because the Dual's arm is more stable and I think that the Dual is a bit quieter in very low frequency noise. The Miracord is, strictly as a machine, a beautiful job -- the slow cycling lends itself to better life of the parts and the thing doesn't go bonkers when cycling at 78. And the 50His the most attractive changer I've ever seen. The bottom line for me is that: a. I use the Dual 1019 as my bedroom turntable. b. My Miracord 50H, with a few spare headshells and other parts, will be for sale. It's a really tough call: I love both machines. And, frankly, ELAC fabricated the best platters I've ever seen. I have yet to see one that's not totally flat -- and that's quite an achievement. What do you think, William? Bubba Article: 323052 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 19:09:53 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions References: <1127588466.9d10afb4e7d33f473cdf0a90b573796e@teranews> <1127588963.eb80c03218d68b1dcd1baec27894c73a@teranews> <8bCdncnQA4YsSqjenZ2dnUVZ_sidnZ2d@qx.net> Message-ID: <246af$4335dcc5$4232bd23$4772@COQUI.NET> Theresa McCarty wrote: > Thank you! Some of this thinking may well apply to replacing an EFM11 > magische auge in my Mende 216W. There are two EFM11 on ebay France at the moment. One sells to Europe only. I think you'll find buying a replacement to be the best way to go! -Bill Article: 323053 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 19:18:59 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Value of an Emerson 421? References: <1127603519.568356.107590@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <946d7$4335dee5$4232bd23$5058@COQUI.NET> Lane wrote: > Found one today - wondering what its value may be... > > Thanks > My older edition of the Bunis Guide (4th) says $25-35. -Bill Article: 323054 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: OT: canadian post Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 17:38:40 -0600 Message-ID: im having something shipped down from canada via canada post, and im just wondering how this works. do they just transfer it to the USPS when it hits the states or something? ive never seen any canadian post trucks driving around... thx randy Article: 323055 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Value of an Emerson 421? Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 17:39:24 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1127603519.568356.107590@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> search completed items on ebay. randy "Lane" wrote in message news:1127603519.568356.107590@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Found one today - wondering what its value may be... > > Thanks > Article: 323056 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions From: "Radio Active" Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 20:00:47 -0400 Message-ID: <1127606612_15561@spool6-east.superfeed.net> References: Gary: Send me your address and I'll send you a pair of used 45s for the cost of shipping. verne folk radioactive@zoominternet.net ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- Article: 323057 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: canadian post From: "Haggis" telus.net> References: Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:51:32 GMT On 24-Sep-2005, "xrongor" wrote: > do they just transfer it to the USPS when it hits the states or > something? ive never seen any canadian post trucks driving around... Short answer - yes. I think they're in cahoots :-) Haggis. Article: 323058 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT: canadian post From: "Haggis" telus.net> References: Message-ID: <4ymZe.269574$HI.2306@edtnps84> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:53:20 GMT p.s. - of course the US customs gets to check it first (same thing in reverse when USPS mails stuff to us in the "Frozen North" :-)). From adouglasatgis.net Wed Sep 28 23:55:07 EDT 2005 Article: 323059 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: ST-70 Update Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 20:39:54 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 20 Message-ID: References: <1127502671.484682.166780@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-690.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!newsfeed.stanford.edu!pln-w!spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news4 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:323059 Hi, No, I haven't measured it at all. As noted, it's the bass channel which doesn't work very hard. I'm sure I rebiased the tubes to a lower plate current too, but it's been a long time and I don't recall what it was. The isolation transformer is unnecessary but I already had it, and was a convenient way to get 115V. 300V on a 450V capacitor doesn't sound bad to me. The point is that the voltage will never go above the rated voltage for either capacitor, because then the leakage would increase and prevent it from going higher. It really doesn't matter if one has 50V and the other 450V. Now I would not do this with two 300V caps, but 450 is plenty of margin. Incidentally resistors have voltage ratings too, so it's not quite a "no-brainer" to specify them for 250V service. Alan Article: 323060 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: LARRY929@webtv.net Subject: OT POST Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 19:54:03 -0500 Message-ID: <22174-4335F52B-382@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> I have an old Zenith tube radio , runs on 6 volt car battery.The ony# ican find on it is R932532 if any one has any info on it please e-mail me thanks in advance Article: 323061 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Keith Park" Subject: Restored Antique Radios & TV's FS Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 01:09:55 GMT Restored Antique Radios & TV's FS http://members.aol.com/radiorest/main.htm FREE DELIVERY possible in the I 81/ I95 corridor as I have a trip from Albany to Richmond in 2 weeks. 2 great consoles still available and I could bring them along. My Restorations are just what you're looking for if you want a set that looks and works as new. These are completely redone, not only part of the cabinet is refinished and another part left cobbled up, the entire unit is restored. My restorations are not simple "Recappings with a new power cord" I tend to every part of the chassis that needs attention. My sets are not "over restored" eather, I don't rip every component and wire from the chassis and replace it just because its old, these sets are preserved in as much of their original state as possible to keep them reliable and safe. 26 years of doing antique radio restoration goes into knowing just what needs to be done and just how it should be done when I restore one Just click the link above and choose the Radio's for sale icon. Thanks!! Keith Park Article: 323062 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT POST From: Larry References: <22174-4335F52B-382@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 23:29:52 -0400 LARRY929@webtv.net wrote in news:22174-4335F52B-382@storefull- 3176.bay.webtv.net: > I have an old Zenith tube radio , runs on 6 volt car battery.The ony# > ican find on it is R932532 if any one has any info on it please e-mail > me thanks in advance > Farm radio. When reception dropped from weak filament battery, just swap with the one in the truck or car and charge it up on the way to the feed store.... Ford had 6V cars long after the rest were 12V. Was this why?....(c; -- Larry Article: 323063 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: fix Dual 1019 Date: 24 Sep 2005 23:15:02 -0500 Message-ID: <433623cb$0$216$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <4335044e$0$188$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1127608728.493654.75580@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Covah wrote: > Thank you for advice. Is the "cam" you are referring to the large > rotating plastic disc into which various levers fit? Yes. Every record changer I've ever seen has a cam gear. I recommend that you study it carefully -- note the point at which the follower pin can take either of two tracks (troughs, actually). There should be a little steel toggle plate that guides the pin into one track or the other. I recall that that plate is kicked by a lever that's connected to the control assembly. _Do get the manual._ It's affordable. Then what to lub > it with? I'll just hose it with WD-40. NOT! > I recommend that you hunt around for that alternate lube list/chart -- I forgot where I saw it. What you want for the cam gear is a grease that's made for metal against plastic. I use a Dow silicon-based grease myself, something that doubt is still made under that name("BR-33 grease, light consistency"). Mobil 1 grease may be fine, although it's a bit stiff. Whatever you use, clean whatever's there already off completely because some lubes aren't compatible with others. It's possible that somebody worked on the machine before you got it and botched things up. With the platter removed, it is safe for you to rotate the cam gear by hand _in its normal direction of rotation_. ** Always !!! Before you refit the platter, ensure that you've first pushed the little trip pawl so that it doesn't stick out toward the platter shaft. If it's sticking out and you drop that heavy platter onto it, you will probably break some things permanently. The trip pawl is nudged into trip position by the pressed aluminum rod, which is itself pushed by the tonearm. The pawl is then kicked on the next revolution by a protrusion molded into the center of the platter. That kick is just enough to get the gear teeth into contact with the mating gear teeth molded in the platter, and away-we-go cycling on our merry way. Unfortunately, at 78, the cycling is a bit violent -- the arm thrashes and if things aren't just so, it'll miss the proper setdown position. And this is one thing that ELAC (Miracord) got right and Dual didn't. Bubau Article: 323064 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 23:48:53 -0500 Message-ID: <43362ab1$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:EvCdnaJNgZ5zgaveRVn-vQ@comcast.com... > In the good old SERVICE magazines, and others, there were articles about > bypassing the loc-dist sw (in distant pos) and use that spot for a tone > control. Many servicers did that. Worth it if you are keeping the set, > maybe. Boy, that would suck if you lived near an antenna tower. At my location on an AK 60 set on dx, three local stations would overdrive the front end so hard they would distort. I had to switch back to local to make them listenable - this with 6' of wire hanging off the short-antenna post. They're not radios I enjoy listening to very much. I wouldn't bother to buy one for myself unless it was in a Kiel table and priced under market value. You never realize how important AVC is until you don't have it...... jmo paul Article: 323065 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 01:33:26 GMT Mark, I'll be out tomorrow as well -- DJ for a car cruise at Quaker Steak in Pinellas Park. No, I haven't checked any resistors or "condensers" as of yet. I'd hate to see any resistors be bad, as I like those dogbones -- but I'll have to do what I have to do. As for the caps, they're HUGE! Again, I'll do what I have to. As for the tubes, I finally figured out the code -- and this may sound stupid, except for the fact that this is by far my oldest project radio. The UX-245 and CX-345 are the original tube types, which would have been globes. The 45's are "modern" replacements. I was told this was an original 1929 model, and by looking through the literature there are at least three variations. The early type has a single volume control, while the late type and the third version have a dual ganged control. The early and late have the TRF tuning caps ganged together with belts, while the third version has all the variable caps on a single shaft. I've definitely got the belts, and it appears the volume control is a single wirewound control (and is also HUGE!) Now -- regarding that "quality condenser", just what is it -- some sort of fixed tone control? I suppose theoretically you could actually make a tone control by putting a pot in series with the cap. I'm not quite sure I want to remove this -- if it's in it sounds tubby, and if it's removed the sound is clearer. I might try it either way to see what difference it makes, but I'm leaning toward keeping it there. If I want good sound I'll turn on the "conversion" Buick radio on my other bench; if I turn on the A-K I'd rather it sound authentic -- then again a friend of mine has two AK-55's; one in a table and one a metal table model. He hates the sound of both. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:Vf-dnYYLbKMFfqjeRVn-tg@comcast.com... > Gary, > used 45's are not that expensive. I have some here at $18 ea, but if you > really want to save, just use weak ones, only $10ea, as I have found the > AK60 has gain to spare by a mile... and , using slightly weak ones wont > matter a hoot. I recommend cutting out the > "quality" cap in the audio xfmer. Call me and I'll explain. > 734-455-4169 11am-9pm usually... I am out sunday til probably 6pm. > > Mark Oppat > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:X_fZe.2637$zQ3.447@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> Once again I've had a little free time this afternoon, so I decided to > take >> another quick look at this AK-60. First thing, to satisfy my curiosity, >> I >> decided to pull out the tubes to test. Those 45 output tubes, well, one > is >> bad and the other isn't even a 45! Somebody stuck a 26 in there. Not >> too >> surprising . . . >> >> As for the other tubes, so far they all test good. However I noticed by >> looking at the schematics, both of the original AK and the Rider's, they >> don't even mention the tube types that belong there! On the radio itself > it >> shows "UX-245 or CX-345", which I take to mean that 45's belong in those >> sockets -- especially since the rectifier shows "UX-280 or CX-380" and >> there's an 80 in the socket. However the three RF amps are 26A's, and I > can >> only assume they're correct as there is nothing to confirm or deny it. >> Then, wouldn't you know, on two of these the grid caps popped off as I > tried >> to remove the wires. >> >> So my next question: What to do with the 26A's. I'm sure I can >> carefully >> resolder the little wire to the cap, and possibly use some epoxy filler >> to >> mount it back on. But is the epoxy heat resistant? What do the rest of > you >> guys do to fix these? >> >> Then to decide -- do I spend my money on two 45's or a tank of gas? >> >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> > > > Article: 323066 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: <1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <4335044e$0$188$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1127608728.493654.75580@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: fix Dual 1019 Message-ID: <1127630152.e4e817073129b359e5e1b8150793d058@teranews> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 23:35:51 -0700 good grease for TT cams is lubriplate - I've also had goodluck with white lithium grease. I like clock oil for bearings. bill "Covah" wrote in message news:1127608728.493654.75580@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Thank you for advice. Is the "cam" you are referring to the large > rotating plastic disc into which various levers fit? Then what to lub > it with? I'll just hose it with WD-40. NOT! > Article: 323067 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Zenith 1950's era record/tube radio repair. Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 01:24:25 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1127494738.664548.176330@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127503146.742721.66560@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127629417.397538.231110@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> if you turn the thing on with power, and hit the appropriate control, it is supposed to start the platter turning and drop the needle in the appropriate spot. you can test if this mechanism is working properly by NOT turning the power on, turning the platter by hand in the proper direction, and trying to initiate the same procedure that would deposit the arm on the turntable as you would if the power is on. you should be able to conduct a similiar test to see that the arm returns properly and the unit shuts off when you spin the platter by hand and hit the appropriate 'stop playing' control. if it does, the mechanism is working. if it doesnt, that rubber pully could be the problem. the arm mechanism (normally/probably) uses a rubber pully dragging on the turntable to cause its motion. randy "IsaacW" wrote in message news:1127629417.397538.231110@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >I dont have access to a lathe. I will examine as you suggest. Ill see > if the motor turns or not. I really haven't popped the top on this > since im inexperinced with such devices. what does "arm cycle properly" > mean? does it mean the arm movement is directly connected to the > spinning of the record? > > -isaac > Article: 323068 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: fix Dual 1019 Date: 25 Sep 2005 02:25:02 -0500 Message-ID: <43365061$0$240$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1127595807.73a2c62740f11224bedb37fce3db92db@teranews> <4335c9f5$0$219$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Jeffrey D Angus wrote: > > > CalBubba wrote: > >> I'd like to find the ultimate lubricant for the platter shaft/thrust >> ball race. Someone here once recommended STP for the ball bearings, >> and for my machines, it was way wrong. > > > I've been using Bosch (purple) demolition hammer grease. > I had a fairly large tube of it left over from my construction > tool repair days. > You've been using this Bosch grease for Dual platter sleeve bearings and the ball bearing thrust assembly? > The problem with STP is it is called "honey oil" for a reason. > Way to sticky. > Man, you said it! The entire bearing housing was scraping and screeching as it rotated along with the platter. Bubba Article: 323069 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: I just left negative feedback Date: 25 Sep 2005 02:34:01 -0500 Message-ID: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Yup. I entered a negative. The story goes like this: I bought a Wigo MP3 player from a fellow on eBay. Before the sale, I asked him if it was official US merchandise with a US warranty. He answered "yes." So, I bought it. In general, the thing works nicely, although MP3 downloads are a bit too quiet for normal use. The 10 switches operate a dizzying number of menu selections, probably over a hundred settings very confusing and very illogical. Line level audio recorded into the device plays fine, and that's mostly what I'm using it for. I attempted to contact the Korean manufacturer at the email address on Wigo's web site. No answer. Then I tried to find the US importer. I could find no presence in the USA. The issue is that, yes, the product carries a nice 1-year warranty, but if I need service under the warranty, I can't find anyone to honor it! So, I sent an email to the seller asking him how I can contact the importer. I mean, he should know who he bought them from -- he's sold a few of these things. No answer. Then I emailed him again. No answer. Finally, I told him that if I didn't hear from him by last Monday, I'd enter a negative. No answer. So, he got what he deserved. How 'bout that? Bubba Article: 323070 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: Outstanding Antiques and Collectibles Crap ! Date: 25 Sep 2005 02:39:01 -0500 Message-ID: <4336536e$0$178$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <1127632329.609549.309440@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> chin_ho7@yahoo.com wrote: > Antique and Collectible finds !! Post pics of Arrowheads, Ashtrays, > Bottles, Breweriana, Beer Cans,Coffee Cans, Tobacco Tins,Oil Cans, > Cards, Coins and Tokens, Coca Cola, Furniture, Fruit Jars, > Glassware, Gold Nuggets, Jewelry, Pepsi Cola, Soda Milk Bottles, > Marbles, Matchbooks, Movie Posters,Photos, Postcards, Advertising > Signs,Seltzer,Stamps, Toys..Buy,,Sell,,Trade,,Exchange.....!! > Ask room questions about your items Age,,Identity,,Appraisals! A > Great way to showcase your items prior to eBAY SALES !! > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Northwest_Treasures/ > > Own A Group or Website ?,,Blog ?? Start Making Money Today for > FREE!! Easy cut and paiste colorfull banners!! Safe and Secure,, > Join and see immediate income results! Earn commission for life!Its > FREE !!! Antiques and collectibles sites available !! > http://www.clixGalore.com/PSale.aspx?BID=5146&AfID=97467&AdID=26 > > > Home of the latest in Coca-ColaŽ licensed products. With 30 > categories and well over 1000 products , we are proud to be a > premier supplier of Coca-ColaŽ licensed gifts, collectibles and home > decor. Many unique items can be found only here at > ColaStuffUSA.com. . > http://www.clixGalore.com/PSale.aspx?BID=9891&AfID=97467&AdID=1305 > Ooooh! I really want Coca-Cola licensed products. I'm dying for a Coca-Cola licensed product. I'm foaming at the mouth. On the other hand, How much will you give me for three Ford Aerostar hubcaps? They're first quality and have outlasted the crappy vehicle. They're yours for the highest offer. If I feel like it. Bubba-buh-bubba Article: 323071 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1127606612_15561@spool6-east.superfeed.net> <-vmdnYX8yOOnjaveRVn-tg@comcast.com> Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions Message-ID: <5wwZe.3393$oc.1830@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 12:13:53 GMT Yes, greatly appreciated indeed! As nice as it is to locate a couple of 45's, it's only a drop in the bucket compared to the wealth of information at EVERYBODY's fingertips as they simple sign onto this newsgroup -- if there are questions, just ask. With just the small amount of tinkering I've done with this radio, I've learned quite a bit -- and I've barely begun on this radio! Of course I'm now making a living with these, but of course the mainstream is car radios >from the 50's-60's. Tinkering with technology from the 20's and 30's can often throw me for a loop, even though they're typically much simpler. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Tom Adkins" wrote in message news:-vmdnYX8yOOnjaveRVn-tg@comcast.com... > Radio Active wrote: >> Gary: Send me your address and I'll send you a pair of used 45s for the >> cost >> of shipping. verne folk radioactive@zoominternet.net >> >> >> >> ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet >> News==---- >> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ >> Newsgroups >> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption >> =---- > > What a heck of a nice gesture. Gary, remember what you've always heard > about good deeds coming back to you? Article: 323072 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Sparky" References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Subject: Re: I just left negative feedback Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 12:34:46 GMT He misrepresented the product. He got what he deserved. "CalBubba" wrote in message news:43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com... > Yup. I entered a negative. > > The story goes like this: > I bought a Wigo MP3 player from a fellow on eBay. Before the sale, I > asked him if it was official US merchandise with a US warranty. He > answered "yes." So, I bought it. > > In general, the thing works nicely, although MP3 downloads are a bit too > quiet for normal use. The 10 switches operate a dizzying number of menu > selections, probably over a hundred settings very confusing and very > illogical. Line level audio recorded into the device plays fine, and > that's mostly what I'm using it for. > > I attempted to contact the Korean manufacturer at the email address on > Wigo's web site. No answer. Then I tried to find the US importer. I > could find no presence in the USA. The issue is that, yes, the product > carries a nice 1-year warranty, but if I need service under the > warranty, I can't find anyone to honor it! > > So, I sent an email to the seller asking him how I can contact the > importer. I mean, he should know who he bought them from -- he's sold a > few of these things. > > No answer. > > Then I emailed him again. > > No answer. > > Finally, I told him that if I didn't hear from him by last Monday, I'd > enter a negative. > > No answer. > > So, he got what he deserved. > > How 'bout that? > > Bubba Article: 323073 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 12:38:16 GMT Mark, I got the tuning condenser information from Riders -- Volume III Page 3-28. "Both the 1st and 2nd types have four separate variable condensers controlled by pulleys and belts." On the third type, "The variable condensers are of the 'multiple' type, with the four rotors mounted on a common shaft." The chassis layout on page 3-33 shows the tuning condensers arranged in a peculiar way; I'd sure like to see one of these flipped over to see what it really looks like. I would suppose there are a lot of first types, some second types, with the third type being the rare one. These were introduced in 1929, when the economy was booming. We all know what happened in October of that same year. By the time the third version was introduced, around 1933, I doubt if there were many people willing to fork over the $120, plus tubes, for a radio, at a time when there were better ones on sale for less. Even Atwater-Kent boasted that they were immune to the depression because they did not depend on stock, but they indeed went belly-up in 1936. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:EvCdnaJNgZ5zgaveRVn-vQ@comcast.com... > Gary, > at the time this set hit the market (1929 model year) electrodynamic > speakers were brand new. This AK60 and the 55C were the first for AK for > ED > spkrs, Majestic had the model 70 and 90, and they both sold a TON of > these. RCA had sets out with them , as did others later, but seems the AK > and Majestics I see everywhere, and have worked on many over my 30 years > in > this. > > Now, MR AK himself did some market tests with folks at the time, and he > determined the "duller" sound (less treble) was preferred. I can only > imagine this was because 1. that is what they were used to, and 2. > record > and broadcast quality was still fairly noisy, and most of the noise was in > the upper range. > > So, he had these "quality" condensors added, meaning "tone quality" not > that they were of any great construction. As it turns out, they are as > crappy as any other cap, and can be leaky enough to cause more distortion > than the set already has (plenty). I always cut them out. To do that, > you > restore the set to playing condition, then pop the top on the audio can, > and > expose many wires coming out of the tar. You play the set, and cut a > wire. > If the volume drops, you solder that one back and cut another. If the > volume goes up a little and the high end perks up, you did it right. > Wish > I knew what the right color was, but the wires are so tarred up you often > cant tell anyways. > > In the good old SERVICE magazines, and others, there were articles about > bypassing the loc-dist sw (in distant pos) and use that spot for a tone > control. Many servicers did that. Worth it if you are keeping the set, > maybe. > > BTW, ALL of the AK55's and 60's had the tuning caps ganged with a brass > belt, the different versions had to do with the RF coils, bias resistors > and > the vol. controls only. > > Mark Oppat > > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:G7nZe.2740$zQ3.2643@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> Mark, >> >> I'll be out tomorrow as well -- DJ for a car cruise at Quaker Steak in >> Pinellas Park. >> >> No, I haven't checked any resistors or "condensers" as of yet. I'd hate > to >> see any resistors be bad, as I like those dogbones -- but I'll have to do >> what I have to do. As for the caps, they're HUGE! Again, I'll do what I >> have to. >> >> As for the tubes, I finally figured out the code -- and this may sound >> stupid, except for the fact that this is by far my oldest project radio. >> The UX-245 and CX-345 are the original tube types, which would have been >> globes. The 45's are "modern" replacements. I was told this was an >> original 1929 model, and by looking through the literature there are at >> least three variations. The early type has a single volume control, >> while >> the late type and the third version have a dual ganged control. The >> early >> and late have the TRF tuning caps ganged together with belts, while the >> third version has all the variable caps on a single shaft. I've > definitely >> got the belts, and it appears the volume control is a single wirewound >> control (and is also HUGE!) >> >> Now -- regarding that "quality condenser", just what is it -- some sort >> of >> fixed tone control? I suppose theoretically you could actually make a > tone >> control by putting a pot in series with the cap. I'm not quite sure I > want >> to remove this -- if it's in it sounds tubby, and if it's removed the > sound >> is clearer. I might try it either way to see what difference it makes, > but >> I'm leaning toward keeping it there. If I want good sound I'll turn on > the >> "conversion" Buick radio on my other bench; if I turn on the A-K I'd > rather >> it sound authentic -- then again a friend of mine has two AK-55's; one in > a >> table and one a metal table model. He hates the sound of both. >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> >> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message >> news:Vf-dnYYLbKMFfqjeRVn-tg@comcast.com... >> > Gary, >> > used 45's are not that expensive. I have some here at $18 ea, but if > you >> > really want to save, just use weak ones, only $10ea, as I have found > the >> > AK60 has gain to spare by a mile... and , using slightly weak ones wont >> > matter a hoot. I recommend cutting out the >> > "quality" cap in the audio xfmer. Call me and I'll explain. >> > 734-455-4169 11am-9pm usually... I am out sunday til probably 6pm. >> > >> > Mark Oppat >> > >> > >> > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message >> > news:X_fZe.2637$zQ3.447@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> >> Once again I've had a little free time this afternoon, so I decided to >> > take >> >> another quick look at this AK-60. First thing, to satisfy my > curiosity, >> >> I >> >> decided to pull out the tubes to test. Those 45 output tubes, well, > one >> > is >> >> bad and the other isn't even a 45! Somebody stuck a 26 in there. Not >> >> too >> >> surprising . . . >> >> >> >> As for the other tubes, so far they all test good. However I noticed > by >> >> looking at the schematics, both of the original AK and the Rider's, > they >> >> don't even mention the tube types that belong there! On the radio > itself >> > it >> >> shows "UX-245 or CX-345", which I take to mean that 45's belong in > those >> >> sockets -- especially since the rectifier shows "UX-280 or CX-380" and >> >> there's an 80 in the socket. However the three RF amps are 26A's, and > I >> > can >> >> only assume they're correct as there is nothing to confirm or deny it. >> >> Then, wouldn't you know, on two of these the grid caps popped off as I >> > tried >> >> to remove the wires. >> >> >> >> So my next question: What to do with the 26A's. I'm sure I can >> >> carefully >> >> resolder the little wire to the cap, and possibly use some epoxy >> >> filler >> >> to >> >> mount it back on. But is the epoxy heat resistant? What do the rest > of >> > you >> >> guys do to fix these? >> >> >> >> Then to decide -- do I spend my money on two 45's or a tank of gas? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> > > > Article: 323074 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <4336B0EF.F116A056@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 10:15:12 -0400 Been there, done that... the tubes only flash once... :-) Regards, Sal Brisindi Bill wrote: > I haven't managed to do it yet... but this evening I caught myself in > the process of inadvertently connecting a 90v B battery to my 1.5v > filaments on the terminal strip in back of the radio. > > It got me wondering. Whats a good way to prevent burning out the tube > filaments if a guy were to make this mistake? I'm thinking a zener to > ground, or better still three cheap 1N4007s and a fast blow fuse inline, > suitable to the filament draw. > > What I don't have is a feel for if this would this react quick enough to > save the tubes? I don't want to run any 'destructive testing' to find > out and maybe someone has dealt with this before? > > I guess the obvious would be to use some sort of connectors or different > binding posts to PREVENT the postential error but Murphy often finds a > way around that. > > Ideas? > > TIA, > Bill Article: 323075 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Alt Beer" References: <1127282822.097431.32060@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <57e88449c7fe696c0f9973e8d8416c81@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Subject: Re: Boonton 160-a Q-meter (brag + question) Message-ID: <9lyZe.4916$NO2.957@newsfe4-win.ntli.net> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:18:45 GMT "Pete_O" wrote in message news:57e88449c7fe696c0f9973e8d8416c81@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com... > At one point I solid-stated the Q-tube while in production engineering; it > was no more than a FET, 3 or 4 resistors, and 2 caps. It never went into > use because we were supposed to cease product support for these products > in lieu of selling newer models. I will try to find my documentation on > the FET design- it was very simple- a 2 resistor B+ divider (to 20v?)with > cap. spike protection, and one or two series resistors in the FET > "cathode". The FET(2N5245)was wired exactly as a triode and performed far > better than the tube. Pete O. AI2V Did you manage to find your documentation Pete ? John Article: 323076 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Joe Hungate \(K8OM\)" Subject: Help I.D.'ing Console Radio, Please Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 13:54:41 GMT I've been scaning old family photo negatives from the 1940's and 1950's and found this picture of my sister sitting beside a console radio we had back then. I believe this picture was probably taken around 1949. I can remember this radio when I was a little tike in the early 1950's but I don't know what ever became of it. I would really like to find one, restore it and put it in my antique radio collection (I have 20 consols now so one more won't matter). Can anyone please help me identify this console???? It appears to have 6 bands (A-F), push buttons, slide rule dial and a tuning eye. I really appreciate any help in identifying this console. Please email me at your convenience at: radiojoe@mchsi.com Thanks!!!!! begin 666 Unknown Radio Console.jpg M_]C_X `02D9)1@`!`@$&0 9 ``#_X19$17AI9@``34T`*@````@`!P$2``,` M```!``$```$:``4````!````8@$;``4````!````:@$H``,````!``(```$Q M``(````=````<@$R``(````4````CX=I``0````!````I ```- ```9 ```` M`0``!D ````!061O8F4@4&AO=&]S:&]P($5L96UE;G1S(#(N, `R,# U.C Y M.C(U(# X.C,V.C4Y`````Z !``,````!__\``* "``0````!```)4J #``0` M```!```)*P`````````&`0,``P````$`!@```1H`!0````$```$>`1L`!0`` M``$```$F`2@``P````$``@```@$`! ````$```$N`@(`! ````$``!4.```` M`````$@````!````2 ````'_V/_@`!!*1DE&``$"`0!(`$@``/_M``Q!9&]B M95]#30`#_^X`#D%D;V)E`&2 `````?_;`(0`# @(" D(# D)#!$+"@L1%0\, M# \5&!,3%1,3&!$,# P,# P1# P,# P,# P,# P,# P,# P,# P,# P,# P, M# $-"PL-#@T0#@X0% X.#A04#@X.#A01# P,# P1$0P,# P,#!$,# P,# P, M# P,# P,# P,# P,# P,# P,# P,_\ `$0@`?@" `P$B``(1`0,1`?_=``0` M"/_$`3\```$%`0$!`0$!``````````,``0($!08'" D*"P$``04!`0$!`0$` M`````````0`"`P0%!@<("0H+$ `!! $#`@0"!0<&" 4###,!``(1`P0A$C$% M05%A$R)Q@3(&%)&AL4(C)!52P6(S-'*"T4,')9)3\.'Q8W,U%J*R@R9$DU1D M1<*C=#87TE7B9?*SA,/3=>/S1B>4I(6TE<34Y/2EM<75Y?569G:&EJ:VQM;F M]C='5V=WAY>GM\?7Y_<1``("`0($! ,$!08'!P8%-0$``A$#(3$2!$%187$B M$P4R@9$4H;%"(\%2T? 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M84^U2#=-$Q:>R<,\5,5D\)VB!YH@88E2T/D2I"0B-8UW>-=%.QC"R1R.90"2 M-#]ZFU@.I3[1(2[D)B]\R G]=W=%;R<.:_0I-QF.Y4S16![ M2AOJZ@ M[3J%!SWN3L$"4SK=4A:1\$6NZ`ILR@S7A3=D5O;KR@BMENDPJ MM^*2=/DA#&($%1-):5/49F*VP\JRW&JI;N.J@[-USA)*&`XF%/TR45M1X1OL;_!#^R.<8`5BG!<3$*P.FP>YA M2?6&M ^2#916T2#+@A&L'A-:Q@`@S*@\-9]%1=<(@* LZIO;L=!.JF,W;[>5"NT%TO&BOU9C?S0.% MGY#]SM-%%K/%6F^E$=U;P>I-P'_HSIY+?P_K12[2S1;./U&JZ-I'R1F$&6@@ MDJ1!'Q*B6S#57R.G5Y+36]H(U[+G^H_46FV348\N5SF9]4,O%EP:2!X+)LIO MI,.!A,RTS[N49EJE(Y3P2$H(3\IXC5/L[J;9X[)/9XJ.Q-Z =RJN3B,(T6%D MXY8954B$R0,+3I>+&B2C46FIVB+E'U1(U*KBS:(3-9NU*O8SH$!3=H9/"(RT M`:> MR82=$3805($PF))*=^L>"8 =E*--$BZ!!4&B3HDZ1H$6O(5 R"D+IT3[0[A0V0ER?@G#8X30G>[L/N2#R[Y(@=HH#W&$VW7 MR1)(0WQ9IPH&DC5#+B#JI $H^Z!"'$Z2GK9NL <=%Z-]6>EXM%(>T2]PY*V3 M0"= (0[NG-N;#FAZD6 M21JG+2TJ+AKSHI:]DU@E$9BZ;B5,4RG=6 .57M) \E0O:7*C;S" 0NE^I 'V MJ2O3]X\/S5__U.<'*8?24QPHM4NR8)_!%;PF'*F._/\`!3;V3V\=N4FH@X*9 MD:W=6:>.RK MY/'9`9V1ON4PHM^DK[>!PA=T/XIJ>>ZMG@Q/';_P`R07<=_FJ)Y3-Y5K&Y3Y'S^:#]R@_E M-7WX4F?-*WGNCLGT^ZS[>>ZT,&8[\]H5G)G2=WSB%3?,GZ2&WGO\U:''9,WE M&/T>W*"_A#JY[?-*R/)"'R3.4APG=QV4-/))W/92KB>WSE3='\GY2AB/Y/XJ MPV)_-^7XH5D2/H_)-7SV5H\=E*GGNEE3'? M\%79VY^:FWY?-&JC7Z*GIVV?*91'1/YOXHN/]/\`-^:NV<]H46S&L?- =P>4 M83M_.X\EGY'/YW*JN^EW2^]0;RIN[_Q46J(Y5AGT=8^:57\X(CY?^9*3^2J- MO*L].^DMET['1/'YJPW_OJT&S+>>?)1=VX^7^OTD3^_LD M/X=U'(X[?/\`U^BN;ZQMG7[/_;W3_P!!<;U#;)CTO[.[_OZHLB599PI>"7=. M$ZDG"G9RE7SV2[]E7L^2RLSOPL>SE025O#X*L,Y_N5EG!Y0G1Y)O]=%:QO\` M646W^*G2D[E"=PI)5\]U=/T/[E1=RE7_`!36JIE\'GY+)=S_`'J=?/97:E?J MX[([.5,H82//9.4F*3N4-W"CX)CV_@F/*>KGLC%,.4Y2OY_)7:9\T[^.R"?DF*@5-OT2H MM22=V4!RBU\]T[N>R ?I*PS@\*)2=_K*&.4Z+6F*B%,_10G(M?'=0=\OFI5< MH;_I=TP1&_27:_5?=L_PO_1VKKF<-X_BC?FJO;]%WT>._P#W]>>_62/6,;/[ M,KG3RIGYH@X0W*3/HH9X*3NR=B=W/=/W2'S3GC^]0=PH.X0N_9''T5*O@\?Q M4FJ+OI=_DI?ZZIBG1&\JPWCLHGC^Y *A=PJ-JIW<=E5 References: Subject: Re: Help I.D.'ing Console Radio, Please Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:42:30 GMT "Joe Hungate (K8OM)" wrote in message news:B_xZe.365290$x96.3820@attbi_s72... > I've been scaning old family photo negatives from the 1940's and > 1950's and found this picture of my sister sitting beside a console > radio we had back then. I believe this picture was probably taken > around 1949. I can remember this radio when I was a little tike in > the early 1950's but I don't know what ever became of it. I would > really like to find one, restore it and put it in my antique radio > collection (I have 20 consols now so one more won't matter). > > Can anyone please help me identify this console???? It appears to > have 6 bands (A-F), push buttons, slide rule dial and a tuning eye. > I really appreciate any help in identifying this console. Please > email me at your convenience at: > > radiojoe@mchsi.com > > Thanks!!!!! > > Looks like a Silvertone from about 1941. jim menning Article: 323078 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: m_bunis@conknet.com (Marty Bunis) Subject: New England Antique Radio Club Fall Swap Meet Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 14:53:18 GMT Message-ID: <4336b85b_2@newspeer2.tds.net> The New England Antique Radio Club will hold its Fall Radio Swap Meet Saturday October 8, 2005 at Saint Stan’s Hall, Pine Hill Road, Nashua, NH. Participating will be club members from throughout New England, New York and New Jersey with over 100 tables of antique and collectible radios, TVs, parts, books, magazines, advertising and other related items for sale.The public is invited to attend and enjoy a day of radio fun and nostalgia. Show hours are 7am to 12 noon. Admission during exhibitor set-up from 7am -8am is $15; early admission from 8am-9am is $5 and general admission after 9am is $2. To reach St. Stan’s Hall take Rt. 3 (Everett Turnpike) to exit 6 (Rt. 130 east). Follow Rt. 130 east for a very short distance. Take a left at the light just after the Merrimack County Savings Bank. You will now be on Blue Hill Ave. which crosses over the highway and becomes Pine Hill Road. St. Stan’s Hall will be on the right. Watch for the NEARC signs. For more information about the meet, contact meet chairman Marty Bunis by phone (603) 938-5051 or email (m_bunis@conknet.com). Visit the NEARC website at www.nearc.net Article: 323079 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 09:39:54 -0600 Message-ID: <16727-4336C4CA-675@storefull-3255.bay.webtv.net> References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> Get in the habit of double checking before the power supply is plugged in or the radio switched on . On my power supply the filament leads are fatter than all the rest . Article: 323080 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Daniele" Subject: BFO Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 16:05:36 GMT Anyone having a schematic for adding a BFO into a receiver? -- Daniele ^___^ http://www.tuberadio.it Article: 323081 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 12:16:28 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> <1127664321.137713.21050@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Eddie Brimer wrote: > a plug. one that you can't plug in wrong. > There's still the connections on the battery end for Murphy to work with. I'm trying to come up with a good scheme for my homebrew sets. I've been using vintage or brass binding posts on both the replica battery end and on the receiver end - primarily to not be tied to specific cables and plugs or cords hardwired to the radio or battery. Thats why I'm wanting to protect the tubes rather than going to oddball connectors. -Bill Article: 323082 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: fix Dual 1019 References: <1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1127595807.73a2c62740f11224bedb37fce3db92db@teranews> <4335c9f5$0$219$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43365061$0$240$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 17:26:03 GMT CalBubba wrote: > Jeffrey D Angus wrote: >> >> I've been using Bosch (purple) demolition hammer grease. >> I had a fairly large tube of it left over from my construction >> tool repair days. > > You've been using this Bosch grease for Dual platter sleeve bearings and > the ball bearing thrust assembly? Yeah, it stays in place quite nicely. And as others have mentioned, I use white lithium grease on any sliding surfaces. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323083 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve" Subject: Moto 9VT1 TV: its alive! Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:43:07 GMT I just love this hobby! Last weekend I bought a Motorola 9VT1 tabletop TV at a local flea market. Nice original condition, and for $50, why not. It was built in 1949, and uses an 8" electrostatic deflection CRT. This is only the second TV I've restored (electrically). The first was a 1949 GE with magnetic deflection. 12+ hours, and a serious dent in my on hand supply of capacitors (I replaced ALL of them, except micas and ceramics). Final problem was an open in the mixer coil, which I was able to repair. Amazingly all tubes, including the CRT were good as well as the HV transformer. Over they years, I've repaired/restored 100's of radios, but getting an old TV working is taking things to the next level. Showed it to my wife....her comment, "its not COLOR"! Groan... Thanks for listening guys, just had to share with folks that would appreciate this. Steve Article: 323084 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 16:00:00 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Moto 9VT1 TV: its alive! References: Message-ID: <93c64$433701c2$4232bdac$14838@COQUI.NET> Steve wrote: > Over they years, I've repaired/restored 100's of radios, but getting > an old TV working is taking things to the next level. Showed it to my > wife....her comment, "its not COLOR"! Groan... > > Thanks for listening guys, just had to share with folks that would > appreciate > this. Congrats Steve. I've only done one TV and it was a Pilot TV-37 so it really doesn't count as a TV :) My family's comment "why is the picture so small?" -Bill Article: 323085 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback From: Larry References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 16:03:26 -0400 CalBubba wrote in news:43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com: > How 'bout that? > > Bubba > > My pick in MP3 Players...... I'm currently in love with my Digital Mind Xclef 500 MP3 player: http://www.digmind.com/store/index_500.html I have the 100 GB hard drive model. It's an amazing player for $80 more than a damnable Apple Ipod with nothing....and only 20GB of space. The 500 uses STANDARD 2.5" laptop hard drives with a STANDARD plug. It uses, although permanently-mounted inside it, a STANDARD Li-Ion battery pack which runs it an amazing 22 hours on a charge! It charges from dead in about 3 hours, ready to go again. The charger is internal and automatic and digmind has added a 5V 2.5A car cord to the accessories for $15 to charge it from the car if you like (not really necessary). The AC charger will run on ANY AC power on the planet from 85VAC to 260VAC. It's a switcher! Plug the Xclef 500 into any computer and XP treats it like a STANDARD USB2 (or 1.1) hard drive....NOT some proprietary MP3 player crap you have to use special software to load it with because the music industry bribed your politicians. You can copy ANY files on and off its hard drive, including MP3s, with your favorite STANDARD file handler, even DOS. No need to sit for hours loading it onezy-twozy with the DCMA filtering it. Want to take some software or a movie to a friend's house? Just load it up like any hard drive, unplug and carry your STANDARD USB cable or use his. His Windows will boot it without extra software...it's STANDARD. The player firmware makes searching for a song or artist quite easy with several ways to search, even while it's playing the last song! There is a "jog key" on the side to move forward or back in songs, even if they are randomized in a directory of 5000 songs at the touch of the key. Hold the jog key in and a quick menu pops up to adjust the USER DEFINED equalizer, and do other things you use often. It also tunes the FM tuners 100 channel memory! Besides being an MP3 player, it also plays OGG files, WMA files, ASF files and WAV files, in any mix. It's also an MP3 RECORDER with two modes...Line in at high speed you can set for hi-fi-stereo recording of events...and Voice Recorder from its own capacitor mic (tiny hole in top) at slow speeds to save meetings, conversations, make electronic notes, etc. You can also read TXT files on its display. Just point to the TXT file on is hard drive and it's a reader. The FM radio, using the headphone cable for an antenna, is very sensitive. I can hear Savannah FM stations in Charleston 100 miles away, outdoors of course. FM has storage channels to save fav stations and switches them with the jog key on the side. You can even record off the radio in it straight to MP3 file on the hard drive. All the specs are on: http://www.digmind.com/store/index_500.html#TechSpecs Oh, stranger than fiction....IT'S MADE IN CALIFORNIA!...from a Korean design. Digital Mind has always been very fast to answer my emails with questions. All the O/S and firmware are all stored on the huge hard drive and are easily upgradeable when changes come out. You simply save the new firmware in the root directory and it boots to it...no EPROM funny business. At $149 with no hard drive, you can even put your own hard drive into it....at your own risk, of course. The hard drives factory installed are Toshibas rated at 2000G shock. Even my stepvan hasn't managed to make it crash. Keep it in the included very nice leather carrying case with nice belt clip. Mine still looks new after a year on-the-road. -- Larry Article: 323086 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "effi" Subject: Re: What's a Zizzer? Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 15:22:21 -0500 Message-ID: <11je1nkmmh9kc08@corp.supernews.com> References: <5CJYe.11277$0u2.2289350@news20.bellglobal.com> <08SdnR-YKbmOF67eRVn-qg@comcast.com> <1127465100.277836.96310@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <11j7hnege5jib72@corp.supernews.com> "Steven Dinius_" <10kc@srvinet.com> wrote in message news:uSPYe.1644$wR4.309296@monger.newsread.com... > No, and you should get it out right away. It's muriatic acid! you don't sound like madge > "effi" wrote in message > news:11j7hnege5jib72@corp.supernews.com... >> "Steven" wrote in message >> news:1127465100.277836.96310@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >> > Your hand is soaking in it right now. >> >> >> Is it mild? >> >> > > From kawninja.at.nospam.cableone.dot.net Wed Sep 28 23:55:14 EDT 2005 Article: 323087 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve P." Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: BFO Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 16:03:52 -0500 Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Message-ID: <11je45poct9kk41@corp.supernews.com> References: X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 X-RFC2646: Format=Flowed; Original X-Complaints-To: abuse@supernews.com Lines: 10 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.glorb.com!sn-xit-04!sn-xit-12!sn-xit-09!sn-post-02!sn-post-01!supernews.com!corp.supernews.com!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:323087 Ten-Tec http://www.tentec.com sells a small BFO kit for $11 + shipping that works very well with 455 KHz IF radios. "Daniele" wrote in message news:kVzZe.20040$Jr.322927@twister2.libero.it... > Anyone having a schematic for adding a BFO > into a receiver? Article: 323088 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Crazy George" References: <1127679135.125468.207400@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: 0-2.5A AC Ammeter available Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 16:30:48 -0500 Message-ID: <43371a93_2@news1.prserv.net> Good luck with that, Peter; I have one around here somewhere of about that same range. Got tired of trying to sell it at Antique Radio Club meetings with no takers. Maybe this NG is a little more receptive of a useful item. -- Crazy George Article: 323089 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Anyone know anything about this one ?? Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 16:10:37 -0600 Message-ID: A guy just dropped off this case to me. ( Pic of the same case can be seen at the Radio Attic, here's the link http://radioatticarchives.com/images/unknowns/Baby_Grand-01.jpg ). All I have is the case...no chassis..speaker...etc.. There are no ID tags on the inside of the case at all. The case is in such darn good condition that I thought I might see what I could do with it. Anybody know anything about this one ?? Ben Article: 323090 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: Magic Tuning Eye Note Message-ID: <058ej1h9cveebu9blacjgv1pqr932vb6cu@4ax.com> References: <1127661768.802676.117590@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 22:17:47 GMT Possibly stupid question: Given that an eye tube is in fact, a very simple form of CRT, could one be "rejuvenated" by running the heater on an overvoltage for a minute or so as used to be done with television CRTs? Or could one use one of those little booster transformers to up the heater voltage a bit in an effort to get more emission? I think I may actually have one of them kicking around. Or would you just be giving the dead eye tube a Viking funeral? Gordon Richmond Article: 323091 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 18:21:37 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Anyone know anything about this one ?? References: Message-ID: <7349a$433722f3$4232bdac$22868@COQUI.NET> Benjamaniac wrote: > A guy just dropped off this case to me. ( Pic of the same case can be > seen at the Radio Attic, here's the link > http://radioatticarchives.com/images/unknowns/Baby_Grand-01.jpg ). All I > have is the case...no chassis..speaker...etc.. There are no ID tags on the > inside of the case at all. The case is in such darn good condition that I > thought I might see what I could do with it. Anybody know anything about > this one ?? > Ben > > That empty case might be cool to mount one of those old drugstore tube testers in...or build a theremin into it. Looks pretty homely as a radio. -Bill Article: 323092 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 18:24:44 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Magic Tuning Eye Note References: <1127661768.802676.117590@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <058ej1h9cveebu9blacjgv1pqr932vb6cu@4ax.com> Message-ID: Gordon Richmond wrote: > Possibly stupid question: > > Given that an eye tube is in fact, a very simple form of CRT, could > one be "rejuvenated" by running the heater on an overvoltage for a > minute or so as used to be done with television CRTs? Or could one use > one of those little booster transformers to up the heater voltage a > bit in an effort to get more emission? I think I may actually have one > of them kicking around. > > Or would you just be giving the dead eye tube a Viking funeral? > > Gordon Richmond The problem is not typically due to emission, its loss of phosphoresence on the target. If it is by chance the fault of emission, then goosing up the heater or even the B+ might stretch a bit more life out of it. -BM Article: 323093 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Identify Weird Radio Thing Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 18:28:34 -0400 Message-ID: <11je94o196io51a@corp.supernews.com> Now on binary group- thanks! John H. Article: 323094 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: Magic Tuning Eye Note Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 18:32:04 -0400 Message-ID: <11je9bc6vgmdtc3@corp.supernews.com> References: <1127661768.802676.117590@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <058ej1h9cveebu9blacjgv1pqr932vb6cu@4ax.com> Bill wrote: > > If it is by chance the fault of emission, then goosing up the heater or > even the B+ might stretch a bit more life out of it. > > Yes, I pump up the B+ occasionally for this purpose- http://www.antiqueradios.com/chrs/journal/eyetube.html Thanks, Norm.... John H. Article: 323095 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback Date: 25 Sep 2005 18:14:02 -0500 Message-ID: <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Larry wrote: > My pick in MP3 Players...... > > I'm currently in love with my Digital Mind Xclef 500 MP3 player: > http://www.digmind.com/store/index_500.html > I have the 100 GB hard drive model. It's an amazing player for $80 more > than a damnable Apple Ipod with nothing....and only 20GB of space. ... > At $149 with no hard drive, you can even put your own hard drive into > it....at your own risk, of course. The hard drives factory installed are > Toshibas rated at 2000G shock. Even my stepvan hasn't managed to make it > crash. Keep it in the included very nice leather carrying case with nice > belt clip. Mine still looks new after a year on-the-road. > In my case, all I want to play is downloaded talk radio programs from far away, not music. I chose my unit because it can use OGG Vorbis compression, which I expected to become an open standard for this media. But, it hasn't. The broadcasters are all settled on Real streaming technology and on MP3. I only need about 4 hours of total capacity -- that's four 1-hour shows. The 256 mb capacity is fine for this, and the lithium battery offers good functionality. Now, I have no idea how one goes about replacing the battery, or even if it's possible to open the product without destroying it. But, probably, when the battery gives out, the whole thing will be obsolete -- and we'll be on to having the music download directly into my head using an IC implant and a button cell in my mouth. Bubba Article: 323096 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <_8idneMq05UrvqreRVn-iw@comcast.com> Subject: Re: AK-60 Questions Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 00:13:21 GMT I don't know how many were made, but the same Rider's sez there are two types of the version 3! So they must've made a couple of them anyway . . . -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:_8idneMq05UrvqreRVn-iw@comcast.com... > ya got me on that 55/60 "3rd Version"! I wonder if any were made? NEVER > seen one. Now, the model 70's and 80 series AK's had a large single > shaft > cap... I wonder if they just issued those, and not this "3rd" version > (???) > > Any other readers here ever seen this single shaft cap 55 or 60? > > Mark Oppat > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:YSwZe.2915$zQ3.663@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> Mark, >> >> I got the tuning condenser information from Riders -- Volume III Page > 3-28. >> >> "Both the 1st and 2nd types have four separate variable condensers >> controlled by pulleys and belts." >> >> On the third type, "The variable condensers are of the 'multiple' type, > with >> the four rotors mounted on a common shaft." >> >> The chassis layout on page 3-33 shows the tuning condensers arranged in a >> peculiar way; I'd sure like to see one of these flipped over to see what > it >> really looks like. >> >> I would suppose there are a lot of first types, some second types, with > the >> third type being the rare one. These were introduced in 1929, when the >> economy was booming. We all know what happened in October of that same >> year. By the time the third version was introduced, around 1933, I doubt > if >> there were many people willing to fork over the $120, plus tubes, for a >> radio, at a time when there were better ones on sale for less. Even >> Atwater-Kent boasted that they were immune to the depression because they >> did not depend on stock, but they indeed went belly-up in 1936. >> >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message >> news:EvCdnaJNgZ5zgaveRVn-vQ@comcast.com... >> > Gary, >> > at the time this set hit the market (1929 model year) electrodynamic >> > speakers were brand new. This AK60 and the 55C were the first for AK > for >> > ED >> > spkrs, Majestic had the model 70 and 90, and they both sold a TON of >> > these. RCA had sets out with them , as did others later, but seems the > AK >> > and Majestics I see everywhere, and have worked on many over my 30 >> > years >> > in >> > this. >> > >> > Now, MR AK himself did some market tests with folks at the time, and >> > he >> > determined the "duller" sound (less treble) was preferred. I can only >> > imagine this was because 1. that is what they were used to, and 2. >> > record >> > and broadcast quality was still fairly noisy, and most of the noise was > in >> > the upper range. >> > >> > So, he had these "quality" condensors added, meaning "tone quality" > not >> > that they were of any great construction. As it turns out, they are as >> > crappy as any other cap, and can be leaky enough to cause more > distortion >> > than the set already has (plenty). I always cut them out. To do that, >> > you >> > restore the set to playing condition, then pop the top on the audio >> > can, >> > and >> > expose many wires coming out of the tar. You play the set, and cut a >> > wire. >> > If the volume drops, you solder that one back and cut another. If the >> > volume goes up a little and the high end perks up, you did it right. >> > Wish >> > I knew what the right color was, but the wires are so tarred up you > often >> > cant tell anyways. >> > >> > In the good old SERVICE magazines, and others, there were articles >> > about >> > bypassing the loc-dist sw (in distant pos) and use that spot for a tone >> > control. Many servicers did that. Worth it if you are keeping the >> > set, >> > maybe. >> > >> > BTW, ALL of the AK55's and 60's had the tuning caps ganged with a >> > brass >> > belt, the different versions had to do with the RF coils, bias >> > resistors >> > and >> > the vol. controls only. >> > >> > Mark Oppat >> > >> > >> > >> > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message >> > news:G7nZe.2740$zQ3.2643@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> >> Mark, >> >> >> >> I'll be out tomorrow as well -- DJ for a car cruise at Quaker Steak in >> >> Pinellas Park. >> >> >> >> No, I haven't checked any resistors or "condensers" as of yet. I'd > hate >> > to >> >> see any resistors be bad, as I like those dogbones -- but I'll have to > do >> >> what I have to do. As for the caps, they're HUGE! Again, I'll do >> >> what > I >> >> have to. >> >> >> >> As for the tubes, I finally figured out the code -- and this may sound >> >> stupid, except for the fact that this is by far my oldest project > radio. >> >> The UX-245 and CX-345 are the original tube types, which would have > been >> >> globes. The 45's are "modern" replacements. I was told this was an >> >> original 1929 model, and by looking through the literature there are >> >> at >> >> least three variations. The early type has a single volume control, >> >> while >> >> the late type and the third version have a dual ganged control. The >> >> early >> >> and late have the TRF tuning caps ganged together with belts, while >> >> the >> >> third version has all the variable caps on a single shaft. I've >> > definitely >> >> got the belts, and it appears the volume control is a single wirewound >> >> control (and is also HUGE!) >> >> >> >> Now -- regarding that "quality condenser", just what is it -- some >> >> sort >> >> of >> >> fixed tone control? I suppose theoretically you could actually make a >> > tone >> >> control by putting a pot in series with the cap. I'm not quite sure I >> > want >> >> to remove this -- if it's in it sounds tubby, and if it's removed the >> > sound >> >> is clearer. I might try it either way to see what difference it >> >> makes, >> > but >> >> I'm leaning toward keeping it there. If I want good sound I'll turn >> >> on >> > the >> >> "conversion" Buick radio on my other bench; if I turn on the A-K I'd >> > rather >> >> it sound authentic -- then again a friend of mine has two AK-55's; one > in >> > a >> >> table and one a metal table model. He hates the sound of both. >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> "Mark Oppat" wrote in message >> >> news:Vf-dnYYLbKMFfqjeRVn-tg@comcast.com... >> >> > Gary, >> >> > used 45's are not that expensive. I have some here at $18 ea, but > if >> > you >> >> > really want to save, just use weak ones, only $10ea, as I have > found >> > the >> >> > AK60 has gain to spare by a mile... and , using slightly weak ones > wont >> >> > matter a hoot. I recommend cutting out the >> >> > "quality" cap in the audio xfmer. Call me and I'll explain. >> >> > 734-455-4169 11am-9pm usually... I am out sunday til probably 6pm. >> >> > >> >> > Mark Oppat >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message >> >> > news:X_fZe.2637$zQ3.447@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> >> >> Once again I've had a little free time this afternoon, so I decided > to >> >> > take >> >> >> another quick look at this AK-60. First thing, to satisfy my >> > curiosity, >> >> >> I >> >> >> decided to pull out the tubes to test. Those 45 output tubes, >> >> >> well, >> > one >> >> > is >> >> >> bad and the other isn't even a 45! Somebody stuck a 26 in there. > Not >> >> >> too >> >> >> surprising . . . >> >> >> >> >> >> As for the other tubes, so far they all test good. However I > noticed >> > by >> >> >> looking at the schematics, both of the original AK and the Rider's, >> > they >> >> >> don't even mention the tube types that belong there! On the radio >> > itself >> >> > it >> >> >> shows "UX-245 or CX-345", which I take to mean that 45's belong in >> > those >> >> >> sockets -- especially since the rectifier shows "UX-280 or CX-380" > and >> >> >> there's an 80 in the socket. However the three RF amps are 26A's, > and >> > I >> >> > can >> >> >> only assume they're correct as there is nothing to confirm or deny > it. >> >> >> Then, wouldn't you know, on two of these the grid caps popped off >> >> >> as > I >> >> > tried >> >> >> to remove the wires. >> >> >> >> >> >> So my next question: What to do with the 26A's. I'm sure I can >> >> >> carefully >> >> >> resolder the little wire to the cap, and possibly use some epoxy >> >> >> filler >> >> >> to >> >> >> mount it back on. But is the epoxy heat resistant? What do the > rest >> > of >> >> > you >> >> >> guys do to fix these? >> >> >> >> >> >> Then to decide -- do I spend my money on two 45's or a tank of gas? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> >> >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> >> >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> > > > Article: 323097 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve" References: Subject: Re: Moto 9VT1 TV: its alive! Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 01:34:33 GMT I had a blast watching the entire 49'ers vs Dallas football gave on it today. I was amazed that it was solid for the whole time. I figure the HV transformer is now well baked, and shouldn't have to worry about moisture causing problems. Yes, this set used .001 uF, and .005 uF at 6KV black beauty caps to couple the H & V to the deflection plates. None seemed too leaky, but the old ones did cause problems. Luckily I had some NOS replacements "in stock", so I didn't need to use ceramic caps. The biggest problem was the 'ballast tube', which is really several power resistors (nichrome wire wound around mica plates). Even though the wire was all good, the connections to the wire going to the octal base were all corroded. I used a bunch of 100 ohm, 12 watt resistors in series/parallel mounted on a big aluminum plate to make a substitute. The Moto TV-71 (my next project) uses the same thing. I will mount a small muffin fan inside the case to get some of the heat out. Those resistors and tubes get HOT. I'm really jazzed to find one of the early 'flip up mirror' TV's to restore. My Grandmother had one of these in her basement when I was a kid, and tried my darnest to get it, but my folks said no, so it got junked. I've never seen one for sale in person, so it may be a while! Steve Article: 323098 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback From: Larry References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 21:50:12 -0400 CalBubba wrote in news:43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com: > I only need about 4 hours of total capacity -- > that's four 1-hour shows. > All you need to record anything is Total Recorder from: http://www.HighCriteria.com It's only $29 with lifetime support and upgrades. It's been so long since I got mine I forget to upgrade it. They send me emails. Total recorder sits between your sound card and computer, a sort of soundcard proxy server, grabbing any audio or data that comes to or from the soundcard, whether the source likes it or not. I record BBC with it, straight into MP3 format (on the fly) and put the files onto my Xclef 500 for play in the car or truck at my leisure. It will encode any sound source you plug into your standard old computer soundcard in any format you have a codec for, OGG if you insist, though I can't imagine why. If you want EXACTLY copied compression, you get FLAC for free. FLAC encode a CD, then decode the FLAC back into the original file and it has the same EXACT bits...completely lossless. MP3 is close enough at 128Kbps. I use the Lame Encoder, which is also free, last time I downloaded it. You already have the computer on the internet with a hard drive and soundcard. Total Recorder is so easy to use. It has a timer, you don't even have to be there. You can also tell Total Recorder to chop the program into X minutes or X byte parts to make the files more manageable, for fit on a CDR for instance. It does that too. Take a look on High Criteria's website. It will also convert files in one format to another...wav to MP3 for instance. My other advise is to quit buying crap just because it's cheap, but that's another issue you have to figure out for yourself....(c; Read about FLAC, always free, at: http://flac.sourceforge.net/ Hell, it's even ported to the Amiga!...(c; -- Larry Article: 323099 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: Radio interfrence from ........ Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:01:12 -0700 Message-ID: References: On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 03:07:55 -0230, Terry wrote: snip > Any idea what those 'electricity saving' buttons were and how they > could/might have affected radio reception. another snip > > Any comment welcome. Solid state diodes can cause radio interference. What happens is that when current is flowing through them in the forward direction, there are lots of charge carriers in the junction. When the voltage reverses polarity, these carriers don't just disappear. A large current now flows in the reverse direction until all the charge is removed. Then the current suddenly stops. This sudden change of current generates lots of harmonics of the power frequency and can easily cover the entire broadcast band. There are ways to deal with this problem. One is to put a capacitor across the diode. This works in equipment but can't be done for a button that goes under a light bulb. Another way is to use a "fast recovery rectifier". This is a diode designed so that the reverse current stops very quickly after reverse voltage is applied. If this happens, the current and voltage change is a lot smaller and the harmonics are a lot weaker. Fast recovery rectifiers can be used for switching power supplies (generally in high voltage circuits; low voltage circuits use Schottky diodes or synchronous rectifiers) since they don't limit the maximum switching frequency the way ordinary diodes do. There are some, however, that are advertised as being for use in audio equipment, precisely to eliminate the problem you mention. The time it takes for a diode to stop conducting is listed in the manufacturer's data sheet under "reverse recovery time". It depends mostly on the diode's construction, the forward current, and the reverse voltage applied. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 323100 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: I hate that old rubber-insulated wiring! Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:48:50 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1127251553.999180.187390@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 14:25:54 -0700, AuroraOldRadios wrote: > Philco 41-250. The last cap I needed to replace was under the automatic > tuning coils assemblies. All was working well. I moved a couple of of > those old wires to get access to solder. Now I have the dreaded > intermittant noise. Time to wire in new jumpers, I guess. That Mile-Hi > ozone sure kills rubber. The automatic tuner assemblies have > cloth-covered wire, but many of the others on the chassis are now > cracked rubber....dang-it. If you use vinyl insulated wire of the right color and diameter and lightly sand the surface, it can look remarkably like the old rubber but it won't rot. It will, however, melt if you touch it with a soldering iron. Then it doesn't look so much like rubber anymore! -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 323101 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "benjamaniac" Subject: Re: Anyone know anything about this one ?? Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 21:13:10 -0600 Message-ID: References: <7349a$433722f3$4232bdac$22868@COQUI.NET> "Bill" wrote in message news:7349a$433722f3$4232bdac$22868@COQUI.NET... > Benjamaniac wrote: > > > A guy just dropped off this case to me. ( Pic of the same case can be > > seen at the Radio Attic, here's the link > > http://radioatticarchives.com/images/unknowns/Baby_Grand-01.jpg ). All I > > have is the case...no chassis..speaker...etc.. There are no ID tags on the > > inside of the case at all. The case is in such darn good condition that I > > thought I might see what I could do with it. Anybody know anything about > > this one ?? > > Ben > > > > > That empty case might be cool to mount one of those old drugstore tube > testers in...or build a theremin into it. > Looks pretty homely as a radio. > > -Bill Bill, I never thought about building a Theremin into it !!!! That's a GREAT idea !!! Thanks !! Ben Article: 323102 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: fix Dual 1019 Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 22:19:29 -0500 Message-ID: <72pej1desc0e7u91hqvmrscd04f4nahbjj@4ax.com> References: <1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <4335044e$0$188$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1127608728.493654.75580@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <433623cb$0$216$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> On 24 Sep 2005 23:15:02 -0500 CalBubba wrote: >I use a Dow silicon-based grease myself, >something that doubt is still made under that name("BR-33 grease, light >consistency"). D-C still makes a Molykote #33 silicone grease which is available in 3 different consistencies. I'd be willing to bet that it's the same thing. It's a good choice for metal to plastic lubrication. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 323103 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" References: Subject: Re: OT: canadian post Message-ID: <8ZJZe.510$l03.95343@news20.bellglobal.com> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 23:32:15 -0400 "Haggis telus.net>" wrote in message news:owmZe.269573$HI.162816@edtnps84... > > On 24-Sep-2005, "xrongor" wrote: > >> do they just transfer it to the USPS when it hits the states or >> something? ive never seen any canadian post trucks driving around... > > Short answer - yes. I think they're in cahoots :-) > > Haggis. And they've been in cahoots for a long time too. It works well from the US to Canada... -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario Article: 323104 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Radio interfrence from ........ From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 00:02:49 -0400 Jim Mueller wrote in news:pan.2005.09.26.02.01.11.722804@nospam.com: > Solid state diodes can cause radio interference. Hmm....Wonder if I can get away with using this text with the neighbors next time they start bitching the 1500 watt ham station is tearing up some consumer piece of crap?.....hmm....(c; -- Larry Article: 323105 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <7349a$433722f3$4232bdac$22868@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Anyone know anything about this one ?? Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 04:27:34 GMT "benjamaniac" wrote in message news:dh7p03$c712$1@news3.infoave.net... > > >> That empty case might be cool to mount one of those old drugstore >> tube >> testers in...or build a theremin into it. >> Looks pretty homely as a radio. >> >> -Bill > > Bill, > I never thought about building a Theremin into it !!!! That's > a GREAT > idea !!! Thanks !! > Ben > > > > Shoulda just bought the one on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6562552082 jim menning Article: 323106 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "benjamaniac" Subject: Re: Anyone know anything about this one ?? Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 23:23:33 -0600 Message-ID: References: <7349a$433722f3$4232bdac$22868@COQUI.NET> <9uadnedxIdt74qreRVn-qA@comcast.com> "Phil B" wrote in message news:9uadnedxIdt74qreRVn-qA@comcast.com... > "jim menning" wrote in message > news:WMKZe.92446$3S5.3684@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > Shoulda just bought the one on eBay: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6562552082 > > Jim, you just masterfully tied Ben's interest in Theremins with his radio > case and the original RCA Theremin. Ben's case has the same look and feel > with the sloping top and it has a built-in place to put the speaker. Ben: > this has got to be your next project! Please post pictures when your done. > > Phil B > > Phil, No problem. I'll post all sorts of pics on this one. This is one helluva idea !!!!!! I can't wait to get it going. I'm going to put the tube version of the theremin in this one...it deserves it !!! Ben Article: 323107 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Wumpus" Subject: Visit Wumpus's Old Radio World Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:26:01 +0200 Message-ID: <3ppimkFbgs93U1@uni-berlin.de> When you are interested in German old-time radio sets and in crystal receivers visit my web site: http://www.oldradioworld.de You will find there 537 non commercial web pages, 2250 photos and graphics and 59 MB web space. This is the first German special web site, online since 1996. Visit my four special forums, related to old-time radio sets: http://www.forumromanum.de/member/forum/forum.php?action=index&entryid=&USER=user_117789 Additional you can visit my special online shop related to old radio sets: http://www.oldradioworld.de/shopd/shopindex.htm 12,600 schematics (circuit diagrams for may German and European radio sets, portables, tape recordes, tv-sets) in stock. List of available schematics: http://www.oldradioworld.de/xschematic.htm Article: 323108 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Visit Wumpus's Old Radio World References: <3ppimkFbgs93U1@uni-berlin.de> Message-ID: <5XMZe.710$556.171@tornado.socal.rr.com> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 06:54:57 GMT Wumpus wrote: > List of available schematics: > http://www.oldradioworld.de/xschematic.htm I've been there. I know the schematics are NOT free. However, they're worth everything that they charge for them. Good site, thanks for having it available to us. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323109 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: Crosley Volume Control Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 08:47:43 GMT My Rider's index shows it as being in 5-12, but I don't have Volume V. I'm missing Volumes I, II, V, and XVI and later. Possibly someone else can take it from there. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Ralph Seefeld" wrote in message news:VKmdnSBKFdWOGareRVn-rw@whidbeytel.com... > Hello, all. I'm just starting to restore a Crosley 8H1 that I bought at a > garage sale during the summer. It's in really nice cosmetic condition. I > was told that it worked, but it doesn't and I didn't really expect it to > anyway. It needs a total recap and a new volume control pot. Here's a > note I found inside: > > "Since no replacement volume control was available and old one was worn > causing distorion, a 680,000 ohm resistor was shunted across V. C. to > eliminate distortion." > > That "V. C." doesn't stand for voice coil or Victoria Cross, but volume > control, since that is where I found the resistor. > > My problem is that the V. C. is so far gone that I can't measure the > resistance and the schematic from Rider doesn't give a value. Could I use > a 500K to 1 meg pot, or does it need a higher value. I managed to read a > value up to about 250K but from there it went up into the megs real fast & > then infinity. I have plenty of spare parts if I just knew which one to > use. > > The schematic is at http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/653/M0003653.htm > > The volume control is marked #46, between resistors #28 and #34 in the > diagram. > > Thanks for your help. > > Ralph Seefeld > seefeld at whidbey dot com Article: 323110 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Is this antenna any good From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1127731913.029729.242510@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 12:06:09 GMT In article <1127731913.029729.242510@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>, n9vu@yahoo.com says... > > >Just wondered if anyone online uses this. It's obviously a compromise >antenna, but would it work better than let's say a long wire type >antenna? > > > > Well it works better than a short whip antenna on the radio because it is 20 feet long where the whip is only 4 or 5 feet... plus it has that roll of wire on the end of it... will it work better than a long wire.. yes if the long wire is only 20 feet long... if the longwire is 100 feet long then this thing won't do beans against it... John k9uwa Article: 323111 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43380A3D.D2497A98@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 14:47:33 GMT "Jeff, WB8NHV" wrote: > > Don't try to run continuity tests on battery tubes using a standard > ohmmeter. The voltage across the test probes could be high enough to > pop the filaments before you know what happened. I'd use a tube tester > with a 1- or 3-volt filament-voltage setting. I've never had the > misfortune of ruining one- or three-volt, etc. battery radio tubes this > way (using an ohmmeter to establish filament condition), but I offer > this advice as a friendly warning. After all, no one likes to see the > tubes in his/her treasured old battery set (or one he/she is repairing > for someone else) ruined by accident. > > Kind regards, > > Jeff (WB8NHV) > Fairport Harbor, Ohio USA What kind of meter are you using? Most multimeters use a 1.5 volt battery for the lower resistance ranges and are current limited to whatever the meter movement needs. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323112 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: Subject: Re: Crosley Volume Control Message-ID: <3tUZe.94305$3S5.93001@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 15:29:03 GMT "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:PAOZe.3867$oc.879@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > > My Rider's index shows it as being in 5-12, but I don't have Volume > V. I'm missing Volumes I, II, V, and XVI and later. > > Possibly someone else can take it from there. > > Your index is in error. Page 5-12 under Crosley is a model 181, with an entirely different lineup. Looks like Rider's won't be much help. Anybody have the original Crosley Manual? jim menning Article: 323113 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433814CF.2BABA750@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: FS: Triad N-67A Isolation transformer Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 15:32:41 GMT Someone on the group was looking for an isolation transformer recently. I have a clean, used Triad N-67A Isolation transformer150 VA with a 230/115 VAC primary and a 115 VAC secondary. $20 plus shipping. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323114 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Matt The Cat" Subject: Silvertone Phono Info Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 16:20:40 GMT Today, I picked up a Silvertone Phonograph in EXCELLENT condition. The finish is just beautiful and it works PERFECTLY. However, I can't find any info on the web about it AT ALL. Surprising. The back plate has this inscription. PFD I 9669 The former owner believes it's from the 19-teens, but that's all I got from him. Anyone have any ideas or know anything about Silvertone, beyond that they were made by Sears? Thanks in advance, Matt Article: 323115 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Is this antenna any good References: <1127731913.029729.242510@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 16:55:44 GMT RadioGary wrote: > Just wondered if anyone online uses this. It's obviously a compromise > antenna, but would it work better than let's say a long wire type > antenna? I'm surprised nobody else has noticed it's made with a Slinky(tm) toy. The only "nice" thing about this antenna is that it's easy to set up for a unknown length. However, it requres a piece of small rope down the middle of it to properly support it. For a while they were all the rage in the Amateur Radio magazines "hints and Kinks" sections. As a side note, it's made of cheap steel. You'd be better off just stealing a 50' phone cord and twisting the ends together and using that for an antenna. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323116 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback Date: 26 Sep 2005 12:05:05 -0500 Message-ID: <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Larry wrote: > CalBubba wrote in > news:43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com: > > >>I only need about 4 hours of total capacity -- >>that's four 1-hour shows. >> > > > All you need to record anything is Total Recorder from: > http://www.HighCriteria.com Thanks for the recommendation. ... you > have a codec for, OGG if you insist, though I can't imagine why. OGG Vorbis is an open source compression codec. Hopefully, it would become a standard for streaming to replace proprietary nightmares like Real Networks' technology. When I bought my player, it was one of only a few that could download OGG directly; it was important to me because I felt that it would be an emerging standard. I'd already found one broadcaster using it. However, it looks like it isn't gaining any traction. But, hell, lots of people (on this newsgroup, too) were predicting the demise of Air America. If OGG doesn't make it, I can fall back on my player's MP3 download and stright line audio input. > My other advise is to quit buying crap just because it's cheap, but that's > another issue you have to figure out for yourself....(c; Uh, Larry, I feel that you've laid a value judgement on me. Is that so? What did I post that would lead you to determine that I have purchased "cheap crap?" Care to explain? Bubba Article: 323117 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:17:41 GMT CalBubba wrote: > Uh, Larry, I feel that you've laid a value judgement on me. Is that so? > What did I post that would lead you to determine that I have purchased > "cheap crap?" Care to explain? That's easy. You have it. He has something else. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323118 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: <1127731913.029729.242510@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Is this antenna any good Message-ID: <0DWZe.320056$5N3.80749@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:56:12 GMT At our ham club last month we had an antenna Elmer night. That is where Elmer was a ham that mentored others into and with the hobby or Armature Radio. So the name stuck. Anyway, one of the guys had a slinky antenna. I brought up my MFJ-259b (see http://www.ppinyot.com/HomePage.htm mid page Utilities/Manuals/Schematics for equipment details) antenna analyzer. The slinky antenna would not get a good SWR. Well let me qualify that statement, It was way poorer than a trimmed length straight wire dipole. He could also barely get out on it nor could he receive very well. We tried all the obvious things like coax, connectors, insulators, etc. And he is a "sage" of a ham with many years of hands on experience. Well he scrapped the antenna. And I agree with the decision. PP. KB3LZP. "Jeffrey D Angus" wrote in message news:kKVZe.1541$y43.543@tornado.socal.rr.com... > > > RadioGary wrote: > >> Just wondered if anyone online uses this. It's obviously a compromise >> antenna, but would it work better than let's say a long wire type >> antenna? > > I'm surprised nobody else has noticed it's made with a Slinky(tm) > toy. The only "nice" thing about this antenna is that it's easy > to set up for a unknown length. However, it requres a piece of > small rope down the middle of it to properly support it. > > For a while they were all the rage in the Amateur Radio magazines > "hints and Kinks" sections. > > As a side note, it's made of cheap steel. You'd be better off > just stealing a 50' phone cord and twisting the ends together > and using that for an antenna. > > Jeff > > > > -- > RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to > the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal > force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED > under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323119 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Triad N-67A Isolation transformer Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 12:15:58 -0600 Message-ID: References: <433814CF.2BABA750@earthlink.net> i ended up scavanging a matched pair of power transformers to put back to back (thx larry) if it was me you were thinking of. but thanks. maybe someone else needs it. randy "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message news:433814CF.2BABA750@earthlink.net... > > > Someone on the group was looking for an isolation transformer > recently. > > I have a clean, used Triad N-67A Isolation transformer150 VA with a > 230/115 VAC primary and a 115 VAC secondary. > > $20 plus shipping. > > -- > ? > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida Article: 323120 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Mikael Carlsson Subject: WTB: Zenith Trans-Oceanic Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:01:08 +0200 Message-ID: <3pqurkFbenibU1@individual.net> Hi, Do any of you have a Zenith Tranc-Oceanic for sale? I am looking for a modell 600 of some sort. The radio should be in good order without any pieces missing. The radio should work. Shipping will be airmail to Sweden, so packaging should be done with great care. Please reply here or to my mail-address mickecamino at gmail dot com if you have a radio to spare. Sincerely, Mikael Carlsson Malmo, Sweden Article: 323121 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Heriberto" Subject: MICAMOLD CAPACITOR TYPE 0 - data Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 16:17:36 -0300 Message-ID: <433847c8_2@x-privat.org> Hi All: Know Anyone if Micamold capacitor type O is a mica capacitor ? - Please Help TIA Heriberto LU6DBU Article: 323122 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <43386240.B5AF8B88@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Triad N-67A Isolation transformer References: <433814CF.2BABA750@earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:03:13 GMT xrongor wrote: > > i ended up scavanging a matched pair of power transformers to put back to > back (thx larry) if it was me you were thinking of. but thanks. maybe > someone else needs it. > > randy No problem. I found it this morning while looking for some old Motorola two way radio parts in one of the storage buildings and didn't know you'd already found something. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323123 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: New England Antique Radio Club Fall Swap Meet Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:13:45 -0400 Message-ID: <43386489.9020405@SPAMMERSatt.net> References: <4336b85b_2@newspeer2.tds.net> <1127764973.437103.157120@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Peter Wieck wrote: > John H.: > > Will you be there? How does this compare to Kutztown? I understand that > it is one-day only and indoors, but as to the spread of materials > offered and range of quality? > > My family reunion is the same day so I am on the fence. I may go just to shop. Hosstraders hamfest (a relaxed outdoor hamfest nearer to me, 2 hr. drive vs. 3) is the day before too. Imagine Kutztown cut down by half or two thirds. Yes, there are 100 tables too, but somehow it's not nearly as big. Perhaps it's because you have to haul the stuff inside? The contest and stuff is fun though. For me, the problem with selling there is I have to be there at 7 am, which means a hotel room plus gas plus table fees, all for three hours of swap. SO, I have to have enough stuff to make it worth it. I'll call it 70% chance I'll go. Were you thinking of coming? John H. Article: 323124 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback From: Larry References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:45:04 -0400 CalBubba wrote in news:433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com: > Uh, Larry, I feel that you've laid a value judgement on me. Is that so? > What did I post that would lead you to determine that I have purchased > "cheap crap?" Care to explain? > > I was under the impression this non-functional MP3 player you bought was either used or some REAL bargain basement pricing from a shady little internet scumbag. Was I wrong? If so, my apologies and condolences. -- Larry Article: 323125 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Benjamaniac" Subject: Anyone need a old tube type Ham Amp ?? Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 16:37:07 -0600 Message-ID: I just ended up with an old tube type Ham Amp that I sure don't need. It was made by Kris Inc. and has three tubes, one 6JG6A and two 6LQ6's. It has a standby/transmit switch and an AM/SSB switch. A tag on the back says it's for use in the 10 & 6 Meter bands only. I have no idea of it's working condition, but it looks good !! I'd just as soon have someone from here end up with it as anybody, so...anybody wanna trade or anything like that ?? Ben Article: 323126 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Ron H" Subject: FM Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:48:00 -0500 Message-ID: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> Were there any good FM radios produced in fine wooden cabinets or did David Sarnoff stave off the development of FM until the age of wood had passed? Ron H. x-- 100 Proof News - http://www.100ProofNews.com x-- 30+ Days Binary Retention with High Completion x-- Access to over 1.9 Terabytes per Day - $8.95/Month x-- UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD Article: 323127 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: Silvertone Phono Info Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 19:01:00 -0400 Message-ID: <11jgvdchq29e251@corp.supernews.com> References: Matt The Cat wrote: > However, I can't find any > info on the web about it AT ALL. Surprising. NO, the web is quite useless for researching many obscure things. Those in the know about old phonos aren't on line much. And only Victors and Edisons matter to collectors. Everyone who has specific data on your phono is dead, and the info died with them. but fortunately they are usually quite generic. APSCO or others can provide parts, etc. (Antique Phonograph Supply). Good luck, John H. Article: 323128 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> Subject: Re: FM Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 23:02:08 GMT My RCA International console is wooden and has FM. -- Jon Scaptura Endicott, NY See my antique radios here: http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios "Ron H" wrote in message news:4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com... > Were there any good FM radios produced in fine wooden cabinets or did > David > Sarnoff stave off the development of FM until the age of wood had passed? > > Ron H. > > > > > x-- 100 Proof News - http://www.100ProofNews.com > x-- 30+ Days Binary Retention with High Completion > x-- Access to over 1.9 Terabytes per Day - $8.95/Month > x-- UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD > Article: 323129 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 19:32:19 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: FM References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> Message-ID: Ron H wrote: > Were there any good FM radios produced in fine wooden cabinets or did David > Sarnoff stave off the development of FM until the age of wood had passed? > > Ron H. Seems like nearly all of the big, fancy postwar consoles had FM. -Bill Article: 323130 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Ron H" References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> Subject: Re: FM Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 18:59:10 -0500 Message-ID: <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> Well in my humble opinion, the Model 8 and even the RCA International have that "new age" look. Do you know what I mean? They just don't have the eye appeal of a nice table top cathedral. Maybe they remind me of things like particle board or plywood vs maple and mahogany. Not the sort of radio that you want to sit next to and listen to the symphony. Does that make sense? or am I out of reality? Ron H. x-- 100 Proof News - http://www.100ProofNews.com x-- 30+ Days Binary Retention with High Completion x-- Access to over 1.9 Terabytes per Day - $8.95/Month x-- UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD Article: 323131 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Triad N-67A Isolation transformer Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 18:09:31 -0600 Message-ID: References: <433814CF.2BABA750@earthlink.net> <43386240.B5AF8B88@earthlink.net> "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message news:43386240.B5AF8B88@earthlink.net... > xrongor wrote: >> >> i ended up scavanging a matched pair of power transformers to put back to >> back (thx larry) if it was me you were thinking of. but thanks. maybe >> someone else needs it. >> >> randy > > > No problem. I found it this morning while looking for some old > Motorola two way radio parts in one of the storage buildings and didn't > know you'd already found something. well thx for remembering! randy Article: 323132 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 18:10:52 -0600 Message-ID: References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> if you ask me, these portable mp3 players are just the latest dick measuring device for those with cash to burn. randy - who still uses cdrw's and burns mp3's onto them for playback in devices he already owns. > Uh, Larry, I feel that you've laid a value judgement on me. Is that so? > What did I post that would lead you to determine that I have purchased > "cheap crap?" Care to explain? > > Bubba Article: 323133 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: FM Date: 26 Sep 2005 19:31:02 -0500 Message-ID: <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> Ron H wrote: > Well in my humble opinion, the Model 8 and even the RCA International have > that "new age" look. Do you know what I mean? They just don't have the eye > appeal of a nice table top cathedral. Maybe they remind me of things like > particle board or plywood vs maple and mahogany. > > Not the sort of radio that you want to sit next to and listen to the > symphony. Does that make sense? or am I out of reality? > > Ron H. > Well, it's certainly not deco, but the KLH Model 8 is veneer. Particle board is acoustically superior to board lumber when it comes to speaker cabinets and turntable bases. In fact, I once saw plans for a speaker that used tile sewer pipe for a box -- probably excellent. But, what I've forgotten is what the response of the KLH radio is. William, can you provide it? I have a hunch that some of those German Chinesed-cabinet things may have outperformed the KLHs in frequency range, but I'm not sure how smooth the response curve would be in the best of them. And then, of course, is the issue of longevity; I've picked up on this board that the German sets were made with junky parts; those KLHs, as far as I've been able to tell, have lasted beautifully (KLH was not always known for using good parts either). One of my friends just had one repaired recently, and it's plugging away nicely. Now, is there anything worth listening to on FM? That depends on your taste. The only classical music we're able to get in the SF Bay Area is one station owned by a syndicate based in Utah -- it often plays one movement, then blasts a super-loud commercial, then a different piece, then a different blasted super-loud commercial. In the manner of traditional classical broadcasting, the station often plays spots about how fine and cultural they are, and how fine and cultured you will be if you listen to them (and we wonder why people are turned off to classical music). A public station adds three hours per week (one modern music showcase, and a record collector show). We've got a really good public jazz station, too. That's it: the whole enchilada. I have given you the entire picture of art music broadcasting in the whole San Francisco Bay Area. Bubba Article: 323134 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Keith Park" References: <1127629967.163447.300510@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Nice Silvertone Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 00:51:42 GMT I have one of these that I bought off Mark not long ago. if anyone has an intact dial bezel or peices that I can make a replacement >from Id be interested. Thanks, Keith topnotch@nycap.rr.com > No way that's the original finish, but it looks terrific. > > I lovingly restored a model 4786 a few years ago. See it at: > http://radioatticarchives.com/images/s/Silvertone_4786_Bolyn.jpg > Mine is the somewhat lesser 10 tube version of this series, but the > meaningful parts of the circuits are the same. This is my pride and joy. > This is a very sensitive and powerful design. It needs to be played loud to > be appreciated. > > Phil B > > "Geoff" wrote in message > news:1127629967.163447.300510@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > >I have one of these myself. If the finish is actually original it's in > > beautiful shape. No, it's not mine. I just wanted to point out such a > > nice example to the group. > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6564683272 > > > > Regards, > > Geoff > > > > Article: 323135 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback From: Larry References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:09:10 -0400 "xrongor" wrote in news:dha2mb$ckje$1@news3.infoave.net: > if you ask me, these portable mp3 players are just the latest dick > measuring device for those with cash to burn. > > randy - who still uses cdrw's and burns mp3's onto them for playback > in devices he already owns. > I have no "cash to burn" I assure you. I'm just an electronics technician like many here. You'll never be "rich" doing it. If you've never had the pure pleasure of having your favorite collection of music in your back pocket, you have nothing to measure it with. Hauling around a box of fragile, heat-sensitive CDRs just plain sucks. These little hard drives can take a fall off a step ladder onto a concrete floor. If the player, itself, survives, the drive is fine. I get bored with one CDRs worth of MP3s, even if it's 12 hours of it. I like to shuffle between too many artists and between genres. The Xclef will shuffle anything, even the whole 100GB drive if you like. If you just want to shuffle through 3 genres, let's say, you create a playlist of all three huge directories, maybe 5000 songs in each. Then, shuffle play the playlist and it will hit on all three genres at random. Very pleasurable. And, unlike your CDRWs that take forever to clean then reburn, the only limit to the Xclef is the 480MB/sec limit of the USB2 serial port to simply delete huge directories and put something fresh and different on the big hard drive. Oh, about the money. How much money do you have in radios?...(c; Do you own a TV? Got cable TV? I haven't owned a TV since 1983 and cannot imagine anyone sitting there watching that string of incessant advertising and PAYING FOR IT! That's really stupid. TV and Radio aren't "entertaining" any more....none of it. I'm down to just my cellphone, too. Landline phones are overpriced and unnecessary, now. Neilsen Ratings called me a couple of years ago and asked me what my favorite radio station was. I told them BBC Two, but I liked BBC Four a lot, too. Kind of startled at my answer, I had to tell them how I listened on broadband cable and while she was on the phone I got her all setup listening to BBC on the computer in her cubicle. I bet the broadcasters would have had her fired if they'd caught her....(c; I still like BBC Two and only wish BBC would stream the home TV channels to the net, too! They have some of the finest programmes on the planet! Thank you UK! -- Larry Well, it's 9PM. Time to call David on my cell on free nights/weekends after 9PM from here to Hawaii. Long Distance is another farce you're probably paying for, right? Article: 323136 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Silvertone Phono Info From: lherault@bu.edu References: <11jgvdchq29e251@corp.supernews.com> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 01:18:29 GMT Message-ID: <43389e0b$1_2@newsfeed.slurp.net> If it is what I think it is, the reproducer should swivel so that it can play vertically recorded records like the Pathe. It would have originally come with a bit of extra plumbing to do this, I think, and it would store on a metal fitting. There would also be two holes in the metal plate reading Edison and Pathe for the two different styli needed to play these verticals. With a reproducer rebuild it should be an OK sounding machine. Ron L Article: 323137 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Anyone need a old tube type Ham Amp ?? From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:25:01 -0400 Jeffrey D Angus wrote in news:yf%Ze.1604$556.1353@tornado.socal.rr.com: > Heh, it's not _really_ an amateur radio amplifier. > It's an 11 meter (Citizens Band) amplifier. > > The AM/SSB switch adjusts the biasing on the tubes to change with > dealing from average power (SSB) to (failry) constant power (AM). > > The build quality is probably marginal at best. These were quite > popular (and illegal) through out the 60s and 70s. > > Jeff > > How many sweep tubes does it have? I once saw a CB linear that had a 4 sweep tube preamp driving 16 sweep tube finals in parallel! Way back in some old ham magazine, some ham designed and built a broadband sweep tube linear that had so many sweep tubes in parallel its output impedance was 50 ohms! It didn't need a pi network! Wonder if I got that magazine in Junk Room 3 or 4?? Hmm... If you're a ham and want some CB fun on the road, just use your ham callsign and speak NORMALLY. It'll even quiet Channel 19! "Rubber Duck this is W4CSC, over?" Another thing that's fun is when they ask you for your "handle", tell 'em your name. "My name is Larry. What's yours?" You'd think you just gave away the name of the top CIA operative in Russia! I was traveling with a guy who had CB in his car a few years back out on I- 95 through SC and GA and FL. Some nice lady asked for some directions who was NOT your redneck CB jingleist. I answered her in ENGLISH and gave her the information. We kept talking and soon others riding along I-95 had joined into the conversation as if we were all standing around the office water cooler having a good time. The whole landscape of Channel 19 changed in 20 minutes and followed us all to Florida. Truckers dropped the childish nonsense and took the clothespins off their noses. They don't actually talk "CB" in real life, I don't think. I'm sure we cut a swath for the next few hours and it was amazing how QUIET it got listening to these stupid people speaking NORMALLY on CB radio without sounding like they crawled out of a shack in the woods with an IQ in the teens. Great fun was had by all. The lady put it all together. She said, "Why don't more people act like themselves on CB like this?" Noone could give her an answer...(c; -- Larry "W4CSC 10-7" Article: 323138 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Ron H" References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Subject: Re: FM Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 20:43:47 -0500 Message-ID: <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> Didn't mean to belittle either the KLH or RCA International. Both fine radios...but it's the feel of the thing! They're just not as "warm". Now as for programming, you are correct! I am not too far from the twin cities ( mpls & stp) and until last spring I had two classical stations to choose from then one of them sold out to a "pop" station. I am thinking a 4 element yagi on the tower just might pull in the Chicago area classical stations. If that doesn't work I'll have to resort to XM or Serius... All the hype and legislation over HDTV has missed the point! No matter how good the picture, who cares if all you get is stupid sitcoms and/or sports? Ron H. "CalBubba" wrote in message news:4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com... > Ron H wrote: > > Well in my humble opinion, the Model 8 and even the RCA International have > > that "new age" look. Do you know what I mean? They just don't have the eye > > appeal of a nice table top cathedral. Maybe they remind me of things like > > particle board or plywood vs maple and mahogany. > > > > Not the sort of radio that you want to sit next to and listen to the > > symphony. Does that make sense? or am I out of reality? > > > > Ron H. > > > > Well, it's certainly not deco, but the KLH Model 8 is veneer. Particle > board is acoustically superior to board lumber when it comes to speaker > cabinets and turntable bases. In fact, I once saw plans for a speaker > that used tile sewer pipe for a box -- probably excellent. > > But, what I've forgotten is what the response of the KLH radio is. > William, can you provide it? > > I have a hunch that some of those German Chinesed-cabinet things may > have outperformed the KLHs in frequency range, but I'm not sure how > smooth the response curve would be in the best of them. And then, of > course, is the issue of longevity; I've picked up on this board that the > German sets were made with junky parts; those KLHs, as far as I've been > able to tell, have lasted beautifully (KLH was not always known for > using good parts either). One of my friends just had one repaired > recently, and it's plugging away nicely. > > Now, is there anything worth listening to on FM? > That depends on your taste. The only classical music we're able to get > in the SF Bay Area is one station owned by a syndicate based in Utah -- > it often plays one movement, then blasts a super-loud commercial, then a > different piece, then a different blasted super-loud commercial. In the > manner of traditional classical broadcasting, the station often plays > spots about how fine and cultural they are, and how fine and cultured > you will be if you listen to them (and we wonder why people are turned > off to classical music). A public station adds three hours per week (one > modern music showcase, and a record collector show). > > We've got a really good public jazz station, too. > That's it: the whole enchilada. I have given you the entire picture of > art music broadcasting in the whole San Francisco Bay Area. > > Bubba > x-- 100 Proof News - http://www.100ProofNews.com x-- 30+ Days Binary Retention with High Completion x-- Access to over 1.9 Terabytes per Day - $8.95/Month x-- UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD Article: 323139 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <4338AAB3.6B5F4BF7@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Anyone need a old tube type Ham Amp ?? References: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 02:12:44 GMT Larry wrote: > > I was traveling with a guy who had CB in his car a few years back out on I- > 95 through SC and GA and FL. Some nice lady asked for some directions who > was NOT your redneck CB jingleist. I answered her in ENGLISH and gave her > the information. We kept talking and soon others riding along I-95 had > joined into the conversation as if we were all standing around the office > water cooler having a good time. The whole landscape of Channel 19 changed > in 20 minutes and followed us all to Florida. Truckers dropped the > childish nonsense and took the clothespins off their noses. They don't > actually talk "CB" in real life, I don't think. I'm sure we cut a swath > for the next few hours and it was amazing how QUIET it got listening to > these stupid people speaking NORMALLY on CB radio without sounding like > they crawled out of a shack in the woods with an IQ in the teens. Great > fun was had by all. The lady put it all together. She said, "Why don't > more people act like themselves on CB like this?" Noone could give her an > answer...(c; I gave up on CB radio when I graduated from High school in 1970. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323140 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <4338AA36.DCF53871@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 02:10:40 GMT Larry wrote: > > Well, it's 9PM. Time to call David on my cell on free nights/weekends > after 9PM from here to Hawaii. Long Distance is another farce you're > probably paying for, right? Not me. In fact, you can't even make a long distance call from my land line phone, unless its toll free. No other extras on my line, so the total bill each month is just under $13.00. I have a box full of non registered but working cell phones with good batteries, in case I need to call 911 from the truck. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323141 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Radio Rambler Subject: Re: FM Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 23:25:35 -0400 Message-ID: <3prsj9Fc1g9rU1@individual.net> References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> Ron H wrote: > Were there any good FM radios produced in fine wooden cabinets or did > David Sarnoff stave off the development of FM until the age of wood had > passed? > > Ron H. > first, lets give credit where it is due. it was not sarnoff who invented & developed the conceipt of broadcasting using frequency modulation, it was Major E.H. Armstrong who did the development. Edward also created the yankee network. i have personally had my hands on armstrong FM units that were built with wood cases. i had a meisner FM tuner that was made in the late 40's that used a wood cabinet. when RCA decided to steal armstrongs design, bakelite cabinets were popular. i do have a HUGE RCA tabletop radio that was built in 1957 with a wood cabinet. (this one is american made) i am sure that there are other models that also used wood cabinets -- The Shadow Knows Article: 323142 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:44:59 -0600 Message-ID: References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> based on your lengthy response, i still think you enjoy talking about it more than listenting to it just teasin ya randy Article: 323143 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: LARRY929@webtv.net Subject: Re: OT POST Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 23:01:37 -0500 Message-ID: <20233-4338C421-72@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> References: <1127765139.078859.180740@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Thanksfor the info. Article: 323144 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: Radio interfrence from ........ Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:34:57 -0700 Message-ID: References: On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 00:02:49 -0400, Larry wrote: > Jim Mueller wrote in > news:pan.2005.09.26.02.01.11.722804@nospam.com: > >> Solid state diodes can cause radio interference. > > Hmm....Wonder if I can get away with using this text with the neighbors > next time they start bitching the 1500 watt ham station is tearing up some > consumer piece of crap?.....hmm....(c; If they're just ordinary people they wouldn't understand it. Now if you can turn off the transmitter and the interference is still there you might have a better chance. Or if you can use the transmitter and not have it interfere with any of your stuff . . . -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 323145 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: Zenith 1950's era record/tube radio repair. Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:51:48 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1127494738.664548.176330@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127503146.742721.66560@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127629417.397538.231110@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127713544.762210.56060@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127714469.715327.196720@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 23:01:09 -0700, IsaacW wrote: > I feel foolish. i though it didn't spin but that was a whole nother > record player (newer suitcase version) > > Anyhow this one does spin but it makes this re-occuring sound thats > very undesirable. mabey its a Chunk-chunk-chunk-chunk sound thats about > 1 second each chunk sound. Its like somehings moving back and forth. it > seems to work except that horrible sound. It sounds like you have a flat spot on the idler wheel (the rubber rimmed wheel that drives the turntable). The main argument against that is the slow speed; most idler wheels turn a lot faster than once a second. Flat spots are caused by the wheel being pressed against the motor shaft for long periods of time. Many record players have a "neutral" position on the speed selector to disengage the idler and prevent that. A few do it automatically. Single speed players generally don't have this capability. The cure for a flat spot is a new or rebuilt idler. Once a wheel develops this problem, the rubber is too petrified to work well even if you can somehow make it round again. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 323146 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 22:15:27 -0700 Message-ID: References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> <1127664321.137713.21050@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1127687412.390630.130710@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1127711175.676594.212960@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <43380A3D.D2497A98@earthlink.net> On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 14:47:33 +0000, Michael A. Terrell wrote: > "Jeff, WB8NHV" wrote: >> >> Don't try to run continuity tests on battery tubes using a standard >> ohmmeter. The voltage across the test probes could be high enough to >> pop the filaments before you know what happened. I'd use a tube tester >> with a 1- or 3-volt filament-voltage setting. I've never had the >> misfortune of ruining one- or three-volt, etc. battery radio tubes this >> way (using an ohmmeter to establish filament condition), but I offer >> this advice as a friendly warning. After all, no one likes to see the >> tubes in his/her treasured old battery set (or one he/she is repairing >> for someone else) ruined by accident. >> >> Kind regards, >> >> Jeff (WB8NHV) >> Fairport Harbor, Ohio USA > > > What kind of meter are you using? Most multimeters use a 1.5 volt > battery for the lower resistance ranges and are current limited to > whatever the meter movement needs. It depends on what scale you are using. The meter movement is used directly only on the highest one or two ohms scales. For lower ranges, it is shunted to read higher current through the lower resistance. I have seen meters that can light a flashlight bulb (dimly) on the lowest scale. My Eico 232 VTVM uses a 9.7 Ohm resistor on the RX1 scale. With a 1.5V battery, Ohm's Law says that the short circuit current is 155mA. This still isn't normally a problem since there are very few tubes with filament voltages less than 1.4V. A problem could be present with the few meters that use more than 1.5V on the lowest scale. Many meters also use a higher voltage battery (30V in the Tripplet 630) for the highest ohms range. This shouldn't be a problem in tube circuits either since the current is low. It can damage semiconductors however. For best results, know what your meter does. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 323147 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Matt The Cat" References: <11jgvdchq29e251@corp.supernews.com> <43389e0b$1_2@newsfeed.slurp.net> Subject: Re: Silvertone Phono Info Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 06:50:49 GMT YES, you are correct. It does come with a metal tonearm attachment. The reproducer works fine and the sound is quite good considering. It's in excellent shape and does not need to be rebuilt in the least. I know info on these machines is scarce. The former owner thought that it was from the teens. I guess I'd just like to know if that's accurate? Do you have any idea? So you're saying that this Silvertone can also play edison cylinders? How would I do that? Any help is most appreciated. Thanks so much. Matt wrote in message news:43389e0b$1_2@newsfeed.slurp.net... > If it is what I think it is, the reproducer should swivel so that it can > play vertically recorded records like the Pathe. It would have originally > come with a bit of extra plumbing to do this, I think, and it would store > on > a metal fitting. There would also be two holes in the metal plate reading > Edison and Pathe for the two different styli needed to play these > verticals. > With a reproducer rebuild it should be an OK sounding machine. > > Ron L Article: 323148 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: FM Date: 27 Sep 2005 01:52:04 -0500 Message-ID: <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> Ron H wrote: > Didn't mean to belittle either the KLH or RCA International. Both fine > radios...but it's the feel of the thing! They're just not as "warm". > Hmmm. I don't know the RCA radio of which you speak. Hard to believe that the RCA is as good. I recall the KLH sets I've heard as being a bit overly crisp, now that you mention it. I haven't heard all the models, though. Maybe I'm mixing in a lot of early transistor crossover distortion in my memory. > Now as for programming, you are correct! I am not too far from the twin > cities ( mpls & stp) and until last spring I had two classical stations to > choose from then one of them sold out to a "pop" station. I am thinking a 4 > element yagi on the tower just might pull in the Chicago area classical > stations. If that doesn't work I'll have to resort to XM or Serius... > Ouch. That hurts! A lot. Minneapolis is known to have the highest per-capita spending on the performing arts in the entire USA. And you folks supply public radio with the St. Paul Chamber Orchestra broadcasts (dark here in the SF Bay Area). > All the hype and legislation over HDTV has missed the point! No matter how > good the picture, who cares if all you get is stupid sitcoms and/or sports? > Alas, commercial classical music broadcasting has almost always been done at a financial loss. One problem that I see is that the format has been too limited, and way, way too hoity-toity. Quick death if you want to turn on the young folks to the profound joys of classical music (what I've heard of WFMT doesn't do much for me either -- listen a bit before you hoist up that yagi). The traditional format inspired by WQXR should have never been adopted by any imitator -- for one thing, it's lost money for decades for The New York Times! Yet, it's been the standard -- a winner if you want to go bankrupt. It works in Boston, where people are into upper-class pretentions at kultcha. Please you Boston folks, don't get offended; Boston also has lots of really good music, too, but WCRB was sure a bore when I heard it; the classical Top 40 format is about as appealing as it is in popular music -- it gets boring real fast, even more boring when re-playedd years later. If someone asks me to recommend an FM tuner, I point them to Radio Shack and hold my nose... Bubba-of-The West Article: 323149 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jon" References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> Subject: Re: FM Message-ID: <%w8_e.8883$7b6.6426@twister.nyroc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:45:31 GMT Sure is, but it is made of wood. Jon "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:YqudnSubYvioMKXeRVn-rQ@comcast.com... > ah, but that is really a German made set!!! > Mark > > "Jon" wrote in message > news:Q5%Ze.8037$7b6.7085@twister.nyroc.rr.com... >> My RCA International console is wooden and has FM. >> >> -- >> Jon Scaptura >> Endicott, NY >> >> See my antique radios here: >> http://www.scaptura.com/radio/gallery/Antique_radios >> >> "Ron H" wrote in message >> news:4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com... >> > Were there any good FM radios produced in fine wooden cabinets or did >> > David >> > Sarnoff stave off the development of FM until the age of wood had > passed? >> > >> > Ron H. >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > x-- 100 Proof News - http://www.100ProofNews.com >> > x-- 30+ Days Binary Retention with High Completion >> > x-- Access to over 1.9 Terabytes per Day - $8.95/Month >> > x-- UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD >> > >> >> >> > > > Article: 323150 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jim Barnard" Subject: Heathkit SW-7800 Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 05:55:37 -0400 Message-ID: I am looking for the schematic for this radio in a size large enough to be legible. Anyone that can provide a copy, please contact me directly jbarnard@ftc-i.net. Thanks, Jim Article: 323151 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Anyone need a old tube type Ham Amp ?? From: Larry References: <4338AAB3.6B5F4BF7@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:04:26 -0400 "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in news:4338AAB3.6B5F4BF7@earthlink.net: > I gave up on CB radio when I graduated from High school in 1970. > > -- > ? > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida > > Aw, C'mon Michael! CB is still a lot of fun on a trip. I've been a CBer since I was a ham. FCC just screwed up giving them the 11 meter ham band, that's all, more bureaucratic bungling-as-usual. Class A CB on 460Mhz was/is very useful. My first CB call started with 20W in upstate NY. It was a Knight Kit that had a 6AW8? transmitter...something like that. Regenerative receiver and a vertical dipole up 60' between two 2X4s nailed to a big pine tree sticking out sideways. When CB came on there was no rules about working DX. I used to chat with 6W3202, a call I can never seem to forget. He was a Smokey Mountains National Park ranger who used to go up on Clingman's Dome (mountain top) and work DX. Great fun on the little regen transceiver with the tape recorder mic. There was a lever knob on a momentary-contact rotary switch on the front of the Bud box the kit was built into. I remember having to wind my own coils on the kit's forms. Knight Kit CB-1 I think its number was. Rich folks could afford Globe and Gonset and Raytheon radios with more than one channel....(c; You had to be 18 to hold a CB license. I was 13 or 14, I forget. My mother was terrified I would be drafted by the Army when that license came. I lied about my age...(c; Heathkit came out with this black leatherette box with a chrome grillwork in the front. It had one big, black knob in the front that was the volume control. The speaker was also the mic. A little red button on the side keyed its tiny transmitter, something like 100mw. That was my first CB walkie talkie and every kid wanted one. I used to be able to build one in about an hour from scratch without the instructions after the first 10 or so...like the HW-12, 22, 32 and HW-18 for Civil Air Patrol on 4 Mhz USB. I built hundreds of Heathkits for a lot of people in high school. -- Larry I bought two 5W CB walkies, all 40 channels, Radio Shack TRC-222 from the thrift shop for $8. One had a bad battery jack. The other one worked fine. Has an RCA antenna jack on the side for your 108" stainless whip...(c; Article: 323152 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback From: Larry References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:07:22 -0400 Andy Cuffe wrote in news:c1jhj1h9552u6bgk4sjarsue0kn0u7eou9@4ax.com: > I read somewhere that there are plans for streaming BBC TV. They may > try to block IP addresses outside the UK though. I think it will > That won't be much of a net problem. There are several UK proxy engines you could connect to it to forward the video data anywhere in the world. Copyrights are the problem......always. BBC sure gets around a lot of this problem being a government entity... -- Larry Article: 323153 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: OT MP3 player was Re: I just left negative feedback From: Larry References: <43365264$0$245$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43372eb3$0$226$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433829ca$0$173$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43389d60$0$231$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:08:08 -0400 CalBubba wrote in news:43389d60$0$231$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com: > MP3 players on eBay I think that pretty much says it all.....(c; -- Larry Article: 323154 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Radio interfrence from ........ From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 08:10:12 -0400 Jim Mueller wrote in news:pan.2005.09.27.04.34.56.993770@nospam.com: > If they're just ordinary people they wouldn't understand it. Now > if you can turn off the transmitter and the interference is still > there you might have a better chance. Or if you can use the > transmitter and not have it interfere with any of your stuff . . . > > - You don't NEED a transmitter to be the cause of every electrical/electronic failure within 5 miles. All you need to do is put up a ham antenna. No license, transmitter or emission is required. You're IT!...(c; I've been IT since I was 10...even before my license came at 11. -- Larry Article: 323155 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:29:17 GMT The simplest protection I know of - and the one I use - is a 63 mA fast-blow fuse in the B supply line. The most delicate tubes I work with are the '99's (62 mA filament), so this fusing is adequate for protecting them, as well as any other battery tubes with similar or greater filament current draw. The 63 mA fuses appear to be the lowest current fast-blow type commonly available. Obviously, if you are using tubes with filament currents even lower than 1/8 Amp, you can't rely on this simple method. DD "Bill" wrote in message news:3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET... > I haven't managed to do it yet... but this evening I caught myself in > the process of inadvertently connecting a 90v B battery to my 1.5v > filaments on the terminal strip in back of the radio. > > It got me wondering. Whats a good way to prevent burning out the tube > filaments if a guy were to make this mistake? >... Article: 323156 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Henry Kolesnik" Subject: Hey Pete_O HP 260A ?? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 15:29:19 GMT Pete A while ago you mentioned that you had diag for the using a fet in the Q meter. Have you ever found your notes? Some of us could really use it. tnx -- 73 Hank WD5JFR Article: 323157 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Mike Schultz" References: Subject: Re: What is a Sylvania 6BQ5-P Tube ? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 15:53:44 GMT I have some Sylvania 6BQ5s which are marked "Export" on the cartons, but there is nothing unusual on the tubes. Why they are marked like that, I haven't a clue. Could the "P" on your tubes be the "p" in "Export"? -- Mike Schultz "Rick Yerke" wrote in message news:iO6dncSLKKXWAqXeRVn-tw@adelphia.com... >I have four of these tubes and they are all marked 6BQ5-P on the box and >also > on the tube.They look like normal 6BQ5 tubes,maybe the P stands for > Premium i > don`t really know. Does anybody know? Thanks Rick > > > ĐĎॹá˙ý˙˙˙ţ˙˙˙ţ˙˙˙zѤXTod(" zѤ Article: 323158 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes Message-ID: <8vcZe.81697$DW1.44479@fed1read06> Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2005 09:27:30 -0400 "Bill" wrote in message news:3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET... > I haven't managed to do it yet... but this evening I caught myself in > the process of inadvertently connecting a 90v B battery to my 1.5v > filaments on the terminal strip in back of the radio. > > It got me wondering. Whats a good way to prevent burning out the tube > filaments if a guy were to make this mistake? I'm thinking a zener to > ground, or better still three cheap 1N4007s and a fast blow fuse inline, > suitable to the filament draw. > The diodes should work, BUT, unless you are using Zeners, you'd best use two strings of regular diodes (protecting both polarities); just in case you reverse the B+ on filaments by accident! Pete Article: 323159 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: FM Date: 27 Sep 2005 11:45:02 -0500 Message-ID: <43397670$0$174$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <43395025.C2F64E7B@earthlink.net> Michael A. Terrell wrote: > CalBubba wrote: > >>Ron H wrote: >> >>>Didn't mean to belittle either the KLH or RCA International. Both fine >>>radios...but it's the feel of the thing! They're just not as "warm". >>> >> >>Hmmm. I don't know the RCA radio of which you speak. Hard to believe >>that the RCA is as good. I recall the KLH sets I've heard as being a bit >>overly crisp, now that you mention it. I haven't heard all the models, >>though. Maybe I'm mixing in a lot of early transistor crossover >>distortion in my memory. >> >> >>>Now as for programming, you are correct! I am not too far from the twin >>>cities ( mpls & stp) and until last spring I had two classical stations to >>>choose from then one of them sold out to a "pop" station. I am thinking a 4 >>>element yagi on the tower just might pull in the Chicago area classical >>>stations. If that doesn't work I'll have to resort to XM or Serius... >>> >> >>Ouch. That hurts! >>A lot. >> >>Minneapolis is known to have the highest per-capita spending on the >>performing arts in the entire USA. And you folks supply public radio >>with the St. Paul Chamber Orchestra broadcasts (dark here in the SF Bay >>Area). >> >> > All the hype and legislation over HDTV has missed the point! No >>matter how >> > good the picture, who cares if all you get is stupid sitcoms and/or >>sports? >> > >> >>Alas, commercial classical music broadcasting has almost always been >>done at a financial loss. One problem that I see is that the format has >>been too limited, and way, way too hoity-toity. Quick death if you want >>to turn on the young folks to the profound joys of classical music (what >>I've heard of WFMT doesn't do much for me either -- listen a bit before >>you hoist up that yagi). >> >>The traditional format inspired by WQXR should have never been adopted >>by any imitator -- for one thing, it's lost money for decades for The >>New York Times! Yet, it's been the standard -- a winner if you want to >>go bankrupt. >> >>It works in Boston, where people are into upper-class pretentions at >>kultcha. Please you Boston folks, don't get offended; Boston also has >>lots of really good music, too, but WCRB was sure a bore when I heard >>it; the classical Top 40 format is about as appealing as it is in >>popular music -- it gets boring real fast, even more boring when >>re-playedd years later. >> >>If someone asks me to recommend an FM tuner, I point them to Radio Shack >>and hold my nose... >> >>Bubba-of-The West > > > > When I worked for United Video Cablevision in the early '80s our > microwave division was uplinking WGN on C-band. WFMT was carried as a > subcarrier on the same transponder for CATV companies to use as > background music on their graphics channels. I was told that a lot of > people with tunable or programmable audio tuning would listen to the > subcarrier through a separate audio amp to improve the audio quality. > There was also (and still?) the "WFMT Network." My aunt in Charleston, W Va, listened to it over cable as an ordinary FM signal. For them that doesn't know, WFMT was a commercial classical music station in Chicago. It is now a public station with the same format, but also Studs Terkel (the god of radio interviewing). I don't know the details. But I can only tolerate "Pledger Plays the Classics" for a few minutes before I'm running for the kitchen knives. Son-of-Bubba Article: 323160 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "40zeffer" Subject: trade radios for lz pts Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 13:28:55 +0200 Message-ID: <8f0651c0af33de893b1488192a8bc6c8@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> hi, anyone here like radios and lincolns...i need car parts, now more than radios....trade ?? jeff booth sylvania oh Article: 323161 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jason M" Subject: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 18:00:38 GMT Hi all. I'm working on an on Crosley cathedral, model 158 and I don't have any output. I've changed all the capacitors in it, traced almost all the wires, changed a two part resistor that was open, tested the speaker and transformers for opens, and tested for voltages. All I get out of it is a very slight hum and scratch that goes up with the tone control, but is barely audible. Anyway, on Rider 3-31 pertaining to this radio there is a change on the schematic, parts 53 and 54 were added to replace 29. When I replaced parts I noticed the capacitor 54 isn't going to the chassis leg of the filament on the 56 tube (part 40). Instead it's going to the Anode (plate) on the 56 tube. Any other ideas what might be wrong with this? Oh, I've also swapped some tubes out with no effect. Thanks for the help. Article: 323162 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jason M" References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:31:23 GMT Guess I should have posted my answer on the newsgroup. Wrong button. I can dig out a signal generator that should work. Don't have a signal tracer that I know of. Here's a little more information. I don't really notice any noise by touching the three tube caps or the antenna screw either. Voltages read a little higher than what Rider manual says.....290 volt instead of 250 and stuff like that. I think I was told before that's OK because I'm using a modern meter with a higher internal resistance. Highest voltage variance was on the 57's bias voltage, it was up at 11 volts instead of 6. "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Quick question before anything else: Do you have a signal tracer or > signal generator? > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA > Article: 323163 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <4339A4CB.68687A57@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Hey Pete_O HP 260A ?? References: <9e76e852eeaa9889550228d3c5c380fe@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 20:00:31 GMT Pete_O wrote: > > A while ago you mentioned that you had diag for the using a fet in the Q > meter. Have you ever found your notes? Some of us could really use it. > tnx > 73 > Hank WD5JFR > > YES, I did find it! I've too busy winterizing to draw it out and post it. > Unless someone can tell me how to post a JPG or WORD DOC, I will be > directing those interested to my email and I will send it out to anyone > interested. Parts needed are: 2n5245 FET, resistors (1/2w fine) 170K, > 22K, 12K; and caps 0.02mfd and 6.8uF/20v. > > Give me another day to draw it. -Pete AI2V Send it to me and I'll stick it on one of my websites for you, and give you credit for the circuit. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323164 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Pete_O" Subject: Re: Hey Pete_O HP 260A ?? Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 17:02:10 +0200 Message-ID: References: <9e76e852eeaa9889550228d3c5c380fe@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> <4339A4CB.68687A57@earthlink.net> YES, I did find it! I've too busy winterizing to draw it out and post it. > Unless someone can tell me how to post a JPG or WORD DOC, I will be > directing those interested to my email and I will send it out to anyone > interested. Parts needed are: 2n5245 FET, resistors (1/2w fine) 170K, > 22K, 12K; and caps 0.02mfd and 6.8uF/20v.> > Give me another day to draw it. -Pete AI2V Send it to me and I'll stick it on one of my websites for you, and give you credit for the circuit. Michael A. Terrell Great idea, Mike. I've already made my document; I will announce it here with my commercial email address being the source; you can take it from there and post it where ever you like. -Pete O Article: 323165 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:14:21 GMT "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > > OK... you want to try to inject a signal at various points down the > line from the antenna through the audio side. RF on the RF stages, > AF > on the audio stage. If you get any noise at the speaker, then it > stops, > that is where the problem lies. > If you're listening for sound at the speaker, don't you want to start >from the audio end and go towards the antenna end to see where the sound disappears? jim menning Article: 323166 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1127846775.781083.12500@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: AM transmitter with a little more power Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 22:05:29 GMT I read through all that and found the basic legal parameters of an AM band transmitter. Limitations specify the power limit at 100 milliwatts, antenna length limited to 3 meters, and the antenna must be permanently connected to the transmitter, without removable connectors. Naturally it must be set to a frequency that does not interfere with local broadcast stations. However it also provides a chart showing maximum field strength, and this is something that can bring up questions. If I build the outdoor antenna for the AMT-3000, will signal strength still fall within these specs? As it is with me, my AMT-3000 gives me decent reception anywhere in the house, but not in the garage or in the yard. What's even stranger are the facts that I cannot receive it with my car radio parked in the garage, which is on the other side of the wall from the transmitter, and I also noticed I cannot pick it up easily with a portable radio, while table radios and the home stereo pick it up fine -- on the other side of the house. I think a good reason for this is that these radios plug into the wall, and have a ground connection that is physically attached to the ground lead of the transmitter. Portable radios depend on the antenna, and most of the radiation seems to be coming through the ground wire. Someday when I have the time, I would like to check the alignment of the AMT-3000 to ensure it's putting out all the signal strength it can. I too would like to provide signal to a parking lot or large property, or even to neighbors within a block or so. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Phil Nelson" wrote in message news:y5qdnY8FFP1TLaTeRVn-ow@giganews.com... >> That might be a little risky with the FCC. > > The FCC limits the power of an unlicensed transmitter to -- more or > less -- the area of your house or a small yard. Penalties for violating > the rules are stiff. > > Here is 47 CFR Part 15, courtesy of Ramsey Electronics (which sells > transmitter kits). > > http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/downloads/47cfr15.pdf > > If you can wade through the technical and legal doublespeak, I believe the > governing rule is in there somewhere. Your unlicensed transmitter is an > "intentional radiator," if I recall correctly from the last time I tried > to read this stuff. > > Regards, > > Phil Nelson > Phil's Old Radios > http://antiqueradio.org/index.html > > Article: 323167 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Ron H" References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Subject: Re: FM Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 17:46:13 -0500 Message-ID: <4339c69f$1_11@Output.100ProofNews.com> WCAL in Northfield sold out Phil. I guess the college decided to get out of the business. Minnesota Public Radio MPR bought it but changed the format. Ron H. "Phil Nelson" wrote in message news:AMGdnQ6Ynr--F6TenZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@giganews.com... > >> cities ( mpls & stp) and until last spring I had two classical stations > >> to > >> choose from then one of them sold out to a "pop" station. > > Which one sold out? I lived in the Twin Cities for many years. > > Here in the Seattle area we have a commercial classical FM station, KING-FM, > 98.1. I believe it's owned by a non-profit which supports local music > organizations. They run commercials, anyhow. You can listen to the station > over the Internet 24/7. > > http://www.king.org/ > > Regards, > > Phil Nelson > Phil's Old Radios > http://antiqueradio.org/index.html > > x-- 100 Proof News - http://www.100ProofNews.com x-- 30+ Days Binary Retention with High Completion x-- Access to over 1.9 Terabytes per Day - $8.95/Month x-- UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD Article: 323168 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Ron H" References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <3prsj9Fc1g9rU1@individual.net> Subject: Re: FM Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 17:50:35 -0500 Message-ID: <4339c7a7_10@Output.100ProofNews.com> You are of course absolutely correct. As I recall, Sarnoff was actually not a big advocate of FM. May have delayed it's popularity by not endorsing it. He insisted that AM was the way to go. It may have been because of the high frequency and limited range. Ron H. "Radio Rambler" wrote in message news:3prsj9Fc1g9rU1@individual.net... > Ron H wrote: > > > Were there any good FM radios produced in fine wooden cabinets or did > > David Sarnoff stave off the development of FM until the age of wood had > > passed? > > > > Ron H. > > > first, lets give credit where it is due. it was not sarnoff who invented & > developed the conceipt of broadcasting using frequency modulation, it was > Major E.H. Armstrong who did the development. Edward also created the > yankee network. > i have personally had my hands on armstrong FM units that were built with > wood cases. i had a meisner FM tuner that was made in the late 40's that > used a wood cabinet. > when RCA decided to steal armstrongs design, bakelite cabinets were popular. > i do have a HUGE RCA tabletop radio that was built in 1957 with a wood > cabinet. (this one is american made) i am sure that there are other models > that also used wood cabinets > -- > The Shadow Knows x-- 100 Proof News - http://www.100ProofNews.com x-- 30+ Days Binary Retention with High Completion x-- Access to over 1.9 Terabytes per Day - $8.95/Month x-- UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD Article: 323169 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Ron H" References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1127841605.735791.93620@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: FM Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 17:55:21 -0500 Message-ID: <4339c8cb_10@Output.100ProofNews.com> Nice site! I connected and the very first thing I heard was a plea for money!!! Fact of life I guess! Ron H. wrote in message news:1127841605.735791.93620@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > Check out http://www.theclassicalstation.org/ for classical music 24/7 > via satellite or internet streaming. (or via FM in North Carolina) > x-- 100 Proof News - http://www.100ProofNews.com x-- 30+ Days Binary Retention with High Completion x-- Access to over 1.9 Terabytes per Day - $8.95/Month x-- UNLIMITED DOWNLOAD Article: 323170 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <1127846775.781083.12500@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: AM transmitter with a little more power Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:22:13 -0400 The radiation efficiency will be best at the highest possible frequency. In other words: you will get out much further at 1600 kHz vs. 540 kHz with a three meter antenna.... Pete Article: 323171 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Martin Crossley" References: <1127858650.432155.89390@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Tesla Talisman chassis needed. Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 00:44:15 +0100 Message-ID: <4339da3e$0$15034$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net> tschw10117@aol.com wrote: > Need a chassis for a 308U, but a 306U or 307U would work as well. Will > need dial glass preferably, back, and knobs. > > Lemme know what you have, I have trading material. > > Terry. BTW, The 306U's shafts are too short to fit a 308U case, not sure about the 307U's, though. Article: 323172 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: What is a Sylvania 6BQ5-P Tube ? From: Darrell References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 00:12:43 GMT The "P" indicates that it was part of a factory matched pair. I remember Sylvania hyping this in the late 60's or early 70's in Popular Electronics and Electronics Illustrated. Regards, Darrell Article: 323173 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jason M" References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 00:17:45 GMT Thanks again for the help. I'll do as much as I can figure out on this but I dont know all your abbreviations (SWAG, OPT?) I guess I should have said this, but the radio wasn't working when I got it. When I got it I was told it's probably something easy like a tube, all the tubes light up and it hums like it wants to work. Well, it hums a bit less now that all the capacitors have been changed. The hum is very quiet and goes from almost non existant to barely audible with the scratchy tone control (that says something right there doesn't it, since I can change volume on the hum and hear the scratchy control?). Volume control seems to make no difference on the radio. I went and found a small transistor radio and did like you said. I did get a very quiet whistle out of the Crosley, that pretty much quiets the static on the transistor radio. It seems to move pretty consistently at 15Khz over the Crosley's scale on the transistor radio (it is tuneable). Some of the list of things to do I think I can eliminate. I've already tested the volume and tone control switch with my meter and they appear to work, and there isn't a band switch (AM only). I've looked pretty hard at the connections and cant see anything shorted. I believe I have everything hooked up like it was when I got it........but it didn't work when I got it either. That's what led me to my originally asking if the schematic is wrong. This radio has a .001 Mfd capacitor (part 54) connected to the plate side of the second 56 tube (the A.F. Amplifier). The schematic in the Rider manual shows that connected to the chassis side of the filament power. There still is a chassis connection there, it's just in between parts 53 and 54 on a IF tranformer(?). I dont' know enough about fixing these to know what difference that would make, but my tone control is after that spot in the radio and seems to be working a little. The small can mounted trimmer caps are a bit different on this radio. Instead of having them on the top of the radio there are five cans riveted under the chassis, and three of those have wires fed over to the adjustments that can be accessed through the side of the chassis. On the schematics there is a P C and S at the top of the drawing and I think they represent these cans. Do I need to unsolder all the connections on these to test them for shorts or opens? So far I just took my meter and found across the cans I normally have between 4 and 100 ohms between opposing terminals, but I didn't want to damage them so I didn't take them out of the circuit. I'll disconnect speaker wires later and make sure there's continuity there. This radio has four wires up to the speaker, they sent a yellow and a white (one to the coil and one to the transformer) from the same spot in the radio. There is also a green and black wire like shown on the shematic, so it should be easy to seperate the coils and ohm them out. Any place you know of where I could read instructions on using the signal generator in an old radio? I'd like to read how I'm supposed to be using it before I try to blow something up. Thanks again for the help. Jason "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > OK... you want to try to inject a signal at various points down the > line from the antenna through the audio side. RF on the RF stages, AF > on the audio stage. If you get any noise at the speaker, then it stops, > that is where the problem lies. > Article: 323174 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve" References: <8f0651c0af33de893b1488192a8bc6c8@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Subject: Re: trade radios for lz pts Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 01:08:42 GMT Yup, I've got a cherry '64 Lincoln. Bought a parts car a few years ago that I stripped. From your address, I'll guess you have a 1940 Zepher. I have the gauges for your car. Steve 40zeffer wrote in message news:8f0651c0af33de893b1488192a8bc6c8@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com... > hi, anyone here like radios and lincolns...i need > car parts, now more than radios....trade ?? > jeff booth > sylvania oh > Article: 323175 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Silvertone Phono Info From: lherault@bu.edu References: <11jgvdchq29e251@corp.supernews.com> <43389e0b$1_2@newsfeed.slurp.net> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 02:42:20 GMT Message-ID: <433a0331_1@newsfeed.slurp.net> Ah, no, not cylinders. In theory when the reproducer is turned, it should be able to play any hill and dale recording such as the Pathe and Edison Diamond Discs. The latter however is really designed to be played only on an Edison Diamond Disc machine. The DD machine fed the arm and diamond stylus across the record with a feed screw/gear arrangement. The grooves are shallow and the land thin. They are not designed to propel a tone arm and stylus. Consequently playing Diamond Discs on non-Edison machines is not recommended. Early Pathe disks (not the later Actuelles) were also hill and dale records but have to be played with a spherical sapphire stylus. In a pinch you probably could play one with the tip of a cleaned out ball point pen though. If you open up the case of your machine, look carefully inside, especially in grease globs and in the corners and edges to see if any of the origina special styli have fallen inside. Ron L Article: 323176 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Silvertone Phono Info From: lherault@bu.edu References: <11jgvdchq29e251@corp.supernews.com> <43389e0b$1_2@newsfeed.slurp.net> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 02:44:44 GMT Message-ID: <433a03c1_5@newsfeed.slurp.net> I am not sure of the exact age but the teens is a pretty safe guess. As to reproducer condition, the rubber gaskets may look good but if they are hard, they should be replaced. Ron L Article: 323177 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Old Radios Subject: Anyone have a spare piece of phenoic laying around? Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:19:06 -0500 Message-ID: Hi, all. I'm trying to locate a piece of black 1/8" phenolic, about 15" long and 5" wide. Just wondering if anyone had a scrap they'd consider getting rid of. If so, fire me off an email at: mjmalin(at)wisc(dot)edu. Thanks, guys. Mark. Article: 323178 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Tom Mills" Subject: AC capacitor question Message-ID: Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 23:15:39 -0400 How are dry dielectric AC capacitors rated? I have used 250 VAC rated caps on DC voltage as high as 400v and they seem to work ok. The question is what is the true rating? Are they designed for peak, or peak to peak voltage? Article: 323179 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: gary Subject: FADA 795 Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 03:32:55 GMT Hello everyone, I recently acquired this very nice FADA radio but, the dial scale is missing. Does anyone know where I could find one, other than another 795? Does anyone make replacements? Thanks, Gary Article: 323180 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 23:56:05 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: AC capacitor question References: Message-ID: <2be1f$433a1456$4232bd87$17399@COQUI.NET> Tom Mills wrote: > How are dry dielectric AC capacitors rated? I have used 250 VAC rated caps > on DC voltage as high as 400v and they seem to work ok. The question is > what is the true rating? Are they designed for peak, or peak to peak > voltage? > I believe an AC rating on a cap would be peak-to-peak. -Bill Article: 323181 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 00:02:05 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: FADA 795 References: Message-ID: <478df$433a15be$4232bd87$17733@COQUI.NET> gary wrote: > Hello everyone, > I recently acquired this very nice FADA radio but, the dial scale is > missing. Does anyone know where I could find one, other than another > 795? Does anyone make replacements? Thanks, Gary > If its printed glass try radiodaze.com If its plastic or printed paper try RockSea Enterprises. GL, Bill Article: 323182 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Matt The Cat" References: <11jgvdchq29e251@corp.supernews.com> <43389e0b$1_2@newsfeed.slurp.net> <433a03c1_5@newsfeed.slurp.net> Subject: Re: Silvertone Phono Info Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 04:05:52 GMT Great advice, Ron. You've been the biggest help. Thanks so much. Matt wrote in message news:433a03c1_5@newsfeed.slurp.net... >I am not sure of the exact age but the teens is a pretty safe guess. > > As to reproducer condition, the rubber gaskets may look good but if they > are > hard, they should be replaced. > > Ron L Article: 323183 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 04:43:55 GMT Jason, I'm a relative newby here, but the following ought to work. I'm sure the regulars here will tell you there are better ways to troubleshoot, and I won't argue that, but if you want to use what you have on hand, you can. Find an earphone that fits the transistor radio you have. Tap into the earphone cord, leaving the earphone connected, and splice wires to both conductors in the cord. Equip one with an alligator clip, and clip it to the chassis of your Crosley. Be careful if it is a hot-chassis set! Solder a .01 uF capacitor to the other wire, and another lead to the other end of the cap, and put a test probe on the end of the lead. Turn on the transistor radio, tune in a station so you can hear it coming out of the earphone, and you should have an audio source with a good fraction of a volt to inject into your radio under test. With the Crosley powered up, and the "ground" clip lead attached to its chassis apply the test probe to the grid pin of the final audio tube. If you hear the program over the Crosley's speaker, then it would tell me that the output tube and output transformer are working, at least to some extent. If you hear nothing, then either or both could be suspect. If you do hear the program, move your test probe back along the signal path one component at a time, until you make a step that loses the signal. When that happens, it means the component you just stepped over is faulty, or has a short to ground on its upstream side. For example, if the output tube is R-C coupled to the plate of the preceding tube, you will have a capacitor running from the control grid pin of the output tube to the plate of the detector or audio amplifier stage. If you get sound from the speaker when injecting signal on the grid end of that cap, and none when injecting at the plate of the previous tube, it would indicate that the coupling cap is open, or else the plate resistor for the previous tube has drifted waay low. I'd be looking real close at that volume control. Try applying your signal injector at the wiper (generally the middle terminal) and then at the "high" end. See what happens. Remember that you have potentially lethal voltages inside that set. If you build that home-brew signal injector, do a careful job, so that it doesn't become a shock hazard or a potential short to ground that could smoke something in the radio under test. Have fun, be safe. Gordon Richmond Article: 323184 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jason M" References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 07:00:52 GMT Thanks for the information Gordon. I'm going to set up a earphone tester sometime tomorrow. I did find my working signal generator though and would like to know how I'm supposed to use it. Do I just clip the ground lead on my radio chassis and the other lead to the grid of each tube and work my way through the radio? That's something I didnt' want to just do without asking someone, incase the two non polarized electric items don't like each other. I turned both the radio and signal generator on (not touching each other) and there was 2.5 volts AC difference between chassis on the radio and the ground lead on the signal generator's A/F out. I thought it would be helpful to figure out how to use the signal generator since it also has an R/F out. Do I need to put a capacitor on my test lead for the signal generator to keep from frying something? Jason "Gordon Richmond" wrote in message news:s16kj1lttvlq0l8g4bko38nhhti3fgfbku@4ax.com... > Jason, > > I'm a relative newby here, but the following ought to work. I'm sure > the regulars here will tell you there are better ways to troubleshoot, > and I won't argue that, but if you want to use what you have on hand, > you can. > > Find an earphone that fits the transistor radio you have. Tap into the > earphone cord, leaving the earphone connected, and splice wires to > both conductors in the cord. Equip one with an alligator clip, and > clip it to the chassis of your Crosley. Be careful if it is a > hot-chassis set! Solder a .01 uF capacitor to the other wire, and > another lead to the other end of the cap, and put a test probe on the > end of the lead. > > Have fun, be safe. > > Gordon Richmond Article: 323185 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:50:06 GMT Jason, Not owning a signal generator myself, I hesitate to answer, but if it has it's original test lead set, I expect it would have a capacitor built into the the probe for DC isolation, unless perhaps the output is capacitor-isolated in the generator itself. Consult the manual! If in doubt, you could always use an extra capacitor, say a 600 volt rating. Might degrade the signal from the generator a bit, but you should avoid any smoke-releasing events. The rig I previously described is basically just a crude way of getting a known-good audio signal into the audio stages of the radio under test. It's basically a yes/no test, too. Either the signal can pass through from a given test point or it can't. Not too much can be learned about the gain or distortion level of the amp, but all we are trying to do is find the point where the signal path is broken. You used to be able to buy purpose-made signal injectors; maybe you still can, and do-it-yourself plans for such appeared from time to time in the electronics magazines. I seem to remember seeing an article on turning an All American 5 radio chassis into a multi-purpose test set; I'll have to root through the old magazines and find it. I actually have a spare AA5 chassis I could put to that use. I have a bid in on a signal generator at that evil auction site; we'll have to see how it works out. As far as your question about the possibly mis-wired capacitor goes, I would guess that you possibly could shunt most of the signal to ground, say if you had a cap running from the plate of the first audio stage to ground, but some signal should still get through, although it might be weak and muffled-sounding. It really sounds to me that in this case, some component in the signal path is either open or shorted to ground. Does the Crosley use R-C coupling in the audio stages, or does it use interstage transformers? I've mostly worked on later sets with R-C coupling, but many of the folks here will tell you that interstage transformers can often go bad. You can at least check them for open windings with an ohmmeter; set unplugged of course. Gordon Richmond Article: 323186 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: OT: this is just way too funny Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 06:14:21 -0600 Message-ID: i especially like the added 'disclaimer' http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6211701827 randy Article: 323187 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Henry Kolesnik" References: <9e76e852eeaa9889550228d3c5c380fe@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> <4339A4CB.68687A57@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Hey Pete_O HP 260A ?? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 13:06:53 GMT Hey Pete Thanks for taking the time to help those of us who can't help themselves. Without the Internet and these groups I'd be much more in the dark. My email address is not encoded. -- 73 Hank WD5JFR "Pete_O" wrote in message news:c8b97989681604589283ed1736f2cb3d@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com... > YES, I did find it! I've too busy winterizing to draw it out and post > it. >> Unless someone can tell me how to post a JPG or WORD DOC, I will be >> directing those interested to my email and I will send it out to anyone >> interested. Parts needed are: 2n5245 FET, resistors (1/2w fine) 170K, >> 22K, 12K; and caps 0.02mfd and 6.8uF/20v.> >> Give me another day to draw it. -Pete AI2V > > Send it to me and I'll stick it on one of my websites for you, and give > you credit for the circuit. Michael A. Terrell > > Great idea, Mike. I've already made my document; I will announce it here > with my commercial email address being the source; you can take it from > there and post it where ever you like. -Pete O > > Article: 323188 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: Subject: Re: this is just way too funny Message-ID: <1127917969.597fc9effff1d586cdf23f900ae07305@teranews> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:32:37 -0500 Eww. The question, Randy, is what were *you* searching on to find that? ;-) "xrongor" wrote in message news:dhe1eo$fj02$1@news3.infoave.net... > i especially like the added 'disclaimer' > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6211701827 > > randy > > Article: 323189 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1127888354.449330.84440@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Advice on Predicta Pedestal PCB Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 14:52:00 GMT Good luck with your restoration . . . Personally, with all the recent styles for computer cases that have come out lately, I'd like to have a PC on my desk that's styled to look like a Predicta! It'll certainly match the rest of the shop decor. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Geoff" wrote in message news:1127888354.449330.84440@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > Over the next few months I am going to refurbish a Predicta Pedestal. > I've restored about a couple dozen pre-WW2 radios but the Predicta > will be my first television. I know, I know... the Predicta is > probably the most difficult one to start with but I don't plan on > collecting vintage TV's the way I collect radios. I'm really only > interested in a Predicta. My original plan was to first purchase an > old Heathkit B&W set on eBay and rebuild it using the manuals. But the > Heathkit TV's seem few and far between and when they do come up they > either sell for more than I am willing to pay or shipping costs exceed > the value of the set. I've read several basic books on vintage > television repair from the late 1950's and early 60's and have read > Phil's Pedestal restoration article more times than I can remember. > I will be working in my spare time and hope to have the chassis > completed by Christmas. > > I have removed the chassis, taking detailed notes of what I have seen > before, during, and after removal. After reading past Topics on the > Predicta from this newsgroup and reading Phil's site my plan is to > totally rebuild the PCB with new resistors and capacitors, regardless > of whether they are in spec or not. It looks like taking this out is > going to be a major job and I only want to do it once. > > My questions are about resistor and capacitor types. I plan on using > Orange Drops for the capacitors but am unsure what type of resistors I > should use. It looks like the originals are carbon comps. Are there > certain types of resistors that work better than others in this > television (i.e. carbon film instead of metal film)? Are there certain > types of resistors I should avoid? Is my choice of Orange Drops for > capacitors a good one or should I use Mylars (or avoid Mylars)? > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > Regards, > Geoff > Riverside, CA > Article: 323190 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Pete_O" Subject: BOONTON RADIO Q METER TUBE-FET REPLACEMENT Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:23:25 +0200 Message-ID: <464b11a707cc791fe1973034919a2e9a@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Since I have no way to post this, I have created a WORD document with all the info to replace the Boonton Radio 535A/B (RCA 1659)tube in the 160A and 260A Q meters. I developed this circuit as the production engineer for Boonton/HP but it was never used ("why support an obsolete instument?". Email me at "lawnweeds100@ yahoo.com" and I will send the file showing how to FET-ize the tube. Pete O. AI2V Mike T- don't post this on your site for a couple of weeks, just in case I screwed something up in the doc. Article: 323191 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: fix Dual 1019 References: <1127541919.677668.43520@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> <1127595807.73a2c62740f11224bedb37fce3db92db@teranews> <4335c9f5$0$219$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 05:05:26 GMT CalBubba wrote: > I'd like to find the ultimate lubricant for the platter shaft/thrust > ball race. Someone here once recommended STP for the ball bearings, and > for my machines, it was way wrong. I've been using Bosch (purple) demolition hammer grease. I had a fairly large tube of it left over from my construction tool repair days. The problem with STP is it is called "honey oil" for a reason. Way to sticky. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323192 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433AC2A7.98DA4B61@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:18:36 GMT Jason M wrote: > > Well, I hooked up the transistor radio setup on the 42 tube (the output > tube) connecting it to the screen grid. That is also the same place the > speaker wires connect, but I didn't get anything there. Maybe I'll try to > go past the 42 tube and hook on the grid on a 56 tube, hoping the 42 tube > amplifies the signal from the transistor radio(?). Can I blow up the > transistor radio setup hooking to the wrong spot? > > I don't have a manual for my signal generator, maybe I should go look for > one on the auction site. It's a Heathkit IG-102 that I got at a yard sale a > while back. I think it's got the original test lead with two alligator > clips on the end, but I don't know if it's capacitor isolated. All I know > for sure is I can get an RF signal out of it that I can pick up on AM > radios. > > I need to learn some more before answering about the R-C coupled or > interstage transformers. I'd venture to guess interstage transformers. > Even though the schematic doesn't show it, there are 5 little boxes under > the chassis of this radio that are hooked in that I assume are transformers > of some sort. > > Too bad I don't know anyone near me to ask about this. It looks exactly > like you said, the plates on the audio tubes are connected directly to the > chassis on the two 56 tubes.......those are the detector and A.F. amplifier. > The detector goes straight to chassis and the A.F. amplifier goes through a > cap (.001mfd). > > I'll mess with this more with the transistor setup, but I don't have a lot > of time today. I have a schematic for the IG-102, and it does have a .01 ľF capacitor on the RF output connector. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323193 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jason M" References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <433AC2A7.98DA4B61@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:24:16 GMT Thanks for the information about the signal generator. Glad to know I don't need to add a cap. Can anyone tell me where I should and shouldn't be hooking it to in the radio? Jason > > I have a schematic for the IG-102, and it does have a .01 ľF > capacitor on the RF output connector. > > -- > ? > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida Article: 323194 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jason M" References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:33:21 GMT OK, I've got somewhere at least. I hooked the transistor setup on a different grid of the 42 tube, the control grid instead of the screen grid. That's where I think signal comes in from the 56 tube through the questionable capacitors on the schematic. I heard the transistor radio on the speaker of the radio and the tone control does work. I'll have to try this again later and see if I get signal through the 56 tube. I have to leave for most of the day now though. Jason Article: 323195 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Jason M" References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 17:20:33 GMT I'm sure this is the last thing I can do atleast until tonight. Seeing how I got sound out of the output tube and speaker I went and tried the transistor radio on the other side of the questionable capacitors. Nothing came through. Then when nothing came through I thought maybe I should hook it up instead to the control grid on the 56 tube (AF amp) that comes off the volume control. I thought that should amplify the signal and get it to the output tube if anything would. Well, I still didn't get anything. I guess that's the bad point in the radio. That leads me to my original question. The schematics show the capacitors 53 and 54 in different positions than in this radio. In the schematic 54 is placed between the plate on the 56 tube (AF amp) and ground, and 53 is between the 54 tube's plate and the 42 tube's (output) control grid. This radio has the 54 capacitor connected between the 56 tube's plate and ground (on an IF transformer connection not shown on schematic) so that is right. The radio then has the 53 capacitor going between the same grounded point as the 54 up to the control grid on the 42 output tube. Essentially all my signal is lost there and I should rewire the 53 cap to the 56 tube's plate, right? OK, the wife's mad because I played too long. Have to go. Article: 323196 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FM From: Larry References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <1127883595.281218.299720@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 13:21:46 -0400 Gordon Richmond wrote in news:q7gkj1pomfj78dfj7kjt2d265t54m65jm9@4ax.com: > There is also a program of swing-era big band music every Sunday at > 1:00 PM. > > BBC 2 on the net has great swing music, and others. Malcolm Laycock's show in on Sunday night at 10PM UTC, but you can listen to the last show anytime you like on BBC's digital archives. http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/ They stream and on-demand any BBC radio show for the week on all 8 channels. Finest radio on the planet. Malcolm's show is on: http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio2/shows/laycock/ Click the contact button and tell him you're listening. He's quite a character, just like his picture!....(c; If you want to test out your low-end bass response, listen to Nigel Ogden's "The Organist Entertains" show on: http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio2/shows/organist/ England is still full of great old theatre organs, some even in car dealerships! Nigel is a good organist who plays many of them. Very entertaining. They only give him 30 minutes, so he talks really fast....(c; Just click on Listen Again to hear the last shows at your leisure. Someone posts Malcolm's swing band shows on alt.binaries.sounds.78rpm-era each week in 4 MP3 parts for your players. By the way, if you'd like to RECORD any streams on your computer, Total Recorder will record anything sent to or from your soundcard and compress it on-the-fly to an MP3 file simultaneously. Standard edition is $11.95. It's all you'll need. The digital AGC add-on for $32 is nice but overpriced in my opinion. http://www.highcriteria.com/ The PRO edition adds a powerful audio editor that normally costs hundreds of dollars, like a broadcast station might use. It will also automatically split long streams into smaller, more manageable files for storage. Both editions will convert on-the-fly to wav, mp3, ogg vorbis and FLAC, the new Free Lossless Audio Codec that is bit accurate compression. I use Total Recorder Pro's scheduler and internal browser to record the shows I want from the clock, convert them to MP3 for my player and go on to record the next show I want, even from some other website, without my being there. Works great...very neat. -- Larry Article: 323197 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FM From: Larry References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 13:33:54 -0400 "Phil B" wrote in news:K4mdnak_eNioN6feRVn- pg@comcast.com: > What does bother me is that we are slowly losing a fine > heritage. How? Every piece of classical music ever written has been recorded for eternity by a hundred different orchestras, by now. We can't "lose" them. Beethoven's dead so I don't suppose we'll need to play his "new tunes" in the future. What we DO lose is the pleasure of a LIVE PERFOMANCE of them. The cause of a lot of this is GREED, pure and simple. Not many people have the $250 to spend on a decent seat to hear it live. Many snobbish orchestras have just made it impossible for those young people to sit there, reserving it for the rich only. Too bad they're so short sighted the first 4 rows aren't given away free to any kid who shows up under 16 so they get hooked on it....and many would. The Smithsonian's big band came to Charleston Place's huge ballroom in downtown Charleston, SC. I took a new Steinway grand piano down for them to play during the big band concert that was FREE. The front tables were reserved for the patrons that paid for the hall. The rest of the ballroom was filled to capacity with ordinary people and LOTS of middle and high schoolers, amazingly. The show lasted over two hours because of the tremendous ovations and they just kept playing more.... Those kids you talk about were simply overwhelmed with the sound!... We put the piano back in my truck and had a great time hanging out with these excellent musicians after the show.... -- Larry Article: 323198 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" Subject: AK-60: Interesting! Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:26:12 GMT I just received a couple of 45 tubes for the AK-60. Thank you Verne! The problem with the radio is very low volume, and excessive hetrodyne whistles. Admittedly I have yet to mess with checking resistors, etc., but it can't hurt to have the correct tubes in place. Originally I had one bad 45, and one 26 where the other 45 should be. I put in the other tubes and tried it. It still has very low volume -- no surprise there -- although it's a little better than it was. But -- the whistles are gone and the signal is clean! Go figure! Now -- what the devil would make a TRF radio whistle? There is certainly no oscillator in there. The 26 is not an audio output tube but it is an audio triode tube with the same pin configuration. I can only figure that the 26 somehow went into oscillation at an RF frequency that could beat with incoming signals. Is the audio section capable of doing this? I suppose so. Anyway, I suppose my next step is what many consider the first step -- check the resistors and capacitors. Gee, I'm so reluctant to do this, like visiting the dentist. It's all original under there; I'll cry if I have to replace a dogbone with a carbon resistor. By the way, what are those things, one watt? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com Article: 323199 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Radio Rambler Subject: Re: FM Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:29:01 -0400 Message-ID: <3q0cogFckmsjU1@individual.net> References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <1127883595.281218.299720@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Larry wrote: > By the way, if you'd like to RECORD any streams on your computer, Total > Recorder will record anything sent to or from your soundcard and compress > it on-the-fly to an MP3 file simultaneously. Standard edition is $11.95. > It's all you'll need. The digital AGC add-on for $32 is nice but > overpriced in my opinion. > http://www.highcriteria.com/ > The PRO edition adds a powerful audio editor that normally costs hundreds > of dollars, like a broadcast station might use. It will also > automatically split long streams into smaller, more manageable files for > storage. Both editions will convert on-the-fly to wav, mp3, ogg vorbis and > FLAC, the new Free Lossless Audio Codec that is bit accurate compression. > I use Total Recorder Pro's scheduler and internal browser to record the > shows I want from the clock, convert them to MP3 for my player and go on > to record the next show I want, even from some other website, without my > being > there. Works great...very neat. > there is also a open source free alternative to total recorder. it is called Audacity. not only does it enable you to record streams or PCM outputs from any of your multimedia apps, it enables you to change the volume levels, cut the stream into pieces (which enables you to remove any commercials), then lets you export as a .WAV, MP3, ogg, or Flac & it has been ported to windows, unix, linux & freebsd. personally, since i use linux, i use KStreamripper, which is part of the KDE window manager enviroment. the nice thing about Audacity is that you can create really high quality MP3s because the conversion process is a separate process. the problem with encoding with compression "on the fly" is that the end result would end up with errors in the mp3 file. windows was never any good with multitasking, especially with processor intensive routines. -- The Shadow Knows Article: 323200 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: OT: this is just way too funny References: Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:52:40 GMT Kinda makes sense when you see who the seller is xrongor wrote: > i especially like the added 'disclaimer' > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6211701827 > > randy > > Article: 323201 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: FM Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:59:05 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <1127883595.281218.299720@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <3q0cogFckmsjU1@individual.net> In <3q0cogFckmsjU1@individual.net> Radio Rambler writes: >i use KStreamripper, which is part of the KDE window manager enviroment. Streamtuner+streamripper is one of the most fun new toys I have. Streamripper's called as a backend, and lives several seconds in the future. I'll see it change filenames and go "Oh, so that's what's coming up next!" :) Streamripper oughta be illegal :) - in fact, the guy who wrote it got hassled by live365. S'ok, what I want's on Shoutcast. >the nice thing about Audacity is that you can create really high quality >MP3s because the conversion process is a separate process. the problem with >encoding with compression "on the fly" is that the end result would end up >with errors in the mp3 file. windows was never any good with multitasking, >especially with processor intensive routines. Yeah, Audacity's nice. I still use Blade to encode. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 323202 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433B0BC9.4AB86D7A@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Advice on Predicta Pedestal PCB References: <1127888354.449330.84440@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:30:38 GMT Geoff wrote: > > Point taken guys. I'll just replace the resistors that are out of > specification. > > What does everyone think about briefly re-heating solder connections > (without removing in spec resistors) in order to assure that there are > no cold solder joints and assure that all the connections are good? > > Regards, > Geoff > Riverside, CA If you do, use a drop of good quality liquid RMA flux on each joint before heating it. Put a small ball of fresh solder on the tip of the soldering iron. Touch it to a joint, wait till it flows and move to the next joint. This will reflow poor joints and remove the oxidized surface >from the old solder. Most damage to old boards is done when trying to melt old, oxidized solder. The fresh solder mixes with the old solder so it melts at a lower temperature. Use a slightly damp solder sponge to wipe the tip when needed, then re-apply a bit of fresh solder for the next round. I recommend the Kester industrial rosin flux, like # 1544. Stay away from the GC. Its not activated enough to do a good job. The quicker you can work, the smaller your chance of damaging a PC board. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323203 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433B0C2A.189B98A9@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <433AC2A7.98DA4B61@earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:32:15 GMT Jason M wrote: > > Thanks for the information about the signal generator. Glad to know I don't > need to add a cap. Can anyone tell me where I should and shouldn't be > hooking it to in the radio? > > Jason E-mail me if you want the schematic. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323204 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: this is just way too funny Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:34:21 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1127917969.597fc9effff1d586cdf23f900ae07305@teranews> since you asked, i was looking for vintage tv lamps that may have slipped through the cracks with a poor description. i guess i found one randy "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message news:1127917969.597fc9effff1d586cdf23f900ae07305@teranews... > Eww. > The question, Randy, is what were *you* searching on to find that? ;-) > > "xrongor" wrote in message > news:dhe1eo$fj02$1@news3.infoave.net... >> i especially like the added 'disclaimer' >> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6211701827 >> >> randy >> >> > > From oldradio-at-wi.rr.com Wed Sep 28 23:55:42 EDT 2005 Article: 323205 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Reply-To: "James Hilins" From: "James Hilins" Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: report about Old Radio's Lines: 13 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Newsreader: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-RFC2646: Format=Flowed; Original X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 Message-ID: <5JF_e.77029$32.22385@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 23:31:13 GMT NNTP-Posting-Host: 67.53.6.126 X-Complaints-To: abuse@rr.com X-Trace: tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com 1127950273 67.53.6.126 (Wed, 28 Sep 2005 18:31:13 CDT) NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 18:31:13 CDT Organization: Road Runner High Speed Online http://www.rr.com Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!hammer.uoregon.edu!news.glorb.com!hwmnpeer01.lga!hwmedia!news-server.columbus.rr.com!cyclone2.kc.rr.com!news2.kc.rr.com!tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com.POSTED!53ab2750!not-for-mail Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:323205 Hi Jim, Jennifer is taking a TV production class this year in school. She has a school project that she needs to write a report about Old Radio's. She needs to compare the old stand up radio to the boom boxes of today. Do you know of any websites that could help her or can you provide and information that might help her? Also can you send her a picture of one of your finished radio's. Her email is good4once@verizon.net Thanks, Janet Article: 323206 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: report about Old Radio's References: <5JF_e.77029$32.22385@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> Message-ID: <44G_e.2875$K91.1186@twister.nyroc.rr.com> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 23:55:44 GMT I don't have any website in reticular to send you to, there are thousands. But I would focus on the number of jobs the old stand up radio created as opposed to a modern radio made by robots or cheap labor >from the Pacific rim. There were many women employed soldering and assembling parts for the old radios. Other people were employed making cabinets and finishing them. They had to have furniture appeal to find a place in the home and the quality of the cabinet was a big factor in that respect. Many parts were made with human hands being involved that controlled machines. Also was the entire service industry that kept them working. Today most consumer entertainment items go to the dump before seeing a service business when they no longer work properly. James Hilins wrote: > Hi Jim, > > Jennifer is taking a TV production class this year in school. She has a > school project that she needs to write a report about Old Radio's. She needs > to compare the old stand up radio to the boom boxes of today. Do you know of > any websites that could help her or can you provide and information that > might help her? Also can you send her a picture of one of your finished > radio's. Her email is good4once@verizon.net > > Thanks, > Janet > > Article: 323207 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Robert Murrell" Subject: Germanium transistors Message-ID: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 00:13:48 GMT I have a two transistor boy's radio that I need two gemanium RF transistors for, in TO-5 cans. Does anyone have a source for them? Robert Murrell Article: 323208 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "DumpsterDiver" References: Subject: Re: AK-60: Interesting! Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 00:41:21 GMT I assume that by now you have a copy of the schematic and voltage tables. Since you have already powered it up and it didn't blow up, I would next do a quick check of the various plate voltages. Any major discrepancies here should prompt you to look for problems in the power supply section (weak #80, open voltage divider resistors and leaky filter condensers are the usual suspects). Measuring the total B+ current right off the rectifier tube filament is a real good early diagnostic. Anything much over 120 mA or so is an indication of excessive filter leakage. If you find excessive current draw, be sure you fix this problem before proceeding farther to avoid risk of overload / overheating damage to the power transformer. If touching the detector and first audio tube grid leads produces a good loud buzz, look for weakness back in the RF stages. If not, the weakness is in the audio section. Audio transformers with open windings are a common problem here. Touching the grid cap of each RF tube is a quick & dirty for locating a dead or weak stage. Check that the RF tube screen voltages vary with the volume control position and are in the range indicated in the tables. I wouldn't be surprised if a #26 would oscillate when plugged into a #45 socket. Both the filament and plate voltages are way above design for the #26 tube. Probably didn't do the tube any good either. If you're still curious to know if it's RF or AF oscillation, I would suggest looking at it on a scope. DD "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:o7C_e.4234$zQ3.787@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... > I just received a couple of 45 tubes for the AK-60. Thank you Verne! > > The problem with the radio is very low volume, and excessive hetrodyne > whistles. Admittedly I have yet to mess with checking resistors, etc., but > it can't hurt to have the correct tubes in place. Originally I had one bad > 45, and one 26 where the other 45 should be. > > I put in the other tubes and tried it. It still has very low volume -- no > surprise there -- although it's a little better than it was. But -- the > whistles are gone and the signal is clean! Go figure! > > Now -- what the devil would make a TRF radio whistle? There is certainly no > oscillator in there. The 26 is not an audio output tube but it is an audio > triode tube with the same pin configuration. I can only figure that the 26 > somehow went into oscillation at an RF frequency that could beat with > incoming signals. Is the audio section capable of doing this? I suppose > so. > > Anyway, I suppose my next step is what many consider the first step -- check > the resistors and capacitors. Gee, I'm so reluctant to do this, like > visiting the dentist. It's all original under there; I'll cry if I have to > replace a dogbone with a carbon resistor. By the way, what are those > things, one watt? > > > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > Article: 323209 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: FM Date: 28 Sep 2005 19:51:04 -0500 Message-ID: <433b39d9$0$225$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Larry wrote: > "Phil B" wrote in news:K4mdnak_eNioN6feRVn- > pg@comcast.com: > > >>What does bother me is that we are slowly losing a fine >>heritage. > > > How? Every piece of classical music ever written has been recorded for > eternity by a hundred different orchestras, by now. We can't "lose" them. > Beethoven's dead so I don't suppose we'll need to play his "new tunes" in > the future. > I must correct you. The truth is that the vast literature of classical music has been unrecorded. However, what's true is that the same pieces have been recorded to death over and over again. Unfortunate. Frankly, I never want to hear Beethoven's Fifth ever again, and I don't care if I ever hear any of his music before his late string quartets either. > What we DO lose is the pleasure of a LIVE PERFOMANCE of them. The cause of > a lot of this is GREED, pure and simple. Not many people have the $250 to > spend on a decent seat to hear it live. Many snobbish orchestras have just > made it impossible for those young people to sit there, reserving it for > the rich only. Too bad they're so short sighted the first 4 rows aren't > given away free to any kid who shows up under 16 so they get hooked on > it....and many would. > Not greed. Reality. Unfortunately, an orchestra is a large enterprise, and someone has to pay the musicians. Consider that an instrumentalist's education probably cost more than a doctor's. We just don't have the funding set up to make this enterprise egalitarian. And, by the way, I agree that those first four rows should go free to the kids. I think that the State of North Carolina had the right idea when they funded a civil service orchestra for a few decades (ever hear of the North Carolina Symphony?). The issue, and it's a big one, is how to fund the arts. It's a vast question and too OT for here. > The Smithsonian's big band came to Charleston Place's huge ballroom in > downtown Charleston, SC. I took a new Steinway grand piano down for them > to play during the big band concert that was FREE. The front tables were > reserved for the patrons that paid for the hall. The rest of the ballroom > was filled to capacity with ordinary people and LOTS of middle and high > schoolers, amazingly. The show lasted over two hours because of the > tremendous ovations and they just kept playing more.... Those kids you > talk about were simply overwhelmed with the sound!... We put the piano > back in my truck and had a great time hanging out with these excellent > musicians after the show.... > How were you involved? Like, whose piano was this? Bubba Article: 323210 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: AM transmitter with a little more power Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:03:43 -0400 Message-ID: <11jmfbho8214g7e@corp.supernews.com> References: <1127846775.781083.12500@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> DaveM wrote: > If not, a big loading coil on the > antenna would probably help. Probably? I hear the pope coil can increase range to a half mile. John H. Article: 323211 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: AK-60: Interesting! Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 01:03:26 GMT I certainly won't bother with putting the 26 back -- we know it was the problem with the oscillation. Yes, I've got a schematic on the computer, and I've also got Rider's III here, so I'm good to go in that department. The RF is working fine -- I get tons of stations, just very weak volume. I hope the heck it's not a transformer; I was figuring on something like a grid resistor. I was hoping to work on it today or tomorrow; however there's a 68 Roadrunner, 57 T-Bird, and a 55 Ford in front of it. I just found out my daughter is coming home tomorrow, so we gotta clean up the house . . . ho hum. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "DumpsterDiver" wrote in message news:RKG_e.334334$5N3.87309@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... >I assume that by now you have a copy of the schematic and voltage tables. > > Since you have already powered it up and it didn't blow up, I would next > do > a quick check of the various plate voltages. Any major discrepancies here > should prompt you to look for problems in the power supply section (weak > #80, open voltage divider resistors and leaky filter condensers are the > usual suspects). > > Measuring the total B+ current right off the rectifier tube filament is a > real good early diagnostic. Anything much over 120 mA or so is an > indication of excessive filter leakage. If you find excessive current > draw, > be sure you fix this problem before proceeding farther to avoid risk of > overload / overheating damage to the power transformer. > > If touching the detector and first audio tube grid leads produces a good > loud buzz, look for weakness back in the RF stages. If not, the weakness > is > in the audio section. Audio transformers with open windings are a common > problem here. > > Touching the grid cap of each RF tube is a quick & dirty for locating a > dead > or weak stage. > > Check that the RF tube screen voltages vary with the volume control > position > and are in the range indicated in the tables. > > I wouldn't be surprised if a #26 would oscillate when plugged into a #45 > socket. Both the filament and plate voltages are way above design for the > #26 tube. Probably didn't do the tube any good either. If you're still > curious to know if it's RF or AF oscillation, I would suggest looking at > it > on a scope. > > > DD > > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:o7C_e.4234$zQ3.787@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> I just received a couple of 45 tubes for the AK-60. Thank you Verne! >> >> The problem with the radio is very low volume, and excessive hetrodyne >> whistles. Admittedly I have yet to mess with checking resistors, etc., > but >> it can't hurt to have the correct tubes in place. Originally I had one > bad >> 45, and one 26 where the other 45 should be. >> >> I put in the other tubes and tried it. It still has very low volume -- >> no >> surprise there -- although it's a little better than it was. But -- the >> whistles are gone and the signal is clean! Go figure! >> >> Now -- what the devil would make a TRF radio whistle? There is certainly > no >> oscillator in there. The 26 is not an audio output tube but it is an > audio >> triode tube with the same pin configuration. I can only figure that the > 26 >> somehow went into oscillation at an RF frequency that could beat with >> incoming signals. Is the audio section capable of doing this? I suppose >> so. >> >> Anyway, I suppose my next step is what many consider the first step -- > check >> the resistors and capacitors. Gee, I'm so reluctant to do this, like >> visiting the dentist. It's all original under there; I'll cry if I have > to >> replace a dogbone with a carbon resistor. By the way, what are those >> things, one watt? >> >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> > > > Article: 323212 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: AC capacitor question Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 21:06:32 -0400 Message-ID: <11jmfgq8t3eupcb@corp.supernews.com> References: Tom Mills wrote: > How are dry dielectric AC capacitors rated? AC x 2.5= DC rating. Hence some of my AC 220 volt caps are also marked 550 DC. John H. Article: 323213 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 01:05:48 GMT Uh, what are the transistor types? That might give us a clue. A lot of replacement transistors are still available for germanium types. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Robert Murrell" wrote in message news:0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net... >I have a two transistor boy's radio that I need two gemanium RF transistors >for, in TO-5 cans. Does anyone have a source for them? > > Robert Murrell > > Article: 323214 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Advice on Predicta Pedestal PCB Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:12:38 -0600 Message-ID: <4766-433B3F86-31@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: <1127950156.729120.34250@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Dont overlook those tube sockets . Putting tube sockets on a pc board was one of the worst ideas ever . I have worked on one Predicta Holiday and went over a Pedistal model for an estimate for someone and found touchy tube sockets in both sets . At least reheat the solder on those and look them over good with that board out plug a tube in each and pinch the pin holes to get a snug fit on the tube pins . Article: 323215 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Silvertone Phono Info From: lherault@bu.edu References: <11jgvdchq29e251@corp.supernews.com> <43389e0b$1_2@newsfeed.slurp.net> <433a03c1_5@newsfeed.slurp.net> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 01:35:38 GMT Message-ID: <433b450e$1_2@newsfeed.slurp.net> my pleasure. Ron Article: 323216 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: HELP needed with cathedral PHILCO 60B Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:54:30 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1127949794.579517.153010@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> working on anything electric while barefoot on concrete is NOT a good idea. randy wrote in message news:1127949794.579517.153010@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > I'm working on a Philco 60B that gives me a mild shock with I touch the > chassis. > When I'm bare-footed on the concrete floor, I touch the chassis and I > get a mild shock. > > Any I deals what to check for? > Thanks, > Terry in Texas > Article: 323217 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Germanium transistors From: Larry References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Message-ID: Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:22:45 -0400 "Robert Murrell" wrote in news:0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net: > I have a two transistor boy's radio that I need two gemanium RF > transistors for, in TO-5 cans. Does anyone have a source for them? > > Robert Murrell > > ECG has replacements. Not sure of the number, though. I use lots of ECG germanium replacement transistors in the individual oscillators of old Allen Organs. Each note is a separate germanium Hartley oscillator. -- Larry Article: 323218 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: HELP needed with cathedral PHILCO 60B Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:24:43 -0600 Message-ID: <4765-433B506B-141@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: Yes ... look for a pair of dry shoes . Depending on the person ( health , age ) it could be dangerous . Please wear shoes or at least use a good thick mat on the floor . Article: 323219 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 20:33:47 -0600 Message-ID: <4765-433B528B-143@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: Many 2 transistor radios used one 2SA101 in the tuner and a 2SB56 in the amp PNP transistors i dont remember ever seeing NPN transistors in these radios . The radio i have now has 2SA156 tuner , 2SB117 in the amp . Article: 323220 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433B5D20.C71890FE@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: Germanium transistors References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 03:17:43 GMT Larry wrote: > > "Robert Murrell" wrote in > news:0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net: > > > I have a two transistor boy's radio that I need two gemanium RF > > transistors for, in TO-5 cans. Does anyone have a source for them? > > > > Robert Murrell > > > > > > ECG has replacements. Not sure of the number, though. I use lots of ECG > germanium replacement transistors in the individual oscillators of old > Allen Organs. Each note is a separate germanium Hartley oscillator. > > -- > Larry ECG? They have been out of business for several years. Their remaining assets were bought by NTE: http://www.nteinc.com/ -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323221 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: Anyone have a spare piece of phenoic laying around? Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:55:53 -0500 Message-ID: References: On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 21:19:06 -0500 Old Radios wrote: >I'm trying to locate a piece of black 1/8" phenolic, about 15" long and >5" wide. Just wondering if anyone had a scrap they'd consider getting >rid of. We've probably got some brown, might even be dark brown. I know that's not what you were hoping for, but I'm very close to you. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 323222 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Terry" References: <1127748664.549399.167820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Old Marantz tubes Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 02:11:49 -0230 wrote in message news:1127748664.549399.167820@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... >I have inherited an Marantz old stereo, made in the 50s or 60s. My mom > inherited it from her father and I remember that this thing sounded > great, but now it does not. > I know next-to-nothing about these things, but it sounds very similar > to when a guitar amp needs new tubes. > My questions are as follows: > 1) Where are the tubes located on this thing? > 2) How do I remove them? > 3) How do I know what sort of tubes this thing takes? > 4) Where can I buy tubes for it? > > TIA > > -Karl > Karl: Whoa ................ hold on. Do NOT, repeat do not, assume that because something electronic does not work it is the tubes. Many of us are still using tubes manufactured and installed before WWII. In fact with old equipment tubes may be the last thing needed! The problem is much more likely to be the internal electronic components. I have a 1942 ex-military radio that has never needed a tube in the some 30 years I've owned it! Another example; my neighbour came over with a non working 1940s radio a few weeks ago and all it's tubes tested OK. Although one tube was a little weak (about 60%) once the radio was repaired it has worked fine ever since. Most often old equipment is plugged in by someone not knowledgeable and something really expensive such the power transformer which can cost up to $100 or more to replace promptly burns out! Replacing a transformer with its many wire connections IS a big, expensive and tedious job btw; quite apart >from trying to find or have made, a suitable replacement. So DON'T PLUG IT IN! As a good guess and with reasonable luck the equipment may need no more than $25 worth of parts plus the know-how and test equipment to identify and replace them, rather than a newer set of tubes at a much higher cost, which won't fix the problem! It's rather the same as buying a whole new set of tyres for a car because it has rough ride when what is really needed is the know-how for the installation of, say, new wheel bearings! Also like car tyres and many other products there are at least 100,000 different types, sizes and ratings of electronic tubes. So even when a certain tube might 'look' similar and will fit into the same socket it doesn't mean that it will work and may in fact damage the equipment. Article: 323223 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Larry Fowkes" References: <1127980728.695188.60370@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Problem with my Zenith Transoceanic Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 06:37:00 -0400 Message-ID: <433bc4bf$0$14233$2c56edd9@news.cablerocket.com> wrote in message news:1127980728.695188.60370@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com... > Sometimes when I listen to my Transoceanic.. after about 45 minutes > I'll hear a pop. Then the volume slowly decreases until I have, > basically, silence (although I do hear some signal if I crank it all > the way up). Eventually the volume fades back up. What is the problem > here? > Which TO do you have, is it a tube or solid state model? Article: 323224 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Robert Murrell" References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:41:27 GMT The one transistor I have is not marked. They were in sockets. I should have mentioned that they are PNP. Its a reflex circuit, but I see that only one transistor is amplifying RF and audio. The second is audio only. I could get by with a 2N107 there. The circuit is so simple that I'm sure generic replacements will work. "DaveM" wrote in message news:Ga2dnadX9LKJwqbeRVn-hg@comcast.com... > "Robert Murrell" wrote in message > news:0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net... >>I have a two transistor boy's radio that I need two gemanium RF >>transistors for, in TO-5 cans. Does anyone have a source for them? >> >> Robert Murrell >> >> > > Only two transistors in the radio??? And they're both RF types??? Are > you sure??? > -- > Dave M > MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters > in the address) > > Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!! > Article: 323225 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) Subject: Re: CTC-10 remote control problems Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 05:08:04 -0700 Message-ID: <4154-433BD924-82@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> References: <1127963293.723502.74760@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Hey Frenchy Just out of curiosity, what did you find to be the cause of the color problem (originally suspected to be a dead oscillator)? Sorry can't offer any help on the remote. Bill(oc) Article: 323226 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: paulSPAM@paulsherwin.co.uk (Paul Sherwin) Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 12:16:19 GMT Message-ID: <433bda65.9513770@news.demon.co.uk> References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:41:27 GMT, "Robert Murrell" wrote: >The one transistor I have is not marked. They were in sockets. I should >have mentioned that they are PNP. Its a reflex circuit, but I see that only >one transistor is amplifying RF and audio. The second is audio only. I >could get by with a 2N107 there. The circuit is so simple that I'm sure >generic replacements will work. > Pretty much any mainstream RF germainium transistor should work in that posistion - in fact, you may even get a PNP silicon transistor to work. If you have a scrap transistor radio from the 60s, that will have suitable transistors. HTH, Paul -- Paul Sherwin Consulting http://paulsherwin.co.uk Article: 323227 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FM From: Larry References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433b39d9$0$225$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433b854a$0$200$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 08:44:37 -0400 CalBubba wrote in news:433b854a$0$200$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com: > Steinway bought the piano so they could send it around from one > dealer to the next as an advertisement? > > Sure....Everything in the piano business is a promotion to sell pianos. It's how they stay in business..... -- Larry Article: 323228 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Germanium transistors From: Larry References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> <433B5D20.C71890FE@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 08:45:09 -0400 "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in news:433B5D20.C71890FE@earthlink.net: > ECG? They have been out of business for several years. Their > remaining assets were bought by NTE: http://www.nteinc.com/ > 'Scuze me....NTE. -- Larry Article: 323229 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Germanium transistors From: Larry References: <4765-433B528B-143@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 08:59:00 -0400 goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) wrote in news:4765-433B528B-143@storefull- 3258.bay.webtv.net: > The radio i have now has 2SA156 tuner , 2SB117 in the amp . > > Why not download the QuickCross software from http://www.nteinc.com/ and install it on your confuser? Then, you can just look up the NTE cross for any transistors you run across since the CK722 and just get it. NTE won't spam you or share your information you give them. You can also use the QuickCross to catalog the transistors in your junk drawers. Enter their numbers into the search engine and it returns the NTE number. Put a little piece of tape on it and put the NTE number on it or however you'd like to store it. Then, later, you can use the Quickcross to find the NTE number on a bad one and go to your drawers to find a good NTE number on a transistor you already have. I've been doing it that way for years. 2SA126 is an NTE 126 in a TO-18 package ad any letter and its NTE 160 in a TO-72 package. 2SB117 is an NTE 102A just like my Allen Organ replacements use in the little TO-1 package. They're all Germanium PNPs.... -- Larry Article: 323230 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Pete_O" Subject: Re: HELP needed with cathedral PHILCO 60B Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 09:04:11 +0200 Message-ID: References: <1127949794.579517.153010@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> I'm working on a Philco 60B that gives me a mild shock with I touch the chassis. When I'm bare-footed on the concrete floor, I touch the chassis and I get a mild shock. **Concrete is a great conductor, and those Philco's always have 0.015mfd caps from the line to the chassis making the shock normal. As others have advised, use a grounded cord if you are operating the radio with a concrete floor. -Pete O. Article: 323231 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Problem with my Zenith Transoceanic From: Larry References: <1127980728.695188.60370@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 09:03:01 -0400 docgorpon@aol.com wrote in news:1127980728.695188.60370@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com: > Sometimes when I listen to my Transoceanic.. after about 45 minutes > I'll hear a pop. Then the volume slowly decreases until I have, > basically, silence (although I do hear some signal if I crank it all > the way up). Eventually the volume fades back up. What is the problem > here? > > Put your voltmeter on the AVC line. Sounds like one of those high-value megaohm resistors is intermittent. When it pops, the resistor opens and the AVC line goes crazy cutting off the tubes (or transistors) in the IF section. Of course, it could be a thousand other problems, but because of this slow time constant you see it's my first guess. -- Larry Article: 323232 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" Subject: oil in auto radio Message-ID: <2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net> Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:35:48 -0700 Group, What's the best way to rinse a coat of light oil out of an auto radio chassis? I was thinking of giving it a light spray of mineral spirits AKA paint thinner which leaves little or no residue. I'm afraid the oil with the accumulated dirt (it's from a '54 Monarch) will provide leakage paths if I don't get most of the oil out of it. Would paint thinner cause problems? Cheers, Nelson Article: 323233 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Crosley 158 schematic correct? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <1127846309.447016.242570@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1127853583.533523.257550@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1127940667.811328.272810@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <%WK_e.17771$SG3.16576@trnddc07> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 14:02:17 GMT In article <%WK_e.17771$SG3.16576@trnddc07>, jhsonline@nospamverizon.net says... > > >Now it is sounding great. Probably just as >important, I learned a little more about fixing these. Thanks! > >Jason Now you need to pick up a Signal Tracer.. also take that signal generator that you have there .... play around putting it in various places in this working radio ... both audio input and RF input and you will begin to understand what to expect from the next Non-Working radio on the various stages.... John k9uwa Article: 323234 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: oil in auto radio Message-ID: References: <2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 14:20:55 GMT I have hosed down a couple of radio chassis with aerosol brake cleaner, with no apparent ill effects. I would try to keep it out of IF transformers, though. Gordon Richmond Article: 323235 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433b39d9$0$225$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> Subject: Re: FM Message-ID: <1128008980.c4ce6f1d521eb9fb5f66769306da167c@teranews> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:49:36 -0500 "Larry" wrote in message news:Xns96DFE3ACBF432noone@63.223.7.253... > I moved all his > pianos for several years before they dropped a 6' 1" brand new Young Chang > on top of my and broke my left arm all up. The muscles never healed right > so I can't lift those thousand pound uprights any more. Drifting further OT: I am amazed by people who move pianos. Example - one day some years ago I went to a little downtown piano repair store, wondering what it costs to have an old upright redone (answer: if you have to pay to have the cabinet work done, it's not worth it.) The owner was this little short, wiry fellow easily in his 60s. But he can pick up upright pianos and CARRY them. I watched it happen. A jaw-dropping sight. How do people do that? Is this a learned skill, and how do you learn it without ripping a muscle? paul Article: 323236 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FM From: Larry References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433b39d9$0$225$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1128008980.c4ce6f1d521eb9fb5f66769306da167c@teranews> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 12:45:26 -0400 "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in news:1128008980.c4ce6f1d521eb9fb5f66769306da167c@teranews: > How do people do that? Is this a learned skill, and how do you learn it > without ripping a muscle? > Truth? Hmm....Well, we don't ACTUALLY pick up the pianos...(c; We do have to pick up one end of an upright to put the dolly under the middle of it, then just rock it down on the dolly which picks up the other end like a teeter totter. It takes two, usually, one to put the dolly in the right place so it doesn't fall off to the side, but I can do it myself with one foot on smaller pianos, reducing labor costs..(c; Grand pianos, we simply take them apart. 1 - Remove end blocks and pull out the whole action from inside. It's made for this so we can fix the action. Remove the top, its hinges come apart for this. Remove the music rack. All that's left is the case, soundboard and frame with strings on it. It's much lighter than it was. Drape the top with furniture moving blankets and use big rubber bands to hold it in place so it can't come off and scratch it. 2 - Place grand piano moving board by the long side (left as you're at the keys). Remove front legs and set piano on lyre (the piece with the pedals in the middle). Again, we have a teeter totter. Lift the short side and the long side goes down, on the grand board's padded top if you do it right, not the floor. Now, already half tilted over, you lift half the piano off the lyre and stand it up on its left side (long side) on the padded moving board. Remove the back leg and lyre. They come off, too. Put all the little parts in the truck BEFORE you forget and leave something behind! Wrap them all in blankets. The piano is already wrapped and the blanket on the left side is under the case to protect it. Two big straps go up over the kidney of it and the big end to hold the board firmly to the case so it can't slip off sideways. 3 - Lift the little kidney end which is LOTS lighter than the big end. When you do this, as soon as it clears the floor, the big end goes over the centerline and actually helps lift it up as it's going down over center. Just like the upright, place one dolly under the center of gravity under the grand board and rock the piano up on the dolly, having never lifted it at all. The piano is now the same length, but only a foot WIDE so it will easily go through any door. Sometimes its length is too long. If that happens, we lift the kidney (small end) straight up in the air to turn it. The board has a stop board (padded too) so it can't slip off the grand board it rests on while you do this. Turn it laying almost on its big end, then lay it back down on the dolly you move around to catch it again and you're ready to go in the desired direction. Going up or down stairs means putting blankets on the stairs to protect the stairs and sliding the grand board up or down the blankets, which always bunch up under the board but who cares. We tear up a lot of blankets...(c; Put it back on the dolly when you get up or down. This is the most work you do all day. If in doubt CALL FOR THE CRANE COMPANY TO LIFT IT! Crane fees are MUCH cheaper than replacing something THIS expensive. You already added the $100 the crane company wants for an hour into your moving price. When you get to its destination, simply reverse the process to the astonished onlookers who haven't got a clue to what you are doing....If the grand is shiny, polish off the polyester with polyester polish. If it's satin finished, use Windex and a special soft cloth....DON'T POLISH IT! It's quite easy, once you've done a couple of hundred. If you use the same laborers all the time like I did, they know what to do automatically. Make one of them a straw boss and pay him more. Then you don't have to lift the damned thing at all!....(c; "Willie. Get that piano loaded on the truck, ok?"....."Sure, Boss!"....now THAT'S music to MY ears! I'll carry the legs out....(c; -- Larry Article: 323237 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: oil in auto radio From: Larry References: <2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 12:47:29 -0400 "Nelson Gietz" wrote in news:2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net: > I'm afraid the oil with > the accumulated dirt (it's from a '54 Monarch) will provide leakage > paths if I don't get most of the oil out of it. I'm afraid if you go cleaning it it will RUST ALL UP in a few months and be ruined.... -- Larry Article: 323238 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: FM References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433b39d9$0$225$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1128008980.c4ce6f1d521eb9fb5f66769306da167c@teranews> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 17:49:02 GMT Paul Dietenberger wrote: > How do people do that? Is this a learned skill, and how do you learn it > without ripping a muscle? How NOT to move a piano: Invite friend with a pickup truck over to help by offering him a six-pack of beer. Muscle an upright piano into the bed of the truck first by lifting one end, setting it inside, then lifting the other and walking it forward. Put blanket between piano and side of truck. Run rope from stake pocket in front of pick up truck bed around piano to pocket at the rear of the bed. Take off. Hit the off ramp of the freeway a bit too fast and watch piano tip over backwards and tumble out of truck bed and hit off ramp at about 40 MPH. Salvage keys from what's left on the side of the off ramp and hand out to friends as "key chain holders." Note: About a year ago, I bought an upright made in 1909. I figured that the $125 I paid the movers was worth it. I hate them. They make it look SO easy. ;-) Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323239 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: CTC-10 remote control problems References: <1127963293.723502.74760@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <4154-433BD924-82@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> <1128017953.193430.264590@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:29:36 GMT frenchy wrote: > I'm in the dark on the remote control, I have a handful of old tv > repair books but none of them say word one about remote controls! > Sounds like this one works via ultrasonics in the 40KC range. I used to work in a dismal little shop called Merit Television. One of my few pleasures working there was to pull out my keychain and rattle it while the other tech had his face buried in a set doing convergance. CHUNK CHUNK CHUNK.... The remotes themselves, some of them, had a striker that would hit an aluminum rod. (Which is why rattling keys would work.) Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323240 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Tom Mills" References: <11jmfgq8t3eupcb@corp.supernews.com> Subject: Re: AC capacitor question Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:50:29 -0400 Thanks for all the help! > > > Tom Mills wrote: > >> How are dry dielectric AC capacitors rated? > > AC x 2.5= DC rating. Hence some of my AC 220 volt caps are also marked 550 > DC. > > John H. > Article: 323241 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: " Uncle Peter" References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Message-ID: <56Y_e.84516$DW1.70428@fed1read06> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:26:44 -0400 "DaveM" wrote in message > > Only two transistors in the radio??? And they're both RF types??? Are > you sure??? > -- > Dave M > It's a reflex circuit. RF transistors will work at AF too. From adouglasatgis.net Sat Oct 1 13:56:37 EDT 2005 Article: 323242 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Alan Douglas Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FM Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:47:09 -0400 Organization: http://newsguy.com Lines: 20 Message-ID: References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433b39d9$0$225$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1128008980.c4ce6f1d521eb9fb5f66769306da167c@teranews> NNTP-Posting-Host: p-922.newsdawg.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572 Path: news1.isis.unc.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!canoe.uoregon.edu!newshub.sdsu.edu!tethys.csu.net!pln-w!spln!dex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news3 Xref: news1.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:323242 Hi, >How NOT to move a piano: (snip) If you don't tie down the lid of an upright, the wind will catch it and flip it over and off. Don't ask how I know this. True story (happened to my father years ago): he helped some co-workers move an upright from one house to another. Never having done it before, none of them realized how heavy a piano should be, but this one seemed uncommonly heavy. They about killed themselves but they finally got it into place in its new home. Then they took off the bottom board and found that the entire bottom inside had been poured full of LEAD. Apparently the piano had been on one of the Woods Hole Oceanographic ships, and the ballast was to keep it stable in heavy seas. They had just moved an extra 500 lbs. of lead. Alan Article: 323243 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Hagstar Subject: Re: OT: this is just way too funny Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 17:42:15 -0400 Message-ID: <11jontqiqefj5b@corp.supernews.com> References: Lou deGonzague wrote: > Kinda makes sense when you see who the seller is > > High bidder us "tightbod" ! ROTFLMAO! John H. Article: 323244 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: OT: this is just way too funny Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:52:25 -0600 Message-ID: References: <11jontqiqefj5b@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" wrote in message news:11jontqiqefj5b@corp.supernews.com... > > > Lou deGonzague wrote: >> Kinda makes sense when you see who the seller is >> >> > High bidder us "tightbod" ! ROTFLMAO! wow, its just getting better and better!! randy Article: 323245 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433C6A75.34528B44@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: CTC-10 remote control problems References: <1127963293.723502.74760@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 22:26:50 GMT frenchy wrote: > > < hit an aluminum rod. (Which is why rattling keys would work.) >> > > I could go out and buy some dog whistles ; ) Use an ultrasonic transducer and a 555 timer with different resistors and push buttons to generate the different frequencies. The service data usually tells the frequency for each function. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323246 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Tim Mullen Subject: Re: CTC-10 remote control problems Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 22:45:23 +0000 (UTC) Message-ID: References: <1127963293.723502.74760@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <4154-433BD924-82@storefull-3175.bay.webtv.net> <1128017953.193430.264590@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128020544.606414.33830@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> In <1128020544.606414.33830@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "frenchy" writes: ><hit an aluminum rod. (Which is why rattling keys would work.) >> >I could go out and buy some dog whistles ; ) Or run really fast toward the set while whistling. -- Tim Mullen ------------------------------------------------------------------ Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc. ------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 ------- Article: 323247 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Beerbarrel Subject: Re: OT: this is just way too funny Message-ID: <3proj1d5qe51faoqtp2a75phc9a253c0a2@4ax.com> References: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:48:58 -0400 On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 06:14:21 -0600, "xrongor" wrote: >i especially like the added 'disclaimer' >http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6211701827 > >randy Do you know what is really funny? The item that you were searching for when you found this. Article: 323248 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Beerbarrel Subject: Re: this is just way too funny Message-ID: References: <1127917969.597fc9effff1d586cdf23f900ae07305@teranews> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:50:18 -0400 On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:34:21 -0600, "xrongor" wrote: >since you asked, i was looking for vintage tv lamps that may have slipped >through the cracks with a poor description. i guess i found one > >randy > >"Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message >news:1127917969.597fc9effff1d586cdf23f900ae07305@teranews... >> Eww. >> The question, Randy, is what were *you* searching on to find that? ;-) >> >> "xrongor" wrote in message >> news:dhe1eo$fj02$1@news3.infoave.net... >>> i especially like the added 'disclaimer' >>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6211701827 >>> >>> randy >>> >>> >> >> > cmon...tell us the real story!!!! Article: 323249 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: FM From: Larry References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <4338a348_7@Opticon.100ProofNews.com> <4338eb6d$0$247$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <433b39d9$0$225$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1128008980.c4ce6f1d521eb9fb5f66769306da167c@teranews> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:56:39 -0400 Alan Douglas wrote in news:s6koj1dk6kuigonrp729qp9q0c57uers1t@4ax.com: > Don't ask how I know this. If you take a 1000# upright piano, one of those old mirrored top ones, and SECURE it to the pickup truck bed....THEN....swing around the corner in the usual manner....The high weight of the piano WILL tip the whole truck over on its side as the heavy strapping holds the tipping piano solid to the little truck. Saw a Chevy S10 little pickup in a ditch with the piano firmly strapped to the overturned truck. $125 would have been CHEAP! -- Larry Article: 323250 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Problem with my Zenith Transoceanic From: Larry References: <1127980728.695188.60370@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> <1128021391.075558.288440@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:59:47 -0400 docgorpon@aol.com wrote in news:1128021391.075558.288440@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com: > Or at least > what I should tell the repair man to look at. :) > If the repair man needs our suggestions, keep looking for a real technician to work on it. Of course, you COULD ship it to one of our resident radio shops that are watching this post....(c; They'll fix it first class, not just haphazardly. -- Larry Article: 323251 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: CalBubba Subject: Re: FM Date: 29 Sep 2005 18:45:03 -0500 Message-ID: <433c7c31$0$225$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> References: <4338758b$1_7@Output.100ProofNews.com> <43388639$1_18@Output.100ProofNews.com> <4338923d$0$224$bb4e3ad8@newscene.com> <1128009400.627739.318310@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Kim_Jong_Il@volcanomail.com wrote: > Random musings and responses. Note that quoting using Google access is > difficult. > > CalBubba said: > "The only classical music we're able to get > in the SF Bay Area is one station owned by a syndicate based in Utah > --? > > You get WGMS all the way out there in California? Kidding. WGMS is the > Bonneville-owned commercial classical station in DC with programming > just as you have described. > Nope. Bonneville bought KDFC, a classical station in Marin County. It sounds locally-programmed. > When I lived in Charlottesville VA, twenty years ago, the local cable > company, Jefferson Cable, now part of Adelphia, used to bring in WFMT. > I ran the cable to my Heathkit AR-15. I loved the ads for the > Chicago-area high end car dealers. > Are you like those other dictators who come to the US for their education and then do bad things to their people? > > I am not one, but I can easily see how sports enthusiasts would stay > glued to the set all weekend long. As for the sitcoms, I like my DVD > player more every day. I tend to watch old black and white movies from > the 40s - "The Best Years of Our Lives" and "The Bicycle Thief," to > name two I have seen recently. TBYOOL was Picture of Year for 1946, I > believe. > Dunno. If you're the Kim Jong Il I know and love so well, you wear elevator shoes, a pompodour, and are really, really, into Daffy Duck cartoons. Bubbba Article: 323252 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de> Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 02:01:24 +0200 Message-ID: References: <4765-433B528B-143@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> Larry wrote: > Why not download ... > install it on your confuser? Larry, you made my day! I'm rolling on ... ;-) Kind Regards, Georg Article: 323253 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul P" References: <2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net> Subject: Re: oil in auto radio Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 00:05:48 GMT I have used various CRC products from Home Depot/Lowes. They have an easy biodegradable cleaner and a very aggressive motor winding cleaner. You have to wait a few hours before the biodegradable evaporates away. The other stuff evaporates faster. Good Luck. PP. "Nelson Gietz" wrote in message news:2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net... > Group, > What's the best way to rinse a coat of light oil out of an auto radio > chassis? I was thinking of giving it a light spray of mineral spirits AKA > paint thinner which leaves little or no residue. I'm afraid the oil with > the accumulated dirt (it's from a '54 Monarch) will provide leakage paths > if > I don't get most of the oil out of it. Would paint thinner cause > problems? > Cheers, > Nelson > > Article: 323254 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" References: Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:13:15 -0500 Message-ID: <433c8186$1_3@newspeer2.tds.net> ROFL. Sorry, Mark. :-) Intentionally or not, it was kind of a funny read. Being in business just doesn't pay at times like this, eh? I bet on top of it all that the guy thinks your knob is expensive at $10 too........ Hang in there. Mama said there'd be days like these. What would we do without you to supply stuff? paul p.s. If anyone ever finds a source for a new dial for a Stromberg 245M let me know. I don't think you have it, and mine is cracked in two places. "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:t4GdnbGmbpT466HeRVn-tA@comcast.com... > You all know, I have tons of parts here, like fresh stock capacitors, > rare controls, tubes, and, lots of knobs.But this parts business is just > driving me crazy lately. Here's why: > > Instead of sending me an email stating clearly what they need, I get about > 12 emails, all to sell one measly $10 knob. It goes like this: > > email #1: > Hi, I was referred by xxx and he says you sell knobs. do you? > > Me: yes. send me a pix or tell me what set > > Email #2 > Its brown and has swirls. goes on a Crosley. > > Me: OK, that narrows it down to about 1000 types. I need to know the shaft > type, the size, and really, need a pix or model and brand of set. > > #3: I have attached a pix. > Me: that pix is so dark, and you shot it from the other room. take the > knob you want matched off and shoot it closer. > > #4 : OK heres a better shot > Me: OK now I see it. You only shot the front, what shaft does this fit? > > #5: 1/4" > Me: half round, serrated or full round??? > > #6: half round. > me: let me check > > #7 OK, I found it. $10 + $2 post > > (two weeks later) > #8 I need a knob for a Crosley 515 > Me: do you still want the knob I found for you 2 weeks ago? > > #9 oh, yeah, thats for this, I forgot. How much for it? > Me: $10+ $2 post. send money, here's my address, I take paypal, MO, > checks. > > #10: can you send me a pix of your knob so I can see it? > > ..........!!!!!!!!! > > and it just keeps on and on and on!!! I now get between 12 and 25 radio > emails per DAY. > > I try to be nice to folks but my patience just is gone now....Its getting to > be 45mins or more, in emails and searching , just for one stinking > knob....almost no one every emails saying "HI, I need a knob for a Crosley > 515, it fits a 1/4" half round shaft. Here is a clear pix for reference". > THAT would do it, all in ONE email! > > I hope anyone looking for knobs sees this and reforms before they > inquire.... I am about ready to quit selling parts... its sure not as > profitable as restoring radios. > > and, dont say a website is the answer, there is no way I am going to shoot > pix of every knob I own... eventually I will have pix of the most common > ones though. > > so, please have mercy on the parts man... > > Mark Oppat > > > Article: 323255 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Germanium transistors From: Larry References: <4765-433B528B-143@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 20:19:41 -0400 "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de> wrote in news:dhhv8l$ull$05$1@news.t-online.com: > Larry, > you made my day! > > I'm rolling on ... ;-) > > Kind Regards, > Georg > Quick! Call my broker! NTE stock just shot up!....(c; -- Larry Article: 323256 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433C9126.B3CA7AB6@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 21:13:10 -0400 Mark, Maybe you should create a form with all the pertinent information you will need to find the correct know and email it to the buyer and ask him only to write back when he has all the information for you. Sal Brisindi http://www.tuberadios.com Article: 323257 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1128039161.164614.139850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Deco radio defined Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 01:15:56 GMT I'll have to think about where my 64 T-bird fits in all of this . . . -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com wrote in message news:1128039161.164614.139850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > Here's my yearly input to the definition of a deco radio, based on > official ebay definitions: > Any combination of lines, such as a box or rectangle (includes any > shape in existance): deco > Deco plus one angular line (such as a 45 deg. line): very deco > Very deco plus a hint of silver: very, very deco > Anything with chrome: extremely deco > Extremely deco plus a circular shape: hyper deco > Anything really deco: a radio > Hope this helps. > Dave > Article: 323258 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 21:34:14 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: Deco radio defined References: <1128039161.164614.139850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: <26785$433c9619$4232bd09$6048@COQUI.NET> pgonshor@aol.com wrote: > Here's my yearly input to the definition of a deco radio, based on > official ebay definitions: > Any combination of lines, such as a box or rectangle (includes any > shape in existance): deco > Deco plus one angular line (such as a 45 deg. line): very deco > Very deco plus a hint of silver: very, very deco > Anything with chrome: extremely deco > Extremely deco plus a circular shape: hyper deco > Anything really deco: a radio > Hope this helps. > Dave > How 'bout this one? http://www.sparkbench.com/xt11.jpg -Bill M Article: 323259 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "JS McAuley" References: <1128039161.164614.139850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <26785$433c9619$4232bd09$6048@COQUI.NET> Subject: Re: Deco radio defined Message-ID: <_Q0%e.5935$vw6.5104@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 01:49:46 GMT Damn! That looks like the ultra desirable modernnnn Deco! Scott. "Bill" wrote in message news:26785$433c9619$4232bd09$6048@COQUI.NET... > pgonshor@aol.com wrote: > > > Here's my yearly input to the definition of a deco radio, based on > > official ebay definitions: > > Any combination of lines, such as a box or rectangle (includes any > > shape in existance): deco > > Deco plus one angular line (such as a 45 deg. line): very deco > > Very deco plus a hint of silver: very, very deco > > Anything with chrome: extremely deco > > Extremely deco plus a circular shape: hyper deco > > Anything really deco: a radio > > Hope this helps. > > Dave > > > > How 'bout this one? > http://www.sparkbench.com/xt11.jpg > > -Bill M Article: 323260 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <433C9126.B3CA7AB6@optonline.net> Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 02:23:03 GMT "Sal Brisindi" wrote in message news:433C9126.B3CA7AB6@optonline.net... > Mark, > Maybe you should create a form with all the pertinent information > you will need > to find the correct know and email it to the buyer and ask him only > to write > back when he has all the information for you. > Might be easier when he gets that web site up. He could have the form online. jim menning Article: 323261 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: <1128047266.ccf439ccd0916a13b0f6dda112b188f1@teranews> Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:27:42 -0700 FWIW, I see a similar pattern, though not quite that severe - I sell faceplates (no, not for radios) via www.wbnoble.com and I have found that by getting my web page right (it took several tries), my need to go through long e-mail sequences has been greatly reduced - I generally get an inquiry on the order of "I think it will cost this much, how do I pay you", which is of course the kind of inqiry I like to answer. But, what really amazes me is that I get letters with just a check, no note or anything - so far (since I only do business via the web and don't publish my address) there has always been an email to match against, and so far I haven't messed up, but one day ...... so, another hint (besides the form letter) to all buyers - ALWAYS include a note saying what you want and with your shipping address. bill n "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:t4GdnbGmbpT466HeRVn-tA@comcast.com... > You all know, I have tons of parts here, like fresh stock capacitors, > rare controls, tubes, and, lots of knobs.But this parts business is just > driving me crazy lately. Here's why: > Article: 323262 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Bob in Phx" References: Subject: Re: BFO Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 20:36:57 -0700 I looked at the circuit and am wondering if you could do the same thing with a signal generator???? set it to 455 (if that's what the radio uses!!! Jus wondering Bob In phx.... "Syl" wrote in message news:PREZe.3006$%5.72187@weber.videotron.net... > "Daniele" a demandé > >> Anyone having a schematic for adding a BFO >> into a receiver? >> >> -- >> >> Daniele ^___^ >> http://www.tuberadio.it >> > > Here's one, simpler than that is close to impossible...;o) > http://www.dobe.com/wts/funk/bfomark.JPG > > A search using google and "add-on bfo schematic" gave a few usable links. > > Syl > > Article: 323263 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" References: <22174-4335F52B-382@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: OT POST Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 23:47:39 -0400 What's Off Topic (OT) about this post?? Article: 323264 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 23:50:04 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: BFO References: Message-ID: <9713e$433cb5ee$4232bd09$15644@COQUI.NET> Bob in Phx wrote: > I looked at the circuit and am wondering if you could do the same thing with > a signal generator???? set it to 455 (if that's what the radio uses!!! > > Jus wondering Sure you can. You don't even need to hook it up anywhere, just let it radiate at the level needed. -Bill Article: 323265 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 23:53:16 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: OT POST References: <22174-4335F52B-382@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Buck Frobisher wrote: > What's Off Topic (OT) about this post?? > > It doesn't mention ebay or George Bush :) -Bill Article: 323266 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" References: <1128039161.164614.139850@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Deco radio defined Message-ID: Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 23:49:03 -0400 "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:gl0%e.4753$zQ3.2091@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net... > I'll have to think about where my 64 T-bird fits in all of this . . . Why, you figure it's art deco style? Article: 323267 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: oil in auto radio Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 22:50:25 -0500 Message-ID: References: <2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net> On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:35:48 -0700 "Nelson Gietz" wrote: > What's the best way to rinse a coat of light oil out of an auto radio >chassis? I was thinking of giving it a light spray of mineral spirits AKA >paint thinner which leaves little or no residue. I'm afraid the oil with >the accumulated dirt (it's from a '54 Monarch) will provide leakage paths if >I don't get most of the oil out of it. Would paint thinner cause problems? Where did the oil come from? I understand the urge to make it all nice and clean, but it may be better off leaving a light film of oil there. Oil is an excellent insulator, so it's not actually a problem. It will catch any dust that comes it's way, however, and that dust can be a problem. If the dust and oil has not caused a problem in 50 years, I just leave it alone. I have to agree with the person who mentioned rust. It's really heartrending to clean something up really nice and shiny and then come back in a few months to find that now it's all rusty. - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 323268 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Mueller Subject: Re: Problem with my Zenith Transoceanic Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 21:27:17 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1127980728.695188.60370@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 00:58:48 -0700, docgorpon wrote: > Sometimes when I listen to my Transoceanic.. after about 45 minutes > I'll hear a pop. Then the volume slowly decreases until I have, > basically, silence (although I do hear some signal if I crank it all > the way up). Eventually the volume fades back up. What is the problem > here? Where does the pop come from? If it comes from the speaker, it's probably one of the small capacitors, especially if turning the set off and right back on makes it play again. If the pop is coming from the chassis itself and not through the speaker, then you have an intermittent short somewhere there is a fair amount of power. My first suspect would be the electrolytic filter capacitor; they do that sometimes. Since you didn't mention a cloud of smoke along with the pop, I would guess its the section that filters the filament voltage; it has a (relatively) large resistor in series that limits the current. Has the filter capacitor been replaced? If not, replace it. If it has, you may want to replace it again and be sure you have the correct voltage rating (or higher). This is especially true if it is a multi-section capacitor. If one section is going bad, the others may not be far behind. And if one of the high voltage sections shorts, there will definitely be smoke. Good luck. -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eportiz. Then replace nospam with sacbeemail. Article: 323269 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gordon Richmond Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: References: <1128053226.360345.56280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1128058323.135359.112820@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <0Kmdna2JMMIXRKHeRVn-tw@comcast.com> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 06:48:21 GMT Mark, As far as the knobs go, what about making up a diagram showing a few typical knobs and typical shafts, with the critical dimensions called out; like an engineering drawing? Customer would pick the shaft type >from a set of illustrations, a,b,c,d,whatever. Then insert numbers for the dimensions on the knob drawing: major diameter, minor diameter, shank length and diameter, etc. Attach a .jpg of this sheet to every e-mail you send out in response to a query for knobs, with a request to measure an existing knob at the points indicated, and choose a shaft type, PLUS, where possible, send back a good digital pic of the knob needed. Basically, you'd be giving the customer a form to fill out that would lead them by the hand through the process of dimensioning a knob. Gordon Richmond Article: 323270 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 03:49:26 -0600 Message-ID: References: you're a nice guy mark. unfortunately for you, you've ventured into sales if i were you i would seriously consider just getting back to the service end for all but those who send you a complete email from the get go or at most on the second try. before you start to hate it all. randy "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:t4GdnbGmbpT466HeRVn-tA@comcast.com... > You all know, I have tons of parts here, like fresh stock capacitors, > rare controls, tubes, and, lots of knobs.But this parts business is just > driving me crazy lately. Here's why: > > Instead of sending me an email stating clearly what they need, I get > about > 12 emails, all to sell one measly $10 knob. It goes like this: > > email #1: > Hi, I was referred by xxx and he says you sell knobs. do you? > > Me: yes. send me a pix or tell me what set > > Email #2 > Its brown and has swirls. goes on a Crosley. > > Me: OK, that narrows it down to about 1000 types. I need to know the > shaft > type, the size, and really, need a pix or model and brand of set. > > #3: I have attached a pix. > Me: that pix is so dark, and you shot it from the other room. take the > knob you want matched off and shoot it closer. > > #4 : OK heres a better shot > Me: OK now I see it. You only shot the front, what shaft does this fit? > > #5: 1/4" > Me: half round, serrated or full round??? > > #6: half round. > me: let me check > > #7 OK, I found it. $10 + $2 post > > (two weeks later) > #8 I need a knob for a Crosley 515 > Me: do you still want the knob I found for you 2 weeks ago? > > #9 oh, yeah, thats for this, I forgot. How much for it? > Me: $10+ $2 post. send money, here's my address, I take paypal, MO, > checks. > > #10: can you send me a pix of your knob so I can see it? > > ..........!!!!!!!!! > > and it just keeps on and on and on!!! I now get between 12 and 25 radio > emails per DAY. > > I try to be nice to folks but my patience just is gone now....Its getting > to > be 45mins or more, in emails and searching , just for one stinking > knob....almost no one every emails saying "HI, I need a knob for a > Crosley > 515, it fits a 1/4" half round shaft. Here is a clear pix for reference". > THAT would do it, all in ONE email! > > I hope anyone looking for knobs sees this and reforms before they > inquire.... I am about ready to quit selling parts... its sure not as > profitable as restoring radios. > > and, dont say a website is the answer, there is no way I am going to shoot > pix of every knob I own... eventually I will have pix of the most common > ones though. > > so, please have mercy on the parts man... > > Mark Oppat > > > Article: 323271 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 03:53:55 -0600 Message-ID: References: "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:uI1%e.1256$4h2.864@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Mark, > > This makes me feel better -- for awhile I thought I was the only one > running into these. and it just takes one of these guys to kill a weeks profits if you run your margins too thin. this is one reason why i defend people on ebay who charge what some call 'too much shipping and handling' fees. like it or not, you have to charge 'good customers' a little more money to cover guys like this. really good customers know this. randy Article: 323272 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:30:55 GMT Mark, Following this thread, it appears you don't want to set up a website because it's a ton of extra work to build and maintain. Bzzzztt!!! -- WRONG! Anything new that you haven't tried yet may seem complicated and cumbersome, but that's not the case. You might get a program like Front Page, and you may have to study it for a little while, and then it all clicks -- gee, that's easy! Once you've set up a website you'll love the fact that you have it. Years ago I was getting lots of e-mails, asking the same questions over and over. What is a conversion? How much does it cost? What do I do? How long does it take? They're all legitimate questions, but I was wearing myself out answering them over and over again. I started out by writing a few macros. With the click of a couple of keys I could get a paragraph or two explaining prices and turnaround times. This made things easier, but it was still a nuisance. After about a week of doing that I decided to put up a website. I checked into HTML software (remember this was about 8 years ago) and found all sorts of programs that had you writing HTML code. GEEZ, I remember the bad ol' days of writing code in MS-DOS, or even CP/M and BASIC! I couldn't believe that the general public was making websites by writing it all out in code! Shopping around I found Claris Home Page, and brought it home. This had several disks, a book that resembled the Yellow Pages, and I believe a few templates. Turns out that 99% of it was backgrounds and crap, and the program itself -- without the fluff -- was extremely simple. Although I wouldn't recommend it now (unless there's an updated version), I was using Claris up until last year. Today I use Front Page. There is only one bugaboo in the whole process, and that is uploading the website to the server. For this I use WS-FTP. There are various versions of this, and some of them are free and downloadable. The bugaboo is with setup -- you have to plug in all of the addresses and such. However once this is done, uploading is also a piece of cake. Front Page is a lot like Word -- in fact you can write websites in Word, but it's buggy. Go into Front Page and type what you want -- use whatever fonts, whatever sizes, and import your GIF or JPG graphics where you want them. You may also choose a background color, or put in a background pattern. One word of caution: don't go crazy with fonts; try to use the standard ones, such as Times New Roman or Arial. If you use something like Helvetica Light, more than likely the fellow viewing it doesn't have this font on his computer, and it will substitute something else -- and look funny. Once you've got your page the way you want it, go into WS-FTP. Copy all the files from the left column to the right column, and you're done! If you make an update, which is usually to the home page called index.html, just make the changes, go to WS-FTP, and copy index.html from the left to the right It only takes seconds. There is another way to write a website. Some places offer web hosting. One such is Sam's Club -- if you buy their super deluxe membership card, they provide web hosting. You go to your website using Netscape or Internet Explorer, go to ADMIN, and sign in. From there you can "write" your page online, using software on the site that you don't have to download. It's a little strange at first, but once you get used to it it's easy. The good news here is that you have unlimited help. Call those guys on the phone with your questions, and they'll walk you through it. In the case of Sam's, they are extremely helpful. The advantage of Sam's is the online shopping feature -- someone may click on an item to buy it, and I'll get an e-mail with the information. If you want an example of both ways to do it, take a look at mine. I actually have two websites, and believe it or not I have two home pages. Most of my stuff is on the side that's written in Front Page. The "other" home page, and the online shopping, is done with the Sam's Club hosting. You could, theoretically, put each and every knob on the online shopping site -- and let me tell you this is tedious work, but it's NOT mandatory by any stretch. However you might want to at least look at how it's done -- for example, click on the credit card logo on my first home page. You will be asked to fill out a form, which will be sent to me by secure e-mail. You could write a form like this which would ask for knob color, shaft length, etc. In any case, here are the URL's: http://www.taymanelectrical.com This is my normal home page. You may navigate anywhere from here, and you may notice the change in appearance if you click on the "Don't cut that dash" portion, which takes you to the online shopping page. Also from this home page, you can click on the credit card logo which will present you with a form to fill out. My "other" home page is at: http://www.taymanelectrical.samsbiz.com The reason I wrote the second page, I'm a Custom Autosound dealer. Strange, I sell very few stereos, but I indeed sell a lot of speakers -- with conversions. In any case I wrote this page for the purpose of linking it >from Custom Autosound's page. Notice the stereo conversions are downplayed -- they wouldn't like a link from their website to another site that features their competitor! Anyway, you're invited to take a look. No, this is not commercial, as I don't think the people on this newsgroup are interested in car stereos. So disregard the products -- look at the site itself. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:t4GdnbGmbpT466HeRVn-tA@comcast.com... > You all know, I have tons of parts here, like fresh stock capacitors, > rare controls, tubes, and, lots of knobs.But this parts business is just > driving me crazy lately. Here's why: > > Instead of sending me an email stating clearly what they need, I get > about > 12 emails, all to sell one measly $10 knob. It goes like this: > > email #1: > Hi, I was referred by xxx and he says you sell knobs. do you? > > Me: yes. send me a pix or tell me what set > > Email #2 > Its brown and has swirls. goes on a Crosley. > > Me: OK, that narrows it down to about 1000 types. I need to know the > shaft > type, the size, and really, need a pix or model and brand of set. > > #3: I have attached a pix. > Me: that pix is so dark, and you shot it from the other room. take the > knob you want matched off and shoot it closer. > > #4 : OK heres a better shot > Me: OK now I see it. You only shot the front, what shaft does this fit? > > #5: 1/4" > Me: half round, serrated or full round??? > > #6: half round. > me: let me check > > #7 OK, I found it. $10 + $2 post > > (two weeks later) > #8 I need a knob for a Crosley 515 > Me: do you still want the knob I found for you 2 weeks ago? > > #9 oh, yeah, thats for this, I forgot. How much for it? > Me: $10+ $2 post. send money, here's my address, I take paypal, MO, > checks. > > #10: can you send me a pix of your knob so I can see it? > > ..........!!!!!!!!! > > and it just keeps on and on and on!!! I now get between 12 and 25 radio > emails per DAY. > > I try to be nice to folks but my patience just is gone now....Its getting > to > be 45mins or more, in emails and searching , just for one stinking > knob....almost no one every emails saying "HI, I need a knob for a > Crosley > 515, it fits a 1/4" half round shaft. Here is a clear pix for reference". > THAT would do it, all in ONE email! > > I hope anyone looking for knobs sees this and reforms before they > inquire.... I am about ready to quit selling parts... its sure not as > profitable as restoring radios. > > and, dont say a website is the answer, there is no way I am going to shoot > pix of every knob I own... eventually I will have pix of the most common > ones though. > > so, please have mercy on the parts man... > > Mark Oppat > > > Article: 323273 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: David Stinson Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:37:09 GMT Gary Tayman wrote: >... At the end I make it clear that I'm happy to check the performance of > any radio at any time -- but they have to pay shipping. Returns have > stopped. Careful, Gary; about a year ago, I explained why I think requiring them to pay shipping on returns was necessary and some people got all huffy. But then, it's our money and time on the line for bad customers- not theirs. Right? Article: 323274 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:34:14 GMT One minor correction -- I mentioned clicking on the "Don't cut that dash!" portion. I recently removed that phrase -- but you'll see the Custom Autosound stereo with the words "Online shopping." -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:Pl9%e.1347$4h2.662@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Mark, > > Following this thread, it appears you don't want to set up a website > because it's a ton of extra work to build and maintain. > > Bzzzztt!!! -- WRONG! Anything new that you haven't tried yet may seem > complicated and cumbersome, but that's not the case. You might get a > program like Front Page, and you may have to study it for a little while, > and then it all clicks -- gee, that's easy! Once you've set up a website > you'll love the fact that you have it. > > Years ago I was getting lots of e-mails, asking the same questions over > and over. What is a conversion? How much does it cost? What do I do? > How long does it take? They're all legitimate questions, but I was > wearing myself out answering them over and over again. > > I started out by writing a few macros. With the click of a couple of keys > I could get a paragraph or two explaining prices and turnaround times. > This made things easier, but it was still a nuisance. After about a week > of doing that I decided to put up a website. > > I checked into HTML software (remember this was about 8 years ago) and > found all sorts of programs that had you writing HTML code. GEEZ, I > remember the bad ol' days of writing code in MS-DOS, or even CP/M and > BASIC! I couldn't believe that the general public was making websites by > writing it all out in code! Shopping around I found Claris Home Page, and > brought it home. This had several disks, a book that resembled the Yellow > Pages, and I believe a few templates. Turns out that 99% of it was > backgrounds and crap, and the program itself -- without the fluff -- was > extremely simple. Although I wouldn't recommend it now (unless there's an > updated version), I was using Claris up until last year. Today I use > Front Page. > > There is only one bugaboo in the whole process, and that is uploading the > website to the server. For this I use WS-FTP. There are various versions > of this, and some of them are free and downloadable. The bugaboo is with > setup -- you have to plug in all of the addresses and such. However once > this is done, uploading is also a piece of cake. > > Front Page is a lot like Word -- in fact you can write websites in Word, > but it's buggy. Go into Front Page and type what you want -- use whatever > fonts, whatever sizes, and import your GIF or JPG graphics where you want > them. You may also choose a background color, or put in a background > pattern. One word of caution: don't go crazy with fonts; try to use the > standard ones, such as Times New Roman or Arial. If you use something > like Helvetica Light, more than likely the fellow viewing it doesn't have > this font on his computer, and it will substitute something else -- and > look funny. > > Once you've got your page the way you want it, go into WS-FTP. Copy all > the files from the left column to the right column, and you're done! If > you make an update, which is usually to the home page called index.html, > just make the changes, go to WS-FTP, and copy index.html from the left to > the right It only takes seconds. > > There is another way to write a website. Some places offer web hosting. > One such is Sam's Club -- if you buy their super deluxe membership card, > they provide web hosting. You go to your website using Netscape or > Internet Explorer, go to ADMIN, and sign in. From there you can "write" > your page online, using software on the site that you don't have to > download. It's a little strange at first, but once you get used to it > it's easy. The good news here is that you have unlimited help. Call > those guys on the phone with your questions, and they'll walk you through > it. In the case of Sam's, they are extremely helpful. The advantage of > Sam's is the online shopping feature -- someone may click on an item to > buy it, and I'll get an e-mail with the information. > > If you want an example of both ways to do it, take a look at mine. I > actually have two websites, and believe it or not I have two home pages. > Most of my stuff is on the side that's written in Front Page. The "other" > home page, and the online shopping, is done with the Sam's Club hosting. > You could, theoretically, put each and every knob on the online shopping > site -- and let me tell you this is tedious work, but it's NOT mandatory > by any stretch. However you might want to at least look at how it's > done -- for example, click on the credit card logo on my first home page. > You will be asked to fill out a form, which will be sent to me by secure > e-mail. You could write a form like this which would ask for knob color, > shaft length, etc. > > In any case, here are the URL's: > > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > This is my normal home page. You may navigate anywhere from here, and you > may notice the change in appearance if you click on the "Don't cut that > dash" portion, which takes you to the online shopping page. Also from > this home page, you can click on the credit card logo which will present > you with a form to fill out. > > My "other" home page is at: > > http://www.taymanelectrical.samsbiz.com > > The reason I wrote the second page, I'm a Custom Autosound dealer. > Strange, I sell very few stereos, but I indeed sell a lot of speakers -- > with conversions. In any case I wrote this page for the purpose of > linking it from Custom Autosound's page. Notice the stereo conversions > are downplayed -- they wouldn't like a link from their website to another > site that features their competitor! > > Anyway, you're invited to take a look. No, this is not commercial, as I > don't think the people on this newsgroup are interested in car stereos. > So disregard the products -- look at the site itself. > > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > > "Mark Oppat" wrote in message > news:t4GdnbGmbpT466HeRVn-tA@comcast.com... >> You all know, I have tons of parts here, like fresh stock capacitors, >> rare controls, tubes, and, lots of knobs.But this parts business is >> just >> driving me crazy lately. Here's why: >> >> Instead of sending me an email stating clearly what they need, I get >> about >> 12 emails, all to sell one measly $10 knob. It goes like this: >> >> email #1: >> Hi, I was referred by xxx and he says you sell knobs. do you? >> >> Me: yes. send me a pix or tell me what set >> >> Email #2 >> Its brown and has swirls. goes on a Crosley. >> >> Me: OK, that narrows it down to about 1000 types. I need to know the >> shaft >> type, the size, and really, need a pix or model and brand of set. >> >> #3: I have attached a pix. >> Me: that pix is so dark, and you shot it from the other room. take the >> knob you want matched off and shoot it closer. >> >> #4 : OK heres a better shot >> Me: OK now I see it. You only shot the front, what shaft does this >> fit? >> >> #5: 1/4" >> Me: half round, serrated or full round??? >> >> #6: half round. >> me: let me check >> >> #7 OK, I found it. $10 + $2 post >> >> (two weeks later) >> #8 I need a knob for a Crosley 515 >> Me: do you still want the knob I found for you 2 weeks ago? >> >> #9 oh, yeah, thats for this, I forgot. How much for it? >> Me: $10+ $2 post. send money, here's my address, I take paypal, MO, >> checks. >> >> #10: can you send me a pix of your knob so I can see it? >> >> ..........!!!!!!!!! >> >> and it just keeps on and on and on!!! I now get between 12 and 25 radio >> emails per DAY. >> >> I try to be nice to folks but my patience just is gone now....Its getting >> to >> be 45mins or more, in emails and searching , just for one stinking >> knob....almost no one every emails saying "HI, I need a knob for a >> Crosley >> 515, it fits a 1/4" half round shaft. Here is a clear pix for >> reference". >> THAT would do it, all in ONE email! >> >> I hope anyone looking for knobs sees this and reforms before they >> inquire.... I am about ready to quit selling parts... its sure not as >> profitable as restoring radios. >> >> and, dont say a website is the answer, there is no way I am going to >> shoot >> pix of every knob I own... eventually I will have pix of the most common >> ones though. >> >> so, please have mercy on the parts man... >> >> Mark Oppat >> >> >> > > Article: 323275 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Robert Murrell" References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:39:57 GMT I checked the NTE site and found the 100 and 102 (plain), which should fit my needs. I need the TO-5 case, though. I tried the 2SC type (TO-1 case?), but its too tall because of the sockets. The back will not fit. "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:VY2dnbxOysAcR6HeRVn-vw@comcast.com... > not alot, actually. ECG/NTE has the 100, 102A, and only a couple other > germaninum PNP types in the TO-5 case or similar small package. > > Rob, if you want a couple old Toshiba pulls, I have some that would be > ECG102A equiv. > > Mark Oppat > > > "Gary Tayman" wrote in message > news:M5H_e.4857$oc.3409@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... >> Uh, what are the transistor types? That might give us a clue. >> >> A lot of replacement transistors are still available for germanium types. >> >> >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical >> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars >> http://www.taymanelectrical.com >> >> >> "Robert Murrell" wrote in message >> news:0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net... >> >I have a two transistor boy's radio that I need two gemanium RF > transistors >> >for, in TO-5 cans. Does anyone have a source for them? >> > >> > Robert Murrell >> > >> > >> >> >> > > > Article: 323276 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Germanium transistors From: Larry References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 08:29:17 -0400 While we're talking about Japanese transistors, let me point you guys to Pacific Semiconductor that I buy Japanese transistors and ICs from. http://www.pacificsemi.com/ Pacific Semiconductors Inc. #371 - 2416 Main Street Vancouver, BC V5T 3E2 Canada Email: info@pacificsemi.com Tel: 604-874-7111 Fax: 604-873-6090 FOR ORDER CONFIRMATION and PAYMENT ONLY: 1-800-663-6731 (in US/CANADA) They've been able to pull some rabbits out of a hat to get me really hard- to-get Japanese semiconductors for obsolete organs and keyboards. Ordering by email works great. Minimum order is $25, though. I just order lots of spares. A power amp stereo IC I really needed was only $4 from here. The organ company wanted $95 for ONE! The minimum order and shipping expense were easy. I just ordered 7 of them...(c; I got lotsa spares of many power amp ICs, now. "Mark Oppat" wrote in news:VY2dnbxOysAcR6HeRVn-vw@comcast.com: > not alot, actually. ECG/NTE has the 100, 102A, and only a couple > other germaninum PNP types in the TO-5 case or similar small package. > > Rob, if you want a couple old Toshiba pulls, I have some that would > be ECG102A equiv. > > Mark Oppat > Article: 323277 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: RCA transistors... need help ID'ing From: Larry References: Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 08:36:18 -0400 "Mark Oppat" wrote in news:gs6dncooGJnrRaHeRVn- qQ@comcast.com: > The part # is 903223, or V903223 Wasn't that the part number of the left rear muffler bracket to the 1957 Lincoln Landau 4-door hardtop with the rear seat heater?? I think I remember that number....(c; -- Larry Article: 323278 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Buck Frobisher" References: <22174-4335F52B-382@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net> Subject: Re: OT POST Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 08:39:41 -0400 ROTFLMAO!!! "Bill" wrote in message news:a3193$433cb6ad$4232bd09$15644@COQUI.NET... > Buck Frobisher wrote: > >> What's Off Topic (OT) about this post?? > > > It doesn't mention ebay or George Bush :) > > -Bill Article: 323279 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Anyone have a spare piece of phenoic laying around? From: "Haggis" telus.net> References: <1128086020.917352.73770@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 14:25:26 GMT On 30-Sep-2005, "Peter Wieck" wrote: > Hey, have you tried a sign shop? They stock black laminated plastic > which for all the world looks like phenolic at a distance. The > advantage is that when you engrave it, the "white" is built in. My > office name sign is black, about 1/8 thick (maybe a little better) and > is pretty stiff. It has that same 'machined surface' look as the older > bakelite panels. I have seen the stuff in 48" by 48" panels... > > Peter Wieck > Wyncote, PA I've posted a picture on the binaries showing what I believe to be the type of material Peter mentions. Easy to work with; the thickness can be 'adjusted' with additional layers, which generally can't be seen. Not for the purists, agreed, but will any of us live long enough to gather all the material we want? :-). Haggis. Article: 323280 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 15:07:03 GMT I don't like the idea of charging for what would normally be warranty service, which is why I've been reluctant to do so. However I'm finding that others indeed do this, probably for the same reason. Basically what I have written in there, is that I'll be happy to check any radio for the cost of return shipping. The shipping cost will be waived if, at our discretion, there proves to be a problem with the radio. Again, all I want is for customers to work with me when they experience a problem. A fully tested new radio has just been installed into a car whose wiring is 60-70 years old, and if everything isn't perfect they immediately assume the radio is defective. I ask them to measure voltages in a couple of places, and they argue -- by the way, the worst offenders are dealers, so they should know how to use a voltmeter. They know everything, so I can't tell them anything. So I get the radio back with a nastygram, it works perfectly on the bench, and in every case, sooner or later the problem is indeed found to be in the car's wiring. Bottom line is that I'm happy to stand behind the product, but I won't take the losses when the problem is obviously outside of my control or responsibility. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "David Stinson" wrote in message news:Fr9%e.1351$4h2.777@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Gary Tayman wrote: > >>... At the end I make it clear that I'm happy to check the performance of >>any radio at any time -- but they have to pay shipping. Returns have >>stopped. > > Careful, Gary; about a year ago, I explained why I think requiring them > to pay shipping on returns was necessary and some people got > all huffy. But then, it's our money and time on the line for > bad customers- not theirs. Right? Article: 323281 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: Subject: Re: RCA transistors... need help ID'ing Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 16:03:30 GMT Mark, You're right; there is no cross-reference, not even in my old SK book. This leads me to believe this may not be the transistor number -- but what is? -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Mark Oppat" wrote in message news:gs6dncooGJnrRaHeRVn-qQ@comcast.com... >I have a bunch of NOS RCA transisitors, possibly 350 or so, all new in > factory box lots. The part # is 903223, or V903223. another # is 2742 > with > a possible M after that. > They are TO-5 case, and PNP, it seems since resistance E-B and C-B runs > reverse of a NPN ECG 123A. > > anyone here can ID these? they are not in the ECG cross ref. I would > date > them from mid 60's. > > I can send samples to anyone who could test them for any further > characteristics. You can keep the samples. > > Mark Oppat > > > Article: 323282 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "jim menning" References: <1128095939.129214.153920@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Here's Something You Don't See Every Day Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 16:25:17 GMT "Geoff" wrote in message news:1128095939.129214.153920@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... >A Teleavia television in the UK. Anyone think this set is worth that > much? > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6213307163 > > Regards, > Geoff > Riverside, CA > I do. If it was local, I'd certainly consider it. jim menning Article: 323283 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433D70E4.34155300@earthlink.net> From: "Michael A. Terrell" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 17:06:36 GMT Gary Tayman wrote: > > I don't like the idea of charging for what would normally be warranty > service, which is why I've been reluctant to do so. However I'm finding > that others indeed do this, probably for the same reason. > > Basically what I have written in there, is that I'll be happy to check any > radio for the cost of return shipping. The shipping cost will be waived if, > at our discretion, there proves to be a problem with the radio. > > Again, all I want is for customers to work with me when they experience a > problem. A fully tested new radio has just been installed into a car whose > wiring is 60-70 years old, and if everything isn't perfect they immediately > assume the radio is defective. I ask them to measure voltages in a couple > of places, and they argue -- by the way, the worst offenders are dealers, so > they should know how to use a voltmeter. They know everything, so I can't > tell them anything. So I get the radio back with a nastygram, it works > perfectly on the bench, and in every case, sooner or later the problem is > indeed found to be in the car's wiring. > > Bottom line is that I'm happy to stand behind the product, but I won't take > the losses when the problem is obviously outside of my control or > responsibility. > > -- > Gary E. Tayman One way to handle problem dealers is to charge them a little more up front. If they question the difference, tell them that every time you've dealt with them, they have caused you extra work and you have to cover the extra costs but if they can find the problems with the car's wiring without your help the extra charge will be waived on the next order. Another approach would be to write a simple guide to troubleshoot the wiring before connecting the radio, with a warning that if it is damaged due to their neglect they will have to pay for repairs. Also, include a "QA" check off sheet with each job to indicate that you have checked everything before you ship them their radio. -- ? Michael A. Terrell Central Florida Article: 323284 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 13:10:53 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: <433D70E4.34155300@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <56da$433d719f$4232bd8e$2652@COQUI.NET> Michael A. Terrell wrote: > If they question the difference, tell them that every time > you've dealt with them, they have caused you extra work :( -Bill Article: 323285 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:26:46 -0600 Message-ID: References: <433D70E4.34155300@earthlink.net> <56da$433d719f$4232bd8e$2652@COQUI.NET> "Bill" wrote in message news:56da$433d719f$4232bd8e$2652@COQUI.NET... > Michael A. Terrell wrote: > >> If they question the difference, tell them that every time >> you've dealt with them, they have caused you extra work > > :( better to just tell them to piss off entirely than try and set up a working relationship with those conditions... randy Article: 323286 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:31:12 -0600 Message-ID: References: 'setting up a website' is one thing. setting one up that has any hope of eliminating the 'moron' factor is another entirely. and has nothing to do with html. you may have built a website that works for you and the few parts you stock (although i still see under antenas that you simply say email me for details). but this isnt nearly good enough for someone trying to eliminate emails while trying to sell hundreds/thousands of unique vintage radio parts. in short, the coding of the htlm and the uploading of the files to the web is the LEAST important and EASIEST of the tasks involved in setting up a proper site. the simple act of photographing the knobs will take much longer than it will to code the pages. then you gotta catalog them in the database you designed (which is the ONLY way you are going to keep this much inventory straight), etc etc etc... randy "Gary Tayman" wrote in message news:Pl9%e.1347$4h2.662@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net... > Mark, > > Following this thread, it appears you don't want to set up a website > because it's a ton of extra work to build and maintain. > > Bzzzztt!!! -- WRONG! Anything new that you haven't tried yet may seem > complicated and cumbersome, but that's not the case. You might get a > program like Front Page, and you may have to study it for a little while, > and then it all clicks -- gee, that's easy! Once you've set up a website > you'll love the fact that you have it. > > Years ago I was getting lots of e-mails, asking the same questions over > and over. What is a conversion? How much does it cost? What do I do? > How long does it take? They're all legitimate questions, but I was > wearing myself out answering them over and over again. > > I started out by writing a few macros. With the click of a couple of keys > I could get a paragraph or two explaining prices and turnaround times. > This made things easier, but it was still a nuisance. After about a week > of doing that I decided to put up a website. > > I checked into HTML software (remember this was about 8 years ago) and > found all sorts of programs that had you writing HTML code. GEEZ, I > remember the bad ol' days of writing code in MS-DOS, or even CP/M and > BASIC! I couldn't believe that the general public was making websites by > writing it all out in code! Shopping around I found Claris Home Page, and > brought it home. This had several disks, a book that resembled the Yellow > Pages, and I believe a few templates. Turns out that 99% of it was > backgrounds and crap, and the program itself -- without the fluff -- was > extremely simple. Although I wouldn't recommend it now (unless there's an > updated version), I was using Claris up until last year. Today I use > Front Page. > > There is only one bugaboo in the whole process, and that is uploading the > website to the server. For this I use WS-FTP. There are various versions > of this, and some of them are free and downloadable. The bugaboo is with > setup -- you have to plug in all of the addresses and such. However once > this is done, uploading is also a piece of cake. > > Front Page is a lot like Word -- in fact you can write websites in Word, > but it's buggy. Go into Front Page and type what you want -- use whatever > fonts, whatever sizes, and import your GIF or JPG graphics where you want > them. You may also choose a background color, or put in a background > pattern. One word of caution: don't go crazy with fonts; try to use the > standard ones, such as Times New Roman or Arial. If you use something > like Helvetica Light, more than likely the fellow viewing it doesn't have > this font on his computer, and it will substitute something else -- and > look funny. > > Once you've got your page the way you want it, go into WS-FTP. Copy all > the files from the left column to the right column, and you're done! If > you make an update, which is usually to the home page called index.html, > just make the changes, go to WS-FTP, and copy index.html from the left to > the right It only takes seconds. > > There is another way to write a website. Some places offer web hosting. > One such is Sam's Club -- if you buy their super deluxe membership card, > they provide web hosting. You go to your website using Netscape or > Internet Explorer, go to ADMIN, and sign in. From there you can "write" > your page online, using software on the site that you don't have to > download. It's a little strange at first, but once you get used to it > it's easy. The good news here is that you have unlimited help. Call > those guys on the phone with your questions, and they'll walk you through > it. In the case of Sam's, they are extremely helpful. The advantage of > Sam's is the online shopping feature -- someone may click on an item to > buy it, and I'll get an e-mail with the information. > > If you want an example of both ways to do it, take a look at mine. I > actually have two websites, and believe it or not I have two home pages. > Most of my stuff is on the side that's written in Front Page. The "other" > home page, and the online shopping, is done with the Sam's Club hosting. > You could, theoretically, put each and every knob on the online shopping > site -- and let me tell you this is tedious work, but it's NOT mandatory > by any stretch. However you might want to at least look at how it's > done -- for example, click on the credit card logo on my first home page. > You will be asked to fill out a form, which will be sent to me by secure > e-mail. You could write a form like this which would ask for knob color, > shaft length, etc. > > In any case, here are the URL's: > > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > This is my normal home page. You may navigate anywhere from here, and you > may notice the change in appearance if you click on the "Don't cut that > dash" portion, which takes you to the online shopping page. Also from > this home page, you can click on the credit card logo which will present > you with a form to fill out. > > My "other" home page is at: > > http://www.taymanelectrical.samsbiz.com > > The reason I wrote the second page, I'm a Custom Autosound dealer. > Strange, I sell very few stereos, but I indeed sell a lot of speakers -- > with conversions. In any case I wrote this page for the purpose of > linking it from Custom Autosound's page. Notice the stereo conversions > are downplayed -- they wouldn't like a link from their website to another > site that features their competitor! > > Anyway, you're invited to take a look. No, this is not commercial, as I > don't think the people on this newsgroup are interested in car stereos. > So disregard the products -- look at the site itself. > > > -- > Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical > Sound Solutions For Classic Cars > http://www.taymanelectrical.com > > > "Mark Oppat" wrote in message > news:t4GdnbGmbpT466HeRVn-tA@comcast.com... >> You all know, I have tons of parts here, like fresh stock capacitors, >> rare controls, tubes, and, lots of knobs.But this parts business is >> just >> driving me crazy lately. Here's why: >> >> Instead of sending me an email stating clearly what they need, I get >> about >> 12 emails, all to sell one measly $10 knob. It goes like this: >> >> email #1: >> Hi, I was referred by xxx and he says you sell knobs. do you? >> >> Me: yes. send me a pix or tell me what set >> >> Email #2 >> Its brown and has swirls. goes on a Crosley. >> >> Me: OK, that narrows it down to about 1000 types. I need to know the >> shaft >> type, the size, and really, need a pix or model and brand of set. >> >> #3: I have attached a pix. >> Me: that pix is so dark, and you shot it from the other room. take the >> knob you want matched off and shoot it closer. >> >> #4 : OK heres a better shot >> Me: OK now I see it. You only shot the front, what shaft does this >> fit? >> >> #5: 1/4" >> Me: half round, serrated or full round??? >> >> #6: half round. >> me: let me check >> >> #7 OK, I found it. $10 + $2 post >> >> (two weeks later) >> #8 I need a knob for a Crosley 515 >> Me: do you still want the knob I found for you 2 weeks ago? >> >> #9 oh, yeah, thats for this, I forgot. How much for it? >> Me: $10+ $2 post. send money, here's my address, I take paypal, MO, >> checks. >> >> #10: can you send me a pix of your knob so I can see it? >> >> ..........!!!!!!!!! >> >> and it just keeps on and on and on!!! I now get between 12 and 25 radio >> emails per DAY. >> >> I try to be nice to folks but my patience just is gone now....Its getting >> to >> be 45mins or more, in emails and searching , just for one stinking >> knob....almost no one every emails saying "HI, I need a knob for a >> Crosley >> 515, it fits a 1/4" half round shaft. Here is a clear pix for >> reference". >> THAT would do it, all in ONE email! >> >> I hope anyone looking for knobs sees this and reforms before they >> inquire.... I am about ready to quit selling parts... its sure not as >> profitable as restoring radios. >> >> and, dont say a website is the answer, there is no way I am going to >> shoot >> pix of every knob I own... eventually I will have pix of the most common >> ones though. >> >> so, please have mercy on the parts man... >> >> Mark Oppat >> >> >> > > Article: 323287 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: Any Tricks To Measuring Belt Length? Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 12:08:58 -0600 Message-ID: References: <1128101587.579521.124230@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> if you use a slip knot, you should be able to get a string pretty darn close. pull it tight and put a drop of super glue on the knot to hold it, then cut the string and measure the length. if the belts are rubber (i.e. stretch) i'd subtract 5% of the length. randy wrote in message news:1128101587.579521.124230@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >I have a few misc. things sitting around here that need drive belts > (phonos and an 8 track player or two). www.ceitron.com has good prices > on belts but the minimum order is $20. They sell other stuff too so I > may be able to scrape up an order with them but I don't plan on > ordering from them often so I'd like to get the belts right the first > time. > > Starting with no belt I could run a string along the belt path and > measure the length. Is it proper to subtract a bit from the measured > length to ensure the new belt would be tight. If yes, how much? > > I also need some phono idlers redone. Will Bill Turner be back in > action anytime soon or should I go with someone else? > > Thanks for the help. > Article: 323288 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <433D70E4.34155300@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 18:29:31 GMT You've got it slightly wrong -- actually I give dealers a discount. Dealers generally like what I do, and cause very little trouble. Most of them give me repeat business and are very happy with what they receive. The problem is with end-user customers who don't want to install the radios themselves, so they go to a dealer to have them do it. Some of these dealers haven't a clue about what they're doing, and don't bother reading instructions -- yet when they call me for advice, they won't listen to what I tell them to do because "we've been doing this for 25 years; we know what we're doing." -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message news:433D70E4.34155300@earthlink.net... > Gary Tayman wrote: >> >> I don't like the idea of charging for what would normally be warranty >> service, which is why I've been reluctant to do so. However I'm finding >> that others indeed do this, probably for the same reason. >> >> Basically what I have written in there, is that I'll be happy to check >> any >> radio for the cost of return shipping. The shipping cost will be waived >> if, >> at our discretion, there proves to be a problem with the radio. >> >> Again, all I want is for customers to work with me when they experience a >> problem. A fully tested new radio has just been installed into a car >> whose >> wiring is 60-70 years old, and if everything isn't perfect they >> immediately >> assume the radio is defective. I ask them to measure voltages in a >> couple >> of places, and they argue -- by the way, the worst offenders are dealers, >> so >> they should know how to use a voltmeter. They know everything, so I >> can't >> tell them anything. So I get the radio back with a nastygram, it works >> perfectly on the bench, and in every case, sooner or later the problem is >> indeed found to be in the car's wiring. >> >> Bottom line is that I'm happy to stand behind the product, but I won't >> take >> the losses when the problem is obviously outside of my control or >> responsibility. >> >> -- >> Gary E. Tayman > > > One way to handle problem dealers is to charge them a little more up > front. If they question the difference, tell them that every time > you've dealt with them, they have caused you extra work and you have to > cover the extra costs but if they can find the problems with the car's > wiring without your help the extra charge will be waived on the next > order. Another approach would be to write a simple guide to > troubleshoot the wiring before connecting the radio, with a warning that > if it is damaged due to their neglect they will have to pay for > repairs. Also, include a "QA" check off sheet with each job to indicate > that you have checked everything before you ship them their radio. > > > -- > ? > > Michael A. Terrell > Central Florida Article: 323289 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Larry Fowkes" References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 15:16:49 -0400 Message-ID: <433d900d$0$14233$2c56edd9@news.cablerocket.com> I would have to choose my Philco 38-116 console followed by my Grunnow 1181 console. They both sound great with enough audio to rattle the windows if so desired. In the tombstone/cathedral category I have a definite affinity for my RCA T10-1, and I do in fact spend a lot of time with that radio running while I am working on the computer. My favorite portable is hands down my Transo B600. I run it exclusively on a battery pack. I suspect an 8G may sound better given it's push pull output but I have not been able to add one to my collection yet. At work I listen to a Newcomb AV-750 AM/FM. It is a pretty institutional looking radio but is an excellent performer in this electrically noisy environment. Larry Fowkes Article: 323290 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: novatech@eskimo.com (Steven Swift) Subject: Re: Protecting battery tubes Date: 30 Sep 2005 19:54:59 GMT Message-ID: References: <3d47d$4334c363$4232bd28$26669@COQUI.NET> Bill writes: >I haven't managed to do it yet... but this evening I caught myself in >the process of inadvertently connecting a 90v B battery to my 1.5v >filaments on the terminal strip in back of the radio. I use a resistor in series with the B-battery (like a 1k). -- Steven D. Swift, novatech@eskimo.com, http://www.novatech-instr.com NOVATECH INSTRUMENTS, INC. P.O. Box 55997 206.301.8986, fax 206.363.4367 Seattle, Washington 98155 USA Article: 323291 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Gilbert Bates Subject: Re: 7868s to 6L6GC/5881s Message-ID: <0c6rj1heurkfhf3k3v87eeld8bnr1gknv5@4ax.com> References: <1128105068.370145.115730@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 20:07:29 GMT On 30 Sep 2005 11:31:08 -0700, bc191f@gmail.com wrote: >Largely known that this works when 7868 amp resocketed right > > AND > >grid bias changed from -20V (for 35W / 450plate /370 screen) to -30V / >etc. on the 6L6s (5881s). > >I just did this on a S35 Precision Electronics (Grommes) 35W PA* Was >making 6W before clipping with toasted-looking 7868s. Now makes 35W >but > > CATCH THIS > >much higher gain settings needed. 6L6s want 70V grid-grid while 7868s >just need 40V in this, AB1 operations. Have never seen this important >gotcha. Here's hoping your driver can cut it > > Marty > >*anyone still have the owner's pamphlet? Since grid bias voltage follows hand-in-hand with the peak to peak drive requirements, why does this suprise you? Guess you could live with reduced power output from the 6l6's if nothing in the driver stage changed. On the other hand, you could alter the plate voltage downward and reduce the grid bias voltage needs too. Many other combinations exists when you understand what your doing...and it sounds like you do! Good luck! Article: 323292 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Robert Murrell" References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> <44WdnQVBXvG4uKDeRVn-pw@comcast.com> Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Message-ID: <04i%e.1734$OH3.1175@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 21:26:20 GMT I'd rather not. The sockets came with the radio. To me, that would be like removing the Audion sockets from a DeForrest and replacing them with 7-pin miniature sockets. An extreme example, but part of my psyche (or is it psychotic)? "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:44WdnQVBXvG4uKDeRVn-pw@comcast.com... >> I checked the NTE site and found the 100 and 102 (plain), which should >> fit >> my needs. I need the TO-5 case, though. I tried the 2SC type (TO-1 > case?), >> but its too tall because of the sockets. The back will not fit. > > Unsolder the sockets and solder the transistor in directly. > > Article: 323293 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433DAD05.B042B592@sympatico.ca> From: John Stewart Subject: Re: 7868s to 6L6GC/5881s References: <1128105068.370145.115730@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <0c6rj1heurkfhf3k3v87eeld8bnr1gknv5@4ax.com> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 17:24:22 -0400 Gilbert Bates wrote: > On 30 Sep 2005 11:31:08 -0700, bc191f@gmail.com wrote: > > >Largely known that this works when 7868 amp resocketed right > > > > AND > > > >grid bias changed from -20V (for 35W / 450plate /370 screen) to -30V / > >etc. on the 6L6s (5881s). > > > >I just did this on a S35 Precision Electronics (Grommes) 35W PA* Was > >making 6W before clipping with toasted-looking 7868s. Now makes 35W > >but > > > > CATCH THIS > > > >much higher gain settings needed. 6L6s want 70V grid-grid while 7868s > >just need 40V in this, AB1 operations. Have never seen this important > >gotcha. Here's hoping your driver can cut it > > > > Marty > > > >*anyone still have the owner's pamphlet? > > Since grid bias voltage follows hand-in-hand with the peak to peak > drive requirements, why does this suprise you? Guess you could live > with reduced power output from the 6l6's if nothing in the driver > stage changed. On the other hand, you could alter the plate voltage > downward and reduce the grid bias voltage needs too. Many other > combinations exists when you understand what your doing...and it > sounds like you do! Good luck! If there is a full loop NFB connexion part of the gain reduction will be compensated. But the drive problem is still there. Cheers, John Stewart Article: 323294 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 22:09:39 GMT Nothing special about the sound quality, but I often listen to the Knight 2000 receiver that's sitting next to my bench. Why? I don't know, because it's there. I've got a Crosley Jeweler's radio above my computer, along with a Philco 54 that I refuse to plug in until I've given it a complete recap. The Crosley (AA5) is fine, but I get static when the computer is on so I generally don't use it much. My AK-60 is sitting on the other side of the shop. Most likely when I get it going I'll use it instead of the Knight. None of these radios have FM, but I've got an FM tuner and my AMT-3000. Might be rather interesting to hear what the "greatest hits of the 80's, 90's, and today" would sound like on an Atwater-Kent! Come to think of it, the AMT-3000 allows a full 20-20,000Hz bandwidth. I don't know what the AK allows, and it's well known that these are not the best sounding radios ever made anyway, but it'll be interesting to hear it -- with or without that quality condenser. On my bench in the garage I've got a Crosley repro -- that looks like a Zenith, Bakelite color with the ivory pushbuttons. I figure why take a real one out there, just to get filthy dirty. If you're looking for my vote on what's the best sounding radio out there, in the car department I'd have to go with an early 50's Buick. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com "Peter Wieck" wrote in message news:1128106760.360625.158380@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... >I expect that many here have or listen to one or two 'favorite' radios > all the time. Speaking for myself, I choose (or chose) these radios for > their sound often more than for any other reason. So, this is an > informal and voluntary poll on which radios do you think sound the best > from direct personal experience. There is no 'why' to it, unless you > care to explain, and certainly no need to justify one choice or > another. > > I would have liked to except Exotics from the poll, but just now > decided not to, as some of you may have exotics in the inventory, but > choose to listen to something else instead. That might be an > interesting 'why' if anyone wishes to explain. > > So, on a regular basis, what do you consider the best sounding radio > that you listen to or have listened to for long periods. In the > following categories: > > Console > Tombstone/Cathedral/Tabletop > Portable > Add your cagegory (Chairside, for instance) > > Then, as there is a good deal of audio crossover here, what would you > consider to be the best combination of audio equipment, to about 1965, > or so to allow for stereo? (My picks include NO exotic equipment, but > entirely off-the-shelf consumer-grade stuff.) > > My picks are: > > Console: RCA 29K2. I do not have one now, but I did briefly. That > followed closely by my Zenith 9S262, followed by my Zenith 760 > > Tombstone/tabletop: Crosley 715, followed by my Zenith 808 > > Portable: Stromberg-Carlson AWP, followed by my Zenith B600 > > Chairside: Coronado 690B Glass-top. AM-only, but a big, honking speaker > and great sound. That followed by my Motorola 6A. I have two Zenith > chairsides, they pale next to these two. > > As to Audio, backing up from AR-3a speakers to the Scott LK-150 amp to > the Dynaco PAS-3 and FM-3 pre-amp and tuner respectively. The Dynaco > ST-70 is nice, but lacks the crispness of the LK-150. > > The above items are those that I can listen to for hours without > fatigue. I remember considering (briefly) keeping the RCA just for the > sound, but it was just SO ugly and SO large that it was too much in an > environment pressed for space. The Zeniths are no slouches, so there > are really no regrets. > > Your thoughts? This is a poll of personal taste, only, not meant to be > anything else. > Article: 323295 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Gary Tayman" References: <1128101587.579521.124230@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Subject: Re: Any Tricks To Measuring Belt Length? Message-ID: <2Ni%e.5103$zQ3.2073@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 22:14:22 GMT Our local parts store has belts. Typically he'll measure the perimeter and deduct 20%, and I just about always get a belt that fits perfectly. If your 8-track is a car player out of a Ford or Mopar, it's a Motorola and uses an FRM 11.5. It's a flat belt that's 1/4" wide and 11.5 inches in length. -- Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical Sound Solutions For Classic Cars http://www.taymanelectrical.com wrote in message news:1128101587.579521.124230@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >I have a few misc. things sitting around here that need drive belts > (phonos and an 8 track player or two). www.ceitron.com has good prices > on belts but the minimum order is $20. They sell other stuff too so I > may be able to scrape up an order with them but I don't plan on > ordering from them often so I'd like to get the belts right the first > time. > > Starting with no belt I could run a string along the belt path and > measure the length. Is it proper to subtract a bit from the measured > length to ensure the new belt would be tight. If yes, how much? > > I also need some phono idlers redone. Will Bill Turner be back in > action anytime soon or should I go with someone else? > > Thanks for the help. > Article: 323296 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Lou deGonzague Subject: Re: 7868s to 6L6GC/5881s References: <1128105068.370145.115730@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 22:53:44 GMT If you are going to re socket why not go with the new 7591 from JJ? bc191f@gmail.com wrote: > Largely known that this works when 7868 amp resocketed right > > AND > > grid bias changed from -20V (for 35W / 450plate /370 screen) to -30V / > etc. on the 6L6s (5881s). > > I just did this on a S35 Precision Electronics (Grommes) 35W PA* Was > making 6W before clipping with toasted-looking 7868s. Now makes 35W > but > > CATCH THIS > > much higher gain settings needed. 6L6s want 70V grid-grid while 7868s > just need 40V in this, AB1 operations. Have never seen this important > gotcha. Here's hoping your driver can cut it > > Marty > > *anyone still have the owner's pamphlet? > Article: 323297 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433DDCB2.E8B3008A@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: <1128053226.360345.56280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 20:47:47 -0400 Mark, If you want, I have the domain name www.tuberadios.com (a nice url I snagged) and have about 350 meg of free space, I can create a simple webpage for you to advertize what you have for sale plus a form letter they can download as was said in this thread. Your url can be http://www.tuberadios.com/markoppat or what ever after the /. Regards, Sal Brisindi Mark Oppat wrote: > ,,,all you who say a website is the answer dont understand... these are all > unique items... I will never have them all on a website... never, wont do > it... cant do it. All the most common stuff will be there, though. > > Now, I know what you are saying is... the website will direct them what to > do. I will tell you now that the ones that are the worst will ignore it. > And, many come to me thru other sites... which is great. > > I had a discussion with Ed, (Blacksmith) about this a while ago, and the > charging for emails will never work. It will just get me blacklisted... > > I know Dave Frush will send some pix sometimes when needed. I have > sometimes too. But, understand, Dave has a real job and medical from it. > He doesnt have to sell anything. But, taking pix of every matched knob > is the last thing I want to do... when I tell the customer I have matched > it, I mean it... I know knobs really, really well. > > anyways, that was my vent for the week. Hope some of you got a laugh > anyways... Gotta go... a Scott 800B awaits. Havent worked on one in years. > > Mark Oppat > > "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message > news:1128053226.360345.56280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > Syl wrote: > > > A -website-, reeeeeeeeeaaaaaad the lips.....A....W-E-B-S-I-T-E... ;o) > > > > And it's so cheap and easy now that even an idiot like me can do it. I > > just set up a simple website for my wife's fledgling graphics design > > business (go visit www.katdesignsgraphics.com if you're curious) and, > > though I made it much more difficult on myself due to lack of > > experience in web design (be gentle :) I think it came out all right. > > And it was so *cheap* - a domain name and a year's worth of hosting for > > $40 total; and I picked up Serif WebPlus 6.0 for free to design the > > pages. Coming up with the content was the hardest part. > > > > Just come up with some content and do it. It will not be that painful > > and may subtract complexity from your life. > > > > -paul > > > > Article: 323298 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Best Sounding... Or, what do you listen to every day? Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 18:37:18 -0600 Message-ID: <12838-433DDA3E-135@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net> References: I cant listen to any commercial radio station for long due to the poor programming and louder volume the commercials are played at . I dont usually have time to sit next to any radio babying the volume control . I do however play the jukeboxes but not every day . I must go off topic ? and listen to a Sony mid 70`s portable AM FM radio when i`m in the mood for NPR and some christian music which are non commercial . The radio is small , sits on the couch and can be taken anywhere in an instant . I listen to XM for 90% of my music once again non commercial and portable . I have transmit XM to the old radios but i find it more convenient to just listen to the boom box itself . Out in the garage is one of those new Henry Kloss model one table radios . I used to strive for great big sound all the time but just about any fairly decent speaker is good enough for me . Article: 323299 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Paul Dietenberger" Subject: Silvertone 4587A console Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 19:46:56 -0500 Message-ID: <433ddae4$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> Hi all You may recall a few months ago I was looking at one of these in an antique store; but with it priced at $129, covered in nasty paint and with ugly replacement grille cloth I left it sit. Well today I saw it again, the proprietor noticed me looking at it and offered to sell it to me for $75. So, like an idiot, I had to buy it. This is my 8th console in a house not big enough to hold one, and in need of lots of cabinet attention. I have officially lost my sanity. Anyway, now that I have this thing, does it present any unusual electronic restoration problems? This is the 11-tube, 5-knob mirror-dial set with flash tuning, second from the top of the line for '37. Thanks Regards, Paul Article: 323300 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Message-ID: <433DE4F8.8B4BCF86@optonline.net> From: Sal Brisindi Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: <1128053226.360345.56280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <433DDCB2.E8B3008A@optonline.net> Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 21:23:04 -0400 Mark, Reading your post below I can understand why you don't want a website just yet, but if you do, you can share my url. Regards, Sal Sal Brisindi wrote: > Mark, > If you want, I have the domain name www.tuberadios.com (a nice url I snagged) > and have about 350 meg of free space, I can create a simple webpage for you to > advertize what you have for sale plus a form letter they can download as was > said in this thread. Your url can be http://www.tuberadios.com/markoppat or what > ever after the /. > > Regards, > Sal Brisindi > > Mark Oppat wrote: > > > ,,,all you who say a website is the answer dont understand... these are all > > unique items... I will never have them all on a website... never, wont do > > it... cant do it. All the most common stuff will be there, though. > > > > Now, I know what you are saying is... the website will direct them what to > > do. I will tell you now that the ones that are the worst will ignore it. > > And, many come to me thru other sites... which is great. > > > > I had a discussion with Ed, (Blacksmith) about this a while ago, and the > > charging for emails will never work. It will just get me blacklisted... > > > > I know Dave Frush will send some pix sometimes when needed. I have > > sometimes too. But, understand, Dave has a real job and medical from it. > > He doesnt have to sell anything. But, taking pix of every matched knob > > is the last thing I want to do... when I tell the customer I have matched > > it, I mean it... I know knobs really, really well. > > > > anyways, that was my vent for the week. Hope some of you got a laugh > > anyways... Gotta go... a Scott 800B awaits. Havent worked on one in years. > > > > Mark Oppat > > > > "Paul Dietenberger" wrote in message > > news:1128053226.360345.56280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... > > > Syl wrote: > > > > A -website-, reeeeeeeeeaaaaaad the lips.....A....W-E-B-S-I-T-E... ;o) > > > > > > And it's so cheap and easy now that even an idiot like me can do it. I > > > just set up a simple website for my wife's fledgling graphics design > > > business (go visit www.katdesignsgraphics.com if you're curious) and, > > > though I made it much more difficult on myself due to lack of > > > experience in web design (be gentle :) I think it came out all right. > > > And it was so *cheap* - a domain name and a year's worth of hosting for > > > $40 total; and I picked up Serif WebPlus 6.0 for free to design the > > > pages. Coming up with the content was the hardest part. > > > > > > Just come up with some content and do it. It will not be that painful > > > and may subtract complexity from your life. > > > > > > -paul > > > > > > Article: 323301 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: Silvertone 4587A console From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) References: <433ddae4$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 02:51:11 GMT In article <433ddae4$1_1@newspeer2.tds.net>, pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com says... > > >5-knob mirror-dial set with flash >tuning, second from the top of the line for '37. > >Thanks >Regards, Paul you will love it when done! John k9uwa Article: 323302 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 23:01:57 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: <1128053226.360345.56280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <433DDCB2.E8B3008A@optonline.net> <433DE4F8.8B4BCF86@optonline.net> Message-ID: <258a$433dfc29$4232bd08$6929@COQUI.NET> Sal Brisindi wrote: > Mark, > Reading your post below I can understand why you don't want a website just yet, but > if you do, you can share my url. > > Regards, > Sal Allow me to add my 2 cents worth here. A couple of years ago I took on doing Bill Turner's website. Bill was catching a lot of flak for taglining items for sale as a signature or jumping into posts with "I can sell you one of those". I did it as a favor to Bill because we're buddies and he had lots of good stuff to offer and I figured I could be of service. Everybody said...GET A WEBSITE, DUMMY! In Bill's case, ie in my case, his sales and inquiries went way up. The clueless quotient also went way up. "ALL PRICES INCLUDE SHIPPING" seems to translate to dozens of emails about "how much is shipping if I buy part A and Part B". I don't know diddly about website creation but for Bill's little backroom business it has been very easy for me to maintain and keep up with the changes on the simple website. No fancy forms, no PayPal checkout options - although we investigated all of that. Send a note with payment and the stuff gets shipped. Period...old-timey simple. Not a bother for me as an intermediary working for free. But when you expose yourself to the unwashed masses, yes indeed you do get more of the clueless who send a $20 money order with no note requesting what its for - or no shipping address and you end up trying to track them down while at the same time they are whining to their cronies that some a$$ stole their money and didn't deliver. A vendor has to make a committment to doing "web business" for it to work. I say that specifically because web-business is very different than face-to-face swapmeet business. Nowadays people expect a web vendor to respond to inquiries within 24 hours or so and to make the ordering process no-brainer simple. One has to be up to that task to do it on a routine basis and for a vendor like Oppat that has a large potential business out there it takes some focus-shifting and extra effort in order to make it fly. I think Mark understands that. Now as for knobs...who in the devil would think of simply requesting "Do you have knobs for my Frommitz 2A"? I suspect that many out there assume that old radio guys know every knob that was ever put on any radio. The proper response here is "send me a photo and I'll see if I can match it". Finding a domain name and a host server is the easy part. There is a modicum of effort involved in keeping things updated but more importantly its a change in procedures that make moving from swapmeet selling to internet selling a challenge. My 2c, Bill M Article: 323303 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" References: <2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net> Subject: Re: oil in auto radio Message-ID: Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 22:23:00 -0700 "Paul P" wrote in message news:wj%_e.92765$qY1.43457@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net... > I have used various CRC products from Home Depot/Lowes. > > They have an easy biodegradable cleaner and a very aggressive motor winding > cleaner. You have to wait a few hours before the biodegradable evaporates > away. The other stuff evaporates faster. > > Good Luck. > > PP. > "Nelson Gietz" wrote in message > news:2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net... > > Group, > > What's the best way to rinse a coat of light oil out of an auto radio > > chassis? I was thinking of giving it a light spray of mineral spirits AKA > > paint thinner which leaves little or no residue. I'm afraid the oil with > > the accumulated dirt (it's from a '54 Monarch) will provide leakage paths > > if > > I don't get most of the oil out of it. Would paint thinner cause > > problems? > > Cheers, > > Nelson Thanks for all the input, guys. I'm mulling it over... Nelson Article: 323304 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 20:18:58 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1128053226.360345.56280@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> Mark Oppat wrote: > ,,,all you who say a website is the answer dont understand... these are all > unique items... I will never have them all on a website... never, wont do > it... cant do it. All the most common stuff will be there, though. But, taking pix of every matched knob > is the last thing I want to do... when I tell the customer I have matched > it, I mean it... I know knobs really, really well. > Mark, of course you could do it....It all comes down to how you approach the problem. First of all, I don't think anyone here would argue that taking pictures of everything all at once will probably drive you crazy. It would take too long and you'd probably get a repetitive stress injury from clicking the shutter so many times in a short period of time. That being said, there is a way to do this that would not be too taxing. As I see it, you already have a procedure in place to fill the orders and ship them after they are placed. All you would need to do is add one simple step to that process: Take a picture of each knob BEFORE you box it up for shipment. After awhile, you will have a lot of pictures of different knobs, which can then be used to build a gallery of knob styles that can be placed on a web site. This has two advantages over photographing everything: You only have to take the time to photograph the items that customers have actually requested, instead of photographing oddballs that may not be requested for years. You don't have to make any special effort to pull out your entire inventory from whatever nooks and crannies it may be stored in to take the pictures...It is only done when you have a financially rewarding reason to do so (as it is now). As it stands now, there are a few good radio picture sites, and three or four decent radio schematic sites, but AFAIK, there are NO radio knob sites that visually match knob styles with radio models; yours could be the first, and would be a valuable online resource.......and would greatly reduce the dozen-emails-to-make-a-sale problem. One picture is worth a dozen emails....... -Scott Article: 323305 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: philsvintageradios Subject: Re: Problem with my Zenith Transoceanic Message-ID: <6r0sj158k8u57edsaar6puvptalvk148o8@4ax.com> References: <1127980728.695188.60370@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com> Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 03:39:51 GMT On 29 Sep 2005 00:58:48 -0700, docgorpon@aol.com wrote: >Sometimes when I listen to my Transoceanic.. after about 45 minutes >I'll hear a pop. Then the volume slowly decreases until I have, >basically, silence (although I do hear some signal if I crank it all >the way up). Eventually the volume fades back up. What is the problem >here? perhaps someone from this group could restore it for you or help you trade up for a restored one. what model is it? Phil Article: 323306 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 20:32:38 -0700 Message-ID: References: xrongor wrote: > 'setting up a website' is one thing. setting one up that has any hope of > eliminating the 'moron' factor is another entirely. and has nothing to do > with html. you may have built a website that works for you and the few > parts you stock (although i still see under antenas that you simply say > email me for details). but this isnt nearly good enough for someone trying > to eliminate emails while trying to sell hundreds/thousands of unique > vintage radio parts. > > in short, the coding of the htlm and the uploading of the files to the web > is the LEAST important and EASIEST of the tasks involved in setting up a > proper site. the simple act of photographing the knobs will take much > longer than it will to code the pages. then you gotta catalog them in the > database you designed (which is the ONLY way you are going to keep this much > inventory straight), etc etc etc... I wouldn't bother trying to keep the inventory straight on the website...Instead, I would put a blurb on the site that says something like "please contact me for availability and pricing". That way, there is no need to constantly update the actual quantities on hand. -Scott Article: 323307 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Scott W. Harvey" Subject: Re: Here's Something You Don't See Every Day Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 21:10:14 -0700 Message-ID: References: <1128095939.129214.153920@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com> Phil Nelson wrote: >>Anyone think this set is worth that much? > > > Yah, you betcha! Scarce, incredibly stylish -- enough to make any TV > collector's heart go pitty-pat. The only Teleavia I've ever seen was in a > museum. > I had one of these a very long time ago (back when these predicta-styled things were considered nearly worthless). A fellow collector threw it in as a deal-sweetener in a trade for some ham radio gear. It was about in the same cosmetic condition as the UK eBay set. > Another "bonus" is that you needn't bother restoring the electronics. I seem > to recall that 1950s Italian TV is not compatible with any of today's > standards. Correcto-mundo. It basically just sat in my room and looked like something out of Flash Gordon's living room. I would use my step-up variac to turn it on every once in awhile to see the raster. Kinda boring with no picture (which is why I got rid of it). > > Expect it to sell for big bucks, even with a few boo-boos. Indeed. I sold mine for $100 in late 1970s dollars. That was a HUGE amount for an old B&W TV back then, when an old 7 incher like your Hallicrafters 505 could be had for $10-20. Factor in inflation and increased collector interest and I would say that what I got for it at the time was probably about right. I'd bid in a > heartbeat if it were closer. But I wouldn't try for something that fragile > and scarce unless I could either bring it home myself or personally > supervise its crating. Fragile is a kind word. Remember those flimsy fold-up TV trays they used to sell that had wheels attached the legs? The ones that would topple over if you breathed too hard while moving them around? Imagine one of those with a heavy CRT sticking out of it. If my set was a typical example, then it is no wonder so few of these survive. -Scott P.S. I just checked out your website. I see you have completed the redesign. Looks great! Scotty likes it...... Article: 323308 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Any Salem Oregon area readers here? From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 04:34:54 GMT Looking for a radio collector type in the Salem Ore area That might be willing to be a "Guido" collector... has to do with a FleaBay seller that hasn't come through after a month since cashing the Money Order... email to me is k9uwa at arrl dot net John k9uwa Article: 323309 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 02:11:20 -0400 From: Bill Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! References: Message-ID: <8650b$433e288a$4232bd1d$19444@COQUI.NET> Scott W. Harvey wrote: > > I wouldn't bother trying to keep the inventory straight on the > website...Instead, I would put a blurb on the site that says something > like "please contact me for availability and pricing". That way, there > is no need to constantly update the actual quantities on hand. > > -Scott The consequence of that is having to answer emails to everyone who browses the site. Gary Schneider at PTOP does it that way and responds to emails fairly promptly. I don't mean any slight towards Mark O but promptly answering emails has never been his strong point. If a sale is predicated on "contact me for availability and pricing" and he doesn't respond then he has to change his old ways way of doing business. I tiptoed around that issue in a previous post. I think there's a big market for old radio parts. I'd be ordering small parts weekly from Gary if it weren't for his $30 minimum. Instead I wander off to ebay when the whim hits me that I need such and such two-dollar part without the delay of contacting back and forth for availability and pricing...and as a result I haven't bought anything >from Gary in well over a year. If it were me...I'd post what I have for sale with the shipping cost and where to send the payment. If its ersatz stuff like knobs that aren't worth categorizing by name and number, then I'd be prepared to spend the time to go back and forth trading photos with newbies and tire kickers. Its a bizness. You're either in or out. "Dabbling" halfway doesn't work. -Bill Article: 323310 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Sony 8-301W is this the right newsgroup?? From: "xrongor" Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 01:45:28 -0600 Message-ID: friend of mine just acquired a sony 8-301W portable television that 'almost' works. instead of being a go between, i'd rather just recommend a newsgroup to him and let him ask his own questions. i know its not a radio or phono, but older tv's seem to come up quite often on this group. is this the best forum to direct him to for fixing it? if not which is a better one? thx randy Article: 323311 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "xrongor" Subject: Re: EGADS!!!! Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 01:51:00 -0600 Message-ID: References: "Scott W. Harvey" wrote in message news:dhl00n01mb5@news4.newsguy.com... > xrongor wrote: >> 'setting up a website' is one thing. setting one up that has any hope of >> eliminating the 'moron' factor is another entirely. and has nothing to >> do with html. you may have built a website that works for you and the >> few parts you stock (although i still see under antenas that you simply >> say email me for details). but this isnt nearly good enough for someone >> trying to eliminate emails while trying to sell hundreds/thousands of >> unique vintage radio parts. >> >> in short, the coding of the htlm and the uploading of the files to the >> web is the LEAST important and EASIEST of the tasks involved in setting >> up a proper site. the simple act of photographing the knobs will take >> much longer than it will to code the pages. then you gotta catalog them >> in the database you designed (which is the ONLY way you are going to keep >> this much inventory straight), etc etc etc... > > I wouldn't bother trying to keep the inventory straight on the > website...Instead, I would put a blurb on the site that says something > like "please contact me for availability and pricing". That way, there is > no need to constantly update the actual quantities on hand. thats what prompted mark to post in the first place. he's sick of those emails.... if he had a website saying email for availability and pricing, he would just get more of those emails randy Article: 323312 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Nelson Gietz" References: <2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net> Subject: Re: oil in auto radio Message-ID: Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 03:53:05 -0700 Phil, It'd probably take half a day to explain to the guy how radios used to have glass bottles in 'em, and worked better than the ones now. ...and what AM is. Nelson "Phil B" wrote in message news:AfWdnRoGiIDMqaPeRVn-rA@comcast.com... > Take it to Jiffy Lube. Ask them to change the oil in the radio, but be > specific that after they drain the oil, you don't want them to fill it up > again. You will probably get a puzzled "let me check with the manager" > reply. Just be persistent. > > Phi B > > "Nelson Gietz" wrote in message > news:2sS_e.881$lb7.9186@news1.mts.net... > > Group, > > What's the best way to rinse a coat of light oil out of an auto radio > > chassis? I was thinking of giving it a light spray of mineral spirits AKA > > paint thinner which leaves little or no residue. I'm afraid the oil with > > the accumulated dirt (it's from a '54 Monarch) will provide leakage paths > > if > > I don't get most of the oil out of it. Would paint thinner cause > > problems? > > Cheers, > > Nelson > > > > > > Article: 323313 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brenda Ann" Subject: Not my auction, but this would be a great addition to someone's bench! Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 19:57:24 +0900 Message-ID: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6566165959&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1 Article: 323314 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jeffrey D Angus Subject: Re: Not my auction, but this would be a great addition to someone's References: Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 11:49:01 GMT Brenda Ann wrote: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6566165959 Oh man, that's shiny. Jeff -- RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED under the Internal Security Act of 1950. Article: 323315 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Jim Adney Subject: Re: BOONTON RADIO Q METER TUBE-FET REPLACEMENT Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 07:53:51 -0500 Message-ID: References: <464b11a707cc791fe1973034919a2e9a@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 11:23:25 +0200 "Pete_O" wrote: >Since I have no way to post this, I have created a WORD document with all >the info to replace the Boonton Radio 535A/B (RCA 1659)tube in the 160A >and 260A Q meters. I developed this circuit as the production engineer >for Boonton/HP but it was never used ("why support an obsolete >instument?". Email me at "lawnweeds100@ >yahoo.com" and I will send the file showing how to FET-ize the tube. My email to the address above got bounced. Yahoo didn't seem to know a user "lawnweeds100". Is there a typo here, or should I try it again? - ----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA ----------------------------------------------- Article: 323316 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Pete_O" Subject: Re: BOONTON RADIO Q METER TUBE-FET REPLACEMENT Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2005 09:41:39 +0200 Message-ID: <5a280064c2f48ea72695d0f105cadca6@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> References: <464b11a707cc791fe1973034919a2e9a@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> >instument?". Email me at "lawnweeds100@ >yahoo.com" and I will send the file showing how to FET-ize the tube. My email to the address above got bounced. Yahoo didn't seem to know a user "lawnweeds100". Is there a typo here, or should I try it again? ***Try it again. I've received about 20 requests so far with no hitches. Maybe you used the letter "O" instead of zeroes. -Pete O Article: 323317 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: BOONTON RADIO Q METER TUBE-FET REPLACEMENT References: <464b11a707cc791fe1973034919a2e9a@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> <5a280064c2f48ea72695d0f105cadca6@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 14:08:40 GMT Pete_O wrote: >>instument?". Email me at "lawnweeds100@ >>yahoo.com" and I will send the file showing how to FET-ize the tube. > > > My email to the address above got bounced. Yahoo didn't seem to know a > user "lawnweeds100". Is there a typo here, or should I try it again? > > ***Try it again. I've received about 20 requests so far with no hitches. > Maybe you used the letter "O" instead of zeroes. -Pete O I am one of the 20. It worked fine. Thanks, Pete. Bill Article: 323318 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Bill Jeffrey Subject: Re: Germanium transistors References: <0lG_e.1410$OH3.1057@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> <44WdnQVBXvG4uKDeRVn-pw@comcast.com> <04i%e.1734$OH3.1175@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 14:22:29 GMT Robert Murrell wrote: > I'd rather not. The sockets came with the radio. To me, that would be like > removing the Audion sockets from a DeForrest and replacing them with 7-pin > miniature sockets. An extreme example, but part of my psyche (or is it > psychotic)? > I have a fistful of CK880A transistors, plus some 2N1017s, 2N396s, and 2N494Cs. Do the research - if any of them would work, send me a USPS address by private email (fix my return address), and I will send some along, no charge. "All others pay cash!" By the way, this is the latest in a series of "In memory of Jim McKinnon" shipments. Any of you old guys remember Jim? When I was a newbie, he sent me "stuff", again and again, whenever I posted. Some of it was quite valuable, but it always came with a note "No charge - enjoy!" I think Jim is no longer with us, but he was the epitome of the hobby. Bill Jeffrey Article: 323319 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Steve" References: <29mdnWSVz4S2g6PeRVn-jQ@giganews.com> Subject: Re: National TV-7W television article Message-ID: <98x%e.891$Aw.14315@typhoon.sonic.net> Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 14:34:45 GMT Phil, I've been trying to contact you. No luck with the link on your website. I've got a question about the Motorol VT-71. Could you contact me off the list? Thanks! Steve Article: 323320 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: philsvintageradios Subject: current limiting resistors Message-ID: <6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com> Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 15:02:18 GMT some newer solid state power supplies and such have some sort of current limiting resistor. I am not sure if that is the correct term . basically they let the current through , until it gets over a certain limit, then they "clamp down" and won't let any current pass. these power supplies will appear to have no voltage across the output leads if they are shorted. you think the power supply is dead, but then if one of the output leads is lifted it has output power again. I "think " this is a relatively new way of designing things. but I don't know, and i also don't know how zener diodes work. I am hoping someone can enlighten me because this sounds like it could provide a good way to protect a radio, perhaps even substitute for a fuse? Phil Article: 323321 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Germanium transistors Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 09:04:24 -0600 Message-ID: <4765-433EA578-571@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: 2SC is NPN Article: 323322 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) Subject: Re: Sony 8-301W is this the right newsgroup?? Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 09:09:32 -0600 Message-ID: <4766-433EA6AC-183@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net> References: He just needs to keep replacing capacitors and clean controls as a first step . Article: 323323 of rec.antiques.radio+phono Subject: Re: current limiting resistors From: "Stephen Wild" Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 12:37:48 -0400 Message-ID: <1128184943_37351@spool6-east.superfeed.net> References: <6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com> They are basically two transistors with one strapped across a resistor through which the output current flows - this is chosen so that its voltage drop at the desired current is enough to forward bias the first transistor. The main current flow goes through a power transistor and the first transistor is connected to the base of the power resistor. When the first transistor is conducting, the voltage on the base of the power transistor is drawn below the forward biasing point, and the voltage drops until the current flowing through the resistor falls below the bias voltage of the first transistor (i.e. 0.7 volts normally). Thus, the voltage lowers to keep the current flow below the limit. Zener diodes are diodes which are fairly normal when forward bias but act differently when reverse biased - they have a breakdown voltage below which they do not conduct, but above which they do conduct - heavily. This means that a simple, regulated supply can be built using a zener and a resistor - the resistor in series with the zener and the power taken off between the resistor and the zener. A 5 volt zener will regulate to (obviously) 5 volts, a 25 volt zener to 25 volts. The power rating of the zener is important since considerable power will be dissipated in this type of circuit. A more practical regulator can be made by putting the zener voltage across the power transistor mentioned earlier. Thus, a complete regulated power supply can be made with a power transistor, small signal transistor, two resistors, and a zener diode. Note that the voltage output of the power transistor will be approx. 0.7 volts below that of the zener - either use a slightly higher voltage zener than the desired output or use a forward biased regular diode in series with the zener to compensate for the forward bias voltage drop of the power transistor. Hope this helps Stephen Wild "philsvintageradios" wrote in message news:6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com... > some newer solid state power supplies and such have some sort of > current limiting resistor. I am not sure if that is the correct term . > > basically they let the current through , until it gets over a certain > limit, then they "clamp down" and won't let any current pass. > > these power supplies will appear to have no voltage across the output > leads if they are shorted. you think the power supply is dead, but > then if one of the output leads is lifted it has output power again. > > I "think " this is a relatively new way of designing things. but I > don't know, and i also don't know how zener diodes work. I am hoping > someone can enlighten me because this sounds like it could provide a > good way to protect a radio, perhaps even substitute for a fuse? > > > Phil > Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com Article: 323324 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: Shawn K Subject: Re: National TV-7W television article References: <29mdnWSVz4S2g6PeRVn-jQ@giganews.com> Message-ID: Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 16:49:34 GMT Nice project, but compliments on the excellent new site layout! Looks great, keep up the good work! -- Shawn K www.thisoldradio.com Article: 323325 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "Brian Hill" Subject: F.S. Old SW radios Message-ID: Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 12:03:07 -0500 Well from the 60s but I thought a few of you guys might be interested? This is Blaupunkt Derby 691 with FM/SW/MW/LW. It was made around 1969-70 It's in good condition with some scratches on the grill but not bad and works good but needs the ant. fixed. $35 + S.H. 8lbs http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/derby6911.jpg GE Long Range/ P-780. These are the original GE Super Radio. This one is in great condition and works great too. It has a crack in the vinyl handle. $45 + S.H. 12lbs http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/GE1.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/GE2.jpg I also have another version of P-780. It's the same radio but doesn't say "Long Range" on the front and it doesn't have ant./gnd terminals on back for external ant. Must have been the first run of these P-780s? It's otherwise exactly the same. It needs the four electrolytics replaced, Very easy to do on these radios. It has low volume because of it. It's in excellent shape with one unoriginal Knob. $15 + S.H.12lbs Heres a link to some articals on the P-780 receiver: http://www.transistor.org/feature/jutson/feature.html Shipping is from 55992 -- 73 and good DX. B.H. Brian's Radio Universe http://webpages.charter.net/brianhill/500.htm Article: 323326 of rec.antiques.radio+phono From: "william_b_noble" References: <6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com> <1128184943_37351@spool6-east.superfeed.net> Subject: Re: current limiting resistors Message-ID: <1128188373.a3a242abb6292bfb474b655e956fc52f@teranews> Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 10:39:28 -0700 it's not hard to make a current limiter,if that's your goal, for an AA5, the key is the turn-on inrush current - just take the NTC thermistor out of a dead PC power supply and put it in series with the filaments. "philsvintageradios" wrote in message news:ogftj1d0pape6e1306vjjn46ps0e4p2ekv@4ax.com... > Neil was right with the term "polyfuse" that is what they were using > in the circuts which I saw and heard of. > > Thanks to both of you for explaining what I had missed. I thought it > might help when I read the previous post about AA5 dial lights, but I > didn't have the background to know if it was a practacle idea to use > them to protect an old radio. > > > phil > > > On Sat, 1 Oct 2005 12:37:48 -0400, "Stephen Wild" > wrote: > >>They are basically two transistors with one strapped across a resistor >>through which the output current flows - this is chosen so that its >>voltage >>drop at the desired current is enough to forward bias the first >>transistor. >>The main current flow goes through a power transistor and the first >>transistor is connected to the base of the power resistor. >>When the first transistor is conducting, the voltage on the base of the >>power transistor is drawn below the forward biasing point, and the voltage >>drops until the current flowing through the resistor falls below the bias >>voltage of the first transistor (i.e. 0.7 volts normally). Thus, the >>voltage >>lowers to keep the current flow below the limit. >> >>Zener diodes are diodes which are fairly normal when forward bias but act >>differently when reverse biased - they have a breakdown voltage below >>which >>they do not conduct, but above which they do conduct - heavily. This means >>that a simple, regulated supply can be built using a zener and a >>resistor - >>the resistor in series with the zener and the power taken off between the >>resistor and the zener. A 5 volt zener will regulate to (obviously) 5 >>volts, >>a 25 volt zener to 25 volts. The power rating of the zener is important >>since considerable power will be dissipated in this type of circuit. >> >>A more practical regulator can be made by putting the zener voltage across >>the power transistor mentioned earlier. Thus, a complete regulated power >>supply can be made with a power transistor, small signal transistor, two >>resistors, and a zener diode. Note that the voltage output of the power >>transistor will be approx. 0.7 volts below that of the zener - either use >>a >>slightly higher voltage zener than the desired output or use a forward >>biased regular diode in series with the zener to compensate for the >>forward >>bias voltage drop of the power transistor. >> >>Hope this helps >> >>Stephen Wild >>"philsvintageradios" wrote in message >>news:6n8tj15r7km45dpdvf5ejbsid69pn2hcg8@4ax.com... >>> some newer solid state power supplies and such have some sort of >>> current limiting resistor. I am not sure if that is the correct term . >>> >>> basically they let the current through , until it gets over a certain >>> limit, then they "clamp down" and won't let any current pass. >>> >>> these power supplies will appear to have no voltage across the output >>> leads if they are shorted. you think the power supply is dead, but >>> then if one of the output leads is lifted it has output power again. >>> >>> I "think " this is a relatively new way of designing things. but I >>> don't know, and i also don't know how zener diodes work. I am hoping >>> someone can enlighten me because this sounds like it could provide a >>> good way to protect a radio, perhaps even substitute for a fuse? >>> >>> >>> Phil >>> >> >> >> >> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services >>---------------------------------------------------------- >> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** >>---------------------------------------------------------- >> http://www.usenet.com >