Article: 339526 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio
Date: 13 Aug 2006 01:37:12 -0700
Message-ID: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning!



Article: 339527 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio
Date: 13 Aug 2006 02:05:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning!

And you now have the topmost resource on your continent...Buon gusto!



Article: 339528 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Calstan? Radio
Date: 13 Aug 2006 02:15:07 -0700
Message-ID: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Steven wrote:
> Dave.H wrote:
> > I don't really know much about old radios, but I'm learning!
>
> And you now have the topmost resource on your continent...Buon gusto!

And by that I am counting NSW, QLD, SA, VIC, territories and NZ too AND
certainly anybody in Brissie that you can recall. Now do get to work!



Article: 339529 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:13:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1155471236.512589.214840@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


Steven wrote:
> duty-honor-country wrote:
> > RadioGary wrote:
> > > Desertguy,
> > >
> > > I'm sorry for the last commentary that may have inadvertentaly asked
> > > you about your knowledge of the prime subject of this newsgroup,
> > > antique radio collecting.   You obviously know nothing.
> > >
> > > RadioGary wrote:
> > > > Desertputz,
> > > >
> > > > I have this old Philco radio model 37-650 with an interesting very
> > > > intermittent hum in the background.  Are you familiar with this set and
> > > > can you use your expertise in telling me where to check first?
> > > >
> > > > Or do you know anything about old radios, repair, and collecting?
> > > >
> > > > DeserTBoB wrote:
> > > > > On 10 Aug 2006 08:36:01 -0700, "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >(laughter...)   they do belong there ! <snip>
> > > > >
> > > > > ...and you belong in the nuthouse in Wilkes-Barre.
> > > > >
> > > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile.  I just got off the phone with
> > > > > eBay.  They're "reevaluating" their position.
> >
> >
> > (laughter...)  wow, talk about a 1-2 punch, DESERTBOB bites dust !
>
> Shut the fucking door, bitch! We got air conditioning in here.

Why are you and that other guy naked in there ?



Article: 339530 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:18:07 -0700
Message-ID: <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


Weldon Nudlpudl wrote:
> On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net> wrote:
>
> > Enjoy your open account...for awhile.  I just got off the phone with
> > eBay.  They're "reevaluating" their position.
>
> Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything.


What DeserTBob conveniently leaves out is, his own TWO Ebay usernames
were just suspended in recent months- one of them only a week or so
ago.  He alleged "fraud" claims amount to him returning an audio
alignment tape for a full refund, and him keeping a VHS tape because it
was a hard to find OOP movie at the time (since released on DVD)- but
he was also offered a full refund on the VHS as well.

The guy is INSANE. And he's obviously very bitter over his account
suspensions.



Article: 339531 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:19:36 -0700
Message-ID: <1155471576.888648.209710@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


Steven wrote:
> Weldon Nudlpudl wrote:
> > On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile.  I just got off the phone with
> > > eBay.  They're "reevaluating" their position.
> >
> > Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything.
>
> Poster:
>
> Everything Google lists you posting to for at least a week, as much as
> a month or so seems to be solely related to our loving couple, Charlie
> and Bob, and you post mainly from one of the other groups where we have
> our misery delivered from via Domino's Pizza and a 19 year old college
> girl in a beat up Isuzu Rodeo.
>
> We can see that you at least know enough to use Babelfish to translate
> German, if in fact it isn't native to you already. We can also see you
> might actually comment on topics in our group that actually mattered
> more than dB and Nudo. We can only hope you see fit to try that again.
>
> Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres.

Weldon is Bicycle under another name.



Article: 339532 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:20:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

I have recently acquired a Calstan transistor tabletop radio, and I
took it apart (it's in pieces on the dining table now) noting all the
connections and writing them down, but I have noticed the tops of what
I think are the transistors. Is this normal.  BTW the radio still plays
beautifully even though the speaker is worn with a couple of holes,
still decent sound,  so I'm leaving the speaker in, the transistors, at
least I think are the transistors are rectangular with a flat screw
like tuneup thing on top.  you see them in almost all radios even
modern ones.  If these aren't transistors what are they?  The black
wont rub off with my finger. I am new to antique radios collecting, so
please excuse me if this answer is obvious.
Thanks, dave



Article: 339533 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:20:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1155471622.864342.214440@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


Steven wrote:
> Beerbarrel wrote:
> > On 12 Aug 2006 17:49:02 -0700, "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > >Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres.
> >
> >
> >
> > and so does Steven!
>
> I borrowed it from your closet though.


lame...really lame comeback...

you're slippin'



Article: 339534 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
Subject: FART....radio!
Message-ID: <RREDg.71133$_J1.722650@twister2.libero.it>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:24:17 GMT

And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA'
appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART',
actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy.
I'm not related with this item, even if i know him
very well, nice person.
See
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300015398462


-- 
 Daniele
 http://www.tuberadio.it





Article: 339535 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "455 Pontiac on premium Sunoco-chariot of the gods" <bb69@epix.net>
Subject: Re: FS: (51) tapes for sale-all new wave-college dorm lot-1980-90's era-PUNK-$$$$$$
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:33:51 -0700
Message-ID: <1155472431.138769.300710@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155215779.830921.178500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>


DeserTBoB wrote:
> On 12 Aug 2006 08:12:10 -0700, "Dwight D. Eisenhower" (aka the deluded
> Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA) spamming from <analog@epix.net>
> wrote:
>
> > http://tinypic<snip>
>
> DO NOT BUY FROM THIS OFF-TOPIC SPAMMER AND DIRTBAG SELLER!
>
> This spammer and eBay fraudster, Charlie Nudo of Drums, PA, aka
> 66fourdoor on eBay, is yet another annoying eBay spammer, as well as
> an eBay cheat and crook.  He's obviously under pressure now due to my
> efforts, as he's sending my ISP and othe net ops messages threatening
> legal action if they don't shut me up...ain't gonna happen!  Now, due
> to fraud complaints on eBay, he's trying to "direct market" by
> spamming the hell out of Usenet.  Don't be beguiled by his "great
> feedback," either...take a look at his attempts at extortion and his
> "buried" bad feedback at:
>
> http://toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=66fourdoor&Dirn=Received+by
>
> Also, take a look at his retaliatory bad feedback left for others at:
>
> http://toolhaus.org/cgi-bin/negs?User=66fourdoor&Dirn=Left+by
>
> This guy's a proven nut case and crook.  He defrauded me twice under
> two different eBay account names, one having been shut down since then
> for fraud.
>
> Do Usenet a favor...turn this creep in for spam today at:
>
> groups-abuse@google.com (use email account he used in his spam)
> abuse@epix.net (main account POP3 address thenudofamily@epix.net)
>
> ...and do NOT fall victim to his scam sales!


What DeserTBob conveniently leaves out is, he is bitter over having (2)
Ebay accounts of his own recently suspended- for auction harassment,
driving bidders away from auctions, and posting private contact info.

His "fraud" accusations amount to him returning (1) audio alignment
tape for a full refund- while he kept another VHS tape because it was a
rare OOP movie at the time.  

You make the call.



Article: 339536 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "455 Pontiac on premium Sunoco-chariot of the gods" <bb69@epix.net>
Subject: Re: FA: AKAI CR-83D 8 TRACK STEREO TAPE PLAYER RECORDER EXC condition
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:37:16 -0700
Message-ID: <1155472635.938910.128290@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Rowdy wrote:
> Great classic deck, for more info:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110014426951

You did ok on that one.



Article: 339537 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Whoever <police@dunkindonuts.com>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>   <ebfcmv02ob1@news1.newsguy.com>   <a84ca$44db4352$d1cc7b2f$15602@snip.allthenewsgroups.com>   <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com>   <oDsDg.600361$Fs1.218576@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <o5FDg.27539$u05.7658@trnddc01>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT

Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two 
are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with 
each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding 
in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ


Article: 339538 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:50:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> I have recently acquired a Calstan transistor tabletop radio, and I
> took it apart (it's in pieces on the dining table now) noting all the
> connections and writing them down, but I have noticed the tops of what
> I think are the transistors. Is this normal.  BTW the radio still plays
> beautifully even though the speaker is worn with a couple of holes,
> still decent sound,  so I'm leaving the speaker in, the transistors, at
> least I think are the transistors are rectangular with a flat screw
> like tuneup thing on top.  you see them in almost all radios even
> modern ones.  If these aren't transistors what are they?  The black
> wont rub off with my finger. I am new to antique radios collecting, so
> please excuse me if this answer is obvious.
> Thanks, dave

Those are variable capacitors of the type used in IF sections. If it
tunes fine there's no reason to even touch them, and if you do you may
have to learn to realign the set anyway. Holes ain't the killaz, and if
they really bug you enough just use toilet paper and school glue to
patch, from behind if you can. Sounds like you've got a nice set so det
the dust gone with canned air and careful cleaning with plain H2O and a
clean rag or ear swabs if needed. Make sure no debris is left behind
and remember solvents (including some electronics cleaners are EVIL to
some plastics so test a spot on some place or some thing you can afford
to goof on. Older sets, even transistorized one can be finicky so have
all the components checked to assure they remain withing working
specifications...

Then show it off and PLAY that BOOGER.

I think it'll be a keeper. Bonsa!



Article: 339539 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 05:51:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1155473501.849181.35770@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


Whoever wrote:
> Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two
> are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with
> each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding
> in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :=FE


In reality, it's because DeserTBob can't stand someone making a few
bucks on Ebay selling their old stuff- while he lacks the social and
people skills to sell anything.  He can only buy.  Otherwise, he is so
despised, no one wants anything to do with him- including his own
family.  The guy obviously didn't get enough love as a kid growing up-
and still doesn't.  And it must suck to drive around in his 1979 Honda.
 Can you imagine how embarassing that is ?



Article: 339540 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:01:28 -0700
Message-ID: <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub
the black stuff off.  I was using furniture polish to clean inside and
out.  I guess thats no good.   Sounds nice but the volume crackles a
bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me.  If it ain't
broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if
the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car
speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not
sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up
good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil.



Article: 339541 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:03:38 -0700
Message-ID: <1155474218.387717.94580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Oh yeah I forgot, I'll try to take some photos of the speaker and
chassis and cabinet tomorrow, we're having a house inspection, but I'll
try to squeeze it in.



Article: 339542 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:04:10 -0700
Message-ID: <1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>

1979 Hondas were a particularly robust group of models, if not some of
the most renowned and ground-breaking in Honda's history. Subaru also
had a great lineup, including an attractive and versatile GL-10 and and
a (then) recently introduced phenomenon called BRAT, a mini-pickup
similar to El Camino in concept, with 2 seats in the bed that got
around the US tariff on Japanese pickups. Most people removed the seats
and used the bed with or without a shell, readily available even on the
aftermarket.

As for Honda, Accords and Civics came in 3 door hatchback, plus the
Accord had recently introduced a 4 door sedan to the lineup. The
monumental Civic CRX was less than 2 years from it's American
introduction, and Honda's star was just about hung over the moon for
good.

Not much you can ridicule there, Caine.



Article: 339543 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:14:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1155474857.707083.253290@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


but I have noticed the tops of what
> I think are the transistors. Should be '' I have noticed the tops of what I think are the transisitors are blackened, as if been in a fire. ''

Steven has already confirmed what these are.  I had it wrong, but what
do I know?  Next to nothing, but I'm slowly learning!



Article: 339544 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:22:37 -0700
Message-ID: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub
> the black stuff off.  I was using furniture polish to clean inside and
> out.  I guess thats no good.   Sounds nice but the volume crackles a
> bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me.  If it ain't
> broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if
> the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car
> speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not
> sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up
> good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil.

Dave, the crackling isn't the speaker, it's the volume switch.

If it's a regular pot, spraying may/may not help it but it must get
into the switch (it WILL evaporate over a day or two. DO NOT DO THIS
UNLESS POWER IS REMOVED (UNPLUG IT)! Work the switch all the way back
and forth numerous times to lube and clean the pot well and do not
operate it for most of a day. Work it from time to time to help it
self-clean. If you have the rotary point-contact type ALA a pocket set
that has a volume wheel, it could be harder and I don't think
advisable.

Determine which control crackles (especially if it has tone or balance
controls) and repeat for all noisy controls.

PLEASE NOTE: Cleaning may not be a cure and the noises may return after
the controls start to dry out and/or the controls are once again a
mess. Eventually you may find yourself replacing the pots anyway.

Whomever passes for Dick Smith there will know what kind of sprays are
best for the job and safer to use on your plastics.

If you aren't having the sound break up all the time or for the
briefest time while adjusting the knob, you may always just take it for
granted and let it be until it becomes like Alice Cooper's python to
you and squeezes the fun out of listening.

Some of that fabulous Australian pop music awaits you, so go get it!



Article: 339545 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 06:41:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1155476469.170261.109640@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


CAINE wrote:
> Steven wrote:
> > Weldon Nudlpudl wrote:
> > > On 10-Aug-2006, DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Enjoy your open account...for awhile.  I just got off the phone with
> > > > eBay.  They're "reevaluating" their position.
> > >
> > > Anybody who has struggled with eBay knows that they would rather eat their own young than reevaluate their position on anything.
> >
> > Poster:
> >
> > Everything Google lists you posting to for at least a week, as much as
> > a month or so seems to be solely related to our loving couple, Charlie
> > and Bob, and you post mainly from one of the other groups where we have
> > our misery delivered from via Domino's Pizza and a 19 year old college
> > girl in a beat up Isuzu Rodeo.
> >
> > We can see that you at least know enough to use Babelfish to translate
> > German, if in fact it isn't native to you already. We can also see you
> > might actually comment on topics in our group that actually mattered
> > more than dB and Nudo. We can only hope you see fit to try that again.
> >
> > Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres.
>
> Weldon is Bicycle under another name.

Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for
an E-tard such as yourself.



Article: 339546 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Sal Brisindi <salb203@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04>
Message-ID: <H9GDg.1167$Rh7.456@newsfe11.lga>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:53:42 -0400

If I think I will create more of a problem trying to remove the 
component when there are to many wires going to the lug I just snip the 
capacitor off leaving a pigtail a and solder it to the pigtail. Not the 
greatest way but it works for me.

What I have also done is get a pin, or a small allen key, wrap 22/24 
guage wire around it like making a spring but with the coils tightly 
wrapped. Then I slid the wire of the new component and the pigtail I 
left and solder that. It ain't gonna get loose! If anyone is not sure 
what I mean I can take a few photos and post it on the binaries.

Sal Brisindi



Article: 339547 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 08:27:53 -0600
Message-ID: <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net>
References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72>

 
good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint.. 
John k9uwa

That was someones oppinion . Atwater Kent proves different . I prefer a
hole to at least push the wire through though for joints with several
wires . 



Article: 339548 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net>
References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 07:40:03 -0700
Message-ID: <fM2dnSiKzZpdpELZnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com>

> Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint...

I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and clean
terminals.

We've gone through this before, but I'll repeat it... Many years ago J.
Gordon Holt, founder of "The Stereophile", argued for simply slipping the
leads into the lugs without bending them around. His argument was that this
not only save assembly time and effort, but made it easier to replace
components.

Broadly speaking, I agree. But this method requires cleanliness and close
attention to the quality of the joint.




Article: 339549 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Beerbarrel <beerbarrel@cox.net>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Message-ID: <oteud2h5vlbhliog4t8auv8ea7m5fdbnl0@4ax.com>
References: <ebfcmv02ob1@news1.newsguy.com> <a84ca$44db4352$d1cc7b2f$15602@snip.allthenewsgroups.com> <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com> <oDsDg.600361$Fs1.218576@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155430142.410104.297780@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <6i7td29fhv91t6vu7dkqje5l7pnuk7ue8n@4ax.com> <1155442326.108859.99120@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <1155442586.416349.119140@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 10:50:01 -0400

On 12 Aug 2006 21:16:26 -0700, "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote:

>
>Steven wrote:
>> Beerbarrel wrote:
>> > On 12 Aug 2006 17:49:02 -0700, "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > >Cheerleaders normally wear brassieres.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > and so does Steven!
>>
>> I borrowed it from your closet though.
>
>It's tight because you're slightly bigger.


It's tight because you are immensely bigger. I hear your nick is
Heafty Half after the old Chevy truck.
__________________________________________________________



Have you heard about the new arcade game? It's called 'Whack-a-nuck"!


Article: 339550 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> <fM2dnSiKzZpdpELZnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Message-ID: <JZHDg.4660$5M.3149@trnddc02>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT


"William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message 
news:fM2dnSiKzZpdpELZnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>> Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint...
>
> I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and 
> clean
> terminals.
>

If I may chime in once again, you're both right, but I think we're also 
using a few buzzwords that were once written in some "how to fix a radio or 
TV" classroom book.

Away back many years ago, when I was in class, the teacher gave us each 
several pieces of copper wire -- I think it was stripped #14 Romex.  Our 
assignment was to make a cube by soldering the ends of these wires together. 
We could cut, we could file, and we could solder.  What he wanted was as 
perfect a cube as we could make, with just enough solder to make a rounded 
corner -- no concave, no excess.  Of course it was a little tricky to begin 
with, as it seems we needed 3 hands to hold everything -- and pliers or 
forceps so we don't burn our fingers in the process.  But as I recall it 
didn't really take all that long.  I took extra care, as I thought it would 
make a neat desk ornament when I brought it home.  But it wasn't to be.  The 
teacher looked at mine, gave me 100%, told the class that it was the most 
perfect cube he has ever seen, and kept it!  Darn it . . .

Actually you will indeed read that a good solder connection begins with a 
good mechanical connection.  However by "mechanical" it doesn't have to be 
so strong that you can hang your car from an overhead beam with it.  What 
this means is that you should have a fairly good metal-to-metal contact, so 
that you're not depending on the solder itself to complete the circuit.  By 
mechanical connection, it is generally meant that the electricity should 
flow through the joint even if there is no solder.  This means metal 
touching metal, with no dirt or corrosion causing resistance and/or 
preventing the solder from making a good molecular bond with the metal 
components.

In the case of Atwater-Kent, there is really nothing wrong with a metal wire 
sitting on a flat tab, except that it can certainly be tricky if you're 
trying to solder several wires to the same lug.  I also have to scratch my 
head when it comes to those resistors whose ends are made purely of 
solder -- they melt when you apply the iron, and it certainly depends on a 
LOT of solder to complete the circuit.  Obviously a dumb idea which didn't 
take long to become obsolete . . .



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com




Article: 339551 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:07:24 -0700
Message-ID: <bgjud2tv37ab5pptl40umoc2ars747so0g@4ax.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>   <ebfcmv02ob1@news1.newsguy.com>   <a84ca$44db4352$d1cc7b2f$15602@snip.allthenewsgroups.com>   <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com>   <oDsDg.600361$Fs1.218576@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <o5FDg.27539$u05.7658@trnddc01>

On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT, Whoever <police@dunkindonuts.com>
wrote:

>Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two 
>are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with 
>each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding 
>in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ


That's IT!  Cholly Noodlez is a closeted homosexual who keeps frauding
and lying to attract my attention!

Quick...someone chemically castrate that whack job!


Article: 339552 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: schmillivolt@yahoo.com
Subject: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: 13 Aug 2006 10:00:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many
"orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon
bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED.

Any ideas?



Article: 339553 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
From: "Weldon Nudlpudl" <weldon@nudlpudl.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155476469.170261.109640@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <ifJDg.244234$mF2.92165@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 17:24:30 GMT

On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:41:09 GMT, bicyclingg@yahoo.com wrote:

>> Weldon is Bicycle under another name.
> 
> Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for
> an E-tard such as yourself.

Eh.  That wouldn't really disprove his theory.  You could use some combination of multiple ISPs, telnet, and long-distance phone calls to pretend to be me.

But, if you *are* pretending to be me, then I'd like to know who the **ck you are!  Knock it off!

Meanwhile, somebody tell Steven that Dutch and German parted ways long ago.


Article: 339554 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: ken scharf <wa2mzeNOSPAMBOTS@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <%rJDg.4388$q96.2677@bignews4.bellsouth.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:42:01 -0400

schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote:
> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many
> "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon
> bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
Led's are mostly monochromatic (single frequency).  You can try
getting a tri-color (three chip led) with red, blue, and green
elements and by adjusting the power to each chip (these leds
have 4 or 5 leads to light each chip independently) you could
get the exact color you want.


Article: 339555 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 11:00:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1155492002.942167.151060@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


Weldon Nudlpudl wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 13:41:09 GMT, bicyclingg@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> >> Weldon is Bicycle under another name.
> >
> > Learn to read a header, it's not that hard. Pretty basic stuff even for
> > an E-tard such as yourself.
>
> Eh.  That wouldn't really disprove his theory.  You could use some combination of multiple ISPs, telnet, and long-distance phone calls to pretend to be me.

Who the hell would go through all that?

His "theories" are disproven daily. Like the theory that I was posting
through Penn State servers that I "hacked" into. He even went as far as
calling them to report it, made a complete ass out of himself. I
encourage him to keep making stupid and false reports, only confirms
what a whack job he is.



Article: 339556 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get
References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> <XOWdnY7Vou2mJUPZnZ2dnUVZ_oidnZ2d@comcast.com>
Message-ID: <NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:02:21 GMT

Tom Adkins wrote:
> Pete_O wrote:
> 
>> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the
>> metal cased AK's?  Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't need
>> it then.  Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter.  -Pete
>>
>  I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local 
> Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a 
> wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done.


You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a 
base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it.


Article: 339557 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>   <ebfcmv02ob1@news1.newsguy.com>   <a84ca$44db4352$d1cc7b2f$15602@snip.allthenewsgroups.com>   <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com>   <oDsDg.600361$Fs1.218576@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>   <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <o5FDg.27539$u05.7658@trnddc01>   <1155473501.849181.35770@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Message-ID: <gPJDg.44805$u05.29067@trnddc01>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:02:52 GMT

Bleccchhh!!!!!!

I'll keep my 64 Thunderbird, thank you.

Why I'm reading this thread in the first place . . . . . . . . . . . .

Why I'm contributing . . . . .

 . . . just having a bad day.  Sorry.


-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com


"Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message 
news:1155474250.836620.242360@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> 1979 Hondas were a particularly robust group of models, if not some of
> the most renowned and ground-breaking in Honda's history. Subaru also
> had a great lineup, including an attractive and versatile GL-10 and and
> a (then) recently introduced phenomenon called BRAT, a mini-pickup
> similar to El Camino in concept, with 2 seats in the bed that got
> around the US tariff on Japanese pickups. Most people removed the seats
> and used the bed with or without a shell, readily available even on the
> aftermarket.
>
> As for Honda, Accords and Civics came in 3 door hatchback, plus the
> Accord had recently introduced a 4 door sedan to the lineup. The
> monumental Civic CRX was less than 2 years from it's American
> introduction, and Honda's star was just about hung over the moon for
> good.
>
> Not much you can ridicule there, Caine.
> 




Article: 339558 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard)
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 10:54:55 -0700
Message-ID: <21468-44DF676F-1@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

Use a white LED and an amber filter material of some kind. At the
moment, i'm shining a white LED thru a piece of orange colored
tranparent plastic. Looks like it'd be a pretty close approximation of a
NE-2 glow if the brightness were cut down with more series resistance. 
                    oc   



Article: 339559 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> <XOWdnY7Vou2mJUPZnZ2dnUVZ_oidnZ2d@comcast.com> <NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06>
Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get
Message-ID: <22KDg.45841$u05.28854@trnddc01>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:18:38 GMT

In the world of classic automobiles, that's EXACTLY how it's done.

Fortunately for me, the only radios I've wrinkle painted are car radios, and 
done in black -- the one color that is readily available in just about any 
auto store.

Even so, if you've got an AK radio (or similar) with colored wrinkle paint, 
it can't hurt to check with an automotive paint store to see if they can 
whip up the exact thing you need.  I've dealt with a paint store in 
Bradenton who has been simply wonderful.  If I want acrylic enamel to match 
the exterior color, they mix it for me -- in as little as one spray bomb, or 
one vial of touch-up.  If I ask for paint for the steering column, they mix 
it as well.  Dash paint, vinyl dyes, everything I've asked for they make on 
the spot, and every time the paint has just the right amount of gloss, and 
goes on well.  Of course in the past I've also dealt with paint stores that 
are less helpful, or want a minimum of 10 bottles . . .

If you're lucky enough to find a store that will work with you, take a good 
sample of the original with you.  They can match it, and get you exactly the 
paint that will work.

Now -- I'll confess I've never asked these guys for wrinkle paint, and I 
don't know what's in the stuff, so maybe they can't make it as easily for 
some reason.  If this is the case, do the above and paint your finishing 
color over black.

-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com



"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
news:NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06...
> Tom Adkins wrote:
>> Pete_O wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the
>>> metal cased AK's?  Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't 
>>> need
>>> it then.  Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter.  -Pete
>>>
>>  I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local 
>> Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a 
>> wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done.
>
>
> You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a 
> base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it. 




Article: 339560 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com> <XOWdnY7Vou2mJUPZnZ2dnUVZ_oidnZ2d@comcast.com> <NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06>
Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 14:33:26 -0400
Message-ID: <L_OdnWz4zto-8kLZnZ2dnUVZ_v-dnZ2d@comcast.com>

I'm not an AK expert, but  AFAIK, AK did not use wrinkle for any red or
green lids on the metal box  47, 55 and 60 radios. Wrinkle is only used on
the brown and gold metal boxes, and I think on the black box smaller sets
like the model 30 and such.

Mark Oppat


"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:NOJDg.23405$zc2.15893@trnddc06...
> Tom Adkins wrote:
> > Pete_O wrote:
> >
> >> Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on
the
> >> metal cased AK's?  Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't
need
> >> it then.  Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter.  -Pete
> >>
> >  I don't know if there is any one who sells it as such, but your local
> > Automotive paint supplier should be able to match it if it's not a
> > wrinkle finish. Wrinkle finish is trickier, though it can be done.
>
>
> You can buy wrinkle finish spray paint, perhaps it would work to spray a
> base coat of that and then use a top coat of color matched paint over it.
>





Article: 339561 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: lewallie@aol.com
Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going?
Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:06:55 -0700
Message-ID: <1155496015.019058.40980@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebWdnVnZ0t_UwUbZnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@comcast.com>


Mark Oppat wrote:
> is it too early to ask?
>
> I plan on being there with a full load of capacitors, repro dials, knobs,
> decals and other vital parts.
>
> They are expanding into the second pavilion now... its growing and its
> right in the heart of antique radio country.
> 
> Mark Oppat



Article: 339562 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: lewallie@aol.com
Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going?
Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:12:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1155496344.524243.171060@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebWdnVnZ0t_UwUbZnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@comcast.com>


lewal...@aol.com wrote:
> There will be steak dinner friday night.



Article: 339563 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Registered User <n4jvp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 14:55:23 -0400
Message-ID: <s5tud29ki2qmlrppk4tlsuaulfilsb95jg@4ax.com>
References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> <fM2dnSiKzZpdpELZnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com> <JZHDg.4660$5M.3149@trnddc02>

On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT, "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
wrote:

> I also have to scratch my 
>head when it comes to those resistors whose ends are made purely of 
>solder -- they melt when you apply the iron, and it certainly depends on a 
>LOT of solder to complete the circuit.  Obviously a dumb idea which didn't 
>take long to become obsolete . . .

It sounds as if you are talking about grid-leak resistors that were
never intended to be soldered into a circuit. 

regards
Fritz


Article: 339564 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jwb0721@gmail.com
Subject: NordMende Carmen 55
Date: 13 Aug 2006 12:27:38 -0700
Message-ID: <1155497258.375171.21460@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Does anyone know where I can get a value estimate on a NordeMende
Carmen55 German Radio (it works by the way and has a wonderful full
sound).  I received this as a gift from a former German Nazi Officer I
lived next to in Germany in early 1980. This radio had been in his
family for a long time and passed to him on his parents death in the
1930's.



Article: 339565 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44DF7DA3.C8B85B80@earthlink.net>
From: "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275
References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:29:51 GMT

:*p wrote:
> 
> Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are
> screwing them and not the other way.
> 
> %


   The same goes for you, Skippy.  So you've learned to set a fictitious
follow-up? Plonk.


-- 
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida


Article: 339566 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44DF810F.7E009EDD@earthlink.net>
From: "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Applications where tubes are still king??
References: <1154980972.462384.103210@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <0jRBg.9349$bo6.5139@bignews7.bellsouth.net> <jbyrns-0908061635170001@216-80-74-244.s244.tnt1.chgo.il.dialup.rcn.com> <ebdqdv$3dr$1@reader2.panix.com> <44DAABF6.8A2A29A5@earthlink.net> <r4vDg.1719$9v1.1220@trnddc07>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:44:30 GMT

James Sweet wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> >    The operating costs for the tube version more than offsets the
> > difference in purchase price, and the smaller number of tube
> > transmitters has narrowed the gap considerably.  You use less
> > electricity for a solid state transmitter, that means less is used for
> > air conditioning.  The transmitter is smaller, and requires less
> > maintenance over its life.  That maintenance can be done by less skilled
> > staff, and it is rare that the transmitter would go down completely,
> > reducing the number of make goods on advertising.  You can continue to
> > run the transmitter with a single bad output module while it is repair
> > locally, or at the factory.  If you need a backup generator and switch
> > gear it will be cheaper, as well.  Thales and Harris are the only two
> > manufacturers I'm still familiar with.  Thales bought Comark, which made
> > the last big transmitter I worked on. All solid state, except the
> > Klystrons, and it was delivered a week before the Klystrodes hit the
> > market.  It uses three 65 KW Klystrons, two Visual, and one Aural.  It
> > cost over $45,000 to rebuild one of the Klystrons in 1990.
> >
> 
> That may well be true, but it doesn't change the fact that many people
> still shop strictly by price.


   Have you ever worked in the broadcast industry? Budgets are usually a
five to ten year projection.  The electric bill is the biggest bill
every month, and anything that will reduce that is a major concern.  I
haven't seen a new tube transmitter built after 1985 at any station in
the area.  NEC treid to set one up for Channel 68 in Orlando in 1987,
but they never did get it to work properly, so it was donated to a
college TV station in exchange for their Ch 18 allocation.  Then they
bought a new US built transmitter, but I was no longer working at the
WCX tower site in Orange City, Florida so i don't know what it used.. 
I've seen several new AM and FM transmitters installed, and all were
solid state.


> Look at how many people still use 25 cent
> incandescent lightbulbs despite the fact that a $3 compact fluorescent
> will more than pay for itself in electricity savings, or who will buy a
> $99 Wal-Mart special TV instead of paying $150 to get their older high
> end Sony repaired.


   That is not a valid analogy.  THE TRANSMITTER IS THEIR SOLE SOURCE OF
INCOME.  NO RF = NO PAYCHECKS.


  Its very true that Broadcasters ARE cheap bastards, but the stupid
ones don't survive for long.  Its cheaper to buy a bunch of identical
solid state transmitters and a set of spare modules, then fire all but
one engineer for the area. The pay back can be under two years.  In some
cases, its under a year.  Then they pay the factory to do what the
engineer can't, and it usually includes all ECOs and upgrades for a
flate repair rate.



-- 
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida


Article: 339567 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44DF83C4.49FF1234@earthlink.net>
From: "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: (De)soldering techniques
References: <1155300902.787861.183610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <7063-44DC8A61-25@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> <1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <hVuDg.1716$9v1.250@trnddc07>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:56:01 GMT

James Sweet wrote:
> 
> It works a lot better on some things than others but the trick is to dip
> it in liquid flux before using. The flux that comes on it dries out over
> time and it doesn't work very well.


   It doesn't "Dry out". It is lost due to handling.  It breaks away as
a fine dust.  the more you handle it, the quicker there isn't enough
flux left to do the job.



 Adding some fresh solder to the
> joint before desoldering, while counterintuitive, works well.


   Its NOT counterintuitive.  The fresh solder lifts of the oxidized
surface of the old solder which makes it easier to wick solder off the
joint.


-- 
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida


Article: 339568 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44DF8881.3DE078F7@earthlink.net>
From: "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>   <ebfcmv02ob1@news1.newsguy.com>   <a84ca$44db4352$d1cc7b2f$15602@snip.allthenewsgroups.com>   <1155224161.038123.139010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <07mmd25v5c15atknurm6jc981efeandnk7@4ax.com>   <oDsDg.600361$Fs1.218576@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net> <1155471487.682289.24330@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <o5FDg.27539$u05.7658@trnddc01> <bgjud2tv37ab5pptl40umoc2ars747so0g@4ax.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 20:16:13 GMT

DeserTBoB wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:40:52 GMT, Whoever <police@dunkindonuts.com>
> wrote:
> 
> >Y'know, after reading all this BS, I pretty sure I know why these two
> >are constantly at each others' necks. They're both secretly in love with
> >each other, but are afraid to come out of those closets they're hiding
> >in! Remember boys, "D'Nile" isn't just a river in Egypt! :þ
> 
> That's IT!  Cholly Noodlez is a closeted homosexual who keeps frauding
> and lying to attract my attention!
> 
> Quick...someone chemically castrate that whack job!


   Dump some battery acid in his lap.  That should do the job.


-- 
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida


Article: 339569 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:22:28 -0700
Message-ID: <1155507748.523811.273740@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>

SOMEBODY found my new Lycos bit bucket today!

It wasn't a Mirthlink customer and it wasn't someone with sand in their
britches (he's not dumb enough to write no more).

If I wish I might see him next to something about jVxiAnjsGryyya  or
lovely softcore Japanese dating porn (if you can't read it where DOOO
you click?)

(answer: You just stare at those goo-goo-Google-y eyes)

Until the top falls of my lap, keep the spam coming!



Article: 339570 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:25:55 -0700
Message-ID: <1155507954.884606.60260@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

These blackened things are 1 cm square so I think they are the IF
transformers.  I haven't gotten around to taking photos, but I will do
it today.  The set is still in pieces on a workbench waiting for me to
have a closer look at it.  I've never really worked on a radio before,
so this will teach me.  My next project I hope is to actually work on a
valve (tube) set!  THAT will be fun. And, Steven all the 4 knobs (1 is
missing, another is loose which isn't shown in the existing photo's on
Flickr, I'll fix that one up when putting the radio back together) are
not the type you find in portables.  They are the ones you will usually
find on most tabletop sets.



Article: 339571 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:26:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1155508006.302175.161840@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <RREDg.71133$_J1.722650@twister2.libero.it>


robert casey wrote:
> Daniele wrote:
>
> > And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA'
> > appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART',
> > actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy.
>
> If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART
> set to listen to his show....   ;-)

Realign it! Don't you know gas expands and moves to fill all space?



Article: 339572 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:28:30 -0700
Message-ID: <1155508110.850755.76410@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155381366.322628.124400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Oh, I forgot the volume doesn't crackle unless I actually turn the
volume control, so as I have no idea where to use lubricant or what
type to use, I'll leave that for now.  Doesn't really bother me much.



Article: 339573 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:31:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1155508262.173012.326610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> These blackened things are 1 cm square so I think they are the IF
> transformers.  I haven't gotten around to taking photos, but I will do
> it today.  The set is still in pieces on a workbench waiting for me to
> have a closer look at it.  I've never really worked on a radio before,
> so this will teach me.  My next project I hope is to actually work on a
> valve (tube) set!  THAT will be fun. And, Steven all the 4 knobs (1 is
> missing, another is loose which isn't shown in the existing photo's on
> Flickr, I'll fix that one up when putting the radio back together) are
> not the type you find in portables.  They are the ones you will usually
> find on most tabletop sets.

Good on you, mate! Many of those sets you've got there are something
else. If you go to the races, bet on My Envy for whatever you find!



Article: 339574 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:34:38 -0700
Message-ID: <1155508477.937737.207500@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> :*p wrote:
> >
> > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are
> > screwing them and not the other way.
> >
> > %
>
>
>    The same goes for you, Skippy.  So you've learned to set a fictitious
> follow-up? Plonk.
>
>
> --
> Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
> prove it.
> Member of DAV #85.
>
> Michael A. Terrell
> Central Florida

I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike
Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool
Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to
fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try
to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not
try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will
not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I
will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell
I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike
Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool
Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to
fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try
to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not
try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will
not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I
will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell
I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike
Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool
Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to
fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try
to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not
try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will
not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I
will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell
I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike
Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool
Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to
fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try
to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not
try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will
not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I
will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell
I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike
Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool
Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to
fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try
to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not
try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will
not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I
will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell
I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike
Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool
Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to
fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try
to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not
try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will
not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I
will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell
I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike
Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool
Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to
fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try
to fool Mike Terrell  I will not try to fool Mike Terrell  I will not
try to fool Mike Terrell  the chalk is too small!



Article: 339575 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:51:33 -0700
Message-ID: <1155509493.165219.116070@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Steven wrote:
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> > :*p wrote:
> > >
> > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are
> > > screwing them and not the other way.
> > >
> > > %
> >
> >
> >    The same goes for you, Skippy.  So you've learned to set a fictitious
> > follow-up? Plonk.

Plonk lower. man...

Now walk on my back.

PS Kooks just keep getting harder to blind...

I'd like to thank Google for teaching me the 'pick and roll', and of
course tha Man for making Michael Terrell everything he isn't. And may
I leave the statue and take the supermodel home?



Article: 339576 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: NAD 2200 POWER ENVELOPE STEREO AMP-400 WATTS/CHANNEL-$275
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:54:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1155509665.796140.132240@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154036760.729140.261010@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Steven wrote:
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> > :*p wrote:
> > >
> > > Until you learn grasshopper, DO NOT post to crossposters unless you are
> > > screwing them and not the other way.
> > >
> > > %
> >
> >
> >    The same goes for you, Skippy.  So you've learned to set a fictitious
> > follow-up? Plonk.

What exactly is the purpose of a peanut butter fetish anyway? No wonder
radio guys tend to be lonely, they must creep out chicks.



Article: 339577 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: 13 Aug 2006 15:57:20 -0700
Message-ID: <1155509840.420307.148950@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


robert casey wrote:
> schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many
> > "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon
> > bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED.
> >
>
> Use a red and green 3 legged LED.  The neon orange color could be
> simulated by a mix of the red and the green light.  Something like the
> red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon
> orange color.  This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets.
> >

That's what ya get if the blue gun is weak or dead! Been there, it's
Halloweenish I know!



Article: 339578 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: KUTZTOWN SEPT 22-23 who's going?
Date: 13 Aug 2006 16:01:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1155510071.361571.43970@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebWdnVnZ0t_UwUbZnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@comcast.com>


lewallie@aol.com wrote:
> lewal...@aol.com wrote:
> > There will be steak dinner friday night.

How in the WORLD?

?OH? OH! Was it the > that tricked Google?

Neat trick I may try someday. I'll bet you were trying to hide the
steak dinner so you could take home leftovers ;-) Nice try



Article: 339579 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "HobbyBox" <hobby.box@gmail.com>
Subject: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 13 Aug 2006 16:04:51 -0700
Message-ID: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Hey Everyone,

After struggling with this for a little bit of time now, I figured I
need to turn to the pros.  I have one and a half Majestic Super-Dynamic
G-2 speakers, and I trying get one working for a Majestic console that
I am slowly working on restoring.  The problem is, the field coils for
both of the ones I have are dead.  There is no continuity between the
leads of the field coil, and, upon further investigation, the break is
not in the leads, but appears to be somewhere in the coil itself
(within the paper).

Without completely tearing these coils apart, and pulling wire until I
find the break, is there any helpful hints for fixing this?  Is it
common for these to open up like this internally?  Is there a place
that sells replacements?  Essentially, what can I do without having to
pay someone to re-string the entire coil?  What would that cost?

Sorry for all the questions.  I am new to this art of radio
restoration, so any help would be great!

One last question, I promise.  I have the speaker cone, and it is in
good shape, but I want to preserve it.  I have heard about gluing and
other techniques.  Is that a good technique to preserve the paper?

Thank for everything!
-Nate



Article: 339580 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Carl WA1KPD" <nantucketbound@yahoo.com>
Subject: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help!
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:58:16 -0400
Message-ID: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com>

-OK

I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day inside 
working on a radio.



Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have done 
and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts.



I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF output. 
The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I cannot get rid 
of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as soon as I put any 
45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in my other AK 55 so 
that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ go way up on my 
scope once the tubes are plugged in



The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for 
neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. 
They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. 
However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids and 
output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a design?



All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with the 
field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too.



How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp??????



Any body have any thoughts on this?






-- 
Carl
WA1KPD
Visit My Boatanchor Collection at 
http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html





Article: 339581 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com>
Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help!
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 09:04:33 +0900
Message-ID: <eboeh7$omo$1@news2.kornet.net>
References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com>



-- 
Say no to institutionalized interference.
Just say NO to HD/IBOC!
"Carl WA1KPD" <nantucketbound@yahoo.com> wrote in message 
news:9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com...
> -OK
>
> I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day 
> inside working on a radio.
>
>
>
> Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have 
> done and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts.
>
>
>
> I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF 
> output. The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I 
> cannot get rid of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as 
> soon as I put any 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in 
> my other AK 55 so that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ 
> go way up on my scope once the tubes are plugged in
>
>
>
> The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for 
> neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. 
> They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. 
> However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids 
> and output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a 
> design?
>
>
>
> All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with 
> the field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too.
>
>
>
> How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp??????
>
>
>
> Any body have any thoughts on this?
>
>
>

Have you checked the center tapping resistor across the filaments for an 
open?  Perhaps the 80 is weak/asymmetrical? 




Article: 339582 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Black Dial and bluebird UPDATE
Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:23:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1155515014.422878.251510@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1153952283.300964.3230@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

After a few days wondering when it would come (seller had job
obligations I guess) I got my final invoice for $50 including
insurance, in two boxes...

It's all good and now I'm off to go pay for it and send it.

Now I have to keep up a dialogue with the guy who has the signal
generator and keep searching for my scope.

I hope my grandmother is pleased to see it when I finish. It's gonna be
a humdinger!



Article: 339583 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com>
Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help!
Message-ID: <nJPDg.739$Ji1.393@trnddc05>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:46:11 GMT

This is just a shot in the dark, without looking at any schematics, but did 
you check to see if there may be an internal short in the transformer? 
Maybe primary shorted to secondary, or shorted to the chassis?



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com



"Carl WA1KPD" <nantucketbound@yahoo.com> wrote in message 
news:9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com...
> -OK
>
> I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day 
> inside working on a radio.
>
>
>
> Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have 
> done and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts.
>
>
>
> I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF 
> output. The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I 
> cannot get rid of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as 
> soon as I put any 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in 
> my other AK 55 so that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ 
> go way up on my scope once the tubes are plugged in
>
>
>
> The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for 
> neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT. 
> They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT. 
> However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids 
> and output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a 
> design?
>
>
>
> All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with 
> the field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too.
>
>
>
> How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp??????
>
>
>
> Any body have any thoughts on this?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Carl
> WA1KPD
> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at 
> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html
>
>
> 




Article: 339584 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help!
Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:47:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1155516429.686332.4500@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com>

Sounds to me like the bias on the 45s is way too low. IIRC, the
filaments should be about 45V more positive than the grids, so I
suspect that in recapping you may have shorted out the biasing
resistance in series with the centre tap of the B+ winding, or returned
one or more filter caps to the wrong point.
With low bias, the 45s will draw far too much current, which will
depress the B+, increase the ripple and put hummmm out to the speaker
as well as put ripply current through the field coil.
I am assuming you have checked the continuity of the primary and
secondary of the p-p driver transformer.

Neil S.

Carl WA1KPD wrote:
> -OK
>
> I am glad I have a cold as I do not mind having spent such a nice day inside
> working on a radio.
>
>
>
> Fixing an AK-55 for a friend of mine. Not the first restoration I have done
> and not my first AK-55. But this one is driving me nuts.
>
>
>
> I have replaced all of the filter caps and am trying to tame the AF output.
> The rest of the radio seems fine. I have a LOUD AC hum that I cannot get rid
> of.. The HV drops substantially and the hum kicks in as soon as I put any
> 45s in the sockets. I have tried some 45s that work in my other AK 55 so
> that rules out the tubes. I can see the AC ripple on B+ go way up on my
> scope once the tubes are plugged in
>
>
>
> The only thing that seems at all out of line to me is that the CT for
> neither the output primary or the secondary to the grids is an exact CT.
> They are both slightly higher on one side. It is more like 60/40 then CT.
> However there are colors called out for and the high side for the grids and
> output is consistent on one tube so I am assuming that it may be a design?
>
>
>
> All voltages look otherwise Ok, and I am using the correct speaker with the
> field coil. Resistance in the coil looks fine too.
>
>
>
> How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp??????
>
>
>
> Any body have any thoughts on this?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Carl
> WA1KPD
> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at
> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html



Article: 339585 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: djep1@juno.com
Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help!
Date: 13 Aug 2006 17:51:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com>

 > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp??????
>
>
>
> Any body have any thoughts on this?
>
> --
> Carl
> WA1KPD
> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at
> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html

  Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V
as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field
coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also,
the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct?


Jeff



Article: 339586 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> <fM2dnSiKzZpdpELZnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com> <JZHDg.4660$5M.3149@trnddc02> <s5tud29ki2qmlrppk4tlsuaulfilsb95jg@4ax.com>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Message-ID: <_QPDg.740$Ji1.343@trnddc05>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:54:18 GMT


"Registered User" <n4jvp@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message 
news:s5tud29ki2qmlrppk4tlsuaulfilsb95jg@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:57:29 GMT, "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
> It sounds as if you are talking about grid-leak resistors that were
> never intended to be soldered into a circuit.
>
> regards
> Fritz

I'm referring to those big ceramic carbon resistors with a single paint 
splotch for a color code.  They have metal tips, and you'll find out the 
hard way that the tips are actually made of solder, when you try to desolder 
one end from the lug to check resistance.  Anyone who has worked on an 
Atwater Kent knows what I'm talking about.



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com




Article: 339587 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:05:23 -0700
Message-ID: <1155517523.269080.301470@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Well, Nate, you have really answered your own question. If the field is
open circuit, then the only solution is to carfully check such winding
wire as you can access for a break [the break is usually on the inside
end] and then you measure the wire size with a micrometer, buy the
necessary weight of the correct size magnet wire, and rewind the coil
[not as simple as it sounds].
Since I happen to have a winding machine, I always 'de-wind' the coil
to get a turns count and to recover all the 'form' parts [the core tube
and end insulators'. I then make a winding block of heavy wood to
support the core tube and the end insulators against the pressure from
the tension of winding some 1000-2000 turns on the coil. Once wound it
gets a coat of Glyptal insulating varnish to lock it in shape then the
wrapper and leads are attached and finally the winding block is
carefully removed and the coil installed back into the speaker frame.

Cone coatings was discussed only a week or two ago in this group.

Neil S.

HobbyBox wrote:
> Hey Everyone,
>
> After struggling with this for a little bit of time now, I figured I
> need to turn to the pros.  I have one and a half Majestic Super-Dynamic
> G-2 speakers, and I trying get one working for a Majestic console that
> I am slowly working on restoring.  The problem is, the field coils for
> both of the ones I have are dead.  There is no continuity between the
> leads of the field coil, and, upon further investigation, the break is
> not in the leads, but appears to be somewhere in the coil itself
> (within the paper).
>
> Without completely tearing these coils apart, and pulling wire until I
> find the break, is there any helpful hints for fixing this?  Is it
> common for these to open up like this internally?  Is there a place
> that sells replacements?  Essentially, what can I do without having to
> pay someone to re-string the entire coil?  What would that cost?
>
> Sorry for all the questions.  I am new to this art of radio
> restoration, so any help would be great!
>
> One last question, I promise.  I have the speaker cone, and it is in
> good shape, but I want to preserve it.  I have heard about gluing and
> other techniques.  Is that a good technique to preserve the paper?
> 
> Thank for everything!
> -Nate



Article: 339588 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Carter Cook" <cartercook@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:13:23 -0700
Message-ID: <1155518003.237855.215440@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Hello Nate:

Some field coils can be relatively easily removed from the speaker
frame by separating a few nuts and bolts. Others are press fit together
and essentially impractical for home repair.

If yours is removable, it's not too much trouble to strip the wire off
the core and rewind the field coil with approximately the same guage of
wire. It's a matter of chucking the old core onto the business end of
an electric drill, mounting the feed spool of magnet wire on a dowel
and winding about as much wire as you can, as evenly as you can, onto
the core. Ideally, you want to have DC resistance of the newly wound
field coil within a hundred ohms or so of the original resistance. The
value is not critical.

If that's not practical, you can substitute a fixed resistor (or
resistors) for the voltage drop across the field coil and use a modern
permanent magnet speaker. Do a power calculation to determine the
wattage the substitute resistor is going to dissipate. Use a wattage
two or three times the calculated value. This resistor is going to be
large and it's going to get HOT. Mount it in a place where it will get
good air circulation - probably not under the chassis. Keep in mind
that the leads of this resistor will carry high voltage, so the leads
should be protected from accidental contact.



Article: 339589 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com>
Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help!
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:16:46 +0900
Message-ID: <eboioi$q40$1@news2.kornet.net>
References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>



-- 
Say no to institutionalized interference.
Just say NO to HD/IBOC!
<djep1@juno.com> wrote in message 
news:1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp??????
>>
>>
>>
>> Any body have any thoughts on this?
>>
>> --
>> Carl
>> WA1KPD
>> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at
>> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html
>
>  Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V
> as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field
> coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also,
> the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct?
>

First two filters do not go to ground directly.  Beyond that, there are two 
resistors which more or less split the field coil, and the capacitor at the 
center point between them goes to ground. This point feeds the grid bias for 
the outputs.

See Beitman's Vol. 1, Page 14.





Article: 339590 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard)
Subject: Re: A-K55 AF Amp from Heck Help!
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 18:13:37 -0700
Message-ID: <3346-44DFCE41-266@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net>
References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com>

>From Carl=A0(WA1KPD): 

>-OK
>
>...the CT for neither the output primary 
>or the secondary to the grids is an exact 
>CT. They are both slightly higher on one 
>side. It is more like 60/40 than CT.

Sounds pretty normal. They're actually CT in _number of turns_ either
side of center. But the length of wire increases as radius of the
winding increases. Thus the outermost windings will have higher DC
resistance than the innermost windings.
                   
Your problem is most likely a bias issue as another poster mentioned. 

Bill(oc)    



Article: 339591 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa)
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <x1%Cg.3492$uW1.66@dukeread06> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com>
Message-ID: <ugQDg.89600$FQ1.69948@attbi_s71>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 01:23:38 GMT

In article <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com>, yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net 
says...
>
>
>
>That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no 
>eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder.
>
>john H. 
>
>
yup and that approach works as long as you don't move the joint while it
is cooling.. wonder how AK always did that?

John k9uwa



Article: 339592 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Stephanie Weil" <stephanienyc@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:42:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <RREDg.71133$_J1.722650@twister2.libero.it>


robert casey wrote:

> If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART
> set to listen to his show....   ;-)

That'd be kind of hard, since I suspect this is an AM-only radio. :D

--
steph



Article: 339593 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Stephanie Weil" <stephanienyc@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: NordMende Carmen 55
Date: 13 Aug 2006 18:57:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1155520642.609787.275730@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155497258.375171.21460@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Martin Crossley wrote:

> Is it this set?
> http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/nordmende_carmen_55.html

Hahaha...Bingo Martin.  Not a bad story for a 1950s radio, is it? :)

--
Stephanie Weil



Article: 339594 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations
Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:13:58 -0700
Message-ID: <1155521638.697914.185780@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Some new pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davehenning/sets/72157594235922473/

I took the whole thing *(chassis, speaker) out of the cabinet, when I
put it all together, double checking each connection of course, I
powered the radio up, and the volume wasn't as loud as it was before.
To check if it was the speaker that was the problem, I wired in a
modern hi-fi speaker and it blasted ouyt sound.  So now I need a
replacement 6 inch speaker!  I have the one I used for the test but it
5 inches.  Too small. I'm thinking I should l;eave the shot speaker in
the cabinet disconnected until I find a replacement of the same size
and put the hi-fi speaker back in it's cabinet and wire that up for
now.  Also it has the function for a phonograph but where do you
connect it.  I want to connect a CD player.  It has two holes in the
back of the chassis, and one jack on the front of the cabinet that is
the type of headphone plug you would see on '60's phono's .  Not the
modern type plug. But it takes 5 pins on top in the shape of this \ | /
and one square pin at the bottom.  Tried to get a clear pic of this
without fail. And I can only get about two stations on the dial (AM
band).  What's up with that?  I had a wire antenna connected but I
stepped on that and accidently ripped it out.  It has a ferrite bar.



Article: 339595 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations
Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:20:16 -0700
Message-ID: <1155522016.698324.181470@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

UPDATE! Tried original speaker again and it has good volume again.  Not
quite as good as the hi-fi speaker but decent enought that I'll wire it
back in.  I'll keep the hi-fi speaker handy though.



Article: 339596 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "HobbyBox" <hobby.box@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:27:05 -0700
Message-ID: <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Thanks for the advice, Neil and Carter!  I think I just needed the bit
of confidence in attempting to respool my own wire.  I figured that was
the route I had to go, but didn't know how involved it was going to be.
 I think I'll have to start constructing my spoiling jig now :)

Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire?  This
spool seems rather large.

This looks like it might be a fun challenge.  I'll let you all know how
it goes... whenever I get the time to complete it all.

If you happen on any further advice, definitely let me know!  I am in
need of any and all.

Thanks,
Nate



Article: 339597 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations
Date: 13 Aug 2006 19:55:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1155524149.184618.64050@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

The speaker has improved a bit now.  I must have missed something like
made a wrong connection. My cat was annoying me, trying to get in the
radio, and just being a pain.  Listening to it now, to some sports
thing.  Sound is not exactly perfect but does me.  I don't want it loud
in case I damage the speaker.  The cone's very brittle.  Probably will
eventually get a replacement.  Can't complain for something I got for
nothing I guess.  Huge radio.  I have it in my bedroom and it takes up
most of my drawers chest.  I have another '60's portable and a
reproduction Philco 90, and both of them sit comfortably on top with
room to spare.  The portable has problems though.  Only works when it
wants to, which is fine with me, as I only want it for display.  One
more thing.  What year was this beast manfactured?  Sorry for my
ramblings, I get carried away



Article: 339598 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Carl WA1KPD" <nantucketbound@yahoo.com>
References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <eboioi$q40$1@news2.kornet.net>
Subject: Re: A-K55 Fixed
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 22:56:28 -0400
Message-ID: <DtqdncUMSdjCe0LZnZ2dnUVZ_oednZ2d@comcast.com>

"Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com> wrote > First two filters do not go to 
ground directly.

BINGO, we have a winner. That was indeed it and boy do I feel dumb. Working 
fast in a daze and everyone knows that filter caps (-) go to ground.  Except 
in a lot of old radios. As soon as I read that post I knew the problem. 
Upstairs, 15 minutes of rewiring and it is sweet sounding.

Many thanks and 73. I have done this before in other radios and feel a 
little bit silly

All hail Brenda

-- 
Carl
WA1KPD
Visit My Boatanchor Collection at 
http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html

"Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com> wrote in message 
news:eboioi$q40$1@news2.kornet.net...
>
>
> -- 
> Say no to institutionalized interference.
> Just say NO to HD/IBOC!
> <djep1@juno.com> wrote in message 
> news:1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>> > How much could go wring with a simple PP triode amp??????
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Any body have any thoughts on this?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Carl
>>> WA1KPD
>>> Visit My Boatanchor Collection at
>>> http://home.comcast.net/~chnord/wa1kpd.html
>>
>>  Have you looked at the bias on the grids of the 45's? s/b about -45V
>> as I recall (A bit less than half of the voltage across the field
>> coil). There is a resistive divider and a bypass cap involved. Also,
>> the - of the filters doesn't run to the chassis ground, correct?
>>
>
Beyond that, there are two
> resistors which more or less split the field coil, and the capacitor at 
> the center point between them goes to ground. This point feeds the grid 
> bias for the outputs.
>
> See Beitman's Vol. 1, Page 14.
>
>
> 




Article: 339599 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Bill Morris" <zac@mw.net>
References: <RREDg.71133$_J1.722650@twister2.libero.it>   <ulMDg.3886$Qf.2258@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> <1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 23:09:37 -0400
Message-ID: <44dfe969$0$1017$39cecf19@news.twtelecom.net>

So you plug it in, switch it on and it gives off a funny odor.  Blame it on 
the dog.....


"Stephanie Weil" <stephanienyc@gmail.com> wrote in message 
news:1155519767.320637.215220@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> robert casey wrote:
>
>> If Howard Stern were still on regular radio stations, I'd use this FART
>> set to listen to his show....   ;-)
>
> That'd be kind of hard, since I suspect this is an AM-only radio. :D
>
> --
> steph
> 




Article: 339600 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com>
Subject: Re: A-K55 Fixed
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:30:10 +0900
Message-ID: <eboqin$sqh$1@news2.kornet.net>
References: <9fudnTmYs-QEIULZnZ2dnUVZ_rmdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155516716.438941.277940@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <eboioi$q40$1@news2.kornet.net> <DtqdncUMSdjCe0LZnZ2dnUVZ_oednZ2d@comcast.com>



-- 
Say no to institutionalized interference.
Just say NO to HD/IBOC!
"Carl WA1KPD" <nantucketbound@yahoo.com> wrote in message 
news:DtqdncUMSdjCe0LZnZ2dnUVZ_oednZ2d@comcast.com...
> "Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com> wrote > First two filters do not go to 
> ground directly.
>
> BINGO, we have a winner. That was indeed it and boy do I feel dumb. 
> Working fast in a daze and everyone knows that filter caps (-) go to 
> ground.  Except in a lot of old radios. As soon as I read that post I knew 
> the problem. Upstairs, 15 minutes of rewiring and it is sweet sounding.
>
> Many thanks and 73. I have done this before in other radios and feel a 
> little bit silly
>

I try to help, but some of the others deserve as much credit. :)





Article: 339601 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 13 Aug 2006 20:51:06 -0700
Message-ID: <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

There are several magnet wire suppliers listed if you Google 'magnet
wire'. Once you have determined the wire gauge [diameter to an accuracy
of 1/10,000 "], and you have weighed the existing coil, you can contact
the suppliers and see who will sell you "single weight" polythermaleze
of the correct size and in the quantity you need.

Neil S.

HobbyBox wrote:
> Thanks for the advice, Neil and Carter!  I think I just needed the bit
> of confidence in attempting to respool my own wire.  I figured that was
> the route I had to go, but didn't know how involved it was going to be.
>  I think I'll have to start constructing my spoiling jig now :)
>
> Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire?  This
> spool seems rather large.
>
> This looks like it might be a fun challenge.  I'll let you all know how
> it goes... whenever I get the time to complete it all.
>
> If you happen on any further advice, definitely let me know!  I am in
> need of any and all.
> 
> Thanks,
> Nate



Article: 339602 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: It speaks!
Message-ID: <Z6TDg.56392$u05.8958@trnddc01>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 04:38:17 GMT

Some of you may have been following my acquisition of a console 
consisting of a 1938 7 tube Zenith shutterdial chassis in a Sparton 
cabinet.

I finally had some time to work on the chassis some this weekend. I 
replaced the electrolytics as well as a capacitor hanging off the audio 
output tube and another cap and resistor (out of tolerance) that 
happened to share some of the same lugs. I applied power, no smoke or 
funny sounds, and then a short while later I was greeted by a buzz. A 
twirl of the dial and people bitching about politics blared from the 
speaker, not my first choice of listening material but it works! I was 
pleased to find a fair amount of activity on the SW band though the 
tuning seems a bit twitchy, as well as a tiny amount on the "Police" 
band which all in all is pretty impressive given my antenna is about 6' 
of wire strewn across the floor.

It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning 
feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but 
is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker 
wires and there's still a fair amount of cleaning and other cosmetic 
work to do but it's off to a good start. I've been restuffing the 
original capacitors as practice, it does slow things down a bit but it's 
not as difficult as I would have assumed. I cheated and used hot glue 
instead of salvaging the original brown wax and then dipping the 
finished cap in molten white candle wax to give it that waxy look, it'd 
take a close eye to ever see the difference.

I'm already feeling the itch to get another radio too, hopefully I can 
find a nice little wood cased table radio at some point, an AA5 would be 
fine, I'm *hoping* that that'll be enough, I don't want my whole house 
stacked with radios, at some point I wouldn't mind trading up to a nicer 
all original console though.


Article: 339603 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "AuroraOldRadios" <menwagoh@msn.com>
Subject: Re: It speaks!
Date: 13 Aug 2006 21:51:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1155531113.977189.274670@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <Z6TDg.56392$u05.8958@trnddc01>


James Sweet wrote:
> Some of you may have been following my acquisition of a console
> consisting of a 1938 7 tube Zenith shutterdial chassis in a Sparton
> cabinet.
>
> I finally had some time to work on the chassis some this weekend. I
> replaced the electrolytics as well as a capacitor hanging off the audio
> output tube and another cap and resistor (out of tolerance) that
> happened to share some of the same lugs. I applied power, no smoke or
> funny sounds, and then a short while later I was greeted by a buzz. A
> twirl of the dial and people bitching about politics blared from the
> speaker, not my first choice of listening material but it works! I was
> pleased to find a fair amount of activity on the SW band though the
> tuning seems a bit twitchy, as well as a tiny amount on the "Police"
> band which all in all is pretty impressive given my antenna is about 6'
> of wire strewn across the floor.
>
> It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning
> feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but
> is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker
> wires and there's still a fair amount of cleaning and other cosmetic
> work to do but it's off to a good start. I've been restuffing the
> original capacitors as practice, it does slow things down a bit but it's
> not as difficult as I would have assumed. I cheated and used hot glue
> instead of salvaging the original brown wax and then dipping the
> finished cap in molten white candle wax to give it that waxy look, it'd
> take a close eye to ever see the difference.
>
> I'm already feeling the itch to get another radio too, hopefully I can
> find a nice little wood cased table radio at some point, an AA5 would be
> fine, I'm *hoping* that that'll be enough, I don't want my whole house
> stacked with radios, at some point I wouldn't mind trading up to a nicer
> all original console though.

What? You don't want consoles and tombstones stacked to the ceiling?
Once you get the "bug" it'll be hard to stop. Isn't it a grand feeling
to power up a newly-repaired chassis and hear it work?



Article: 339604 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "AuroraOldRadios" <menwagoh@msn.com>
Subject: FS: Zenith branded globe 45 aka TYPE Z-45, used
Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:06:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1155532019.233227.174650@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

FS: Somebody here might need one for a Zenith late 20s console. Looks
good, tests 750 where 575 is minimum, no gas, passes life test, no
shorts (Hickok 752). Also a quick emission test shows it to be strong.
No loose particles inside glass, good getter. Big globe with engraved
base, Zenith Type Z-45.
$65 includes shipping to CUSA. Guaranteed good (your test results may
vary).
reply to: menwagoh at msn d0t c0m



Article: 339605 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com>
Subject: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 00:14:09 -0500
Message-ID: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>

I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though.

This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by 
Clinton. Looks like this:
http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg
11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed 
to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under 
some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the 
cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't 
photograph well.

Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80.

Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on 
it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style 
nail-on tags.

Thanks
paul 



-- 
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



Article: 339606 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations
Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:25:53 -0700
Message-ID: <1155533153.818248.286890@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> The speaker has improved a bit now.  I must have missed something like
> made a wrong connection. My cat was annoying me, trying to get in the
> radio, and just being a pain.  Listening to it now, to some sports
> thing.  Sound is not exactly perfect but does me.  I don't want it loud
> in case I damage the speaker.  The cone's very brittle.  Probably will
> eventually get a replacement.  Can't complain for something I got for
> nothing I guess.  Huge radio.  I have it in my bedroom and it takes up
> most of my drawers chest.  I have another '60's portable and a
> reproduction Philco 90, and both of them sit comfortably on top with
> room to spare.  The portable has problems though.  Only works when it
> wants to, which is fine with me, as I only want it for display.  One
> more thing.  What year was this beast manfactured?  Sorry for my
> ramblings, I get carried away

Dave, ask one of the speaker experts such as Ken G. about treating the
cone short term vs. a recone. Since I have no idea about where to find
reconers in your area, treatment and lighter usage seems to be a great
idea until you find this service.



Article: 339607 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Black Dial and bluebird UPDATE
Date: 13 Aug 2006 22:27:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1155533266.470961.274210@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1153952283.300964.3230@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Mail being mailed, I'll let you know when I know and I get it.



Article: 339608 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 01:39:50 -0400
Message-ID: <BsidnX9zBPtOln3ZnZ2dnUVZ_o6dnZ2d@comcast.com>

I recall seeing this dial under the name "Imperial" in the Stein books...
its definitely a "supplier" made set.  It could have been sold under the
Lafayette name too I think.

Mark Oppat


"Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com> wrote in message
news:44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though.
>
> This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by
> Clinton. Looks like this:
> http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg
> 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder
failed
> to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there
under
> some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the
> cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't
> photograph well.
>
> Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80.
>
> Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is
on
> it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent
maker-style
> nail-on tags.
>
> Thanks
> paul
>
>
>
> -- 
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
>





Article: 339609 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations
Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:13:32 -0700
Message-ID: <1155536012.823179.295660@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

How would I go about getting an AM transmitter so I can broadcast my
music to it?  I have a FM transitter, but not AM. I'm willing to build
one. Do not know where I can get one, or the parts for one.



Article: 339610 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations
Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:21:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1155536474.735725.9380@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

I've already got the itch to get another antique radio.  I've started
watching out on eBay for any I can do a practice restore on.  I want a
valve (tube) radio next.  There's nothing like listening to that rich
sound an old valve radio has.



Article: 339611 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shot Speaker and radio not picking up much stations
Date: 13 Aug 2006 23:33:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1155537234.907825.70130@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

Think I found one to learn on
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HMV-LITTLE-NIPPER-SUPER-5-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ280016193029QQihZ018QQcategoryZ3284QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



Article: 339612 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Scott W. Harvey" <NOT_MY_REAL@email.com>
Subject: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO?
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 23:58:23 -0700
Message-ID: <ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com>

I just got done with a recap and alignment of a Zenith 8G005 
Trans-Oceanic. It plays great with its built-in antennas and is very 
sensitive.

I would like to place this radio on the middle of a series of shelves, 
which precludes extending the giant built-in whip antenna. Unlike the 
later 1950s TOs, this radio does not have provisions for connecting an 
external longwire antennna (there is no A or G terminals on the back of 
the set). I tried extending the antenna just enough to clip a longwire 
antenna to it, but that doesn't work too well. I get audio that sounds 
like someone is gargling and there is hum that appears whenever I tune 
into a station. Is there anything I can do to allow a longwire antenna 
to be used as the primary antenna on this set without the gargling?

-Scott


Article: 339613 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com>
Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO?
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:46:30 +0900
Message-ID: <ebpd3r$8dn$1@news2.kornet.net>
References: <ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com>



-- 
Say no to institutionalized interference.
Just say NO to HD/IBOC!
"Scott W. Harvey" <NOT_MY_REAL@email.com> wrote in message 
news:ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com...
>I just got done with a recap and alignment of a Zenith 8G005 Trans-Oceanic. 
>It plays great with its built-in antennas and is very sensitive.
>
> I would like to place this radio on the middle of a series of shelves, 
> which precludes extending the giant built-in whip antenna. Unlike the 
> later 1950s TOs, this radio does not have provisions for connecting an 
> external longwire antennna (there is no A or G terminals on the back of 
> the set). I tried extending the antenna just enough to clip a longwire 
> antenna to it, but that doesn't work too well. I get audio that sounds 
> like someone is gargling and there is hum that appears whenever I tune 
> into a station. Is there anything I can do to allow a longwire antenna to 
> be used as the primary antenna on this set without the gargling?
>
> -Scott

Interesting. There should be a set of screws right where the monopole 
antenna connects, with the antenna going to the one closest to the monopole 
connection, and the ground to the other. Should look a little like this:


M A G
 v
[] ( ) ( ) 




Article: 339614 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Eddie Brimer" <eb062559@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: 14 Aug 2006 04:35:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1155555311.205871.53180@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>


Paul Dietenberger wrote:
> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though.
>
> This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by
> Clinton. Looks like this:
> http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg
> 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed
> to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under
> some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the
> cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't
> photograph well.
>
> Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80.
>
> Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on
> it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style
> nail-on tags.
>
> Thanks
> paul
>


dand good looking radio you got there paul.
> 
> -- 
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



Article: 339615 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: It speaks!
From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa)
References: <Z6TDg.56392$u05.8958@trnddc01>
Message-ID: <WPZDg.896285$084.472307@attbi_s22>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:15:50 GMT

In article <Z6TDg.56392$u05.8958@trnddc01>, jamessweet@hotmail.com says...
>
>
>It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning 
>feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly but 
>is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the speaker 

Congrats James .... check from pin 2 to 4 in the eye tube socket... 1 meg
resistor inside the socket is usually way way high. Also lack of response 
says that your AVC negative voltage isn't swinging far enough negative
on strong signals ... you need -8 to -9 volts to close the eye if tube
is a 6E5 .. about 25 feet or wire antenna and a 50KW station thats
about 45 miles away and the eye should close if you have all the resistors
and capacitors in the avc curcuit correct.. 
John k9uwa



Article: 339616 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa)
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <JTZDg.896292$084.414601@attbi_s22>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 12:19:53 GMT

In article <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>, 
hobby.box@gmail.com says...
>
>
>Any good sources for being a large bundle of high-guage wire?  This
>spool seems rather large.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Nate
>
If you have a local shop that repairs motors... they will have
the wire you need..
John k9uwa



Article: 339617 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Stein-Olav Lund <stein.o.lund@iet.hist.no>
Subject: Re: (De)soldering techniques
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 14:59:34 +0200
Message-ID: <ebps3m$omu$1@dolly.uninett.no>
References: <1155300902.787861.183610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <7063-44DC8A61-25@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> <1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <44dc8f4c$0$509$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>



Paul Dietenberger wrote:
> "toxcrusadr" <cadyc@mchsi.com> wrote in message 
> news:1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> 
>>Showing my ignorance here, but...
>>
>>1) What are dikes?
> 
> 
> Diagonal cutters.
> 
> 
>>2) How the heck (and when) do you use solder braid?  I can never get
>>solder to go up into it.  Do you put it on the work and put the iron on
>>top of it, or what?  It seems like a pain to use the stuff but maybe
>>I'm using it wrong.  I prefer my solder sucker.

This summer we were at a ham radio repeater doing some repair.
We didn't have any desolder braid, and had to change a component on a 
PCB..Got a tip from one of the guys there:
Take a bit of the insulation off a piece of stranded wire and go into 
the woods, rub a pine tree and get rosin onto it...
He left the site and returned with pine rosin on the wire, and it worked 
like a charm to remove the solder, actually smelt like normal solder rosin!

LA9QV


Article: 339618 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:50:31 -0600
Message-ID: <10418-44E07FA7-166@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net>
References: <44DF8520.49E0E86C@earthlink.net>

so that thermal cycling doesn't separate the tin plating from the steel
component leads.


That might happen once in 50 years . 



Article: 339619 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Scott W. Harvey" <NOT_MY_REAL@email.com>
Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO?
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 07:33:19 -0700
Message-ID: <ebq1ft01538@news3.newsguy.com>
References: <ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com> <ebpd3r$8dn$1@news2.kornet.net>

Brenda Ann wrote:
> Interesting. There should be a set of screws right where the monopole 
> antenna connects, with the antenna going to the one closest to the monopole 
> connection, and the ground to the other. Should look a little like this:
> 
> 
> M A G
>  v
> [] ( ) ( ) 

Not on this set, and not on another 8G005 that I have in the restoration 
queue either. The only antenna connectors that are there are jacks for 
small cylindrical plugs which attach the monopole and Broadcast 
Wavemagnet (and a socket to plug in the shortwave wavemagnet for use in 
planes, trains and automobiles). I'm guessing that Zenith did not 
include the A and G screws to facilitate connection of a longwire until 
they went to miniature tubes in the 1950s (G500 and later), reasoning 
that the monopole was sufficient for shortwave reception (which it is, 
for the most part). I have noticed a bit of the same hum shows up when I 
tune to a very strong SW station using the monopole (not enough to be 
annoying, but it is there), lowering the monopole a bit seems to 
eliminate that. It's been a very long time since I've done an 8G005, and 
this is the version that has the one slender miniature tube for a 
rectifier (which I have never done) so I don't know if this behavior is 
typical of this model or not.

I wonder what is going on here? All of the filter caps have been 
restuffed with brand new caps and the 60 Hz hum coming from the speaker 
with the volume turned all the way down is so low I literally have to 
press my ear to the speaker grille in order to hear any of it at all, so 
I have good reason to believe the replacement caps are healthy.

-Scott


Article: 339620 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: 14 Aug 2006 08:02:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1155567730.938648.35470@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>


Eddie Brimer wrote:
> dand good looking radio you got there paul.

Thanks, I like it.....Wish I could take credit for the refinish but I
can't; it was done by Jerry Huelsbeck upstate with his Binks and it
looks even better in person. He had a lot of work to do, it had been
"antiqued". I bought it from him with only the cabinet done. I get to
do the chassis, and it's rusty dusty mess but it talked to me when I
replaced the filter caps. So it'll be a big job but with any luck it'll
be a nice radio soon. Too bad it's anonymous. It ought to have a name.

-p.



Article: 339621 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard)
Subject: Re: (De)Soldering techniques
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 08:16:05 -0700
Message-ID: <28856-44E093B5-243@storefull-3178.bay.webtv.net>
References: <10418-44E07FA7-166@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net>

It's a bit surprizing there hasn't been more discussion of the method
described earlier- of using a large dikes to split a wiring bundle
lengthwise on the lug, so that when heated, it just separates from the
lug like two sides of ribs. It's hassle free, requires no braid or
solder-slurper, just a large diagonal cutter for leverage, some heat,
and gravity.
               Works in cramped quarters such as in car radios,
especially useful in replacing twist-lok electrolytics having many wires
wrapped on their lugs. Easy on terminal strips and tube socket lugs too,
as minimal flexing stress is imposed on the lug (compared to the stress
of prying and unwinding a lot of the wires while unsoldering).

Bill(oc)  



Article: 339622 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Applications where tubes are still king??
References: <1154980972.462384.103210@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <0jRBg.9349$bo6.5139@bignews7.bellsouth.net> <jbyrns-0908061635170001@216-80-74-244.s244.tnt1.chgo.il.dialup.rcn.com> <ebdqdv$3dr$1@reader2.panix.com> <44DAABF6.8A2A29A5@earthlink.net> <r4vDg.1719$9v1.1220@trnddc07>
Message-ID: <m21Eg.15620$vj1.6651@bignews5.bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:57:24 -0500

James Sweet wrote:
> 
>>
>>
>>    The operating costs for the tube version more than offsets the
>> difference in purchase price, and the smaller number of tube
>> transmitters has narrowed the gap considerably.  You use less
>> electricity for a solid state transmitter, that means less is used for
>> air conditioning.  The transmitter is smaller, and requires less
>> maintenance over its life.  That maintenance can be done by less skilled
>> staff, and it is rare that the transmitter would go down completely,
>> reducing the number of make goods on advertising.  You can continue to
>> run the transmitter with a single bad output module while it is repair
>> locally, or at the factory.  If you need a backup generator and switch
>> gear it will be cheaper, as well.  Thales and Harris are the only two
>> manufacturers I'm still familiar with.  Thales bought Comark, which made
>> the last big transmitter I worked on. All solid state, except the
>> Klystrons, and it was delivered a week before the Klystrodes hit the
>> market.  It uses three 65 KW Klystrons, two Visual, and one Aural.  It
>> cost over $45,000 to rebuild one of the Klystrons in 1990.
>>
> 
> 
> 
> That may well be true, but it doesn't change the fact that many people 
> still shop strictly by price. Look at how many people still use 25 cent 
> incandescent lightbulbs despite the fact that a $3 compact fluorescent 
> will more than pay for itself in electricity savings, or who will buy a 
> $99 Wal-Mart special TV instead of paying $150 to get their older high 
> end Sony repaired.
> 
Unfortunately, the $99 Walmart will probably have desirable features 
unavailable on the ten year old Sony.  Even though ten years life is a 
pipe dream for the WM special, in a decade, the HD will likely have 
finally taken off, so even the WM set will be obsolete if it still works 
at all.

The light bulb example doesn't work either, as incandescents are better 
at some things than CFL's.  The color temp is more agreeable to many. 
They fire up to full brightness immediately.  They can be used outdoors. 
  They can be dimmed reliably...and speaking of reliability, that's a 
factor as well.  There is nothing quite so disheartening than to spend 
several times extra for a supposedly 'long life' product, only to find 
it didn't last any longer than the standard product it was supposed to 
replace.

I think the LED is a much better technology, with more potential for 
eventually replacing the heated wire as a source of light.

jak



Article: 339623 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <x1%Cg.3492$uW1.66@dukeread06> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> <jvcsd29gaktmqdtf1fqjfppri0il3beume@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:00:46 -0500

Mike wrote:
> On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar"
> <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote:
> 
>> "John Goller, k9uwa" <k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF> wrote in message 
>> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72...
>>
>>> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint..
>>>
>> That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no 
>> eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder.
>>
>> john H. 
>>
> Sounds like early Surface Mount Technology (heh, heh)
> 
> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when
> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. 
> 
> Mike
> 
Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint.  The 
lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to 
speak of.

jak



Article: 339624 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
References: <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <26261-44DF36E9-502@storefull-3238.bay.webtv.net> <fM2dnSiKzZpdpELZnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@comcast.com>
Message-ID: <t71Eg.15622$vj1.1679@bignews5.bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:02:52 -0500

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>> Good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint...
> 
> I would disagree here. A good solder joint starts with clean leads and clean
> terminals.
> 
> We've gone through this before, but I'll repeat it... Many years ago J.
> Gordon Holt, founder of "The Stereophile", argued for simply slipping the
> leads into the lugs without bending them around. His argument was that this
> not only save assembly time and effort, but made it easier to replace
> components.
> 
As I pointed out above, this is exactly what happens on every joint, on 
every printed circuit.  Without the solder, the components would simply 
fall off.

jak

> Broadly speaking, I agree. But this method requires cleanliness and close
> attention to the quality of the joint.
> 
> 
> 



Article: 339625 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard)
Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO?
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 08:58:02 -0700
Message-ID: <14519-44E09D8A-504@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>
References: <ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com>

>From Scott:

>I get audio that sounds like someone is 
>gargling and there is hum that appears 
>whenever I tune into a station.

There is a phenomenon called 'tunable hum' wherein the received signal
gets 'modulated' by the 60 cycle powerline. It's usually caused by SS
diodes somewhere nearby acting as an RF switch, switching a section of
house wiring 'on' and 'off' to RF at 60 cycle rate.  

>Is there anything I can do to allow a 
>longwire antenna to be used as the 
>primary antenna on this set without the 
>gargling?

Try turning off all nearby equipment containing SS diodes in the power
supply. If you've replaced the TO's selenium with a SS diode, try
reversing the AC plug in the wall outlet. Have you tried running the TO
on batteries? 
                           Bill(oc)   



Article: 339626 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6pMDg.3888$Qf.3778@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 11:06:18 -0500

robert casey wrote:
> schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote:
> 
>> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many
>> "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon
>> bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED.
>>
> 
> Use a red and green 3 legged LED.  The neon orange color could be 
> simulated by a mix of the red and the green light.  Something like the 
> red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon 
> orange color.  This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets.
>>
> 
To complete the illusion, you might add some kind of circuit to make it 
flicker as well.



Article: 339627 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS)
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:21:15 GMT
Message-ID: <ebq7tt$8ie$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <6pMDg.3888$Qf.3778@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net> <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>

In article <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>robert casey wrote:
>> schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote:
>> 
>>> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many
>>> "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon
>>> bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED.
>>>
>> 
>> Use a red and green 3 legged LED.  The neon orange color could be 
>> simulated by a mix of the red and the green light.  Something like the 
>> red being twice as bright as the green should look close to the neon 
>> orange color.  This trick is used in color CRT displays and TV sets.
>>>
>> 
>To complete the illusion, you might add some kind of circuit to make it 
>flicker as well.


And burn out also.

greg


Article: 339628 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "big_john" <jb_mcmahon@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO?
Date: 14 Aug 2006 09:21:45 -0700
Message-ID: <1155572505.420750.40240@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com>

You can take a coil with MANY windings on it (can be small or large in
size) and hook one end to an outside antenna and the other end to an
earth ground.  Place the coil near the radio and it will couple the
signal to the built-in antenna the radio has.  You may have to orient
the coil a bit for best signal strength.



Article: 339629 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS)
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:27:05 GMT
Message-ID: <ebq88r$8ie$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <x1%Cg.3492$uW1.66@dukeread06> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> <jvcsd29gaktmqdtf1fqjfppri0il3beume@4ax.com> <v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net>

In article <v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net>, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>Mike wrote:
>> On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar"
>> <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> "John Goller, k9uwa" <k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF> wrote in message 
>>> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72...
>>>
>>>> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint..
>>>>
>>> That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no
> 
>>> eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder.
>>>
>>> john H. 
>>>
>> Sounds like early Surface Mount Technology (heh, heh)
>> 
>> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when
>> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. 
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint.  The 
>lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to 
>speak of.

There is always mechanical contact when doing PCB's. It may be poor but
surface mount components touch down before soldering. I think the worse case is flat packs and 
large thin leaded processors chips, where the leads are very thin and may be the 
case where there is not good contact first.

greg


Article: 339630 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155442489.853218.311050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <1155453725.474288.280800@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1155457765.211438.125640@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>   <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Message-ID: <JM1Eg.1158$Ji1.513@trnddc05>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 16:45:29 GMT

Although it appears Steven has given you a tremendous amount of help 
already, I think I'll chime in for a moment.

The crackling you're hearing, is it a noise that you hear when you adjust 
the volume control, or is it a distortion that you hear the entire time the 
radio is playing?

You mentioned a torn speaker cone; if the speaker's cone is warped and the 
voice coil is rubbing against the magnet, you will indeed hear distortion 
and you may need to replace your speaker.  A substitute speaker, as you 
mentioned is the best way to troubleshoot this.

If the crackling sound is a static noise you get when adjusting the volume 
control, then indeed you should try cleaning the control.  As for what to 
use, there are debates on this list till kingdom come, but personally I've 
had the best luck with WD-40 -- and you don't necessarily need to wait till 
tomorrow to use the radio; I use it right away.  Now -- others I'm sure will 
chime in, saying that WD-40 will turn it into a pumpkin or something, but 
I've used it for many years with excellent results -- and I was told about 
it from a manufacturer.  I also know that many on this list believe in 
De-Oxit.  I was in a store and bought some, what turned out to be De-Ox-Id, 
with a "d", by GC Electronics.  It works, although WD-40 works noticeably 
better.  Someday I'll find the stuff with the "t" and compare it.  But 
heck -- even Radio Shack cleaner will work -- it's not my favorite but it 
will work.  If it doesn't come clean no matter what, chances are the pad is 
worn through, and you'll need to replace the control.  Mark Oppat, on this 
list, can help you if you need to go that far.

But chances are it's the speaker.

Keep us posted.



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com




"Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message 
news:1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...
>
> Dave.H wrote:
>> It works fine, I haven't disaligned those things, I only tried to rub
>> the black stuff off.  I was using furniture polish to clean inside and
>> out.  I guess thats no good.   Sounds nice but the volume crackles a
>> bit, and the holes in the speaker cone don't worry me.  If it ain't
>> broke why fix it, as the speaker sounds excellent (although I wonder if
>> the crackling is really the speaker) I think I have some old car
>> speakers buried in the shed, I'll try to find them to find out. Not
>> sure if I kept them when I cleaned my shed out. The cabinet came up
>> good with just Mr. Sheen furniture polish with almond oil.
>
> Dave, the crackling isn't the speaker, it's the volume switch.
>
> If it's a regular pot, spraying may/may not help it but it must get
> into the switch (it WILL evaporate over a day or two. DO NOT DO THIS
> UNLESS POWER IS REMOVED (UNPLUG IT)! Work the switch all the way back
> and forth numerous times to lube and clean the pot well and do not
> operate it for most of a day. Work it from time to time to help it
> self-clean. If you have the rotary point-contact type ALA a pocket set
> that has a volume wheel, it could be harder and I don't think
> advisable.
>
> Determine which control crackles (especially if it has tone or balance
> controls) and repeat for all noisy controls.
>
> PLEASE NOTE: Cleaning may not be a cure and the noises may return after
> the controls start to dry out and/or the controls are once again a
> mess. Eventually you may find yourself replacing the pots anyway.
>
> Whomever passes for Dick Smith there will know what kind of sprays are
> best for the job and safer to use on your plastics.
>
> If you aren't having the sound break up all the time or for the
> briefest time while adjusting the knob, you may always just take it for
> granted and let it be until it becomes like Alice Cooper's python to
> you and squeezes the fun out of listening.
>
> Some of that fabulous Australian pop music awaits you, so go get it!
> 




Article: 339632 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard)
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 10:32:19 -0700
Message-ID: <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>

>From jak:

>To complete the illusion, you might add 
>some kind of circuit to make it flicker as 
>well.

Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll 'flicker'
at 60 cps, 'on' for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle.
Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns 'on' at the peak of every half cycle
(ie, it flickers 120 times a second).  
                               oc 



Article: 339633 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
Date: 14 Aug 2006 10:45:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1155577559.829511.38930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <RREDg.71133$_J1.722650@twister2.libero.it>

So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make
it an
OLD FART RADIO?

Oh yessssss, thank you GB, you've done it again.

Daniele wrote:
> And after a couple of years the 'SHITOLA'
> appeared on eBay... that's the time for the 'FART',
> actually the brand name was F.A.R.T., from Italy.
> I'm not related with this item, even if i know him
> very well, nice person.
> See
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300015398462
> 
> 
> -- 
>  Daniele
>  http://www.tuberadio.it



Article: 339634 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <x1%Cg.3492$uW1.66@dukeread06> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> <jvcsd29gaktmqdtf1fqjfppri0il3beume@4ax.com> <v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <ebq88r$8ie$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
Message-ID: <2T2Eg.16375$Nx4.10445@bignews8.bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:01:51 -0500

GregS wrote:
> In article <v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net>, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>> Mike wrote:
>>> On Sat, 12 Aug 2006 13:49:46 -0400, "Hagstar"
>>> <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> "John Goller, k9uwa" <k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF> wrote in message 
>>>> news:3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72...
>>>>
>>>>> good solder joints start with a good mechanical joint..
>>>>>
>>>> That's always nice, but in the early '30s Atwater Kent engineers provided no
>>>> eyelet and you simply lay the wire on the pad in a puddle of solder.
>>>>
>>>> john H. 
>>>>
>>> Sounds like early Surface Mount Technology (heh, heh)
>>>
>>> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when
>>> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder. 
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>> Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint.  The 
>> lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to 
>> speak of.
> 
> There is always mechanical contact when doing PCB's. It may be poor but
> surface mount components touch down before soldering. I think the worse case is flat packs and 
> large thin leaded processors chips, where the leads are very thin and may be the 
> case where there is not good contact first.
> 
That's another example.  In the case of leaded components, melt the 
solder and there's little if any actual mechanical connection.  I've 
seen devices (Crown power amp) heat up to the point of melting solder. 
I wonder if the old saw about a secure mechanical joint was just 
overkill, or if it was simply a backup for a really secure *solder* 
connection.  I suppose it makes a difference that the components are 
usually suspended in space for P to P wiring....


> greg
> 



Article: 339635 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:04:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
From: John Stone <jmsent2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C1062548.53633%jmsent2@comcast.net>
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <x1%Cg.3492$uW1.66@dukeread06> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> <jvcsd29gaktmqdtf1fqjfppri0il3beume@4ax.com> <v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net>




On 8/14/06 11:00 AM, in article v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net,
"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Mike wrote:
>> 
>> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when
>> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder.
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
> Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint.  The
> lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to
> speak of.
> 
Which is exactly why I say all printed circuit boards should be banned and
the world should go back to hand wiring. An additional benefit would be that
since very few Chinese workers know how to do hand wiring, we could return
radio manufacturing (with tubes, of course) back to the US where it belongs.



Article: 339636 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS)
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:15:20 GMT
Message-ID: <ebqejr$9tg$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net>

In article <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net>, oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard) wrote:
>From jak:
>
>>To complete the illusion, you might add 
>>some kind of circuit to make it flicker as 
>>well.
>
>Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll 'flicker'
>at 60 cps, 'on' for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle.
>Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns 'on' at the peak of every half cycle
>(ie, it flickers 120 times a second).  
>                               oc 

I don't think thats the kind of flicker we need. I thinks it  s the flicker which changes position.
You could change position by using more than one LED.

greg


Article: 339637 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS)
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:19:22 GMT
Message-ID: <ebqerd$9tg$3@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <x1%Cg.3492$uW1.66@dukeread06> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> <jvcsd29gaktmqdtf1fqjfppri0il3beume@4ax.com> <v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <C1062548.53633%jmsent2@comcast.net>

In article <C1062548.53633%jmsent2@comcast.net>, John Stone <jmsent2@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>On 8/14/06 11:00 AM, in article v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net,
>"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>> Mike wrote:
>>> 
>>> It's important to get wire to wire or wire to lug contact when
>>> soldering. You don't want the lead just floating in the solder.
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>> Yet that is almost exactly the technique with any PCB solder joint.  The
>> lead is poke through a hole and soldered...no mechanical connection to
>> speak of.
>> 
>Which is exactly why I say all printed circuit boards should be banned and
>the world should go back to hand wiring. An additional benefit would be that
>since very few Chinese workers know how to do hand wiring, we could return
>radio manufacturing (with tubes, of course) back to the US where it belongs.
>

On a normal board the machine does about everything including inserting components.
There may be some things that need manual insertion.

greg


Article: 339638 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <RREDg.71133$_J1.722650@twister2.libero.it> <1155577559.829511.38930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
Message-ID: <be4Eg.72075$_J1.726251@twister2.libero.it>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 19:33:27 GMT


"RadioGary"

> So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make
> it an
> OLD FART RADIO?

...bad caps? ;-)

-- 
 Daniele     ^___^
 http://www.tuberadio.it




Article: 339639 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Longwire antenna for Zenith 8G005 TO?
Date: 14 Aug 2006 12:45:36 -0700
Message-ID: <1155584736.685919.232800@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebp6r30ppa@news1.newsguy.com><ebpd3r$8dn$1@news2.kornet.net>


Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> Not on this set, and not on another 8G005 that I have in the restoration
> queue either.

Yes, not on the 8G (nor the 7G as I remember).

Now, others have noted "tunable" 60hz sources. But the bottom line is
that a longwire antenna will saturate the front-end on that unit as
well as pick up every bit of stray rF, stuff that could be rF and any
other signal that could come out as  hum, buzz and otherwise noise.

What you can do:

Run that same longwire to a tunable cap, something on the order of the
smaller section of a two-section AA5-type cap... that is something from
your scrap-box, from that to the same lug as the "waverod" (but
disconnect the waverod). Diddle with the tuning on that cap to avoid
most of the noise and you should do fine. You may have to experiment
with that tunable cap, but something a few pf or so should do. Each
section of the band will need a  slightly different tuning.

Antenna -----> l )/------> radio

Of course, be sure to have a knife-switch-to-ground arrangement for the
longwire if it is in any way exposed to lightening. And have it in the
grounded position when you leave the house. A lightening arrestor is
nice and will protect the real-estate, but is unlikely to protect the
radio in the case of a strike. Belt, suspenders & Velcro is appropriate
in these applications. 

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339640 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "toxcrusadr" <cadyc@mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Date: 14 Aug 2006 13:26:28 -0700
Message-ID: <1155587188.468704.41070@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04><H9GDg.1167$Rh7.456@newsfe11.lga>


Sal Brisindi wrote:
> If I think I will create more of a problem trying to remove the
> component when there are to many wires going to the lug I just snip the
> capacitor off leaving a pigtail a and solder it to the pigtail. Not the
> greatest way but it works for me.
>
> What I have also done is get a pin, or a small allen key, wrap 22/24
> guage wire around it like making a spring but with the coils tightly
> wrapped. Then I slid the wire of the new component and the pigtail I
> left and solder that. It ain't gonna get loose! If anyone is not sure
> what I mean I can take a few photos and post it on the binaries.
>
> Sal Brisindi

I do this with the new capacitor lead itself, make a "pigtail".  Bill
Turner made a great little tool for this, a wooden dowel with a stiff
piece of steel wire sticking out one end.  Perfect for putting a
pigtail on a component lead before installing it, or on a wire or
whatever.  Beats the heck out of completely removing the lead from the
terminal - just snip out the old component and pigtail a new one to the
two wires.

Tox



Article: 339641 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
Date: 14 Aug 2006 13:28:35 -0700
Message-ID: <1155587315.341804.273150@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <RREDg.71133$_J1.722650@twister2.libero.it>

Bad chili.

Daniele wrote:
> "RadioGary"
>
> > So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make
> > it an
> > OLD FART RADIO?
>
> ...bad caps? ;-)
> 
> -- 
>  Daniele     ^___^
>  http://www.tuberadio.it



Article: 339642 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Please help *PLEASE PUT ME ON YOUR EMAIL LIST*
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:18:40 -0700
Message-ID: <4jm1e2pp4vncaf84ihkiu498h0lh32q11q@4ax.com>
References: <451515581406@news-server.austin.rr.com>

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:32:53 GMT, ray@austin.com (ray...i need to pay
my bill and it works) wrote:

<snip>

Forward entire message including header to:

abuse@rr.com

...with [SPAM] in the subject line.  Due to RoadRunner's poor
reputation on blacklists, they're now booting Usenet spammers with
great zeal.


Article: 339643 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net>
Subject: Re: (De)soldering techniques
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 13:16:24 -0700
Message-ID: <6gm1e29qq0ulk7qo2tcctnch63srjffjt1@4ax.com>
References: <1155300902.787861.183610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <7063-44DC8A61-25@storefull-3174.bay.webtv.net> <1155305783.869268.287580@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <hVuDg.1716$9v1.250@trnddc07> <44DF83C4.49FF1234@earthlink.net>

On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 19:56:01 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

>James Sweet wrote:
>> 
>> It works a lot better on some things than others but the trick is to dip
>> it in liquid flux before using. The flux that comes on it dries out over
>> time and it doesn't work very well.
>
>
>   It doesn't "Dry out". It is lost due to handling.  It breaks away as
>a fine dust.  the more you handle it, the quicker there isn't enough
>flux left to do the job.
>
>
>
> Adding some fresh solder to the
>> joint before desoldering, while counterintuitive, works well.
>
>
>   Its NOT counterintuitive.  The fresh solder lifts of the oxidized
>surface of the old solder which makes it easier to wick solder off the
>joint. <snip>

Terrell's right on both counts.


Article: 339644 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 14 Aug 2006 13:57:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1155589060.280485.132140@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

It crackles only when I turn the volume control, but I'm looking at a
valve radio in the UK.  Thinking of bidding on it. It ships to
worldwide. So I'll only use my Calstan radio occasionally, so I
probably leave it as it is.  Thanks for all your help.  This will be
the place I will go to help if I do get this new radio.

Theres a fantastic Philetta Up For auction by the way
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Vintage-Philips-Philetta-Plastic-Radio-127-or-220-V_W0QQitemZ170018848521QQihZ007QQcategoryZ38035QQssPageNameZWD2VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I was gonna bid on it,  but I thought someone whos knows a lot more
about old radios can enjoy it more.  I don't want something like that
just to learn on!



Article: 339645 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: robert casey <wa2ise@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155442489.853218.311050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <1155453725.474288.280800@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1155457765.211438.125640@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>   <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <JM1Eg.1158$Ji1.513@trnddc05> <1155589060.280485.132140@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <iF5Eg.8835$0e5.3588@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:10:38 GMT

Dave.H wrote:
> It crackles only when I turn the volume control

That's a dirty volume control.  Not the speaker.

DId you get the radio able to receive more than two stations again?  You 
mentioned that you had an accident that disconnected a white? wire, and 
after that you could only get two stations.  Did that wire go to the 
ferrite rod antenna?  I don't have access to my set right now, it's 
sitting in storage about 3 megameters from here.


Article: 339646 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Rick Fears <rfears@nospambtinternet.com>
Subject: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT)
Date: 14 Aug 2006 21:01:44 GMT
Message-ID: <Xns981FE01AE8E05rfwplighting@129.250.170.90>

This may be the wrong group, if so please forgive (I read the FAQ posted 
recently, and the associated flames, so appreciate some of the local 
sensitivities).

I have recently come across the wooden part of a Columbia Viva-tonal 
grafonola. This has a lifetable top in which there is what was obviously 
the base for a turntable fo some kind. Below there are two LP sized 
cupboards with between them a sort of louvered arrangement (about 6 
vertical slats) which I assume has something to do with letting the sound 
out?

I'm interested to find out what this piece was, whether it can be 
restored (e.g. by finding the appropriate gramophone mechanism), etc.

Any help (including a pointer to another more appropriate newsgroup if 
necessary) most gratefully received

Regards

Rick.



From adouglasatgis.net Thu Aug 17 01:52:39 EDT 2006
Article: 339647 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Alan Douglas <adouglasatgis.net>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:01:13 -0400
Organization: NewsGuy - Unlimited Usenet $19.95
Lines: 17
Message-ID: <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
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Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339647

Hi

>This spool seems rather large.

   I've never rewound a G-2, but someone posted on the net a while
back that a G-3 took 3 lbs of wire, and a 130-A speaker took 4 lbs.
You'll have to buy a 10 lb spool.  $$$

   You'll need to find the gauge. Take a piece of the old wire, heat
it in a match flame to red, to burn off the enamel, and mike it to a
couple of ten-thousandths to get the diameter.  There's no guarantee
that it will be a standard gauge however, and I couldn't tell you
offhand if you want to go half a size larger or smaller. You might
have to measure the enamel thickness to decide that, and compare with
the thickness of whatever modern wire you choose.

Alan


Article: 339648 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:24:56 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ebqpn8$9tl$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <2BZCg.73406$Qu4.13354@trnddc04> <1155297031.047860.323640@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <x1%Cg.3492$uW1.66@dukeread06> <3M1Dg.129854$1i1.30796@attbi_s72> <12ds55rlnld2g49@corp.supernews.com> <jvcsd29gaktmqdtf1fqjfppri0il3beume@4ax.com> <v51Eg.15621$vj1.5230@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <ebq88r$8ie$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <2T2Eg.16375$Nx4.10445@bignews8.bellsouth.net>

In <2T2Eg.16375$Nx4.10445@bignews8.bellsouth.net> jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:

>That's another example.  In the case of leaded components, melt the 
>solder and there's little if any actual mechanical connection.  I've 
>seen devices (Crown power amp) heat up to the point of melting solder. 
>I wonder if the old saw about a secure mechanical joint was just 
>overkill, or if it was simply a backup for a really secure *solder* 
>connection.  I suppose it makes a difference that the components are 
>usually suspended in space for P to P wiring....

   While I tend to side with the "secure mechanical connection" crowd
in this discussion, I like to wrap leads for an entirely different
reason -- it keeps the bloody thing in place when soldering!  If both
ends of a component are free, or you're soldering something with a
spring force, how many times have you had the damn thing slip off
just as you got the joint nice and hot and ready to accept solder?
If you make a good mechanical wrap you avoid needing a third hand or
some type of clamp.

   For the same reason I'll bend PCB component leads at a sharp angle
right where they exit the thru hole before turing the board upside
down to solder.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339649 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44E0ED63.F04BB0DB@earthlink.net>
From: "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Soldering techniques
References: <44DF8520.49E0E86C@earthlink.net> <10418-44E07FA7-166@storefull-3231.bay.webtv.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:39:10 GMT

"Ken G." wrote:
> 
> so that thermal cycling doesn't separate the tin plating from the steel
> component leads.
> 
> That might happen once in 50 years .


   Maybe for you, but I've seen thousands in the last 40 years.


-- 
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida


Article: 339650 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "George Conklin" <georgeconklin1@earthlink.net>
References: <Xns981FE01AE8E05rfwplighting@129.250.170.90>
Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT)
Message-ID: <La6Eg.3806$Sn3.626@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:46:19 GMT


"Rick Fears" <rfears@nospambtinternet.com> wrote in message
news:Xns981FE01AE8E05rfwplighting@129.250.170.90...
> This may be the wrong group, if so please forgive (I read the FAQ posted
> recently, and the associated flames, so appreciate some of the local
> sensitivities).
>
> I have recently come across the wooden part of a Columbia Viva-tonal
> grafonola. This has a lifetable top in which there is what was obviously
> the base for a turntable fo some kind. Below there are two LP sized
> cupboards with between them a sort of louvered arrangement (about 6
> vertical slats) which I assume has something to do with letting the sound
> out?
>
> I'm interested to find out what this piece was, whether it can be
> restored (e.g. by finding the appropriate gramophone mechanism), etc.
>
> Any help (including a pointer to another more appropriate newsgroup if
> necessary) most gratefully received
>
> Regards
>
> Rick.
>

   There are books on Columbia phonographs complete with pictures.  If the
works are missing, it probably has no particular value in today's market.
The book you need for pictures is by Robert Baumbach entitled "Columbia
Phonograph Compasion, Volume II: The Columbia Disc Graphophone and the
Grafonola.  1996.  Stationary X-Press, PO Box 207, Woodland Hills, CA 91364.
Many of the Grafonolas had pretty good record storage, so from your
description it would be hard to say which model you might have the case for.

Hope this helps.

George Conklin




Article: 339651 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 14 Aug 2006 15:08:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1155593320.358871.166770@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

The wire went to a point below the ferrite bar, but before I
disconnected the wire it only received three which is what it receives
now.  On another radio-related topic, what year was the PYE R37
manufactured.  I have the chance to get one of these from the UK.  I
don't really care how it performs, I just want to learn more about
vintage electronics and hopefully try to restore this radio if I do get
it.  Looks to be late '50's to me.



Article: 339652 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
Subject: ID needed
Message-ID: <Nv6Eg.71830$zy5.1316518@twister1.libero.it>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 22:08:45 GMT

A cathedral and a tombstone coming from the same lot
of the wire spools.
The cathedral is branded AIRKING, no model nr, made in Spain,
the tombstone is branded BALJ or something like BALS tags on front
point to Portugal.
I'm wondering if they could be US sets made under license..
it would be great to find schematics.
http://www.junkradios.com/public/id.htm

-- 
 Daniele
 http://www.tuberadio.it
 




Article: 339653 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 14 Aug 2006 15:10:38 -0700
Message-ID: <1155593438.927041.29440@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

The wire was white with a green wire connected to that



Article: 339654 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 14 Aug 2006 15:11:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1155593500.138616.64640@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

The white wire still has about 4 inches left.  Not sure what I did with
the rest.



Article: 339655 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Syl" <personne@perdu.com>
References: <Nv6Eg.71830$zy5.1316518@twister1.libero.it>
Subject: Re: ID needed
Message-ID: <JH6Eg.30609$PV5.213434@wagner.videotron.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 18:21:36 -0400

"Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it> wrote in message 
news:Nv6Eg.71830$zy5.1316518@twister1.libero.it...
>A cathedral and a tombstone coming from the same lot
> of the wire spools.
> The cathedral is branded AIRKING, no model nr, made in Spain,
> the tombstone is branded BALJ or something like BALS tags on front
> point to Portugal.
> I'm wondering if they could be US sets made under license..
> it would be great to find schematics.
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/id.htm
>
> -- 
> Daniele
> http://www.tuberadio.it


The AirKing doesn't look right. The dial looks strange. Airplane dial
with a cathedral looks pretty out of place.

Syl 




Article: 339656 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Please help *PLEASE PUT ME ON YOUR EMAIL LIST* HAHA
Date: 14 Aug 2006 16:00:55 -0700
Message-ID: <1155596455.289908.106850@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <451515581406@news-server.austin.rr.com>

Gee, I wonder why? Sounds kinda harsh, huh?



Article: 339657 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Applications where tubes are still king??
Date: 14 Aug 2006 16:47:05 -0700
Message-ID: <1155599225.216156.228590@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154980972.462384.103210@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>


jakdedert wrote:
> James Sweet wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>    The operating costs for the tube version more than offsets the
> >> difference in purchase price, and the smaller number of tube
> >> transmitters has narrowed the gap considerably.  You use less
> >> electricity for a solid state transmitter, that means less is used for
> >> air conditioning.  The transmitter is smaller, and requires less
> >> maintenance over its life.  That maintenance can be done by less skilled
> >> staff, and it is rare that the transmitter would go down completely,
> >> reducing the number of make goods on advertising.  You can continue to
> >> run the transmitter with a single bad output module while it is repair
> >> locally, or at the factory.  If you need a backup generator and switch
> >> gear it will be cheaper, as well.  Thales and Harris are the only two
> >> manufacturers I'm still familiar with.  Thales bought Comark, which made
> >> the last big transmitter I worked on. All solid state, except the
> >> Klystrons, and it was delivered a week before the Klystrodes hit the
> >> market.  It uses three 65 KW Klystrons, two Visual, and one Aural.  It
> >> cost over $45,000 to rebuild one of the Klystrons in 1990.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > That may well be true, but it doesn't change the fact that many people
> > still shop strictly by price. Look at how many people still use 25 cent
> > incandescent lightbulbs despite the fact that a $3 compact fluorescent
> > will more than pay for itself in electricity savings, or who will buy a
> > $99 Wal-Mart special TV instead of paying $150 to get their older high
> > end Sony repaired.
> >
> Unfortunately, the $99 Walmart will probably have desirable features
> unavailable on the ten year old Sony.  Even though ten years life is a
> pipe dream for the WM special, in a decade, the HD will likely have
> finally taken off, so even the WM set will be obsolete if it still works
> at all.
>
> The light bulb example doesn't work either, as incandescents are better
> at some things than CFL's.  The color temp is more agreeable to many.
> They fire up to full brightness immediately.  They can be used outdoors.
>   They can be dimmed reliably...and speaking of reliability, that's a
> factor as well.  There is nothing quite so disheartening than to spend
> several times extra for a supposedly 'long life' product, only to find
> it didn't last any longer than the standard product it was supposed to
> replace.
>
> I think the LED is a much better technology, with more potential for
> eventually replacing the heated wire as a source of light.
>
> jak

I got news to break here concerning your televisions...

I've got FIVE Trinitrons, three built 1980 or before.

Three 19" and two 12"

One 19" (1981?) had a fall but seems like the tuner is about the only
broken part.
My KV-1923 has a beautiful CRT but the aspect (size) shrinks and blooms
a little--it's going in for work too.
My KV-1212 is a old knob set that says it conforms to DHEW standards
and 42CFR...shrink and bloom is a bit worse. It has two 1/8" mono
headphone jacks.

That leaves a KV-1957R in champagne (cam type tuning presets and remote
controllable)

KV-1214 Econoquick chassis 14 wheel-set channels, grille torn up but
feed it a strong signal and the tuning and picture are great...no
remote

I think it would be cheaper to fix the five Sonys, and I got them for
less than $60.00! All but the dropped one are displaying color fidelity
and such that rival a new set, and I believe all of them will be
restored to full operation soon.

I've seen other 19" Trinitrons of pre-1984 vintage for 20-30 dollars
that run as good or better around here. I wouldn't go to Wal-Mart
except to buy pop and nachos.



Article: 339658 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID
Date: 14 Aug 2006 17:01:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

I have a bid on the Sencore SG-165 offered by "travman100" that was
previously part of a lot that became a topic of debate. Those of you
who wanted parts but were hesitant to split a lot may now find all or
most of the parts listed singly.

If you have problems with PayPal, ask nicely, as I believe he is
willing to help.

I will probably NOT bid on the Leader scope and instead I will look for
a more capable model next month.

Steven/bidding as "asynchrousman"



Article: 339659 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: norml <normlehf@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT)
Message-ID: <hh42e2l5u8adb1d8ggn8bsd981g5k7f500@4ax.com>
References: <Xns981FE01AE8E05rfwplighting@129.250.170.90>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 00:20:44 GMT

"Viva-Tonal" was Columbia's answer to Victor's "Orthophonic" Victrolas.

I have a huge, heavy, console version. It is a crude ripoff off the Victor
"Credenza."

The point of both machines was Western Electric's matched-impedance theory
applied to mechanical reproducers for the purpose of reproducing the new
electrical records economically. (Electronic phonos were prohibitively
expensive for the first several years.)

Norm Lehfeldt

Rick Fears <rfears@nospambtinternet.com> wrotf:

>This may be the wrong group, if so please forgive (I read the FAQ posted 
>recently, and the associated flames, so appreciate some of the local 
>sensitivities).
>
>I have recently come across the wooden part of a Columbia Viva-tonal 
>grafonola. This has a lifetable top in which there is what was obviously 
>the base for a turntable fo some kind. Below there are two LP sized 
>cupboards with between them a sort of louvered arrangement (about 6 
>vertical slats) which I assume has something to do with letting the sound 
>out?
>
>I'm interested to find out what this piece was, whether it can be 
>restored (e.g. by finding the appropriate gramophone mechanism), etc.
>
>Any help (including a pointer to another more appropriate newsgroup if 
>necessary) most gratefully received
>
>Regards
>
>Rick.


Article: 339660 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Zenith Transistor Radio History
From: "Jim Barnard" <jbarnard@ftc-i.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 20:23:29 -0400
Message-ID: <ebr45v$9p1$1@news04.infoave.net>

For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the 
engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has 
contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his 
comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection.


-- 
Jim Barnard
www.transistor-repairs.com
Specializing in Zenith Transistor
Radio Repair/Restoration 




Article: 339661 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1154556273.855282.81140@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <C0aAg.73$Kj.24@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <1154596293.127423.234110@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1154602427.506876.102850@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <easm7h$4ut$1@news2.kornet.net>   <1154638284.566159.11910@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>   <1154661884.091321.122590@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1154804668.336890.260530@n13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <KB9Bg.1042$UN4.842@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <1154827349.198320.44090@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1154993429.114318.155650@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID
Message-ID: <RE8Eg.10196$eL2.9491@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 00:34:57 GMT


"Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message 
news:1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> I have a bid on the Sencore SG-165 offered by "travman100" that was
> previously part of a lot that became a topic of debate. Those of you
> who wanted parts but were hesitant to split a lot may now find all or
> most of the parts listed singly.
>
> If you have problems with PayPal, ask nicely, as I believe he is
> willing to help.
>
> I will probably NOT bid on the Leader scope and instead I will look for
> a more capable model next month.
>
> Steven/bidding as "asynchrousman"
>

He'll need to learn a little more about shipping.  He is charging the same flat $30 
shipping for the 5-lb. all the way up to 30-lb. items.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtravman100QQhtZ-1

jim menning 




Article: 339662 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 20:39:57 -0400
From: Aaron Hunter <ahunter01@NOSPAMcomcast.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>

Paul

Good looking radio!

According to my information, "Plant A" was for Clinton.  A "C" 
preceeding the serial number was for Corona Radio & Telev. Corp of 
Chicago, Ill.  Is there a "25" or some letter preceeding the serial number?

Mark suggested "Imperial".  There are pictures of Imperials in Stein's 
"Pre-War Consoles" that are close but not exact to your set.  The grill 
and dial resemble yours.  None pictured had 11 tubes.

Imperial was manufactured by Belmont Radio Corp of Chicago, Ill.  Names 
used by Belmont were "Belmont", "Classique", "Crusader", "Goodyear 
Wings", "Freshman", "Imperial", "Starck Classique", "Truetone", and "Wings".

I checked the Belmont listings in Mallory and there were no tube 
line-ups like yours.

Aaron

Paul Dietenberger wrote:
> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though.
> 
> This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by 
> Clinton. Looks like this:
> http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg
> 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder failed 
> to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be there under 
> some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the inside of the 
> cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) and doesn't 
> photograph well.
> 
> Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80.
> 
> Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is on 
> it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent maker-style 
> nail-on tags.
> 
> Thanks
> paul 
> 
> 
> 



Article: 339663 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith Transistor Radio History
Date: 14 Aug 2006 17:54:22 -0700
Message-ID: <1155603262.676599.249770@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebr45v$9p1$1@news04.infoave.net>


Jim Barnard wrote:
> For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the
> engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has
> contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his
> comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection.
>
>
> --
> Jim Barnard
> www.transistor-repairs.com
> Specializing in Zenith Transistor
> Radio Repair/Restoration

Polish my memory banks if you might...

I have a Royal 880 and it uses 6 C cells. If the set has enough charge
to run AM, does it necessarily mean the FM will work or will it go
first? I ask because we had a massive blackout the other day after a
huge storm (up to 80 mph) just toward sunset, and numerous lines and
trees and poles went down leaving the corridor from Halfway, Oregon to
southeastern Idaho blacked out and later into Boise. The 880 with 6-8
month old but usable cells was all I had while trying to fumble for AA
cells (and only finding those lovely AAAs), I had no D cells for the
Craftsmen and my pocket AM set seems to have some trouble receiving
very well from Boise if KSRV and it's 107 dBu strength next door are
OFF THE AIR TOO.

I guess to make things worse for a short while, after KBOI gave the EAS
storm warning for their area, nobody was there with brains to gather
the news that over half their audience was blacked out and maybe
looking for news about it, and Clear Channel was out to lunch too as
they went back to Hannity and other yackfests. I was using a rotary
telephone and looking for the touchtone desk phone to offer it to the
neighbor who is disabled also and only has cordless when the power came
back finally, but I had wondered if I would even be able to use the
grocery store that night to get batteries. I got the AAs because my
other sets were economical enough not to spend a billion on alkalines
and $1 Panasonics or Evereadies at the dollar store were a much better
deal.

I'm already changing the bands and stations with needlenose pliers
because the concentric knobs are broke/bandswitch gone, but I like the
set and want to use it more often.



Article: 339664 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 17:59:07 -0700
Message-ID: <EaCdnfZeoPnEgXzZnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@comcast.com>

> Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll "flicker"
> at 60 cps, "on" for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle.
> Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns "on" at the peak of every half
> cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second).

Then use a full-wave rectifier to drive the LEDs.

Actually, a neon bulb comes on when theres about 60V to 70V across it. The
series resistor keeps it from being damaged. <heh-heh>




Article: 339665 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID
Date: 14 Aug 2006 18:05:27 -0700
Message-ID: <1155603927.281524.94500@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>


jim menning wrote:
> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message
> news:1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > I have a bid on the Sencore SG-165 offered by "travman100" that was
> > previously part of a lot that became a topic of debate. Those of you
> > who wanted parts but were hesitant to split a lot may now find all or
> > most of the parts listed singly.
> >
> > If you have problems with PayPal, ask nicely, as I believe he is
> > willing to help.
> >
> > I will probably NOT bid on the Leader scope and instead I will look for
> > a more capable model next month.
> >
> > Steven/bidding as "asynchrousman"
> >
>
> He'll need to learn a little more about shipping.  He is charging the same flat $30
> shipping for the 5-lb. all the way up to 30-lb. items.

I don't care. If I win he's being flexible enough to help me get it.
He's also rewrote this puppy every which way but loose and closed
auctions trying to accomodate you all. Those of you that want should
get and no more nitpicking, that's pushing the envelope for a guy that
ate two listings and may not even recover his fees.

Considering the apparent quality of the items AND that the
aforementioned Sencore just went for over 92 dollars plus 27 shipping
in another auction only a few days ago, you asked for it, you got it,
no TOYOTA. You said he was crazy, he listened, now he's not per your
definitions.

Please don't jinx my efforts, and I'll thank you kindly.


> http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtravman100QQhtZ-1
> 
> jim menning



Article: 339666 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Robert Sherrod <rtsherrod@mchsi.com>
Subject: Hallicrafters S120...
Message-ID: <Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777@attbi_s72>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 01:12:19 GMT

Hello everyone,

I am completing work on a Hallicrafters S120 and have a few questions.

I am planning on installing a fuse and need to determine what current 
rating to install. I have measured the current draw of the receiver and 
it is 0.19 A and peaks at 0.21 A if turned off and back on when warmed 
up. Given that this S120 will be given to the granddaughter of the 
individual who is having it restored, the latter may become a common 
occurance. Please advise on the proper current rating given the 
information provided.

Also, can the fuse be installed after the power switch but before the 
rectifier? Given the layout under the chassis, placing the fuse after 
the switch is more convenient and will not require additional wiring. 
Please advise if this is incorrect and/or unsafe.

I have placed a portion of the schematic on the binaries in regards to 
the following. I have replaced capacitor C30 with a 0.01 mF AC rated 
capacitor based on information found in rar+p archives in Google groups. 
I am wondering if capacitor C29 also should be replaced with an AC rated 
capacitor and what purpose does this capacitor and the paralled resistor 
serve?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bobby
KC9IHK


Article: 339667 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: ken scharf <wa2mzeNOSPAMBOTS@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <EaCdnfZeoPnEgXzZnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@comcast.com>
Message-ID: <FW9Eg.14544$qd.266@bignews3.bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 22:02:22 -0400

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>> Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll "flicker"
>> at 60 cps, "on" for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle.
>> Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns "on" at the peak of every half
>> cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second).
> 
> Then use a full-wave rectifier to drive the LEDs.
> 
> Actually, a neon bulb comes on when theres about 60V to 70V across it. The
> series resistor keeps it from being damaged. <heh-heh>
> 
> 
Actually what's wrong with just using a neon bulb?
NE-2's are cheap and easy to find.  You can build a dc-ac inverter
to get the needed 90v from a 5-12v supply.


Article: 339668 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: pgonshor@aol.com
Subject: Philco 610
Date: 14 Aug 2006 19:49:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Working on a Philco 610.  5 tube circuit (predessor of the AA5 I
guess).  3 bands.  Great performance.  Nothing beats good coils.
Trouble is, coils didn't sell radios, tube count did.  I've had sets
like this that performed better than 9 tube radios.  Comments?
Dave



Article: 339669 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 22:57:23 -0400
Message-ID: <12e2e0prnu67af1@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <JTZDg.896292$084.414601@attbi_s22>


"John Goller, k9uwa" <k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF> wrote in message 
news:JTZDg.896292$084.414601@attbi_s22...

>>
> If you have a local shop that repairs motors... they will have
> the wire you need..


I buy magnet wire cheaply on eBay too sometimes, or at hamfests.

John H. 




Article: 339670 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120...
Date: 14 Aug 2006 20:08:27 -0700
Message-ID: <1155611307.023919.326830@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777@attbi_s72>

Bobby, it would be fine to put the fuse after the power switch as long
as the wire between the line cord and the switch [probably a line cord
wire] is adequately insulated.
If it makes you more comfortable, then replace those two caps with AC
rated parts, but make sure their leads are well spaced from any metal
parts. C29 is the RF bypass betweeen the 'common' and the case [with
R18 as the static bleed] and R30 is the RF bypass across the input
line. Being close to the rectifier diode may also help to reduce
rectifier noise, but it could also make it worse. A 1000pF 1kV ceramic
in series with about 33 ohms connected across a silicon diode will help
suppress rectifier noise if it is a problem.
For your fuse, you have 150mA for the filaments, IIRC, and about
50-70mA B+. The worst surge will be cold turn on since the filaments
will draw a fair slug, but the glo-bar helps a lot there. You will get
a charging pulse through the rectifier in both cases, but also B+ on a
hot turn on. Since the B+ is via a half wave rectifier, your meter will
not measure that current accurately unless it is a true RMS type, and
the pluse nature of the charge current is somewhat difficult to
translate to fuse heating effect. I would tend to use a 1/4A slow blow
that will carry just over the normal current including the pulse
effect, yet offer some protection from failures of tubes and caps. The
slow blow will withstand the turn on surges, but, perhaps, not a
repetitious on/off/on/off cycling without having the oppotunity to
cool. To be sure you might want to go to 3/8A, but your component
protection will be much impared. Either will be excellent for fire
protection [the main purpose of a fuse].

Neil S.
Robert Sherrod wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am completing work on a Hallicrafters S120 and have a few questions.
>
> I am planning on installing a fuse and need to determine what current
> rating to install. I have measured the current draw of the receiver and
> it is 0.19 A and peaks at 0.21 A if turned off and back on when warmed
> up. Given that this S120 will be given to the granddaughter of the
> individual who is having it restored, the latter may become a common
> occurance. Please advise on the proper current rating given the
> information provided.
>
> Also, can the fuse be installed after the power switch but before the
> rectifier? Given the layout under the chassis, placing the fuse after
> the switch is more convenient and will not require additional wiring.
> Please advise if this is incorrect and/or unsafe.
>
> I have placed a portion of the schematic on the binaries in regards to
> the following. I have replaced capacitor C30 with a 0.01 mF AC rated
> capacitor based on information found in rar+p archives in Google groups.
> I am wondering if capacitor C29 also should be replaced with an AC rated
> capacitor and what purpose does this capacitor and the paralled resistor
> serve?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bobby
> KC9IHK



Article: 339671 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Syl" <personne@perdu.com>
Subject: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Message-ID: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 23:58:11 -0400

No model, brand or label anywhere.

Steel cabinet.

There is something handwritten on the speaker OPT, "watterson".
Hard to tell if it bears any relation to the radio. Simple octal AA5 using a
field coil speaker with the number 700 stamped on the back.
Reminds me of an Emerson speaker or a Philco.

http://www.oldradioz.com/temp/coin_radio.jpg

Any help IDing the model and/or actual manufacturer would be welcome.

Syl
P.S. I did search Watterson, but nothing about coin operated radios. 




Article: 339672 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 14 Aug 2006 21:40:31 -0700
Message-ID: <1155616831.353609.131240@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

No, I want an Australian radio, this has caught my eye,
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BAKELITE-KREISLER-VALVE-RADIO-WORKING-1940S_W0QQitemZ230016326750QQihZ013QQcategoryZ364QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>From 1947-49 I believe.  Thanks for your answer, Martin



Article: 339673 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Philco 610
Date: 14 Aug 2006 22:11:48 -0700
Message-ID: <1155618708.642450.175650@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

pgonshor@aol.com wrote:
> Working on a Philco 610.  5 tube circuit (predessor of the AA5 I
> guess).  3 bands.  Great performance.  Nothing beats good coils.
> Trouble is, coils didn't sell radios, tube count did.  I've had sets
> like this that performed better than 9 tube radios.  Comments?
> Dave

My 38-12 has 5 full-sized tubes and one band and my Hallicrafters S-118
has 5 and 5 bands as I recall...

While it's partly true a 9-tuber might be better than a fiver, remember
that tubes were always a major purchase and if you can get five to do
the work of nine, within limits and budget concerns, and it sounds good
to Jackie and Joe Polka, you've sold a radio! Oh sure, the hi-fi
hotrodders out there can afford more expensive beer--sets, I mean and
they've always been there in some number, but 5 is the right number it
seems. 5 of the right tubes could do it, at least before FM.

Since I've heard that number before as a suffix in the Philco system,
is the an actual 610 or an XX-610? I kinda thought it's a 1938 or 1941.
I should go look I guess.



Article: 339674 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 14 Aug 2006 22:15:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1155618924.707821.98240@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> No, I want an Australian radio, this has caught my eye,
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BAKELITE-KREISLER-VALVE-RADIO-WORKING-1940S_W0QQitemZ230016326750QQihZ013QQcategoryZ364QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >From 1947-49 I believe.  Thanks for your answer, Martin

I haven't looked yet, but it sounds like a nice set, being a Kreisler
(I'm not kidding either, they are kinda neat).



Article: 339675 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 14 Aug 2006 23:29:26 -0700
Message-ID: <1155623366.698998.44020@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

It's cool.  AM and shortwave from 50-16 meters.  I wanted a valve
shortwave receiver. I'm only a casual shortwave listener so it will do
me. For more info on this set go to
http://www.shlrc.mq.edu.au/~robinson/museum/kriesler.html
I'm definitely gonna get my father to bid on it (I'm only 16, too young
to actually have a credit card or bank account, but I will pay for the
radio, just get him to do the bidding).



Article: 339676 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com>
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 01:52:05 -0500
Message-ID: <44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>

"Aaron Hunter" <ahunter01@NOSPAMcomcast.net> wrote in message 
news:44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net...

Thanks much, I appreciate it.
The serial number is 313022 with no letter or number prefixes. It's 
otherwise just marked "Plant C Chicago" and a typewritten note stating that 
due to the set's extreme sensitivity that the user is not to use an antenna 
longer than 30 feet with it. :-)

I'm sure it's not a Belmont, I don't think they were plant C and the look of 
both the set and the schematic pasted inside are all wrong for Belmont. 
Here's a partial picture of the schematic in the cabinet. Does the 
look-and-feel and character styling ring a bell with anyone?

http://personalpages.tds.net/~pdieten/plantc.jpg

I'd like to avoid having to hand-redraw this thing to have something to work 
off of and keep in my files. I can't get a good picture inside the cabinet.

Cheers,
paul


> Paul
>
> Good looking radio!
>
> According to my information, "Plant A" was for Clinton.  A "C" preceeding 
> the serial number was for Corona Radio & Telev. Corp of Chicago, Ill.  Is 
> there a "25" or some letter preceeding the serial number?
>
> Mark suggested "Imperial".  There are pictures of Imperials in Stein's 
> "Pre-War Consoles" that are close but not exact to your set.  The grill 
> and dial resemble yours.  None pictured had 11 tubes.
>
> Imperial was manufactured by Belmont Radio Corp of Chicago, Ill.  Names 
> used by Belmont were "Belmont", "Classique", "Crusader", "Goodyear Wings", 
> "Freshman", "Imperial", "Starck Classique", "Truetone", and "Wings".
>
> I checked the Belmont listings in Mallory and there were no tube line-ups 
> like yours.
>
> Aaron
>
> Paul Dietenberger wrote:
>> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though.
>>
>> This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by 
>> Clinton. Looks like this:
>> http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg
>> 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder 
>> failed to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be 
>> there under some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the 
>> inside of the cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-) 
>> and doesn't photograph well.
>>
>> Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80.
>>
>> Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is 
>> on it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent 
>> maker-style nail-on tags.
>>
>> Thanks
>> paul
> 



-- 
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



Article: 339677 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 03:54:24 -0400
From: Tom Adkins <newton5@remove.comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Philco 610
References: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155618708.642450.175650@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <6qKdnX6YH7c04XzZnZ2dnUVZ_tSdnZ2d@comcast.com>

Steven wrote:

> 
>>Working on a Philco 610.  5 tube circuit (predessor of the AA5 I
>>guess).  3 bands.  Great performance.  Nothing beats good coils.
>>Trouble is, coils didn't sell radios, tube count did.  I've had sets
>>like this that performed better than 9 tube radios.  Comments?
>>Dave

> 
> Since I've heard that number before as a suffix in the Philco system,
> is the an actual 610 or an XX-610? I kinda thought it's a 1938 or 1941.
> I should go look I guess.
> 

Philco started the xx-yyy model format in 1937. The 610 was a '35 or '36 set(oval 
escutcheon). There was also a 37-610 that was essentially the same chassis (Round 
escutcheon). The 37-610 also had photo finish on the tombstone cabinet, the 610 did not.


Article: 339678 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "gerryu21220@gmail.com" <gerryu21220@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT)
Date: 15 Aug 2006 03:55:58 -0700
Message-ID: <1155639358.064138.235100@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <Xns981FE01AE8E05rfwplighting@129.250.170.90>


Rick Fears wrote:

> I have recently come across the wooden part of a Columbia Viva-tonal
> grafonola. This has a lifetable top in which there is what was obviously
> the base for a turntable fo some kind. Below there are two LP sized
> cupboards with between them a sort of louvered arrangement (about 6
> vertical slats) which I assume has something to do with letting the sound
> out?

I have no idea what you mean by a "lifetable top".  Your description
sounds more like it's just a record cabinet base to go with a tabletop
machine...  Is there a hinged lid, underneath which is a panel with
various holes in it?  If so, then yes - the louvered section is the
internal horn.

Gerry



Article: 339679 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: My First Valve (tube) Radio
Date: 15 Aug 2006 04:55:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1155642941.462432.105040@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>

Still not sure what radio I want!  I am definitely gonna get a valve
(tube) radio.  So many good ones out there you want them all!  This
on'es by far the nicest though.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VINTAGE-OPERATIC-WOODEN-CASE-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ300015608962QQihZ020QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

What year would this be from?  I'm guessing late '30's early '40's.
Definitely pre-war.  Does it have shortwave?



Article: 339680 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 08:32:30 -0400
Message-ID: <12e3fngderref66@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155431454.082962.94090@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155445417.100113.322500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155448615.924864.86900@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <1155453725.474288.280800@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155453918.679954.96860@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1155457765.211438.125640@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155459924.899348.199570@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>   <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155471608.033953.320580@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1155474088.221218.117600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <JM1Eg.1158$Ji1.513@trnddc05> <1155589060.280485.132140@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <iF5Eg.8835$0e5.3588@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net>



 Blackened Transistors- serves 8

2 cups germanium transistors (NOT metal cased!)

1/2 cup chopped scallions

1/4 cup pine nuts

2 tsp. olive oil

2 cups coarsely chopped PVC spaghetti (use different colors to add contrast)





Heat the oil until smoking in a cast iron skillet, add transistors and cook 
until well carbonized at medium heat. Add the balance of the ingredients 
except the spaghetti and reduce heat to medium, stir for 7-9 min. until 
transistor casings smell  "cooked". Serve over PVC spaghetti with a side of 
"Selenium Tortillas".




Article: 339681 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "the MAGNATE" <analog@epix.net>
Subject: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 05:40:58 -0700
Message-ID: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

http://i7.tinypic.com/24o4tbl.jpg

I recently ran across these at an acquaintance's home- he was moving
and had these stored there, and didn't have the space at his new
apartment for them.  I ended up getting these speakers and a huge
Kenwood amp for $50 lot price.

Does anyone know what vintage they are ?  They have a JVC logo on them.

They have one large 12" woofer, 2 mids, 2 tweeters, and one tiny piezo
tweeter- also (2) adjustable crossovers for mid and high, and (2) bass
ports.

I gave them a good 3 hour test run last weekend- imaging with my SEP
tube amp was amazing.

Are they worth anything ?  They also have removeable front grills with
wooden lattice design.

thanks in advance !



Article: 339682 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Terry S" <tschw10117@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID
Date: 15 Aug 2006 05:48:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1155646129.530241.222500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

But why have you placed SOOOO many bids on that item when you were
already the high bidder?


Steven wrote:
> jim menning wrote:
> > "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message
> > news:1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> > >
> > > I have a bid on the Sencore SG-165 offered by "travman100" that was
> > > previously part of a lot that became a topic of debate. Those of you
> > > who wanted parts but were hesitant to split a lot may now find all or
> > > most of the parts listed singly.
> > >
> > > If you have problems with PayPal, ask nicely, as I believe he is
> > > willing to help.
> > >
> > > I will probably NOT bid on the Leader scope and instead I will look for
> > > a more capable model next month.
> > >
> > > Steven/bidding as "asynchrousman"
> > >
> >
> > He'll need to learn a little more about shipping.  He is charging the same flat $30
> > shipping for the 5-lb. all the way up to 30-lb. items.
>
> I don't care. If I win he's being flexible enough to help me get it.
> He's also rewrote this puppy every which way but loose and closed
> auctions trying to accomodate you all. Those of you that want should
> get and no more nitpicking, that's pushing the envelope for a guy that
> ate two listings and may not even recover his fees.
>
> Considering the apparent quality of the items AND that the
> aforementioned Sencore just went for over 92 dollars plus 27 shipping
> in another auction only a few days ago, you asked for it, you got it,
> no TOYOTA. You said he was crazy, he listened, now he's not per your
> definitions.
>
> Please don't jinx my efforts, and I'll thank you kindly.
>
>
> > http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtravman100QQhtZ-1
> > 
> > jim menning



Article: 339683 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave McClellan" <dave@mcclellans.com>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Message-ID: <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 08:45:20 -0400

I had one like that which was branded "Tradio".

"Syl" <personne@perdu.com> wrote in message
news:vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net...
> No model, brand or label anywhere.
>
> Steel cabinet.
>
> There is something handwritten on the speaker OPT, "watterson".
> Hard to tell if it bears any relation to the radio. Simple octal AA5 using
a
> field coil speaker with the number 700 stamped on the back.
> Reminds me of an Emerson speaker or a Philco.
>
> http://www.oldradioz.com/temp/coin_radio.jpg
>
> Any help IDing the model and/or actual manufacturer would be welcome.
>
> Syl
> P.S. I did search Watterson, but nothing about coin operated radios.
>
>




Article: 339684 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net>
Message-ID: <fOjEg.357$S_5.116@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 13:15:55 GMT



Syl wrote:
> No model, brand or label anywhere.
> 
> Steel cabinet.

Man, that's hideous. I wouldn't put my name on it either.

Jeff

-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339685 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Buck Frobisher" <farside114@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BOLLINGBROOK REPORT
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:29:44 -0400
Message-ID: <12e3j27391ccb52@news.supernews.com>
References: <1154827232.039297.157030@n13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <wJ6dnXGJs7TuykjZnZ2dnUVZ_tydnZ2d@comcast.com> <r%cBg.878611$084.749089@attbi_s22> <44d55e08$0$22459$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <x4KdnYaPsYRqVkjZnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@comcast.com>

"Art's Antique Radios" <art@myantiqueradio.com> wrote in message 
news:x4KdnYaPsYRqVkjZnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Well here is the official reports (sort of....)
<lots of great info snipped>
> For me personally, sold all of my 30,000 tubes, saw a lot of friends, and 
> had a great time.  I purchased some AK advertising, a Zenith 9S30 and a 
> great porcelain Zenith pre-war sign.  Just lost out on a Zenith 805.
>

Art, was that number correct, you sold 30,000 tubes?  That sounds like a 
boxcar load!  I'm betting it wasn't all sold in onesies and twosies, right?




Article: 339686 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: Philco 610
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 07:29:00 -0600
Message-ID: <1467-44E1CC1C-805@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

I have found the same thing even after the high tube radio is aligned
properly . 



Article: 339687 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Buck Frobisher" <farside114@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:37:30 -0400
Message-ID: <12e3jgp16ge8t06@news.supernews.com>
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net> <44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>

"Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com> wrote in message 
news:44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...

> I'd like to avoid having to hand-redraw this thing to have something to 
> work off of and keep in my files. I can't get a good picture inside the 
> cabinet.
>
> Cheers,
> paul

Try it without a flash, out of doors (in sunlight).  Or, perhaps try to 
illuminate the diagram with a flashlight, again shot without the flash.




Article: 339688 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: ID needed
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 07:39:38 -0600
Message-ID: <1468-44E1CE9A-218@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net>
References: <JH6Eg.30609$PV5.213434@wagner.videotron.net>

I am not familiar with foreign radios but have seen some strange designs
 That dial looks like it came from an Airline table radio . Notice how
the dial frame covers at the top over some routed lines .  



Article: 339689 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Scott W. Harvey" <NOT_MY_REAL@email.com>
Subject: Re: Where is the CHRS web site?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 06:43:11 -0700
Message-ID: <ebsiu20u1p@news4.newsguy.com>
References: <QCcEg.6767$o27.3617@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com>

Sofa Slug wrote:
> The California Historical Radio Society's website appears to have been 
> down for the past several days....anyone know when it's coming back?


The webmaster for that site is Mike Adams. He can be reached at 
adams@email.sjsu.edu

Something is amiss....A couple of days ago it was completely down. Now, 
it's accessable but all you get is a "forbidden" error message.

-Scott


Article: 339690 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID
Date: 15 Aug 2006 07:02:19 -0700
Message-ID: <1155650539.858954.113030@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>


Terry S wrote:
> But why have you placed SOOOO many bids on that item when you were
> already the high bidder?

Are you the other bidder?

You also bid on the first one and it went for 92.10 if that's you.

I've been trying to get a good one for almost 4 years as I remember.

I guess you will see in about five days where I'm going.



Article: 339691 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 07:07:44 -0700
Message-ID: <1155650864.763946.42420@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

Pimping your auction hopefuls again?

Sorry--they don't have a field coil, they are hopeless junk I wouldn't
force on a dead guy for fear of being damned by his ghost.



Article: 339692 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:10:43 -0500
From: Bill Cohn <billcohn1.comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith Transistor Radio History
References: <ebr45v$9p1$1@news04.infoave.net>
Message-ID: <JYednTVAaMVHSHzZnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@comcast.com>

Jim Barnard wrote:
> For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the 
> engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has 
> contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his 
> comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection.
> 
> 
Jim,

I am glad you were able to get in touch with Dwight. I see he was able 
to add to your Zenith History quite nicely. Dwight was always a helpful 
engineer when I worked with him at Zenith.

Regards,

Bill Cohn
N9MHT
Former Zenith Engineer 1973-1994


Article: 339693 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 07:11:27 -0700
Message-ID: <1155651087.446546.162490@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155448463.626136.218300@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>


Hagstar wrote:
> Blackened Transistors- serves 8
>
> 2 cups germanium transistors (NOT metal cased!)
>
> 1/2 cup chopped scallions
>
> 1/4 cup pine nuts
>
> 2 tsp. olive oil
>
> 2 cups coarsely chopped PVC spaghetti (use different colors to add contrast)
>
>
>
>
>
> Heat the oil until smoking in a cast iron skillet, add transistors and cook
> until well carbonized at medium heat. Add the balance of the ingredients
> except the spaghetti and reduce heat to medium, stir for 7-9 min. until
> transistor casings smell  "cooked". Serve over PVC spaghetti with a side of
> "Selenium Tortillas".

Is that a wine meal or will diet lemonade do?



Article: 339694 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 07:13:36 -0700
Message-ID: <1155651216.298566.20990@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> It's cool.  AM and shortwave from 50-16 meters.  I wanted a valve
> shortwave receiver. I'm only a casual shortwave listener so it will do
> me. For more info on this set go to
> http://www.shlrc.mq.edu.au/~robinson/museum/kriesler.html
> I'm definitely gonna get my father to bid on it (I'm only 16, too young
> to actually have a credit card or bank account, but I will pay for the
> radio, just get him to do the bidding).

Did you get the one I saw that you linked to on eBay.au? That was an
awesome set!



Article: 339695 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1154556273.855282.81140@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <C0aAg.73$Kj.24@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <1154596293.127423.234110@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1154602427.506876.102850@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <easm7h$4ut$1@news2.kornet.net>   <1154638284.566159.11910@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>   <1154661884.091321.122590@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1154804668.336890.260530@n13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <KB9Bg.1042$UN4.842@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <1154827349.198320.44090@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1154993429.114318.155650@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155600109.397626.276900@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <RE8Eg.10196$eL2.9491@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <1155603927.281524.94500@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155646129.530241.222500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID
Message-ID: <7%kEg.3207$zg.1962@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 14:37:55 GMT


"Terry S" <tschw10117@aol.com> wrote in message 
news:1155646129.530241.222500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...

>
> But why have you placed SOOOO many bids on that item when you were
> already the high bidder?
>

http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=190020104248

I think he's trying to scare away other bidders by showing them he's crazy.  He may 
be trying to make them think he continued the $5 increment and is now sitting at 
around an $85 proxy.  If he was foxy enough, only the next few would be $5 
increments, followed by some 1-cent incremental bids.

He obviously hasn't learned the strategical and real benefits of placing a single bid 
in the last seconds of an auction.  Why show your interest early, and allow others 
the opportunity to nickle & dime the bid higher?

But whether he wins or loses this auction, there are plenty more SG165 units out 
there.  These are very common on eBay, several sell each month.

$232.50:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320008228001

$96:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330011249144

$95:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330013715911

$92.10:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200015289306

Looks like the current value on eBay is around $90 plus shipping.  And like anything 
else, more for units that are complete with cables and manuals and working, less 
without the necessary accessories and working condition unverified.

jim menning





Article: 339696 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Bill Jeffrey <wjeffrey@TAKE-THIS-OUTalum.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 14:39:04 GMT

Alan Douglas wrote:
> Hi
> 
>>This spool seems rather large.
> 
> I've never rewound a G-2, but someone posted on the net a while
> back that a G-3 took 3 lbs of wire, and a 130-A speaker took 4 lbs.
> You'll have to buy a 10 lb spool.  $$$
> 
> You'll need to find the gauge. Take a piece of the old wire, heat
> it in a match flame to red, to burn off the enamel, and mike it to a
> couple of ten-thousandths to get the diameter.  There's no guarantee
> that it will be a standard gauge however, and I couldn't tell you
> offhand if you want to go half a size larger or smaller. You might
> have to measure the enamel thickness to decide that, and compare with
> the thickness of whatever modern wire you choose.
> 
> Alan

Yup, I did a G-3 a while back.  The wire was #34, and it took over 3 
pounds of it.  There are over 8000 feet per pound of #34, so you will be 
winding a LOT of wire - nearly 5 miles!  A motorized winder that runs 
slow but steady is probably the best bet.  I cobbled one up out of a 
sewing machine motor on a variac, and a couple garage door pulleys.  I 
could probably find the writeup if anyone cares.

By the way, I would caution against the approach that goes "unwind until 
you find the break, repair it, and rewind using the original wire".  The 
original wire is no longer in good shape.  Kinks and thin spots in the 
insulation will fail at some time in the future - and you don't want to 
wind this again.

Good luck.

Bill Jeffrey


Article: 339697 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <EaCdnfZeoPnEgXzZnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@comcast.com> <FW9Eg.14544$qd.266@bignews3.bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <nOlEg.15147$0k4.7315@bignews1.bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 10:33:54 -0500

ken scharf wrote:
> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>> Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll "flicker"
>>> at 60 cps, "on" for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle.
>>> Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns "on" at the peak of every half
>>> cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second).
>> Then use a full-wave rectifier to drive the LEDs.
>>
>> Actually, a neon bulb comes on when theres about 60V to 70V across it. The
>> series resistor keeps it from being damaged. <heh-heh>
>>
>>
> Actually what's wrong with just using a neon bulb?
> NE-2's are cheap and easy to find.  You can build a dc-ac inverter
> to get the needed 90v from a 5-12v supply.
> 
...at which point it becomes cheaper (and more reliable) to use an LED.

jak



Article: 339698 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com
Subject: please help to identify this wood GE radio
Date: 15 Aug 2006 08:44:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

I have the picture at:
http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic.php?u=21319o0QXe&i=930839

There is no model number anywhere...tube line up is all american five,
12SA7, 12SK7...plus one
ballast tube...

Thank you very much in advance!

siliconvalleyEE
====================================================================



Article: 339699 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "HobbyBox" <hobby.box@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 15 Aug 2006 08:51:52 -0700
Message-ID: <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

I'd be interested in the write-up.  I was just trying to figure out the
best way to setup this winding jig, and not have it be to hack-ish.

I did mic the wire last night, but I didn't do the match trick, so I
will probably have to do it again.  It was reading around .009", which
lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG, but I am going to check
again after burning off the insulation and borrowing a better
micrometer.

Thanks,
Nate

Bill Jeffrey wrote:
> Yup, I did a G-3 a while back.  The wire was #34, and it took over 3
> pounds of it.  There are over 8000 feet per pound of #34, so you will be
> winding a LOT of wire - nearly 5 miles!  A motorized winder that runs
> slow but steady is probably the best bet.  I cobbled one up out of a
> sewing machine motor on a variac, and a couple garage door pulleys.  I
> could probably find the writeup if anyone cares.
>
> By the way, I would caution against the approach that goes "unwind until
> you find the break, repair it, and rewind using the original wire".  The
> original wire is no longer in good shape.  Kinks and thin spots in the
> insulation will fail at some time in the future - and you don't want to
> wind this again.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Bill Jeffrey



Article: 339700 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:26:42 -0400
Message-ID: <--qdnfqBHO1xaXzZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com>

my guess is this is an export only model.  In the 30's RCA used the model
code Q to designate such sets,  there might have been a code for GE sets
too.

do you own it?  No lable inside at all?  Or, underneath?

its definitely 40's era, probably late 40's and it has a ballast only
because its an export set.  That way they could put different ballasts
depending on the local voltage.

Mark Oppat


<siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...
> I have the picture at:
> http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic.php?u=21319o0QXe&i=930839
>
> There is no model number anywhere...tube line up is all american five,
> 12SA7, 12SK7...plus one
> ballast tube...
>
> Thank you very much in advance!
>
> siliconvalleyEE
> ====================================================================
>
>





Article: 339701 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:30:26 -0400
Message-ID: <yIadnSzqBN1RaHzZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@comcast.com>

Most coin op sets were ugly.  Some, extra ugly.  They were all made by small
companies who bought chassis from supplier companies, and Watterson was
probably one of them.   Or, Howard, Clinton, whoever.

Mark Oppat


"Syl" <personne@perdu.com> wrote in message
news:vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net...
> No model, brand or label anywhere.
>
> Steel cabinet.
>
> There is something handwritten on the speaker OPT, "watterson".
> Hard to tell if it bears any relation to the radio. Simple octal AA5 using
a
> field coil speaker with the number 700 stamped on the back.
> Reminds me of an Emerson speaker or a Philco.
>
> http://www.oldradioz.com/temp/coin_radio.jpg
>
> Any help IDing the model and/or actual manufacturer would be welcome.
>
> Syl
> P.S. I did search Watterson, but nothing about coin operated radios.
>
>
>





Article: 339702 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net> <44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <12e3jgp16ge8t06@news.supernews.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:35:34 -0400
Message-ID: <xdCdnfhFUN2canzZnZ2dnUVZ_vKdnZ2d@comcast.com>

I agree.  You should be able to get a clear shot outside with no flash.  Put
out a soft blanket and turn the set upside down, have someone tilt it back
and shoot the paper lable.  I thought "plant C" was Contenental Radio and
Television (later Admiral)???   Usually shown as CR&TC on diagrams and metal
license tags.

Mark Oppat



"Buck Frobisher" <farside114@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:12e3jgp16ge8t06@news.supernews.com...
> "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com> wrote in message
> news:44e161cd$0$21014$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>
> > I'd like to avoid having to hand-redraw this thing to have something to
> > work off of and keep in my files. I can't get a good picture inside the
> > cabinet.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > paul
>
> Try it without a flash, out of doors (in sunlight).  Or, perhaps try to
> illuminate the diagram with a flashlight, again shot without the flash.
>
>
>





Article: 339703 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com
Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio
Date: 15 Aug 2006 09:33:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1155659625.753788.69720@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

Thanks Mark, I could not find any identifying marks anywhere, nothing
on the back cover,
nothing at the bottom, everything looks original except the speaker...
top portion of the tube chart is removed...nothing there...nothing
readable on the back of
the chassie...

I left it in my office, I'll take a few pictures of inside of it
tomorrow...
=====================================
Mark Oppat wrote:
> my guess is this is an export only model.  In the 30's RCA used the model
> code Q to designate such sets,  there might have been a code for GE sets
> too.
>
> do you own it?  No lable inside at all?  Or, underneath?
>
> its definitely 40's era, probably late 40's and it has a ballast only
> because its an export set.  That way they could put different ballasts
> depending on the local voltage.
>
> Mark Oppat
>
>
> <siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...
> > I have the picture at:
> > http://www.pix8.net/pro/pic.php?u=21319o0QXe&i=930839
> >
> > There is no model number anywhere...tube line up is all american five,
> > 12SA7, 12SK7...plus one
> > ballast tube...
> >
> > Thank you very much in advance!
> >
> > siliconvalleyEE
> > ====================================================================
> >
> >



Article: 339704 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com> <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:41:05 -0400
Message-ID: <4rCdncFeaqzWZXzZnZ2dnUVZ_oydnZ2d@comcast.com>

Actually, I have reused field coil wire... but, you gotta know its OK and be
careful with it.  Rewound a Midwest that way.

The deal is, most enamelled wire gets the green flecks (corrosion) where it
contacts the paper form.  Most often its on the outer layers were you can
loose many turns and who cares.  But, on this Midwest, you peeled the side
form back and no green either, so we did a little testing and figured it was
in the core.  Yup, it was.  Got down to it,  cut out the bad, rewound it.
about 3 hours for 2 guys... me and my buddy Dan,  with a variable speed
drill.  ... it worked.

Mark Oppat


"Bill Jeffrey" <wjeffrey@TAKE-THIS-OUTalum.mit.edu> wrote in message
news:c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
> Alan Douglas wrote:
> > Hi
> >
> >>This spool seems rather large.
> >
> > I've never rewound a G-2, but someone posted on the net a while
> > back that a G-3 took 3 lbs of wire, and a 130-A speaker took 4 lbs.
> > You'll have to buy a 10 lb spool.  $$$
> >
> > You'll need to find the gauge. Take a piece of the old wire, heat
> > it in a match flame to red, to burn off the enamel, and mike it to a
> > couple of ten-thousandths to get the diameter.  There's no guarantee
> > that it will be a standard gauge however, and I couldn't tell you
> > offhand if you want to go half a size larger or smaller. You might
> > have to measure the enamel thickness to decide that, and compare with
> > the thickness of whatever modern wire you choose.
> >
> > Alan
>
> Yup, I did a G-3 a while back.  The wire was #34, and it took over 3
> pounds of it.  There are over 8000 feet per pound of #34, so you will be
> winding a LOT of wire - nearly 5 miles!  A motorized winder that runs
> slow but steady is probably the best bet.  I cobbled one up out of a
> sewing machine motor on a variac, and a couple garage door pulleys.  I
> could probably find the writeup if anyone cares.
>
> By the way, I would caution against the approach that goes "unwind until
> you find the break, repair it, and rewind using the original wire".  The
> original wire is no longer in good shape.  Kinks and thin spots in the
> insulation will fail at some time in the future - and you don't want to
> wind this again.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Bill Jeffrey
>





Article: 339705 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner)
Subject: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 11:50:27 -0500
Message-ID: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>

ALL THE CORRESPONDENCE REGARDING THE DIAL COVER KITS I SELL HAS BEEN
EXCELLENT SO FAR.  JUST WONDERING HOW THE REST OF YOU ARE DOING?


CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com
Bill Turner, excuse  caps, short answers, stroke.
Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide.  






Article: 339706 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net>
Subject: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 09:51:28 -0700
Message-ID: <asu3e29shg5f9jng1f94cde6l3d305p278@4ax.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

On 15 Aug 2006 05:42:23 -0700, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, this
time masquerading as "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net> wrote:

>http://i7.tinypic.com/24o4tbl.jpg
>
>I recently ran across these at an acquaintance's home- he was moving
>and had these stored there, and didn't have the space at his new
>apartment for them.  I ended up getting these speakers and a huge
>Kenwood amp for $50 lot price. <snip>

Don't help this well-known fraudster and eBay con artist, Charlie Nudo
aka 66fourdoor on fraudBay.  He's just trolling for interest to try to
figure out what "gouge" price to ask on fraudBay, and to post hype
about them on his auction page.  He does it EVERY time.

Just say NO to NUdo!


Article: 339707 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: isotope115@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Where is the CHRS web site?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 10:51:37 -0700
Message-ID: <1155664297.382301.184820@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <QCcEg.6767$o27.3617@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com>


Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> Sofa Slug wrote:
> > The California Historical Radio Society's website appears to have been
> > down for the past several days....anyone know when it's coming back?
>
>
> The webmaster for that site is Mike Adams. He can be reached at
> adams@email.sjsu.edu
>
> Something is amiss....A couple of days ago it was completely down. Now,
> it's accessable but all you get is a "forbidden" error message.
>
> -Scott

 I  think it's been down for a week, but it is back up as of now.  The
story I heard is that the internet service provider switched servers,
and the password needed to be re-entered.  Supposedly that the only
person that had the password was on a cruise ship and out of contact.

Ken



Article: 339708 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "gil" <gi1pi@yahoo.com>
Subject: Grundig Majestic 2068 question
Date: 15 Aug 2006 11:30:39 -0700
Message-ID: <1155666638.672365.90770@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

I have one of these beauties in very nice shape that I pull out of the
closet once in a while to play with and to this day it still amazes me
how well it works, sensitive and selective as well not to mention great
audio.

My question is...is there a manual I can download somewhere for this
radio?

And any info like year made, price, anything would be appreciated since
I cant seem to find anything on it on the web.

Thanks in advance, Gil



Article: 339709 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <JH6Eg.30609$PV5.213434@wagner.videotron.net> <1468-44E1CE9A-218@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: ID needed
Message-ID: <9NoEg.72592$_J1.728355@twister2.libero.it>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 18:56:05 GMT


"Ken G."
>I am not familiar with foreign radios but have seen some strange designs
> That dial looks like it came from an Airline table radio . Notice how
> the dial frame covers at the top over some routed lines .

....corriente alternada...!
http://www.junkradios.com/public/Rtag.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/Ftag.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/ohmygod.jpg


-- 
 Daniele
 http://www.tuberadio.it




Article: 339710 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 12:54:29 -0700
Message-ID: <1155671669.492228.145840@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>

Paul, I have had good luck photographing the inside wall of the cabinet
using a mirror and outdoor natural light as suggested. Set the mirror
on a 45 degree angle and shoot the photo using telephoto zoom, then in
the photo program flip the image the correct way for your shot and you
should have a nice 'square' image that you can read.

Neil S.

Paul Dietenberger wrote:
> "Aaron Hunter" <ahunter01@NOSPAMcomcast.net> wrote in message
> news:44E117DD.7040606@NOSPAMcomcast.net...
>
> Thanks much, I appreciate it.
> The serial number is 313022 with no letter or number prefixes. It's
> otherwise just marked "Plant C Chicago" and a typewritten note stating that
> due to the set's extreme sensitivity that the user is not to use an antenna
> longer than 30 feet with it. :-)
>
> I'm sure it's not a Belmont, I don't think they were plant C and the look of
> both the set and the schematic pasted inside are all wrong for Belmont.
> Here's a partial picture of the schematic in the cabinet. Does the
> look-and-feel and character styling ring a bell with anyone?
>
> http://personalpages.tds.net/~pdieten/plantc.jpg
>
> I'd like to avoid having to hand-redraw this thing to have something to work
> off of and keep in my files. I can't get a good picture inside the cabinet.
>
> Cheers,
> paul
>
>
> > Paul
> >
> > Good looking radio!
> >
> > According to my information, "Plant A" was for Clinton.  A "C" preceeding
> > the serial number was for Corona Radio & Telev. Corp of Chicago, Ill.  Is
> > there a "25" or some letter preceeding the serial number?
> >
> > Mark suggested "Imperial".  There are pictures of Imperials in Stein's
> > "Pre-War Consoles" that are close but not exact to your set.  The grill
> > and dial resemble yours.  None pictured had 11 tubes.
> >
> > Imperial was manufactured by Belmont Radio Corp of Chicago, Ill.  Names
> > used by Belmont were "Belmont", "Classique", "Crusader", "Goodyear Wings",
> > "Freshman", "Imperial", "Starck Classique", "Truetone", and "Wings".
> >
> > I checked the Belmont listings in Mallory and there were no tube line-ups
> > like yours.
> >
> > Aaron
> >
> > Paul Dietenberger wrote:
> >> I need something looked up. I'm not sure if it's in Riders though.
> >>
> >> This is a "Plant C" radio, there's a guess that it may have been made by
> >> Clinton. Looks like this:
> >> http://antiqueradios.com/albums/Orphan/plant_c.jpg
> >> 11 tube console. It calls itself Model 1101; Scott's schematic finder
> >> failed to locate any 1101 that matches this. I'm wondering if it may be
> >> there under some other name/number. There's a schematic glued to the
> >> inside of the cabinet but it's awful inconvenient to use on the bench :-)
> >> and doesn't photograph well.
> >>
> >> Tube lineup: 6J7, 6K7, 76(x3), 6C6(x2), 6F6(x2), 6G5, 80.
> >>
> >> Also looking for a small brass nameplate for it. Don't care what name is
> >> on it, as long as it's one of those little rectangular independent
> >> maker-style nail-on tags.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >> paul
> >
>
>
> 
> -- 
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



Article: 339711 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Zenith Transistor Radio History
From: "Jim Barnard" <jbarnard@ftc-i.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 15:56:06 -0400
Message-ID: <ebt8sl$6tk$1@news04.infoave.net>
References: <ebr45v$9p1$1@news04.infoave.net> <JYednTVAaMVHSHzZnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@comcast.com>

Bill:

Thanks for your comments. It took me a while to run down Mr. Poppy.  Once I 
made contact, he was most helpful.

One of the sad things is that the engineers and designers who worked on the 
first Royal 500 are apparently now deceased. There are so many questions 
that I would like to have asked these folks, but now, I want get the chance.

Jim Barnard


"Bill Cohn" <billcohn1.comcast.net> wrote in message 
news:JYednTVAaMVHSHzZnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Jim Barnard wrote:
>> For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the 
>> engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has 
>> contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his 
>> comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection.
>>
>>
> Jim,
>
> I am glad you were able to get in touch with Dwight. I see he was able to 
> add to your Zenith History quite nicely. Dwight was always a helpful 
> engineer when I worked with him at Zenith.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Cohn
> N9MHT
> Former Zenith Engineer 1973-1994 




Article: 339712 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <JH6Eg.30609$PV5.213434@wagner.videotron.net> <1468-44E1CE9A-218@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <9NoEg.72592$_J1.728355@twister2.libero.it>
Subject: Re: ID needed
Message-ID: <ZFpEg.3213$zg.3061@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 19:56:41 GMT


"Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it> wrote in message 
news:9NoEg.72592$_J1.728355@twister2.libero.it...
>
> "Ken G."
>>I am not familiar with foreign radios but have seen some strange designs
>> That dial looks like it came from an Airline table radio . Notice how
>> the dial frame covers at the top over some routed lines .
>
> ....corriente alternada...!
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/Rtag.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/Ftag.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/ohmygod.jpg
>


Syl & Ken were correct.  Pretty obvious now that this is not the radio that 
originally came in this cabinet.

jim menning 




Article: 339713 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 15 Aug 2006 13:08:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1155672491.482250.324700@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Actually, the final resistance of the field coil is not really very
critical, nor are the turns. One wants of get close to the original
resistance and turns, but a 10% error would, like everything else in
the radio, not likely cause a noticable difference. It should not be
difficult to come well within 10% using any kind of lashup.

Whoever wanted to know about the set-up, send me a direct message and I
will take a photo of the side blocks I use and email it to you. I used
a 3/8" ready-rod as a spindle and you can chuck that in a drill and
then stick the stub on the far side of the coil into a hole in a wood
block in a vice, post or tree, as a back steady. Set the spool of new
wire on end in a round 5 gal bucket and once you get going it will fly
off the spool with virtually no drag and no chance of snarling if you
stop winding.

Neil S.

Mark Oppat wrote:
> Actually, I have reused field coil wire... but, you gotta know its OK and be
> careful with it.  Rewound a Midwest that way.
>
> The deal is, most enamelled wire gets the green flecks (corrosion) where it
> contacts the paper form.  Most often its on the outer layers were you can
> loose many turns and who cares.  But, on this Midwest, you peeled the side
> form back and no green either, so we did a little testing and figured it was
> in the core.  Yup, it was.  Got down to it,  cut out the bad, rewound it.
> about 3 hours for 2 guys... me and my buddy Dan,  with a variable speed
> drill.  ... it worked.
>
> Mark Oppat
>
>
> "Bill Jeffrey" <wjeffrey@TAKE-THIS-OUTalum.mit.edu> wrote in message
> news:c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
> > Alan Douglas wrote:
> > > Hi
> > >
> > >>This spool seems rather large.
> > >
> > > I've never rewound a G-2, but someone posted on the net a while
> > > back that a G-3 took 3 lbs of wire, and a 130-A speaker took 4 lbs.
> > > You'll have to buy a 10 lb spool.  $$$
> > >
> > > You'll need to find the gauge. Take a piece of the old wire, heat
> > > it in a match flame to red, to burn off the enamel, and mike it to a
> > > couple of ten-thousandths to get the diameter.  There's no guarantee
> > > that it will be a standard gauge however, and I couldn't tell you
> > > offhand if you want to go half a size larger or smaller. You might
> > > have to measure the enamel thickness to decide that, and compare with
> > > the thickness of whatever modern wire you choose.
> > >
> > > Alan
> >
> > Yup, I did a G-3 a while back.  The wire was #34, and it took over 3
> > pounds of it.  There are over 8000 feet per pound of #34, so you will be
> > winding a LOT of wire - nearly 5 miles!  A motorized winder that runs
> > slow but steady is probably the best bet.  I cobbled one up out of a
> > sewing machine motor on a variac, and a couple garage door pulleys.  I
> > could probably find the writeup if anyone cares.
> >
> > By the way, I would caution against the approach that goes "unwind until
> > you find the break, repair it, and rewind using the original wire".  The
> > original wire is no longer in good shape.  Kinks and thin spots in the
> > insulation will fail at some time in the future - and you don't want to
> > wind this again.
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > Bill Jeffrey
> >



Article: 339714 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "AB9GO" <randallr@healthall.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:09:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Yep.  Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups.  The nice thing
is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!!  Few if any
"Made in Japan"  speakers from that era are worth much of anything.


DeserTBoB wrote:
> On 15 Aug 2006 05:42:23 -0700, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, this
> time masquerading as "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net> wrote:
>
> >http://i7.tinypic.com/24o4tbl.jpg
> >
> >I recently ran across these at an acquaintance's home- he was moving
> >and had these stored there, and didn't have the space at his new
> >apartment for them.  I ended up getting these speakers and a huge
> >Kenwood amp for $50 lot price. <snip>
>
> Don't help this well-known fraudster and eBay con artist, Charlie Nudo
> aka 66fourdoor on fraudBay.  He's just trolling for interest to try to
> figure out what "gouge" price to ask on fraudBay, and to post hype
> about them on his auction page.  He does it EVERY time.
> 
> Just say NO to NUdo!



Article: 339715 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 18:14:57 -0400
Message-ID: <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


 Try this person perhaps, says they have lots-

http://cgi.ebay.com/29-Ga-Magnet-Wire-Aprox-9-12-Lbs_W0QQitemZ220016604719QQihZ012QQcategoryZ100180QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem 




Article: 339716 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "AB9GO" <randallr@healthall.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:32:04 -0700
Message-ID: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Yep.  Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups.  The nice thing
is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!!  Few if any
"Made in Japan"  speakers from that era are worth much of anything.


DeserTBoB wrote:
> On 15 Aug 2006 05:42:23 -0700, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, this
> time masquerading as "CAINE" <bb69@epix.net> wrote:
>
> >http://i7.tinypic.com/24o4tbl.jpg
> >
> >I recently ran across these at an acquaintance's home- he was moving
> >and had these stored there, and didn't have the space at his new
> >apartment for them.  I ended up getting these speakers and a huge
> >Kenwood amp for $50 lot price. <snip>
>
> Don't help this well-known fraudster and eBay con artist, Charlie Nudo
> aka 66fourdoor on fraudBay.  He's just trolling for interest to try to
> figure out what "gouge" price to ask on fraudBay, and to post hype
> about them on his auction page.  He does it EVERY time.
> 
> Just say NO to NUdo!



Article: 339717 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:33:12 -0700
Message-ID: <1155681190.349527.175330@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155458232.582560.229100@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>

No, someone else got that one.  Damn. I know, I fell in love with it
too.  But I've got an eye on a couple, so if I lose one, I can go bid
on another.



Article: 339718 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:36:31 -0700
Message-ID: <1155681390.948225.226410@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

View this one, and tell me if its any good.



Article: 339719 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 15:36:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1155681402.588938.166900@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

View this one, and tell me if its any
good.http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VINTAGE-OPERATIC-WOODEN-CASE-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ300015608962QQihZ020QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



Article: 339720 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: ID needed
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 16:38:53 -0600
Message-ID: <24556-44E24CFD-267@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net>
References: <ZFpEg.3213$zg.3061@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>

OMG ... i smell hack job . Quick resell it !



Article: 339721 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 16:34:16 -0600
Message-ID: <24555-44E24BE8-966@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

For a common Majestic radio i would find a replacement field coil
speaker about the same ohms and throw the old speaker away .



Article: 339722 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 16:42:13 -0600
Message-ID: <24555-44E24DC5-967@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net>
References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>

Well ... i am doing without 



Article: 339723 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Bob Weiss <bob.weiss@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
References: <RREDg.71133$_J1.722650@twister2.libero.it> <1155577559.829511.38930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <be4Eg.72075$_J1.726251@twister2.libero.it>
Message-ID: <HksEg.6511$Ji1.1344@trnddc05>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 22:58:47 GMT

Daniele wrote:
> "RadioGary"
> 
>> So considering this radio is antique and somewhat aged, would that make
>> it an
>> OLD FART RADIO?
> 
> ...bad caps? ;-)
> 
  More like a bad selenium rectifier...:)

Bob Weiss N2IXK


Article: 339724 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: yerke@adelphia.net (Rick Yerke)
Subject: WTB: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 23:53:58 GMT
Message-ID: <DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com>

This is going to be a longshot, but i recently picked up a near mint RCA 
3BX671 Stratoworld Portable radio that was missing the dial pointer.This is 
the radio that is similiar to the Zenith Transoceanics.If anyone has a junker 
they are parting out i could use the pointer.  Rick
email   yerke@adelphia.net


Article: 339725 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Engineer" <analogdino@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: 15 Aug 2006 17:40:57 -0700
Message-ID: <1155688857.749094.312170@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>

I invariably use LEDs on vintage solid state receiver restorations
instead of pea lamps.
Whatever you do, don't let the PIV on the LED exceed 5 volts.  On AC I
always use a small parallel reverse diode so one half of the waveform
conducts through the LED and the other half though the protection
diode.  A mS of thought will tell you that the series resistor gives no
PIV protection.  Or use two back to back LED's, of course.
Cheers,
Roger



Article: 339726 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>   <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net>   <EaCdnfZeoPnEgXzZnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155688857.749094.312170@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 18:01:55 -0700
Message-ID: <id2dnZAUjssd83_ZnZ2dnUVZ_t2dnZ2d@comcast.com>

> A mS of thought will tell you that the series resistor
> gives no PIV protection.

ms (millisecond), not mS (millisiemen).




Article: 339727 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Crosley 516 Question Again
From: Paul <nospam@all.net>
Message-ID: <Xns9820C19F89491nospamallnet@24.70.95.211>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 01:02:00 GMT

I finally installed the new resistors to replace the Candohm, but this
did not fix the Crosley's problem, so I was rechecking everything again and
discovered if I wiggle the 6b5 tube I get some output from the speaker and
was even able to hear a station for a moment. This tube socket is 2 layers 
of bakelite, I'm guessing it's arching in between the 2 layers, is there 
any way to repair this? or would a new socket be the best bet (if you can 
get this type of socket?)


I did try shooting some isopropanol alcohol into it with no sucess


Paul


Article: 339728 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com>
Subject: Re: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:15:30 -0400
Message-ID: <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com>

If you have to re-string it,  its a super tricky one you would NEVER guess
on your own.  The SAMS print is wrong, so is their dial cord book.  Only the
RCA print is right... and (what do you know?) I happen to have it.  The deal
is the dial cord actually pulls another subsystem that is anchored at each
end to the dial face. the subsystem has two pulleys.    Kinda like a
"come-along" works.   Ingenious.  It ends up expanding the run of the
pointer.

 I have several dial pointers here but you'd be amazed how much they vary in
the way they hang off the dial.   Did you look inside the set REAL good?

Mark Oppat


"Rick Yerke" <yerke@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com...
> This is going to be a longshot, but i recently picked up a near mint RCA
> 3BX671 Stratoworld Portable radio that was missing the dial pointer.This
is
> the radio that is similiar to the Zenith Transoceanics.If anyone has a
junker
> they are parting out i could use the pointer.  Rick
> email   yerke@adelphia.net
>





Article: 339729 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <Xns9820C19F89491nospamallnet@24.70.95.211>
Subject: Re: Crosley 516 Question Again
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:17:16 -0400
Message-ID: <p4qdnRebvdbY7H_ZnZ2dnUVZ_qmdnZ2d@comcast.com>

You can get most sockets from me.  However, they vary by mounting holes and
method of mounting.  Look in the AES catalog to get an idea.

Mark  Oppat
www.oldradioparts.net



"Paul" <nospam@all.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9820C19F89491nospamallnet@24.70.95.211...
> I finally installed the new resistors to replace the Candohm, but this
> did not fix the Crosley's problem, so I was rechecking everything again
and
> discovered if I wiggle the 6b5 tube I get some output from the speaker and
> was even able to hear a station for a moment. This tube socket is 2 layers
> of bakelite, I'm guessing it's arching in between the 2 layers, is there
> any way to repair this? or would a new socket be the best bet (if you can
> get this type of socket?)
>
>
> I did try shooting some isopropanol alcohol into it with no sucess
>
>
> Paul
>





Article: 339730 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: yerke@adelphia.net (Rick Yerke)
Subject: Re: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer
References: <DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com> <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 01:29:37 GMT
Message-ID: <uOKdnZQS7s5u6X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@adelphia.com>




 In article <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com>, "Mark Oppat" 
<moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet> wrote:
>If you have to re-string it,  its a super tricky one you would NEVER guess
>on your own.  The SAMS print is wrong, so is their dial cord book.  Only the
>RCA print is right... and (what do you know?) I happen to have it.  The deal
>is the dial cord actually pulls another subsystem that is anchored at each
>end to the dial face. the subsystem has two pulleys.    Kinda like a
>"come-along" works.   Ingenious.  It ends up expanding the run of the
>pointer.
>
> I have several dial pointers here but you'd be amazed how much they vary in
>the way they hang off the dial.   Did you look inside the set REAL good?
>
>Mark Oppat
>
>
>"Rick Yerke" <yerke@adelphia.net> wrote in message
>news:DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com...
>> This is going to be a longshot, but i recently picked up a near mint RCA
>> 3BX671 Stratoworld Portable radio that was missing the dial pointer.This
>is
>> the radio that is similiar to the Zenith Transoceanics.If anyone has a
>junker
>> they are parting out i could use the pointer.  Rick
>> email   yerke@adelphia.net
>>
>
Mark: I had the radio all apart and there was no pointer or it`s other parts 
anywhere.I looked at my Sam`s Dial cord books and saw how complicated the 
stringing is for this radio,but the way it is set-up now i can still turn the 
tuning knob and bring in statios, although i don`t know what frequency it is 
tuned to.Right now i just have a skinny piece of white tape stuck behind the 
dial cover to simulate a pointer.It looks pretty good for display 
purposes.Someday i might find the pointer and it`s sub assembly and then i 
might need the RCA stringing guide.Thanks Rick

>
>


Article: 339731 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Sal Brisindi <salb203@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: It speaks!
References: <Z6TDg.56392$u05.8958@trnddc01>
Message-ID: <zHuEg.297$FY6.112@newsfe11.lga>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:39:40 -0400

Hi James,
Hows things? Congratulations purchasing and repairing your 1st tube 
radio although you fixed many other items in your life. I promise you 
one thing, 1 or 2 radios is not enough... :-)

Regards,
Sal Brisindi

James Sweet wrote:
> Some of you may have been following my acquisition of a console 
> consisting of a 1938 7 tube Zenith shutterdial chassis in a Sparton 
> cabinet.
>
> I finally had some time to work on the chassis some this weekend. I 
> replaced the electrolytics as well as a capacitor hanging off the 
> audio output tube and another cap and resistor (out of tolerance) that 
> happened to share some of the same lugs. I applied power, no smoke or 
> funny sounds, and then a short while later I was greeted by a buzz. A 
> twirl of the dial and people bitching about politics blared from the 
> speaker, not my first choice of listening material but it works! I was 
> pleased to find a fair amount of activity on the SW band though the 
> tuning seems a bit twitchy, as well as a tiny amount on the "Police" 
> band which all in all is pretty impressive given my antenna is about 
> 6' of wire strewn across the floor.
>
> It's definitely far from done, the controls are very noisy, the tuning 
> feels a bit odd at least on the SW band, the tuning eye glows dimly 
> but is completely unresponsive, the insulation is crumbling off the 
> speaker wires and there's still a fair amount of cleaning and other 
> cosmetic work to do but it's off to a good start. I've been restuffing 
> the original capacitors as practice, it does slow things down a bit 
> but it's not as difficult as I would have assumed. I cheated and used 
> hot glue instead of salvaging the original brown wax and then dipping 
> the finished cap in molten white candle wax to give it that waxy look, 
> it'd take a close eye to ever see the difference.
>
> I'm already feeling the itch to get another radio too, hopefully I can 
> find a nice little wood cased table radio at some point, an AA5 would 
> be fine, I'm *hoping* that that'll be enough, I don't want my whole 
> house stacked with radios, at some point I wouldn't mind trading up to 
> a nicer all original console though.


From adouglasatgis.net Thu Aug 17 01:52:48 EDT 2006
Article: 339732 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Alan Douglas <adouglasatgis.net>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:27:38 -0400
Organization: NewsGuy - Unlimited Usenet $19.95
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Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339732

Hi,

> It was reading around .009", which
>lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG,

   You need to know exactly. An error of one wire size will lead to a
large error in turns and resistance. 50% error wouldn't surprise me.
You don't need to count turns, but  they will affect the magnetic
field strength of the completed speaker.

   And do follow Neil's advice on the supply spool, which sits on end,
stationary, with the wire being taken off over the upper flange.

   Finally a small rant.  A micrometer caliper, a microphone, or a
Michael, are all mike.  Not mic.  You don't say Mic rode his bic on
the turnpic.

Alan


Article: 339733 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard)
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 18:41:03 -0700
Message-ID: <8942-44E277AF-376@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net>
References: <FW9Eg.14544$qd.266@bignews3.bellsouth.net>

>From Ken S.:
 
>Actually what's wrong with just using a 
>neon bulb? NE-2's are cheap and easy to >find.

Neon bulbs (like NE-2s) sold nowadays seems to have a short lifespan
compared to those available 50 years ago. 
                  If you can find some old appliances like irons,
pressure cookers or waffle irons at Goodwill/Starvation Army containing
neon bulbs, those bulbs will last indefinitely (with correct series
resistor of course). Another source is old wall switches containing
NE-2s in the handle. In my apt. building there are some of these
switches that have been illuminated 24/7 for at least 40 years
continuously.
                       Bill(oc)  
         



Article: 339734 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 18:54:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1155693299.909089.141210@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155460507.489762.133740@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> View this one, and tell me if its any
> good.http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VINTAGE-OPERATIC-WOODEN-CASE-VALVE-RADIO_W0QQitemZ300015608962QQihZ020QQcategoryZ933QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I think they're ALL good to an extent, but then I'm a radio addict, am
I not?



Article: 339735 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Crosley 516 Question Again
Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:00:58 -0700
Message-ID: <1155693658.056965.282950@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <Xns9820C19F89491nospamallnet@24.70.95.211>

Paul, what makes you think it is arcing inside the socket? Generally
the large pin sockets have really good internal spacing, so that is not
usually a problem. Poor contact between the tube pins and the socket
clips is far more common in my experience as well as broken solder
connections in the tube pin tips, especially if the bulb is loose on
the base. A not common problem is the brass contact assembly fracturing
between the pin clip and the solder tag; with the tube out, gently
wiggle the tags and see if the clips move. If there is a break, just
carfully solder a wire from the clip to the tag. Also, wiggling the
tube can move components connected to the socket tags and jiggle an
intermittant connection, although this is more common with molded
sockets.

Neil S.

Paul wrote:
> I finally installed the new resistors to replace the Candohm, but this
> did not fix the Crosley's problem, so I was rechecking everything again and
> discovered if I wiggle the 6b5 tube I get some output from the speaker and
> was even able to hear a station for a moment. This tube socket is 2 layers
> of bakelite, I'm guessing it's arching in between the 2 layers, is there
> any way to repair this? or would a new socket be the best bet (if you can
> get this type of socket?)
>
>
> I did try shooting some isopropanol alcohol into it with no sucess
> 
> 
> Paul



Article: 339736 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith Transistor Radio History
Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:02:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1155693753.930575.98100@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebr45v$9p1$1@news04.infoave.net>


Jim Barnard wrote:
> Bill:
>
> Thanks for your comments. It took me a while to run down Mr. Poppy.  Once I
> made contact, he was most helpful.
>
> One of the sad things is that the engineers and designers who worked on the
> first Royal 500 are apparently now deceased. There are so many questions
> that I would like to have asked these folks, but now, I want get the chance.
>
> Jim Barnard

How terribly sad.

>
>
> "Bill Cohn" <billcohn1.comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:JYednTVAaMVHSHzZnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@comcast.com...
> > Jim Barnard wrote:
> >> For those who enjoy Zenith transistor radio history, Dwight Poppy, the
> >> engineer who designed the IF section for the wonderful Royal 500H has
> >> contributed some information about his work at Zenith. You can read his
> >> comments at www.transistor-repairs.com under the HISTORY menu selection.
> >>
> >>
> > Jim,
> >
> > I am glad you were able to get in touch with Dwight. I see he was able to
> > add to your Zenith History quite nicely. Dwight was always a helpful
> > engineer when I worked with him at Zenith.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Bill Cohn
> > N9MHT
> > Former Zenith Engineer 1973-1994



Article: 339738 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:04:41 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ebtufp$j1d$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net> <yIadnSzqBN1RaHzZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@comcast.com>

In <yIadnSzqBN1RaHzZnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@comcast.com> "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet> writes:

>Most coin op sets were ugly.

   That makes sense, when you think about it.  You don't want something
attractive that the unethical will be tempted to steal.  Plus it's got
to withstand the treatment of a public place.

>Some, extra ugly.

   Some hotels require extra effort to ensure it's not the least
hideous thing in the room.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339739 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Where is the CHRS web site?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:05:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1155693942.374179.189450@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <QCcEg.6767$o27.3617@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com>


isotope115@yahoo.com wrote:
> Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> > Sofa Slug wrote:
> > > The California Historical Radio Society's website appears to have been
> > > down for the past several days....anyone know when it's coming back?
> >
> >
> > The webmaster for that site is Mike Adams. He can be reached at
> > adams@email.sjsu.edu
> >
> > Something is amiss....A couple of days ago it was completely down. Now,
> > it's accessable but all you get is a "forbidden" error message.
> >
> > -Scott
>
>  I  think it's been down for a week, but it is back up as of now.  The
> story I heard is that the internet service provider switched servers,
> and the password needed to be re-entered.  Supposedly that the only
> person that had the password was on a cruise ship and out of contact.
>
> Ken

Ya gotta LOVE those providers...at least nobody found themselves found
themselves being hosted by Upper Slobodian Internet, especially during
the Slobodh insurgency.



Article: 339740 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Jiri Placek" <radiotubes@fast.net>
Subject: Russian/Eastern European wire radios
Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:07:36 -0700
Message-ID: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

That was a topic here some time ago.  I just returned from Europe with
a sophisticated soviet three-channel receiver ALTAIR PT-204 that was
apparently made in 1990's.  It is a 220 V unit that received 30 V,
two-wire signal.  It was made after 1988 as there is a reference to the
standard GOST18286-88. It consists of two units - one is digital alarm
clock with a nixie display and the other one amplified wire radio
receiver for three programs.  I suspect that two of those three audio
signals were at the distribution station heterodyned to ultrasonic
frequencies and then converted back to audio signal in the receiver.
There are three knobs on the back side that appear to be tunable traps,
perhaps for harmonic frequencies.

It is amazing that such wire radio was made even in 1990's when there
was already a good FM signal coverage and people were not driven nuts
by AM interference that eventually lead them to wire radio.

Another amazing detail are the plugs that are of the same desing for
both 220 V power and for the 30 V audio signal.  I wonder how many
units were fried....

I tried to find some info on either the technical standard for this
multi-signal system or schematics of the radio itself but I have failed
so far.  I will appreciate any lead.

Jiri Placek
Boyertown, PA



Article: 339742 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: cuhulin@webtv.net
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 20:00:37 -0500
Message-ID: <3701-44E27C45-933@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net>
References: <44DF88DB.C91CAB4E@earthlink.net>

That's not a nice thing to say about Italian radios.Shame!
cuhulin



Article: 339743 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Someone in Kentucky...He has split the lot up now/PLEASE NOTE MY BID
Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:18:48 -0700
Message-ID: <1155694728.312665.228270@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1154482416.063476.246370@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>


jim menning wrote:
> "Terry S" <tschw10117@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:1155646129.530241.222500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...
>
> >
> > But why have you placed SOOOO many bids on that item when you were
> > already the high bidder?
> >
>
> http://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBids&item=190020104248
>
> I think he's trying to scare away other bidders by showing them he's crazy.  He may
> be trying to make them think he continued the $5 increment and is now sitting at
> around an $85 proxy.  If he was foxy enough, only the next few would be $5
> increments, followed by some 1-cent incremental bids.
>
> He obviously hasn't learned the strategical and real benefits of placing a single bid
> in the last seconds of an auction.  Why show your interest early, and allow others
> the opportunity to nickle & dime the bid higher?
>
> But whether he wins or loses this auction, there are plenty more SG165 units out
> there.  These are very common on eBay, several sell each month.
>
> $232.50:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320008228001
>
> $96:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330011249144
>
> $95:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330013715911
>
> $92.10:  http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200015289306
>
> Looks like the current value on eBay is around $90 plus shipping.  And like anything
> else, more for units that are complete with cables and manuals and working, less
> without the necessary accessories and working condition unverified.
>
> jim menning

Via the Animals: It's my bid, and I'll do what I want. Quit picking at
my strategy. You haven't been bidding on them (or trying to for four
years). Whether or not they are common, this one I hope will be the
last one I need to look at.

232 bucks is insane, possibly, but you have just over 4 days to view
the carnage or whatever, don't you think?

Why are you concerned so strongly? Am I bidding against somebody in the
group?



Article: 339744 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:28:23 -0700
Message-ID: <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>


RG wrote:
> Why is that ?
>
> I have a JVC KD-SH9750 HU in my GTI that I would not dream of replacing. It
> is by far the best sounding HU I have ever had ... and I have had most of
> the top of the line HU's at one time or another. In fact, I have top of the
> line Alpines sitting on the shelf right now because they just can't touch
> this JVC in SQ (and I have tried them). So is your statement general in
> nature or aimed at specific offerings from JVC ?
>
> - RG
>
> <0junk4me@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> news:1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
> > THe first letter in JVC stands for Junk.
> >
> > WHy you'd post this to newsgroups where audio production
> > professionals hang is beyond me.  THIs stuff is utter crap
> > pure and simple.
> > Back under your rock please.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Richard webb,
> > Electric Spider Productions
> > Replace anything before the @ symbol with elspider for real
> > email address.
> >
> >
> >
> > "In some hands, all the knobs are suck knobs." -- Jay Kadis

SQ???

Why do you have a quad unit in your VW? How do you match it to the car
stereo? MOST of those things were like 15 w/channel rear amp with no
good preouts to do it right in your home (unless you do some creative
wiring)!

I've got a 4VR-5446 and there are at least two "work" units at Oak Tree
Enterprises maybe dirt cheap, get the board and build one right to put
under the seat. Sounds like an interesting project, even if it's not
really needed.



Article: 339745 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: ken scharf <wa2mzeNOSPAMBOTS@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <FW9Eg.14544$qd.266@bignews3.bellsouth.net> <8942-44E277AF-376@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <NrvEg.15992$qd.15138@bignews3.bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 22:31:18 -0400

Bill Sheppard wrote:
> From Ken S.:
>  
>> Actually what's wrong with just using a 
>> neon bulb? NE-2's are cheap and easy to >find.
> 
> Neon bulbs (like NE-2s) sold nowadays seems to have a short lifespan
> compared to those available 50 years ago. 
Hmmm, guess the made in China bulbs don't have quite as much Neon in
them as the old ones or the glass is thinner...
You know when a neon bulb has reached the end of life when it won't
light in the dark, but does in the daytime.  I have a few
neon night lights that used to work in the dark, but now just flicker a
bit.

I used to have a screw in 5W neon bulb and an Argon one too.
They worked fine with those old magneto generators.
>                   If you can find some old appliances like irons,
> pressure cookers or waffle irons at Goodwill/Starvation Army containing
> neon bulbs, those bulbs will last indefinitely (with correct series
> resistor of course). Another source is old wall switches containing
> NE-2s in the handle. In my apt. building there are some of these
> switches that have been illuminated 24/7 for at least 40 years
> continuously.
>                        Bill(oc)  
>          
> 


Article: 339746 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer
References: <DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com> <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com> <uOKdnZQS7s5u6X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@adelphia.com>
Message-ID: <osvEg.26224$Uq1.6238@bignews6.bellsouth.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:33:08 -0500

Rick Yerke wrote:
>  In article <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com>, "Mark Oppat" 
> <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet> wrote:
>> If you have to re-string it,  its a super tricky one you would NEVER guess
>> on your own.  The SAMS print is wrong, so is their dial cord book.  Only the
>> RCA print is right... and (what do you know?) I happen to have it.  The deal
>> is the dial cord actually pulls another subsystem that is anchored at each
>> end to the dial face. the subsystem has two pulleys.    Kinda like a
>> "come-along" works.   Ingenious.  It ends up expanding the run of the
>> pointer.
>>
>> I have several dial pointers here but you'd be amazed how much they vary in
>> the way they hang off the dial.   Did you look inside the set REAL good?
>>
>> Mark Oppat
>>
>>
>> "Rick Yerke" <yerke@adelphia.net> wrote in message
>> news:DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com...
>>> This is going to be a longshot, but i recently picked up a near mint RCA
>>> 3BX671 Stratoworld Portable radio that was missing the dial pointer.This
>> is
>>> the radio that is similiar to the Zenith Transoceanics.If anyone has a
>> junker
>>> they are parting out i could use the pointer.  Rick
>>> email   yerke@adelphia.net
>>>
> Mark: I had the radio all apart and there was no pointer or it`s other parts 
> anywhere.I looked at my Sam`s Dial cord books and saw how complicated the 
> stringing is for this radio,but the way it is set-up now i can still turn the 
> tuning knob and bring in statios, although i don`t know what frequency it is 
> tuned to.Right now i just have a skinny piece of white tape stuck behind the 
> dial cover to simulate a pointer.It looks pretty good for display 
> purposes.Someday i might find the pointer and it`s sub assembly and then i 
> might need the RCA stringing guide.Thanks Rick
> 
>>
> 
7BX10 is the same receiver under the covers, so to speak.  That expands, 
somewhat, your sources for a pointer.  I've got both.  Many parts are 
interchangeable.  Funny thing, people rarely part these out.  I've only 
seen a few parts sets for sale, although they do come up.  Most that get 
on eBay actually work.

If you do find a parts set, I'm still looking for a volume control knob 
(same as the tuning knob), and a latch, to make both of mine near perfect.

jak



Article: 339747 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <SyvEg.402$S_5.197@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:38:42 GMT

HobbyBox wrote:
> I'd be interested in the write-up.  I was just trying to figure out the
> best way to setup this winding jig, and not have it be to hack-ish.

As an aside, in the near future I will be set up for rewinding
transformers.

Jeff
-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339748 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:40:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

60s junk then, 60s junk now.

Not worth the energy taken to carry across the room.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339749 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dr. Dolittle" <pdo@spamblasters.not>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <YBvEg.37338$Nt2.18580@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:42:00 GMT



0junk4me@bellsouth.net wrote:
> THe first letter in JVC stands for Junk.
> 
> WHy you'd post this to newsgroups where audio production
> professionals hang is beyond me.  THIs stuff is utter crap
> pure and simple.
> Back under your rock please.
>

Uh, having a bad night Richard?



Article: 339750 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RG" <rgalbra@cogeco.ca>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net>   <D6vEg.485$sM1.228@read1.cgocable.net> <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <EFvEg.489$sM1.249@read1.cgocable.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 22:45:54 -0400

Huh .... you're joking, right ?

- RG


> SQ???
>
> Why do you have a quad unit in your VW? How do you match it to the car
> stereo? MOST of those things were like 15 w/channel rear amp with no
> good preouts to do it right in your home (unless you do some creative
> wiring)!




Article: 339751 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Solomon K. <Solomon@kane.com>
Subject: RCA 1932 Radiotron Pocket Reference Book
Message-ID: <p025e2dcnmn94amqcqe41418ten107old7@4ax.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:50:55 GMT

Posted in  alt.binaries.e-book.technical  if anyone is interested.

S.


Article: 339752 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 19:58:53 -0700
Message-ID: <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>


RG wrote:
> Huh .... you're joking, right ?
>
> - RG
>
>
> > SQ???
> >
> > Why do you have a quad unit in your VW? How do you match it to the car
> > stereo? MOST of those things were like 15 w/channel rear amp with no
> > good preouts to do it right in your home (unless you do some creative
> > wiring)!

He said "SQ", dammit. It's the only quad format I haven't got in my
young collection, although it's common as DIRT. SQ. invented by Sony,
discarded shortly and retrieved from the can by CBS. QS (Variomatrix)
invented by Sansui and the only one not tied to a company making
records, and CD-4, not a matrix but a signal with the rears stacked on
the fronts with a 30 kHz pilot to tell the unit to separate them,
needed a really good cartridge with response to maybe 50 kHz. Problem
being, while discrete, the record when damaged wouldn't work as well.

No, I was not kidding...explain your acronym. These things weren't
exactly car stereo stuff. They were for RECORDS. Tapes were discrete
and records are not a car medium.



Article: 339753 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:00:53 -0700
Message-ID: <1155697253.321063.186850@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>

Yeah, you are, but that's a good thing!



Article: 339754 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:02:03 -0700
Message-ID: <1155697323.923842.227590@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Peter Wieck wrote:
> 60s junk then, 60s junk now.
>
> Not worth the energy taken to carry across the room.
>
> Peter Wieck
> Wyncote, PA

Great for amplifying modern DVDs. I have a Pioneer QX-8000 and another
as a parts unit also.

Weren't you on junk in the sixties? I was being breast-fed for some of
it.



Article: 339755 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:02:50 -0700
Message-ID: <1155697370.803507.160560@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155473414.382083.139710@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> Yeah, you are, but that's a good thing!

Tell that to my mum!



Article: 339756 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Crosley 516 Question Again
From: Paul <nospam@all.net>
References: <Xns9820C19F89491nospamallnet@24.70.95.211> <1155693658.056965.282950@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <Xns9820D821C180Fnospamallnet@24.70.95.211>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 03:14:47 GMT

"nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net> wrote in
news:1155693658.056965.282950@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com: 

> Paul, what makes you think it is arcing inside the socket? Generally
> the large pin sockets have really good internal spacing, so that is
> not usually a problem. Poor contact between the tube pins and the
> socket clips is far more common in my experience as well as broken
> solder connections in the tube pin tips, especially if the bulb is
> loose on the base. A not common problem is the brass contact assembly
> fracturing between the pin clip and the solder tag; with the tube out,
> gently wiggle the tags and see if the clips move. If there is a break,
> just carfully solder a wire from the clip to the tag. Also, wiggling
> the tube can move components connected to the socket tags and jiggle
> an intermittant connection, although this is more common with molded
> sockets.
> 
> Neil S.
> 
> Paul wrote:
>> I finally installed the new resistors to replace the Candohm, but
>> this did not fix the Crosley's problem, so I was rechecking
>> everything again and discovered if I wiggle the 6b5 tube I get some
>> output from the speaker and was even able to hear a station for a
>> moment. This tube socket is 2 layers of bakelite, I'm guessing it's
>> arching in between the 2 layers, is there any way to repair this? or
>> would a new socket be the best bet (if you can get this type of
>> socket?) 
>>
>>
>> I did try shooting some isopropanol alcohol into it with no sucess
>> 
>> 
>> Paul
> 
> 

Hi Neil 

I'm not positive it is a short, but I have cleaned the contacts tightened 
them, which diden't solve the problem. In fact when the contacts are tight
and you can't wiggle the tube as much I get no static , just a hum, but if 
I losen
the contacts abit, I can wiggle the tube back and forth more and are able 
to get static. So I thought maybe there is a short or bad connection in the 
socket, although they all check out with an ohm meter.
I will try your suggestion about tags and tube it's self.

Thanks 

Paul


Article: 339757 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "gerryu21220@gmail.com" <gerryu21220@gmail.com>
Subject: Knob Dilemma
Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:18:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1155698294.055088.25220@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>

Ok - long story short:  Pulled the amp and speaker from a GE RP1120
Phono, and removed the panel they were mounted to (all in one unit, so
it can easily be returned to it's original state).  Installed a new
front panel, and installed the amp and speaker pulled from a Newcomb
school phono.  The amp is a little long, and overlaps the edge of the
speaker slightly.  Doesn't allow the amp to come in full contact with
the front panel, and so the pot shafts are only just flush with the
panel, rather than sticking through the holes.  The pot shafts are
about 1/2 inch long, split knurled type.  The original knobs for that
amp won't work - they would need shafts on the bottom sides that reach
into the holes in the panel to make contact with the pot shafts.  I've
got several old knobs lying about with shafts, but none are for knurled
pot shafts - they're all for the D-shaped shafts.  A Google search
turned up only knurled mounting knobs that would be surface mount.
None had a shaft that reaches into the hole.  Is there a way to extend
the pot shafts, or a sleeve to convert them to the D-shaped shaft?
Suggestions?

Gerry



Article: 339758 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "HobbyBox" <hobby.box@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 15 Aug 2006 20:34:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on
end and stationary.  I would have thought you would want it to be
rotating, as well... other than the potential to overrun when the
coiling is stopped.  Won't the wire get bound up on that upper flange?

And your comment about mics.. err... mikes.... is duly noted :)   That
will probably stick with me for life now.

Thanks.  Getting closer to getting this thing set up.
-Nate

Alan Douglas wrote:
> Hi,
>
> > It was reading around .009", which
> >lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG,
>
>    You need to know exactly. An error of one wire size will lead to a
> large error in turns and resistance. 50% error wouldn't surprise me.
> You don't need to count turns, but  they will affect the magnetic
> field strength of the completed speaker.
>
>    And do follow Neil's advice on the supply spool, which sits on end,
> stationary, with the wire being taken off over the upper flange.
>
>    Finally a small rant.  A micrometer caliper, a microphone, or a
> Michael, are all mike.  Not mic.  You don't say Mic rode his bic on
> the turnpic.
> 
> Alan



Article: 339759 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 23:58:48 -0400
Message-ID: <12e56014gupqp76@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


"HobbyBox" <hobby.box@gmail.com> wrote in message 
news:1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on
> end and stationary.  I would have thought you would want it to be
> rotating, as well... other than the potential to overrun when the
> coiling is stopped.  Won't the wire get bound up on that upper flange?

No, it pours magically and smoothly off the end. If the supply spool rotates 
too, this just ads much more opportunity for breakage, which is already a 
big problem.

John H. 




Article: 339760 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RG" <rgalbra@cogeco.ca>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net>   <D6vEg.485$sM1.228@read1.cgocable.net>   <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <EFvEg.489$sM1.249@read1.cgocable.net> <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <r%wEg.493$sM1.34@read1.cgocable.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:17:26 -0400

In car audio "SQ" is the acronym for "sound quality".

I think you just misunderstood it for something else.

- RG


"Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message 
news:1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> RG wrote:
>> Huh .... you're joking, right ?
>>
>> - RG
>>
>>
>> > SQ???
>> >
>> > Why do you have a quad unit in your VW? How do you match it to the car
>> > stereo? MOST of those things were like 15 w/channel rear amp with no
>> > good preouts to do it right in your home (unless you do some creative
>> > wiring)!
>
> He said "SQ", dammit. It's the only quad format I haven't got in my
> young collection, although it's common as DIRT. SQ. invented by Sony,
> discarded shortly and retrieved from the can by CBS. QS (Variomatrix)
> invented by Sansui and the only one not tied to a company making
> records, and CD-4, not a matrix but a signal with the rears stacked on
> the fronts with a 30 kHz pilot to tell the unit to separate them,
> needed a really good cartridge with response to maybe 50 kHz. Problem
> being, while discrete, the record when damaged wouldn't work as well.
>
> No, I was not kidding...explain your acronym. These things weren't
> exactly car stereo stuff. They were for RECORDS. Tapes were discrete
> and records are not a car medium.
> 




Article: 339761 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:21:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1155702101.066535.303580@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>


MarkS wrote:
> Hi All,
> I'm trying to find two knobs for my latest find, a gold round dial 4585
> Silvertone floor radio. These knobs actually have their functions written on
> them. I am missing the volume & tone knobs, I have the band, tuning and
> selectivity (cool feature). I got this radio for a reasonable price on
> ebay...it wasn't in the collectible or consumer electronics sections, it was
> in the antique section; my wife found it! Might want to look there once in
> awhile. Considering what these Silvertone round dial radios go for these
> days, I think I did pretty well. The vendor even delivered it to me blanket
> wrapped for $50 from Maine, I live in NJ. The radio is in excellent
> condition. All original tubes with their Silvertone labels except the 5Y3.
> The original 6G5 even lights up bright. Knowing my luck, the radio is cheap
> but the knobs are priceless!! Anyone know of a source for the flanged rubber
> gromments used to isolate the chassis from the cabinet?
> Thanks,
> MarkS

No, I don't think the radio will be cheap : ) There have been many
discussions about using silicone or other sealant materials and making
a mold so you can slice it and put a hole in it yourself, but as for
dyeing it or painting it the right color???

Someone who's not ready for bed will chime in with a reference soon,
and nice find!



Article: 339762 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:23:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>


RG wrote:
> In car audio "SQ" is the acronym for "sound quality".
>
> I think you just misunderstood it for something else.
>
> - RG
>
>
> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message
> news:1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > RG wrote:
> >> Huh .... you're joking, right ?
> >>
> >> - RG

Probably because I don't drive anymore but I always used and fixed up
1980s Delcos.



Article: 339763 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "AuroraOldRadios" <menwagoh@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Philco 610
Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:34:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1155702865.396238.300850@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155610189.034416.261290@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


pgonshor@aol.com wrote:
> Working on a Philco 610.  5 tube circuit (predessor of the AA5 I
> guess).  3 bands.  Great performance.  Nothing beats good coils.
> Trouble is, coils didn't sell radios, tube count did.  I've had sets
> like this that performed better than 9 tube radios.  Comments?
> Dave
There are a lot of variables. The Philco 610/37-610/38-10 series seems
to perform quite well. However, I've had different examples of 5/6
tubes Zeniths that varied greatly in performance. Some were only fair,
others exceptional. My 6S128 and others with the same chassis like
6S152 have been fair to good but never exceptional. I don't think
quality control of assembly or parts was that good. In some cases the
additional tubes of 9/10/11/12 tubers were fluff that added little or
nothing to the tuner section. In others, there were 3 or 4 gang tuners,
separate osc. tube, better mixer tube, better quality coils with
complete adjustment, etc. Preselector sections on the tuner were common
on 1934/35/36 and then almost never seen after that. Maybe Philco
decided that better coils with better performance were worth the extra
couple of pennies per chassis. If you have a 620 you could compare
their performance. 620 should be better with a tuned RF stage.
Theoretically...



Article: 339764 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Scott W. Harvey" <NOT_MY_REAL@email.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:19:45 -0700
Message-ID: <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

Peter Wieck wrote:
> 60s junk then, 60s junk now.
> 
More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very 
much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so 
it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more 
conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood.

As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific 
rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where 
USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard 
a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any 
US no-name manufacturer could produce.

The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but 
when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless. 
The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker 
elements for other manufacturers.

-Scott


Article: 339765 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Scott W. Harvey" <NOT_MY_REAL@email.com>
Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 21:29:30 -0700
Message-ID: <ebu6rs0tie@news4.newsguy.com>
References: <1155656656.954892.293910@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <--qdnfqBHO1xaXzZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com>

Mark Oppat wrote:
> my guess is this is an export only model.  In the 30's RCA used the model
> code Q to designate such sets,  there might have been a code for GE sets
> too.
> 
> do you own it?  No lable inside at all?  Or, underneath?
> 
> its definitely 40's era, probably late 40's and it has a ballast only
> because its an export set.  That way they could put different ballasts
> depending on the local voltage.
> 

Almost definitely an export model. The Longwave band and zillions of 
european cities on the dial is a dead giveaway.

For the owner's sake, I hope it is easier to find a schematic for than 
the Zenith export-only sets. Those seem to exist not at all.

-Scott



Article: 339766 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RG" <rgalbra@cogeco.ca>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net>   <D6vEg.485$sM1.228@read1.cgocable.net>   <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <EFvEg.489$sM1.249@read1.cgocable.net>   <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <r%wEg.493$sM1.34@read1.cgocable.net> <1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <7xxEg.495$sM1.323@read1.cgocable.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:53:20 -0400

Speaking of Delcos, I remember the Delcos and such from the '60's. Those 
things were huge. Automotive art, some of them. Some of the early '60's ones 
still had tubes in them if I remember correctly. My dad's '67 Ford Galaxy 
had something similar to the Delcos. It even had an aftermarket 8 track 
bolted under the dash. State of the art back in the day ....

- RG


"Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message 
news:1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> RG wrote:
>> In car audio "SQ" is the acronym for "sound quality".
>>
>> I think you just misunderstood it for something else.
>>
>> - RG
>>
>>
>> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message
>> news:1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>> >
>> > RG wrote:
>> >> Huh .... you're joking, right ?
>> >>
>> >> - RG
>
> Probably because I don't drive anymore but I always used and fixed up
> 1980s Delcos.
> 




Article: 339767 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:57:55 -0700
Message-ID: <1155704275.273364.93700@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

My mother doesn't like the idea of me starting a collection either.



Article: 339768 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 21:58:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1155704291.753251.130140@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

My mother doesn't like the idea of me starting a collection either.



Article: 339769 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <EaCdnfZeoPnEgXzZnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@comcast.com> <FW9Eg.14544$qd.266@bignews3.bellsouth.net> <nOlEg.15147$0k4.7315@bignews1.bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <aMxEg.10942$Z1.7062@trnddc03>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 05:09:26 GMT

jakdedert wrote:
> ken scharf wrote:
> 
>> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>
>>>> Well, since it's already a diode, just run it on AC, and it'll 
>>>> "flicker"
>>>> at 60 cps, "on" for part of a half cycle and off for over a half cycle.
>>>> Whereas a neon on 60 cycles turns "on" at the peak of every half
>>>> cycle (ie, it flickers 120 times a second).
>>>
>>> Then use a full-wave rectifier to drive the LEDs.
>>>
>>> Actually, a neon bulb comes on when theres about 60V to 70V across 
>>> it. The
>>> series resistor keeps it from being damaged. <heh-heh>
>>>
>>>
>> Actually what's wrong with just using a neon bulb?
>> NE-2's are cheap and easy to find.  You can build a dc-ac inverter
>> to get the needed 90v from a 5-12v supply.
>>
> ...at which point it becomes cheaper (and more reliable) to use an LED.
> 
> jak
> 


Sometimes there's just no substitute for the authentic neon glow. I 
always use neon bulbs as indicators in the nixie tube clocks I build, of 
course at that point I already have a suitable HV source. For a couple 
neon lamps though the power source is far less critical, ready made 
inverters can be had for free from disposable camera flashes or made 
with a simple oscillator.


Article: 339770 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 22:03:48 -0700
Message-ID: <bo95e21smt1i89nftfceimtbm5r374da7n@4ax.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <asu3e29shg5f9jng1f94cde6l3d305p278@4ax.com> <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

On 15 Aug 2006 15:09:08 -0700, "AB9GO" <randallr@healthall.com> wrote:

>Yep.  Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups.  The nice thing
>is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!!  Few if any
>"Made in Japan"  speakers from that era are worth much of anything. <snip>

..and sound like absolute crap.  I've NEVER heard a good loudspeaker
that was made in Asia anywhere.  Tin ears over there, and tons and
tons of "by rote" engineers.


From NSI Thu Aug 17 01:52:52 EDT 2006
Article: 339771 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "NSI" <af.irani@afyhpami.com>
Subject: Add money to your Paypal account with OPRAH '';Pi
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Sender: NSI <af.irani@afyhpami.com>
Reply-To: NSI
X-Priority: 3
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NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 02:05:17 EDT
Organization: BellSouth Internet Group
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 17:52:43 -0500
Path: news.unc.edu!elk.ncren.net!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!newsfeed.cwix.com!news.xnet.com!nntp-out.monmouth.com!newspeer.monmouth.com!newsfeed2.telusplanet.net!newsfeed.telus.net!bigfeed3.bellsouth.net!bigfeed.bellsouth.net!bignumber.bellsouth.net!news.bellsouth.net!bignews5.bellsouth.net.POSTED!f1ea88ee!not-for-mail
Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339771

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w)O>+;)<9UVS;F>qaGL<Uq#v`V6(F]- rM;$g+!4IIQ*827?H4


Article: 339772 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 15 Aug 2006 23:18:29 -0700
Message-ID: <1155709109.417512.219610@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155475357.002844.219100@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> My mother doesn't like the idea of me starting a collection either.

It's not a collection in my case. It's a small pile : ) Show her what
you learn and how it can make you a better worker with any skills you
learn. Or just impress the girls that you are "handy". John Goller
actually found one as handy as he was : ) But what I mean is involve
your mother in small ways that show her you do something worthwhile,
not just gather a pile of spendy, dusty sets. Mothers don't seem to be
impressed by radios unless they had one they favored, and my mom
doesn't fathom that the pile kept me going all last winter by my fixing
and selling/trading things (solid state but it's true).

Something kept my head above water at least.



Article: 339773 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <anaconda789@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 16 Aug 2006 00:19:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1155712755.544324.98030@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155589060.280485.132140@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Gotten rid of that Calstan.  I don't like transistor sets.  I'm keeping
tabs on a valve radio on eBay, that 'Operatic' set I linked to.  My
mother isn't interested in radios and never will be.  Me and my uncle
are the only ones who are.



Article: 339774 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "JOHN D" <jawnd393one@yahoo.com>
References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:33:49 GMT


My computer won't connect to www.dialcover.com
 Is there a problem with the site or is it just me?




Article: 339775 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Graywolf" <graywolf@nospam.org>
References: <FW9Eg.14544$qd.266@bignews3.bellsouth.net> <8942-44E277AF-376@storefull-3172.bay.webtv.net> <NrvEg.15992$qd.15138@bignews3.bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Message-ID: <DFBEg.2325$V51.1980@newsfe06.lga>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 05:35:28 -0400

"ken scharf" <wa2mzeNOSPAMBOTS@bellsouth.net> wrote in message 
news:NrvEg.15992$qd.15138@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
> Bill Sheppard wrote:
> Hmmm, guess the made in China bulbs don't have quite as much Neon in
> them as the old ones or the glass is thinner...
> You know when a neon bulb has reached the end of life when it won't
> light in the dark, but does in the daytime.  I have a few
> neon night lights that used to work in the dark, but now just flicker a
> bit.

Old Neon lamps had a trace of radioactivity in the electrodes to help 
ionize the gas.  In most modern Neon bulbs, this is no longer present. 
Light does the same thing as the radiation, it helps ionize the gas and 
hence a lower voltage can fire the lamp.

73,  Barry  WA4VZQ  WA4VZQ@ARRL.NET




Article: 339776 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 03:09:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1155722955.914109.207010@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>


JOHN D wrote:
> My computer won't connect to www.dialcover.com
>  Is there a problem with the site or is it just me?

One cute girl and her knee stockings (hubba) coming up!

YEAH IT'S YOU



Article: 339777 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 16 Aug 2006 03:18:37 -0700
Message-ID: <1155723517.659017.185560@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155593320.358871.166770@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> Gotten rid of that Calstan.  I don't like transistor sets.  I'm keeping
> tabs on a valve radio on eBay, that 'Operatic' set I linked to.  My
> mother isn't interested in radios and never will be.  Me and my uncle
> are the only ones who are.



Article: 339778 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 03:20:05 -0700
Message-ID: <1155723605.508818.267820@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>


JOHN D wrote:
> My computer won't connect to www.dialcover.com
>  Is there a problem with the site or is it just me?

One cute girl and her knee stockings (hubba) coming up!

YEAH IT'S YOU



Article: 339779 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 03:20:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1155723640.682089.195780@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <24530-44E1FB53-883@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>


JOHN D wrote:
> My computer won't connect to www.dialcover.com
>  Is there a problem with the site or is it just me?

One cute girl and her knee stockings (hubba) coming up!

YEAH IT'S YOU



Article: 339780 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "duty-honor-country" <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:24:47 -0700
Message-ID: <1155727487.622901.70480@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


AB9GO wrote:
> Yep.  Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups.  The nice thing
> is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!!  Few if any
> "Made in Japan"  speakers from that era are worth much of anything.


You leave out I paid $50 for the speakers and the Kenwood amp- and sold
the amp for $100



Article: 339781 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "duty-honor-country" <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:26:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1155727585.186704.178400@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


RG wrote:
> That may true to a certain extent, but not in the all encompassing sense
> that you stated. I can think of more than a "few" made in Japan speakers
> from that era that are highly sought after, and for good reason. In fact, I
> have a pair of mint Yamaha NS-690II's that are completely at odds with your
> statement. Newer is NOT always better. The JVC's I do not know about. I have
> never listened to them. But that is the point, unless you have actually
> listened to them, broad brush stements such as the one you made are just
> opinions based on (probably) heresay and nothing more. Of course, this has
> nothing to do with the intent of Nudo's post but I thought I would offer an
> opposing opinion to the one in your statement .. just for the record.


good post- 

for the record, older speakers have superior cabinets



Article: 339782 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "duty-honor-country" <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:27:10 -0700
Message-ID: <1155727630.505425.169340@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


DeserTBoB wrote:
> On 15 Aug 2006 15:09:08 -0700, "AB9GO" <randallr@healthall.com> wrote:
>
> >Yep.  Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups.  The nice thing
> >is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!!  Few if any
> >"Made in Japan"  speakers from that era are worth much of anything. <snip>
>
> ..and sound like absolute crap.  I've NEVER heard a good loudspeaker
> that was made in Asia anywhere.  Tin ears over there, and tons and
> tons of "by rote" engineers.


yet you drive a 1970's Honda car today...and rave about it



Article: 339783 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "duty-honor-country" <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:29:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1155727748.375678.195090@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>


RG wrote:
> Why is that ?
>
> I have a JVC KD-SH9750 HU in my GTI that I would not dream of replacing. It
> is by far the best sounding HU I have ever had ... and I have had most of
> the top of the line HU's at one time or another. In fact, I have top of the
> line Alpines sitting on the shelf right now because they just can't touch
> this JVC in SQ (and I have tried them). So is your statement general in
> nature or aimed at specific offerings from JVC ?
>
> - RG


good post- I rest my case- these guys knock stuff they never heard
before- signs of a small mind



Article: 339784 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:31:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1155727901.317216.212470@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> Peter Wieck wrote:
> > 60s junk then, 60s junk now.
> >
> More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very
> much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so
> it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more
> conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood.
>
> As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific
> rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where
> USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard
> a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any
> US no-name manufacturer could produce.
>
> The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but
> when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless.
> The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker
> elements for other manufacturers.
>
> -Scott

This is going to be a playground fight before too long. Let the recess
monitor handle it, I'm going back to the library.



Article: 339785 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 04:33:04 -0700
Message-ID: <1155727984.323093.206180@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Steven wrote:
> Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> > Peter Wieck wrote:
> > > 60s junk then, 60s junk now.
> > >
> > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very
> > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so
> > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more
> > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood.
> >
> > As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific
> > rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where
> > USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard
> > a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any
> > US no-name manufacturer could produce.
> >
> > The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but
> > when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless.
> > The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker
> > elements for other manufacturers.
> >
> > -Scott
>
> This is going to be a playground fight before too long. Let the recess
> monitor handle it, I'm going back to the library.

At least my Lycos email server is apparently down, so I won't have to
block any spam for a while...



Article: 339786 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:42:53 -0400
Message-ID: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com>

I finally figured out there's not enough room in my van to camp AND bring 
down enough stuff next month to Kutztown. So I'm planning on staying at 
friends near Cooperstown or a motel and filling her right up. Here's an 
early list of what's will be available. As my collecting focus has sharpened 
I'm doing a major trimming of backstock. The list posted here will of course 
never be complete as I'll throw in more as I pack.

The following will be or are recapped and restored and fair retail price-

Zenith 770, 75 consoles
Philco 16B cathedral
Philco 116 tombstone
Silvertone model 1942 tombstone

(the last 3 can be seen on my site http://home.att.net/~yonny)


The rest are in excellent to good condition generally and unrestored, quite 
reasonable-

Philco 41-300, 89 consoles
Westinghouse WR330 console
GE "Locomotive" TV
GE M-61 tombstone
Lafayette table set (SW/AM wood sliderule)


Pair Victor VV-4-3 phonos, crank and electric (fixer ups, both work)
Edison C-150 phono (decent, working)

I also have a rough but complete Edison H-19 if anyone had interest 
otherwise that one will be refinished for next year or keeping.
Contact me if you have specific interests in any of the above. Thanks.

John H.












Article: 339787 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Bill Jeffrey <wjeffrey@TAKE-THIS-OUTalum.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com> <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <QyDEg.22934$8j3.19643@twister.nyroc.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:44:48 GMT

HobbyBox wrote:

> I'd be interested in the write-up.  I was just trying to figure out
> the best way to setup this winding jig, and not have it be to
> hack-ish.

> Bill Jeffrey wrote:
> 
>> Yup, I did a G-3 a while back.  I could probably find the writeup
>> if anyone cares.

Posted on the binaries (ABPR) - about 45KB.  I can't figure out where I 
posted it - I thought it was NostalgiaAir - but I can't find it, so this 
is the original.

Bill


Article: 339788 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <asu3e29shg5f9jng1f94cde6l3d305p278@4ax.com>   <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <bo95e21smt1i89nftfceimtbm5r374da7n@4ax.com> <1155727630.505425.169340@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 05:01:21 -0700
Message-ID: <x_udnRNEybqRlH7ZnZ2dnUVZ_qmdnZ2d@comcast.com>

> ...and sound like absolute crap. I've NEVER heard a good loudspeaker
> that was made in Asia anywhere. Tin ears over there, and tons and
> tons of "by rote" engineers.

STAX made some wonderful electrostatic speakers. But, given halfway-decent
engineering, it's hard to make a bad electrostatic.

The Japanese speakers of that era struck me as having timbral colorations
reminiscent of Japanese musical instruments. Whether this was intentional
(to exaggerate the particular qualities of instruments) or accidental
(because the instrumental sound masked such colorations), I don't know.




Article: 339789 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "the MAGNATE" <analog@epix.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:11:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1155730306.576586.197200@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


AB9GO wrote:
> Yep.  Crossposed this message to 9 other news groups.  The nice thing
> is that they are worth no more than he paid for them!!!!  Few if any
> "Made in Japan"  speakers from that era are worth much of anything.


correction- DESERTBOOB crossposted it to 9 groups- not me- look for
yourself.



Article: 339790 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <thethirties@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:13:16 -0700
Message-ID: <1155730396.451685.156290@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155593320.358871.166770@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

A lot of people reply to messages like you just did.  What's the point
of it?  I have always been confused by that?  Oh by the way, I have
changed my email address, so it is me, not an imposter.  Too much spam
in the other one.



Article: 339791 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave.H" <thethirties@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:18:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1155730722.755059.225400@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155616831.353609.131240@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

I tried to bid on an excellent Bush brand Bakelite radio from the
1930's or '40's, but missed it by just one minute.  Damn.  The only
cosmetic problem was a large crack on the bottom, but that I could have
fixed. Oh well, that's life I guess.  If I win the bid on the
'Operatic' radio, I will take pictures, and post them on to Flickr, to
show of my first tube radio.  May even attempt to restore it.



Article: 339792 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mike Koste" <michael.koste@zurichna.com>
Subject: Re: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:19:36 -0700
Message-ID: <1155730776.066379.194020@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com>

Haven't added any new major stock in over a year, so if anyone has
radio knobs in bulk they'd like to unload, by all means bring them
along. And if you need a particular knob, pack a sample: Makes it a lot
easier to find than a verbal description. ("Well, it's round and about
this big....")


Mike Koste
Gobs of Knobs
Ambler, PA



Article: 339793 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:10:54 -0500
Message-ID: <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08>

FIRST COMPLAINT 


CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com
Bill Turner, excuse  caps, short answers, stroke.
Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide.  






Article: 339794 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Blackened Transistors
Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:26:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1155731200.243899.136830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155616831.353609.131240@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Dave.H wrote:
> A lot of people reply to messages like you just did.  What's the point
> of it?  I have always been confused by that?  Oh by the way, I have
> changed my email address, so it is me, not an imposter.  Too much spam
> in the other one.

Google has quirks and if it's 4 am in Oregon, probably not the best
thing to work through.

I tried to post something and their server got cranky because I use the
F5 (refresh) key impatiently. It is stupid and thinks I am a spammer,
so it makes me type in a trick word to prove I'm human, then it doesn't
post anyway and gives me a blank reply form--GRRR! I went back through
the browser history (cache) and swore I found it, didn't copy the text
and ended up sending that to boot. On top of that I found the send page
for another post and ended up resending it a couple times...

On top of that my email server for the account you see had problems all
night (still a bit slow).

I harbor no malice. Google? I don't know. Just hang in there. My friend
in Melbourne is in the middle of his afternoon somewhere towards the
middle of my night. A little time difference. If you get fairly instant
answers from me it likely means I'm up too much, oh well.



Article: 339795 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 05:41:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1155732116.792934.191540@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08>


Bill Turner wrote:
> FIRST COMPLAINT
>
>
> CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com
> Bill Turner, excuse  caps, short answers, stroke.
> Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide.

I explained it to Dave H. that I was looking for a certain page in
History for my IE browser and it fired off two more sends without my
approval. Google's fault as it was their code. I'm gonna tear this
thing down and put a bigger C: in soon anyway so I don't use a 3 GB
drive that tells me it's almost full a lot after some time. I've got a
13.5 and a 40 GB and an IDE ATA-100 so can add a DVD drive too.

But I'm tired and Lycos' email server was bummed out all night. I've
got to find a yard sale and sell stuff PDQ and I need to get one more
receiver ready AND SLEEP.

I use F5 too much and when Google makes me fill in a Captcha, it still
gives me a blank form, hence all the fun. They don't bother Nudo and
Nudo II, mind you. Google must be full of Yahoos!



Article: 339796 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:50:43 -0500
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
From: John Stone <jmsent2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C1087ED3.53776%jmsent2@comcast.net>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <asu3e29shg5f9jng1f94cde6l3d305p278@4ax.com> <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <h1vEg.484$sM1.127@read1.cgocable.net>




On 8/15/06 9:02 PM, in article h1vEg.484$sM1.127@read1.cgocable.net, "RG"
<rgalbra@cogeco.ca> wrote:

> That may true to a certain extent, but not in the all encompassing sense
> that you stated. I can think of more than a "few" made in Japan speakers
> from that era that are highly sought after, and for good reason. In fact, I
> have a pair of mint Yamaha NS-690II's that are completely at odds with your
> statement. 
Well, I'd like to know what they are, other than a few Yamahas like the
NS1000 that stood out at the time. BTW, a number of well reviewed Yamaha
speakers weren't designed or built in Japan. They used European drivers and
were built in the USA.


>Newer is NOT always better.
In fact, where loudspeakers are concerned-at least reputable ones-newer IS
nearly always better. Newer may not always be sonically preferred, but that
is another issue. The fact is that loudspeaker design has advanced
dramatically in the past 15-20 years. Part of this is due to advancement in
materials, but the big change is in the ability to use CAD and FEA programs
for simulation of cones, motor structures, cabinet design, and crossover
topology. Prior to this, all of these areas came down to "cut and try". It
was hard enough back then to just get reasonable frequency response, much
less low distortion or good dispersion.  Just run a frequency response sweep
between a 1970's design and a good modern speaker. You'll see a big
difference. 



> The JVC's I do not know about. I have
> never listened to them.

I have. They're awful. Just look at the configuration of the drivers.
There's no acoustical design expertise at all to these.





Article: 339797 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Lyndell Scott" <lfscott@flash.net>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:04:37 GMT

BILL,
IF YOU INTERPRETED MY COMMENTS AS A COMPLAINT, THEN I APPOLOGIZE. I DID NOT 
MEAN IT THAT WAY AT ALL AND WILL FOLLOW YOUR INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY THE 
NEXT TIME I MAKE A DIAL COVER. I MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR WILLINGNESS TO SHARE 
YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH OTHERS.
-- 

Lyndell Scott
Audio Antiques
http://geocities.com/lfscott@flash.net 




Article: 339798 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
From: 0junk4me@bellsouth.net
References: <YBvEg.37338$Nt2.18580@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:15:48 GMT


On 2006-08-16 1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net said:
   >0junk4me@bellsouth.net wrote:
   >> THe first letter in JVC stands for Junk.
   >> WHy you'd post this to newsgroups where audio production
   >> professionals hang is beyond me.  THIs stuff is utter crap
   >> pure and simple.
   >> Back under your rock please.
   >Uh, having a bad night Richard?
NOted this same poster posted in alt.audio.pro.live-sound,
where I can't see any relevance whatsoever to this consumer
junk.

NEver found JVC components anywhere that I liked.  NEver
really experienced their autosound stuff, I don't do
aftermarket car audio.  IF it's too loud to hear the engine
running it doesn't play in any vehicle I own as listening to
the engine gives me first hints of real trouble down the
road.

NOw back to JVC home audio components:  GUitar player I
worked with brought a JVC cassette deck over for me to use
for dubbing from half track to cassette many years ago.
EVerything played back or recorded on that deck sounded like
pure mud, but it had a lot of fancy features and faceplate
looked cool.  My old venerable Pioneer 9191 had died after
many years of faithful service.  Bought another Sharp, it
performed well, sounded much better than the JVC.

friend of mine had a JVC receiver.  NOT well built, anemic
amplifier, and was supposed to be well matched with the JVC
speakers he bought too.

OToh I had a Sansui integrated receiver amp which was built
like a tank.  uSEd it for years, a lightning strike finally
finished it off after a decade of good service cranking out
rock 'n roll for hours at a time.  IIRC specs were like 100
watts into an 8 ohm load.  THat bad boy cooked until the
lightning got it.

Just never liked their stuff, and don't think I ever saw any
JVC gear in a pro live sound rig, or in any studio I've been
in either.




Richard webb,
Electric Spider Productions
Replace anything before the @ symbol with elspider for real
email address.



"In some hands, all the knobs are suck knobs." -- Jay Kadis


Article: 339799 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "m82a1pa" <mldenison@suscom.net>
Subject: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block
Date: 16 Aug 2006 06:38:52 -0700
Message-ID: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

Folks - I need a bakelite block for cosmetically restoring a Philco
551.  I could use the 3615-C or 3615-AS (later replacement).  It'd be
nice to get the long screw and washer for it as well.  Let me know if
you have one and the shipped price to 17402.  TIA



Article: 339800 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:39:58 -0600
Message-ID: <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net>
References: <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com>

Actually i go without till i have to have one then i make it . Cutting
out the wood and getting it perfect is the hardest or longest part . I
do not use the oven . It causes bubbles in the plastic .  



Article: 339801 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mike Koste" <michael.koste@zurichna.com>
Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 06:59:36 -0700
Message-ID: <1155736776.102507.84460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>

Mark: Come see me at Kutztown. I probably have the knobs you need.

Mike Koste
Gobs of Knobs
Ambler, PA



Article: 339802 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:51:42 -0600
Message-ID: <6322-44E322EE-8@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net>

I bet all restored with a good color better knobs and a great looking
big decal on the front would make that pig look real neet .  



Article: 339803 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:19:09 GMT


"Lyndell Scott" <lfscott@flash.net> wrote in message 
news:FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
> BILL,
> IF YOU INTERPRETED MY COMMENTS AS A COMPLAINT, THEN I APPOLOGIZE. I DID NOT MEAN IT 
> THAT WAY AT ALL AND WILL FOLLOW YOUR INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY THE NEXT TIME I MAKE A 
> DIAL COVER. I MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR WILLINGNESS TO SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH OTHERS.



I don't think Bill was responding to you Lyndell.

If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to "JOHN D" who 
reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website.  Apparently JOHN D is 
the first to report any problem opening the site to Bill.  FWIW, the site opens fine 
for me.

jim menning 




Article: 339804 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <EaCdnfZeoPnEgXzZnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@comcast.com> <FW9Eg.14544$qd.266@bignews3.bellsouth.net> <nOlEg.15147$0k4.7315@bignews1.bellsouth.net> <aMxEg.10942$Z1.7062@trnddc03>
Message-ID: <%QFEg.17237$Nx4.5884@bignews8.bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:22:02 -0500

James Sweet wrote:
<snip>
>>> Actually what's wrong with just using a neon bulb?
>>> NE-2's are cheap and easy to find.  You can build a dc-ac inverter
>>> to get the needed 90v from a 5-12v supply.
>>>
>> ...at which point it becomes cheaper (and more reliable) to use an LED.
>>
>> jak
>>
> 
> 
> Sometimes there's just no substitute for the authentic neon glow. I 
> always use neon bulbs as indicators in the nixie tube clocks I build, of 
> course at that point I already have a suitable HV source. For a couple 
> neon lamps though the power source is far less critical, ready made 
> inverters can be had for free from disposable camera flashes or made 
> with a simple oscillator.
> 
There's still the reliability factor, but good idea on salvaging camera 
flashes....



Article: 339805 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:30:20 -0500

HobbyBox wrote:
> Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on
> end and stationary.  I would have thought you would want it to be
> rotating, as well... other than the potential to overrun when the
> coiling is stopped.  Won't the wire get bound up on that upper flange?

Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be 
mandatory.  Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken 
off the spool.  That would eventually make an enormous mess.

> And your comment about mics.. err... mikes.... is duly noted :)   That
> will probably stick with me for life now.
> 
> Thanks.  Getting closer to getting this thing set up.
> -Nate
> 
> Alan Douglas wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>>> It was reading around .009", which
>>> lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG,
>>    You need to know exactly. An error of one wire size will lead to a
>> large error in turns and resistance. 50% error wouldn't surprise me.
>> You don't need to count turns, but  they will affect the magnetic
>> field strength of the completed speaker.
>>
>>    And do follow Neil's advice on the supply spool, which sits on end,
>> stationary, with the wire being taken off over the upper flange.
>>
>>    Finally a small rant.  A micrometer caliper, a microphone, or a
>> Michael, are all mike.  Not mic.  You don't say Mic rode his bic on
>> the turnpic.

Sorry, microphones are 'mics' according to those who use and write about 
them regularly.  You can rant all you want, but that's pretty much the 
way it is.  Mike doesn't care...
>>
>> Alan
> 
> 



Article: 339806 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Terry S" <tschw10117@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios
Date: 16 Aug 2006 07:40:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1155739202.552432.236390@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Jiri,

I'd like to see photos of your find... as I'm interested in wire
radios.

Actual nixie tubes? Made in the 90's? Another are of interest for me.

Terry.


Jiri Placek wrote:
> That was a topic here some time ago.  I just returned from Europe with
> a sophisticated soviet three-channel receiver ALTAIR PT-204 that was
> apparently made in 1990's.  It is a 220 V unit that received 30 V,
> two-wire signal.  It was made after 1988 as there is a reference to the
> standard GOST18286-88. It consists of two units - one is digital alarm
> clock with a nixie display and the other one amplified wire radio
> receiver for three programs.  I suspect that two of those three audio
> signals were at the distribution station heterodyned to ultrasonic
> frequencies and then converted back to audio signal in the receiver.
> There are three knobs on the back side that appear to be tunable traps,
> perhaps for harmonic frequencies.
>
> It is amazing that such wire radio was made even in 1990's when there
> was already a good FM signal coverage and people were not driven nuts
> by AM interference that eventually lead them to wire radio.
>
> Another amazing detail are the plugs that are of the same desing for
> both 220 V power and for the 30 V audio signal.  I wonder how many
> units were fried....
>
> I tried to find some info on either the technical standard for this
> multi-signal system or schematics of the radio itself but I have failed
> so far.  I will appreciate any lead.
> 
> Jiri Placek
> Boyertown, PA



Article: 339807 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com>
Message-ID: <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 09:42:34 -0500

Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> Peter Wieck wrote:
>> 60s junk then, 60s junk now.
>>
> More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very 
> much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so 
> it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more 
> conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood.
> 
OTOH, when Pioneer wanted a killer speaker, they hired away JBL's chief 
designer to come up with the HPM series...flagship offering being the 
HPM 100.  This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the 
JBL L-100's (designed by the same fellow), which were among the most 
popular speakers of the time.  I've got a pair of these and they're 
brilliant.  The cab's are nearly 1 1/2" thick, generously braced 
internally; carbon fiber woofers...kick serious butt at all volumes. 
Each speaker weighs in at around 60 lbs. and listed for something like 
$800 a pair in 1977 dollars.

As the decade closed, they began to use cheaper materials and cheapen 
the design...becoming more like the Japanese speakers you describe.  The 
later HPM series were not the same.

jak



Article: 339808 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Dave McClellan" <dave@mcclellans.com>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Message-ID: <uoGEg.63$M75.28@newsfe06.lga>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 10:58:07 -0400

If you decide to strip and repaint, try this FIRST.  My Tradio (TU-6 IIRC)
was also painted some God awful color.  For some reason I started cleaning
it off with lacquer thinner.  It not only removed the paint, but the
original baked on finish was not affected, and EVEN THE TRADIO DECAL was
unaffected!  Mine was the same shape as yours, but had a 6-tube chassis with
untuned RF amp.  It had two white knobs, both right below the dial scale.
As others have said, these were made by different companies and had
different chassis.

Does yours have the back, lock (and key) and coin mechanism intact?

Dave
"Syl" <personne@perdu.com> wrote in message
news:vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net...
> No model, brand or label anywhere.
>
> Steel cabinet.
>
> There is something handwritten on the speaker OPT, "watterson".
> Hard to tell if it bears any relation to the radio. Simple octal AA5 using
a
> field coil speaker with the number 700 stamped on the back.
> Reminds me of an Emerson speaker or a Philco.
>
> http://www.oldradioz.com/temp/coin_radio.jpg
>
> Any help IDing the model and/or actual manufacturer would be welcome.
>
> Syl
> P.S. I did search Watterson, but nothing about coin operated radios.
>
>




Article: 339809 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:43:25 -0700
Message-ID: <dnb6e2538e01ckv4fskpgro7sjvkojsn9i@4ax.com>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net>   <D6vEg.485$sM1.228@read1.cgocable.net>   <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <EFvEg.489$sM1.249@read1.cgocable.net>   <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <r%wEg.493$sM1.34@read1.cgocable.net> <1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <7xxEg.495$sM1.323@read1.cgocable.net>

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:53:20 -0400, "RG" <rgalbra@cogeco.ca> wrote:

>Speaking of Delcos, I remember the Delcos and such from the '60's. Those 
>things were huge. Automotive art, some of them. Some of the early '60's ones 
>still had tubes in them if I remember correctly. My dad's '67 Ford Galaxy 
>had something similar to the Delcos. It even had an aftermarket 8 track 
>bolted under the dash. State of the art back in the day .... <snip>

This guy obviously doesn't know his ass from a water balloon.


Article: 339810 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard)
Subject: Re: FART....radio!
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 08:01:39 -0700
Message-ID: <6820-44E33353-8@storefull-3176.bay.webtv.net>
References: <3701-44E27C45-933@storefull-3258.bay.webtv.net>


>That's not a nice thing to say about 
>Italian radios.Shame! 
>                       cuhulin

Right! Flatulence will get you nowhere. Or is that 'flatulencio'? :-) 
                                     oc



Article: 339811 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net>
Message-ID: <8HGEg.862$Cs3.536@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:18:28 GMT



jakdedert wrote:
> Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be 
> mandatory.  Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken 
> off the spool.  That would eventually make an enormous mess.

Perhaps with larger gauge wire.
With smaller gauges, the wire is fedd off of the end of the spool
and fed between a pair of felt pinch clamps to adjust the tension.

Jeff

-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339812 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com> <1155730776.066379.194020@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:23:26 -0400
Message-ID: <vpednc0eCtgKqn7ZnZ2dnUVZ_tydnZ2d@comcast.com>

Mike's right... PLEASE bring your samples, or clear pix off the internet or
anything visual showing the knobs you need!

Knob humor...(honest, this is how it goes at my booth!)
Mr X: "I need a knob for a GE... its kinda brown, and has ridges...
Me:  "what year?  What model?"
Mr X:   (while scanning all my trays)  "oh, I dont know, you know, it has
that big dial on it...."
Me:  did you bring a sample?  Or, I have several radio books here,  maybe we
can see it....
Mr X:  you know, maybe its not a GE,  it might be a Westinghouse....but it
has those ridges on it, ya know?"
Me:  (stabbing myself....) AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!

And, I will second Mike's statement about knobs... if you have a box lot you
are not using,  PLEASE sell it to one of us,  so the knobs get to where they
need to be.  No use hoarding them because you will never have the one you
want anyways, you can always buy the exact right one from one of us when you
need it.  In the mean time, you get $$$ for the knobs you have now.  Its
worth it to save some of the most common ones like Philco, Zenith or such,
but if you are not doing 50+ sets a year, its probably not going to do you
much good.  And, you are helping many others find the knob they need by
selling to an active knob expert.

Mark Oppat



"Mike Koste" <michael.koste@zurichna.com> wrote in message
news:1155730776.066379.194020@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Haven't added any new major stock in over a year, so if anyone has
> radio knobs in bulk they'd like to unload, by all means bring them
> along. And if you need a particular knob, pack a sample: Makes it a lot
> easier to find than a verbal description. ("Well, it's round and about
> this big....")
>
>
> Mike Koste
> Gobs of Knobs
> Ambler, PA
>
>





Article: 339813 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:29:36 -0400
Message-ID: <V6ydnd1HHI-RpH7ZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@comcast.com>

Mark,
GREAT find!  I'm a Silvertone fan.

there are MANY knobs for Silvertone in 1937.  Depending on the set, any knob
can come in either the larger diameter or the smaller, and the functions
called out can vary a lot.

I think on your set the volume is also the on/off switch and is a small
knob?  Is the tone a larger knob?

these are all dark brown plastic, too.

Mark


"MarkS" <mshucks2@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
> Hi All,
> I'm trying to find two knobs for my latest find, a gold round dial 4585
> Silvertone floor radio. These knobs actually have their functions written
on
> them. I am missing the volume & tone knobs, I have the band, tuning and
> selectivity (cool feature). I got this radio for a reasonable price on
> ebay...it wasn't in the collectible or consumer electronics sections, it
was
> in the antique section; my wife found it! Might want to look there once in
> awhile. Considering what these Silvertone round dial radios go for these
> days, I think I did pretty well. The vendor even delivered it to me
blanket
> wrapped for $50 from Maine, I live in NJ. The radio is in excellent
> condition. All original tubes with their Silvertone labels except the 5Y3.
> The original 6G5 even lights up bright. Knowing my luck, the radio is
cheap
> but the knobs are priceless!! Anyone know of a source for the flanged
rubber
> gromments used to isolate the chassis from the cabinet?
> Thanks,
> MarkS
>
>
>





Article: 339814 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Ken <wklwns@cox.net>
Subject: Re: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block
References: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <XVGEg.816$Tl4.729@dukeread06>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:34:01 -0400

I have a 3615D, 2 lugs+one gnd., will that do? $3 + postage Ken

m82a1pa wrote:

> Folks - I need a bakelite block for cosmetically restoring a Philco
> 551.  I could use the 3615-C or 3615-AS (later replacement).  It'd be
> nice to get the long screw and washer for it as well.  Let me know if
> you have one and the shipped price to 17402.  TIA
> 



Article: 339815 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Syl" <personne@perdu.com>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net> <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Message-ID: <muGEg.69015$PV5.391941@wagner.videotron.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:05:02 -0400


"Dave McClellan" <dave@mcclellans.com> wrote in message 
news:4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga...
>I had one like that which was branded "Tradio".
>

Thanks for the reply Dave.

I got an answer on ARF about it. It is indeed a Tradio (The Hotel Radio) and
I got links to a few other models, but none like mine. I'm on a lookout for 
a compatible
coin mechanism and a lock. The lock doesn't seem to be a problem, but the 
mechanism
might be.  I'll restore, probably using hammertone grey. Sp far it looks 
like -someone
commented- a concrete radio...

Now I have to convince a certain website owner to take a good picture of the 
label
>from his so I can replicate the label.

So far it's butt ugly, but with some effort...Plus, the kidz will love
dropping a dime or nickel to have the radio play...

Those radio aren't too plentiful...Maybe once restored it'll be slightly 
more
"attractive"...


Syl 




Article: 339816 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net> <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> <muGEg.69015$PV5.391941@wagner.videotron.net>
Message-ID: <g_GEg.677$S_5.41@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 15:38:52 GMT



Syl wrote:
> Those radio aren't too plentiful...Maybe once restored it'll be
> slightly more "attractive"...

Like putting a pretty bag over her head.

Jeff

-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339817 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 11:46:45 -0400
Message-ID: <6OudncEmjJqToH7ZnZ2dnUVZ_s-dnZ2d@comcast.com>

"jakdedert"  wrote :
> Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be
> mandatory.  Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken
> off the spool.  That would eventually make an enormous mess.


exactly.  You dont want to take wire off the end of a spool much as it adds
a twist.  Now, in fine wire, will it matter?  I'm not sure. I always use an
axel for the supply.  If the wire is a lightweight small spool, you can set
it in the nest of a rag so it will spool off but give some resistance for
tension.  I do this for coils... sometimes I just put the spool in my lap.

 I know in romex wire for home wiring you NEVER do that.  It makes a real
mess of the wire.   I learnt from a good electrician, set up an axel and
hang your wire on it for spooling off.  He had a rack of spools, so we had
12 and 14ga,  also 3 way.

Mark Oppat





Article: 339818 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: 16 Aug 2006 08:46:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Once the wire gets going, it's mass causes it to fly off the spool in a
large bow as it feeds up to to the winder. That is why it is desireable
to set it in a smooth plastic 5 gal bucket to keep the bow from
swinging out far enough to snag something.
On the professional winders in our factory the spools sat on end like
thread spools on a sewing machine, and there was a clear plastic cone
above them guiding the wire into the wire guide system. The change from
end feed to despooling was around #20-24 ga depending on the machine
and the coil being wound. The one turn per spool 'revolution' 'twist'
on the small gauge wire has no effect whatever in handling, provided
the light tension is not lost through the guides.

Neil S.

HobbyBox wrote:
> Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on
> end and stationary.  I would have thought you would want it to be
> rotating, as well... other than the potential to overrun when the
> coiling is stopped.  Won't the wire get bound up on that upper flange?
>
> And your comment about mics.. err... mikes.... is duly noted :)   That
> will probably stick with me for life now.
>
> Thanks.  Getting closer to getting this thing set up.
> -Nate
>
> Alan Douglas wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > > It was reading around .009", which
> > >lead me to believe it was around 30-31 AWG,
> >
> >    You need to know exactly. An error of one wire size will lead to a
> > large error in turns and resistance. 50% error wouldn't surprise me.
> > You don't need to count turns, but  they will affect the magnetic
> > field strength of the completed speaker.
> >
> >    And do follow Neil's advice on the supply spool, which sits on end,
> > stationary, with the wire being taken off over the upper flange.
> >
> >    Finally a small rant.  A micrometer caliper, a microphone, or a
> > Michael, are all mike.  Not mic.  You don't say Mic rode his bic on
> > the turnpic.
> > 
> > Alan



Article: 339819 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com>   <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <4jHEg.864$Cs3.820@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:01:04 GMT

Mark Oppat wrote:

 > exactly.  You dont want to take wire off the end of a spool much as
 > it adds a twist.  Now, in fine wire, will it matter?  I'm not sure.
 > I always use an axel for the supply.  If the wire is a lightweigh
 > small spool, you can set it in the nest of a rag so it will spool
 > off but give some resistance for tension.

Per my comment earlier. When you have a 5-10 pound spool of #34
wire, on an axle, once it gets turning, it has a large amount of
inertial energy. Additionally, when you first start the winding,
the spool is at rest and you have to get it moving by pulling on
the wire. Both situations are a recipe for disaster.

nesesu wrote:
> On the professional winders in our factory the spools sat on end like
> thread spools on a sewing machine, and there was a clear plastic cone
> above them guiding the wire into the wire guide system. The change from
> end feed to despooling was around #20-24 ga depending on the machine
> and the coil being wound. The one turn per spool 'revolution' 'twist'
> on the small gauge wire has no effect whatever in handling, provided
> the light tension is not lost through the guides.
> 
> Neil S.

I have the de-spooler here at the shop.

The next step is to add a variable speed control to my lathe.

Jeff


-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339820 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mike Koste" <michael.koste@zurichna.com>
Subject: Re: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 09:14:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1155744855.805902.281070@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com>

And if they're printed with the numbers 2 thru 13, or with terms like
"UHF", "Vert Hold", "Contrast", or "Brightness", please leave them at
home, or sell them to Mark. I have more TV knobs than are allowed by
law.

Mike Koste
Gobs of Knobs
Ambler, PA



Article: 339821 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:20:04 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ebvgjk$el2$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net> <6322-44E322EE-8@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net>

In <6322-44E322EE-8@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) writes:

>I bet all restored with a good color better knobs and a great looking
>big decal on the front would make that pig look real neet .  

   Throw in a new cabinet, speaker grille, and dial and you might
have something.


   Oh, yeah.  Needs new feet, too.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339822 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Paul Stamler" <pstamlerhell@pobox.com>
References: <YBvEg.37338$Nt2.18580@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <cEHEg.626845$Fs1.4252@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:23:36 GMT

<0junk4me@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net...

> Just never liked their stuff, and don't think I ever saw any
> JVC gear in a pro live sound rig, or in any studio I've been
> in either.

They made the first digital recorder I heard that didn't sound horrible to
me. It was used on some excellent early-80s Nonesuch recordings.

Peace,
Paul




Article: 339823 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:24:00 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ebvgqv$el2$2@reader2.panix.com>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net> <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> <muGEg.69015$PV5.391941@wagner.videotron.net>

In <muGEg.69015$PV5.391941@wagner.videotron.net> "Syl" <personne@perdu.com> writes:

>So far it's butt ugly, but with some effort...Plus, the kidz will love
>dropping a dime or nickel to have the radio play...

   Just (mostly :) kidding about the fugly remarks, Syl.  Coin-op stuff
is cool.  Remnants of a bygone era when all sorts of stuff would perform
at the drop of a nickle, dime, or quarter.

   I've an extremely brief memory of a snippet from some old black & white
sitcom where some suit walks in the public restroom and finds you have to
deposit a coin for the mirror to roll down.  Always wondered if anyone
ever tried that. :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339824 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Syl" <personne@perdu.com>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net> <uoGEg.63$M75.28@newsfe06.lga>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Message-ID: <YmHEg.71866$PV5.398506@wagner.videotron.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:05:24 -0400


"Dave McClellan" <dave@mcclellans.com> wrote in message 
news:uoGEg.63$M75.28@newsfe06.lga...
> If you decide to strip and repaint, try this FIRST.  My Tradio (TU-6 IIRC)
> was also painted some God awful color.  For some reason I started cleaning
> it off with lacquer thinner.  It not only removed the paint, but the
> original baked on finish was not affected, and EVEN THE TRADIO DECAL was
> unaffected!  Mine was the same shape as yours, but had a 6-tube chassis 
> with
> untuned RF amp.  It had two white knobs, both right below the dial scale.
> As others have said, these were made by different companies and had
> different chassis.
>
> Does yours have the back, lock (and key) and coin mechanism intact?
>
> Dave

Hi Dave,

The back is there but the lock and coin mechanism are both missing.

No label either on the front and it's almost like there was never one...

The finish looks and _feel_ like concrete ! Really ! It's not caused by
rust (although there are minute rust spots). The paint is
baked-on and very close looks almost like weathered hammertone grey.

Strange finish, and it is original, looking from the inside...

Thinner does not affect the paint and stripper removes the "texture"
and leaves a flat grey paint behind...

Here's a link I got: 
http://pat.kagi.us/Pats-Arcade-Games-and-Player-Instruments/Picture_2620

Probably the same model you had ?

Syl 




Article: 339825 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Syl" <personne@perdu.com>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net> <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> <muGEg.69015$PV5.391941@wagner.videotron.net> <g_GEg.677$S_5.41@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Message-ID: <GoHEg.71898$PV5.398678@wagner.videotron.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:07:15 -0400


"Jeffrey D Angus" <jangus@socal.rr.com> wrote in message 
news:g_GEg.677$S_5.41@tornado.socal.rr.com...
>
>
> Syl wrote:
>> Those radio aren't too plentiful...Maybe once restored it'll be
>> slightly more "attractive"...
>
> Like putting a pretty bag over her head.
>
> Jeff


...or take off my glasses...

Syl 




Article: 339826 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios
Message-ID: <caIEg.7393$Ji1.4217@trnddc05>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:59:52 GMT

I don't think the original reason for wire radios had to do with reception. 
Rather, it was a means of ensuring that most citizens would listen to Soviet 
propaganda rather than to broadcasts from overseas that might lead them to 
believe that things are better on the other side of the curtain.  Of course 
they may have used the reception issue as an excuse . . .



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com


"Jiri Placek" <radiotubes@fast.net> wrote in message 
news:1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> That was a topic here some time ago.  I just returned from Europe with
> a sophisticated soviet three-channel receiver ALTAIR PT-204 that was
> apparently made in 1990's.  It is a 220 V unit that received 30 V,
> two-wire signal.  It was made after 1988 as there is a reference to the
> standard GOST18286-88. It consists of two units - one is digital alarm
> clock with a nixie display and the other one amplified wire radio
> receiver for three programs.  I suspect that two of those three audio
> signals were at the distribution station heterodyned to ultrasonic
> frequencies and then converted back to audio signal in the receiver.
> There are three knobs on the back side that appear to be tunable traps,
> perhaps for harmonic frequencies.
>
> It is amazing that such wire radio was made even in 1990's when there
> was already a good FM signal coverage and people were not driven nuts
> by AM interference that eventually lead them to wire radio.
>
> Another amazing detail are the plugs that are of the same desing for
> both 220 V power and for the 30 V audio signal.  I wonder how many
> units were fried....
>
> I tried to find some info on either the technical standard for this
> multi-signal system or schematics of the radio itself but I have failed
> so far.  I will appreciate any lead.
>
> Jiri Placek
> Boyertown, PA
> 




Article: 339827 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
Subject: Pinging Mark Oppat
Message-ID: <9bIEg.7394$Ji1.5295@trnddc05>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:00:53 GMT

I've sent Mark a couple of e-mails with no response.  Are you there?



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com




Article: 339828 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Bill Jeffrey <wjeffrey@TAKE-THIS-OUTalum.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com>   <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <4jHEg.864$Cs3.820@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <drIEg.36891$1Z5.30106@twister.nyroc.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:18:01 GMT

Jeffrey D Angus wrote:

> Mark Oppat wrote:
> 
>  > exactly.  You dont want to take wire off the end of a spool much as
>  > it adds a twist.  Now, in fine wire, will it matter?  I'm not sure.
>  > I always use an axel for the supply.  If the wire is a lightweigh
>  > small spool, you can set it in the nest of a rag so it will spool
>  > off but give some resistance for tension.
> 
> Per my comment earlier. When you have a 5-10 pound spool of #34
> wire, on an axle, once it gets turning, it has a large amount of
> inertial energy. Additionally, when you first start the winding,
> the spool is at rest and you have to get it moving by pulling on
> the wire. Both situations are a recipe for disaster.

Jeff -

Start-up shock wasn't a problem.  I simply started the variac up slowly, 
and the motor has next to no torque at low voltage.  Also as I noted, 
the rubber band drive belt provided LOTS of compliance.  And even at 
full winding speed, the motor was never operated at anywhere near 120 
VAC, in order to maintain low winding speed (150 RPM or so).

You are right, though - once the supply spool was spinning, stopping it 
without unloading a bunch of wire onto the floor did seem like 
gymnastics.  I finally found that I could simply maintina a bit of 
finger pressure on the supply spool flange.  When a quick stop was 
needed (not very often, but occasionally), I could snap the variac to 
ZERO with one hand and apply finger pressure to the flange with the 
other, and stop things under good control.

Make no mistake - this is not a professional machine, and if I had been 
out to wind 20 coils instead of only one, I would have put more time and 
money into designing and building a winder.  But for a quickly-built, 
cheaply-built, one-time need, it worked great.

By the way, I have one of the original Morris Coil Winders.  I thought 
about using that thing - a "professional" machine - and quickly gave up 
on it.

Bill


Article: 339829 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: John Bachman <johnREMOVE@anatek.REMOVEmv.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:35:22 -0400
Message-ID: <mkl6e2pksrln81ie4mpg0e7ua6vbicol7o@4ax.com>
References: <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net>

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:39:58 -0600, goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) wrote:

>Actually i go without till i have to have one then i make it . Cutting
>out the wood and getting it perfect is the hardest or longest part . I
>do not use the oven . It causes bubbles in the plastic .  

I have had the same experience, especially with thicker plastic.  Some
original dial covers are 0.100 glass so I try to match the thickness
for the most faithful reproduction.  However, I find that plastic
greater than 0.060 thickness bubbles easily.  I think that it is due
to impurities in the plastic, maybe moisture that vaporizes.

I do not use wood for molds, I use resin.  It is a bit trickier to
work with and more costly but when finished with 2000 grit it is
glassy smooth.

If you do not use an oven, how do you heat the plastic?

John
reproduction dialcovers at
www.anatekcorp.com/dialcovers/dialcovers.htm



Article: 339830 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "m82a1pa" <mldenison@suscom.net>
Subject: Re: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block
Date: 16 Aug 2006 10:58:39 -0700
Message-ID: <1155751118.964275.240040@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

Appreciate it, Ken.  I've located a 3615-X which is the 7 lugger -
needed a few more lugs on it.



Article: 339831 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:57:30 -0500
Message-ID: <28421-44E35C8A-9@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net>
References: <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net>

NOT IF YOU ARE USING PLASTIC MAKE FOR MOLDING.


CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com
Bill Turner, excuse  caps, short answers, stroke.
Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide.  






Article: 339832 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Lee <glog@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Trying to ID a coin opeated radio
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:11:43 -0400
Message-ID: <ebvn4o$159l$1@registered.motzarella.de>
References: <vLbEg.31851$O_.192760@weber.videotron.net> <4vjEg.8$9V2.4@newsfe03.lga> <muGEg.69015$PV5.391941@wagner.videotron.net> <g_GEg.677$S_5.41@tornado.socal.rr.com> <GoHEg.71898$PV5.398678@wagner.videotron.net>

Syl wrote:
> "Jeffrey D Angus" <jangus@socal.rr.com> wrote in message 
> news:g_GEg.677$S_5.41@tornado.socal.rr.com...
>>
>> Syl wrote:
>>> Those radio aren't too plentiful...Maybe once restored it'll be
>>> slightly more "attractive"...
>> Like putting a pretty bag over her head.
>>
>> Jeff
> 
> 
> ...or take off my glasses...
> 
> Syl 
> 
> 
You don't have a 'clapper' on the light? <vbg>
Regards
Lee


Article: 339833 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "AuroraOldRadios" <menwagoh@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of the project SC-145P skyscraper
Date: 16 Aug 2006 11:23:35 -0700
Message-ID: <1155752615.478755.35490@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155243489.997084.71520@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>


AuroraOldRadios wrote:
> I got it home safely today. There's a lot of veneer work. I didn't
> realize the cabinet was so big. Appears to be missing the cover for the
> labyrinth. The big piece of curled veneer is from the phono compartment
> lid. Also missing the handle for the record storage door.
> Here's some pictures.
> http://groups.msn.com/AuroraOldRadios/shoebox.msnw?Page=1

Pictures of the turntable and cartridge have been added. I'm sure it's
not original.



Article: 339834 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RG" <rgalbra@cogeco.ca>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <1DtEg.17162$Nx4.7282@bignews8.bellsouth.net>   <D6vEg.485$sM1.228@read1.cgocable.net>   <1155695303.393450.11720@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>   <EFvEg.489$sM1.249@read1.cgocable.net>   <1155697133.887472.58750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <r%wEg.493$sM1.34@read1.cgocable.net> <1155702227.395409.313150@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <7xxEg.495$sM1.323@read1.cgocable.net> <dnb6e2538e01ckv4fskpgro7sjvkojsn9i@4ax.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <VqJEg.516$sM1.132@read1.cgocable.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:25:56 -0400

you talking to me .... if so please explain.

- RG


"DeserTBoB" <desertb@rglobal.net> wrote in message 
news:dnb6e2538e01ckv4fskpgro7sjvkojsn9i@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:53:20 -0400, "RG" <rgalbra@cogeco.ca> wrote:
>
>>Speaking of Delcos, I remember the Delcos and such from the '60's. Those
>>things were huge. Automotive art, some of them. Some of the early '60's 
>>ones
>>still had tubes in them if I remember correctly. My dad's '67 Ford Galaxy
>>had something similar to the Delcos. It even had an aftermarket 8 track
>>bolted under the dash. State of the art back in the day .... <snip>
>
> This guy obviously doesn't know his ass from a water balloon. 




Article: 339835 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RG" <rgalbra@cogeco.ca>
References: <YBvEg.37338$Nt2.18580@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <CvJEg.517$sM1.202@read1.cgocable.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:30:57 -0400

This kind of begs the question ... so what are you doing here, LOL.

- RG

 >I don't do aftermarket car audio.  IF it's too loud to hear the engine
> running it doesn't play in any vehicle I own as listening to
> the engine gives me first hints of real trouble down the
> road.




Article: 339836 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: John Bachman <johnREMOVE@anatek.REMOVEmv.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:51:35 -0400
Message-ID: <d2q6e2d27851v73sckapfdaik8d8898622@4ax.com>
References: <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net> <28421-44E35C8A-9@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net>

I am using PETG in thicknesses of 0.020 through 0.060 depending on the
need.  It is only in the thicker plastic that I notice some bubbling
although I have been able to overcome it up to 0.060.  No luck with
thicknesses greater than that yet.

If it is impurities as I suspect then that will vary from lot to lot.
I buy 4' X 8' sheets from a nearby plastic supply house and cut them
down to 12" X 12" for most covers or 16" X 16" for larger ones.

John
reproduction dial covers at
www.anatekcorp.com/dialcovers/dialcovers.htm


On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 12:57:30 -0500, dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner)
wrote:

>NOT IF YOU ARE USING PLASTIC MAKE FOR MOLDING.
>
>
>CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com
>Bill Turner, excuse  caps, short answers, stroke.
>Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide.  
>
>
>


Article: 339837 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: kludge@panix.com (Scott Dorsey)
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 14:45:04 -0400
Message-ID: <ebvp3g$982$1@panix2.panix.com>
References: <YBvEg.37338$Nt2.18580@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <8UEEg.15351$0k4.9591@bignews1.bellsouth.net> <CvJEg.517$sM1.202@read1.cgocable.net>

RG <rgalbra@cogeco.ca> wrote:
>This kind of begs the question ... so what are you doing here, LOL.

This message has been crossposted to rec.audio.tech,rec.audio.pro,
rec.audio.car,rec.antiques.radio+phono, and de.rec.musik.hifi.  A
totally inappropriate list of groups if I ever I have seen one, given
that the junk speakers referred to are not professional, not for car
use, not antique, and not sold in Germany.

Please check the followups: whenever you reply.
--scott

-- 
"C'est un Nagra.  C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."


Article: 339838 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 11:55:07 -0700
Message-ID: <1155754507.414623.244460@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Steven wrote:
> Weren't you on junk in the sixties? I was being breast-fed for some of
> it.

Actually, in the 60s, my electronics were Scott, speakers were AR and
the TT was a Dual, the cartridge was a Shure, tuner was a Dynaco. Mind,
I was 17 in 1969, missed Woodstock due to distance (long hitch from
Texas) and had no use (then or now) for recreational pharmaceuticals.

That system stayed with the family. My "first" system (in 1974) gleaned
all on my own had AR4x speakers, an AR receiver, Thorens TT w/Rabco
SL-8E arm, Shure cartridge, HK-2000 cassette deck, and a Revox A77 tape
deck.

Of that group, I have retained the speakers. The rest was stolen in
1978. There have been multiple iterations since.

Present front-line SS System consists of:

AR3a speakers, Citation 16 power-amp, Revox A720 tuner/pre-amp, Revox
B225 CD player, Revox A77 tape-deck, Revox B795 TT w/Ortophon cartrige.
Koss Electrostatic headphones

Back-line: Also AR3a speakers, Scott LK-150 power-amp, Dynaco PAS3 &
FM3 pre-amp & tuner, Revox B790/Shure TT/Cartridge, Yamaha CD changer.
No tape. Koss Pro4aaTi headphones.

There are four other complete systems tube and SS, but they come and go
at whim.

The Yamaha represents my only piece of Pacific Rim equipment.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339839 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: What Are You Bringing to Kutztown 9/22-23/06 ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 12:57:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1155758229.674706.275560@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <12e6166e11m2v7e@corp.supernews.com>

I will be bringing various bits of Radio and Audio. Audio will include
at least one Dynaco SCA-80Q ($80), PAS-3 ($150), FM-3 ($90) and SCA-35
($250), all working 100% and in clean condition. One AR (US) integrated
amp will also be included ($250).

Speakers will include (ONLY on request, or I will not transport them) a
pair of AR4x ($100), AR3a ($275), AR8 ($50) and a pair of small ADS
(4.5" woofer/dome tweeter) ($50), also all good.

Radios to be posted closer to the date depending on what comes off the
bench.

Let me know on the audio stuff, my hope would be to settle a price (or
trade) in advance... I will bring it with your name on it. I put prices
here on general principle, but they are all negotiable and open to
offers and trades. My _actual_ preference is to trade a small amount of
cash and a similar not-working-but-restorable item rather than a larger
amount of cash. Aladdin's Nemesis' "New Lamps for Old" but with some
payment required.

I will not be renting a table, I will be helping out the club and
hopefully doing a clinic. Hence the wish to have all this settled
ahead. 

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339840 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:11:37 -0400
Message-ID: <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net>


"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message 
news:OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net...

> Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be 
> mandatory.  Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken off 
> the spool.  That would eventually make an enormous mess.


Then how could I have made my statement about it working perfectly, as well 
as others? Do other people here make bold statements like "it works 
perfectly" without ever trying something once? I'm not sure if my post never 
appeared, or exactly what happened.

Alan Douglas posted here several years ago about helping me rewind a field 
coil on a little tombstone I got from his barn. He mentioned I should just 
let it fly off the end in a bucket instead of using a rotating feed like I 
had been using. As I posted then and in response to this Majestic, I tried 
the rotating feed and the wire broke constantly. Alan's method was the ONLY 
way that worked. IIRC jak even participated in the discussion.

I'm realizing as I write jak assumed I was just talking on the on the basis 
of pure theory. That's a truly scary idea. Let me add an addendum then to 
the last 12,000 posts I've made- if I'm saying something entirely without 
qualification I've not only tried it bit tried it repeatedly. I take it as a 
given armchair engineers' advice is to be taken with a grain of salt and 
should be labeled clearly as entirely theory based. Theory is fine for 
electronics but not the nitty gritty world of getting it done.

John H. 




Article: 339841 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
Subject: Interesting distortion
Message-ID: <9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 20:49:09 GMT

I wonder if anyone else has experienced this . . .

My Atwater Kent 60 sits in my shop, and I frequently listen to it. 
Sometimes I'll have it on talk radio, sometimes I'll fire up the AMT-3000 
transmitter and play some OTR through it.  Either one sounds fine.

However if I connect an AM/FM tuner to the AMT-3000, it's very distorted 
through the AK.  I mean VERY distorted -- to the point where I thought the 
tuner was bad.  But I tried a second tuner and it does the same thing.  The 
gain, modulation, and compression controls do very little for the 
distortion.  AM is okay, but FM is terribly distorted.

I brought my Zenith H-500 TO into the room, turned it on and the FM radio 
sounds crystal clear through it.  So the problem has to be in the AK, right?

Now -- these radios are known for adding a little bit of distortion, but 
this is quite a bit -- and only when I play the FM tuner through it.

Could there be some sort of RF image interference?  I doubt it, as this is a 
TRF radio.  Could it have something to do with the increased fidelity of the 
FM signal?  The AMT-3000 is wide open, and maybe the highs are creating a 
problem.  But -- I reconnected the CD player, and as I type this I'm 
listening to an Ace Of Base CD -- rather interesting music to come from a 
1929 radio, but I don't have the distortion problem.

Swapping the CD player with the tuner, I notice the tuner signal is 
stronger -- but I'm not overmodulating, as again -- it's clear through 
another radio.  Could it be that the modulation is below 100%, but higher 
than what the AK can handle?  No, because every AM broadcast station uses 
near-100% mod, and they sound fine on this radio.  (By fine I don't mean 
perfect by audiophile standards, but certainly listenable.)

I'm really getting intrigued by this.  I think it may be time to pull out 
the scope and have a look at the RF signal, modulation levels, etc.


-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com




Article: 339842 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jimfberg@webtv.net (Jim Berg)
Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:49:35 -0700
Message-ID: <14718-44E384DF-29@storefull-3111.bay.webtv.net>
References: <ebu6rs0tie@news4.newsguy.com>

Scott: Some of those Zenith exports are listed in Rider under chassis
number.



Article: 339843 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Ken <wklwns@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Interesting distortion
References: <9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04>
Message-ID: <R8MEg.887$Tl4.63@dukeread06>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:31:15 -0400

Try decreasind the antenna on the AK, or put it further away from the 
AMT. I've had trouble sort of like that with my AMT and others. Ken

Gary Tayman wrote:

> I wonder if anyone else has experienced this . . .
> 
> My Atwater Kent 60 sits in my shop, and I frequently listen to it. 
> Sometimes I'll have it on talk radio, sometimes I'll fire up the AMT-3000 
> transmitter and play some OTR through it.  Either one sounds fine.
> 
> However if I connect an AM/FM tuner to the AMT-3000, it's very distorted 
> through the AK.  I mean VERY distorted -- to the point where I thought the 
> tuner was bad.  But I tried a second tuner and it does the same thing.  The 
> gain, modulation, and compression controls do very little for the 
> distortion.  AM is okay, but FM is terribly distorted.
> 
> I brought my Zenith H-500 TO into the room, turned it on and the FM radio 
> sounds crystal clear through it.  So the problem has to be in the AK, right?
> 
> Now -- these radios are known for adding a little bit of distortion, but 
> this is quite a bit -- and only when I play the FM tuner through it.
> 
> Could there be some sort of RF image interference?  I doubt it, as this is a 
> TRF radio.  Could it have something to do with the increased fidelity of the 
> FM signal?  The AMT-3000 is wide open, and maybe the highs are creating a 
> problem.  But -- I reconnected the CD player, and as I type this I'm 
> listening to an Ace Of Base CD -- rather interesting music to come from a 
> 1929 radio, but I don't have the distortion problem.
> 
> Swapping the CD player with the tuner, I notice the tuner signal is 
> stronger -- but I'm not overmodulating, as again -- it's clear through 
> another radio.  Could it be that the modulation is below 100%, but higher 
> than what the AK can handle?  No, because every AM broadcast station uses 
> near-100% mod, and they sound fine on this radio.  (By fine I don't mean 
> perfect by audiophile standards, but certainly listenable.)
> 
> I'm really getting intrigued by this.  I think it may be time to pull out 
> the scope and have a look at the RF signal, modulation levels, etc.
> 
> 



Article: 339844 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone have a Mallory-Yaxley Riders index?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 15:02:13 -0700
Message-ID: <1155765733.908082.257310@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <44dff984$0$20772$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>

Thanks for all the photography suggestions, I appreciate it. Will give
it a try again when I get back to working on the set. Maybe I can get
by without it anyway, it's pretty simple and mostly untouched
underchassis, the part labels are legible and it plays weakly with new
filter caps. I'm thinking after all the usual work is done it may just
work without my using a ske.

-p.



Article: 339845 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:00:06 -0500
Message-ID: <18592-44E39566-60@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net>
References: <d2q6e2d27851v73sckapfdaik8d8898622@4ax.com>

THE WRONG PLASTIC, AND THE WRONG THICKNESS.


CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com
Bill Turner, excuse  caps, short answers, stroke.
Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide.  






Article: 339846 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark S" <mshucks2@earthlink.net>
References: <COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>   <1155702101.066535.303580@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155736776.102507.84460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip?
Message-ID: <kZMEg.6782$Qf.6106@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:27:28 GMT

I'll put the ones I have in my pocket and see you there! (Yikes, May doesn't 
seem that long ago!) Hmmm...what to do from September to May? Lionel trains 
of course! "The difference between men and boyz is the size and cost of 
their toyz!"
Thanks,
Mark

"Mike Koste" <michael.koste@zurichna.com> wrote in message 
news:1155736776.102507.84460@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Mark: Come see me at Kutztown. I probably have the knobs you need.
>
> Mike Koste
> Gobs of Knobs
> Ambler, PA
> 




Article: 339847 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "the MAGNATE" <analog@epix.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 15:28:19 -0700
Message-ID: <1155767299.218479.16180@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


John Stone wrote:
> On 8/15/06 9:02 PM, in article h1vEg.484$sM1.127@read1.cgocable.net, "RG"
> <rgalbra@cogeco.ca> wrote:
>
> > That may true to a certain extent, but not in the all encompassing sense
> > that you stated. I can think of more than a "few" made in Japan speakers
> > from that era that are highly sought after, and for good reason. In fact, I
> > have a pair of mint Yamaha NS-690II's that are completely at odds with your
> > statement.
> Well, I'd like to know what they are, other than a few Yamahas like the
> NS1000 that stood out at the time. BTW, a number of well reviewed Yamaha
> speakers weren't designed or built in Japan. They used European drivers and
> were built in the USA.
>
>
> >Newer is NOT always better.
> In fact, where loudspeakers are concerned-at least reputable ones-newer IS
> nearly always better. Newer may not always be sonically preferred, but that
> is another issue. The fact is that loudspeaker design has advanced
> dramatically in the past 15-20 years. Part of this is due to advancement in
> materials, but the big change is in the ability to use CAD and FEA programs
> for simulation of cones, motor structures, cabinet design, and crossover
> topology. Prior to this, all of these areas came down to "cut and try". It
> was hard enough back then to just get reasonable frequency response, much
> less low distortion or good dispersion.  Just run a frequency response sweep
> between a 1970's design and a good modern speaker. You'll see a big
> difference.
>
>
>
> > The JVC's I do not know about. I have
> > never listened to them.
>
> I have. They're awful. Just look at the configuration of the drivers.
> There's no acoustical design expertise at all to these.


the cabinets are made better than the average speaker of today- I mean
what is consumer grade today ?? tiny surround sound POS speakers



Article: 339848 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Chris F." <zappymanNOSPAM@hotmail.com>
Subject: Telefunken Schematic
Message-ID: <YkNEg.49176$pu3.579271@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:52:40 GMT

Does anyone have, or know where I can find, a schematic for a Telefunken 
5183wk console?
Thanks.

-- 
To reply via Email, remove NOSPAM from the address 




Article: 339849 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
Subject: Coilwinder
Message-ID: <FmNEg.73092$zy5.1335800@twister1.libero.it>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:54:29 GMT

Another item arrived from the same basement
where the wire spools have been found.
This was used in a small radio lab that used
to build up radios using Geloso parts, extimated
no more than 500 pcs x year.
Needs a bit of cleaning...
I've uploaded large images (but small file size):
http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg 




Article: 339850 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <FmNEg.73092$zy5.1335800@twister1.libero.it>
Subject: Re: Coilwinder
Message-ID: <9pNEg.73094$zy5.1335669@twister1.libero.it>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:57:09 GMT

Damned Outlook express...

http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/4.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/5.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/6.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/7.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/8.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/9.jpg




Article: 339851 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <YkNEg.49176$pu3.579271@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: Telefunken Schematic
Message-ID: <ouNEg.73420$_J1.732783@twister2.libero.it>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:02:44 GMT


"Chris F."
> Does anyone have, or know where I can find, a schematic for a Telefunken 
> 5183wk console?
> Thanks.

Is this the Allegro Stereo HiFi 5183W?
Tubeline ECC85 ECH81 EBF89 EBC91 EM84 ECC83 EL84 ?

-- 
 Daniele     ^___^
 http://www.tuberadio.it




Article: 339852 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 16:30:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08>


jim menning wrote:
> "Lyndell Scott" <lfscott@flash.net> wrote in message
> news:FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
> > BILL,
> > IF YOU INTERPRETED MY COMMENTS AS A COMPLAINT, THEN I APPOLOGIZE. I DID NOT MEAN IT
> > THAT WAY AT ALL AND WILL FOLLOW YOUR INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY THE NEXT TIME I MAKE A
> > DIAL COVER. I MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR WILLINGNESS TO SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE WITH OTHERS.
>
>
>
> I don't think Bill was responding to you Lyndell.
>
> If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to "JOHN D" who
> reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website.  Apparently JOHN D is
> the first to report any problem opening the site to Bill.  FWIW, the site opens fine
> for me.
> 
> jim menning

I'm getting a headache now.



Article: 339853 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 16:39:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1155771551.744653.54240@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155681123.947161.88620@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>


duty-honor-country wrote:
> RG wrote:
> > Why is that ?
> >
> > I have a JVC KD-SH9750 HU in my GTI that I would not dream of replacing. It
> > is by far the best sounding HU I have ever had ... and I have had most of
> > the top of the line HU's at one time or another. In fact, I have top of the
> > line Alpines sitting on the shelf right now because they just can't touch
> > this JVC in SQ (and I have tried them). So is your statement general in
> > nature or aimed at specific offerings from JVC ?
> >
> > - RG
>
>
> good post- I rest my case- these guys knock stuff they never heard
> before- signs of a small mind

I know all about yer car stereo:shit: ese, I'm 40 and grew up in the
1980s, but I am into AM SQ, therefore I stuck with the holy grail of
Delco, UX1/Symphony Sound. Mopar is excellent to if you want to keep
OEM brand stuff in your car. PS I couldn't afford JVC and Alpine, so I
fixed junkyard radios. I'm happy with them. My boss used to install
Memphis Audio and car stereo too. I get some of the leftovers, and I'm
saving them for the day I can afford to drive again.



Article: 339854 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark S" <mshucks2@earthlink.net>
References: <COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net> <V6ydnd1HHI-RpH7ZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@comcast.com>
Subject: Re: Silvertone knobs needed & a tip?
Message-ID: <muNEg.4741$Sn3.3718@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:02:42 GMT


"Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet> wrote in message 
news:V6ydnd1HHI-RpH7ZnZ2dnUVZ_sudnZ2d@comcast.com...
> Mark,
> GREAT find!  I'm a Silvertone fan.
>
> there are MANY knobs for Silvertone in 1937.  Depending on the set, any 
> knob
> can come in either the larger diameter or the smaller, and the functions
> called out can vary a lot.
>
> I think on your set the volume is also the on/off switch and is a small
> knob?  Is the tone a larger knob?
>
> these are all dark brown plastic, too.
>
> Mark

Hi Mark,
The knobs are all the same size about 1" in dia. They have two lugs @180 
deg. apart projecting. My first real "collector" radio was a 6346 
Silvertone. I pulled it out of a used furniture barn around August '76; just 
prior to my freshman year in college. My buddies weren't quite sure what to 
make of it; ..."but,...wouldn't you rather drink beer?" ...yeah..so?  That 
radio taught me alot. The chassis was mounted vertically in the cabinet so 
the wet electrolytics were inside the chassis mounted to a bracket. This way 
the electrolytics would be vertical when the chassis was in place. Of 
course, me, I knew nothing about wet electrolytics. I pulled the chassis and 
set it flat (wet electros horizontal!), plugged it in and turned it on to 
see how the old gal worked. Well, after about 30 sec. the electrolytics 
started to boil and spew their liquid everywhere. The rectifier lit up like 
a Christmas tree. Lesson learned. It still stands duty, in the upstairs hall 
foyer, fully functional; beautiful as ever. The woods and veneer are 
amazing. I'm really excited about this new one though. Its condition is 
unbelievable. Could turn out to have problems but I've yet to find any.
Thanks,
Mark S

>
>
> "MarkS" <mshucks2@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:COvEg.8425$xp2.1393@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>> Hi All,
>> I'm trying to find two knobs for my latest find, a gold round dial 4585
>> Silvertone floor radio. These knobs actually have their functions written
> on
>> them. I am missing the volume & tone knobs, I have the band, tuning and
>> selectivity (cool feature). I got this radio for a reasonable price on
>> ebay...it wasn't in the collectible or consumer electronics sections, it
> was
>> in the antique section; my wife found it! Might want to look there once 
>> in
>> awhile. Considering what these Silvertone round dial radios go for these
>> days, I think I did pretty well. The vendor even delivered it to me
> blanket
>> wrapped for $50 from Maine, I live in NJ. The radio is in excellent
>> condition. All original tubes with their Silvertone labels except the 
>> 5Y3.
>> The original 6G5 even lights up bright. Knowing my luck, the radio is
> cheap
>> but the knobs are priceless!! Anyone know of a source for the flanged
> rubber
>> gromments used to isolate the chassis from the cabinet?
>> Thanks,
>> MarkS
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> 




Article: 339855 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Coilwinder
Date: 16 Aug 2006 16:49:38 -0700
Message-ID: <1155772178.209057.142920@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <FmNEg.73092$zy5.1335800@twister1.libero.it>

Ouch, Daniele, that looks in pretty rough shape!! Mine was about 1/10
as bad as that and I had to strip it down part by part and polish the
steel 'bright parts' so it would all work smoothly again.  What brand
of winder is that? It look somewhat familiar.
That is an interesting wire handler that pulls and also will rock to
allow for winding on square forms.
Can you please post a couple of close up photos of the wire laying
mechanism on the back of the winder? I am wondering if it is fast
enough to do 'Pi' winding or will just do layer winding like my AVO.
Once you get it polished up, it looks to be an excellent winding
machine, and the motor is certainly much more powerful than the sewing
machine one on my machine, so it has the potential to wind pretty big
coils/transformers!

Neil S.

Daniele wrote:
> Damned Outlook express...
>
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/4.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/5.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/6.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/7.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/8.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/9.jpg



Article: 339856 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:51:28 -0600
Message-ID: <5988-44E3AF80-195@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

I`m getting a headache now. 

Now you know how everyone else on planet earth feels having to see your
50 posts every hour .



Article: 339857 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: John Bachman <johnREMOVE@anatek.REMOVEmv.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 20:11:15 -0400
Message-ID: <huc7e2pgbpca9krh1rs2ndfretvija6nap@4ax.com>
References: <d2q6e2d27851v73sckapfdaik8d8898622@4ax.com> <18592-44E39566-60@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net>

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:00:06 -0500, dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner)
wrote:

>THE WRONG PLASTIC, AND THE WRONG THICKNESS.
>
No, I do not think so.  Results are great.

It is entirely possible for different people to use different methods,
materials and procedures and achieve good results.

John


Article: 339858 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de>
Subject: Re: Grundig Majestic 2068 question
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:01:55 +0200
Message-ID: <ec0blj$bo9$03$1@news.t-online.com>
References: <1155666638.672365.90770@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

gil wrote:

> I have one of these beauties in very nice shape that I pull out of
the
> closet once in a while to play with and to this day it still amazes
me
> how well it works, sensitive and selective as well not to mention
great
> audio.
>
> My question is...is there a manual I can download somewhere for this
> radio?
>
> And any info like year made, price, anything would be appreciated
since
> I cant seem to find anything on it on the web.

Informations about the original version of Grundig 2068
are here http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/grundig_musikgeraet_2068.html

Do you really need an instruction manual for operating the set?

Kind Regards
Georg




Article: 339859 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:57:35 -0600
Message-ID: <5988-44E3B0EF-196@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

John i use a heat gun . Put the wood plug on the bench or floor ,
plastic on top of it then the wood frame on top of that heat the plastic
while pushing down on the wood frame both sides with long sticks to keep
your hands out of the heat . 
I prefer thicker plastic , it comes out nicer and flaw free . If you
overheat it will bubble . 
Takes a half hour to make the wood parts so they are nice ( not some
quick 2 year olds school project ) Takes a couple minutes to make the
cover .

I only do this 3 to 4 times a year .



Article: 339860 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de>
Subject: Re: Grundig 4035 scematics
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:04:19 +0200
Message-ID: <ec0bq4$p9u$00$1@news.t-online.com>
References: <g4sEg.8297$xp2.450@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net>

deadeye wrote:

> I recently purchased a non-working Grundig model 4035 and am looking
for
> schematics for it. Does anyone have a source?
> Thanks

There are at least three versions of 4035 existing.
Start here: http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/grundig_4035w.html
and check which model you own.

Kind Regards
Georg




Article: 339861 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:12:43 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec0c9r$r0r$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>    <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>    <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>    <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>    <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>    <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

In <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "HobbyBox" <hobby.box@gmail.com> writes:

>Just out of curiosity, why is it better for the supply spool to be on
>end and stationary.  I would have thought you would want it to be
>rotating, as well...

   I've always wondered that, too.  If you leave the supply spool
stationary you're adding a twist to the wire.  Or, rather, you're
_not_undoing_ the twist inherent in a coil.

   I trust you guys with the experience implicitly, so it simply
must not matter for small diameter single-strands.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339862 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:18:26 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec0cki$r0r$2@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>    <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>    <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>    <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>    <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>    <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com>    <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>

In <1155743174.997400.155640@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net> writes:

>The change from
>end feed to despooling was around #20-24 ga depending on the machine
>and the coil being wound. The one turn per spool 'revolution' 'twist'
>on the small gauge wire has no effect whatever in handling, provided
>the light tension is not lost through the guides.

   Shoulda read before posting.  Thanks!

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339863 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Georg Richter" <520066970381-0001@T-Online.de>
Subject: Sonora radio (picture from "Spokesman" was on a.b.p.r)
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:20:26 +0200
Message-ID: <ec0coa$lnt$01$1@news.t-online.com>

Hello,

the picture on a.b.p.r disappeared,
"Spokesman" was asking about an unknown Sonora set.
Here is a comment from a good colleague:

"My best educated guess, first approach:
- either one of the so called "Radio Tuner"s which Sonora combined
with an Audio Amp, an AC Power Supply (25 or 60 cycles), and often a
phonograph (which was a focal point for Sonora) , late 1920's
- or probably the "D 800", TRF, 1926 , battery

It anyway is apparently a TRF, provided there are not coils hidden
underneath. Then it might be reconsidered as a Superhet, where the
oscillator is tuned by the single var.cap and RF by the dual one.
If I had a look underneath one could say more about the circuitry.
Question: is there a 6th tube? ore are only 5 tubes (sockets) there?
Is that a terminal board or a kind of receptacle at the rear (for
battery or P/S and Audio Amp hookup)?"

Spokeman, feel free to send a picture from underneath to georg at n78
dot de,
I will forward it to the colleague.

Kind Regards
Georg




Article: 339864 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz>
References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155739202.552432.236390@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:24:29 -0700
Message-ID: <h6SdnYyn3OrfKn7ZnZ2dnUVZ_o-dnZ2d@giganews.com>

> Actual nixie tubes?

Yah, I could dig seeing photos of any radio with any sort of Nixie display.

Phil "never seen one before" Nelson




Article: 339865 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:31:32 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com>

In <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> writes:

>"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message 
>news:OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net...

>> Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be 
>> mandatory.  Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken off 
>> the spool.  That would eventually make an enormous mess.

>Then how could I have made my statement about it working perfectly, as well 
>as others? Do other people here make bold statements like "it works 
>perfectly" without ever trying something once? I'm not sure if my post never 
>appeared, or exactly what happened.

<snip>

>I'm realizing as I write jak assumed I was just talking on the on the basis 
>of pure theory. That's a truly scary idea. Let me add an addendum then to 
>the last 12,000 posts I've made- if I'm saying something entirely without 
>qualification I've not only tried it bit tried it repeatedly.

   I'm not jak, but I posted more-or-less the same question not because
I don't believe you, but because I'd like to know WHY it works.  Nothing
wrong with that.  Certainly stationary unspooling of large cables causes
a problem.  So why does it work for one case and not for another?

   I started to doubt my instinct and had to think a moment to be sure I
was right that a twist was being added.  Reading further explained that
the twist simply doesn't matter below a certain diameter, I'd guess because
of the low torsional force versus applied tension.

   When someone asks questions about your methods, you don't always have
to respond with "WHAT?!! Do you think I'm LYING?"  Sometimes a simple
shrug and a "Don't know why it works, but it does" will suffice.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339866 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 17:43:13 -0700
Message-ID: <1155775393.656553.243120@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Ken G. wrote:
> I`m getting a headache now.
>
> Now you know how everyone else on planet earth feels having to see your
> 50 posts every hour .

You're a boy scout. Save it for fixing things.

Can't post 50 times an hour anyway. Fingers and Google won't let you.



Article: 339867 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:07:10 -0400
Message-ID: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com>

What relationship does the catalog pic have to the radio though?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Stromberg-Carlson-1235-console-radio-phono-16-tubes_W0QQitemZ200017267519

John H. 




Article: 339868 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <FmNEg.73092$zy5.1335800@twister1.libero.it>   <9pNEg.73094$zy5.1335669@twister1.libero.it> <1155772178.209057.142920@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Coilwinder
Message-ID: <azPEg.73436$_J1.733168@twister2.libero.it>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 01:24:22 GMT


"nesesu" ...
> Ouch, Daniele, that looks in pretty rough shape!! Mine was about 1/10
> as bad as that and I had to strip it down part by part and polish the
> steel 'bright parts' so it would all work smoothly again.  What brand
> of winder is that? It look somewhat familiar.

The counter has 'Victor' engraved on it, but actually i can't say for sure
that's the brand of the winder or about the counter only..
A small label on top says 'Apparecchiature Radioelettriche Marcucci Milano'
Marcucci was a top seller for radiotechnician equipments in the '40 and 
'50..
now it's only a big seller of expensive ham transceivers and other 
'madeinjap'
electronics.

> That is an interesting wire handler that pulls and also will rock to
> allow for winding on square forms.

I agree, that's pretty unusual, i've always seen systems supported
by springs only, this is the first one i see in this way.

> Can you please post a couple of close up photos of the wire laying
> mechanism on the back of the winder? I am wondering if it is fast
> enough to do 'Pi' winding or will just do layer winding like my AVO.

Pictures uploaded. About PI winding, i guess no, for 10 turns it moves:
Low: 1.5mm
Fast: 10mm
which results in 1 round per millimeter in fast mode (18AWG close wound).
OTOH, slow mode shows it can wind 0.15mm wires (between 34 and 35 AWG)
close wound.

> Once you get it polished up, it looks to be an excellent winding
> machine, and the motor is certainly much more powerful than the sewing
> machine one on my machine, so it has the potential to wind pretty big
> coils/transformers!

The motor is rated 125W at 4000 RPM, i will look for a variable speed 
control,
i hope those ones for sewing machines will do the work, having a foot 
controller
is very practice.

Pictures added:

http://www.junkradios.com/public/10.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/11.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/12.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/13.jpg

old pictures resuming:

http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/4.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/5.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/6.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/7.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/8.jpg
http://www.junkradios.com/public/9.jpg


-- 
 Daniele
 http://www.tuberadio.it




Article: 339869 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: 1932 RCA Radiotron Pocket Reference Book
From: Larry <noone@home.com>
Message-ID: <Xns9821DBDC1BC22noonehomecom@208.49.80.253>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:36:32 -0400

Over on alt.binaries.e-book.technical, in addition to hundreds of great old 
radio manuals, even the Beckmans, some one has posted:
1932 RCA Radiotron Pocket Reference Book
in PDF format for your reading and referencing pleasure.

Just thought you boys would like to know....
73 DE W4CSC

-- 
There's amazing intelligence in the Universe.
You can tell because none of them ever called Earth.


Article: 339870 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:38:21 -0400
Message-ID: <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com>


"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
news:ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com...

 >   When someone asks questions about your methods, you don't always have
> to respond with "WHAT?!! Do you think I'm LYING?"

" That would eventually make an enormous mess."

This is not a question it is a clear, simple declarative sentence. Wouldn't 
that make an enormous mess? Now THAT'S a question.
You find it odd that I am uncomfortable with someone making a clear 
statement- oh, you must be mistaken, that can't work- about something I do 
all the time?

John H.




From adouglasatgis.net Thu Aug 17 01:53:02 EDT 2006
Article: 339871 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Alan Douglas <adouglasatgis.net>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:28:11 -0400
Organization: NewsGuy - Unlimited Usenet $19.95
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Message-ID: <7rg7e2t48n4mkf6rueusi4vb7k4fsd5qp8@4ax.com>
References: <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>    <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>    <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>    <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>    <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>    <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <ec0c9r$r0r$1@reader2.panix.com>
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Path: news.unc.edu!elk.ncren.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!pln-e!spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news3
Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339871

Hi,
   I learned about the stationary supply spool when I worked three
summers in a motor repair shop during my college years.  Most of our
wire came in pails, not on spools, but the principle is the same. The
wire was fed from the center of the coil. Yes it adds a twist for
every turn, but trust me, it doesn't matter, on anything up to 14
gauge. I don't think we stocked anything larger than that. #18 or
thereabouts was most commonly used, and we had some half sizes too.

   I do the transformer winding where I work now.  All of our wire is
on 10 lb spools.  For the #14 I do unspool the lengths I need (there
is one transformer that takes two #14 bifilar for the primaries, 21
feet of it).  For #16 or smaller, I just take it right off the
stationary spool. And incidentally, though our winder does have that
plastic cone, I've never had occasion to need it.

Alan


Article: 339872 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "AuroraOldRadios" <menwagoh@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho
Date: 16 Aug 2006 18:54:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1155779686.466310.164750@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com>


Hagstar wrote:
> What relationship does the catalog pic have to the radio though?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Stromberg-Carlson-1235-console-radio-phono-16-tubes_W0QQitemZ200017267519
>
> John H.
That's a SAMS copy. Perhaps he has no digital camera, just a scanner.
Or maybe it's a very expensive copy of a SAMS.



Article: 339873 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "nesesu" <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Coilwinder
Date: 16 Aug 2006 19:00:28 -0700
Message-ID: <1155780028.112191.62240@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <FmNEg.73092$zy5.1335800@twister1.libero.it>

Daniele, I would have to agree that the laying mechanism, while
variable for wire size, does not have the range to do 'Pi' winding. It
is interesting that the variable ratio drive system is much like the
AVO, but the reversing bevel gear system is quite different. Are those
gears very worn like they look, or is it just the silver grease in them
that makes them look worn?
IIRC, Victor made that sort of counter as did Veeder-Root. The one on
my AVO is marked AVO, but I think it is also a Victor. I had to
disassemble it to replace a broken return spring in it so I could reset
the counter properly.

I just had a look at the foot control for my wifes Bernina, and it is
rated at 1A 115-125V which is about the 125W of your motor. The little
contoller on my winder is much smaller and I would not expect it to
handle much over a 60W motor, so there are big differences in the power
ratings of sewing machine foot contols. I realize that you have 240V
supply, but the wattage ratings will still apply.

Neil S.

Daniele wrote:
> "nesesu" ...
> > Ouch, Daniele, that looks in pretty rough shape!! Mine was about 1/10
> > as bad as that and I had to strip it down part by part and polish the
> > steel 'bright parts' so it would all work smoothly again.  What brand
> > of winder is that? It look somewhat familiar.
>
> The counter has 'Victor' engraved on it, but actually i can't say for sure
> that's the brand of the winder or about the counter only..
> A small label on top says 'Apparecchiature Radioelettriche Marcucci Milano'
> Marcucci was a top seller for radiotechnician equipments in the '40 and
> '50..
> now it's only a big seller of expensive ham transceivers and other
> 'madeinjap'
> electronics.
>
> > That is an interesting wire handler that pulls and also will rock to
> > allow for winding on square forms.
>
> I agree, that's pretty unusual, i've always seen systems supported
> by springs only, this is the first one i see in this way.
>
> > Can you please post a couple of close up photos of the wire laying
> > mechanism on the back of the winder? I am wondering if it is fast
> > enough to do 'Pi' winding or will just do layer winding like my AVO.
>
> Pictures uploaded. About PI winding, i guess no, for 10 turns it moves:
> Low: 1.5mm
> Fast: 10mm
> which results in 1 round per millimeter in fast mode (18AWG close wound).
> OTOH, slow mode shows it can wind 0.15mm wires (between 34 and 35 AWG)
> close wound.
>
> > Once you get it polished up, it looks to be an excellent winding
> > machine, and the motor is certainly much more powerful than the sewing
> > machine one on my machine, so it has the potential to wind pretty big
> > coils/transformers!
>
> The motor is rated 125W at 4000 RPM, i will look for a variable speed
> control,
> i hope those ones for sewing machines will do the work, having a foot
> controller
> is very practice.
>
> Pictures added:
>
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/10.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/11.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/12.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/13.jpg
>
> old pictures resuming:
>
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/2.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/3.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/4.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/5.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/6.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/7.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/8.jpg
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/9.jpg
> 
> 
> -- 
>  Daniele
>  http://www.tuberadio.it



Article: 339874 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jim rozen  <jim_member@newsguy.com>
Subject: Re: Atwater Kent red paint- where to get
Date: 16 Aug 2006 18:52:12 -0700
Message-ID: <ec0i4c027u@drn.newsguy.com>
References: <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com>

In article <4f8a9fe877de15068a42467b6b6b2d2e@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com>,
Pete_O says...
>
>Does anyone know where I can get red paint that matches that used on the
>metal cased AK's?  Someone mentioned it a long time ago but I didn't need
>it then.  Spray can or regular- it doesn't matter.  -Pete

Kennedy (the toolbox guys, not the radio guys...) sells it, as a touch
up paint for their red wrinkle toolboxes.

Jim


-- 
==================================================
             please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================


Article: 339875 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:19:29 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec0jnh$d41$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com>

In <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> writes:

>"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
>news:ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com...

> >   When someone asks questions about your methods, you don't always have
>> to respond with "WHAT?!! Do you think I'm LYING?"

>" That would eventually make an enormous mess."

>This is not a question it is a clear, simple declarative sentence. Wouldn't 
>that make an enormous mess? Now THAT'S a question.
>You find it odd that I am uncomfortable with someone making a clear 
>statement- oh, you must be mistaken, that can't work- about something I do 
>all the time?

   Sigh.  The original statement by jak, in context in its entirety,
was:

"Bill's setup uses a rotating supply, which I would think would be 
mandatory.  Otherwise, the wire would twist once for every turn taken 
off the spool.  That would eventually make an enormous mess."

   Where you focused on the declarative "would", I saw the uncertain
"think".

   Certainly you're within your rights to view that as a hostile
throw-down-the-gauntlet affront to your integrity.  I read it more
as somebody wondering aloud "How can this be?"

   Again, I'm not jak and don't mean to sound like I'm speaking for
him (just in case there's any more misunderstanding).  This ain't
my dog, and the only reason I piped in is I know I could at some
point, and no doubt have in the past, wondered aloud without choosing
my words with utmost care.  I'll bow out now and make sure if I ever
*do* question anything I phrase it very, very carefully...

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339876 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho
References: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com>
Message-ID: <swQEg.719$S_5.688@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 02:29:44 GMT



Hagstar wrote:

> What relationship does the catalog pic have to the radio though?

It's probably worth more.

Jeff

-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339877 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Eddie Brimer" <eb062559@aol.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 16 Aug 2006 19:32:56 -0700
Message-ID: <1155781976.633983.16450@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Ken G. wrote:
> John i use a heat gun . Put the wood plug on the bench or floor ,
> plastic on top of it then the wood frame on top of that heat the plastic
> while pushing down on the wood frame both sides with long sticks to keep
> your hands out of the heat .
> I prefer thicker plastic , it comes out nicer and flaw free . If you
> overheat it will bubble .
> Takes a half hour to make the wood parts so they are nice ( not some
> quick 2 year olds school project ) Takes a couple minutes to make the
> cover .
>
> I only do this 3 to 4 times a year .

nope... it's rocket science.  got to have a special plastic, special
oven and a vacuum chamber.  only optically perfect dialcovers are
acceptable.  i beg to differ....on all counts.



Article: 339878 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Interesting distortion
From: Larry <noone@home.com>
References: <9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04>
Message-ID: <Xns9821E64E5EB7noonehomecom@208.49.80.253>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:38:23 -0400

"Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> wrote in
news:9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04: 

> However if I connect an AM/FM tuner to the AMT-3000, it's very
> distorted through the AK.  I mean VERY distorted -- to the point where
> I thought the tuner was bad.  But I tried a second tuner and it does
> the same thing.  The gain, modulation, and compression controls do
> very little for the distortion.  AM is okay, but FM is terribly
> distorted. 
> 
> I brought my Zenith H-500 TO into the room, turned it on and the FM
> radio sounds crystal clear through it.  So the problem has to be in
> the AK, right? 
> 
> 

FM bandwidth and modulation index is proportional to audio drive.  Turn 
down the audio drive and the overmodulation, way outside even the 
cheapest FM IF strip's bandwidth, will decrease.

The trick on FM is to set the receiver to an FM broadcaster and adjust 
the audio level of your receiver to the level you like to hear.  Then, 
tune the FM receiver to your AMT-3000 and adjust the audio drive to the 
transmitter so it matches the audio level of the broadcast FM station 
WITHOUT CHANGING THE RECEIVER VOLUME CONTROL.  Your AMT-3000 is fairly 
close to broadcast station FM deviation.....close enough for government 
work....(c;

Your neighbors in range will appreciate it....(c;

-- 
There's amazing intelligence in the Universe.
You can tell because none of them ever called Earth.


Article: 339879 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: RCA 1932 Radiotron Pocket Reference Book
From: Larry <noone@home.com>
References: <p025e2dcnmn94amqcqe41418ten107old7@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <Xns9821E68F9D80noonehomecom@208.49.80.253>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:39:53 -0400

Solomon K. <Solomon@kane.com> wrote in 
news:p025e2dcnmn94amqcqe41418ten107old7@4ax.com:

> Posted in  alt.binaries.e-book.technical  if anyone is interested.
> 
> S.
> 

Thanks!  Post 'em all!....(c;



-- 
There's amazing intelligence in the Universe.
You can tell because none of them ever called Earth.


Article: 339880 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Terry S" <tschw10117@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios
Date: 16 Aug 2006 19:40:01 -0700
Message-ID: <1155782401.923778.40760@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Here is one, Phil.... on my site:

http://members.aol.com/tschw10117/Circleofsound.htm

Towards the bottom.... One of a kind.

Terry.


Phil Nelson wrote:
> > Actual nixie tubes?
>
> Yah, I could dig seeing photos of any radio with any sort of Nixie display.
> 
> Phil "never seen one before" Nelson



Article: 339881 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "wagil" <wagil@aol.com>
Subject: Moskowitz & Herbach
Date: 16 Aug 2006 19:41:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1155782474.826069.62990@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>

Has anyone any info about the Moskowitz & Herbach  kit radios built in
the 1920s?

any help/clus.info appreciated.

Wayne g



Article: 339882 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120...
From: Larry <noone@home.com>
References: <Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777@attbi_s72>
Message-ID: <Xns9821E8C50BBE8noonehomecom@208.49.80.253>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:52:55 -0400

Robert Sherrod <rtsherrod@mchsi.com> wrote in news:Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777
@attbi_s72:

> Given that this S120 will be given to the granddaughter of the 
> individual who is having it restored

How old is this granddaughter?  I'd hate to be the one to give a radio 
that's a potential lethal shock hazard, like the S-120, to any young girl 
and ultimately be responsible for her death, just for old-times-sake....

Isn't one side of the S-120's chassis hooked to the power line?  I used to 
get mild shocks off the ground screw on mine when I was "younger"...(c;




-- 
There's amazing intelligence in the Universe.
You can tell because none of them ever called Earth.


Article: 339883 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:09:29 -0400
Message-ID: <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <ec0jnh$d41$1@reader2.panix.com>

 You, Tim M., never make declarations based on nothing but speculation that 
I can recall. You're also right the "think" is modifying.

John H. 




Article: 339884 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44E3DF48.70402@socal.rr.com>
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>    <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>    <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>    <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>    <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>    <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <ec0c9r$r0r$1@reader2.panix.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 03:15:46 GMT



Tim Mullen wrote:

>    I trust you guys with the experience implicitly, so it simply
> must not matter for small diameter single-strands.

Given that a reasonable spool of magnet wire is going to be about
3" in diameter, and a field coil is about 3" in diameter, it works
out to about one twist (of the wire) per revolution.

That is a VERY fine wire, being given one full twist over a 9" or
so length.

(Note: If the wire spool is 2" in diamter, and the coil form is
3" in diamter, that adds up to about 1-1/2 twists per turn on the
form. Still neglible for that small a diamter of wire.)

Nesesu pointed out that the cross over between roll feed vs end
feed is around 24 gauge wire.

Some numbers to think about.

#34 AWG is 0.0063" in diamter or 40 circular mils.
#24 AWG is 0.0201" in diamter or 400 circular mils.
#12 AEG is 0.0808" in diamter or 6500 circular mils.

Given roughly 9" of wire to go around the coil form, the ratio
of circular mils to length (for twisting) is about 4.4 for the
#34 wire, about 45 for #24 wire and 725 for the #12 wire.

Basic physics experiment for you to try.

Take a piece of #12 AWG solid copper house wire (minus the
insulation) that is 12' long. Clamp one end in the vice and
the other end in a pair of vicegrips(tm). Give the free end
a full turn (twist). You'll find that it take little or no
effort to do this.

This is based on the ratio of the cross sectional area of the
different sized wire.

Jeff


-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339885 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 03:24:57 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec0ni9$fu0$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>    <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>    <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>    <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>    <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>    <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <ec0c9r$r0r$1@reader2.panix.com> <44E3DF48.70402@socal.rr.com>

In <44E3DF48.70402@socal.rr.com> Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com> writes:

>Given roughly 9" of wire to go around the coil form, the ratio
>of circular mils to length (for twisting) is about 4.4 for the
>#34 wire, about 45 for #24 wire and 725 for the #12 wire.

   Ah!  This makes sense.  The finer the wire the more, uh,
"leisurely" it twists.  O.K., you said it better.

>Basic physics experiment for you to try.

>Take a piece of #12 AWG solid copper house wire (minus the
>insulation) that is 12' long. Clamp one end in the vice and
>the other end in a pair of vicegrips(tm). Give the free end
>a full turn (twist). You'll find that it take little or no
>effort to do this.

   Twisting it, no.  But it sure hurt like hell holding on
to that 120VAC.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339886 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Syl" <personne@perdu.com>
References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <5988-44E3B0EF-196@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net> <1155781976.633983.16450@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <ScREg.99950$PV5.575642@wagner.videotron.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:17:19 -0400


"Eddie Brimer" <eb062559@aol.com> wrote in message

> nope... it's rocket science.  got to have a special plastic, special
> oven and a vacuum chamber.  only optically perfect dialcovers are
> acceptable.  i beg to differ....on all counts.

Not everyone is satisfied with distorted dial covers.

If you've never seen a vacuum formed dial cover then you don't
know what you're missing. Sure anyone can sandwich a piece of
transparent piece of plastic between two pieces of plywood.
Been there, done that. But there is a better way.

No one ever said your technique isn't acceptable, on the contrary,
but like everything else in life, if you put the effort and the technique,
you invariably get better results.

You should know, look at the effort you invested in the mirror dial
and the results you got...

Syl 




Article: 339887 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Russian/Eastern European wire radios
References: <1155694056.661947.156260@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <caIEg.7393$Ji1.4217@trnddc05>
Message-ID: <4UREg.723$S_5.67@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 04:03:12 GMT



Gary Tayman wrote:

> I don't think the original reason for wire radios had to do with reception. 
> Rather, it was a means of ensuring that most citizens would listen to Soviet 
> propaganda rather than to broadcasts from overseas that might lead them to 
> believe that things are better on the other side of the curtain.  Of course 
> they may have used the reception issue as an excuse . . .

Wire line "radio" has TWO advantages.
1. mandatory content.
2. cost

Jeff

-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339888 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho
Date: 16 Aug 2006 21:15:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1155788141.304570.8070@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com>


Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> Hagstar wrote:
>
> > What relationship does the catalog pic have to the radio though?
> 
> It's probably worth more.

That's probably for auction too.



Article: 339889 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120...
Date: 16 Aug 2006 21:16:58 -0700
Message-ID: <1155788218.751792.185890@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777@attbi_s72>


Larry wrote:
> Robert Sherrod <rtsherrod@mchsi.com> wrote in news:Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777
> @attbi_s72:
>
> > Given that this S120 will be given to the granddaughter of the
> > individual who is having it restored
>
> How old is this granddaughter?  I'd hate to be the one to give a radio
> that's a potential lethal shock hazard, like the S-120, to any young girl
> and ultimately be responsible for her death, just for old-times-sake....
>
> Isn't one side of the S-120's chassis hooked to the power line?  I used to
> get mild shocks off the ground screw on mine when I was "younger"...(c;

We can tell where that led...



Article: 339890 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting distortion
Date: 16 Aug 2006 21:18:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1155788305.851553.192070@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04>


Larry wrote:
> "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> wrote in
> news:9xLEg.70210$MW.15404@trnddc04:
>
> > However if I connect an AM/FM tuner to the AMT-3000, it's very
> > distorted through the AK.  I mean VERY distorted -- to the point where
> > I thought the tuner was bad.  But I tried a second tuner and it does
> > the same thing.  The gain, modulation, and compression controls do
> > very little for the distortion.  AM is okay, but FM is terribly
> > distorted.
> >
> > I brought my Zenith H-500 TO into the room, turned it on and the FM
> > radio sounds crystal clear through it.  So the problem has to be in
> > the AK, right?
> >
> >
>
> FM bandwidth and modulation index is proportional to audio drive.  Turn
> down the audio drive and the overmodulation, way outside even the
> cheapest FM IF strip's bandwidth, will decrease.
>
> The trick on FM is to set the receiver to an FM broadcaster and adjust
> the audio level of your receiver to the level you like to hear.  Then,
> tune the FM receiver to your AMT-3000 and adjust the audio drive to the
> transmitter so it matches the audio level of the broadcast FM station
> WITHOUT CHANGING THE RECEIVER VOLUME CONTROL.  Your AMT-3000 is fairly
> close to broadcast station FM deviation.....close enough for government
> work....(c;
>
> Your neighbors in range will appreciate it....(c;

Jimi Hendrix might've dug it though.



Article: 339891 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <ec0jnh$d41$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com>
Message-ID: <eeSEg.61233$vj1.8551@bignews5.bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:28:00 -0500

Hagstar wrote:
>  You, Tim M., never make declarations based on nothing but speculation that 
> I can recall. You're also right the "think" is modifying.
> 
> John H. 
> 
> 
> 
I just checked back in to find the apparent mess I made.  I haven't 
posted much here in the last three years.  I guess this is why.  Tim, 
thank you for the kind words, you were absolutely right.

John, sorry to have offended you.  I'll just go back in my hole now.  I 
should have read the thread more closely, and posted more clearly...or 
not at all.

jak



Article: 339892 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio
Date: 16 Aug 2006 21:37:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1155789462.253599.237560@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebu6rs0tie@news4.newsguy.com>


Jim Berg wrote:
> Scott: Some of those Zenith exports are listed in Rider under chassis
> number.

It's a wood GE radio.



Article: 339893 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jim Land <RrrrFfffTttt(NO)@(SPAM)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 05:21:45 -0000
Message-ID: <Xns98223B053848RrrrFfffTttt4396hotm@216.168.3.44>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <EaCdnfZeoPnEgXzZnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155688857.749094.312170@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>

"Engineer" <analogdino@rogers.com> wrote in news:1155688857.749094.312170
@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:

> Or use two back to back LED's

Huh?


Article: 339894 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: 16 Aug 2006 22:26:18 -0700
Message-ID: <1155792378.202072.198070@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>


Jim Land NO SPAM wrote:
> "Engineer" <analogdino@rogers.com> wrote in news:1155688857.749094.312170
> @m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:
>
> > Or use two back to back LED's
>
> Huh?

Where exactly were you gonna USE the lighting and why won't a small
neon bulb work?

Maybe I missed that.



Article: 339895 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: 16 Aug 2006 22:30:20 -0700
Message-ID: <1155792620.666449.139230@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>


William Sommerwerck wrote:
> > A mS of thought will tell you that the series resistor
> > gives no PIV protection.
>
> ms (millisecond), not mS (millisiemen).

One's time another ain't, M$ definitely gives no PIF protection and MS.
is a feminist issues magazine. At least I know I like pickled artichoke
spears.



Article: 339896 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: Black and White Radio for Ken G. In Idaho
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:04:37 -0600
Message-ID: <29940-44E406F5-90@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net>
References: <12e7ga796tu3sf8@corp.supernews.com>

Thanks for the heads up ... but .. AKKK i see those ``door radios`` at
yard sales and thrift shops and get many phone calls from people trying
to sell those right here in town . I think Idaho stores must have sold
50 thousand of those .
I have one right now with the same exact dial but the doors are on top (
lids) to repair for someone who loves it .

I got a phone call tonight and went & got a RCA 105K console 10 blocks
>from home .. dont know why i did .  



Article: 339897 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 00:47:34 -0600
Message-ID: <29939-44E41106-316@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1155775393.656553.243120@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>

 
Can't post 50 times an hour anyway. Fingers and Google won't let you.

Can i say something lacking in craftsmanship :-)  



Article: 339898 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:09:00 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec14mc$r1p$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <ec0jnh$d41$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com> <eeSEg.61233$vj1.8551@bignews5.bellsouth.net>

In <eeSEg.61233$vj1.8551@bignews5.bellsouth.net> jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:

>I just checked back in to find the apparent mess I made.  I haven't 
>posted much here in the last three years.  I guess this is why.  Tim, 
>thank you for the kind words, you were absolutely right.

>John, sorry to have offended you.  I'll just go back in my hole now.  I 
>should have read the thread more closely, and posted more clearly...or 
>not at all.

    It was a tempest in a teacup, really.  Flipping around to the
other side, I'd describe John as "passionate", s'all.  And that
passion has some damn good sides to it.

   Post away!  Look at the good that came from this thread -- we got
the definitive answer that 1) Yes, the wire will be twisted, and 2)
It doesn't matter beyond a certain gauge because of the large ratio
of length-per-twist to wire diameter.

   Can't speak for anyone else, but I'd been wondering for a long
time what was going on there.  Thanks, y'all!

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339899 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:20:46 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec15ce$seg$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155775393.656553.243120@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <29939-44E41106-316@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net>

In <29939-44E41106-316@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) writes:

>Can't post 50 times an hour anyway. Fingers and Google won't let you.

>Can i say something lacking in craftsmanship :-)  

   Were but that it would do some good. :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339900 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:33:28 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec1647$seg$2@reader2.panix.com>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <3347-44E0B3A3-35@storefull-3177.bay.webtv.net> <EaCdnfZeoPnEgXzZnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@comcast.com> <1155688857.749094.312170@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <Xns98223B053848RrrrFfffTttt4396hotm@216.168.3.44>

In <Xns98223B053848RrrrFfffTttt4396hotm@216.168.3.44> Jim Land <RrrrFfffTttt(NO)@(SPAM)hotmail.com> writes:

>"Engineer" <analogdino@rogers.com> wrote in news:1155688857.749094.312170
>@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:

>> Or use two back to back LED's

>Huh?     __|/|__
          | |\| |
       ---|     |---
          |_|\|_|
            |/|

   Same idea he mentioned as using a parallel protection diode, just
make the diode an LED instead.

   Not like I'd trust this, but all diodes will avalanche at some
point when reverse biased and exhibit a zener effect.  If the series
resistor is large enough and the reverse current small enough it
might survive without the added protection of a parallel diode.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339901 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Rick Fears <rfears@nospambtinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT)
Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:22:05 GMT
Message-ID: <Xns98225F539FC1Erfwplighting@129.250.170.82>
References: <Xns981FE01AE8E05rfwplighting@129.250.170.90> <1155639358.064138.235100@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <3aiEg.2498$9v1.222@trnddc07>

"Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> wrote in
news:3aiEg.2498$9v1.222@trnddc07: 

> I think he means -- "lift-able" top.  The wood lid that lifts up to
> expose the fact that there's no turntable inside.
> 
> By the way, there was originally concern that this subject is
> off-topic. Why?  This is indeed an antique phono.  My hope is that he
> may find a turntable motor that fits correctly, turning this into a
> nice unit. 
> 
> 
> 

Yes, I did mean liftable - fingers got tangled up...

Under that lid is a cut-out shelf that clearly used to have a turntable 
of some sort on it.

The reason I thought the post might have been somewhat off-topic was that 
there was no electrical/electronic component to the item and as this was 
my first post to the group I checked for any discussions on the group FAQ 
and found a slightly flamey thread and thought I might tread on toes if I 
didn't suggest the possibility that I might be off topic. Glad to know 
I'm not!

I will eventually get around to putting up some photos of the item on 
some web site or other - I'll get back to the group when I have done so.

Many thanks to all for your replies

Regards

Rick.


Article: 339902 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 03:34:18 -0700
Message-ID: <1155810858.822279.144920@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155775393.656553.243120@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>


Tim Mullen wrote:
> In <29939-44E41106-316@storefull-3232.bay.webtv.net> goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) writes:
>
> >Can't post 50 times an hour anyway. Fingers and Google won't let you.
>
> >Can i say something lacking in craftsmanship :-)
>
>    Were but that it would do some good. :)

It's not like you all post a lot when I'm up...not like you post at
all. My "world domination plan" is an optical delusion. And I slept til
4 pm and hadn't posted much for almost two hours while I worked on this
thing.



Article: 339903 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT)
Date: 17 Aug 2006 03:47:03 -0700
Message-ID: <1155811623.532127.192170@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <Xns981FE01AE8E05rfwplighting@129.250.170.90>

Just don't mention 8-****** unless they are used as sculpture items,
i.e. the lady in the crafts group somebody found that used them in the
base of a lamp (lime green Jethro Tull tapes look rather pretty)...



Article: 339904 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "flashbk13" <flashbk13@hotmail.com>
Subject: crt tester advice
Date: 17 Aug 2006 04:22:26 -0700
Message-ID: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

Hi all,
I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I
see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that
will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great.
Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the
sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as
well. Thank you, Rick.



Article: 339905 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Eddie Brimer" <eb062559@aol.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 04:02:51 -0700
Message-ID: <1155812571.664370.241690@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


Syl wrote:
> "Eddie Brimer" <eb062559@aol.com> wrote in message
>
> > nope... it's rocket science.  got to have a special plastic, special
> > oven and a vacuum chamber.  only optically perfect dialcovers are
> > acceptable.  i beg to differ....on all counts.
>
> Not everyone is satisfied with distorted dial covers.
>
> If you've never seen a vacuum formed dial cover then you don't
> know what you're missing. Sure anyone can sandwich a piece of
> transparent piece of plastic between two pieces of plywood.
> Been there, done that. But there is a better way.
>
> No one ever said your technique isn't acceptable, on the contrary,
> but like everything else in life, if you put the effort and the technique,
> you invariably get better results.
>
> You should know, look at the effort you invested in the mirror dial
> and the results you got...
>
> Syl

distorted dialcovers?? never seen a problem.  they look better than
original probably. the mirrors are a little different scale from a
molded plastic dialcover don't you think? most of these are going in
20.00-50.00 radios anyway.  most nice radios didn't have plastic
dialcovers.



Article: 339906 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mike Koste" <michael.koste@zurichna.com>
Subject: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: 17 Aug 2006 05:13:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

Can't say I've ever seen one of these before:

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPARTON-Table-Tube-Radio-ART-DECO-Glass-TOP-shelf-WORKS_W0QQitemZ130017750671QQihZ003QQcategoryZ38034QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Mike Koste
Gobs of Knobs
Ambler, PA



Article: 339907 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: ag564@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Dan  Beaton)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 12:32:55 GMT
Message-ID: <ec1nln$o7l$1@theodyn.ncf.ca>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>


> can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? 

Works fine for me, although it did take a few seconds to load. I use MS 
Internet Explorer.
Dan

(This account is not used for email.)





Article: 339908 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
Subject: Has anyone heard from OTRCAT?
Message-ID: <ypZEg.62839$hH1.3458@trnddc08>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:36:46 GMT

Last month I got an e-mail from OTRCAT, stating they have an updated CD set 
of Command Performance.  So I ordered it.  No response.  I e-mailed and 
inquired.  No response.  I have since e-mailed Jon a few more times with 
only silence.  This is not like him; usually he's excellent.  Has anyone 
heard from him lately?  Is he okay?



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com




Article: 339909 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Ken <wklwns@cox.net>
Subject: Re: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block
References: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <XVGEg.816$Tl4.729@dukeread06> <1155751118.964275.240040@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <RGZEg.1154$Tl4.153@dukeread06>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 08:54:58 -0400

So you're OK?

m82a1pa wrote:

> Appreciate it, Ken.  I've located a 3615-X which is the 7 lugger -
> needed a few more lugs on it.
> 



Article: 339910 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "the MAGNATE" <analog@epix.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 04:19:52 -0700
Message-ID: <1155813592.244475.63520@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


jakdedert wrote:
> Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> > Peter Wieck wrote:
> >> 60s junk then, 60s junk now.
> >>
> > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very
> > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so
> > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more
> > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood.
> >
> OTOH, when Pioneer wanted a killer speaker, they hired away JBL's chief
> designer to come up with the HPM series...flagship offering being the
> HPM 100.  This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the
> JBL L-100's (designed by the same fellow), which were among the most
> popular speakers of the time.  I've got a pair of these and they're
> brilliant.  The cab's are nearly 1 1/2" thick, generously braced
> internally; carbon fiber woofers...kick serious butt at all volumes.
> Each speaker weighs in at around 60 lbs. and listed for something like
> $800 a pair in 1977 dollars.
>
> As the decade closed, they began to use cheaper materials and cheapen
> the design...becoming more like the Japanese speakers you describe.  The
> later HPM series were not the same.
>
> jak


I have a pair of run of the mill Sonys that weigh 55 pounds each.   You
don't have to spend that kind of money to get a good speaker anymore.
You can get high end vintage stuff on the cheap, that is BETTER than
what's in the stores now- and what's in the stores now is ALSO going
very cheaply.  The market is saturated.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&item=140018503480&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

JBL's were over-rated.  No one in this area even bothered with them.
Great for going deaf playing them outside at a drunken keg party during
 a NASCAR race or clambake or something- that's about it.



Article: 339911 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "the MAGNATE" <analog@epix.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 04:22:26 -0700
Message-ID: <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> Peter Wieck wrote:
> > 60s junk then, 60s junk now.
> >
> More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very
> much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so
> it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more
> conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood.
>
> As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific
> rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where
> USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard
> a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any
> US no-name manufacturer could produce.
>
> The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but
> when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless.
> The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker
> elements for other manufacturers.
>
> -Scott


You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics.
ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from the 1970's
onward.  Marantz, Pioneer, Yamaha, Technics, Kenwood, Sony, JVC were
all made in Japan.  As well as all the high-end Akai-Pioneer-Sony-Teac
reel to reels and component tape decks.

Are you saying they can't build a speaker if they wanted to ?

Yeh, right....



Article: 339912 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 04:31:36 -0700
Message-ID: <TbWdnZCLftgMznnZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com>

> You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics.
> ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from
> the 1970's onward.

Audio Research? Crown? Krell? conrad/johnson? etc, etc, etc


> Are you saying they can't build a speaker if they wanted to?

Wanting to is not the same as knowing how to.




Article: 339913 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: John Bachman <johnREMOVE@anatek.REMOVEmv.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:41:19 -0400
Message-ID: <r1l8e21vcleth8mo1cu7sjadhfl3021e1i@4ax.com>
References: <1155771054.857090.15200@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <5988-44E3B0EF-196@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net>

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:57:35 -0600, goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) wrote:

>John i use a heat gun . Put the wood plug on the bench or floor ,
>plastic on top of it then the wood frame on top of that heat the plastic
>while pushing down on the wood frame both sides with long sticks to keep
>your hands out of the heat . 
>I prefer thicker plastic , it comes out nicer and flaw free . If you
>overheat it will bubble . 
>Takes a half hour to make the wood parts so they are nice ( not some
>quick 2 year olds school project ) Takes a couple minutes to make the
>cover .
>
>I only do this 3 to 4 times a year .

Ahhh.   When I first started making dial covers I tried using a heat
gun to touch up defects that came out of the oven/vacuum forming
machine I had built.  I immediately ran into the bubbling problem.  I
found it very difficult to use a heat gun and avoid bubbles and gave
up on that technique.  You were apparantly more perserverent than I.

I ended up rebuilding my oven/vacuum forming machine three times
before I got it right.  Now it works great.  Eddie is right, it may
not be rocket science but it sure has a lot of detail to it.  I like
the resin molds as I can get a super-smooth finish.

I try to match the original cover thickness unless the customer wants
something else.  Most are 0.020" but a few are thicker.

I am just finishing up a Philco 41-605 which has been a good
challenge.  It is approximately 7" X 4" including mounting flange. The
mold is nearly done and I expect to try my first shot at it today.

John
reproduction dialcovers at
www.anatekcorp.com/dialcovers/dialcovers.htm
.


Article: 339914 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: John Bachman <johnREMOVE@anatek.REMOVEmv.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 10:25:30 -0400
Message-ID: <t1v8e2p0p7flbis1b6pjbd8sqnp3s313vu@4ax.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>

On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:21:35 GMT, "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
wrote:

>
>"jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote in message 
>news:xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>>
>> If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to 
>> "JOHN D" who reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website. 
>> Apparently JOHN D is the first to report any problem opening the site to 
>> Bill.  FWIW, the site opens fine for me.
>>
>> jim menning
>
>Okay, let's get this straight once and for all.  Bill has sent me e-mails 
>several times, and has mentioned the website, www.dialcover.com, with each 
>one.  I have tried many, many times, including today, and have never been 
>able to access it.  When I've responded to Bill about it, he says I'm the 
>only one that's ever had a problem.
>
>Now John D is the only one that's having a problem.  Apparently some of us 
>are getting it fine.  So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we 
>can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? 
>What are you using for browser?  Does anyone have suggestions as to why it 
>cannot be viewed by some computers?
>
>For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon 
>(both DSL).  I'm running Windows XP.  I've tried Verizon's own browser, 
>along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla.  Doesn't work with any 
>of 'em.
Fine for me.  Using XP and Firefox.

John


Article: 339915 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 08:04:35 -0400
Message-ID: <12e8mqu2ub5ooad@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <ec0jnh$d41$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com> <eeSEg.61233$vj1.8551@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <ec14mc$r1p$1@reader2.panix.com>


"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
news:ec14mc$r1p$1@reader2.panix.com...
> In <eeSEg.61233$vj1.8551@bignews5.bellsouth.net> jakdedert 
> <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:
 >
>    It was a tempest in a teacup, really.

Exactly, jak, ignore me about 50% :)

John H. 




Article: 339916 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:21:35 GMT


"jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote in message 
news:xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to 
> "JOHN D" who reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website. 
> Apparently JOHN D is the first to report any problem opening the site to 
> Bill.  FWIW, the site opens fine for me.
>
> jim menning

Okay, let's get this straight once and for all.  Bill has sent me e-mails 
several times, and has mentioned the website, www.dialcover.com, with each 
one.  I have tried many, many times, including today, and have never been 
able to access it.  When I've responded to Bill about it, he says I'm the 
only one that's ever had a problem.

Now John D is the only one that's having a problem.  Apparently some of us 
are getting it fine.  So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we 
can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? 
What are you using for browser?  Does anyone have suggestions as to why it 
cannot be viewed by some computers?

For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon 
(both DSL).  I'm running Windows XP.  I've tried Verizon's own browser, 
along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla.  Doesn't work with any 
of 'em.



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com




Article: 339917 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:39:10 -0500
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
From: John Stone <jmsent2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C109CD9E.53ADF%jmsent2@comcast.net>
References: <1155645743.312388.168950@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <asu3e29shg5f9jng1f94cde6l3d305p278@4ax.com> <1155679748.474995.186400@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <h1vEg.484$sM1.127@read1.cgocable.net> <C1087ED3.53776%jmsent2@comcast.net> <1155767299.218479.16180@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>




On 8/16/06 5:28 PM, in article
1155767299.218479.16180@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com, "the MAGNATE"
<analog@epix.net> wrote
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> The JVC's I do not know about. I have
>>> never listened to them.
>> 
>> I have. They're awful. Just look at the configuration of the drivers.
>> There's no acoustical design expertise at all to these.
> 
> 
> the cabinets are made better than the average speaker of today- I mean
> what is consumer grade today ?? tiny surround sound POS speakers
> 
Well, those JVC's were certainly not meant to be "average" speakers back
then. So try comparing apples to apples and compare them to a nice floor
standing speeaker made today. There are plenty available. Then tell me
what's "better" about the JVC cabinets.
Bigger? Sure. Uglier? Absolutely. But most good modern floor speakers use at
least 1" MDF rather than plywood, and cabinet walls are routinely braced,
which was seldom the case back then. In those days, the Japanese did little
more than cheap imitations of JBL's, Altecs, and so on. 



Article: 339918 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl>
Subject: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 15:21:44 +0100
Message-ID: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>

Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to
the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it
wobbling ?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/






Article: 339919 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Message-ID: <RlZEg.62837$hH1.2798@trnddc08>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:32:49 GMT

Gee, that's not a half bad looking unit!

Most chairsides I've seen are small, cheap, and ugly.  One exception -- I 
used to have a Zenith chairside that actually was a cool radio -- it had 
wraparound louvers, and a glass top with the black dial underneath.  It had 
the tuning knob (weighted) and four other knobs.  I no longer have it, and 
have never seen one since, however I have seen a similar one with three 
knobs, arranged triangularly, instead of four.  I suppose I had a pretty 
decent set that I should not have gotten rid of.

However there is a very good reason why I did get rid of it.  It goes, as I 
recall, on the right side of the chair.  It requires of course a wall 
outlet, and an external antenna.  Regardless of whether it fits the room 
decor, it seems every place I have ever tried to put it, it seems impossible 
to arrange the room around it in such a way that it fits correctly, and 
doesn't have wires dangling across the floor.  At the time (about 15 years 
ago) I had trouble giving it away.  Now it's probably worth something 
astronomical?



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com



"Mike Koste" <michael.koste@zurichna.com> wrote in message 
news:1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Can't say I've ever seen one of these before:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/SPARTON-Table-Tube-Radio-ART-DECO-Glass-TOP-shelf-WORKS_W0QQitemZ130017750671QQihZ003QQcategoryZ38034QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> Mike Koste
> Gobs of Knobs
> Ambler, PA
> 




Article: 339920 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com
Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio
Date: 17 Aug 2006 05:42:40 -0700
Message-ID: <1155818560.173803.207010@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <ebu6rs0tie@news4.newsguy.com>

I got the model number...it is X 457
http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/general_el_x_457.html
Unfortunately no schematics...not even at nostalgiaair air...
anybody now where can get one?
Thanks..
=====================
Steven wrote:
> Jim Berg wrote:
> > Scott: Some of those Zenith exports are listed in Rider under chassis
> > number.
> 
> It's a wood GE radio.



Article: 339921 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <IMZEg.73440$zy5.1341474@twister1.libero.it>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:01:28 GMT


"Gary Tayman"

> let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't?

I can

> What are you using for browser?

M$ Internet explorer 6.0.2900.2180.xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-2158
M$ Windows XP SP2 basic installation (no updates), included
firewall has been disabled.
ISDN 64K connected.
Since i run it with Sygate Personal Firewall and Kaspersky Anti Virus 6
i use explorer with safety settings at LOW, this because some
websites were impossible to be opened also in MED-LOW mode.
For M$ Wondows users i suggest to open the command console (that sort of 
fake DOS)
and edit: PING WWW.DIALCOVER.COM
check the answer, i got:
Packets: sent=4, received=4, lost=0
Answers time: min= 237ms, max= 2474ms, med= 815ms
*NOTE= time extimated from Italy, you should get less time in ms.

Check received packets, if you're getting ALL 4 then the trouble is your 
browser;
if you get less, 3 or 2 or 1 packet, than the trouble is usually by the ISP;
if you get no answer packets the trouble could be your ISP but more often
is due by incorrect settings/working firewalls.

XP users: if you get all 4 answers but your browser will not display the 
website
you may check also:
- security options, try setting them at LOW level;
- XP services: the browser is not able to resolve DNS addresses, check the 
related
  service is activated in something like 'Administrating Services' (control 
panel folder)
  option SERVICES (two gears icon); in the same folder you'll find the 
option
  named something like 'Events Wiever' (squared icon), choose it, if the 
service has
  been activated it will show you correct and incorrect events log.

Options name could be different, sorry, i'm trying to translate them, my XP 
is in italian.

Hope this helps.

-- 
 Daniele     ^___^
 http://www.tuberadio.it




Article: 339922 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <22%Eg.4765$zg.985@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:28:14 GMT


"Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> wrote in message 
news:jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08...
>

>
> For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon (both 
> DSL).  I'm running Windows XP.  I've tried Verizon's own browser, along with 
> Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla.  Doesn't work with any of 'em.
>

Windows XP with all the updates, MS Internet explorer 
6.0.2900.2180.xpsp_sp2_gdr.050301-1519.

Never had a problem with Bill's site.

jim menning






Article: 339923 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Bob <balbert3@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>
Message-ID: <ah%Eg.62856$hH1.36561@trnddc08>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:44:22 GMT

N Cook wrote:
> Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to
> the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it
> wobbling ?
> 
> --
> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
> http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
> 
> 
> 
> 
Use glue.  That's what held it in place in the first place.  I have used 
ordinary cement, like Duco, with success.

Bob


Article: 339924 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 06:44:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1155822289.324969.210630@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


the MAGNATE wrote:
> Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> > Peter Wieck wrote:
> > > 60s junk then, 60s junk now.
> > >
> > More like 70s junk......Japanese speaker design in that era was very
> > much of the "let's put a lot of different sized speakers in a big box so
> > it looks impressive" ilk. 1960s Japanese speakers were more
> > conventional, kinda sorta like KLH speakers without the quality hardwood.
> >
> > As most of the consumer audio business gravitated toward the pacific
> > rim, this is the one area of mass-produced consumer electronics where
> > USA manufacturers remained competitive and respected. I have NEVER heard
> > a speaker system from Japan that sounded even as good as units that any
> > US no-name manufacturer could produce.
> >
> > The Japanese put out some fairly decent sounding gear in the 1970s, but
> > when it came to speaker design they were almost universally clueless.
> > The only exception was Pioneer, and then only as a supplier of speaker
> > elements for other manufacturers.
> >
> > -Scott
>
>
> You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics.
> ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from the 1970's
> onward.  Marantz, Pioneer, Yamaha, Technics, Kenwood, Sony, JVC were
> all made in Japan.  As well as all the high-end Akai-Pioneer-Sony-Teac
> reel to reels and component tape decks.
>
> Are you saying they can't build a speaker if they wanted to ?
>
> Yeh, right....

Charlie Nudo, why did you threaten me, tell me to name the time and
place and when I did you suddenly became a coward?

Why did you go overboard over something that happened on Usenet?

Why did you call my wifes employer?

Why did you harrass an innocent woman?

Why did you say you were going to contact her boss over a flamewar
between you and I?

Why did you post her work phone number and tell people to call her at
work?

What kind of person does these things? Charlie Nudo does.



Article: 339925 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Ken <wklwns@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>
Message-ID: <_y%Eg.1161$Tl4.1095@dukeread06>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 11:03:07 -0400

Super glue is very good, fairly heat resistant. Epoxy is better, and 
furnace cement is best, but hard to get in the groove because of the 
grit. Ken
N Cook wrote:

> Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to
> the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it
> wobbling ?
> 
> --
> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
> http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
> 
> 
> 
> 



Article: 339926 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:03:37 -0700
Message-ID: <1155827017.399206.5230@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


William Sommerwerck wrote:
> Wanting to is not the same as knowing how to.

William, you are preaching to the invincibly ignorant (and also stupid
as it happens). Nudo is not receiving the proper shock and awe over his
crap, is being treated as the pariah he is base on his dealings, and
does not seem to be willing to understand the smallest differences
between "quantity" and "quality". BIG = BETTER, and OLD must
necessarily be GOOD. 

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339927 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:10:01 -0700
Message-ID: <1155827401.888880.326220@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


jakdedert wrote:

> HPM 100.  This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the
> JBL L-100's

I remember both of these. I agree that they were very, very similar.
But absolutely not to my taste. 'Nuff said.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339928 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:11:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


jakdedert wrote:

> HPM 100.  This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the
> JBL L-100's

I remember both of these. I agree that they were very, very similar.
But absolutely not to my taste. 'Nuff said.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339929 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Carter Cook" <cartercook@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:20:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1155828054.110654.209060@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>


A few months ago, I found an attractive looking chairside case in a
junk shop. The radio chassis and speaker were missing. I could tell
>from the shape of the knob cutouts and the surviving plastic bezel that
the original radio inside was a Belmont/Airline. A later, close
inspection in my shop revealed that the case was skillfully custom made
by a woodworker in his home shop.

>From the looks of the case I had, I'd say the plans were probably
published in some late 30s or early 40s woodworking publication.

Perhaps the Sparton was also a home shop project.



Article: 339930 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:32:48 -0700
Message-ID: <1155828768.630072.199090@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


N Cook wrote:
> Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to
> the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it
> wobbling ?
>

Gap-filler Super Glue ("ZAP" brand is best) is fast and easy for
onesies-twosies. If you have a bunch of them, get high-temp epoxy at an
automotive supply (JB Weld is a common US brand), mix up a batch and
have-at.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339931 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44e48dde$0$4518$e4fe514c@news.xs4all.nl>
From: maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>
Date: 17 Aug 2006 15:40:14 GMT

Gary Tayman <caradio@verizon.net> wrote:
> Now John D is the only one that's having a problem.  Apparently some of us 
> are getting it fine.  So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we 
> can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? 
> What are you using for browser?  Does anyone have suggestions as to why it 
> cannot be viewed by some computers?

I can get it perfectly fine from The Netherlands, using Opera for a 
browser. The HTML code looks conservative enough to work in any old 
browser. It must be some sort of network issue, apparently.

-- 
Met vriendelijke groet,

Maarten Bakker.


Article: 339932 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "m82a1pa" <mldenison@suscom.net>
Subject: Re: WTB: Philco Bakelite Cap Block
Date: 17 Aug 2006 08:54:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1155830049.484247.302420@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155735532.576360.280300@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

Sorry, Ken.  Didn't make that too clear.  I'm OK 'cause I needed a six
lugger and found one of those.  I do appreciate it, however.



Article: 339933 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steve McVoy" <etf@columbus.rr.com>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
Date: 17 Aug 2006 09:17:11 -0700
Message-ID: <1155831431.025807.108050@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

That set uses the 7JP4. I don't know of a tester that will test that
tube, but you can make an adapter using a base from a standard tube
with wires going to the filament, cathode, control grid and second grid
of the 7JP4. An excellent 7JP4 will read only about 3 (full scale being
10).

However, I've tested a bunch of 7JP4s in this way, and have found that
there is not necessarily a correlation between the reading on the
tester and how good the tube looks. The only certain way to test the
tube is to restore the set, or try the tube in a good set.



lashbk13 wrote:
> Hi all,
> I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I
> see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that
> will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great.
> Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the
> sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as
> well. Thank you, Rick.



Article: 339934 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
References: <ebu6rs0tie@news4.newsguy.com>   <14718-44E384DF-29@storefull-3111.bay.webtv.net>   <1155789462.253599.237560@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155818560.173803.207010@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: please help to identify this wood GE radio
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:51:16 -0400
Message-ID: <w_2dnTAL5c4xAHnZnZ2dnUVZ_sOdnZ2d@comcast.com>

as I was thinking.... X is for EXPORT model in GE.

Q is the code for RCA.

I think E was used by some other manf's... cant remember if Zenith used
that.  I've only seen one Zenith export model, someone on this NG pointed it
out about 4 years ago I think, it was on eBay and went fairly cheap.

E in Detrola model code means "with eye tube" however.

Mark Oppat



<siliconvalleyEE@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1155818560.173803.207010@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
> I got the model number...it is X 457
> http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/general_el_x_457.html
> Unfortunately no schematics...not even at nostalgiaair air...
> anybody now where can get one?
> Thanks..
> =====================
> Steven wrote:
> > Jim Berg wrote:
> > > Scott: Some of those Zenith exports are listed in Rider under chassis
> > > number.
> >
> > It's a wood GE radio.
>
>





Article: 339935 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:03:53 GMT

flashbk13 wrote:
> Hi all,
> I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I
> see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that
> will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great.
> Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the
> sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as
> well. Thank you, Rick.
> 


Why not just test the CRT in the set? There's not too many faults that 
won't be apparent.


Article: 339936 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>
Message-ID: <ul1Fg.66613$u05.64908@trnddc01>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:05:30 GMT

N Cook wrote:
> Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to
> the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it
> wobbling ?
> 
> --
> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
> http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
> 
> 
> 
> 


I had this problem with a couple of them, I dribbled superglue around 
the base being careful not to get it on the outside and then them 
tightly together for several minutes and set it aside to cure. Seems to 
be holding up so far.


Article: 339937 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: It speaks!
References: <Z6TDg.56392$u05.8958@trnddc01> <zHuEg.297$FY6.112@newsfe11.lga>
Message-ID: <5o1Fg.66614$u05.36976@trnddc01>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:08:17 GMT

Sal Brisindi wrote:
> Hi James,
> Hows things? Congratulations purchasing and repairing your 1st tube 
> radio although you fixed many other items in your life. I promise you 
> one thing, 1 or 2 radios is not enough... :-)
> 
> Regards,
> Sal Brisindi
> 


Things have been good in general, I'm excited to make further progress 
on this thing but I've been limited to an evening or two a week, life, 
work and other things tend to keep me from my hobbies far too often. You 
wouldn't believe the queue of projects I have stacked up, or maybe you 
would, I suspect it's the same way for you.

Got any recommendations for an antenna for this thing? I noticed there's 
three terminals on the back, one is apparently ground, the other two are 
connected to a piece of thin stranded zipcord that was on the set when I 
got it. Obviously there's better solutions.


Article: 339938 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Chris F." <zappymanNOSPAM@hotmail.com>
References: <YkNEg.49176$pu3.579271@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca> <ouNEg.73420$_J1.732783@twister2.libero.it>
Subject: Re: Telefunken Schematic
Message-ID: <WO1Fg.50740$pu3.588888@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:36:54 GMT

Similar, except my chassis also has an ECL86. The name on this is Sonata, 
not Allegro.

"Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it> wrote in message 
news:ouNEg.73420$_J1.732783@twister2.libero.it...
>
> "Chris F."
>> Does anyone have, or know where I can find, a schematic for a Telefunken 
>> 5183wk console?
>> Thanks.
>
> Is this the Allegro Stereo HiFi 5183W?
> Tubeline ECC85 ECH81 EBF89 EBC91 EM84 ECC83 EL84 ?
>
> -- 
> Daniele     ^___^
> http://www.tuberadio.it
>
> 




Article: 339939 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <RlZEg.62837$hH1.2798@trnddc08>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:42:04 -0500
Message-ID: <44e49d44$0$6832$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>

"Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> wrote in message 
news:RlZEg.62837$hH1.2798@trnddc08...
>At the time (about 15 years ago) I had trouble giving it away.  Now it's 
>probably worth something astronomical?

Um, yeah. I don't have my Zenith books handy but from the description that 
sounds like a 10S147 and it's a $300+ radio nowadays.

-p. 



-- 
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



Article: 339940 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 10:42:51 -0700
Message-ID: <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com>

A visitor to my website sent this photo of one a couple of years ago.

http://antiqueradio.org/art/temp/chairside.jpg

The photo came from a now-defunct radio museum in Kentucky. The visitor said 
he was looking at an identical radio in New Mexico. So we know there are at 
least three :-)

If you search for "genuine Sparton chairside" in the Google archives of this 
group, you'll find a further discussion.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.antiques.radio+phono?hl=en

Apparently a model 578. The design may be reverse-painted glass.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html




Article: 339941 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Tom Mills" <tsmills@pstel.net>
Subject: Stromberg dial scale help needed
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:59:03 -0400
Message-ID: <44ednQtVHNHxM3nZnZ2dnUVZ_s6dnZ2d@trueband.net>

I'm looking for a Stromberg Carlson 430M dial scale scan.  I have one that 
the glass is broken and one half missing.  I could post a picture on 
binaries if needed?  Any help will be greatly appreciated.
-- 
Tom Mills




Article: 339942 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
Subject: DH Distributors...anyone had contact lately????
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:33:25 -0400
Message-ID: <5IOdnTcYWf8BKHnZnZ2dnUVZ_vOdnZ2d@comcast.com>

David Headley at DH Distributors in Wichita, KS makes capacitor cans for the
Jukebox trade, mostly, but also sells other parts including the repro '42
Zenith dial cover (or did).   I have been calling his phone for weeks with
no answer.  Sent a letter, no reply.   Anyone heard anything about him?  We
were discussing a China-direct capacitor bulk  purchase some months ago.

Mark Oppat





Article: 339943 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Repairing a Majestic G-2 Field Coil
References: <1155510291.100534.62260@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <1155522425.889539.77000@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155527466.100713.263600@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>   <0jo1e2l284ignfreg11qndagpejljhkah7@4ax.com>   <c0lEg.22419$8j3.1322@twister.nyroc.rr.com>   <1155657111.996398.312570@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <12e4hrahvbf96a5@corp.supernews.com>   <c8s4e2hggl7skp9vtgj85h9lpofd0n1ndf@4ax.com> <1155699299.468243.275680@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <OYFEg.17241$Nx4.14649@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <12e6v01klbdn933@corp.supernews.com> <ec0dd4$1h9$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7i4mchlcia66@corp.supernews.com> <ec0jnh$d41$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e7nfherk5ie81@corp.supernews.com> <eeSEg.61233$vj1.8551@bignews5.bellsouth.net> <ec14mc$r1p$1@reader2.panix.com> <12e8mqu2ub5ooad@corp.supernews.com>
Message-ID: <LC2Fg.29293$Uq1.13046@bignews6.bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:33:46 -0500

Hagstar wrote:
> "Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
> news:ec14mc$r1p$1@reader2.panix.com...
>> In <eeSEg.61233$vj1.8551@bignews5.bellsouth.net> jakdedert 
>> <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:
>  >
>>    It was a tempest in a teacup, really.
> 
> Exactly, jak, ignore me about 50% :)
> 
> John H. 
> 
> 
> 
Thanks.

jak



Article: 339944 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com>   <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 13:41:04 -0500

Peter Wieck wrote:
> jakdedert wrote:
> 
>> HPM 100.  This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the
>> JBL L-100's
> 
> I remember both of these. I agree that they were very, very similar.
> But absolutely not to my taste. 'Nuff said.
> 
> Peter Wieck
> Wyncote, PA
> 
> 
Yeah...this has gone pretty far off-topic (mostly because of the 
x-posting).  I just wanted to point out that there were respectful (and 
respected) Japanese speakers built in the 70's.

Taste is a whole other issue.

jak



Article: 339945 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 16:17:13 -0400
Message-ID: <12e9jmmb94s7061@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

 The current high bidder is our own Jeff A.

John H. 




Article: 339946 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Martin Leese <please@see.Web.for.e-mail.INVALID>
Subject: Technics turntable tonearm lowering
Message-ID: <vF4Fg.9905$Nz6.4253@edtnps82>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 20:51:39 GMT

Hi,

I have a vintage Technics SL-1500 turntable.
This is a manual turntable, and you raise and
lower a lever to raise and lower the tonearm.
This mechanism was damped, so that if you
lowered the lever quickly the tonearm was still
lowered gently.  This was achieved with a metal
tube filled with silicone grease.

OK, the silicone grease has leaked out over the
decades, so the lowering mechanism is no longer
gentle.  I have tried re-filling the metal tube
with ordinary silicone grease, but it wasn't
thick enough.

 From where can I obtain grease thick enough to
work in the damper for the manual tonearm
lowering mechanism?

-- 
Many thanks,
Martin Leese
E-mail: please@see.Web.for.e-mail.INVALID
Web: http://members.tripod.com/martin_leese/


Article: 339947 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 15:56:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Technics turntable tonearm lowering
From: John Stone <jmsent2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C10A4213.53B29%jmsent2@comcast.net>
References: <vF4Fg.9905$Nz6.4253@edtnps82>

On 8/17/06 3:51 PM, in article vF4Fg.9905$Nz6.4253@edtnps82, "Martin Leese"
<please@see.Web.for.e-mail.INVALID> wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I have a vintage Technics SL-1500 turntable.
> This is a manual turntable, and you raise and
> lower a lever to raise and lower the tonearm.
> This mechanism was damped, so that if you
> lowered the lever quickly the tonearm was still
> lowered gently.  This was achieved with a metal
> tube filled with silicone grease.
> 
> OK, the silicone grease has leaked out over the
> decades, so the lowering mechanism is no longer
> gentle.  I have tried re-filling the metal tube
> with ordinary silicone grease, but it wasn't
> thick enough.
> 
>  From where can I obtain grease thick enough to
> work in the damper for the manual tonearm
> lowering mechanism?

Check out this place:

http://www.turntablebasics.com/silicone.html



Article: 339948 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <YkNEg.49176$pu3.579271@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca> <ouNEg.73420$_J1.732783@twister2.libero.it> <WO1Fg.50740$pu3.588888@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Re: Telefunken Schematic
Message-ID: <M15Fg.73936$zy5.1345922@twister1.libero.it>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:17:32 GMT

I have some references with others 'Sonata' but all of them have a couple
of ECL86 so the tubeline would be
ECC85 ECH81 EBF89 EBC91 EM84 ECC83 ECL86 ECL86
Tell me if it may be of help.

-- 
 Daniele     ^___^
 http://www.tuberadio.it



"Chris F." <zappymanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio 
news:WO1Fg.50740$pu3.588888@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
> Similar, except my chassis also has an ECL86. The name on this is Sonata, 
> not Allegro.
>
> "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it> wrote in message 
> news:ouNEg.73420$_J1.732783@twister2.libero.it...
>>
>> "Chris F."
>>> Does anyone have, or know where I can find, a schematic for a Telefunken 
>>> 5183wk console?
>>> Thanks.
>>
>> Is this the Allegro Stereo HiFi 5183W?
>> Tubeline ECC85 ECH81 EBF89 EBC91 EM84 ECC83 EL84 ?
>>
>> -- 
>> Daniele     ^___^
>> http://www.tuberadio.it
>>
>>
>
>
> 




Article: 339949 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:51:32 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2od4$mrr$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>

In <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> writes:

>Now John D is the only one that's having a problem.  Apparently some of us 
>are getting it fine.  So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we 
>can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? 
>What are you using for browser?  Does anyone have suggestions as to why it 
>cannot be viewed by some computers?

   Works for me.  Lynx on Solaris from 166.84.167.79.

>For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon 
>(both DSL).  I'm running Windows XP.  I've tried Verizon's own browser, 
>along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla.  Doesn't work with any 
>of 'em.

   I can see him via Qwest's looking glass in Tampa.  Couldn't find
an LG for Verizon.  Maybe there's a reason for that? :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339950 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jfeng@my-deja.com
Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120...
Date: 17 Aug 2006 14:59:39 -0700
Message-ID: <1155851979.377216.15090@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777@attbi_s72>

Larry wrote:
> Isn't one side of the S-120's chassis hooked to the power line?  I used to
> get mild shocks off the ground screw on mine when I was "younger"...(c;
>

If I were doing the restoration work, I would retrofit an isolation
transformer.



Article: 339951 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:04:39 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2p5n$mrr$2@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <TbWdnZCLftgMznnZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com>

In <TbWdnZCLftgMznnZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com> "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes:

>> You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics.
>> ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from
>> the 1970's onward.

>Audio Research? Crown? Krell? conrad/johnson? etc, etc, etc

   Adcom, Levinson, Pass, Aragon, VTL, etc, etc, etc...

   Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters
and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339952 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:17:11 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com>

In <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz> writes:

>Apparently a model 578. The design may be reverse-painted glass.

   Description says it is.  The auction also claims "THERE ARE
SPEAKERS ON BOTH THE FRONT AND BACK".  I doubt this; I'd guess
the backside grille cloth is there for ventilation, or to make
the design symmetrical.  Which is kind of odd, since the radio
would likely be positioned against a wall where you couldn't
see the back.

   Neat set.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339953 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:18:32 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2pvo$mrr$4@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <12e9jmmb94s7061@corp.supernews.com>

In <12e9jmmb94s7061@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> writes:

> The current high bidder is our own Jeff A.

   Hey, Jeff -- if ya get it you better hope nobody ships a
machinist's vise in that Greyhound along with your radio. :) :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339954 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <IMZEg.73440$zy5.1341474@twister1.libero.it>
Subject: I pinged it, it panned it
Message-ID: <l86Fg.70612$zc2.10485@trnddc06>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:32:49 GMT

I did the ping and the response was, cannot find www.dialcover.com.


Poor Bill.



-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com



"Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it> wrote in message 
news:IMZEg.73440$zy5.1341474@twister1.libero.it...
>
> "Gary Tayman"
>
>> let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't?
>
> I can
>
>> What are you using for browser?
>
> M$ Internet explorer 6.0.2900.2180.xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-2158
> M$ Windows XP SP2 basic installation (no updates), included
> firewall has been disabled.
> ISDN 64K connected.
> Since i run it with Sygate Personal Firewall and Kaspersky Anti Virus 6
> i use explorer with safety settings at LOW, this because some
> websites were impossible to be opened also in MED-LOW mode.
> For M$ Wondows users i suggest to open the command console (that sort of 
> fake DOS)
> and edit: PING WWW.DIALCOVER.COM
> check the answer, i got:
> Packets: sent=4, received=4, lost=0
> Answers time: min= 237ms, max= 2474ms, med= 815ms
> *NOTE= time extimated from Italy, you should get less time in ms.
>
> Check received packets, if you're getting ALL 4 then the trouble is your 
> browser;
> if you get less, 3 or 2 or 1 packet, than the trouble is usually by the 
> ISP;
> if you get no answer packets the trouble could be your ISP but more often
> is due by incorrect settings/working firewalls.
>
> XP users: if you get all 4 answers but your browser will not display the 
> website
> you may check also:
> - security options, try setting them at LOW level;
> - XP services: the browser is not able to resolve DNS addresses, check the 
> related
>  service is activated in something like 'Administrating Services' (control 
> panel folder)
>  option SERVICES (two gears icon); in the same folder you'll find the 
> option
>  named something like 'Events Wiever' (squared icon), choose it, if the 
> service has
>  been activated it will show you correct and incorrect events log.
>
> Options name could be different, sorry, i'm trying to translate them, my 
> XP is in italian.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> -- 
> Daniele     ^___^
> http://www.tuberadio.it
>
> 




Article: 339955 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:34:00 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2qso$rui$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <ec2od4$mrr$1@reader2.panix.com>

In <ec2od4$mrr$1@reader2.panix.com> Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com> writes:

>In <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> writes:

>>Now John D is the only one that's having a problem.  Apparently some of us 
>>are getting it fine.  So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we 
>>can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't? 
>>What are you using for browser?  Does anyone have suggestions as to why it 
>>cannot be viewed by some computers?

>   Works for me.  Lynx on Solaris from 166.84.167.79.

   Re-reading my post I realized this was not the most helpful.

   Figure it out this way: You can see other sites, right?  So your
browser isn't broken.  Other people, including me, can see Bill's
site, so his server isn't broken.

   That (usually) leaves the stuff in between.  I can see Bill's
server using another ISP in Tampa, so the problem is =probably=
your ISP not passing traffic to his ISP.  Routing's fouled up
somewhere.

   OTOH, you're on a Microsoft box, where heaven knows what can
go wrong.  If you have another one of those benighted things in
your house, try it.  Although if you did you probably would've
tried it already.

   As Daniele suggested, can you ping 216.111.184.2 (dialcover.com)?

   Which reminds me of another basic troubleshooting step: use
IP numbers instead of names to rule out DNS problems.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339956 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "flashbk13" <flashbk13@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
Date: 17 Aug 2006 15:37:28 -0700
Message-ID: <1155854247.942810.159320@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

Thanks all for the replies,  Rick
jim menning wrote:
> "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01...
> > flashbk13 wrote:
> >> Hi all,
> >> I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I
> >> see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that
> >> will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great.
> >> Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the
> >> sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as
> >> well. Thank you, Rick.
> >>
> >
> >
> > Why not just test the CRT in the set? There's not too many faults that won't be
> > apparent.
>
> The 7JP4 CRTs are getting quite difficult (expensive) to find in good condition.  It
> is wise to test the tube before going through the expense of rebuilding the set, and
> then discovering the CRT is bad.
> 
> jim menning



Article: 339957 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa)
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>
Message-ID: <Lg6Fg.906591$084.13406@attbi_s22>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:41:47 GMT

In article <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>, caradio@verizon.net says...
>
>
>
>who can get it and who can't? 
>What are you using for browser?  Does anyone have suggestions as to why it 
>cannot be viewed by some computers?
>Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical


Hi Gary... I use Windoze XP with all the updates.. Browsers is Microsofts 
Explorer and Netscape... 

In Explorer ...  if I type in Dialcover.com and hit the go button it AIN"T 
THERE... however if I type in WWW.Dialcover.com and hit the go button
the site comes up perfectly... 

Don't ask me what the difference is... most websites.... Microshits IE
knows enough to put in the HTTP and the WWW ... but for some reason
on Bill's site... it can't find it without the WWW inserted by me.. 

Using Netscape 4.78 if I type in dialcover.com I get some page about 
Overlin.net that sure isn't what I wanted. If I type in www.dialcover.com
It searches and searches forever for the website... and comes up with 
NOTHING... something about check with site administrator or some other
such crap... If I type in http://www.dialcover.com/ Viola... It finds
the page... and it comes up ... but its hosed up... Bill's picture
is at the top next to the nice lady picture.. below that are a bunch
of clickable links to the other pages.. all the other pages also are a little 
hosed up but there... so site isn't built to be viewed properly by Netscape 
Older 4.78 version ... 

John k9uwa





Article: 339958 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: I pinged it, it panned it
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:44:23 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2rg6$so8$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <IMZEg.73440$zy5.1341474@twister1.libero.it> <l86Fg.70612$zc2.10485@trnddc06>

In <l86Fg.70612$zc2.10485@trnddc06> "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> writes:

>I did the ping and the response was, cannot find www.dialcover.com.

   Try pinging 216.111.184.2.

   If that works, here's how to talk to a web server by hand (for
anyone else who's curious, too):

     gothicdigital.com>21# telnet 216.111.184.2 80

We're connecting to his address on port 80, the usual port number
used by HTTP servers.  You'll get a response like this:

     Trying 216.111.184.2...
     Connected to 216.111.184.2.
     Escape character is '^]'.

Now type:

     GET /

This asks for the root (index) page.  For Bill's site I get back:

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
<head>
   <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
   <meta name="Author" content="Poge Smit">
   <meta name="GENERATOR" content="Mozilla/4.7 [en] (Win98; U) [Netscape]">
   <title>Oberlin.net Home</title>
</head>
<body>

<center><a href="http://www.oberlin.net/indexold.html"><img SRC="oberlin_net1.gif" BORDER=0 height=470 width=664></a></center>

</body>
</html>

   This is a good way to see what's going on because it doesn't rely on
*any* web browser.  If you get a response that looks like decent html
code (just eyeball it) but you still can't display the page in your browser,
then you know it's a problem with your browser.

   However, it sounds like you can't even get that far, yet.  If you can't
ping his address, you definitely have a network problem.  But beware!  Not
all sites respond to a ping.  Bill's does, however.  Can you ping me
(166.84.167.79)?  I do allow pings.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339959 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01> <QK1Fg.4780$zg.3053@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <ro6Fg.73655$MW.26106@trnddc04>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:49:59 GMT

jim menning wrote:
> "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
> news:Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01...
> 
>>flashbk13 wrote:
>>
>>>Hi all,
>>>I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I
>>>see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that
>>>will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great.
>>>Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the
>>>sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as
>>>well. Thank you, Rick.
>>>
>>
>>
>>Why not just test the CRT in the set? There's not too many faults that won't be 
>>apparent.
> 
> 
> The 7JP4 CRTs are getting quite difficult (expensive) to find in good condition.  It 
> is wise to test the tube before going through the expense of rebuilding the set, and 
> then discovering the CRT is bad.
> 
> jim menning 
> 
> 


That's a shame, can they be rebuilt, or are there any suitable subs? In 
my experience CRTs in general are quite forgiving to substitution though 
I have much less experience with the old electrostatic type.


Article: 339960 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:54:44 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2s3k$1on$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <Lg6Fg.906591$084.13406@attbi_s22>

In <Lg6Fg.906591$084.13406@attbi_s22> k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa) writes:

>In Explorer ...  if I type in Dialcover.com and hit the go button it AIN"T 
>THERE... however if I type in WWW.Dialcover.com and hit the go button
>the site comes up perfectly... 

>Don't ask me what the difference is... most websites.... Microshits IE
>knows enough to put in the HTTP and the WWW ... but for some reason
>on Bill's site... it can't find it without the WWW inserted by me.. 

   You're right, John!
 
   The address I looked up for dialcover.com (216.111.184.2) is actually
the main address of Oberlin.net's web server.  It then feeds you a page
based on the requested *name*.  This is used to conserve addresses.

   Heh.  So much for not bothering with web browsers. :)  Regardless,
Bill's site should accept www.dialcover.com OR dialcover.com.  That's
broken behavior, IMHO.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339961 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 16:25:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Tim Mullen wrote:
> In <TbWdnZCLftgMznnZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com> "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes:
>
> >> You will have a hard time discrediting the Japanese on electronics.
> >> ALL of the high end USA stereo amps were made by them from
> >> the 1970's onward.
>
> >Audio Research? Crown? Krell? conrad/johnson? etc, etc, etc
>
>    Adcom, Levinson, Pass, Aragon, VTL, etc, etc, etc...
>
>    Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters
> and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers.

Just it--I don't. Nearest one, other than Greif's Music (guitar amps)
is The Stereo Shoppe in Boise...ptuiee.

Greif's uses an old Hitachi AM/FM stereo/quad cassette phono changer
console for store music.



Article: 339962 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Hallicrafters S120...
Date: 17 Aug 2006 16:27:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1155857233.968997.103310@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <Tb9Eg.135478$1i1.52777@attbi_s72>


jfeng@my-deja.com wrote:
> Larry wrote:
> > Isn't one side of the S-120's chassis hooked to the power line?  I used to
> > get mild shocks off the ground screw on mine when I was "younger"...(c;
> >
>
> If I were doing the restoration work, I would retrofit an isolation
> transformer.

Don't attach the ground with AC available...jumping jiminy!



Article: 339963 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "wagil" <wagil@aol.com>
Subject: aluminium tuning caps
Date: 17 Aug 2006 16:31:45 -0700
Message-ID: <1155857505.361397.38750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Does anyone know the year that aluminium tuning caps were first mass
marketed and used.

I'm aware some tuning caps were made from brass, does anyone know of
any being made from other metals?

Any help/info appreciated

Wayne g



Article: 339964 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 23:46:47 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2v56$5a9$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <Lg6Fg.906591$084.13406@attbi_s22> <ec2s3k$1on$1@reader2.panix.com> <44E4F9F1.E5B1284F@earthlink.net>

In <44E4F9F1.E5B1284F@earthlink.net> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:

>   There could be a DNS problem at Gary's ISP.

   No, John was right.  It's the way Bill's ISP handles HTTP requests.
Every customer get's the same address, the web server sends different
pages based on the reqested domain *name*.  This is becoming more common
in order to conserve IP addresses.  The old way was to give every
customer a seperate IP for their web site.

   If you do a whois on dialcover.com (you don't need the www for a
whois), it tells me the authoritative nameserver:

   Domain Name: DIALCOVER.COM

   Domain servers in listed order:

   NS01.OBERLIN.NET             216.111.184.2
   NS02.OBERLIN.NET             216.111.184.3

   Connecting to the first nameserver:

gothicdigital.com>31# nslookup 
Default Server:  167-79.nyc.dsl.access.net
Address:  166.84.167.79

> server 216.111.184.2
Default Server:  server01.oberlin.net
Address:  216.111.184.2

   If I ask for the address for dialcover.com:

> dialcover.com
Server:  server01.oberlin.net
Address:  216.111.184.2

Name:    dialcover.com
Address:  216.111.184.2

   Or www.dialcover.com:

> www.dialcover.com
Server:  server01.oberlin.net
Address:  216.111.184.2

Name:    www.dialcover.com
Address:  216.111.184.2

   I get the same answer, that of the primary web server (and nameserver)!
Looks like all roads lead to Rome. :)  There's nothing wrong with the way
they're doing things, except for their web server not responding to
dialcover.com the same way as www.dialcover.com.  Although not strictly
required, in this day and age I think it makes sense to treat them the
same.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339965 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 23:51:07 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec2vdb$5a9$2@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>    <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>    <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com>    <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>    <TbWdnZCLftgMznnZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com>    <ec2p5n$mrr$2@reader2.panix.com> <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

In <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> writes:


>Tim Mullen wrote:
>> In <TbWdnZCLftgMznnZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com> "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes:
>>
>>    Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters
>> and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers.

>Just it--I don't. Nearest one, other than Greif's Music (guitar amps)
>is The Stereo Shoppe in Boise...ptuiee.

   So?  Go to Boise once every ten years.  Not like there's any need
to replace a decent modern amp more often than that, unless you have
lots of bucks or like making life difficult for yourself.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339966 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Ken <wklwns@cox.net>
Subject: Signal Corps TG-34-A Keyer Tape
Message-ID: <Lj7Fg.1201$Tl4.75@dukeread06>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 19:53:00 -0400

I have one of these tapes to give away, postage only. Ken
wklw AT cox DOT coM



Article: 339967 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 16:53:41 -0700
Message-ID: <1155858821.152448.200500@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08>


Gary Tayman wrote:
> "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >
> > If you look at the posting tree, you'll see that Bill was responding to
> > "JOHN D" who reported that he was having trouble accessing Bill's website.
> > Apparently JOHN D is the first to report any problem opening the site to
> > Bill.  FWIW, the site opens fine for me.
> >
> > jim menning
>
> Okay, let's get this straight once and for all.  Bill has sent me e-mails
> several times, and has mentioned the website, www.dialcover.com, with each
> one.  I have tried many, many times, including today, and have never been
> able to access it.  When I've responded to Bill about it, he says I'm the
> only one that's ever had a problem.
>
> Now John D is the only one that's having a problem.  Apparently some of us
> are getting it fine.  So -- in an effort to help out Bill, ensuring that we
> can all view his website, let's be honest -- who can get it and who can't?
> What are you using for browser?  Does anyone have suggestions as to why it
> cannot be viewed by some computers?
>
> For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon
> (both DSL).  I'm running Windows XP.  I've tried Verizon's own browser,
> along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla.  Doesn't work with any
> of 'em.

Either you or your providers blacklisted something, but since you can
e-mail him, it's not your email. Check you hosts files, etc. make sure
your browser isn't set to no cookies or some ridiculous Puritan setting
and report back.



Article: 339968 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Martin Leese <please@see.Web.for.e-mail.INVALID>
Subject: Re: Technics turntable tonearm lowering
References: <vF4Fg.9905$Nz6.4253@edtnps82> <C10A4213.53B29%jmsent2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <yl7Fg.10148$Nz6.5695@edtnps82>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 23:55:10 GMT

John Stone wrote:

> On 8/17/06 3:51 PM, in article vF4Fg.9905$Nz6.4253@edtnps82, "Martin Leese"
> <please@see.Web.for.e-mail.INVALID> wrote:
...
>>  From where can I obtain grease thick enough to
>> work in the damper for the manual tonearm
>> lowering mechanism?
> 
> Check out this place:
> 
> http://www.turntablebasics.com/silicone.html

Holy barracudas, Batman, this place is a
gold mine.  Thanks John.

-- 
Regards,
Martin Leese
E-mail: please@see.Web.for.e-mail.INVALID
Web: http://members.tripod.com/martin_leese/


Article: 339969 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 17:03:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1155859414.734202.257220@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


Tim Mullen wrote:
> In <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> writes:
>
>
> >Tim Mullen wrote:
> >> In <TbWdnZCLftgMznnZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com> "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes:
> >>
> >>    Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters
> >> and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers.
>
> >Just it--I don't. Nearest one, other than Greif's Music (guitar amps)
> >is The Stereo Shoppe in Boise...ptuiee.
>
>    So?  Go to Boise once every ten years.  Not like there's any need
> to replace a decent modern amp more often than that, unless you have
> lots of bucks or like making life difficult for yourself.

No need. I get amps I like swimming past the house after a rainstorm.
Thrifts and the auction barn are your FRIEND, remember? I have 37 years
of Pioneers floating around and an early sixties headphone splitter
>from them and that AM/FM portable radio I gave a friend last Christmas
to show for that. Utah, Pioneer and Altec speakers, not to mention the
"reject" pair of Optimus towers I got for a quarter and run in the
bedroom on the quad alarm clock with the Utahs. TWO reel to reel decks
under 5 dollar and FREE. I'm not going into a list again...I simply
don't need nearly all that stuff they sell when what I need is here
already and slowly being fixed.



Article: 339970 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 17:07:57 -0700
Message-ID: <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com>

> the backside grille cloth is there for ventilation, or to make
> the design symmetrical.  Which is kind of odd, since the radio
> would likely be positioned against a wall where you couldn't
> see the back.

I would guess both ventilation and symmetry. And many chairs are set out in 
the middle of a room, where you might see some or all of the back grille.

Phil Nelson






Article: 339971 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 17 Aug 2006 17:11:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1155859869.398633.22970@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


Peter Wieck wrote:
> N Cook wrote:
> > Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the wires to
> > the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it
> > wobbling ?
> >
>
> Gap-filler Super Glue ("ZAP" brand is best) is fast and easy for
> onesies-twosies. If you have a bunch of them, get high-temp epoxy at an
> automotive supply (JB Weld is a common US brand), mix up a batch and
> have-at.
>
> Peter Wieck
> Wyncote, PA

I tried to glue an antenna mount on a receiver (because it's a Philips
and where do I get that style of AM antenna for 22AH794A04-- anyway)
and it seems the electrical tape wrapping is stronger than JB Weld
(yes, I repaired it while OFF the receiver with the cable intact and
let it sit for a couple days, then tried again. I don't know what you
repair with it normally, but I haven't a clue why they sell it. It
seems to be as worthless as $1 superglue and 10x as expensive.

???



Article: 339972 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01> <QK1Fg.4780$zg.3053@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ro6Fg.73655$MW.26106@trnddc04>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
Message-ID: <wG7Fg.5626$zg.4626@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 00:17:32 GMT


"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
news:ro6Fg.73655$MW.26106@trnddc04...
> jim menning wrote:
>> "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
>> news:Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01...
>>
>>>flashbk13 wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi all,
>>>>I have a 1948 motorolla tv model #VT71B-A (has 6 inch round tube). I
>>>>see several crt testers on ebay, but have no idea what type to get that
>>>>will test this type of small crt. Any info on whch type would be great.
>>>>Also any info. on this model TV would be great. Does anyone have the
>>>>sams manual or schematics for this tv? You can email me directly as
>>>>well. Thank you, Rick.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Why not just test the CRT in the set? There's not too many faults that won't be 
>>>apparent.
>>
>>
>> The 7JP4 CRTs are getting quite difficult (expensive) to find in good condition. 
>> It is wise to test the tube before going through the expense of rebuilding the 
>> set, and then discovering the CRT is bad.
>>
>> jim menning
>
>
> That's a shame, can they be rebuilt, or are there any suitable subs? In my 
> experience CRTs in general are quite forgiving to substitution though I have much 
> less experience with the old electrostatic type.

They can be rebuilt, but the cost often exceeds the value of the set it would go in. 
I think Hawkeye may be the last to offer this service.  No substitutions as far as I 
know, unless you want a green picture using a scope tube.

jim menning 




Article: 339973 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <IMZEg.73440$zy5.1341474@twister1.libero.it> <l86Fg.70612$zc2.10485@trnddc06> <ec2rg6$so8$1@reader2.panix.com>
Subject: Re: I pinged it, it panned it
Message-ID: <DI7Fg.74034$zy5.1346830@twister1.libero.it>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 00:19:47 GMT


"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com>

>
>   Try pinging 216.111.184.2.
>
>   If that works, here's how to talk to a web server by hand (for
> anyone else who's curious, too):
>
>     gothicdigital.com>21# telnet 216.111.184.2 80

8<---- [cut]

Hey! This is the 'Advanced' chapter!

-- 
 Daniele
 http://www.tuberadio.it




Article: 339975 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 00:22:55 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec318v$f61$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <Lg6Fg.906591$084.13406@attbi_s22> <ec2s3k$1on$1@reader2.panix.com> <44E4F9F1.E5B1284F@earthlink.net> <ec2v56$5a9$1@reader2.panix.com> <44E5020E.F7850725@earthlink.net>

In <44E5020E.F7850725@earthlink.net> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:

>   I had to dump one ISP because I couldn't access some servers.  Their
>DNS server would tell me it was a bad name or just hang, but I could use
>NetZero or Free-I and hit them all with no problem on any of my
>computers that had a modem.  When the ISP insisted the problem was in
>all four of my computers, I closed the account.

   Certainly it =could= be a problem with Gary's ISP's nameserver,
which is why I first try a raw IP address.  The way I showed to
query the destination nameserver directly will always give you the
correct IP, even if your ISP's nameserver is hosed, as you encountered.

   However, in the case of Bill's site there's a catch: because of
the way Bill's ISP handles multiple customers running off the same
webserver, you can't type an IP in a browser and get Bill's page.
You *have* to use a domain name.  One way around this, to avoid
possible problems with your ISP's nameserver, would be to add the
desired destination to your /etc/host file (and make sure your name
resolver uses it!).

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339976 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
References: <ypZEg.62839$hH1.3458@trnddc08>
Subject: Re: Has anyone heard from OTRCAT?
Message-ID: <SN7Fg.70619$zc2.46176@trnddc06>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 00:25:22 GMT

Just to let everyone know, I indeed got a response.




-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com



"Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net> wrote in message 
news:ypZEg.62839$hH1.3458@trnddc08...
> Last month I got an e-mail from OTRCAT, stating they have an updated CD 
> set of Command Performance.  So I ordered it.  No response.  I e-mailed 
> and inquired.  No response.  I have since e-mailed Jon a few more times 
> with only silence.  This is not like him; usually he's excellent.  Has 
> anyone heard from him lately?  Is he okay?
>
>
>
> -- 
> Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
> Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
> http://www.taymanelectrical.com
>
> 




Article: 339977 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 17 Aug 2006 17:33:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1155861188.185315.55560@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


Steven wrote:

> I tried to glue an antenna mount on a receiver (because it's a Philips
> and where do I get that style of AM antenna for 22AH794A04-- anyway)
> and it seems the electrical tape wrapping is stronger than JB Weld
> (yes, I repaired it while OFF the receiver with the cable intact and
> let it sit for a couple days, then tried again. I don't know what you
> repair with it normally, but I haven't a clue why they sell it. It
> seems to be as worthless as $1 superglue and 10x as expensive.
>
> ???

Takes (at least) 24 hours to cure, is temperature dependent... but will
hold a punctured radiator for 100,000 miles. It will also hold a metal
gear cracked at the hub (after appropriate filing, of course) taking
considerable torque, and still in service.

So, it seems that you did not mix it correctly, or did not read the
directions fully. Both seem equally likely.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 339978 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 00:33:46 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec31ta$lpi$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>    <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>    <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com>    <1155813745.947802.66440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>    <TbWdnZCLftgMznnZnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@comcast.com>    <ec2p5n$mrr$2@reader2.panix.com>    <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>    <ec2vdb$5a9$2@reader2.panix.com> <1155859414.734202.257220@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

In <1155859414.734202.257220@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> writes:

>Tim Mullen wrote:
>> In <1155857115.705928.22400@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> writes:
>>
>> >Tim Mullen wrote:
>> >>
>> >>    Hell, walk into any stereo store that doesn't also sell toasters
>> >> and there's a wall full of USA-made amplifiers.
>>
>> >Just it--I don't. Nearest one, other than Greif's Music (guitar amps)
>> >is The Stereo Shoppe in Boise...ptuiee.
>>
>>    So?  Go to Boise once every ten years.  Not like there's any need
>> to replace a decent modern amp more often than that, unless you have
>> lots of bucks or like making life difficult for yourself.

>No need. I get amps I like swimming past the house after a rainstorm.
>Thrifts and the auction barn are your FRIEND, remember? I have 37 years
>of Pioneers floating around and an early sixties headphone splitter
>from them and that AM/FM portable radio I gave a friend last Christmas
>to show for that. Utah, Pioneer and Altec speakers, not to mention the

<snip>

   You are a master of the non-sequitur.

   A mention earlier in this thread about USA-made vs. Japanese amplifiers
brought a response from me and William that there are many, many brands
of quality amplifiers made here.  In addition I mentioned they're widely
available.  You followed this with what I took to be a tacit complaint
that the nearest store to you is in Boise.

   If you're happy with what you have that's the best of all worlds.
But then why in the world did you feel the need to say the nearest store
is in Boise you're not even looking for one?

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339979 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 00:38:56 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec326v$lpi$2@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com> <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com>

In <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com> "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz> writes:

[I said]

>> the backside grille cloth is there for ventilation, or to make
>> the design symmetrical.  Which is kind of odd, since the radio
>> would likely be positioned against a wall where you couldn't
>> see the back.

>I would guess both ventilation and symmetry. And many chairs are set out in 
>the middle of a room, where you might see some or all of the back grille.

   "Coffee table???  Oh, you mean chairside radio!"

   That's what I've always used for a coffee table. :)  This one
looks a bit tall for that, though.  No, scratch that.  I just
checked the auction again: 19.5" high.  Yeah, that'd work.  This
babe would be perfect, in fact.

   Oh, Jeff.....  {just kidding :}

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339980 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: I pinged it, it panned it
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 00:43:04 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec32eo$pll$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <IMZEg.73440$zy5.1341474@twister1.libero.it> <l86Fg.70612$zc2.10485@trnddc06> <ec2rg6$so8$1@reader2.panix.com> <DI7Fg.74034$zy5.1346830@twister1.libero.it>

In <DI7Fg.74034$zy5.1346830@twister1.libero.it> "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it> writes:

>"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com>

>>   Try pinging 216.111.184.2.
>>
>>   If that works, here's how to talk to a web server by hand (for
>> anyone else who's curious, too):
>>
>>     gothicdigital.com>21# telnet 216.111.184.2 80

>8<---- [cut]

>Hey! This is the 'Advanced' chapter!

   Heh.  Well, my methods were correct, but used in the wrong place! :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339981 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 20:47:51 -0400
Message-ID: <12ea3i48k3ifud4@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com> <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com>

 In the early days radios were obviously designed by men without women's 
input. Hence bizarre things like chairsides, which as Mike pointed out
are often very difficult to actually situate in a room with antenna, etc. 
without arranging the room around the radio. Then one day, the remote 
appeared. Early wired remote sets like my Grunow 1101 however were and are 
poorly accepted by the Gigantic Black Dial crowd.

John H. 




Article: 339982 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 00:49:27 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec32qn$pll$2@reader2.panix.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>    <1155828768.630072.199090@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>    <1155859869.398633.22970@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155861188.185315.55560@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

In <1155861188.185315.55560@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com> writes:

>Steven wrote:

>> I tried to glue an antenna mount on a receiver (because it's a Philips
>> and where do I get that style of AM antenna for 22AH794A04-- anyway)
>> and it seems the electrical tape wrapping is stronger than JB Weld
>> (yes, I repaired it while OFF the receiver with the cable intact and
>> let it sit for a couple days, then tried again. I don't know what you
>> repair with it normally, but I haven't a clue why they sell it. It
>> seems to be as worthless as $1 superglue and 10x as expensive.
>>
>> ???

>Takes (at least) 24 hours to cure, is temperature dependent... but will
>hold a punctured radiator for 100,000 miles. It will also hold a metal
>gear cracked at the hub (after appropriate filing, of course) taking
>considerable torque, and still in service.

>So, it seems that you did not mix it correctly, or did not read the
>directions fully. Both seem equally likely.

   To add to what Peter said, make sure the surfaces are CLEAN.
Superglues like a smooth surface, epoxies can benefit from roughening
the mating parts with a file or ememery cloth.  The last thing I do
before applying ANY adhesive is swab the surfaces with alcohol to
remove any grease from your fingers.

   Put down that bag of chips! :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 339983 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 20:49:38 -0400
Message-ID: <12ea3lf9cov2g20@corp.supernews.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com> <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com> <12ea3i48k3ifud4@corp.supernews.com>


"Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote in message 
news:12ea3i48k3ifud4@corp.supernews.com...
 >  which as Mike pointed out

Gary, sorry.

John H. 




Article: 339984 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: ken scharf <wa2mzeNOSPAMBOTS@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl> <ul1Fg.66613$u05.64908@trnddc01>
Message-ID: <_j8Fg.30117$Uq1.12491@bignews6.bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:01:56 -0400

James Sweet wrote:
> N Cook wrote:
>> Electrically working valve but the glass body is only held by the
>> wires to
>> the pins, how to fix the glass envelope to the bakelite skirt to stop it
>> wobbling ?
>>
>> -- 
>> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
>> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
>> http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 
> 
> I had this problem with a couple of them, I dribbled superglue around
> the base being careful not to get it on the outside and then them
> tightly together for several minutes and set it aside to cure. Seems to
> be holding up so far.
As a kid I used Elmer's glue for the purpose (worked for a while, but
very heat resistant in the long run (turns brown, after all it's made
>from MILK!).  I recall finding tubes in junked tv's that were held
together with DUCK TAPE! (what else?).
Super glue works ok, but the trick is to get it between the glass and
the base.  Actually the best thing is to unsolder the tube from the
base, clean up the inside of the base and the outside of the glass,
apply new glue, and re-attach the base.  The trick here would be
getting the wires back into the right pins!


Article: 339985 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: ken scharf <wa2mzeNOSPAMBOTS@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Coilwinder
References: <FmNEg.73092$zy5.1335800@twister1.libero.it>
Message-ID: <In8Fg.30144$Uq1.7184@bignews6.bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:05:55 -0400

Daniele wrote:
> Another item arrived from the same basement
> where the wire spools have been found.
> This was used in a small radio lab that used
> to build up radios using Geloso parts, extimated
> no more than 500 pcs x year.
> Needs a bit of cleaning...
> I've uploaded large images (but small file size):
> http://www.junkradios.com/public/1.jpg
Make your own!
http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/coil/index.html

I've been meaning to try this one.  I have the book,
doesn't look too hard.


Article: 339986 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.)
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 19:03:45 -0600
Message-ID: <82-44E511F1-347@storefull-3236.bay.webtv.net>
References: <ec2od4$mrr$1@reader2.panix.com>

Works good here on webtv :-)



From adouglasatgis.net Sat Aug 19 13:51:16 EDT 2006
Article: 339987 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Alan Douglas <adouglasatgis.net>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: aluminium tuning caps
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 20:57:00 -0400
Organization: NewsGuy - Unlimited Usenet $19.95
Lines: 15
Message-ID: <ah3ae25poaajellif8kq4jqp6scgrnntr7@4ax.com>
References: <1155857505.361397.38750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: p-866.newsdawg.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572
Path: news.unc.edu!elk.ncren.net!news.uoregon.edu!arclight.uoregon.edu!logbridge.uoregon.edu!tethys.csu.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!pln-e!spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news3
Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339987

Hi,
   Wayne asked:

>Does anyone know the year that aluminium tuning caps were first mass
>marketed and used.

   1916 at least, but probably before that
>
>I'm aware some tuning caps were made from brass, does anyone know of
>any being made from other metals?

   Zinc was used in the teens.  Cardwell cast plates from pot metal in
the early 1920s.

Alan


Article: 339988 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:48:32 -0400
Message-ID: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300018527377

UNTIL you look at how they USED those 15 tubes-

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/772/M0024772.htm

I'll only buy one if it's $400- or less now.

John H. 




Article: 339989 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:50:16 -0400
Message-ID: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com>

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Zenith-Console-Radio-130551-Long-Distance-Auto_W0QQitemZ280019172447

John H. 




Article: 339990 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Daniele" <dast@tuberadio.it>
References: <FmNEg.73092$zy5.1335800@twister1.libero.it> <In8Fg.30144$Uq1.7184@bignews6.bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Coilwinder
Message-ID: <c29Fg.74056$zy5.1347028@twister1.libero.it>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 01:51:04 GMT


"ken scharf"

> Make your own!
> http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/coil/index.html
>
> I've been meaning to try this one.  I have the book,
> doesn't look too hard.

I have the old Morris. I was planning to buy that book
i could not find a morris. Anyway i feel it interesting,
however i have no way to build gears and cams, i guess
i would be locked at that point.

-- 
 Daniele
 http://www.tuberadio.it




Article: 339991 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Message-ID: <44E524C8.40701@swbell.net>
From: patrick jankowiak <eccm@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 02:24:15 GMT

schmillivolt@yahoo.com wrote:

> I want to simulate a standard neon bulb using an LED. I've tried many
> "orange" LEDS but these are always too red. I'm assuming that a neon
> bulb glows at a wider spectrum than an LED.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 

The spectrum of neon is full of many lines.
http://members.tripod.com/ChemCom/cTakingSpectraPictures.htm

http://www.dartmouth.edu/~chemlab/chem6/hspect/overview/procedure.html

http://www.astrosurf.org/buil/us/spe2/hresol4.htm


Using one or more theatrical-type lighting filters in front of a 
suitable LED might help. You can sometimes get a filter swatch book 
free from a theatrical supply. One swatch, about 1.25x2.5", would do 
many LEDs. You could cut out some of the red.

I've used GAM brand filters with success in various non-theatrical 
lighting applications (think red lighting for military night work, 
using standard cheap flourescent lamps). The link below lets you click 
on a filter color and see its spectral bandpass characteristic.
http://www.gamcolor.com/catalog/gamcolor/index.php

Gotta love spectroscopy!

PJ



Article: 339992 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01> <QK1Fg.4780$zg.3053@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ro6Fg.73655$MW.26106@trnddc04> <wG7Fg.5626$zg.4626@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <FP9Fg.11558$5M.4140@trnddc02>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 02:43:49 GMT


>>
>>
>>That's a shame, can they be rebuilt, or are there any suitable subs? In my 
>>experience CRTs in general are quite forgiving to substitution though I have much 
>>less experience with the old electrostatic type.
> 
> 
> They can be rebuilt, but the cost often exceeds the value of the set it would go in. 
> I think Hawkeye may be the last to offer this service.  No substitutions as far as I 
> know, unless you want a green picture using a scope tube.
> 
> jim menning 
> 
> 


Seems it might be reasonable for the value of the sets to increase in 
that case, I suppose the value depends on how badly one wants theirs to 
be working.


From adouglasatgis.net Sat Aug 19 13:51:16 EDT 2006
Article: 339993 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Alan Douglas <adouglasatgis.net>
Newsgroups: rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Moskowitz & Herbach
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:52:00 -0400
Organization: NewsGuy - Unlimited Usenet $19.95
Lines: 6
Message-ID: <mnaae2l05ltmivg796vl3vp8gt8ss66c4t@4ax.com>
References: <1155782474.826069.62990@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: p-033.newsdawg.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.92/16.572
Path: news.unc.edu!elk.ncren.net!newshub.sdsu.edu!pln-e!spln!lex!extra.newsguy.com!newsp.newsguy.com!news1
Xref: news0.isis.unc.edu rec.antiques.radio+phono:339993

Hi,
   The oldest catalog I have is around 1932, for the M&H Sporting
Goods company or something (I'd have to dig it out).  Nothing from the
1920s.

Alan


Article: 339994 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com> <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec326v$lpi$2@reader2.panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 21:19:15 -0700
Message-ID: <JuidnUQpI7tQonjZnZ2dnUVZ_vydnZ2d@giganews.com>

In the days before 737-sized Barcaloungers, some people actually sat in 
things like high-backed rocking chairs, like the one handed down to me from 
my great-grandpa. If you put this chairside next to my rocker, the cabinet's 
backside (inner side) would be visible, and it would make kind of a nice 
stylistic match with the rocker.

Regards,

Phil Nelson




Article: 339995 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <blbFg.5637$zg.302@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 04:27:51 GMT


"Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote in message 
news:12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com...
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Zenith-Console-Radio-130551-Long-Distance-Auto_W0QQitemZ280019172447
>
> John H.
>

Yeah John, thanks.  Those are some really neat ice cream scoops!  Are those handles 
made of Catalin?

;o)

jim menning 




Article: 339996 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: cuhulin@webtv.net
Subject: Willys
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 23:25:38 -0500
Message-ID: <18592-44E54142-298@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net>

Willys J series radio.
www.willystech.com    Parts Board.If you are interested.
cuhulin



Article: 339997 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: cuhulin@webtv.net
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 23:30:40 -0500
Message-ID: <18593-44E54270-45@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net>
References: <44E5020E.F7850725@earthlink.net>

Sounds like webtv.Some of those webtv so-called csrs say it is our
problem.That means they dont want to deal with it.
Fortunatley,I never have any problems with my dumb old ancient webtv
box.Smooth sailing all the way. 
cuhulin 



Article: 339998 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>   <1155828768.630072.199090@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155859869.398633.22970@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <1155861188.185315.55560@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <XybFg.1936$Cs3.1@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 04:42:31 GMT



Peter Wieck wrote:

[ Re: Skippy's failure with JB Weld. }
> 
> So, it seems that you did not mix it correctly, or did not read the
> directions fully. Both seem equally likely.

There's a third alternative. Left over adhesive from the electrical
tape. It will "poison" the epoxy and keep it from curing properly.

Jeff

-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 339999 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01> <QK1Fg.4780$zg.3053@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ro6Fg.73655$MW.26106@trnddc04> <wG7Fg.5626$zg.4626@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <FP9Fg.11558$5M.4140@trnddc02>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
Message-ID: <jzbFg.5641$zg.4374@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 04:42:55 GMT


"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
news:FP9Fg.11558$5M.4140@trnddc02...
>
>>>
>>>
>>>That's a shame, can they be rebuilt, or are there any suitable subs? In my 
>>>experience CRTs in general are quite forgiving to substitution though I have much 
>>>less experience with the old electrostatic type.
>>
>>
>> They can be rebuilt, but the cost often exceeds the value of the set it would go 
>> in. I think Hawkeye may be the last to offer this service.  No substitutions as 
>> far as I know, unless you want a green picture using a scope tube.
>>
>> jim menning
>
>
> Seems it might be reasonable for the value of the sets to increase in that case, I 
> suppose the value depends on how badly one wants theirs to be working.

Those early Motorola, Sentinel, Admiral, Airline, etc. sets are very common around 
here.  Every radio meet will have several to choose from, many/most under $50.  The 
sets are cheap, because nobody can get a good CRT.  Most will end up being "shelf 
queens", or being passed around from one hopeful restorer to another until they 
finally get tossed.

jim menning 




Article: 340000 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Signal Corps TG-34-A Keyer Tape
References: <Lj7Fg.1201$Tl4.75@dukeread06>
Message-ID: <BNbFg.1377$YC3.1163@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 04:58:09 GMT

Jumps up and waves hand!
Me!

Jeff

Ken wrote:

> I have one of these tapes to give away, postage only. Ken
> wklw AT cox DOT coM
> 

-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 340001 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <blbFg.5637$zg.302@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 22:04:49 -0700
Message-ID: <mPednTdouYk213jZnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@giganews.com>

Dang, I see some of my beloved childhood radio stations. WCCO, KSTP . . . .

Where's that Wayback Machine when I need it??

Phil "Minnesota Kid" Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html




Article: 340002 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <blbFg.5637$zg.302@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <mPednTdouYk213jZnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@giganews.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 01:14:10 -0500
Message-ID: <44e54d90$0$15813$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>


"Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz> wrote in message 
news:mPednTdouYk213jZnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@giganews.com...
> Dang, I see some of my beloved childhood radio stations. WCCO, KSTP . . . 
> .

That's because the part of Wisconsin in which this radio is located is much 
closer to Minnesota than to most of Wisconsin's important cities. People 
sometimes forget that St. Paul is just 18 miles from the state line. Parts 
of western Wisconsin are now basically just a big suburb of the Twin Cities.

> Where's that Wayback Machine when I need it??

If I happen to run across Mr. Peabody and Sherman I'll ask them. :)

-p. 



-- 
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



Article: 340003 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 17 Aug 2006 23:25:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1155882359.184233.157390@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> Peter Wieck wrote:
>
> [ Re: Skippy's failure with JB Weld. }
> >
> > So, it seems that you did not mix it correctly, or did not read the
> > directions fully. Both seem equally likely.
>
> There's a third alternative. Left over adhesive from the electrical
> tape. It will "poison" the epoxy and keep it from curing properly.

Okay...it's just getting trickier as we go along. Since the whole thing
is on a "lease" of about 4" tops and I'd have to actually REMOVE IT
>from the board and put it back on. Unless it was wrapped on the posts,
it become a huge production. I had it turned on it's side and stuff
propped beneath the part, and tape was the only thing that would add
stability to do this in an awkward position such as that. It's a flat
panel with two slabs on the sides and a collar for the attachment
screw. The bar cover is a short casing made of the same type of plastic
as a oil bottle, about 4" too and 1.25" square. Replacement would be
cool, but since I've not seen one of these much if ever, it leaves a
quandry.

Do I know anybody who would actually use it for AM? Maybe. Does it need
to be perfect? Sorta. Another piece of electrical tape would pull it up
and anchor it all the same, in that it must pull away from the set to
receive well. If I were using it, cool, but I've got stuff.

PS I saw a KLH Model Six stray in the auction leftovers tonight. Been
there a few days. I think I'll go get it as it should be free today.



Article: 340004 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 17 Aug 2006 23:44:42 -0700
Message-ID: <1155883481.959361.283820@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


Oh, big PS...it's broken way less than 1/2 an inch from the joint, the
biggest reason for the tape, and  far shorter of one side.



Article: 340005 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 17 Aug 2006 23:47:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1155883645.642649.161200@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <44E5020E.F7850725@earthlink.net>


cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:
> Sounds like webtv.Some of those webtv so-called csrs say it is our
> problem.That means they dont want to deal with it.
> Fortunatley,I never have any problems with my dumb old ancient webtv
> box.Smooth sailing all the way.
> cuhulin

Only Bill's email is webtv-based.



Article: 340006 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Willys J Radio (parts unit/project) listed from link
Date: 18 Aug 2006 00:27:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1155886044.413156.210820@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <18592-44E54142-298@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net>

cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:
> Willys J series radio.
> www.willystech.com    Parts Board.If you are interested.
> cuhulin

Perhaps that will clarify it as on topic. Thanks cuhulin...



Article: 340007 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Willys
Date: 18 Aug 2006 00:32:29 -0700
Message-ID: <1155886349.675348.294370@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <18592-44E54142-298@storefull-3256.bay.webtv.net>


cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:
> Willys J series radio.
> www.willystech.com    Parts Board.If you are interested.
> cuhulin

It's just an SS set. It doesn't even have tubes...

You don't even have a good ballast tube : P but oh well.



Article: 340008 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Jason M" <jhsonline@nospamverizon.net>
Subject: Anyone heard of a Radiovox?
Message-ID: <HteFg.71060$zc2.16220@trnddc06>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 08:01:43 GMT

I'm looking at buying some radios this weekend and one is a Radiovox 
Cathedral.  From a picture I was emailed it looks like it's in pretty good 
shape (the front is all I've seen) and it looks like it says Radiovox on the 
escutchen.  Anyone heard of one or who made it?  Looks like a single band 
(AM) with a window for the dial and three knobs.  Part of the case 
decoration is a raised section with a different color finish.....similar to 
a Jackson Bell Swan but no fancy grill.  Thanks for the info in advance. 




Article: 340009 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Ken <wklwns@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Signal Corps TG-34-A Keyer Tape
References: <Lj7Fg.1201$Tl4.75@dukeread06> <BNbFg.1377$YC3.1163@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Message-ID: <lghFg.1420$Tl4.733@dukeread06>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 07:12:01 -0400

Sorry, gave you the wrong address. It is:
wklw at cox dot net    Send address. Ken

Jeffrey D Angus wrote:

> Jumps up and waves hand!
> Me!
> 
> Jeff
> 
> Ken wrote:
> 
>> I have one of these tapes to give away, postage only. Ken
>> wklw AT cox DOT coM
>>
> 



Article: 340010 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "electron@grapevine.net" <electron@grapevine.net>
Subject: Re: Kansas City
Date: 18 Aug 2006 04:16:25 -0700
Message-ID: <1155899785.311080.26710@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <ZX7Fg.16110$o27.9625@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com>


OzRadio wrote:
> Are there any places in the Kansas City metro area that sell vintage electronics and parts?
> Ryan
>
>
> --------------=  Posted using GrabIt  =----------------
> ------=  Binary Usenet downloading made easy =---------
> -=  Get GrabIt for free from http://www.shemes.com/  =-

Hi Ryan,

Not really. The only 'real' purveyor of electronics parts in the KC
area is Electronics Supply Company, 4100 Main Street. They're open
Monday through Friday (they no longer have Saturday hours.)
800.669.3752

We're doing a limited amount of parts etc sales, but we're not going
full retail until we move later this year to a building I recently
bought in downtown Eudora (Kansas, right outside of Johnson County.)
http://www.Braught.com
If you want to call me direct (my CSRs will deny we sell parts today) I
might be able to help you out in a pinch, ask for 'Robert the owner,
posts at rec.antiques.radio+phono' 8am-5pm Mon-Fri CST
785.542.2263
(I collect test equipment, and enjoy trading)
After we move I'll have 100+ pieces of tube type test gear for sale on
the shelves...

Our local antique radio/electronics club has four scheduled events a
year, you just missed the summer swap meet (we have two swap meets and
two auctions per year.) Our membership file includes several people
local to the midwest that dabble in private sales...
Mid-America Antique Radio Club
http://www.geocities.com/maarc1974

HTH,
-Robert
QTS
http://www.Braught.com
real email addy : Robert@NoSpamBraught.com (remove NoSpam to reply :
Duh!)



Article: 340011 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Pittsburgh Area Lost Zenith
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 07:26:19 -0400
Message-ID: <12eb8v84pmc3b04@corp.supernews.com>

It's 1/2 an hour south of there. Category error and "must inquire" pickup 
location should make this a sitting duck.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130017166742

John H. 




Article: 340012 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net>
References: <1155488440.154874.15590@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <44E524C8.40701@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 04:41:00 -0700
Message-ID: <S4mdnROyXILeOnjZnZ2dnUVZ_t6dnZ2d@comcast.com>

> Using one or more theatrical-type lighting filters in front of a
> suitable LED might help. You can sometimes get a filter swatch
> book free from a theatrical supply. One swatch, about 1.25x2.5",
> would do many LEDs. You could cut out some of the red.

This generally won't work, because LEDs don't have a broad spectrum.




Article: 340013 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 18 Aug 2006 04:48:44 -0700
Message-ID: <1155901724.231764.99720@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


Jeffrey D Angus wrote:

> There's a third alternative. Left over adhesive from the electrical
> tape. It will "poison" the epoxy and keep it from curing properly.
>

That would come under "reading the directions"...

"Make sure that the surfaces are clean and free of.... "

And so forth. 

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 340014 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: 18 Aug 2006 05:45:16 -0700
Message-ID: <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com>


Hagstar wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300018527377
>
> UNTIL you look at how they USED those 15 tubes-
>
> http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/772/M0024772.htm
>
> I'll only buy one if it's $400- or less now.
>
> John H.

Oh, I dunno... 4 x 6V6 output tubes with the appropriate two drivers,
two rectifiers for all that... sure, that accounts for eight of the 15.
Then the eye. Leaving a reasonable six for all the other duties.

You must be getting grumpy in your old age... Zenith did not attempt a
communications receiver by any means with this radio, they concentrated
on appearance and sound vs. high performance. But for the record, put a
decent antenna on this beast and it will do _very_ well.

I don't think this was a case of tubes-for-count, in other words.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 340015 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 08:07:41 -0500
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
From: John Stone <jmsent2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C10B25CD.53BB3%jmsent2@comcast.net>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com>

On 8/17/06 8:48 PM, in article 12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com, "Hagstar"
<yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote:

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300018527377
> 
> UNTIL you look at how they USED those 15 tubes-
> 
> http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/772/M0024772.htm
> 
> I'll only buy one if it's $400- or less now.
> 
It's your typical Zenith setup. Anything  9 tubes and up, and the RF portion
is the same.  Probably has pretty potent audio, though.



Article: 340016 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: oldcoot@webtv.net (Bill Sheppard)
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 06:08:19 -0700
Message-ID: <27784-44E5BBC3-22@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>
References: <S4mdnROyXILeOnjZnZ2dnUVZ_t6dnZ2d@comcast.com>


>...LEDs don't have a broad spectrum.

What about white LEDs? 

oc



Article: 340017 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mike" <msack@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 06:24:29 -0700
Message-ID: <1155907469.337367.38540@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08>

It looks like the key is to put WWW.dialcovers.com in the address.
With my machine and IE, it works with the www and does not if I don't
put www.

I know when I set up my website, with my ISP, I had to specify if I
wanted the url to show up if someone didn't put WWW in the address
line.  I chose yes, and my website has never had a problem.

Probably Bill just needs to contact his ISP and have them correct this.

Mike Sackett



Article: 340018 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 18 Aug 2006 06:29:54 -0700
Message-ID: <1155907794.114255.75730@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


Peter Wieck wrote:
> Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
>
> > There's a third alternative. Left over adhesive from the electrical
> > tape. It will "poison" the epoxy and keep it from curing properly.
> >
>
> That would come under "reading the directions"...
>
> "Make sure that the surfaces are clean and free of.... "
>
> And so forth.
>
> Peter Wieck
> Wyncote, PA

Well I found a popsicle stick if it helps.

Course I also found a potentially GRATIS stray KLH Model Six I could
possibly have and use too...c'est la vie, cart it before the auction
tosses it.



Article: 340019 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "OzRadio" <OzRadio@Bamboozled.com>
Subject: Re: Kansas City
Message-ID: <IoiFg.10128$9T3.3495@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 12:29:28 GMT

Robert,
Great news! I hope you'll keep the group updated. I live in Lawrence so Eudora is just a hop, skip, and jump. I have met a couple antique radio restorers here in town and look forward to meeting more.
Ryan


--------------=  Posted using GrabIt  =----------------
------=  Binary Usenet downloading made easy =---------
-=  Get GrabIt for free from http://www.shemes.com/  =-



Article: 340020 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <blbFg.5637$zg.302@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <mPednTdouYk213jZnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@giganews.com> <44e54d90$0$15813$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <pzjFg.10919$eL2.9511@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:49:09 GMT


"Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com> wrote in message 
news:44e54d90$0$15813$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>
> "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz> wrote in message 
> news:mPednTdouYk213jZnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@giganews.com...
>> Dang, I see some of my beloved childhood radio stations. WCCO, KSTP . . . .
>
> That's because the part of Wisconsin in which this radio is located is much closer 
> to Minnesota than to most of Wisconsin's important cities. People sometimes forget 
> that St. Paul is just 18 miles from the state line. Parts of western Wisconsin are 
> now basically just a big suburb of the Twin Cities.
>

But they're still mostly loyal to the Packers, not the Vikings!

jim menning 




Article: 340021 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: cuhulin@webtv.net
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 08:42:08 -0500
Message-ID: <24138-44E5C3B0-57@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1155907469.337367.38540@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

With webtv,most dot com websites,I only have to type dialcover and
dialcover's website pops right on up.
cuhulin 



Article: 340022 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa)
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <1155907469.337367.38540@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Message-ID: <hBjFg.4181$aJ.3140@attbi_s21>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:51:09 GMT

In article <1155907469.337367.38540@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>, 
msack@hotmail.com says...
>
>
>Probably Bill just needs to contact his ISP and have them correct this.
>
>Mike Sackett
>

Yeah But.... its the "Other Bill" that fixes and maintains Bill T's
website.... must be out working someplace ... otherwise with
all this Hoopla about Bill's site... we would have heard from
him by now.... 

Bill M. .... alias Exray... U out there someplace?... 

John k9uwa



Article: 340023 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: cuhulin@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Has anyone heard from OTRCAT?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 08:48:08 -0500
Message-ID: <24138-44E5C518-59@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net>
References: <SN7Fg.70619$zc2.46176@trnddc06>

Try him again,maybe he got a hickey or something.
cuhulin



Article: 340024 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Subject: Re: Pittsburgh Area Lost Zenith
From: k9uwaREMOVE@THISarrl.netSTUFF (John Goller, k9uwa)
References: <12eb8v84pmc3b04@corp.supernews.com>
Message-ID: <NIjFg.908679$084.155973@attbi_s22>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:59:09 GMT

In article <12eb8v84pmc3b04@corp.supernews.com>, yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net 
says...
>
>
>It's 1/2 an hour south of there. Category error and "must inquire" pickup 
>location should make this a sitting duck.
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130017166742
>
>John H. 
>
>

Thats a Zenith 7S53 console... a considerable step up from the much
more common 6s52 ... features dual speed tuning.. that really is
two concentric knobs.. I have one... hate to think how many people
have tried to buy the one I have ... don't want to sell it.. 

Somebody should grab that one up reasonable I think... setting
at 66 bucks this morning... 

John k9uwa



Article: 340025 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: cuhulin@webtv.net
Subject: Re: It speaks!
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 08:51:37 -0500
Message-ID: <24138-44E5C5E9-60@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net>
References: <5o1Fg.66614$u05.36976@trnddc01>

I know it's a dumb question,but what does AA5 mean?
cuhulin



Article: 340026 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: cuhulin@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Columbia Viva-tonal grafonola (slightly OT)
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 09:01:21 -0500
Message-ID: <24139-44E5C831-11@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net>
References: <Xns98225F539FC1Erfwplighting@129.250.170.82>

Off topic??? I am reminded of not to farrrr back,someone in this news
group posted a website about an electric phonograph and everybody
(including meself) was talking about the phonograph and the table the
phonograph was sitting on and the chair and the wall paper,,,, never
mind the gal that was standing there :{)
cuhulin  



Article: 340027 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 07:21:17 -0700
Message-ID: <1155910877.143709.97610@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08>


Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> John Goller, k9uwa wrote:
> > Bill M. .... alias Exray... U out there someplace?...
>
> He told us to all go and fu** ourselfs a while ago after he was
> accused of butchering a radio that he'd brought back from the dead.

That explains why I've found things more placid than normal. Think
he'll recover?



Article: 340028 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 07:23:08 -0700
Message-ID: <1155910988.007155.230120@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com>


jim menning wrote:
> "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com> wrote in message
> news:44e54d90$0$15813$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
> >
> > "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz> wrote in message
> > news:mPednTdouYk213jZnZ2dnUVZ_tudnZ2d@giganews.com...
> >> Dang, I see some of my beloved childhood radio stations. WCCO, KSTP . . . .
> >
> > That's because the part of Wisconsin in which this radio is located is much closer
> > to Minnesota than to most of Wisconsin's important cities. People sometimes forget
> > that St. Paul is just 18 miles from the state line. Parts of western Wisconsin are
> > now basically just a big suburb of the Twin Cities.
> >
>
> But they're still mostly loyal to the Packers, not the Vikings!
> 
> jim menning

Packers win.



Article: 340029 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS)
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 14:26:45 GMT
Message-ID: <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net>

In article <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net>, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>Peter Wieck wrote:
>> jakdedert wrote:
>> 
>>> HPM 100.  This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the
>>> JBL L-100's
>> 
>> I remember both of these. I agree that they were very, very similar.
>> But absolutely not to my taste. 'Nuff said.
>> 
>> Peter Wieck
>> Wyncote, PA
>> 
>> 
>Yeah...this has gone pretty far off-topic (mostly because of the 
>x-posting).  I just wanted to point out that there were respectful (and 
>respected) Japanese speakers built in the 70's.
>
>Taste is a whole other issue.

There may be two thing good about this speaker, its may  have
not used foam surrounds. Can't tell by looking. The cabinets
are real neat, and would possible be good for making a speaker.

CAINE you have to get your picturs right if you want to sell stuff.

Orginal

http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker.jpg

Improved

http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker2.jpg

Unless your trying hide something, get your picturs right.

greg


Article: 340030 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Eddie Brimer" <eb062559@aol.com>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: 18 Aug 2006 07:31:46 -0700
Message-ID: <1155911506.455769.191830@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com>


Hagstar wrote:

>
> I'll only buy one if it's $400- or less now.
>
> John H.

looks like the hag won't be buying any 15 tubes zenith consoles off
ebay.........



Article: 340031 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 15:21:59 GMT


"GregS" <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote in message 
news:ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
>
>
> Orginal
>
> http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker.jpg
>
> Improved
>
> http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker2.jpg
>
> Unless your trying hide something, get your picturs right.
>
> greg

I must be missing something.  Although it was poorly lit and didn't have very good 
resolution, to me the original picture was much better.  It had far sharper detail 
(very evident when enlarging to look at details such as the controls), and didn't 
have all the "colorizing" that your processing added.  Yours was the equivalent of 
looking at the original through fogged up glasses.

What were you trying to accomplish?

jim menning 




Article: 340032 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS)
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 15:54:07 GMT
Message-ID: <ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>

In article <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote:
>
>"GregS" <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote in message 
>news:ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
>>
>>
>> Orginal
>>
>> http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker.jpg
>>
>> Improved
>>
>> http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker2.jpg
>>
>> Unless your trying hide something, get your picturs right.
>>
>> greg
>
>I must be missing something.  Although it was poorly lit and didn't have very
> good 
>resolution, to me the original picture was much better.  It had far sharper
> detail 
>(very evident when enlarging to look at details such as the controls), and
> didn't 
>have all the "colorizing" that your processing added.  Yours was the equivalent
> of 
>looking at the original through fogged up glasses.
>
>What were you trying to accomplish?

I could not see the orginal.
For one thing, trying to process the picture. You obviously fooled with the picture.
I also don't know how much brightness you have on your monitor, or if your in a bright room.
I fooled with it to make it halfway presentable, so one could view it
without fooling with it. I did not change colors, specifically, I upped the gamma and contrast,
and sharpness. This has a hazzard of creating saturation and washing out colors
and creating more Jpeg noise as you do so while saving.
A camera can adjust to poorly lit images and should come up with the correct
brightness, however lighting is still important, and the brighter the lighting, the more sharpness
you have to work with. Few pictures I take have the brightness and presentation for web viewing
without processing. One needs to first start out with a good orginal to fool with.

After turning out the lights, the orginal picture was much better, but this does not make it right.
 
greg



Article: 340033 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155911506.455769.191830@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 10:58:27 -0500
Message-ID: <44e5d67b$0$15849$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>

"Eddie Brimer" <eb062559@aol.com> wrote in message 
news:1155911506.455769.191830@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> looks like the hag won't be buying any 15 tubes zenith consoles off
> ebay.........

Oh gee that's too bad. Whoever will buy them now? :)

FWIW to expand on a previous comment, unlike the '38 sets the '39 12 and 15 
tube Zeniths have a second IF stage with their active tuned RF stage, so as 
to make them less unworthy to those who worship at the altar of slightly 
perceptible reception upgrades.

-p.



-- 
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



Article: 340034 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 09:40:59 -0700
Message-ID: <1155919259.865325.90440@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>


GregS wrote:

>
> Unless you're trying hide something, get your pictures right.

That would be the case.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA



Article: 340035 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Terry S" <tschw10117@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 10:25:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1155921902.470389.42910@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com>

Childhood stations?.... I still listen to some of them...

Ok, not the old neighbor ('CCO) but the others...

When the wind is right I can smell Rice Lake from here... that awful
cheese scent...

Terry "Minnesota Adult" Schwartz
http://members.aol.com/tschw10117/mypage.htm



Phil Nelson wrote:
> Dang, I see some of my beloved childhood radio stations. WCCO, KSTP . . . .
>
> Where's that Wayback Machine when I need it??
>
> Phil "Minnesota Kid" Nelson
> Phil's Old Radios
> http://antiqueradio.org/index.html



Article: 340036 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <rLmFg.10949$eL2.6324@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:26:47 GMT


"GregS" <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote in message 
news:ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
> In article <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, "jim menning" 
> <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>"GregS" <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote in message
>>news:ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
>>>
>>>
>>> Orginal
>>>
>>> http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker.jpg
>>>
>>> Improved
>>>
>>> http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker2.jpg
>>>
>>> Unless your trying hide something, get your picturs right.
>>>
>>> greg
>>
>>I must be missing something.  Although it was poorly lit and didn't have very
>> good
>>resolution, to me the original picture was much better.  It had far sharper
>> detail
>>(very evident when enlarging to look at details such as the controls), and
>> didn't
>>have all the "colorizing" that your processing added.  Yours was the equivalent
>> of
>>looking at the original through fogged up glasses.
>>
>>What were you trying to accomplish?
>
> I could not see the orginal.
> For one thing, trying to process the picture. You obviously fooled with the 
> picture.

No, I didn't.  Not at all.  I just opened it in IE and looked at it.  To zoom in, I 
opened it in Windows Picture & Fax viewer.

> I also don't know how much brightness you have on your monitor, or if your in a 
> bright room.

I'm sitting in the living room, currently in bright sunshine, monitor set to produce 
reasonable images whether in daylight or the evening with no lights on in the room. 
All normal pictures on the internet appear just fine with my monitor settings. The 
original image looked just fine, although the exposure was a bit dark.  Your 
processing made it appear "washed-out" compared to other images on my monitor.

> I fooled with it to make it halfway presentable, so one could view it
> without fooling with it.

I had no problems, and I didn't need to do any "fooling with it".  The original was 
more "presentable" than your manipulation of it.

> I did not change colors, specifically, I upped the gamma and contrast,
> and sharpness. This has a hazzard of creating saturation and washing out colors
> and creating more Jpeg noise as you do so while saving.

Which is just restating what I previously said.  And that is exactly why your image 
accomplished nothing other than to hide more potential problems, which is what you 
were accusing the original image of being guilty of.

> A camera can adjust to poorly lit images and should come up with the correct
> brightness, however lighting is still important, and the brighter the lighting, the 
> more sharpness
> you have to work with. Few pictures I take have the brightness and presentation for 
> web viewing
> without processing. One needs to first start out with a good orginal to fool with.

Obviously a well taken image would be better than the one originally supplied.  My 
question was:  'what were you trying to accomplish with your "fooling" with the 
original image'.  Obviously now it appears you wanted to brighten it because on your 
monitor it didn't show up well.  Your manipulation of the image did brighten it, but 
in all other apsects, it degraded the image.  Net result:  Your image lost the detail 
that the original had.  Who does that help?  Your accusation to the OP about trying 
to "hide something" is ridiculous when your "improved" image hides even more.

And I don't agree with your statement about "web viewing" at all.  Whether viewing 
the original camera image on your computer screen or later as it's placed on the web, 
the image will be virtually identical. There are no brightness changes between the 
two. When you stated "web viewing" did you really mean "any" viewing of your photos 
on a monitor?

>
> After turning out the lights, the orginal picture was much better, but this does 
> not make it right.
>

Could it be that *your* monitor settings are "off"?  As I stated, my monitor settings 
reproduce reasonably good images from most any photo, whether the room is light or 
dark.  Your "improved" image was noticably washed out and seriously showing 
processing faults, whether adjusting my monitor brightness up or down.  Maybe you 
should have considered that anyone interested in viewing the speakers would rather 
see them in better detail, instead of just brighter.  Although the original wasn't 
bright or sharp, it certainly provided better details of the speaker construction and 
condition. I'm not defending the original poster's image or his reasons for posting 
about it here, but I don't understand your attack or your logic in thinking that your 
image was indeed better than the original.

jim menning 




Article: 340037 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Ken <wklwns@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Signal Corps TG-34-A Keyer Tape
References: <Lj7Fg.1201$Tl4.75@dukeread06> <BNbFg.1377$YC3.1163@tornado.socal.rr.com> <lghFg.1420$Tl4.733@dukeread06>
Message-ID: <aQmFg.1443$Tl4.1181@dukeread06>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:31:34 -0400

Given. Ken

Ken wrote:

> Sorry, gave you the wrong address. It is:
> wklw at cox dot net    Send address. Ken
> 
> Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> 
>> Jumps up and waves hand!
>> Me!
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>> Ken wrote:
>>
>>> I have one of these tapes to give away, postage only. Ken
>>> wklw AT cox DOT coM
>>>
>>
> 



Article: 340038 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 12:34:02 -0500
Message-ID: <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net>


"Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote in message 
news:12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com...
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Zenith-Console-Radio-130551-Long-Distance-Auto_W0QQitemZ280019172447
>
> John H.
I wonder if they have the legs that have been cut off?
B. 




Article: 340039 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <bZmFg.10950$eL2.4754@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:41:27 GMT


"Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net> wrote in message 
news:-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net...
>
> "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote in message 
> news:12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com...
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Zenith-Console-Radio-130551-Long-Distance-Auto_W0QQitemZ280019172447
>>
>> John H.
> I wonder if they have the legs that have been cut off?
> B.
>

I was wondering about the missing grillwork.  Didn't this model also have some of 
that?  It is(was) a model 64, isn't it?

jim menning 




Article: 340040 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 12:41:05 -0500
Message-ID: <MPydnQCayf0uZnjZnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@sigecom.net>


"Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz> wrote in message 
news:hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com...
>A visitor to my website sent this photo of one a couple of years ago.
>

I thought I remembered you had posted that. Who could forget that top glass?
Bruce 




Article: 340041 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Pete_O" <stateasylum@private>
Subject: Philco 18- what happened to the transformer?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:47:25 -0400
Message-ID: <e9ff7f7053fedaeebbdf8dd1f41ab348@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com>

http://cgi.ebay.com/1933-DECO-PHILCO-CATHEDRAL-RADIO-MODEL-18-SHARP_W0QQitemZ160020514783QQihZ006QQcategoryZ38034QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Is it someone's conversion to an AC/DC model?  I think investing in a
replacement transformer would have been a better idea.  -Pete



Article: 340042 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 10:44:24 -0700
Message-ID: <1155923064.900095.37270@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

Because I don't drive anymore, which I explained to Tim yesterday in
email.

Forget the JVCs. I rescued a single KLH Model Six in clean shape from
going in the auction's trash. Maybe that qualifies as a good thing.
I'll see if it works later. After finding two bad HDDs in my stash and
staying up to save a speaker, I'm beyond tired.



Article: 340043 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com> <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec326v$lpi$2@reader2.panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 12:46:41 -0500
Message-ID: <3-WdnU_UqYueYHjZnZ2dnUVZ_oqdnZ2d@sigecom.net>


"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
news:ec326v$lpi$2@reader2.panix.com...

>   "Coffee table???  Oh, you mean chairside radio!"
>
>   That's what I've always used for a coffee table. :)  This one
> looks a bit tall for that, though.  No, scratch that.  I just
> checked the auction again: 19.5" high.  Yeah, that'd work.  This
> babe would be perfect, in fact.
>
>   Oh, Jeff.....  {just kidding :}
>
> -- 
>                                        Tim Mullen


Tim, just remember, you can't sit a wet glass on chrome. :-0
 (running (like hell)  for cover).....
B. 




Article: 340044 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 10:47:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1155923221.945842.55110@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

I don't care about pictures unless I'm gonna marry the subject of them
at this moment.

I saved a really neat KLH model six from the sixties, and I'm happy if
I die now.



Article: 340045 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "William R. Walsh" <newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com>
References: <12eb8v84pmc3b04@corp.supernews.com> <NIjFg.908679$084.155973@attbi_s22>
Subject: Re: Pittsburgh Area Lost Zenith
Message-ID: <44nFg.909055$084.265478@attbi_s22>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:48:48 GMT

Hi!

> Thats a Zenith 7S53 console... a considerable step up from the
> much more common 6s52

That's an interestingly similar radio. It has a lot of resemblance to my
6S52 console.

I've still got to get the 6S52 repaired...I'd love to hear it play.

Compared to the speaker present in my 6S52
(http://greyghost.dyndns.org/big_zenith_radio/ has pics), the 7S53 being
auctioned has a much bigger one. I wonder if the two sound much different?

William




Article: 340046 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com>   <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net>   <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net>   <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>   <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>   <rLmFg.10949$eL2.6324@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <1155923221.945842.55110@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <T6nFg.10951$eL2.8896@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:51:47 GMT


"Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message 
news:1155923221.945842.55110@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>
>
> I saved a really neat KLH model six from the sixties, and I'm happy if
> I die now.
>

That would certainly make many here happy.

jim menning 




Article: 340047 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 10:53:32 -0700
Message-ID: <1155923612.385407.285500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08>


Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> >
> > John Goller, k9uwa wrote:
> > > Bill M. .... alias Exray... U out there someplace?...
> >
> > He told us to all go and fu** ourselfs a while ago after he was
> > accused of butchering a radio that he'd brought back from the dead.
>
>
>    His last post here was when he accused me of everything except being
> white.

Now there's something I wasn't even trying to ponder.



Article: 340048 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 10:55:03 -0700
Message-ID: <1155923703.750337.203750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>

jim menning wrote:
> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message
> news:1155923221.945842.55110@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> >
> >
> > I saved a really neat KLH model six from the sixties, and I'm happy if
> > I die now.
> >
>
> That would certainly make many here happy.
> 
> jim menning

You would make a grouchy lover, were I gay.



Article: 340049 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS)
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:58:28 GMT
Message-ID: <ec4v47$nei$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <rLmFg.10949$eL2.6324@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>

In article <rLmFg.10949$eL2.6324@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote:
>
>"GregS" <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote in message 
>news:ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
>> In article <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, "jim menning" 
>> <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>"GregS" <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote in message
>>>news:ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Orginal
>>>>
>>>> http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker.jpg
>>>>
>>>> Improved
>>>>
>>>> http://zekfrivolous.com/misc/speaker2.jpg
>>>>
>>>> Unless your trying hide something, get your picturs right.
>>>>
>>>> greg
>>>
>>>I must be missing something.  Although it was poorly lit and didn't have very
>>> good
>>>resolution, to me the original picture was much better.  It had far sharper
>>> detail
>>>(very evident when enlarging to look at details such as the controls), and
>>> didn't
>>>have all the "colorizing" that your processing added.  Yours was the
> equivalent
>>> of
>>>looking at the original through fogged up glasses.
>>>
>>>What were you trying to accomplish?
>>
>> I could not see the orginal.
>> For one thing, trying to process the picture. You obviously fooled with the 
>> picture.
>
>No, I didn't.  Not at all.  I just opened it in IE and looked at it.  To zoom
> in, I 
>opened it in Windows Picture & Fax viewer.

That was what I meant by fooling with it.

greg


Article: 340050 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <rLmFg.10949$eL2.6324@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ec4v47$nei$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <YinFg.10952$eL2.4669@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 18:04:40 GMT


"GregS" <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote in message 
news:ec4v47$nei$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
> .
>>>>
>>>>What were you trying to accomplish?
>>>
>>> I could not see the orginal.
>>> For one thing, trying to process the picture. You obviously fooled with the
>>> picture.
>>
>>No, I didn't.  Not at all.  I just opened it in IE and looked at it.  To zoom
>> in, I
>>opened it in Windows Picture & Fax viewer.
>
> That was what I meant by fooling with it.
>


And how does that affect the brightness?

jim menning 




Article: 340051 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com>   <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net>   <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net>   <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>   <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>   <rLmFg.10949$eL2.6324@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <1155923221.945842.55110@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>   <T6nFg.10951$eL2.8896@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <1155923703.750337.203750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Message-ID: <GmnFg.10953$eL2.2659@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 18:08:38 GMT


"Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message 
news:1155923703.750337.203750@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> jim menning wrote:
>> "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com> wrote in message
>> news:1155923221.945842.55110@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>> >
>> >
>> > I saved a really neat KLH model six from the sixties, and I'm happy if
>> > I die now.
>> >
>>
>> That would certainly make many here happy.
>>
>> jim menning
>
> You would make a grouchy lover, were I gay.
>

Wouldn't happen.  Even if you are gay, I'm not.

"Not that there's anything wrong with that". (Seinfeld)

jim menning 




Article: 340052 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Lyndell Scott" <lfscott@flash.net>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 18:17:46 GMT

I think this is what it is supposed to look like: 
http://radioatticarchives.com/images/z/Zenith_77_WHRM.jpg
-- 

Lyndell Scott
Audio Antiques
http://geocities.com/lfscott@flash.net 




Article: 340053 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: szekeres@pitt.edu (GregS)
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 18:33:19 GMT
Message-ID: <ec515i$nei$5@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <rWkFg.10922$eL2.9970@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ec4nr1$lrm$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <rLmFg.10949$eL2.6324@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ec4v47$nei$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu> <YinFg.10952$eL2.4669@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>

In article <YinFg.10952$eL2.4669@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>, "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote:
>
>"GregS" <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote in message 
>news:ec4v47$nei$2@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
>> .
>>>>>
>>>>>What were you trying to accomplish?
>>>>
>>>> I could not see the orginal.
>>>> For one thing, trying to process the picture. You obviously fooled with the
>>>> picture.
>>>
>>>No, I didn't.  Not at all.  I just opened it in IE and looked at it.  To zoom
>>> in, I
>>>opened it in Windows Picture & Fax viewer.
>>
>> That was what I meant by fooling with it.
>>
>
>
>And how does that affect the brightness?

It controls size.
And having to reopen it in another program is really the point.

I have to compliment the orginator at having the perfect viewing size
for monitors on the web.

It does not affect the brightness, but if you opened it into an editor
you can do whattever.

If the picture is really big, my Netscape will make it smaller and offer
a zoom feature.

greg


Article: 340054 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 18:45:59 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec51t6$1u8$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com> <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec326v$lpi$2@reader2.panix.com> <3-WdnU_UqYueYHjZnZ2dnUVZ_oqdnZ2d@sigecom.net>

In <3-WdnU_UqYueYHjZnZ2dnUVZ_oqdnZ2d@sigecom.net> "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net> writes:

>"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
>news:ec326v$lpi$2@reader2.panix.com...

>>   "Coffee table???  Oh, you mean chairside radio!"
>>
>>   That's what I've always used for a coffee table. :)  This one
>> looks a bit tall for that, though.  No, scratch that.  I just
>> checked the auction again: 19.5" high.  Yeah, that'd work.  This
>> babe would be perfect, in fact.
>>
>>   Oh, Jeff.....  {just kidding :}

>Tim, just remember, you can't sit a wet glass on chrome. :-0
> (running (like hell)  for cover).....

   Eh?  My Sparton mirror-top ain't got no chrome.  The radio
that does is WAY too big to use as a coffee table. :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340055 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: interesting JVC speakers-what vintage ?
References: <1155645657.997468.257160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <1155696024.570023.42080@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com> <ebu69h0spk@news4.newsguy.com> <g8GEg.17247$Nx4.3783@bignews8.bellsouth.net> <1155827509.766644.102110@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com> <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <ec4in6$kpk$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
Message-ID: <LfoFg.21775$Nx4.20563@bignews8.bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 14:11:26 -0500

GregS wrote:
> In article <BJ2Fg.29295$Uq1.28629@bignews6.bellsouth.net>, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>> Peter Wieck wrote:
>>> jakdedert wrote:
>>>
>>>> HPM 100.  This was intentionally designed to compete directly with the
>>>> JBL L-100's
>>> I remember both of these. I agree that they were very, very similar.
>>> But absolutely not to my taste. 'Nuff said.
>>>
>>> Peter Wieck
>>> Wyncote, PA
>>>
>>>
>> Yeah...this has gone pretty far off-topic (mostly because of the 
>> x-posting).  I just wanted to point out that there were respectful (and 
>> respected) Japanese speakers built in the 70's.
>>
>> Taste is a whole other issue.
> 
> There may be two thing good about this speaker, its may  have
> not used foam surrounds. Can't tell by looking. The cabinets
> are real neat, and would possible be good for making a speaker.

They sound good as-is.  The cabinets are solid as a rock.  Rap on the 
side of one, and all you get is sore knuckles...very little else.  (In 
fact, that's my first test on unknown speakers...if I hear any sort of 
'note', I pass them by, no matter how highly rated.)  No need to try to 
'improve' them.  The HPM supertweeter might be a little gimmicky, but 
it's crossed over so high, I can barely hear it.  I did originally have 
JBL woofers in mine, but the OEM's installed now are an improvement. 
The drivers all have a rubberized, pleated fabric surround...no rot on 
mine in 30 years.



Article: 340056 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net> <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <vhoFg.10957$eL2.9300@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 19:11:23 GMT


"Lyndell Scott" <lfscott@flash.net> wrote in message 
news:evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...
>I think this is what it is supposed to look like: 
>http://radioatticarchives.com/images/z/Zenith_77_WHRM.jpg
> -- 
>


Thanks Lyndell.

Sure looks better when complete!

jim menning 




Article: 340057 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 21:19:56 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec5atr$ssv$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>   <1155828768.630072.199090@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155859869.398633.22970@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155861188.185315.55560@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <XybFg.1936$Cs3.1@tornado.socal.rr.com> <1155901724.231764.99720@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <XGjFg.1395$YC3.742@tornado.socal.rr.com>

In <XGjFg.1395$YC3.742@tornado.socal.rr.com> Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com> writes:

>By the way, most two-part epoxies are sensitive to the adhesive
>used on masking tape.

   A mechanical engineer friend told me a story about how he
discovered this in a rather unfortunate way.

   While in college he was building a hypersonic wind tunnel
for a course on fluid dynamics.  The throat had some rather
complex curves, so my friend decided to machine a negative
and make the throat out of poured epoxy.

   He didn't have room at his crib, so he talked a girl he
liked into letting him use her living room.  After setting
up the base and mold on her coffee table he taped some
cardboard around it and poured in about three cubic feet
of epoxy.

   They went off to do Something Else, and when my friend
came back into the living room about an hour later he saw
the tape bubbling at the seams and the cardboard form about
ready to burst.

   In one swift motion he picked the whole thing up and
threw it out the window.  To this day there's probably an
interesting "rock" in the garden below.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340058 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 21:40:12 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec5c3s$gf7$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>   <1155828768.630072.199090@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>   <1155859869.398633.22970@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>   <1155861188.185315.55560@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <XybFg.1936$Cs3.1@tornado.socal.rr.com> <1155901724.231764.99720@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <XGjFg.1395$YC3.742@tornado.socal.rr.com>

In <XGjFg.1395$YC3.742@tornado.socal.rr.com> Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com> writes:

>I usually mix it on the back of a business card with a
>Xcelite screwdriver. (The small red handled pocket size)

   I clip a large cable tie in half.  The large ones are
stiffer, but too long.  Reddies work better, but then you
have a messy screwdriver.

   Epoxy's exothermic.  When you feel the mix start to
get warm thru the card, it's ready to use!

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340059 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 21:46:34 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec5cfq$gf7$2@reader2.panix.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net> <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com>

In <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com> "Lyndell Scott" <lfscott@flash.net> writes:

>I think this is what it is supposed to look like: 
>http://radioatticarchives.com/images/z/Zenith_77_WHRM.jpg

   Oh, man, that grille is sexy!  Is that fine lattice
work, or a design on the cloth itself?  If the former,
it's gotta be incredibly delicate.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340060 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Mark Oppat" <moppat@comcast.NOSPAMnet>
Subject: FS: Riders Vol 6, 8, 12
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 18:08:16 -0400
Message-ID: <D7OdnduMyffEpHvZnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@comcast.com>

I have these Riders for sale.  all are very good condition.
$12 ea + ship (media mail would be about $4 per book I think) Or, $32 for
all 3, plus postage.  I have another spare vol 12 too.

email directly to moppat at comcast dot net.





Article: 340061 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net> <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com> <ec5cfq$gf7$2@reader2.panix.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <lTqFg.11583$eL2.9804@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 22:08:17 GMT


"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message news:ec5cfq$gf7$2@reader2.panix.com...
> In <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com> "Lyndell Scott" 
> <lfscott@flash.net> writes:
>
>>I think this is what it is supposed to look like:
>>http://radioatticarchives.com/images/z/Zenith_77_WHRM.jpg
>
>   Oh, man, that grille is sexy!  Is that fine lattice
> work, or a design on the cloth itself?  If the former,
> it's gotta be incredibly delicate.
>


I just searched for some older auctions of this model.  Imagine that, another one, 
and also from the Twin Cities area!

Maybe the close up of the grill from this auction will excite you!  ;o)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6618452166

jim menning 




Article: 340062 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "AuroraOldRadios" <menwagoh@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Philco 18- what happened to the transformer?
Date: 18 Aug 2006 15:19:38 -0700
Message-ID: <1155939577.986765.278030@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>
References: <e9ff7f7053fedaeebbdf8dd1f41ab348@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com>


Pete_O wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/1933-DECO-PHILCO-CATHEDRAL-RADIO-MODEL-18-SHARP_W0QQitemZ160020514783QQihZ006QQcategoryZ38034QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> Is it someone's conversion to an AC/DC model?  I think investing in a
> replacement transformer would have been a better idea.  -Pete
It's a virtual transformer. Maybe there's a filament transformer under
the chassis and the B+ is handled like an AC/DC set with a diode.



Article: 340063 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 22:34:22 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec5f9e$rgu$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net> <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com> <ec5cfq$gf7$2@reader2.panix.com> <lTqFg.11583$eL2.9804@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>

In <lTqFg.11583$eL2.9804@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> writes:

>I just searched for some older auctions of this model.  Imagine that, another one, 
>and also from the Twin Cities area!

>Maybe the close up of the grill from this auction will excite you!  ;o)

>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6618452166

   That's hot.  If it weren't for those sliding doors that grille
probably wouldn;t have survived beyond the first year.  Betcha
there was lots of cussing at the factory making that piece.

   Overall a very nice radio.  And who can't love an Automatic
Radio owned and controlled by Zenith Radio Corporation, where
one must loosen thumb nuts to renew the fuse, and comes complete
with a Super Dynamic Lektophone License Reproducer? :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340064 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "flashbk13" <flashbk13@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
Date: 18 Aug 2006 15:50:45 -0700
Message-ID: <1155941445.024798.277940@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>

I only paid $32 for mine (not counting the 1 1/2 hour drive to San
Diego, one way and taking my wife to dinner :) ). Mine is a "shelf
queen" for now as it is in really good cosmetic condition and is
complete. May even work? as for the crt, it does not have any
discolouration or black spots, so it may be good.  Rick.
>
> Those early Motorola, Sentinel, Admiral, Airline, etc. sets are very common around
> here.  Every radio meet will have several to choose from, many/most under $50.  The
> sets are cheap, because nobody can get a good CRT.  Most will end up being "shelf
> queens", or being passed around from one hopeful restorer to another until they
> finally get tossed.
> 
> jim menning



Article: 340065 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net> <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com> <ec5cfq$gf7$2@reader2.panix.com> <lTqFg.11583$eL2.9804@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:53:39 -0500
Message-ID: <iNCdnUf6lLRp2XvZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@sigecom.net>

Whar year was this set made?

Bruce 




Article: 340066 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com> <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec326v$lpi$2@reader2.panix.com> <3-WdnU_UqYueYHjZnZ2dnUVZ_oqdnZ2d@sigecom.net> <ec51t6$1u8$1@reader2.panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:55:31 -0500
Message-ID: <meqdncVPKe_52HvZnZ2dnUVZ_rKdnZ2d@sigecom.net>


>>Tim, just remember, you can't sit a wet glass on chrome. :-0
>> (running (like hell)  for cover).....
>
>   Eh?  My Sparton mirror-top ain't got no chrome.  The radio
> that does is WAY too big to use as a coffee table. :)
>
> -- 
>                                        Tim Mullen


Heh, heh., heh....... 




Article: 340067 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net>
References: <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:57:09 -0500
Message-ID: <-_mdnf25Xsda2HvZnZ2dnUVZ_vSdnZ2d@sigecom.net>


"Ken G." <goodguyy@webtv.net> wrote in message 
news:6323-44E3202E-4@storefull-3233.bay.webtv.net...
> Actually i go without till i have to have one then i make it . Cutting
> out the wood and getting it perfect is the hardest or longest part . I
> do not use the oven . It causes bubbles in the plastic .
>

Ken, try Eddies' method. It works very well.

Bruce 




Article: 340068 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net> <evnFg.1979$q63.1711@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com> <ec5cfq$gf7$2@reader2.panix.com> <lTqFg.11583$eL2.9804@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <iNCdnUf6lLRp2XvZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <SCrFg.11761$eL2.9256@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 22:58:58 GMT


"Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net> wrote in message 
news:iNCdnUf6lLRp2XvZnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@sigecom.net...
>
> Whar year was this set made?
>
> Bruce
>

I'd guess 1930.

jim menning 




Article: 340069 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <22%Eg.4765$zg.985@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:59:46 -0500
Message-ID: <gtGdnT3gHI7523vZnZ2dnUVZ_s6dnZ2d@sigecom.net>



> Never had a problem with Bill's site.
>
> jim menning



Works for me too.
Bruce 




Article: 340070 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: cuhulin@webtv.net
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:51:11 -0500
Message-ID: <4787-44E6445F-13@storefull-3253.bay.webtv.net>
References: <1155923612.385407.285500@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com>

That was so funny,it made my little doggy jump off her couch and holler.
www.cattledog.com    www.acdca.org
cuhulin



Article: 340071 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "William Sommerwerck" <gizzledgeezer@comcast.net>
References: <S4mdnROyXILeOnjZnZ2dnUVZ_t6dnZ2d@comcast.com> <27784-44E5BBC3-22@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 16:46:40 -0700
Message-ID: <luGdnffPG9nLzHvZnZ2dnUVZ_oqdnZ2d@comcast.com>

>> ...LEDs don't have a broad spectrum.

> What about white LEDs?

A good question, which I deliberately avoided in my previous post.

To the best of my knowledge, white LEDs are actually blue LEDs that include
a phophor that fluoresces yellow (under blue light). The result is that the
LED _looks_ white, but it's actually mostly two wavelengths -- not a
continuous or even broad spectrum.

Anybody have any other information?




Article: 340072 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 23:54:41 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec5k01$k7k$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <hIidnWGpULc8N3nZnZ2dnUVZ_qudnZ2d@giganews.com> <ec2pt7$mrr$3@reader2.panix.com> <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com>

In <fYednRcNda9-mXjZnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@giganews.com> "Phil Nelson" <philnelson@nospam.xyz> writes:

>> the backside grille cloth is there for ventilation, or to make
>> the design symmetrical.  Which is kind of odd, since the radio
>> would likely be positioned against a wall where you couldn't
>> see the back.

>I would guess both ventilation and symmetry. And many chairs are set out in 
>the middle of a room, where you might see some or all of the back grille.

   I measured my Sparton 231R which I'm currently using as a
coffee table, and it's 23"H x 25"W x 16"D, compared to 19.5" x
26" x 15" for this one, which would make it far better for the
purpose -- not to mention the flatter top.  This set looks like
it was made to be a coffee table, which would explain the grille
front and back.

   Hey, Jeff!  If you get it I'll bring some beers over to test
it out. :)  BTW, the current high bidder, "timtoy21", ain't me.
I won't go after this one.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340073 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycapnospam.rr.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <x0uFg.25834$8j3.14313@twister.nyroc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 01:42:53 GMT

I did one of these... NO FUN!  lots of potmetal tuning cap issues and 
grounding problems.
Nice when done though.

keith

"Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote in message 
news:12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com...
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Zenith-Console-Radio-130551-Long-Distance-Auto_W0QQitemZ280019172447
>
> John H.
> 




Article: 340074 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: ken scharf <wa2mzeNOSPAMBOTS@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Coilwinder
References: <FmNEg.73092$zy5.1335800@twister1.libero.it> <In8Fg.30144$Uq1.7184@bignews6.bellsouth.net> <c29Fg.74056$zy5.1347028@twister1.libero.it>
Message-ID: <W0uFg.38130$Uq1.26976@bignews6.bellsouth.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 21:43:29 -0400

Daniele wrote:
> "ken scharf"
> 
>> Make your own!
>> http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/coil/index.html
>>
>> I've been meaning to try this one.  I have the book,
>> doesn't look too hard.
> 
> I have the old Morris. I was planning to buy that book
> i could not find a morris. Anyway i feel it interesting,
> however i have no way to build gears and cams, i guess
> i would be locked at that point.
> 
The author has done a neat job on this one.  He used washers
as cams and little machine work is required.  No lathe needed.
Most metal parts are cut with tin snips, or a hack saw and
made from Stanley mending plates.


Article: 340075 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycapnospam.rr.com>
References: <e9ff7f7053fedaeebbdf8dd1f41ab348@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com>
Subject: Re: Philco 18- what happened to the transformer?
Message-ID: <W2uFg.25835$8j3.6521@twister.nyroc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 01:45:26 GMT

18 Power transformers are VERY hard to find!


Keith


"Pete_O" <stateasylum@private> wrote in message 
news:e9ff7f7053fedaeebbdf8dd1f41ab348@localhost.talkaboutcollecting.com...
> http://cgi.ebay.com/1933-DECO-PHILCO-CATHEDRAL-RADIO-MODEL-18-SHARP_W0QQitemZ160020514783QQihZ006QQcategoryZ38034QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> Is it someone's conversion to an AC/DC model?  I think investing in a
> replacement transformer would have been a better idea.  -Pete
> 




Article: 340076 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: It speaks!
References: <5o1Fg.66614$u05.36976@trnddc01> <24138-44E5C5E9-60@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <TiuFg.346$St4.86@trnddc01>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 02:02:27 GMT

cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:
> I know it's a dumb question,but what does AA5 mean?
> cuhulin
> 


All american five, the ubiquitous 5 tube "AC/DC" deathtrap radios.


Article: 340077 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
References: <S4mdnROyXILeOnjZnZ2dnUVZ_t6dnZ2d@comcast.com> <27784-44E5BBC3-22@storefull-3171.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <jluFg.348$St4.296@trnddc01>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 02:05:03 GMT

Bill Sheppard wrote:
>>...LEDs don't have a broad spectrum.
> 
> 
> What about white LEDs? 
> 
> oc
> 


They have a rather messy spectrum, they're a blue chip coated with a 
phosphor to make it look white, but look through a diffraction grating 
and they're not at all continuous and don't filter well to other colors.


Article: 340078 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Engineer" <analogdino@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Simulating Neon Bulb Glow Using LED
Date: 18 Aug 2006 19:46:10 -0700
Message-ID: <1155955570.736660.219290@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <Ha1Eg.15623$vj1.11856@bignews5.bellsouth.net>

Tim Mullen wrote:
> In <Xns98223B053848RrrrFfffTttt4396hotm@216.168.3.44> Jim Land <RrrrFfffTttt(NO)@(SPAM)hotmail.com> writes:
>
> >"Engineer" <analogdino@rogers.com> wrote in news:1155688857.749094.312170
> >@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:
>
> >> Or use two back to back LED's
>
> >Huh?     __|/|__
>           | |\| |
>        ---|     |---
>           |_|\|_|
>             |/|
>
>    Same idea he mentioned as using a parallel protection diode, just
> make the diode an LED instead.
>
>    Not like I'd trust this, but all diodes will avalanche at some
> point when reverse biased and exhibit a zener effect.  If the series
> resistor is large enough and the reverse current small enough it
> might survive without the added protection of a parallel diode.
>
> --
>                                         Tim Mullen

You can trust the parallel back to back diode format since both diodes
only ever see a PIV equal to the forward drop of the other one, say 2
VDC.  However, my preference is for the ordinary safety diode since
(A) I would not know where to shine the second LED! (Unless it was a
white for for a  dial lighjt), and (B) I have a lot of surplus cheap
regular diodes from old switching P/S's. 
Cheers,
Roger



Article: 340079 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 22:47:12 -0400
Message-ID: <12ecuthhus9r7dd@corp.supernews.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net>


"Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net> wrote in message 
news:-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net...
>

> I wonder if they have the legs that have been cut off?


SOOO well done I missed it until I read the description! I was thinking when 
I posted it this would have to go REAL cheap to be worth it, and it will....

John H. 




Article: 340080 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 22:54:43 -0400
Message-ID: <12ecvbkguildg8f@corp.supernews.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


"Peter Wieck" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message 
news:1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>

>
> You must be getting grumpy in your old age...

Wrong. A fifteen tube radio should have a 2nd IF stage. It could have THREE 
with that many tubes, easily. My 9 tube including eye Stromberg 140L has 2 
IF stages, so does the 10 tube Am. Bosch 595, 11 tube Philco 116- shall I go 
on? This is a nine tube set with a big audio/power section.

John H. 




Article: 340081 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Engineer" <analogdino@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 18 Aug 2006 19:56:23 -0700
Message-ID: <1155956183.649357.257040@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl><_y%Eg.1161$Tl4.1095@dukeread06>

Ken wrote:
> Super glue is very good, fairly heat resistant. Epoxy is better, and
> furnace cement is best, but hard to get in the groove because of the
> grit. Ken
> N Cook wrote:

Superglue needs moisture as a catalyst to set.  When I use it I first
breathe heavily on the parts (no jokes, please! <g>!)
Cheers,
Roger



Article: 340082 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <12ea775grvv9ub0@corp.supernews.com> <-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net> <12ecuthhus9r7dd@corp.supernews.com>
Subject: Re: Hey Menning, You See Dis ?
Message-ID: <O8vFg.11791$eL2.7934@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 02:59:58 GMT


"Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> wrote in message 
news:12ecuthhus9r7dd@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Bruce Mercer" <maxbud12@XXXsigecom.net> wrote in message 
> news:-OydndSkfrKSZ3jZnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@sigecom.net...
>>
>
>> I wonder if they have the legs that have been cut off?
>
>
> SOOO well done I missed it until I read the description! I was thinking when I 
> posted it this would have to go REAL cheap to be worth it, and it will....
>
> John H.
>

That's because it wasn't in the original description, he changed it after people 
questioned him about it.

jim menning 




Article: 340083 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 23:01:12 -0400
Message-ID: <12ecvnp2lc2p104@corp.supernews.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155911506.455769.191830@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <44e5d67b$0$15849$88260bb3@free.teranews.com>


"Paul Dietenberger" <pdieten@NyOaShPoAoM.com> wrote in message 
news:44e5d67b$0$15849$88260bb3@free.teranews.com...
>   those who worship at the altar of slightly perceptible reception 
> upgrades.
>

Do I detect a note of sarcasm? Fine then-  the Commander's brainwashing has 
endured nearly a century. Never have so many coveted so little so much.

John H. 




Article: 340084 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 23:03:31 -0400
Message-ID: <12ecvs48toise96@corp.supernews.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>


PS- I bet you'd be hard pressed to find another chassis over 12 tubes 
WITHOUT a 2nd IF stage. But Zenith must have had their reasons (yes- 
cheapness).

John H. 




Article: 340085 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 23:07:50 -0400
Message-ID: <12ed047o8pao5a2@corp.supernews.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

 I take back everything I said, I just noted it has a factory 6T5 which 
redeems it almost completely.Not to say it's WORTH $400-, I just like other 
15 tubers better. There's been not much traffic here lately, I was just 
having fun.

John H. 




Article: 340086 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Brian McAllister <Sunset@Blandings.com.invalid>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <8uvce25m2mms9mgj6f1aa1r4032jatln91@4ax.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 03:10:21 GMT

On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 12:21:35 GMT, "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
wrote:

>For me personally, I've used Earthlink in the past, now I'm using Verizon 
>(both DSL).  I'm running Windows XP.  I've tried Verizon's own browser, 
>along with Internet Explorer, Netscape, and Mozilla.  Doesn't work with any 
>of 'em.

Gary,

I get it ok here (Same DSL, ISP and city as you) using XP and Opera
browser.  It also works OK with IE.  Be sure to use the www. , and not
just dialcover.com/




Article: 340087 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com>
Subject: GE P780E Transistor Set
Date: 18 Aug 2006 20:12:21 -0700
Message-ID: <1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

I've been looking around for this set for awhile.  I finally found one
very reasonable and in good condition at a Hamfest in town.  Does
anyone know more about the set?  I heard rumor that this was a very
early version of the GE Super Radio line of portable sets.  Receiver on
this thing is hot to say the least.  Selective as hell, too.  I can
hear AM 700 WLW in Cincinatti with WGN's 50k watt transmitter in my
back yard.   Looks to be made around 1960.


Thanks, 

GB



Article: 340088 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 03:27:41 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec60fd$rpq$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12ed047o8pao5a2@corp.supernews.com>

In <12ed047o8pao5a2@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> writes:

> I take back everything I said, I just noted it has a factory 6T5 which 
>redeems it almost completely.

   John, how can you tell?  I zoomed in on the eye, but couldn't tell
one way or the other.

>Not to say it's WORTH $400-, I just like other 
>15 tubers better. There's been not much traffic here lately, I was just 
>having fun.

   Lemme take a shot from a different angle, then. :)

   The cabinet's not bad, but kinda plain.  Sorta looks like a
giant Walton's set.  Now if they had put some curves on it --
given it some hips -- and used more exotic veneers like on the
12S267, then, then... you'd have a helluva set!

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340089 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 23:38:28 -0400
Message-ID: <12ed1tlgu87fe52@corp.supernews.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12ed047o8pao5a2@corp.supernews.com> <ec60fd$rpq$1@reader2.panix.com>


"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
news:ec60fd$rpq$1@reader2.panix.com...
>  >   John, how can you tell?  I zoomed in on the eye, but couldn't tell
> one way or the other.

It's clearly marked on the lower left corner of the schematic.

John H. 




Article: 340090 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 23:46:36 -0400
Message-ID: <12ed2ctb5ccda73@corp.supernews.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12ed047o8pao5a2@corp.supernews.com> <ec60fd$rpq$1@reader2.panix.com>


"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
news:ec60fd$rpq$1@reader2.panix.com...

>
>   John, how can you tell?  I zoomed in on the eye, but couldn't tell
> one way or the other.

I get it now- WHO KNOWS if it is STILL a 6T5 in there is what you're saying, 
and if it is any good if there. I wasn't talking about that though, I'm 
giving credit to the designer who used such a cool eye tube. It does 
reinforce Peter's point that they were making a real effort on whiz-bang 
appearance here.

I assume everything is bad on a set I realize now. I also have a 6T5 and no 
current set in which it came original equipment so I wouldn't worry.

John H. 




Article: 340091 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 03:46:50 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec61ja$q1e$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12ed047o8pao5a2@corp.supernews.com> <ec60fd$rpq$1@reader2.panix.com> <12ed1tlgu87fe52@corp.supernews.com>

In <12ed1tlgu87fe52@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> writes:

>"Tim Mullen" <tim@panix.com> wrote in message 
>news:ec60fd$rpq$1@reader2.panix.com...

[this set having a 6T5 eye tube]

>>  >   John, how can you tell?  I zoomed in on the eye, but couldn't tell
>> one way or the other.

>It's clearly marked on the lower left corner of the schematic.

   No, I mean how can you tell this radio still has the correct
eye tube?  You can kind of see a pattern on the eye when you
zoom in; I thought maybe you recognized the burn pattern.

   'Course, the easiest (perhaps) way would be to e-mail the
seller and provide guidance on what to look for.  I'm not that
interested.  Just idle curiosity.

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340092 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Tim Mullen <tim@panix.com>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 03:51:36 +0000 (UTC)
Message-ID: <ec61s7$41r$1@reader2.panix.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155905116.473450.111830@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <12ed047o8pao5a2@corp.supernews.com> <ec60fd$rpq$1@reader2.panix.com> <12ed2ctb5ccda73@corp.supernews.com>

In <12ed2ctb5ccda73@corp.supernews.com> "Hagstar" <yonnyKILL@SPAMMERSatt.net> writes:

>I also have a 6T5 and no current set in which it came original
>equipment so I wouldn't worry.

   You're ahead of me.  I've had a 12S265 for ages with a 6E5
(or 6G5, forget which is correct sub) that I've been meaning
to get around to replacing with the Correct One.

   Maybe one of these days I'll try and talk ya into hoss-trading
for 10 IF stages... :) :)

-- 
                                        Tim Mullen
------------------------------------------------------------------
Am I in your basement? Looking for antique televisions, fans, etc.
------ finger this account or call anytime: (212)-463-0552 -------


Article: 340093 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 00:25:20 -0400
From: Tom Adkins <newton5@remove.comcast.net>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com> <1155911506.455769.191830@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <44e5d67b$0$15849$88260bb3@free.teranews.com> <12ecvnp2lc2p104@corp.supernews.com>
Message-ID: <gcGdnam8faoxDHvZnZ2dnUVZ_vOdnZ2d@comcast.com>

Hagstar wrote:

>...  the Commander's brainwashing has 
> endured nearly a century. Never have so many coveted so little so much.
> 
> John H. 
> 
> 
  Snort....... Thanks John. Now I have to clean my keyboard!


Article: 340094 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Jeffrey D Angus <jangus@socal.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Signal Corps TG-34-A Keyer Tape
References: <Lj7Fg.1201$Tl4.75@dukeread06> <BNbFg.1377$YC3.1163@tornado.socal.rr.com> <lghFg.1420$Tl4.733@dukeread06> <aQmFg.1443$Tl4.1181@dukeread06>
Message-ID: <RIwFg.1986$Cs3.1195@tornado.socal.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 04:46:41 GMT



Ken wrote:
> Given. Ken

Thanks ken.

Jeff

-- 
RESTRICTED AREA. Anyone intruding shall immediately become subject to
the jurisdiction of military law. Intruders will be subject to lethal
force, without warning, and on sight. USE OF DEADLY FORCE IS AUTHORIZED
under the Internal Security Act of 1950.


Article: 340095 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: This SEEMS Like a Nice Radio
Date: 18 Aug 2006 22:39:31 -0700
Message-ID: <1155965971.473650.138260@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <12ea73tgcdi2b51@corp.supernews.com>


Tom Adkins wrote:
> Hagstar wrote:
>
> >...  the Commander's brainwashing has
> > endured nearly a century. Never have so many coveted so little so much.
> >
> > John H.
> >
> >
>   Snort....... Thanks John. Now I have to clean my keyboard!

Meanwhile, I know I have all the help I could need with my chassis, and
the result will be charming indeed. The Commander was my thanks and
regards, wherever he sailed off to.



Article: 340096 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 18 Aug 2006 22:43:12 -0700
Message-ID: <1155966191.998531.117160@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


Steven wrote:
> Peter Wieck wrote:
> > Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> >
> > > There's a third alternative. Left over adhesive from the electrical
> > > tape. It will "poison" the epoxy and keep it from curing properly.
> > >
> >
> > That would come under "reading the directions"...
> >
> > "Make sure that the surfaces are clean and free of.... "
> >
> > And so forth.
> >
> > Peter Wieck
> > Wyncote, PA
>
> Well I found a popsicle stick if it helps.
>
> Course I also found a potentially GRATIS stray KLH Model Six I could
> possibly have and use too...c'est la vie, cart it before the auction
> tosses it.

It's here right now and I'm told it's the earlier three-terminal model.
Have a GIFs of the owner's manual too. I are a lucky dawg, even more so
if it works.



Article: 340097 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Scott W. Harvey" <NOT_MY_REAL@email.com>
Subject: Re: crt tester advice
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 22:44:16 -0700
Message-ID: <ec68bs01070@news4.newsguy.com>
References: <1155813746.926998.48790@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <Zj1Fg.66611$u05.62310@trnddc01> <QK1Fg.4780$zg.3053@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <ro6Fg.73655$MW.26106@trnddc04> <wG7Fg.5626$zg.4626@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <FP9Fg.11558$5M.4140@trnddc02> <jzbFg.5641$zg.4374@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>

jim menning wrote:
> "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message 
> news:FP9Fg.11558$5M.4140@trnddc02...
>>>>
>>>> That's a shame, can they be rebuilt, or are there any suitable subs? In my 
>>>> experience CRTs in general are quite forgiving to substitution though I have much 
>>>> less experience with the old electrostatic type.
>>>
>>> They can be rebuilt, but the cost often exceeds the value of the set it would go 
>>> in. I think Hawkeye may be the last to offer this service.  No substitutions as 
>>> far as I know, unless you want a green picture using a scope tube.
>>>
>>> jim menning
>>
>> Seems it might be reasonable for the value of the sets to increase in that case, I 
>> suppose the value depends on how badly one wants theirs to be working.
> 
> Those early Motorola, Sentinel, Admiral, Airline, etc. sets are very common around 
> here.  Every radio meet will have several to choose from, many/most under $50.  The 
> sets are cheap, because nobody can get a good CRT.  Most will end up being "shelf 
> queens", or being passed around from one hopeful restorer to another until they 
> finally get tossed.

The Motorola VT71 is a somewhat special case. It used a open-air ballast 
tube that was notoriously prone to early failure (In fact, I have NEVER 
seen a VT71 with a good one). Given that and the fact that these TVs 
were introductory "starter" sets with tiny, tiny screens, a single 
failure after a year or so of viewing often relegated these sets to the 
attic in favor of a new set with a more family-friendly 12 or 15 inch 
screen.

What that means is that the CRT in an untouched VT71 is more likely to 
have low hours on it, and thus be in good condition than just about any 
other early TV.



My procedure for doing these types of sets:

I have a dud scope CRT for testing purposes during restoration. Its sole 
purpose is to provide proper continuity to the filaments. Once the set 
is recapped, out-of-tolerance resistors changed, and the set is able to 
receive stations (I can hear audio) and the voltages look right, then I 
use a good scope CRT for any final troubleshooting needed to the video 
circuitry. Once that is done, then-and only then-will I attempt to use 
the original CRT.

Does that mean that I will have no joy after a lot of work if the 
original CRT turns out to be bad? Yeah, at least for awhile. But, it 
also means that I will not inadvertently blow out a potentially good 
original CRT in a moment of carelessness during restoration.

Why am I so cautious? Because:

(A) The first electrostatic seven incher I ever attempted to restore (A 
Hallicrafters-built Monkey Wards TV) wound up being my first seven-inch 
shelf queen after something I did wrong (I never figured out what) 
caused the filament of the CRT to blow out in a flash of bright, orange 
light. This after a good 12 or so hours of restoration effort had 
already taken place. I was disgusted enough with that outcome that I 
swore off trying to do any more of these type sets for about 15 years.

(B)Good 7JP4s are hardly as rare as Faberge eggs, but I wouldn't exactly 
want to try to hunt one down unless I really, really HAD to. They show 
up on eBay from time to time, usually at ludicrious prices. I have not 
seen one at a swap meet or flea in at least five years. Most people who 
have one do not want to sell even if they have no set to put it in. They 
are scarce.....Scarce enough that one guy I know wound up using parts of 
a contemporary TV set to allow his old set to drive a modern CRT until 
he could find a suitable replacement (He's still looking).

The scope version of this CRT (7JP1 IIRC) is much more readily 
available, so worse case scenario, that could be used. The screen is 
green and permeable though.

-Scott


Article: 340098 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com>
References: <1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: GE P780E Transistor Set
Message-ID: <YbyFg.12222$eL2.11906@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 06:28:08 GMT


"RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com> wrote in message 
news:1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> I've been looking around for this set for awhile.  I finally found one
> very reasonable and in good condition at a Hamfest in town.  Does
> anyone know more about the set?  I heard rumor that this was a very
> early version of the GE Super Radio line of portable sets.  Receiver on
> this thing is hot to say the least.  Selective as hell, too.  I can
> hear AM 700 WLW in Cincinatti with WGN's 50k watt transmitter in my
> back yard.   Looks to be made around 1960.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> GB
>

Very good front end, loud clear audio, and very heavy.  Also, very common.  I saw at 
least a half dozen of these at Bolingbrook this month, I'm really surprised you 
didn't spot any there.  I myself have sold at least 5 or 6 of these over the last 5 
years.  They usually seem to go for $15-30, but I have also seen very optimistic 
people go back home with theirs when pricing them any higher.

They are often referred to as a forerunner to the superadio, but that's probably just 
because they were GE products that were sensitive, selective, and had a good audio 
amp and large speaker.  I don't think the "superadio" marketing concept was thought 
of when the high-performance P780s were released some 20 years earlier.

The later true "superadios" of course were also FM sets.  And you don't want to own a 
superadio-III.  Their new varactor tuning design didn't come close to matching the 
quality or performance of the superadio-I or superadio-II with the variable-capacitor 
tuning.

jim menning 




Article: 340099 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Scott W. Harvey" <NOT_MY_REAL@email.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 23:30:08 -0700
Message-ID: <ec6b1r013mi@news4.newsguy.com>
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <RlZEg.62837$hH1.2798@trnddc08>

Gary Tayman wrote:

> 
> However there is a very good reason why I did get rid of it.  It goes, as I 
> recall, on the right side of the chair.  It requires of course a wall 
> outlet, and an external antenna.  Regardless of whether it fits the room 
> decor, it seems every place I have ever tried to put it, it seems impossible 
> to arrange the room around it in such a way that it fits correctly, and 
> doesn't have wires dangling across the floor. 


Keep in mind that some 1930s homes had electrical outlets built right 
into the floor to accomodate chairside floor lamps and things like this. 
That is a feature that is now banned by code due the possibility of 
spilled liquids getting into the outlets.

-Scott




Article: 340100 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: nichidoishere@gmail.com
Subject: Antique Phonograph section of Japanese auctions
Date: 18 Aug 2006 23:52:09 -0700
Message-ID: <1155970329.816911.254970@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>

Hi,
You can use JAC (Japan Auction Center) to bid on Yahoo Japan Auctions
in real-time and have your won auctions sent to you with most
affordable service prices.

www.japanauctioncenter.com

See the link below for "Special Phonograph section"
https://www.japanauctioncenter.com/auctions/browse.php?category=http://list5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/2084048439-category-leaf.html

The advantages of JAC are:

1) Affordable service prices
2) No handling fee on international delivery
3) One handling fee for multiple auctions won from the same seller
4) Best exhange rates (actual rates of Paypal)
5) REAL-TIME bidding
6) Very simple bidding system
7) No need to register your credit card
8) Flexible delivery

Best wishes
Ishida from,
www.japanauctioncenter.com



Article: 340101 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: 19 Aug 2006 01:46:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1155977174.139732.27070@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl>


Steven wrote:
> Steven wrote:
> > Peter Wieck wrote:
> > > Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> > >
> > > > There's a third alternative. Left over adhesive from the electrical
> > > > tape. It will "poison" the epoxy and keep it from curing properly.
> > > >
> > >
> > > That would come under "reading the directions"...
> > >
> > > "Make sure that the surfaces are clean and free of.... "
> > >
> > > And so forth.
> > >
> > > Peter Wieck
> > > Wyncote, PA
> >
> > Well I found a popsicle stick if it helps.
> >
> > Course I also found a potentially GRATIS stray KLH Model Six I could
> > possibly have and use too...c'est la vie, cart it before the auction
> > tosses it.
>
> It's here right now and I'm told it's the earlier three-terminal model.
> Have a GIFs of the owner's manual too. I are a lucky dawg, even more so
> if it works.

Indeed it does, but it's not a huge bass boom type thing, it has some
accuracy and upper register that pass the Blondie test and I really
like it! Two would be cool, but this is a great speaker for mono even.
If I do switch the boost in it doesn't like it much and it blows the
grille cloth out with the beat at a point (should I try to starch it or
just not care)?

I don't think I'll give up the Philips, focusing on correcting the
dial(s) on the HK230A Nocturne and (bummer) selling it. The Philips
needs switch cleaning also mostly the volume and I think it will become
the workshop set. Besides, I like the darn thing about as much as the
Pioneers!

[disclaimer] This has been the federally mandated wobbly solid state
equal time response skewed toward early tube stereo/hi-fi amps. No
electrons were harmed in the transmission of this message, but I nicked
myself good shaving the other days and made a doofus scratch at it
tonight. Stay tuned for Walter Cronkite and the CBS Bicentennial Minute.



Article: 340102 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "JOHN D" <jawnd393one@yahoo.com>
References: <1EBEg.48508$hH1.21195@trnddc08> <9250-44E30B4E-2@storefull-3251.bay.webtv.net> <FJEEg.8529$kO3.2476@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com> <xPFEg.4483$zg.4078@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com> <jbZEg.62835$hH1.58625@trnddc08> <8uvce25m2mms9mgj6f1aa1r4032jatln91@4ax.com>
Subject: Re: HOW ARE THE DIAL COVERS GOING?
Message-ID: <AoBFg.817$E_.175@trnddc06>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 10:06:24 GMT


I can get to dialcover.com now. I don't know whats different. I've not been
able to connect there for some time.
A couple days ago I tried connecting directly to the DSL modem, instead of
through the router, and it wouldn't connect to anywhere although it used to.
I couldn't reach it with my wife's computer either. Mine's running Win98 and
her's is XP. A ping didn't see it either. But just now I tried again and I
am connected to dialcover. It was interesting to see the stuff about the
Lustron home. Just a few years ago there was one for sale locally.
Just tried ping again and I can ping dialcover.com. I think somebody
somewhere fixed somthing.
John




Article: 340103 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com>
Subject: Re: GE P780E Transistor Set
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 19:07:20 +0900
Message-ID: <ec6nnb$sc9$1@news2.kornet.net>
References: <1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <YbyFg.12222$eL2.11906@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>



-- 
Say no to institutionalized interference.
Just say NO to HD/IBOC!
"jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote in message 
news:YbyFg.12222$eL2.11906@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> "RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com> wrote in message 
> news:1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>>
>> I've been looking around for this set for awhile.  I finally found one
>> very reasonable and in good condition at a Hamfest in town.  Does
>> anyone know more about the set?  I heard rumor that this was a very
>> early version of the GE Super Radio line of portable sets.  Receiver on
>> this thing is hot to say the least.  Selective as hell, too.  I can
>> hear AM 700 WLW in Cincinatti with WGN's 50k watt transmitter in my
>> back yard.   Looks to be made around 1960.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> GB
>>
>
> Very good front end, loud clear audio, and very heavy.  Also, very common. 
> I saw at least a half dozen of these at Bolingbrook this month, I'm really 
> surprised you didn't spot any there.  I myself have sold at least 5 or 6 
> of these over the last 5 years.  They usually seem to go for $15-30, but I 
> have also seen very optimistic people go back home with theirs when 
> pricing them any higher.
>
> They are often referred to as a forerunner to the superadio, but that's 
> probably just because they were GE products that were sensitive, 
> selective, and had a good audio amp and large speaker.  I don't think the 
> "superadio" marketing concept was thought of when the high-performance 
> P780s were released some 20 years earlier.
>
> The later true "superadios" of course were also FM sets.  And you don't 
> want to own a superadio-III.  Their new varactor tuning design didn't come 
> close to matching the quality or performance of the superadio-I or 
> superadio-II with the variable-capacitor tuning.
>


I'm sure glad to see someone else that thinks the SRIII is crapola. It 
fairly ruined GE's reputation for high quality selective/sensitive sets.

As for the P780, I love those sets. As far as I am concerned, it's the best 
portable ever made by a US manufacturer.  Someday I will get another one for 
myself. (I keep buying them and letting friends talk me out of them.. :) )





Article: 340104 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "DJ-Planet*" <fwbemhdp@fuaelhdo.com>
Subject: 8;" New Music Editing Software (FREE)..
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 04:16:52 -0700
Message-ID: <44e6f441$0$12536$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format

--=_NextPart_2rfkindysadvnqw3nerasdf
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 New Promo Software out: http://fta9000.com/Software-Sale/index.htm





d;&GEfouQcU,JY$f9@VKL^"5df3/].DM<JSuA)$$.E,^Tn2h2(%t4V^'ZZe8mUM,BTEpj/9R=
ZPHjlVVEf,o4^NA6`i!b1Ojoqd;?

--=_NextPart_2rfkindysadvnqw3nerasdf
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>

<head>
</head>

<body>

<p>
<a target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://fta9000.com/Software-Sale/index.htm"=
>
<img border=3D"0" src=3D"http://fta9000.com/Software-Sale/Promotional-Lo=
go/MySpace-Promotional2.jpg" width=3D"419" height=3D"413"></a></p>

</body>

</html>




d;&GEfouQcU,JY$f9@VKL^"5df3/].DM<JSuA)$$.E,^Tn2h2(%t4V^'ZZe8mUM,BTEpj/9R=
ZPHjlVVEf,o4^NA6`i!b1Ojoqd;?

--=_NextPart_2rfkindysadvnqw3nerasdf--


Article: 340105 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Unrevealed Source" <unrevealed_source@nospam.com>
Subject: Zenith B600 power cord and reel
Message-ID: <TcDFg.96$CL1.92@newsfe02.lga>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 08:10:29 -0400

Greetings.  I just picked up a very, very nice B600L.  Yes, the leather one 
and it's in great shape in every way.  I bought it as a restoration project, 
but it doesn't need much, mostly just a good cleaning, general checkup and 
alignment.  Can't wait to see how it turns out; I think it will be a real 
beauty.

While I have it apart, I figure I'll replace the power cord.  I'm sure I can 
figure it out, but is there anyone out there that has done this?  Remember 
this is on a retractable reel, which currently works fine and I'd like to 
keep it that way.  I have the schematics and alignment procedures, but not a 
general service manual that details how this assembly comes apart.  Can 
anyone provide some guidance on replacing the power cord, or point me to a 
resource?  Any tips would be appreciated, like "make sure you don't do 
such-and-such" or "be sure to do this before that".

Thanks.
    Jeff 




Article: 340106 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "duty-honor-country" <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 19 Aug 2006 05:47:43 -0700
Message-ID: <1155991663.155343.322880@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


bicyclingg@yahoo.com wrote:
> CAINE wrote:
> > Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> > > Weldon Nudlpudl wrote:
> > > > According to eBay, the 66fourdoor account of Charles M Nudo is again registered:
> > > >
> > > >      <URL:http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=66fourdoor>
> > >
> > > Gentlemen,
> > >
> > > There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of individuals selling
> > > items of dubious virtue on eBay. I seriously doubt that ranting in a
> > > usenet newsgroup is going to make many of them go away.
> > >
> > > The vast majority of people reading this newsgroup are intelligent
> > > enough to read a thread and evauluate its meaning. 1/100th of the
> > > postings on the subject of Mr. Nudo (whoever he is)and his alleged
> > > crimes against humanity (whatever they are) would have been more than
> > > enough to allow the readers of this group to do that.
> > >
> > > RAR+P is a discussion group pertaining to the enjoyment of vintage
> > > radios. It is not a group for the discussion of allegedly fraudulent
> > > eBay sellers. If a reader has discovered a fraudulent seller of RADIO
> > > related merchandise on eBay, a SINGLE posting about that is appropriate
> > > and welcome here. Endless rants and obsessive crusades about eBay fraud
> > > are not.
> > >
> > > If you wish to discuss the issues surrounding Mr. Nudo's continued
> > > presence on eBay, please do so in one of the following ebay-related groups:
> > >
> > > alt.marketing.online.ebay
> > > alt.marketplace.online.ebay
> > > uk.people.consumers.ebay
> > >
> > > Enough with the "Charlie Nudo" crap in RAR+P. I don't give a shit!
> > >
> > > -Scott
> >
> > well said
> >
> > keep in mind, the (2) major proponents of this "crusade", are DeserTBob
> > and Bicycle
>
> Crusade? You brought me into this by claiming Weldon was me. Keep that
> in mind.
>
> >
> > DesertBob has had (2) of his own accounts permanently banned from Ebay
> > during the last year, for auction harassment, driving bidders from
> > Ebay, and posting contact info on Google
> >
> > Bicycle has had (1) account suspended
>
> Post the name of the account then, or are you making up stories?
>
>
> > these 2 guys have nothing better to do all day- they are unemployed,
> > unemployable, and don't have the skill to sell anything on ebay without
> > a fight.  DeserTBob has already bought (8) audio tapes on Ebay for a
> > penny each, just to leave the poor seller (8) negative feedbacks.
>
> Um, don't think so, I'm at work now, why aren't you? Why are you now
> posting as CAINE, Charlie? How many addys do you have?
>
>
> > so your assessment is correct- they are obsessed beyond the pale
>
> Why did you bring my name up in here then? Hmmm?

notice how this "bicycle" guy pops in to call others a "troll"- but
look at what he's been up to lately- he's harassing the radio/phono and
alt.8tracks groups- and he also just created a fake username on Ebay
and bid on a vehicle, then cancelled the username- I guess this guy
doesn't get any, so he needs his "release"- he has admitted to being on
prozac, is divorced, and tried to commit suicide in the Navy, and was
dishonorably discharged

http://groups.google.com/groups/profile?enc_user=QozczBQAAADoCs8zXzYsnVqOau5U8h6ZOPANdqfI6prRsqjc7uCt1A



Article: 340107 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Lee <glog@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 08:48:52 -0400
Message-ID: <ec71b1$e8u$3@registered.motzarella.de>
References: <ec1u0o$hh1$1@inews.gazeta.pl><_y%Eg.1161$Tl4.1095@dukeread06> <1155956183.649357.257040@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>

Engineer wrote:
> Ken wrote:
>> Super glue is very good, fairly heat resistant. Epoxy is better, and
>> furnace cement is best, but hard to get in the groove because of the
>> grit. Ken
>> N Cook wrote:
> 
> Superglue needs moisture as a catalyst to set.  When I use it I first
> breathe heavily on the parts (no jokes, please! <g>!)
> Cheers,
> Roger
> 
Roger..... if no jokes, can we at least conjure up some images? <vbg>
Regards
Lee


Article: 340108 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "duty-honor-country" <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: alignment tapes-drive motors-replacement pads- 8track cartridge format
Date: 19 Aug 2006 05:49:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1155991774.439695.198280@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>
References: <fbi4d2p3ban40cl5bmju23rebtp0fb6i7l@4ax.com>


bicycle wrote:
> CAINE wrote:
> > duty-honor-country wrote:
> > > anyone needing replacement drive motors, alignment tapes, or
> > > replacement pads for 8-track format and machines- see auctions on Ebay
> > > by 66FOURDOOR
> > >
> > > 1463 positive feedbacks- selling history of 5 years- satisfaction
> > > guaranteed or your money back !
> >
> >
>
> Don't forget the Ebay account you lost for fraud.

notice how this "bicycle" guy pops in to call others a "troll"- but
look at what he's been up to lately- he's harassing the radio/phono and
alt.8tracks groups- and he also just created a fake username on Ebay
and bid on a vehicle, then cancelled the username- I guess this guy
doesn't get any, so he needs his "release"- he has admitted to being on
prozac, is divorced, and tried to commit suicide in the Navy, and was
dishonorably discharged

http://groups.google.com/groups/profile?enc_user=QozczBQAAADoCs8zXzYsnVqOau5U8h6ZOPANdqfI6prRsqjc7uCt1A



Article: 340109 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "bicycle" <bicyclingg@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: alignment tapes-drive motors-replacement pads- 8track cartridge format
Date: 19 Aug 2006 06:06:37 -0700
Message-ID: <1155992797.271142.45580@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com>
References: <fbi4d2p3ban40cl5bmju23rebtp0fb6i7l@4ax.com>


duty-honor-country AKA Charlie Nudo, wrote:
> bicycle wrote:
> > CAINE wrote:
> > > duty-honor-country wrote:
> > > > anyone needing replacement drive motors, alignment tapes, or
> > > > replacement pads for 8-track format and machines- see auctions on Ebay
> > > > by 66FOURDOOR
> > > >
> > > > 1463 positive feedbacks- selling history of 5 years- satisfaction
> > > > guaranteed or your money back !
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Don't forget the Ebay account you lost for fraud.
>
> notice how this "bicycle" guy pops in to call others a "troll"- but
> look at what he's been up to lately- he's harassing the radio/phono and
> alt.8tracks groups-

Posting the truth about you isn't harrassing a "group".

> and he also just created a fake username on Ebay
> and bid on a vehicle, then cancelled the username-

Oh really? Show us the proof. Face it Charlie, there are many people
who do not like you, your spamming and your trolling, you don't need my
help to be a failure.

You also claimed my Ebay account was canceled, but never produced the
account name. Why is that?

>I guess this guy
> doesn't get any, so he needs his "release"- he has admitted to being on
> prozac, is divorced, and tried to commit suicide in the Navy, and was
> dishonorably discharged


Sounds like sour grapes because your auctions have a 90% failure rate
due to your trolling and being outed as a con artist.



Article: 340110 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 09:17:22 -0400
From: Tom Adkins <newton5@remove.comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Unusual Sparton Chairside
References: <1155816821.946951.321960@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com> <RlZEg.62837$hH1.2798@trnddc08> <ec6b1r013mi@news4.newsguy.com>
Message-ID: <wb6dnclGLsjQk3rZnZ2dnUVZ_qednZ2d@comcast.com>

Scott W. Harvey wrote:

> 
> Keep in mind that some 1930s homes had electrical outlets built right 
> into the floor to accomodate chairside floor lamps and things like this. 
> That is a feature that is now banned by code due the possibility of 
> spilled liquids getting into the outlets.
> 
> -Scott
> 
> 

  A few years ago I rented duplex built in the mid 20s. It had 2 outlets in the living 
room floor, seemingly for just this purpose. I used one for a Philco chairside. They 
were Edison outlets, looked like a light bulb socket.


Article: 340111 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: GE P780E Transistor Set
Date: 19 Aug 2006 06:16:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1155993394.711638.61930@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

Hi Jim,

Well I own a Super Radio III as well, T R A S H !!  The sensitivity on
AM is good, and I like the wide/narrow selectivity option, but it's not
what the old Super Radio's used to be.  I never paid much for it
anyway, LOL.

The 780 was purchased at a Hamfest in Peotone, Ill last weekend for a
mere
$7.00.  I didn't even argue price considering the prices they usually
go for are four or five times that much, sometimes more.  Funny how I
travelled 60 miles to attend this hamfest only to buy one thing from a
guy who lives two miles from my home, LOL.  This was not planned.

The consensus analogy is a heavy little portable with great
sensitivity.  I love this set!!


GB


jim menning wrote:
> "RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > I've been looking around for this set for awhile.  I finally found one
> > very reasonable and in good condition at a Hamfest in town.  Does
> > anyone know more about the set?  I heard rumor that this was a very
> > early version of the GE Super Radio line of portable sets.  Receiver on
> > this thing is hot to say the least.  Selective as hell, too.  I can
> > hear AM 700 WLW in Cincinatti with WGN's 50k watt transmitter in my
> > back yard.   Looks to be made around 1960.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > GB
> >
>
> Very good front end, loud clear audio, and very heavy.  Also, very common.  I saw at
> least a half dozen of these at Bolingbrook this month, I'm really surprised you
> didn't spot any there.  I myself have sold at least 5 or 6 of these over the last 5
> years.  They usually seem to go for $15-30, but I have also seen very optimistic
> people go back home with theirs when pricing them any higher.
>
> They are often referred to as a forerunner to the superadio, but that's probably just
> because they were GE products that were sensitive, selective, and had a good audio
> amp and large speaker.  I don't think the "superadio" marketing concept was thought
> of when the high-performance P780s were released some 20 years earlier.
>
> The later true "superadios" of course were also FM sets.  And you don't want to own a
> superadio-III.  Their new varactor tuning design didn't come close to matching the
> quality or performance of the superadio-I or superadio-II with the variable-capacitor
> tuning.
> 
> jim menning



Article: 340112 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: bicyclingg@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: 66fourdoor Has Returned
Date: 19 Aug 2006 06:19:14 -0700
Message-ID: <1155993554.106479.75510@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>


duty-honor-country wrote:
> bicyclingg@yahoo.com wrote:
> > CAINE wrote:
> > > Scott W. Harvey wrote:
> > > > Weldon Nudlpudl wrote:
> > > > > According to eBay, the 66fourdoor account of Charles M Nudo is again registered:
> > > > >
> > > > >      <URL:http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=66fourdoor>
> > > >
> > > > Gentlemen,
> > > >
> > > > There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of individuals selling
> > > > items of dubious virtue on eBay. I seriously doubt that ranting in a
> > > > usenet newsgroup is going to make many of them go away.
> > > >
> > > > The vast majority of people reading this newsgroup are intelligent
> > > > enough to read a thread and evauluate its meaning. 1/100th of the
> > > > postings on the subject of Mr. Nudo (whoever he is)and his alleged
> > > > crimes against humanity (whatever they are) would have been more than
> > > > enough to allow the readers of this group to do that.
> > > >
> > > > RAR+P is a discussion group pertaining to the enjoyment of vintage
> > > > radios. It is not a group for the discussion of allegedly fraudulent
> > > > eBay sellers. If a reader has discovered a fraudulent seller of RADIO
> > > > related merchandise on eBay, a SINGLE posting about that is appropriate
> > > > and welcome here. Endless rants and obsessive crusades about eBay fraud
> > > > are not.
> > > >
> > > > If you wish to discuss the issues surrounding Mr. Nudo's continued
> > > > presence on eBay, please do so in one of the following ebay-related groups:
> > > >
> > > > alt.marketing.online.ebay
> > > > alt.marketplace.online.ebay
> > > > uk.people.consumers.ebay
> > > >
> > > > Enough with the "Charlie Nudo" crap in RAR+P. I don't give a shit!
> > > >
> > > > -Scott
> > >
> > > well said
> > >
> > > keep in mind, the (2) major proponents of this "crusade", are DeserTBob
> > > and Bicycle
> >
> > Crusade? You brought me into this by claiming Weldon was me. Keep that
> > in mind.
> >
> > >
> > > DesertBob has had (2) of his own accounts permanently banned from Ebay
> > > during the last year, for auction harassment, driving bidders from
> > > Ebay, and posting contact info on Google
> > >
> > > Bicycle has had (1) account suspended
> >
> > Post the name of the account then, or are you making up stories?
> >
> >
> > > these 2 guys have nothing better to do all day- they are unemployed,
> > > unemployable, and don't have the skill to sell anything on ebay without
> > > a fight.  DeserTBob has already bought (8) audio tapes on Ebay for a
> > > penny each, just to leave the poor seller (8) negative feedbacks.
> >
> > Um, don't think so, I'm at work now, why aren't you? Why are you now
> > posting as CAINE, Charlie? How many addys do you have?
> >
> >
> > > so your assessment is correct- they are obsessed beyond the pale
> >
> > Why did you bring my name up in here then? Hmmm?
>
> notice how this "bicycle" guy pops in to call others a "troll"- but
> look at what he's been up to lately- he's harassing the radio/phono and
> alt.8tracks groups- and he also just created a fake username on Ebay
> and bid on a vehicle, then cancelled the username- I guess this guy
> doesn't get any, so he needs his "release"- he has admitted to being on
> prozac, is divorced, and tried to commit suicide in the Navy, and was
> dishonorably discharged

Charlie, explain to the group why you threatened me, said name the time
and place and when I did you dissappeared?

Why did you drag my name into this group to start with?

Why did you call my wife at work? Why did you threaten her?



Article: 340113 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: alignment tapes-drive motors-replacement pads- 8track cartridge format
Date: 19 Aug 2006 06:21:57 -0700
Message-ID: <1155993717.503440.164690@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <fbi4d2p3ban40cl5bmju23rebtp0fb6i7l@4ax.com>

Will you freaking hedgehogs die and stop bugging the group?



Article: 340114 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: GE P780E Transistor Set
Date: 19 Aug 2006 06:25:07 -0700
Message-ID: <1155993907.332178.182200@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>
References: <1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

B,

With your's, Jim M's, and some EMAIL's that were sent directly to me, I
am ultimatly surprized the radio is that popular.  Then again
considering it's performance and construction it's no wonder they're
collectable and people are saving them from the dumpster.

I hope you do find another.  I played with a few before this purchase,
but I never thought I'd enjoy an American made portable as much as
this.    With mine I've discovered AM stations I've never heard of in
this area day and night.  I am in the back yard of two fifty killowatt
radio stations in Chicago.  The radio ignores the strong RF field
unlike others. At night forget it.  The sky's the limit.

The owner informed me also he has an AC supply for this set he'll give
me as well.  That could be a good thing considering six D cells cannot
last forever.   :)


GB


Brenda Ann wrote:
> --
> Say no to institutionalized interference.
> Just say NO to HD/IBOC!
> "jim menning" <jmenningSPAM@new.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:YbyFg.12222$eL2.11906@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >
> > "RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> >>
> >> I've been looking around for this set for awhile.  I finally found one
> >> very reasonable and in good condition at a Hamfest in town.  Does
> >> anyone know more about the set?  I heard rumor that this was a very
> >> early version of the GE Super Radio line of portable sets.  Receiver on
> >> this thing is hot to say the least.  Selective as hell, too.  I can
> >> hear AM 700 WLW in Cincinatti with WGN's 50k watt transmitter in my
> >> back yard.   Looks to be made around 1960.
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> GB
> >>
> >
> > Very good front end, loud clear audio, and very heavy.  Also, very common.
> > I saw at least a half dozen of these at Bolingbrook this month, I'm really
> > surprised you didn't spot any there.  I myself have sold at least 5 or 6
> > of these over the last 5 years.  They usually seem to go for $15-30, but I
> > have also seen very optimistic people go back home with theirs when
> > pricing them any higher.
> >
> > They are often referred to as a forerunner to the superadio, but that's
> > probably just because they were GE products that were sensitive,
> > selective, and had a good audio amp and large speaker.  I don't think the
> > "superadio" marketing concept was thought of when the high-performance
> > P780s were released some 20 years earlier.
> >
> > The later true "superadios" of course were also FM sets.  And you don't
> > want to own a superadio-III.  Their new varactor tuning design didn't come
> > close to matching the quality or performance of the superadio-I or
> > superadio-II with the variable-capacitor tuning.
> >
>
>
> I'm sure glad to see someone else that thinks the SRIII is crapola. It
> fairly ruined GE's reputation for high quality selective/sensitive sets.
>
> As for the P780, I love those sets. As far as I am concerned, it's the best
> portable ever made by a US manufacturer.  Someday I will get another one for
> myself. (I keep buying them and letting friends talk me out of them.. :) )



Article: 340115 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Would the Nudo Group please join their party in Hell and get the Fashuggina out of Dodge?
Date: 19 Aug 2006 06:25:16 -0700
Message-ID: <1155993916.784843.67290@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <1elCg.578591$Fs1.111499@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>

Why aren't you dealing with it somewhere else????



Article: 340116 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "bicycle" <bicyclingg@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: alignment tapes-drive motors-replacement pads- 8track cartridge format
Date: 19 Aug 2006 06:40:38 -0700
Message-ID: <1155994838.471716.188550@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <fbi4d2p3ban40cl5bmju23rebtp0fb6i7l@4ax.com>


Steven wrote:
> Will you freaking hedgehogs die and stop bugging the group?

Sorry Steve, I post in here evrey now and then under another name and
was suprised when I came in this morning to catch up on the neon-LED
thread and saw Charlie Nudo in here trolling again by adding to an old,
dead thread. Just his habit I guess.

Anyhow, sorry I took his bait and added to the crap. I'll keep to my
other nick and stay on subject from now on.



Article: 340117 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Brenda Ann" <brendad@shinbiro.com>
Subject: Re: GE P780E Transistor Set
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 23:05:05 +0900
Message-ID: <ec75l4$328$1@news2.kornet.net>
References: <1155957141.786906.158280@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>   <YbyFg.12222$eL2.11906@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com>   <ec6nnb$sc9$1@news2.kornet.net> <1155993907.332178.182200@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>



-- 
"RadioGary" <n9vu@yahoo.com> wrote in message 
news:1155993907.332178.182200@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com...
> B,
>
> With your's, Jim M's, and some EMAIL's that were sent directly to me, I
> am ultimatly surprized the radio is that popular.  Then again
> considering it's performance and construction it's no wonder they're
> collectable and people are saving them from the dumpster.
>
> I hope you do find another.  I played with a few before this purchase,
> but I never thought I'd enjoy an American made portable as much as
> this.    With mine I've discovered AM stations I've never heard of in
> this area day and night.  I am in the back yard of two fifty killowatt
> radio stations in Chicago.  The radio ignores the strong RF field
> unlike others. At night forget it.  The sky's the limit.
>
> The owner informed me also he has an AC supply for this set he'll give
> me as well.  That could be a good thing considering six D cells cannot
> last forever.   :)


You would be surprised how long those batteries will last.. I had a set of 
alkalines last for months in mine.

Say no to institutionalized interference.
Just say NO to HD/IBOC! 




Article: 340118 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: charlinessex@peoplepc.com
Subject: Re: Zenith B600 power cord and reel
Date: 19 Aug 2006 07:42:15 -0700
Message-ID: <1155998535.483827.158450@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>
References: <TcDFg.96$CL1.92@newsfe02.lga>


Unrevealed Source wrote:
> Greetings.  I just picked up a very, very nice B600L.  Yes, the leather one
> and it's in great shape in every way.  I bought it as a restoration project,
> but it doesn't need much, mostly just a good cleaning, general checkup and
> alignment.  Can't wait to see how it turns out; I think it will be a real
> beauty.
>
> While I have it apart, I figure I'll replace the power cord.  I'm sure I can
> figure it out, but is there anyone out there that has done this?  Remember
> this is on a retractable reel, which currently works fine and I'd like to
> keep it that way.  I have the schematics and alignment procedures, but not a
> general service manual that details how this assembly comes apart.  Can
> anyone provide some guidance on replacing the power cord, or point me to a
> resource?  Any tips would be appreciated, like "make sure you don't do
> such-and-such" or "be sure to do this before that".
>
> Thanks.
>     Jeff

Try this:

http://www.transoceanic.nostalgia.org/600.htm


Therare  anumberof pdffilesfor theB600

Hope thishelps, good luck


Charlie



Article: 340119 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "The Punisher" <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: alignment tapes-drive motors-replacement pads- 8track cartridge format
Date: 19 Aug 2006 07:47:05 -0700
Message-ID: <1155998825.725746.223930@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <fbi4d2p3ban40cl5bmju23rebtp0fb6i7l@4ax.com>


bicycle wrote:
> Steven wrote:
> > Will you freaking hedgehogs die and stop bugging the group?
>
> Sorry Steve, I post in here evrey now and then under another name and
> was suprised when I came in this morning to catch up on the neon-LED
> thread and saw Charlie Nudo in here trolling again by adding to an old,
> dead thread. Just his habit I guess.
>
> Anyhow, sorry I took his bait and added to the crap. I'll keep to my
> other nick and stay on subject from now on.


BWAHAHAHAHA- bicycle busted as a troll- look at his recent posting
history posted above- nothing but TROLL-TROLL-TROLL

keep posting Bikey, this way you can wean yourself off the prozac
maybe...and not feel so suicidal...



Article: 340120 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "The Punisher" <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: alignment tapes-drive motors-replacement pads- 8track cartridge format
Date: 19 Aug 2006 07:54:49 -0700
Message-ID: <1155999289.319739.267870@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <fbi4d2p3ban40cl5bmju23rebtp0fb6i7l@4ax.com>


bicycle wrote:
> Oh really? Show us the proof.


it was pretty obvious when you disappeared from Google for 33 hours
straight- then bid on the Bronco, cancelled your fake username- then
the first thing you post a reply to, is this thread about it

when someone says "prove it", there is no doubt they did it



Article: 340121 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Steven" <manyrumours@lycos.com>
Subject: Re: alignment tapes-drive motors-replacement pads- 8track cartridge format
Date: 19 Aug 2006 08:00:18 -0700
Message-ID: <1155999618.830473.121910@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>
References: <fbi4d2p3ban40cl5bmju23rebtp0fb6i7l@4ax.com>

Cover yourself when you pleasure yourself, spawn/child
killer/monkeywrench assault victim. Go to the bathroom too. The truth
is there IS no Nudo and this is your idea of a prank. Requisite garbage.



Article: 340122 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: dialcover@webtv.net (Bill Turner)
Subject: Re: Wobbly valves/tubes
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 10:03:09 -0500
Message-ID: <29344-44E7282D-196@storefull-3257.bay.webtv.net>
References: <ah%Eg.62856$hH1.36561@trnddc08>

A DROP OF HOT GLUE WILL FIX IT. 


CHECK MY WEBSITE: www.dialcover.com
Bill Turner, excuse  caps, short answers, stroke.
Business SASE, each order a copy of The Pocket Resource Guide.  






Article: 340123 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: DeserTBoB <desertb@rglobal.net>
Subject: Re: alignment tapes-drive motors-replacement pads- 8track cartridge format
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 08:27:30 -0700
Message-ID: <7abee2t14pa235t0hl2kguuinckb67h9ss@4ax.com>
References: <fbi4d2p3ban40cl5bmju23rebtp0fb6i7l@4ax.com> <1154644573.822485.193520@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1154694240.516078.209140@75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155218322.563206.151410@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com> <1155219641.608058.103460@m79g2000cwm.googlegroups.com> <1155991774.439695.198280@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com> <1155992797.271142.45580@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com> <1155999289.319739.267870@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>

On 19 Aug 2006 07:54:49 -0700, "The Punished"  (an obvoiusly whipped
and beaten Charlie Nudo of Drums, PA) <winchester1886@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>
>bicycle wrote:
>> Oh really? Show us the proof.
>
>
>it was pretty obvious when you disappeared from Google for 33 hours
>straight- then bid on the Bronco, cancelled your fake username- then
>the first thing you post a reply to, is this thread about it
>
>when someone says "prove it", there is no doubt they did it <snip>

There's no proof in the above argument at all...just some paranoid
delusions of a whacko lashing out against his known enemies.  You
deserve that and everything bad that happens to your scam auctions,
Noodles...and more.


Article: 340124 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "terry" <tsanford@nf.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Realistic: Phonograph needle replacement?
Date: 19 Aug 2006 08:49:02 -0700
Message-ID: <1156002542.915102.325860@74g2000cwt.googlegroups.com>

Syl; (Phonograph cartridge rebuilder and such) in Quebec.
Still around this news group?
Long time no speak!
Cos I have friend who would like to replace the phonograph needle of
his 1970s Realistic record player.
Please advise your email and also if I can have him contact you
directly.
Bon Chance.  Terry



Article: 340125 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: Brian McAllister <Sunset@Blandings.com.invalid>
Subject: Re: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer
Message-ID: <kqcee2p2pjsurumoqu1s9s9qh10678m2cn@4ax.com>
References: <DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com> <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com> <uOKdnZQS7s5u6X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@adelphia.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 15:51:52 GMT

On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 01:29:37 GMT, yerke@adelphia.net (Rick Yerke)
wrote:

>Mark: I had the radio all apart and there was no pointer or it`s other parts 
>anywhere.I looked at my Sam`s Dial cord books and saw how complicated the 
>stringing is for this radio,but the way it is set-up now i can still turn the 
>tuning knob and bring in statios, although i don`t know what frequency it is 
>tuned to.Right now i just have a skinny piece of white tape stuck behind the 
>dial cover to simulate a pointer.It looks pretty good for display 
>purposes.Someday i might find the pointer and it`s sub assembly and then i 
>might need the RCA stringing guide.Thanks Rick
>
>>


The complete RCA Service Manual for this model is available for free
download from my website, at:   http://oldtech.net/RCA.html


Article: 340126 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Ken Doyle" <kensoldradiorepair@yahoo.com>
References: <44ednQtVHNHxM3nZnZ2dnUVZ_s6dnZ2d@trueband.net>
Subject: Re: Stromberg dial scale help needed
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 12:13:33 -0400
Message-ID: <gPWdnazJkbkNpXrZnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@giganews.com>

One of these?
http://images.google.com/images?q=Stromberg+Carlson+430M+&hl=en

Ken D.

"Tom Mills" <tsmills@pstel.net> wrote in message
news:44ednQtVHNHxM3nZnZ2dnUVZ_s6dnZ2d@trueband.net...
> I'm looking for a Stromberg Carlson 430M dial scale scan.  I have one that
> the glass is broken and one half missing.  I could post a picture on
> binaries if needed?  Any help will be greatly appreciated.
> -- 
> Tom Mills
>
>




Article: 340127 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: "Gary Tayman" <caradio@verizon.net>
Subject: For Grebe enthusiasts
Message-ID: <ytHFg.135$hP6.26@trnddc04>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 17:01:18 GMT

I just received an interesting e-mail from Hank Grebe.  As I am on the 
mailing list of a Jacksonville radio club, I receive a lot of their blanket 
e-mails.  This one, apparently from a direct descendant of Mr. Grebe of 
radio fame, describes a website, and a new DVD available, that contain a 
great deal of information regarding Grebe Synchrophase radios.  I thought I 
would pass this on as it may be of interest to many of you.  The text of the 
message is shown below.

-- 
Gary E. Tayman/Tayman Electrical
Sound Solutions For Classic Cars
http://www.taymanelectrical.com


Dear Jacksonville Radio Society Members,

I am writing to announce that with Don Patterson's diligence, a fine

DVD of the Grebe Synchrophase Radio manufacturing process is now

available through:

http://www.greberadio.com/

50% of the profits earned will go towards a Radio Club of America

scholarship fund.

Best regards,

Alfred Henry Grebe 3rd




Article: 340128 of rec.antiques.radio+phono
From: yerke@adelphia.net (Rick Yerke)
Subject: Re: RCA Portable 3BX671 Stratoworld Dial Pointer
References: <DrmdnTjcMKkUw3_ZnZ2dnUVZ_v2dnZ2d@adelphia.com> <946dnVCLB6dG7X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_rednZ2d@comcast.com> <uOKdnZQS7s5u6X_ZnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@adelphia.com> <kqcee2p2pjsurumoqu1s9s9qh10678m2cn@4ax.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 17:26:28 GMT
Message-ID: <oZGdnTN6YfUo1HrZnZ2dnUVZ_sadnZ2d@adelphia.com>

Thanks for the info.Rick


In article <kqcee2p2pjsurumoqu1s9s9qh10678m2cn@4ax.com>, Get@outofhere wrote:
>On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 01:29:37 GMT, yerke@adelphia.net (Rick Yerke)
>wrote:
>
>>Mark: I had the radio all apart and there was no pointer or it`s other parts 
>>anywhere.I looked at my Sam`s Dial cord books and saw how complicated the 
>>stringing is for this radio,but the way it is set-up now i can still turn the 
>>tuning knob and bring in statios, although i don`t know what frequency it is 
>>tuned to.Right now i just have a skinny piece of white tape stuck behind the 
>>dial cover to simulate a pointer.It looks pretty good for display 
>>purposes.Someday i might find the pointer and it`s sub assembly and then i 
>>might need the RCA stringing guide.Thanks Rick
>>
>>>
>
>
>The complete RCA Service Manual for this model is available for free
>download from my website, at:   http://oldtech.net/RCA.html