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Re: New book - "The Soul of Soil" (fwd)
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 15 Sep 1995 03:53:09 -0500
From: Ibrahim Ortas <asportas@reading.ac.uk>
To: Multiple recipients of list <soils-l@unl.edu>
Subject: Re: New book - "The Soul of Soil"
On Thu, 14 Sep 1995, David Katz wrote:
> ******************************************************
> NEW BOOK EXPLAINS
> ECOLOGICAL SOIL MANAGEMENT
> ******************************************************
>
> "The Soul of Soil: A Guide to Ecological Soil Management," by Grace
> Gershuny and Joe Smillie, is now available in a new, extensively revised
> third edition. A practical introduction to managing soil for long-term
> productivity, this reference provides useful guidelines for making
> management decisions based on ecological principles, with minimal reliance
> on "off-farm" fertilizers.
>
> Sustainable agriculture aims to protect the soil's ability to
> regenerate nutrients lost when crops are harvested. This regenerative
> capacity depends on the diversity, health and vitality of the organisms
> that live, grow, reproduce, and die in the soil.
>
> The goal of ecological soil management is to enhance conditions for
> the billions of microbes found in every gram of healthy soil. These
> microscopic organisms supply plants with the necessary nutrients at the
> right time, and in the right form and amount.
>
> The authors describe good management of soil organic matter and
> humus to achieve long-lasting soil fertility. These methods include the use
> of green manures, crop rotations, on-farm composting, and mineral
> fertilizers. Detailed information is given to help the farmer with
> everything from collecting soil samples to using practical, on-farm tests
> that measure soil structure, water-holding capacity, and fertility.
>
> This guide also tells farmers how to improve their skills of
> observation, evaluation and management, as they must when reliance on
> purchased inputs is reduced. Specific "how-to" information is given for
> monitoring and analysis of many practices, such as application of composts
> and manures, interpreting soil test results, and crop responses to
> different fertility programs.
>
> In addition to soilbuilding techniques, "The Soul of Soil"
> discusses recordkeeping, cultivation, weed control, maintaining nutrient
> balances, and soil testing. For those who are considering or have already
> implemented organic certification, this book will aid in planning farm
> operations.
>
> The authors are experienced farmers, farm advisors and writers. Joe
> Smillie has worked worldwide as a consultant in ecological agriculture
> since 1976. He is co-author of "The Orchard Almanac." Grace Gershuny edited
> "Organic Farmer: The Digest of Sustainable Agriculture" from 1990 to 1994,
> and recently joined the staff of the USDA's National Organic Program to
> implement its accreditation program for organic certification.
>
> "The Soul of Soil" includes many tables, a glossary, lists of
> resources, and a bibliography. Published by agAccess, the 158 page book
> sells for $16.95, softcover. To order, send a check for the cover price
> plus $4.00 shipping & handling (Californians please add 7.25% sales tax)
> to:
>
> agAccess
> P.O. Box 2008
> Davis, CA 95616.
>
> MasterCard, Visa and purchase orders are accepted. Telephone Monday
> through Friday 9am to 5:30pm PST and Saturdays 10am to 4pm PST (916)
> 756-7177. Email to agaccess@davis.com or fax to (916) 756-7188.
>
> Free review copies are available to editors or journalists wishing
> to review the book for publication. Please send mail (snail or E) to
> agAccess for review information and a copy of the book if you are
> interested.
>
> ******************************************************
> PLEASE DISTRIBUTE
> ******************************************************
>
>
>
Sun 4 Apr 93 9:35
By: Allan Balliett
To: ALL
B-D COMPOSTING TECHNIQUES
(X-posters, please keep my name on this!)
General instructions for Bio-Dynamic compost making reprinted from
PRACTICAL GUIDE to the use of the BIO-DYNAMIC PREPARATIONS by
Ehrenfried Pfeiffer (NY 84) pp 18-26 This book (and many other
B-D related titles) is available from the Bio-Dynamic Farming
Association POB 550 Kimberton, PA 19442. (The book contains
detailed instructions for making composts for special purposes,
also.)
As already stated, whatever is capable of decay or decompostion can
be turned into compost. The only exceptions to be made are human
excrement, coal ashes, and newspapers - the latter because printed
type contains chemical ingredients which are inimical to the bacterial
life of the soil. (transcribers note: check with your local paper -
there is a very good chance they are using non-toxic soy-based inks
now days) The following method should be used to obtain compost:
A trench or ditch should be dug out evenly to a spade's depth. The
bottom should be covered with straw or with athin layer of prepared
manure or compost. Better still, if practicable, would be a thin layer
of lime superimposed upon one of sand. The size of the heap to be
placed upon this should be governed by the same proportions as the
manure heap referred to on page I 2 . But the heap must not be too
long: about 25 feet in length to I2 feet wide is a suitable proportion
But this size is not absolutely requisite: smaller heaps can be
made. The heap should be built up generously to allow for shrinkage.
The different ingredients such as vegetable refuse, leaves, weeds
should be placed upon it in layers. Coarse pieces and small twigs
should first be broken into smaller bits. A layer of vegetable refuse
about IO to I2 inches deep,(Thinner layers 3-inch organic matter and
.5-inch soil give the quickest decomposition (three to four months).
Lawn cuttings should never be more than 2 to 3 inches thick.) then a
sprinkling of unslaked or quick- lime, then a layer of 1 to 3 inches
of earth, then again a layer of vegetable matter, and so on, until a
height of from 4 to 6 feet is reached, when the heap should be covered
with earth.The earth dug out from the trench can be used both for the
layers of earth and for thecovering. Where unpaved or untarred country
roads are at hand the sweepings of these make excellent material for
the earth layers and the covering. Or waste turf or peat may be used
for the covering, but care must be taken that the peat does not get
into the compost and so on to the soil. It should be lifted off before
the compost is touched and kept for re-use. If the soil is sandy the
sides of the heap should be sloped more, so that the sand does not
shift. If strong winds are prevalentan extra covering of straw,
rushes, or branches will be necessary. The top of the heap should be
flattened in the middle to form a trough into which water or thin
liquid manure can be poured to moisten the heap.
The heap may be built up by degrees. This is useful in a small
menage, where house and kitchen refuse form part of the heap. Care
must be taken, however, to cover each addition completely with straw
or reeds. In a large estate one of the workers should be specially
instructed and made responsible for the oversight of compost-making.
It is very important that the compost should not get too dry. The heap
should be built in a shady spot if possible, and if none is available
one should be planted. Results have shown that decomposition takes
place more rapidly in shade than in sun. It is a wise precaution to
plant a hedge round the site or at least to fence it with reeds or
straw matting.
A few more hints may usefully be given. The processes of fermentation
which produce humus cease their activity in frosty weather and work
very slowly in dry substances. So there is little sense in building a
compost- heap in winter, when the material for it is cold or frozen.
And in a hot, sunny August the material is too dry to decompose much,
though watering it as it is built up may help a little. Care should in
any case be taken to keep the heap moist in dry weather.
The writer once saw a compost heap of leaves and foliage which had
stood for a year without decay. What was the reason? The dead foliage
of the previous winter had been heaped together in the height of
summer, when quite dry and with the foliage closely packed in thick
layers. Air and moisture could not penetrate. The outer layers had
decayed, but within lay an unchanged mass. It is important therefore
that dead foliage should be piled up immediately, i.e. in autumn; that
the leaves should be thoroughly loosened and the layers not too thick;
and above all that sufficient moisture should be ensured.
On another occasion there was a perfectly made compost heap, which
yet had not rotted. The earth used for the inner layers was taken from
a vineyard, the soil of which had been treated intensively with copper
preparations. The soil was sterilised and the bacteria necessary to
decomposition were dead. Care is thus required in the choice of earth.
It must be healthy and not soaked with chemical mixtures (copper,
lead, arsenic, nicotine). Even the smallest quantity of these
chemicals is deadly to bacteria. For instance, wild flowers in a vase
will last some days longer if a small piece of copper is put into the
water.
After the compost heaps are built up and covered over, they are
treated in precisely the same way and with the same preparations as
the manure heap, the treatment of which has already been described
(See Details on the Use of B-D Preparations below). Nothing need be
added here.
The heaps are left standing for from two to four months after
treatment and are then turned over. Upon their condition when so
turned depends whether or no further doses of the preparations are
needed. Usually decomposition is so far advanced that the layers have
broken down and intermingled. In the turn-over no further layering is
required, and owing to the diminished size of the heaps two can be
joined into one. If the original heaps contain weeds or leaves
infected by mildew or fungus or other pests, care should be taken to
put these into the centre of the new heaps, so that what was outside
in the old is inside in the new one, and vice versa. Seeds and pests
die in the airless conditions which exist in the inside of the heap
and thus there is no danger that the weeds may propagate themselves
when the compost is spread on the land. Speaking generally, from eight
to twelve months are required before the compost is ready for use.
With proper treatment this period will suflice even for foliage and
other components which are slow to decay. At the end of this time the
compost is ready for application to the soil. All unpleasant smell has
gone, and in its stead is a humus-like aroma reminiscent of woodland
soil. And a lively accretion of earthworms is a sign that the desired
transformation is complete.
The following will be found useful as a means of keeping the heap
sufficiently damp. When building it up, moisten it with liquid manure,
which has been treated with the bio- dynamic preparations and made
into a solution by the addition of rain-water. It is also important to
continue with the moistening after the heap has been built and treated
with the six preparations. To this end a small trough should be made
at the top; or if the top cover is of peat, this should be taken off
at every watering. Two kinds of liquid manure may be used. One is
stable drainage, duly treated before use. The other is a liquid made
from pure cow manure, which has been treated with the six
preparations, 502-507, and stirred in water for a short time before
use. For this a tub may be kept ready.
It should be noted that this moistening process must not be carried
out with excessive quantities, but with smaller quantities at regular
intervals, and the stable drainage and cowmanure liquids should be used
alternatively.
In preparing both the stable drainage and the cow manure for use on
the heaps, one part of manure to twelve to fifteen parts water is
recommendedrain-water if possible. It is best to give the moistening
once a week at a given time. On a farm it might be done every
fortnight or three weeks, but here too the intervals should not vary,
so that the moistening takes place regularly.
DETAILS ON THE USE OF B-D PREPARATIONS (FROM PAGE 14)
The preparations should then be inserted one portion of one preparation
in each hole. A portion is.5 to I gramme. The Preps. 502-507 should be
used in rotation, one portion in each successive hole, the series
beginning again when six holes have been so filled. In a small heap
three pre- parations may be used on one side and three on another.
When the holes have been filled, their openings should be firmly
closed with earth. Prep. 507, which is liquid, should be mixed before
application with lukewarm water: 8 litres (approximately 2 gallons) of
water to sufficient drops of the fluid to colour the water and make it
smell of valerian. If possible, rain-water should be used, but it must
be warmed only, and not first boiled and then allowed to cool. The
mixture should be well stirred for ten to fifteen minutes, and then
poured into the hole or holes awaiting it in the series, and the
remainder should be sprinkled finely over the heap itself. Exclusive
use of any one kind of animal manure, other than cattle manure, should
be avoided as the Preps. 502-507 cannot attain their full effect with
pig and sheep manures, etc. They work most effectually when used with
cattle manure, and for this reason every farm should seek to have
cattle manure available for use with other kinds.
* Origin: Origin: The Twilight Clone (1:109/70.0@fidonet)