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Re: Humus -- rural -> urban -> rural
Responding to Dick R. on the issue of composting. Just curious about
the comment that it is better if composting occurs in the soil. Just
finished an M.Sc. student doing a study on composting and we didn't
come across this idea in the lit. I'd be interested in learning what
it is that is more beneficial about composting in-situ - in the soil -
as against ahead of time. Evidence from the literature?
Conventional organic wisdom hereabouts sees placement of raw manure
directly into the soil as a net negative, because of a) rapid release
of N which destabilizes cycling, b) VFA's which can be caustic, and
c) potential for anaerobic decomposition when high moisture substrate
(whether animal manure or direct cut red clover) is plowed into the
soil. As an example, they recommend cutting and wilting red clover
plowdown before plowing it in, to avoid this problem.
Good points on "waste" management at landfills! Ann
ACLARK@crop.uoguelph.ca
Dr. E. Ann Clark
Associate Professor
Crop Science
University of Guelph
Guelph, ON N1G 2W1
Phone: 519-824-4120 Ext. 2508
FAX: 519 763-8933
Tue 16 Mar 93 9:02
By: Helen Fleischer
Re: Crab Waste
This was tucked away in a corner of the Washington Post Business
section a little while ago. I seem to remember some discussion of various
uses of crab waste, so I thought it might be of interest.
NEW EARTH SERVICES INC. of Cambridge , Md., has found a way to turn leftover
shell parts and other waste from Chesapeak e blue crabs into an organic
fertilizer that eliminates the major problem of seafood-based fertilizers-the
odor . The c ompany's president, Pat Condon, 43 , a former Chicago options
trader, said he grew weary of his high-pressure job and d ecided to try
something new. Condon said his fledgling company has found the right blend of
oxygen and wood chips that takes the odor out of thousands of tons of crab
"chum." Before the process is completed, however, there's enough odor t o knock
you down, Condon said. The effort is one of several in which Maryland
entrepreneurs are turning waste into busi ness opportunities with help from
University of Maryland research funds and technical advice. In another case,
Kanan As sociates Inc. of Columbia transforms rubber from old tires into a
component for noise barriers next to highways and air ports. Pedro Albrecht ,
professor of civil engineering at College Park, helped with the project .
* Origin: Three Mausketeers (1:109/172)
Article 22831 of rec.gardens:
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Subject: [ DAMPING OFF aka DAMP OF
From: jim.mcnelly@gcbb.granite.mn.org (Jim Mcnelly)
Path: samba.oit.unc.edu!concert!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!umn.edu!uum1!gcbbgw!gcbb!jim.mcnelly
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <36.1266.2552.0N41BD09@gcbb.granite.mn.org>
References: <081303Z19091993@anon.penet.fi>
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 93 19:52:00 +0600
Organization: Granite City BBS 612-654-8372 hst 656-0678 v.32bis
Lines: 33
An32959@Anon.Penet.Fi to All - Sunday, September 19th:
Discussing: [ DAMPING OFF aka DAMP OF
A>Hello!
A> Can anyone offer any advice on the prevention of DAMPING OFF?
> (other than the scrubbing of pans and pots in soapy water, then
> soaking them in bleach, and cooking soil for quite a long time)
> Is Captan effective, if so what method should be used with it.
> Also any other advice and criticism is very welcome!
Dr. Harry Hoitink in Plant Pathology at The Ohio State University branch
of OARDC in Wooster, has documented that the best *prevention* of
damping off, fusarium in particular, is the use in the soil mixture of
fully cured compost.
His research which was first published in 1973 is so well documented
that fusarium suppression is not a means of determining compost
stability. The absence of humus, such as soilless mixtures, or the
presence of immature compost, is the proper environment for fusarium
development.
To prevent fusarium, add up to 30% fully cured compost to the soil
mixture. Guaranteed, no fusarium or damping off.
Jim Mr Compost~~~ McNelly
Granite Cities BBS 612-654-8372-HST 654-0678 v.32bis
e-mail jim.mcnelly@granite.mn.org
---
* September 19th - Never mind the star... get those camels off my lawn!
. .. compost-making.faq compost-using.faq Article 13815 of rec.gardens:
From: jimm@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM (Jim MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1993 20:33:19 GMT
Subject: Re: Worm Compost bin pH adjustment
Message-ID: <9880049@hpfcso.FC.HP.COM>
Organization: Hewlett-Packard, Fort Collins, CO, USA
Path: samba!concert!gatech!swrinde!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!usc!sdd.hp.com!hpscit.sc.hp.com!hplextra!hpfcso!jimm
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
References: <44666@sdcc12.ucsd.edu>
Lines: 129
Robert,
Welcome to Ft. Fun. I received this from a co-worker here. I never
tried it but it sure looks good.
Jim
------------------------------ clip here ------------------------------
>2) Does anyone have a good and SIMPLE strategy for recycling clippings.
> Any information, or pointers to resource material would be
> appreciated.
Try *fast* composting (although you may not find it too easy). Included
below are some notes I've compiled from various sources:
* _Easy Composting_, Vic Sussman, Rodale Press.
* _How to Grow More Vegetables_, John Jeavons, Ten-Speed Press.
* _The Rodale Guide to Composting_, Rodale Press.
SUMMARY OF FAST COMPOSTING METHOD
1. Start with a correctly balanced C:N ratio (typical is 4 parts
plant matter:1 part manure). (More on C:N ratio below.)
2. Greater variety of ingredients causes better composting.
3. Build heap all at one time and keep protected from rain.
4. Use a bin or enclosure for best results.
5. Minimum pile size is 3 feet square by 4 feet high.
6. Materials may be layered (Indore method) or mixed.
7. "Turn" the pile no less than every 2 or 3 days; not more
than once a day.
8. Break composted materials into smallest possible parts.
THE CARBON TO NITROGEN RATIO
* The target Carbon to Nitrogen ratio (C:N) ranges between 25:1 to 30:1.
* The correct C:N ratio is important to compost quickly and at high
temperatures (which kill weed seeds). Temperatures above 160F are
not uncommon.
* Ratios lower than 25:1 can cause excessive ammonia to be produced.
* Ratios higher than the 30:1 cause lower pasteurizing temperatures,
resulting in slower composting and less weed seeds killed.
Table 1: C:N ratios of various organic substances
----------------------------------------------------------------
Material C:N Material C:N
----------------------------------------------------------------
Alfalfa 13:1 Mature Sweet Clover 23:1
Alfalfa Hay 12:1 Oat Straw 80:1
Cornstalks 60:1 Paper 170:1
Food Wastes 15:1 Rotted Horse Manure 20:1
Fruit Wastes 35:1 Sawdust 500:1
Grass Clippings 19:1 Sewage Sludge: Activated 6:1
Green Sweet Clover 16:1 Sewage Sludge: Digested 16:1
Humus 10:1 Straw 80:1
Leaves 80:1-40:1 Sugar Cane Residues 50:1
Legume-Grass Hay 25:1 Wood 700:1
----------------------------------------------------------------
* When calculating the C:N ratio of your pile, base it on the
weight of materials. For example, if you have 100lbs of green
grass clippings and 200lbs of leaves, your C:N ratio would be
calculated as:
100 * 19 + 200 * 60
------------------- = 46 => you need more grass clippings
300 (total lbs)
TURNING SCHEDULE
A reasonable turning schedule: 2nd, 4th, 7th, and 10th days.
Temperatures should be:
110-120F by 2nd or 3rd day
130-160F by 4th or 5th day
Pile is finished when temperature does not rise above 110F, usually
around the 10th day if you used a vigorous turning schedule.
(Usually it takes my pile two to three weeks to compost completely.
I regularly achieve temperatures above 150 degrees F.)
WHEN AND HOW TO APPLY COMPOST
* Use only finished compost around growing plants; unfinished compost
is best used in parts of the garden that have already been harvested.
* Add rough or still-fibrous compost about 1 month before planting.
* Use compost as a mulch for heat-loving plants (such as tomatoes) only
after the soil has warmed up in the spring or early summer.
* Plants that like "cool feet" (e.g., lettuce, cabbage, brocolli) can
take compost as a mulch earlier.
* In general, the best times to apply compost are: fall, winter, and
early spring.
* If soil is poor, apply organic material early in fall, working into
the top 12 to 18 inches; leave soil rough.
* Spread compost just before tilling in spring.
* Summer is a good time because soil microbes are quite active.
This is also a good time to add rock dust, bone meal, and
greensand.
* It's good to apply compost before a rain storm.
* Apply 1/2- to 3-inch layer over growing areas once or twice during the
growing season. Unless used as a mulch, work into the top 1 to 4
inches of soil, but be careful not to damage roots.