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Re: Free Range/Pastured Poultry/Poultry Manure (fwd)
To the Poultry News Network and the Sustainable Agriculture Network:
I am currently trying to finish up my master's degree here at
the University of Vermont. I am looking for literature for my research
concerning poultry on
pasture (which thus far has been hard to come by--I made postings here
and to a few other discussion groups last winter with very little
reply-the National Ag Library only had limited info as well). Below is a
synopsis of my research. If you have any information that might be
vaguely usefulfor my lit review, please let me know. Also, if you
could suggest any other discussion groups that I might try, that would
also be greatly apprectiated.
Thank You
Michael Ghia mghia@moose.uvm.edu
c/o Dr. Sid Bosworth
Plant and Soils's Department
Hills Building
UVM
Burlington, Vermont 05405
In 1993, I raised 1125 meat chickens (broilers). 900 chickens
were raised "on range" in floorless moveable pens, sometimes refered to
as "chicken tractors". They are moved on a regular basis and are usually
integrated within a "rotational-" or "rational- grazing" skeme. For
instance, (farmer)Joel Salatin in Virginia grazes his beef cattle ahead of
his
chicken pens ("co-grazing"). However, I did not have other livestock
(though would be interested in relevant literature). The range birds also
had access to grain. The other 225 chickens were raised in a
barn and only had access to grain for feed. In addition, there were two
other treatments in 1993: sod plots which were mowed everytime the
chicken pasture plots were grazed or mowed; silage corn raised without
fertilizer.
Both plots played a role in the 1994 phase, but the sod was also relevant
in 1993.
Data taken in 1993:
-chicken growth rates and grain consumption comparing outdoor and
indoor birds
-forage consumption estimates of range birds
-dress slaughter weights of all birds
-pasture and sod growth rate comparisons
-fertility comparison over time comparing sod and pasture plots,
focusing on nitrate and ammonia, but all other nutrients were analyzed
(lab-wise- I do not know if I will ever get to do
the statistic on the rest of them)
-nutrient movement in the soil profile (nitrate leaching)
-I might trying to compare the economics between the outdoor and
the indoor raised birds, and also animal health (cull/loss rates) since
neither group had antibiotics in their feed. (antibiotics in the feed is
the standard practice).
In 1994, all three treatments (corn, sod, pasture) were plowed
down and sweet corn was planted. There were subplots applied to the
original treatments --a plus nitrogen (chemical fertilizer), and 0
nitrogen treatment. Corn was harvested as marketable sweet corn.
Data taken in 1994:
-soil nitrate and ammonia in the soil of each treatment and
subtreatment before, during and after the growing season.
-nitrogen movement through the soil profile -leaching
-compared corn yield and corn biomass between the treatments and
subtreatments.
-Compared nitrogen uptake between the three treatments and the two
subtreatments as "Total Keldal (sp?) Nitrogen(TKN)".
That is it in a nutshell. Thanks again for your help.
Mike
Article 5132 of misc.rural:
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From: dave@tromaville.manassas.ibm.com ()
Subject: Free Ranging Fowl
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1993 13:27:59 GMT
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Hi,
I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese. I've read a couple of books
("Raising Poultry the Modern Way" and "The Home Duck Flock") but so far they
have just given passing mention to free ranging. I've never raised any fowl
before and I feel that I need more detailed information. I think I would like
to free range to save on feed costs but I'm really not sure what the drawbacks
are (eggs harder to find maybe??). I saw some plans in Eliot Coleman's
"New Organic Grower" for a movable chicken house (on skids) that he uses to
free range chickens on pasture land and I've read some articles in magazines
about using birds as weeders which sounds interesting. If you know of a good
book or have some experience/advice to share I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
dave.
--
David Irby irby@vnet.ibm.com
Dammit Jim! - All ideas and opinions expressed herein are my own.
Article 5152 of misc.rural:
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From: andy@elviss.eng.sun.com (Andrew Davidson)
Newsgroups: misc.rural
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
Date: 27 Apr 93 09:54:38
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In-reply-to: ron@mlfarm.com's message of Mon, 26 Apr 1993 18:59:37 GMT
In article <1993Apr26.185937.6971@mlfarm.com> ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence) writes:
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From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
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Organization: Maple Lawn Farm, Stonington, CT
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Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1993 18:59:37 GMT
dave@tromaville.manassas.ibm.com () writes:
I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese.... I'm really not sure
what the drawbacks are (eggs harder to find maybe??).
We free-range our few chickens. The drawbacks are that they sometimes
hide their eggs until we discover the new hiding place, and they
sometimes make a beeline for new plantings in the gardens. One year
newly planted zinnias disappeared overnight. For the next week, the
chickens laid purple eggs.
For much of the year we don't have to feed the chickens, the only
clean-up is under their roost, they seem to do a good job on weeds,
grubs, and other nasties, and the eggs are delicious and attractive,
with deep yellow yolks that are nothing like storebought eggs.
--
Ronald Florence
ron@mlfarm.com
What about flies? I have heard that free range chickens are great at
reducing flies around that barn yard. I have also heard that they
create more flies than they eat?
Andy
Article 5162 of misc.rural:
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From: sticha@blazer9.Berkeley.EDU (David A. Sticha)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
Message-ID: <1993Apr28.224927.6978@rtsg.mot.com>
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1993 22:49:27 GMT
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news@hawnews.watson.ibm.com writes:
> I'm looking for some information that goes into detail about
>free-ranging chickens, ducks and/or geese. I've read a couple of books
>("Raising Poultry the Modern Way" and "The Home Duck Flock") but so far they
>have just given passing mention to free ranging. I've never raised any fowl
>before and I feel that I need more detailed information. I think I would like
>to free range to save on feed costs but I'm really not sure what the drawbacks
>are (eggs harder to find maybe??). I saw some plans in Eliot Coleman's
>"New Organic Grower" for a movable chicken house (on skids) that he uses to
>free range chickens on pasture land and I've read some articles in magazines
>about using birds as weeders which sounds interesting. If you know of a good
>book or have some experience/advice to share I would appreciate it.
I've been free ranging my chickens for four summers now. The benefits include
reduced feed, healthier birds and better tasting eggs. The downside is reduced
egg laying (can't find them all and they use a lot of energy scratching for a
living) and losses due to raccoons, possums, feral cats, and my retriever.
Generally, if I let them out (in an enclosed area if the dog is out, free if she's not) first thing in the morning and remember to lock them up 1/2 hour
before sunset, I have no problems. While they are out, I keep the coop door shut.
My garden is within the 20X20 confines of the chicken yard. I fall sow a cover
crop and let the chickens start on that early in the spring. It also trains
them to stay close to the roost. Always count heads before closing the door for
the night and shoo any inside that have an inclination to roost anywhere else.
After two weeks, my flock of a dozen or so has usually stripped the fall cover
crop to the bare earth and has redeposited it in the form of droppings. I then
turn the garden area over by hand (the soil is butter soft) and plant my early
crops. The chickens then switch to foraging outside the yard. Again, count heads
at night and find any that are trying to go wild. The retriever is good at this.
After the early stuff is cashed in I let the chickens back in for a week or so
and they cleanup the leftovers. I then plant warm weather stuff and the cycle
continues.
Throughout the summer I keep their feeder filled with laying mash
but it lasts a long time because they don't bother with it except for rainy days.
I also feed them table scraps through out the year, except for meat. Also fruit
cores, rinds, stale (not moldy) bread, etc. In short, any non animal based
organic matter. They do have a tendency to gobble the landscaping and occasionally
mess the porch or patio with their droppings. But the benefits I mentioned above
far outweigh the bad things. Finally, I just enjoy watching them. I've heard
people refer to this form of entertainment as "chicken tv".
Dave Sticha
Article 5169 of misc.rural:
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From: ron@mlfarm.com (Ronald Florence)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
In-Reply-To: sticha@blazer9.Berkeley.EDU's message of Wed, 28 Apr 1993 22:49:27 GMT
Message-ID: <1993Apr29.185539.10650@mlfarm.com>
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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1993 18:55:39 GMT
David A. Sticha writes:
I fall sow a cover crop and let the chickens start on that early in
the spring. ... After two weeks, my flock of a dozen or so has
usually stripped the fall cover crop to the bare earth and has
redeposited it in the form of droppings.
Another option is a `Dutch Roto-Tiller.' Build a one-meter on a side
cubic frame and cover every side but one with chicken wire. Put a
couple of chickens inside with the open side down on the garden site.
When the chickens have tilled, weeded, and fertilized that square
meter, move the cube to an untilled area. In a few days, the whole
garden is done.
We've never tried it. The chickens like our gardens too much as is.
--
Ronald Florence
ron@mlfarm.com
Article 5191 of misc.rural:
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From: jay@east-wind.win.net (Jay Miller)
Subject: Re: Free Ranging Fowl
In-Reply-To: andy@elviss.eng.sun.com's message of 27 Apr 93 09:54:38
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Sender: jay@east-wind.win.net (Jay Miller)
Organization: East Wind Community, Tecumseh, Missouri, USA
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<ANDY.93Apr27095438@elviss.eng.sun.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1993 19:22:47 GMT
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Regarding free-ranging chickens (I don't know anything about ducks
or geese, I would like to know more about ducks):
I tend the chickens here at East Wind. We have something I've heard
referred to as an "eggmobile". It's great. It's a house on wheels,
ours is about 12' x 18' with 32 nest boxes around the sides, and roosts
inside. The chickens get into the nest boxes from the inside and they
open up outside to collect the eggs. Every morning we go out and open
the coop. The chickens come out and scratch around and eat bugs and
worms and the like. We still give them feed, which we put inside the
coop, so they keep going inside. At night, they like having a place to
roost, so they go inside. Someone goes out at dusk and closes up the
house. At first you have some of them wanting to roost underneath the
coop, so you have to climb underneath and get them out. Eventually they
learn and all go inside. The only time this is trouble is when the coop
is near trees, which they like roosting in almost as well.
We find this to be a great system. We figured that we get 2/3 the eggs
but provide 1/2 the feed, so we come out ahead. I'm told that the eggs
have been much healthier since we started doing this, but I wasn't around
before so I don't know.
If you move the coop frequently enough (every 2 weeks or more often) then
the pasture doesn't get too messed up in one spot, and actually thrives
from all the chicken litter being spread on it. If you have them in a
pasture with cows, they scratch up the cow patties to get maggots, cutting
down on flies and spreading the manure.
--
--------------------------------------------
Jay Miller East Wind Community
jay@east-wind.win.net Tecumseh, MO 65760
--------------------------------------------
--
--------------------------------------------
Jay Miller East Wind Community
jay@east-wind.win.net Tecumseh, MO 65760
Article 8369 of misc.rural:
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From: ppowell@lonestar.utsa.edu (P. K. Powell )
Subject: Small-scale dairy goat farm
Message-ID: <1994Apr2.195215.23105@ringer.cs.utsa.edu>
Keywords: dairy goat, goat milk, milking
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I kept dairy goats for years while growing children, but am
not doing either anymore. The children are grown and I miss
the goats (but not the 2Xdaily milking 365 days a year).
Mary Matejka asked about dairy goats:
1. If you plan to mil, find a dairy goat herd and talk to
the owner/breeder. Buy your stock there. The breeder
will probably gladly answer your questions about
management. Learn about goat udders and teats. Buy the
best stock you can. Consider buying at least one doe
already pregnany by the breeder's buck that has the
breeding you will want in your flock. A knowledgeable
breeder will guide you. Keeping your own buck is a
separate economic venture. It is sometimes necessary,
because new goats must always be quarantined in separate
pens for a while, thus you can't very easily just
*borrow* buck service during breeding season.
2. Goats are browsers not grazers. Goat fencing is
expensive, therefore most dairy goatkeepers limit the
pens, therefore herd size. During Winter and early
Spring browse is diminished in most areas, thus feed is
supplemented.
3. Neighbors eat only 4-6 mo. old kids? Castrated males
(wethers) are meatier, and tender enough, if exercise (and
NO medicated feed) is limited for a period, say 10 days or
more, prior to butchering. If your herd is not under pressure
from, say dogs, they're probably tender enough, anyway. A
reason to eat young kids may be beed/browse/fence economics.
4. Mature bucks in *rut*: Just like whitetail deer, does
control rut. They come into estrus with the advance of
cool Autumn weather, which cues the buck. Estrus
continues through Spring unless the doe is successfully
bred. Any doe which does not breed during this time
period should probably be culled. If you've spent mucho
$ on a registered doe, check with your vet, AND the
breeder from whom she was purchased.
Bucks have a number of musk//scent glands, including those
up by their horns. They like to spread this stuff all
over their bodies, and *anything* else they can. Dairy
goat bucks are penned spearately in an enclosure that
does not come in contact with a doe to be milked, because
that stinkystuff penetrates. Some does have some musk
glands also; if she is strong-smelling, she is not a
candidate for milking for human consumption, and her
offspring will carry genes for those glands.
5. Milking only once daily: A good doe milks about 1 gallon
daily, and she should be fed sweet feed mix during milking.
The example (good management) of penning her kid(s)
separately in the evening, and let them stay with the doe
after milking works well to keep your production and
bottle-feeding labor down. I milked two does, because I
needed more milk. Each doe is milked about 9 months of the
year, then rested 3 months during later gestation. By
staggering doe breeding to one bred early-season, one
late-season, I kept a minimum of 1 gallon daily, year-round.
You will probably not like store-bought cow milk for 3 months
after drinking rich, fresh goatmilk. If you only bought 1 doe
to try this, and agreed with MHO, you could then buy a second
doe the second year.
I had a centrifugal cream separator, a goat's butterfat doesn't
separate out like cow's. During the high-production, late Spring
through Summer months, we had white butter, various hard and soft
cheeses, cream cheese, cultured sour cream, and yoghurt. Separators
are hard to find. New ones cost big$ and shipping time is very
long, last I knew.
Access your local library system for books about dairy goats. Your
county/state extension agent and veterinarian may be helpful.
However, often information has to be extrapolated from (1) dairy
science and (2) sheephusbandry references. Again, the breeder from
whom you purchase stock is probably the best person to help you with
goatkeeping for your area. I like to think *goat people* are the
finest in the world, although you CAN find jerks everywhere.
If I can help answer any other questions, just ask, here or EMail to
Kaye, either ppowell@lonestar.utsa.edu or kaye.powell@jtbbs.com.