Teaching Fellows (TeaFs) in Russia

A Travel Journal


8-29-2000

Okay, so let me just bust in here for a second and say a few things before
you read this.  This is largely a reaction to a response I received from
an Australian gentleman this afternoon, who'd just read my journal.

I say some very unkind things about Russia in this journal, and I will
happily admit that.

I say some very immature things, and make some pretty harsh judgements of
people, places and circumstances, and I will happily admit that.

I would like to remind you that I was also twenty years of age.  I had
never before left the United States.  I had been sheltered my entire life,
brought up in a fortunate middle-class environment with parents who
shielded me from a lot of the very real conditions of the world.  I had
not faced anything resembling personal tragedy or pain at the time.  I had
never faced genuine hardship or, in fact, anything less than that same
middle-class environment.  I was a babe in the woods, and nothing more,
and I will happily admit that.

Since my trip to Russia, I've learned a few things.  Among them are:

* Russia has no monopoly on dirty airports; they're everywhere.
* Russia is not the only place in the world where not everyone grows up in
  a middle-class neighborhood; the poor and suffering are everywhere, I
  simply lived someplace where they had been hidden from sight.
* A person who is economically deprived is neither a "bad" person, nor
  someone to fear.  I learned that the first time I had to live for 2
  weeks on $4US, right here, in my own town, in my own country, for the
  simple reason that I was poor in a $12,000US/year sort of way.
* I was and still am a babe in the woods, a snob, living in a dreamworld,
  however you want to describe it, and I will happily admit that.  

When you read this, understand something important:  you are not reading
the words of one who was aware of the suffering of the world but chose to
be judgemental and unforgiving and frightened anyway.  You are reading the
words of one who'd never had his eyes opened before, and who cares more
now that he's been there himself on more than one occasion.

That said, I refuse to edit my journal entries to be more...more whatever
people want them to be.  This is, word for word, what I wrote in my
journal while being bussed and trained and driven around Moscow and St.
Petersburg.  To change these words would be, in a way, to deny the pain
and embarrassment and, yes, shameful shamelessness that surrounded my
realizing just how little of the world I had seen and understood.  I think
that would be tremendously unfair to you, and it would be tremendously
egotistical of me to deny that I ever went through phases in which I
didn't understand the world around me.  

I'm an American, and I have come to learn that yes, we are hated
everywhere because of the McDonald's restaurants that have popped up in
other people's back yards and the stereotype of our obnoxious
personalities, both as a perceived-imperialist nation on the world stage
and as an ever-present and -annoying class of tourists who stand around
wondering how much things cost in "real money."  And I've met Germans who
were, frankly, assholes, Australians who apparently travelled to other
countries just to drink their beer and pinch the asses of their women, and
Scots who thought the American Southeast would be a good place to drum up
support for a fully independent government being re-seated in Edinburgh
by picking fist-fights.  I received different treatment from workers in
the same Russian stores just because one thought I was an American and the
other thought I was British.  

In other words:  we're all assholes.  (My favorite thing about this rant
is that so many people who read it will use it to say, 'But that's exactly
what we're talking about!'  Predictable much?)

And if you think my words are [mean, selfish, American, un-Christian,
insert favorite perjorative here], then remind yourself that I have said,
and say again, that I long to go back to Russia.  Nothing would make me
happier than to spend tonight walking through Red Square, smoking a
terrible-tasting Russian cigarette with a taste of obscenely bad vodka on
my breath, fearing for my wallet and, yes, loving every single second of
it.

So there.

--MGW


December 28, 1994

December 28, 20 Minutes Later

December 29

December 31

January 1, 1995

January 3

January 3, Later That Night

January 7

A Few Afterthoughts

A Letter From a Reader


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Michael G. Williams