From MAILER-DAEMON Sun Jan 14 07:40:03 2001 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by luna.oit.unc.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id HAA04996 for ; Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:40:02 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id HAA00126 for ; Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:42:58 -0500 (EST) Message-Id: <200101141242.HAA00126@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:42:58 -0500 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0007A" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Content-Length: 85097 Lines: 1913 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 15:52:43 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ron Law Subject: Re: Producing Propolis MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What if you split two hives and mixed them 50/50 to get two 'identical' (apart from the queen) hives? If the same hive keeps producing more propolis it would tend to negate the genes of the workers. You could then swap the queens over. If no change that negates the queen. You could then swap the boxes over (location) keeping the bees in the same location. If the propolis production stays with the box that would suggest an environmental factor. If it stayed put, then I guess we'd be back to thinking about one of the mysteries of beekeeping. RL CSlade777@AOL.COM wrote: > There seems to be a genetic component in the propensity to collect propolis. > I have one hive in an apiary of 5 that is collecting far more than all the > rest put together with no apparent reason. > > Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 00:58:32 -0500 Reply-To: Fr-Athanasios Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Fr-Athanasios Subject: Plastic Foundation Dear BEE-L Members, Can someone give me a little advice on plastic foundations. Do the work? Do the bees built on them normally, or only if they have no choice? Otherwise is it just as preferable as beeswax or no? The reason I am asking is because this is the only foundations that I have used and it seems like is taking very long time for the bees to start on them, and even at that it seems they are working very slow. Thank you for your responses, + Fr. Athanasios ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 07:48:05 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: reno Subject: Pensacola Bahia Grass MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yesterday while as I was leaving my bee yard I noticed a bee buzzing around the seed pods on a stalk of Pensacola Bahia grass. She landed and walked up and down on the slender pod, her pollen sacks were bulging. I took another pod close by and shook it on my hand and it puffed a cloud of very fine pollen. I have read nothing about this source and was amazed to find bees on the grass stalks. Can anyone lend any information on this grass as a source of pollen. I was going to mow this pasture, but I will wait a couple of weeks until it has seeded out...thanks, Will Lewis in N. Florida.. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 23:35:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Juandefuca Subject: Re: Producing Propolis Hi I am not sure what you are doing. If I understand correctly , you tasted honey . Did you extracted it by removing the cappings ? Or did you just extracted it from open cells ? You can harvest honey if all cells have cappings and are CLOSED . The evaporating process is already DONE. When cells are still open , one does not harvest unless you have the means to check on the water percentage.As far as the rain goes , bees don't like to get soaken and water might contaminate the stores. Wait for a pause in the rain to check. catfish ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 23:42:53 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Juandefuca Subject: Re: producing propolis Hi Robert Yes , some bees have this propensity to plaster everything and it's uncle. with propolis . Usually where is not required. The propolis trap is however the preferred method since it is easily harvested by freezing AND purity is maintained. THAT seems to be an important criteria in quality control. There is merit to collecting the stuff since it pays well Best wishes Catfish ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:03:30 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "john f. mesinger" Subject: Exceptions to rules Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" For thirty years of reading and listening to my mentors, I accepted as universal truths, what I have found exceptions to in the past two years. 1] Laying queens cannot fly; so one could take a brood box a hundred feet away from the hive, blow out the bees and only the workers and drones can return. a] Last year, to change from Italians to Carniolans, I put the largest, most productive Italian queen in a NUC with a frame of brood and took it to a site several acres away until I could give it to a friend. When he came, I picked up the queen in my hand [instead of holding her by legs on one side] and handed her to him. She escaped and, when last seen, she was flying high in a straight line back toward her hive. b] My newly mated supercedure anorexic Italian queen, who had just layed two capped frames of brood, twice escaped through the plastic queen catcher, flew around the hive and back into the front entrance. [on my third try I palmed the queen in the catcher and made a transfer inside my car to a queen cage]. 2] Queen excluders [called honey excluders by some] prevent the queen from laying eggs in a super. See 1b for the exception to that. My queen catcher has more narrow spaces than the queen excluders. 3] In a queenless colony, worker bees may lay eggs, often haphazardly, producing drones. a] Having made up a NUC, I introduced a Carniolan queen, who fled. After some drone visits and then none for two weeks, there were and still are no drone cells or drones. Two frames of brood, about 50% in the center, are capped, with some larvae showing here and there. Bees developed two swarm cells and two emergency cells. There were larvae in three of four cells. The next week, only one supercedure cell was visible and it was capped. I accidentally flattened it when putting the frames away. The emergency cells were empty. The next time I looked, they had larvae in them. A week later they were capped. Unless there is/was a queen in there that is identical to a small worker, there is not and never has been a queen in the box - and the Carniolan queen was gone 6 weeks ago. The behavior seems strange to me and counter to what I had always believed to be true. John F. Mesinger jfm6f@unix.mail.virginia.edu ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:41:37 -0600 Reply-To: darn@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: darn@FREENET.EDMONTON.AB.CA Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation Comments: To: Fr-Athanasios In-Reply-To: <200007021249.IAA20837@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hi Fr. Athanasios: I have used regular wax foundation over the last 20 years and have started using permadent in the last 3 or 4 years. I find that the regular wax foundation is drawn easier and faster than the permadent. Most likely this is because the bees can use the excess wax in the sheet to draw out the cells. The permadent has only a thin layer of wax and the bees must create new wax to draw out he foundation. I put a box of 10 frames directly over the brood chamber of a strong hive at the start of a honey flow (no excluder). It helps to put one drawn comb in the box to get them going. Since they draw the centre combs first, I move the two centre combs out to the outside as soon as they are drawn, repeating until all are drawn. There is a real variation in the willingness of hives to draw comb. If they don't work in them, or if they draw comb crosswise, I take the box away and give it to another hive. This crosswise comb is often drone comb and its presence may show that the hive does not have as many drones as it would like. Best regards, Donald Aitken Edmonton Alberta Canada ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:52:27 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Skriba Subject: Re: Plastic foundation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I experimented this year with 5 new package swarms using plastic foundation in 3 and crimp-wired foundation in 2. I installed 3 packages of Buckfast bees on plastic foundation and fed as normal. They did very well and kept up with my Italians on crimped wire. Surprising they passed them by on the drawing out rate, So taking this in mind, the 2nd brood chamber on the Italians was with plastic and I also placed crimped wire on the Buckfasts. The Italian swarms tended to build more burr comb and drone comb on the plastic frame and were much slower drawing this out as opposed to the crimp wire. So slow in fact, that after I saw what was occurring, I switched back with the crimped on the Italians and plastic foundation and frames on the Buckfast. As of this week they are all equal in drawing out the brood chambers and now each have 2 medium depth supers placed on them. It seemed strange that the Buckfast would draw out foundation more readily on the plastic frames than the Italians. Has anyone else had this experience and has anyone else used the plastic cell or frames in the medium depth supers? Bill ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:56:56 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: workerbee@HONEYROAD.COM Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage: http://www.honeyroad.com Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation Comments: To: Fr-Athanasios MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are you using wax coated or plain uncoated plastic foundation? I have had the best results with wax coated plastic foundation in wooden frames. The bees draw it out just as fast as regular wax foundation. I tired uncoated one piece frames, and I found it took the bees longer to draw it out than normal. But I know of other beekeepers who have found no diference between coated and uncoated. Allen Banks Honey Road Apiaires http://www.honeyroad.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:15:34 -0400 Reply-To: LibBEE@email.msn.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Plastic foundation In-Reply-To: <200007030132.VAA29171@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hello Everyone, I have been using Pierco frames for five years now with excellent results. When I find the bees not drawing the wax coated frames or foundation, I apply melted beeswax to the top area of the frame(You don't have to cover the whole frame) with a foam brush, this starts them drawing very well. This year I've used two cases of deep black Pierco and had to apply wax on more of them than in years past, I don't know if warehouse storage conditions or stinginess with wax was the problem or not, but I sure enjoyed the time saved from not assembling over 100 frames. Regards, Garry Libby Attleboro, Massachusetts, USA 41.56 N 71.17 W ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:34:55 -0400 Reply-To: LibBEE@email.msn.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Drone Congregation Areas MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Everyone, I'm back from NY where I attended the queen rearing course put on by Cornell's Master Beekeeper Program. The course was great! Today They showed us a drone congregation area, it was in a clearing approximately 200 feet up a hill from the twenty or so hives kept behind Betterbee in Greenwich for the course. We first went up the hill at 1:15 PM with a queen pheromone lure attached to a helium filled weather balloon with no luck, We went back at 3:00PM and going up the hill there was no sign of drones but as soon as We reached the clearing I was amazed, the lure was rushed by dozens of drones and the first to grab onto the lure got so heavy with competitors that they all would fall halfway from the air. Ten minutes into this display, We saw a live queen on a mating flight going up the hill being chased by drones then minutes later come back Our way with the "comet" after her. Before seeing this display I was just a little skeptical but now there is no doubt in My mind about the existence of DCA's. That was the high point of a great course, I highly recommend it to All. Regards, Garry Libby Attleboro, Massachusetts, USA 41.56 N 71.17 W LibBEE@email.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:28:29 -0500 Reply-To: Fr-Athanasios Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Fr-Athanasios Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation, Many Thanks I want to thank everyone for your responses public and private on my question about "Plastic foundations" Ellen Anglin wrote: >feed them sugar syrup with some kool aid added >for color and fragrance. (And to tell it apart from honey.) >My bees seem to like cherry. I took Ellen's and Herb/Norma Bee Holly-B Apiary advice, but I did it a little different. I made a mixture of two cups sugar + 3 cups water and 1 envelope of raspberry kool aid (that is what we had in the kitchen). I used a Windex spray bottle took the "Plastic Foundation" frames out and started spraying them one at a time on both sides. As soon as I replaced the first frame back in its original position, the most amazing thing happened; the frame got covered very quickly and they started fanning and making that beautiful vibrating sound, I guess they were announcing the good news to the rest of the hive. That made us very happy as it continued with all my three hives. Again many thanks to all, + Fr. Athanasios ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 07:23:24 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lear, Eddie(ENL)" Subject: Re: Producing Propolis MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" -Chris Slade wrote: There seems to be a genetic component in the propensity to collect propolis. I have one hive in an apiary of 5 that is collecting far more than all the rest put together with no apparent reason. There certainly seems to be a correlation between races in collecting propolis. A.m. scutalata is one such race that will collect plenty. Any opening in a hive will be either reduced in size or totally sealed off with propolis. Open bottom boards with a fine mesh such as used in Europe are very quickly closed up. It has also been noticed that before rain the bees are more intent in collecting propolis than other forage. By the amount of activity in bringing in propolis we can more or less gauge whether the rain is going to last for more than our average half hour thunderstorm. Eddy Lear South Africa ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 10:17:28 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Mitchell Subject: Frame & foundation mis-fit MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit In a message dated 7/2/00 8:33:38 PM, WSkriba@AOL.COM writes: << ...has anyone else used the plastic cell or frames in the medium depth supers? >> I have a different problem with plastic foundation in medium wood frames. I bought my frames from one manufacturer, and my foundation from another. There seems to be a problem with the fit, but it's not a consistent problem. Sometimes the frames seem too shallow for the plastic foundation and it forces the bottom bar to bow, or the foundation to bow, or it forces the nails out, or even splits the bottom bar. It seems as though either the frame is a little too shallow, or the foundation is a little too tall. But sometimes the fit is just right and the foundation seats loosely but snugly in the frame. I haven't had a chance to stop yet and take measurements to find out which equipment (foundation or frames) is causing this (mostly because I'm trying to work quickly and stay ahead of the bees). Of course there are fixes for all this— cut the foundation, use extra nails, etc. But I resent spending the time and money to do a lot of extra work to make the equipment field ready. It negates the time-saving advantage of using plastic in the first place. Has anybody had problems with mixing and matching equipment from the major bee supply manufacturers? I've shopped around for the cheapest deals on equipment, but I'm beginning to consider the importance of buying all my equipment from the same source, if it will ensure all the equipment will all fit together well when I go assemble it. John ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 20:07:03 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Drone Congregation Areas Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All Those who attend the Irish Beekeeping School at Gormanston Co Meath will - all going well - be treated to the activities of a DCA by Karl Showler, who complete with his fishing rod and lure will seek out the nearby DCA. Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 23:51:03 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Kilty Subject: Re: Bumblebees In-Reply-To: <200007010332.XAA22559@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In message <200007010332.XAA22559@listserv.albany.edu>, Vivian Donahue writes > Bumblebees seem reluctant to sting, and appear to do so only if >they feel really threatened. snip >So I feel that it is best to treat >bumblebees with respect as there are some people who have an allergy >to bee venom that can lead to death even after just a single sting if >not treated promptly.." I have been called to advise when a child was stung and so long as they kept away from the nest (a hole in the ground) they were fine. The parents were happy with the solution and the reassurance. The child had trodden on the hole! Another case was a man who actually blocked the hole (also in the ground) with a stone and was attacked by the bees which came back. They stopped doing this when he took my advice to remove the stone! -- James Kilty ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 23:46:15 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Kilty Subject: Re: Producing Propolis In-Reply-To: <200007010330.XAA22505@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In message <200007010330.XAA22505@listserv.albany.edu>, CSlade777@AOL.COM writes >There seems to be a genetic component in the propensity to collect propolis. >I have one hive in an apiary of 5 that is collecting far more than all the >rest put together with no apparent reason. In my notes taken at my weekly inspections, I always note the tendency to propolise. Now I am routinely scraping it off but I intend to get some more propolis screens and use them. Some, like you say, Chris, give a great deal more: I think it is genetic but sycamore helps (or hinders if you don't want propolis!). -- James Kilty ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:53:34 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Peter Borst Subject: Re: Frame & foundation mis-fit In-Reply-To: <200007040400.AAA26309@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Greetings I have used the plastic foundation since they first came out about 20 years ago. I never really liked the one piece plastic frame/fdn combination because the top bar cracks so easily. Also they are ugly. Where I work now (Dyce Lab) we have a large number of wood frames with plastic fdn. We use grooved bottom bars and the plastic sheets seem to fit correctly. However there is a serious problem with simply snapping the sheet into the top and bottom groove. If the frame contains 5 or 6 pounds of honey, all of this weight rests on the bottom bar, which was not designed for this. I have seen the bottom bars blow out when handled roughly (like when you thump a super full of honey down on the truck bed). Normally a piece of foundation is fastened securely to the side bars and even the top bar, if you use frames with the nail in strip in the top bar. Obviously the top bar and the sides handle the weight of the honey, the bottom bar simply completes the frame. Also, if you skimp on the nails in the bottom bar, the weight of the comb may push the bottom bar out. All of this goes to show that there has to be some kind of a clip to hold the plastic onto the side bar of the frame. As far as drawing out plastic, I don't know if anyone mentioned the fact that you need a great honey flow and a strong hive to get any foundation drawn out successfully. Under these circumstances, you can get combs drawn using just about any type of "starter", even frames with no foundation. If the flow or hive are not strong, good results will not be obtained. You'll get half finished combs, and the bees may even chew and mutilate wax foundations. I think the best way to get new combs drawn is to put three new frames in the middle of a box of used combs. If you alternate the new and old combs, the bees will usually fatten the old ones excessively and skimp on the new. More uniform results come from putting the new ones together in a group. If you don't have many old combs, you should at least try to put a few in the middle of the box. This will act as a magnet to get the bees working in the box. Once the work is fairly well started, you can move the old combs to the outside and get the bees to finish the new combs in the middle, where the energy is more concentrated. -- pb ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 10:14:23 -0700 Reply-To: Bosaiya Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bosaiya Subject: Re: Frame & foundation mis-fit MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hmm, when I use plastic foundation with wooden frames, the bees happily draw comb up to, and partially on to, the wooden frame. The comb "glues" the plastic foundation to the frame quite nicely, and they are as solid as anything else. However, if yours are not doing that, I do have another solution. I made up a top-bar hive and found that the bees were having trouble with the wax starter strips. They didn't like to use them, and when they did the comb they built had a tendency to fall off under the weight of the bees, which further dis-interested them in building. So I took some plastic foundation to a table saw and made thin (maybe one inch) strips out of it. The strips were placed in the groove which had formerly held the wax starter, and I nailed in five frame nails, alternating sides with each one. At first I did only one side but it was obvious that it needed nailing from both directions. I drove each nail in about halfway, then bent the head down so it formed a sort of V shape, securely holding the foundation in (the ones I drove all the way in tended to simply pull through the plastic foundation). You could easily adapt this to your standard frames, but I haven't found it to be necessary. Regards, Bosaiya .....designs to knock you out..... http://www.knockoutproductions.com -----Original Message----- From: Peter Borst To: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 9:06 AM Subject: Re: Frame & foundation mis-fit > We use grooved bottom bars and the plastic sheets seem to fit >correctly. However there is a serious problem with simply snapping >the sheet into the top and bottom groove. If the frame contains 5 or >6 pounds of honey, all of this weight rests on the bottom bar, which >was not designed for this. I have seen the bottom bars blow out when >handled roughly (like when you thump a super full of honey down on >the truck bed). > Normally a piece of foundation is fastened securely to the >side bars and even the top bar, if you use frames with the nail in >strip in the top bar. Obviously the top bar and the sides handle the >weight of the honey, the bottom bar simply completes the frame. Also, >if you skimp on the nails in the bottom bar, the weight of the comb >may push the bottom bar out. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 22:40:38 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Anton Esterhuysen" Subject: B401 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi I am looking for B401, a biological larvacide for waxmoths. It contains = spores of Bacillus thuringiensis Berliner. It used to be manufactured by = Sandoz. Can anyone help? Anton Esterhuysen anton@honeybadger.co.za ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 20:56:46 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Mordenti Subject: Fw: Chemistry of beeswax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If anyone on the list can help Amy Chandler with the major properties of beeswax for a major A-level project this summer. See message below. Thank You in Advance M. Mordenti ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 5:18 PM Subject: Chemistry of beeswax > > Dear sir, > > I am an A-level Chemistry student from Harrogate in England. My father is an amateur beekeeper, and suggested that I investigate the major properties of beeswax for my major A-level project this summer. > > However, I am having difficulty tracking down the many Chemical references at the back of my dad's books as many are very old and hard to come by. > > I am especially interested in the results of thin layer chromatography of beeswax (using chloroform as a solvent) and specific names of mono-esters, di-esters and fatty acids found in the wax. > > I would be very grateful if you could provide me with some addresses to contact, or indeed, if you could help me yourself (if you happen to be a Chemist). > > Thank you so much for your time, > > Amy Chandler. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 20:12:46 -0500 Reply-To: Fr-Athanasios Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Fr-Athanasios Hello everyone, Today I experienced my first time witnessing a swarming. It was about eleven this morning when one of my visitors told me that over at my hives there was a strange noise. we went and there it was happening. Any way, My problem now is that it is up at the outer branches on one of my Oak trees about 50-70 feet up and it is impossible to get up there and bring it down. Does any one have any suggestions for any method to catch it? Thank you for your responses, + Fr. Athanasios ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 21:19:50 -0400 Reply-To: Jeffrey Merrow Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jeffrey Merrow Subject: Queen Colors MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This color system for marking and identifying queen honeybees is accepted and recognized internationally by beekeepers: White (or gray) is used for years ending in 1 or 6. Yellow is used for years ending in 2 or 7. Red is used for years ending in 3 or 8. Green is used for years ending in 4 or 9. Blue is used for years ending in 5 or 0. I have coined a little phrase that I find useful to help recall the sequence of years and colors: What Year is on the Royal Girl's Back? for White, Yellow, Red, Green, Blue. Does anyone have a Yellow or Red marked queen still working anywhere? ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 13:24:05 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Mann Subject: Re: lowering a swarm Comments: To: Fr-Athanasios In-Reply-To: <200007050116.VAA10836@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 8:12 PM -0500 00/7/4, Fr-Athanasios wrote: >Today I experienced my first time witnessing a swarming. > My >problem now is that it is up at the outer branches on one >of my Oak trees about 50-70 feet up and it is impossible >to get up there and bring it down. Does any one have any >suggestions for any method to catch it? If you are blessed with a clear sun, the Mirror Method should work: beam the image of the sun just above the swarm with a mirror, and then 'push' the swarm down the tree by nudging the sun-image onto the top of the swarm. In my experience the swarm will proceed at a slow but steady pace down the tree as you continue to push them with the sun image. Good luck R - Robt Mann consultant ecologist P O Box 28878 Remuera, Auckland 1005, New Zealand (9) 524 2949 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 22:21:58 -0500 Reply-To: Fr-Athanasios Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Fr-Athanasios Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation, Many Thanks Comments: To: "K.Michael Krizek" ----- Original Message ----- From: "K.Michael Krizek" To: "Fr-Athanasios" Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 8:53 PM Subject: RE: Plastic Foundation, Many Thanks Dear Michael, You write: > My question is did they build the frame out. I have been very >disappointed with the perco as they just do not build it out/ I have placed the Plasicells in three different boxes in three different hives. In the one hive on the third story I have placed 3 older already drawn frames and the other seven Plasticell. They are drawing the Plasticell with *amazing* speed in the three days that I sprayed it with the sugar+water+raspberry mix. In the other hive in the second story (only two) the same way and they are working on it amazingly. In the other hive in the third story all sprayed Plasticell with none already drawn frames, not only they have not touch it, but that is the one that swarmed on me earlier today. I guess my mistake was that I did not place any already drawn frames in that story. Hope this is of some help, + Fr. Athanasios Arkdale, Wisconsin ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 21:50:07 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: T'N'T Apiaries Subject: Re: Queen Colours, Candy & Cages MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In this area we use "When You Requeen, Get the Best" or "When You Requeen, Get Better" to remember the code. I have a number of Reds still going and possibly a yellow or two. A large number of Reds and a few Yellows were wondering between thumbs and hive tools around the end of May and the beginning of June. The Workers Compensation Board is investigating these job related accidents. We have excellent success with the JZBZ cage. Our expericence is the Queen has more protection with this cage than the old wooden three holer. The point is, if you are requeening properly she shouldn't need it. We attribute much of the success of acceptance to the scent in the plastic. The Marshmellows work well and can give you your sugar buzz if you moved hives over breakfast. If we want a longer release we use the honey icing sugar mix. These are the only two that we have found which will consistantly release queens no matter how large or more importantly small the colony. Dave Tharle Ardmore, AB ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 00:44:35 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Exceptions to rules MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit "john f. mesinger" wrote: > For thirty years of reading and listening to my mentors, I accepted > as universal truths, what I have found exceptions to in the past two years. > > 2] Queen excluders [called honey excluders by some] prevent the queen from > laying eggs in a super. > See 1b for the exception to that. My queen catcher has more narrow > spaces than the queen excluders. > Well, well. Maybe there may actually be an exception to this rule, but my bet is that the excluder has been bent and a space or two has been widened. I use excluders on all my hives, between the brood chamber and the supers, and only very occasionally do I have brood and queen in the supers. When this happens I look carefully at the excluder, and always find that I have inadvertently bent it. This is easy to do, because excluders are not fun to work with: supers or brood chambers stick to them, as often do the bottom pieces of frames. Yet they really are the very best method to be sure of keeping the queen from laying in your supers. Now - are they honey excluders? I run 2-queen units in three brood chambers, and most of my colonies already have four full supers of honey and our main honey flow has not yet started. My best hive has 6 full supers. If queen excluders really exclude honey, I don't think I could keep up with their production without them! Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:29:52 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: Drone Congregation Areas MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As I promised some time ago, I have now installed movies of DCAs on Dr. Loper's staff page. You will need the ability to show .avi files to see them, they are quite large, and there is no audio or descriptive text available yet. The film clips were taken from a video Dr. Loper and Wayne Wolf had made to demonstrate the usefulness of radar in detecting insects. http://198.22.133.109/home/loper/index.html - Link to other entomological radar sites at: http://scrl.usda.gov/SCRL/apmru/imms/radar/ ----------------------------------------------------------- John F. Edwards "Feral Bee Tracker and AHB Identifier" Carl Hayden Bee Research Center Tucson, Arizona 85719 http://198.22.133.109/ http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/home/edwards/edwards.html ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:27:23 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: William Morong Subject: Plastic foundation with top bars MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; X-MAPIextension=".TXT" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As an experiment, I made some Top Bar (frames ?) by nailing some plastic foundation, itself quite rugged, into split top bars. I was told that the bees would make a mess along their bottoms. The bees did not make a mess in the brood chamber, but did attach bottoms and sides where they make honey. After a couple scrapings-off of the mess, the bees gave up and neatly rounded the comb bottoms extending very slightly below the plastic foundation. Since I do not extract, these top bar combs would work here, but are probably not worth the bother of the initial scrapings, especially if the bees again try attachment every year. These combs are compatible with and mingled with standard medium frames. The bees draw waxed plastic fine as long as plenty of food is coming in. I haven't tried the unwaxed. Bill Morong ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:44:54 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: tomas mozer Subject: Biological clock gene in bees found to have another function Comments: cc: barkndog@aug.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: 3 JULY 2000 Contact: Jim Barlow, Life Sciences Editor b-james3@uiuc.edu 217-333-5802 University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign CHAMPAIGN, Ill. -- A gene associated with the biological clock in many organisms has revealed yet another function. In honeybees, which live in a world with a distinct division of labor, the gene is more active in the brains of older bees, especially foragers whose jobs are outside the hive. The new findings suggest that there are molecular connections occurring in the brain that influence the division of labor and the biological clocks of social insects, University of Illinois researchers say. The study, published June 6 in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, is the first to examine the period gene in a developmental context. "This paper implicates a clock gene in a function that is different than the basic mechanism of the biological clock," said entomologist Gene E. Robinson, director of the UI Bee Research Facility. "This may go beyond circadian rhythms. But we have no idea yet what causes the increase in gene activity, nor do we know its function. This is the first time that such developmental changes in the activity of the period gene have ever been detected." Robinson's team chose to examine the period gene for its possible role in the honeybees' complex, age-mediated labor system, because it had been found to be involved in time-related processes in fruit flies. Forager honeybees, Robinson said, have a highly developed internal circadian clock that guides their navigation, dancing communication and nectar gathering. In addition, he said, their division of labor is temporal -- a matter of timing and aging. In a study published in 1998, Robinson and colleagues looked for the rhythms of life in a beehive. They found that young bees shifted randomly between rest and work regardless of time as they performed their duties of feeding the larvae, while foragers only ventured from the hive during daytime hours. In the latest study, Robinson's team noted that levels of mRNA of the period gene, a message carrier of active DNA, rose and fell during the day in both young and old bees. This cyclic activity is a signature of all clock genes, including period. However, levels of mRNA were twice as high in older bees and in precocious foragers -- bees forced into foraging at an earlier than normal age. The latter discovery, Robinson said, suggests an association between foraging activities and high levels of period gene activity. The elevated levels, the authors wrote, "cannot be caused solely, if at all, by increased chronological age, foraging, flight, or exposure to the sun," as foragers confined to the laboratory and isolated in darkness away from their social environment for several days also maintained high levels. ### Working with Robinson were Dan Toma, a graduate student in the department of ecology, ethology and evolution who cloned the honeybee's period gene, postdoctoral researcher Guy Bloch, and Darrell Moore, a visiting biologist from East Tennessee State University. The National Institutes of Health, National Science Foundation and the UI were among the agencies that funded the research. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:55:28 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: huestis Subject: northeast MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi gang, Haven't heard any reports on how the season is going. Seems to be a = rather poor year in the northeast. Most colonies seem to be a super and = a half behind normal. How are others making out? I hope the fall flow = is alot better. Good luck all. Clayton Huestis Crown Point, NY ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:24:34 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Frank Nally Subject: Producing propolis What is propolis used for these days and is there much of a market? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 18:47:17 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CAIR Subject: What's happening in my hive? In-Reply-To: <200006282031.QAA12249@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hello I went to my hive today and found many bees, but few capped brood cells. In the past (I installed the package of bees in April), there was a lot of capped brood. Today, there were also three empty queen supercedure (sp?) cells on the size of one frame. The bees see hard at work, but I am disturbed that that most of the cells that previously held brood are empty. I also noticed what I considered to be many drones. I saw at least a half dozen at the entrance to the hive. Is this normal? Also, I have a comb honey super on the hive, but the beens do not seem to want to go through the queen excluder to start drawing comb. And finally, why do the beens swarm over the side of the hive when I am checking the frames? What is happening? Do I need to get another queen. (I have yet to see a queen, but that is because of my inexperience.) Ibrahim ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:32:16 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Insect Tracking Workshop - Building New Capabilities Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 11:56:36 -0600 >To: ENTOMO-L@LISTSERV.UOGUELPH.CA >From: Jerry J Bromenshenk >Subject: Insect Tracking Workshop - Advancing the Technology > >Bee Specialists, Entomologists, Electronics Specialists > >Our work and that of others working under DARPA's Controlled Biological and Biomimetic Systems has demonstrated a need for advanced tracking systems for following the movements of bees, other insects, small animals, and micro-robots. I realize that this is very short notice and must note that participation will be limited. We expect people like Joe Riley from U.K. (biologists who have existing tracking capabilities for bees and other small insects) and micro-electronics specialists to be at the meeting. The objective is to produce tracking systems that significantly improve existing technologies. For example, tracking of individuals bees at 1 km, using some type of "spray-on" tag rather than a glue-on antennae. >The purpose of the workshop is to conduct an open discussion leading to formulating a plan for producing advanced tracking systems in a very short period of time - either by greatly enhancing existing systems or by creating a new technology. > >Please respond directly to SWRI if you are interested in the workshop and can make a contribution. We are looking for creative problem solving and advanced technologies. > >Thanks > >Jerry Bromenshenk >The University of Montana Please respond directly to Ralph Hill at SWRI - ANNOUNCEMENT FOLLOWS > >>ANNOUNCEMENT #2: INSECT TRACKING WORKSHOP (AUGUST 2-3), SWRI, San Antonio, TX >> >>Goal: For the purpose of information exchange on insect (honeybees, moths, >>etc.) tracking and tagging and to develop a strategic action plan for >>demonstration of advanced tags and tracking for DARPA (Defense Advanced Research Projects Agency's) Controlled Biological >>and Biomimetic Systems program. >> >>Many concepts and topics are of interest. For instance: It may be >>possible to put a RF tag on a bee, but can it still fly? What is needed >>to track an insect? What are the weight restrictions. Can you glue >>instruments to a moth? What is a reasonable cost for tracking equipment? >> >>ATTENDANCE WILL BE LIMITED. >> >>PLEASE SUBMIT A SHORT ABSTRACT ABOUT WHAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTRIBUTE BY >>EMAIL (RHILL@SWRI.ORG). DEADLINE FOR ABSTRACTS IS JULY 10, SO WE WILL >>HAVE TIME TO NOTIFY YOU OF ACCEPTANCE. LIMITED TRAVEL FUNDS MAY BE >>AVAILABLE. >> >>Date: Aug 2-3, 2000 (Wednesday--all day, and Thursday--morning) >> >>Location: Southwest Research Institute (SwRI), Building 160 >>(Administration Building) 6220 Culebra Road, San Antonio, TX 78238-5166 >>(This is near to the future 1-acre 30-ft tall netted tent facility.) >> >>Website for more information: http://tent.space.swri.edu/workshop.html >>and related links. >> >>Hotel/Motel Information: There are many local motels and hotels in San >>Antonio. We have talked to two motels, close to SwRI, who will give you >>prices to meet the government rates. Please make your reservations >>yourself. >> >> Sierra Royale is a suite hotel off Bandera Road outside Loop 410. >> This is arranged like apartments, with kitchen and living room areas; >>address is 6300 Rue Marielyn. Contact Roxanna Morales in the Sierra >>Royale Sales office at (210) 647-0041 to make reservations. The room rate >>is $65.00 for one bedroom and $85.00 for a two-bedroom accommodation. >>Attendees need to identify themselves as being part of the DARPA Insect >>Tracking Workshop Group. >> >> Hampton Inn is a regular hotel room type facility. It is located >>at 4803 Manitou Street. The phone number is (210) 684-9966. The room >>block is listed under Confirmation number 83023138. When calling in >>reservations, this confirmation number must be given to the reservations >>clerk in order to get the discounted rate. The rate is $64.00, single >>occupancy with a king-size bed. Cut-off date for reservations is July >>25th, two weeks before the workshop. After this date, rooms may not be >>available with the discounted rate. >> >>Weather and Attire: The weather is hot in San Antonio in August. Last >>year on Aug 3 the peak temperature was 95° F, the nighttime temperature >>was 75° F , and there was reasonable humidity. Attire will be informal, >>with no ties or suits. >> >>Questions: Dr. Ralph Hill at 210/522-3358 or email: rhill@swri.org >> >> >> Jerry J. Bromenshenk jjbmail@selway.umt.edu http://www.umt.edu/biology/bees ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 07:30:40 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Joseph Augusta Subject: Call for beeswax-- MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is my annual call for beeswax--hoping to find someone within driving distance of Cape Cod who has wax to sell---just needs to be filtered once, not bleached, and can be put up in any container. I'm a painter who uses wax as painting medium in an old Greek/Roman technique known as encaustic. Best wishes, joseph jaugusta@adelphia.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 21:05:43 +0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Durk Ellison Subject: Re: Producing propolis MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit See http://www.saunalahti.fi/~apither/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Nally" To: Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 6:24 AM Subject: Producing propolis > What is propolis used for these days and is there much of a market? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:44:22 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Frame & foundation mis-fit MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > I have a different problem with plastic foundation in medium wood frames. > I bought my frames from one manufacturer, and my foundation from another. > There seems to be a problem with the fit, but it's not a consistent problem. > Sometimes the frames seem too shallow for the plastic foundation and it > forces the bottom bar to bow, or the foundation to bow, or it forces the > nails out, or even splits the bottom bar. It seems as though either the frame > is a little too shallow, or the foundation is a little too tall. But > sometimes the fit is just right and the foundation seats loosely but snugly > in the frame. I had exactly the same problem when I first combined plastic foundation with wooden medium frames that had grooved top and bottom bars. The foundation simply would not fit the frames. The supplier insisted I was constructing the frames incorrectly, suggested all sorts of solutions (like cutting the corners of the foundation, inserting the foundation prior to nailing the frames, and others that did not work), and refused to exchange the foundation for crimped wire which I was willing to use in desperation to get an acceptable fit. What I finally discovered was that the width of the raised pattern on the foundation was too thick to fit into the grooves of the top and bottom bars! The foundation was of the correct size, but the grooves were too narrow for the foundation to fit! I ended up having to run both ends of the foundation through my router to trim it down enough to fit into the grooves. I pointed out the problem to my supplier who in turn pointed it out to his manufacturer, and now the grooved top and bottom bars come with a wider groove. > But I resent spending the time and money to do a lot of extra work to make the equipment > field ready. Yes, to this day I am not happy with how this situation was handled. Every time I come across the bowed frames (and I constructed MANY before I figured out what was wrong) I am not happy. I bought the grooved frames and plastic foundation to save on time when time was critical. I spent a good deal of time diagnosing the problem and correcting the combination, and my supplier got a free fix at my expense. But that's water over the dam. John, I suspect your immediate solution can be found at a router. As far as buying all your equipment from the same source, that will only work if your source does the same. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:14:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Peter Borst Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 3 Jul 2000 to 4 Jul 2000 (#2000-180) In-Reply-To: <200007050400.AAA15149@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 12:00 AM 7/5/00 -0400, you wrote: >Hmm, when I use plastic foundation with wooden frames, the bees happily draw >comb up to, and partially on to, the wooden frame. The comb "glues" the >plastic foundation to the frame quite nicely, and they are as solid as >anything else. I don't think the attachment of wax has the capability of handling the weight like clips would, or even the old fashioned wiring did. That's why the combs break out the bottom bars, all the weight is pressing down on them. I have seen dozens of these. I had a big pile of them on my workbench. They are a sticky mess to repair, too. Incidentally, we purchased several hundred Pierco frames and a supering with them, 7 to a box with 3 drawn combs. The black ones are nice -- you can really see the eggs in the bottom of the black plastic cells. I still don't like the "look and feel" of plastic frames, but they do have more square inches available for comb... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Peter Borst plb6@cornell.edu http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/plb6/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:30:24 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Barta, Adrian DATCP" Subject: southern WI flow MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >From my own hives and talks with several other beekeepers: good hive strength, clover blooming everywhere--a disappointing amount of honey tucked away. Too many rainy days, I guess.... Adrian Barta Madison, WI ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 17:37:38 -0400 Reply-To: ncbeekeeper@angelfire.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Martin Organization: Angelfire (http://email.angelfire.mailcity.lycos.com:80) Subject: New Web Site for NC Area (USA) Beekeepers Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Especially for beekeepers in the North Carolina, USA area: The North Carolina State Beekeepers Association now has a home page at www.ncbeekeepers.org Of timely interest, details of the July 20-22, 2000 Summer Convention in Burlington, NC USA are included on the web site. David Martin NCSBA Web Site Coordinator Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.angelfire.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 21:07:54 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Skriba Subject: Foundation Support pins MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A question for the masses: Does anyone use the foundation support pins sold by Dadant as opposed to wiring their frames? Looks pretty convienent, but was thinking like any modern convienences there has to be some trade-off. Bill ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:32:35 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: awcannon Subject: Re: What's happening in my hive? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ----- Original Message ----- From: CAIR To: Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 11:47 PM Subject: What's happening in my hive? > Hello > snip > I went to my hive today and found many bees, but few capped brood cells. In > the past (I installed the package of bees in April), there was a lot of > capped brood. > > Today, there were also three empty queen supercedure (sp?) cells on the > size of one frame. > > it seems that the old queen that you installed with the package bees is dead or missing. if the supersedure queen/s are about then it may still be a virgin waiting to be mated. if you get a lot of drones and drone brood, maybe you have laying workers these will give you drones, as of course they would not be fertile and mated. you may need to check again for a queen and if not found then you must requeen. take care and stay lucky Albert Cannon. http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~awcannon/Frontpage.htm ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:53:16 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Maysoon Shukur Subject: maryland flow MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello I had a very strong hive. Ran 2 queens for about 2 weeks. They have filled up their portions but I have about 1/4 of super for me. Not much considering. This is my first yr bee keeping and I was hoping for a least a 1/2 decent crop. But this is like farming but the bees do most of the work. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 07:15:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: michael Bassett Subject: Re: northeast On Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:55:28 -0700, huestis wrote: >Haven't heard any reports on how the season is going. Seems to be a rather poor year in the northeast. Most colonies seem to be a super and a half behind normal. How are others making out? I hope the fall flow is alot better. Good luck all. Until the last two weeks of june I had no flow at all my yards except for one which was going crazy all month. No lack of bees or bloom just no honey. The last two weeks I got buried and they filled everything I had on and I've been trying to catch up ever since. What really drives me crazy is I have no clue what they were into as I couldn't find very much bloom in my travels? I had three early may 5 frame nucs that I moved to a new location, two I kept up with and each drew out one med and filled it each week for three week's. even though the white clover has been in bloom for 2-3 weeks they are just starting to hit it now so whatever they were into must be going by. mike bassett Grafton Mass. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 07:31:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: michael Bassett Subject: pollen bound in northeast I was wondering if anyone else has noticed this problem, any remidies? Due to treating for mites in mid August, and most of my hive are permanent located pollination contracts I had to insure enough space late in the year to keep the bees working. I went to overwintering in 3 deeps,which worked wonderfully for 3-4 years. the past three years I have had so much pollen coming in early and so many bees early that in many hives I have one to one and a half deeps of pollen by the beggining of june and right through the summer. the bees needless to say consider this to be brood chamber congestion and my number of swarms has risen dramaticly! It's very useful for making nuc's etc because I have an abundance of bees and pollen but makes judging how much room there is in the brood chamber tricky because if you just lift it (even if full of pollen) it feels empty andyou think the queen has plenty of room. they let you know when you make this mistake. I'm considering pollen traps but since you have to check them every other day and I'm far from my hives this option isn't very attractive. thanks Mike Bassett Grafton, mass. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 09:02:54 PDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GREGOIRE@ENDOR.COM Subject: Re: southern WI flow /NE flow MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello Gang, May 1, began six straight weeks of rain and cool weather. We had just 3 days of sunshine in May. I did not get a honey crop this spring. The good news is that I did make a 50 % increase in hive count. I lost only one hive this winter, so I am satisfied with this increase despite the lack of a honey crop. Ernie Gregoire "Beekeeper," definition= partially brave, partially excentric Grist Mill Apiary Canaan, New Hampshire, USA ------------------------------------- 07/07/99 09:02:54 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 09:32:46 PDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GREGOIRE@ENDOR.COM Subject: Re: Foundation Support pins MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello Gang, Foundation support pins are very expensive. If you insist on not wiring the frames, which is time consuming, but very effective, you can use hair pins. The hair pins are much cheaper. They do a good job and will fit the holes in the frames without burning them out with a soldering iron. I foolishly used the pins and enlarged the holes to accommodate them in a batch of deep brood chambers. These will never bee extracted so strength is not the consideration here. Wiring produces the straightest comb. This is a great assets because it reduces burr comb. Ernie Gregoire "Beekeeper," definition= partially brave, partially excentric Grist Mill Apiary Canaan, New Hampshire, USA ------------------------------------- 07/07/99 09:32:47 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:45:09 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ellen Anglin Subject: Re: Foundation Support pins Comments: cc: WSkriba@AOL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii --- Bill Skriba wrote: > A question for the masses: Does anyone use the > foundation support pins sold by > Dadant as opposed to wiring their frames? > > I have used pins, but I have never been very happy with them. The combs are often crooked or bowed once the bees get to drawing them out. Plastic foundation is much easier to deal with, if you want to avoid wiring- and the combs turn out much better! I have had good results with Plasticell, Rite-cell, and Pierco foundations. Ellen Anglin Mt. Clemens MI ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 09:56:22 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Northeast flow MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit SE CT USA near the RI state line Bees were working in fits and starts, a good flow followed by a week of wet followed by brutal humid heat followed by wet and then a few beautiful days of dry air and foraging. A few of the principal flows were missed due to rain and there is less honey on the hives. The honey is however of very nice flavor and light in color, splits helped with swarming and although swarming was a bit more than last year so far none of the swarms settled in nusiance places. Some too high to safely retrieve but none in the neighbors mailbox etc. I was fortunate enough to obtain some of the formic gel packs and will be treating for mites earlier than last year. The fall honey was not as tasty as previous years so I doubt this year will be much different given predicted weather. I figure that where I would be taking two fully capped supers off a strong hive and seeing 2 half capped supers below I am taking one fully capped super and seeing 3 half capped supers below with brood in the fifth super just above the BC. This probably means taking the next ones off during the late July dearth which if you are brushing is a bit rough. Varroa is present the bees are outpacing them at the moment. I hear stories that in parts of the south it is so dry the catfish have ticks on them. How are you southern beekeepers coping with drought? ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 10:55:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: Foundation Support pins / plastic foundation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain >Plastic foundation is much easier to deal with, if you >want to avoid wiring- and the combs turn out much >better! I have had good results with Plasticell, >Rite-cell, and Pierco foundations. I have been using only plastic foundation (with the exception of my cut comb and Ross Rounds(tm) production) and am very happy. There are problems with the one piece frames as I have had the ears crack when prying them out. I have also seen the problems with the plastic in wood frames with the bottom of the frame coming lose from the weight. In all I am leaning to the all plastic frames as my time is the most expensive issue. If I were to put my cost of a plastic frame at $2.00US then I have little problem with tossing a cracked frame out every so often. Unless you have a well thought out production environment for building frames and installing foundation I doubt you can get better than 5 minutes per frame, or around 12 per hour (remember to include set up, sorting, and clean up time in the project time). For me the cost of my labor plus the materials makes the plastic frame/foundation products a sure win. Of course if you enjoy working with your hands and assembling frames provides you with the satisfaction of a job well done then the cost can swing the other way very fast. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:27:03 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Foundation Support pins / plastic foundation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I use two hive tools when removing plastic frames. I slip the end of a new style hooked end hive tool under the ear and I rest an old style one on the adjacent frame to pry against. This eliminates crushing the top of the ears down. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:57:41 -0400 Reply-To: LibBEE@email.msn.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Wood Frames/ plastic foundation In-Reply-To: <200007071517.LAA23616@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Do the People having problems with wooden frames coming apart use wood glue? I used to use Titebond 2 wood glue. And in some frames I used the glue without nails. Those frames are still being used as that glue seems to weld the wood together. I hope that helps. Garry Libby Attleboro, Massachusetts, USA 41.56 N 71.17 W LibBEE@email.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 16:36:37 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Terry Lee Moore Subject: Swarm in my yard MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've just had a bee swarm land under my tree in my yard. I'd like to see someone get these and put them to good use. Anyone got any ideas how I can give these away or what to do or how to do it? Please call. -- Terry Terry Lee Moore, KI0RE Home: 303-465-3233 3183 W. 12th Ave Ct Work: 303-541-6737 Broomfield, CO 80020-6760 Pager: 303-405-9914 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 15:13:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: Wood Frames/ plastic foundation Comments: To: "LibBEE@email.msn.com" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain >Do the People having problems with wooden frames coming apart use wood glue? I have always used glue (Titebond) with nails. Waterproof glue is much stronger than nails but the nails help clamp the wood together to allow a proper drying of the glue and help provide a backup if the glue fails. When out in the field a failure of a "glue only" frame is hard to repair. With nails a few taps with the hive tool can save a larger problem. I am finding that the frames that give me the most problems have a kind of double notch in the in the bottom and side bar joint. One half of the joint likes to come lose along a split in the wood. Other frames that have a simple U shaped joint have not given me any problems....yet ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 16:44:50 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "john f. mesinger" Subject: Re: Foundation Support pins In-Reply-To: <200007071031.GAA18215@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I used to use them for 5+in supers, but do not need them for comb honey production. I do add them to vertically wired brood frames instead of horizontal wires and see no problems. John F. Mesinger jfm6f@unix.mail.virginia.edu ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 20:55:29 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Becky or Al S Boehm Subject: sunscreen Hello bee-people, I have a skin condition called vitiligo where the pigment dies or something. This leaves the skin very subject to easy sunburn. I dont use gloves when working the bees and sometimes work in a short sleve shirt. My dr. said I must use sunscreen from now on because of the burning. Has anyone had any experience with sunscreen and the bees reaction to it? Does it premote agressive behavior like perfume (most sunscreens have a scent in them)? I hate to cover up everything as I loose the feel of whats happening with the hive ( and its terrible hot in the carolinas). Any help is appreciated even off list. thank you Al Boehm Columbus N C ps sourwood is in full bloom and the bees are gleefull , two hives are working the 5th super and spring splits are filling the second and third supers, well at least a summer flow is good. Drought is real bad here, wont have to mow fields or lawn for awhile. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 20:06:21 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Frame & Foundation Mis fit MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In the UK the side bars have grooves as well. Plastic foundation is a rarity here but side grooves may help your problem of holding the foundation in position when under stress. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 20:58:36 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: tomas mozer Subject: southeast flow Comments: cc: jennifer@aug.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Honey Production Suffering By ELLIOTT MINOR, Associated Press Writer June 27, 2000 http://news.excite.com/news/ap/000627/00/farm-scene FARGO, Ga. (AP) - Bees buzzing around the gallberry bushes near south Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp this spring found less nectar for making honey and less pollen for food, thanks to a third straight year of drought. Dry conditions mean flowering plants don't produce as much pollen, a main source of protein and vitamins for bees. They also don't produce as much nectar, the sweet liquid bees collect from flowers to make honey. The result for beekeepers: a drop in honey production. "We made honey, but not as much," said Barry Hart, an employee of the Griffis Honey Co. "I think we'll have 75 percent of a normal crop." Griffis Honey, owned by Josh Griffis, has about 2,500 hives at 40 to 50 sites. The company is located in the remote logging community of Fargo, west of the Okefenokee Swamp. Georgia ranks 14th nationally in honey production with a crop that's worth about $2.1 million, said Keith Delaplane, a bee specialist with the University of Georgia Extension Service in Athens. But beekeepers also make money by renting their bees out to pollinate crops or selling "packaged bees" for establishing new hives. Buyers can purchase a queen only, or a queen and worker bees. With those ventures included, the overall economic impact of Georgia bees jumps to about $70 million a year, Delaplane said. Ideally, honey bees need ample rainfall in the early spring and then dry conditions in May, when the bulk of the honey is produced. But "when there's enough of a drought, something has to give," Delaplane said. "Nectar production is the first to go." Fred Rossman, president of Rossman Apiaries Inc. in Moultrie, said bees need water just as people do. Rossman said his bees are getting sufficient moisture from occasional showers and from irrigation systems. But he has decided to postpone honey collection until fall so that his bees will have food through the summer. Hart said wildfires linked to the drought also are a big threat to beekeepers, who must be prepared to move their hives quickly. "We've had several fires burning close to our hives," Hart said. "We didn't have to move any, but there has been some danger." Bears have become another problem for the south Georgia bee industry, particularly near the Okefenokee, which is a national wildlife refuge. Sometimes even an electrified fence won't prevent hungry bears from ripping the hives apart and feasting on the honey. "Bears will go through a fence when they realize all it's going to do is shock them," Hart said. "We have a lot of damage every year." ---