From MAILER-DAEMON Sun Jan 14 07:40:08 2001 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by luna.oit.unc.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id HAA05050 for ; Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:40:07 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id HAA00175 for ; Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:43:03 -0500 (EST) Message-Id: <200101141243.HAA00175@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:42:59 -0500 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0009D" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Content-Length: 39230 Lines: 847 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 06:52:40 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: reno Subject: Re: Small Hive Beetle MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Concerning the use of COR-AL on the small hive beetle. First, I understand the legal issues involved with the use of pesticides. However; This product is 1% coumaphos whereas the Bayer Bee Strips are 10% coumaphos. Both products are manufactured by Bayer. Common sense would dictate that if the 1% product will do the job, why use something stronger and less safe to handle ? Of course the strips are way more expensive that the powdered product. Economics could be playing a role in this as well, and may be one reason that COR-Al is not labeled for the small hive beetle (bees). I have not decided whether to use either product as I hate the use of any chemicals that might leave a residue in my honey. I am thinking of traps using small medicine bottles. Just my thoughts on the subject and appreciated the input. Thanks and I hope the winter is kind to you all. Will Lewis ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:10:57 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rimantas Zujus Subject: combining stocks MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-4" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Beefriends Bob Harrison writes: >A > weak queenright hive i don't want to carry through the winter i combine > with another weak queenright with a newspaper. Here is an opinion to join a weak bee stock into a strong hive (taking the queen out before). This way you are sure your little ladies go to "good hands". A union of two week parts doesn't mean making a good stock for future. Sincerely Rimantas e-mail : zujus@isag.lei.lt ICQ# : 4201422 http://rizujus.lei.lt/ 55 North, 24 East ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:13:30 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: varroa test results from Missouri MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As far as I know PMS comes and goes with the mites. Think of them like a tick bite- the bite itself isn't much of a wound but the bacteria and stuff that comes along with the bite are a big deal. Take a good flashlight and a hand lens and really inspect the brood combs for disease signs like foulbrood ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:47:13 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Coumaphos MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Will Lewis said "However; This product is 1% coumaphos whereas the Bayer Bee Strips are 10% coumaphos. Both products are manufactured by Bayer. Common sense would dictate that if the 1% product will do the job, why use something stronger and less safe to handle ? Of course the strips are way more expensive that the powdered product." Well...I can think of a few reasons (other than the legal considerations) not to use the spray: 1. As far as varroa is concerned...at this time of year some 60%-70% of all varroa in the hive is in sealed brood cells, where the spray will not reach them. Therefore, the spray would be largely ineffective unless it were repeated every 2-3 days for 40 days (two brood cycles)! 2. While the formulation in the strips is made to be hydro-phobic (not readily dissolved into a liquid such as honey), it seems that the spray material is not. Otherwise, how could it be dissolved into a liquid for spraying? Do you really want even a 1% solution in honey were it could someday be moved up into a super? 3. As far as small hive beetle is concerned, will 1% do the job? My limited information is that the adult is very difficult to kill (without also killing bees or larvae). 4. A 1% treatment will surely kill less than 99% of varroa (rate killed with the 10% strips) and fewer small hive beetles. This will lead to selection for resistance at a faster rate than otherwise. While I hate to be preachy, my understanding is that thinking similar to that being considered by Mr. Lewis is what has led to the rapid coumaphos resistance being reported in Europe. However, I do recognize that Mr. Lewis is only considering using the spray and I am certain that his better judgement will prevail and he will not actually do so. Lloyd Mailto: Lloyd@rossrounds.com. Lloyd Spear Owner, Ross Rounds, Inc. The finest in comb honey production. Visit our web site at http://www.rossrounds.com. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 09:51:33 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Housel Subject: Re: Hive Beetle Ground Treatment MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Soap on the ants works better than any other treatment. 20 mules I haven't tried, just a drop of Dawn. Gasoline will cover the ground water with a film. Something like one cup to an acre. It will stop plant roots from tapping into that water. There are questions as to build up under the gasoline film on the ground water and the fungi and bacteria. The film of soften water from the borax may dissipate into the water to quickly. Michael Housel Trying to raise Honeys without the chemical makeup. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:51:15 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adalbert Goertz Subject: Bees and Wildflowers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I added a "Bees and Wildflowers" page to my website and invite comments and corrections from anyone interested. Enjoy. -- ** Adalbert & Barbel Goertz ** ph 719-390-1088 ** -- retired in Colorado Springs, (Colorado is a state of mind) --- Mennonite genealogy of East and West Prussia prior to 1945. Deutsche Web-Betreuung http://www.cyberspace.org/~goertz/beep2.html Holocaust is big business now ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 06:43:21 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: reno Subject: coumaphos MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Not to belabor this subject, but the COR-AL 1 % coumaphos is a dust that is applied, as I understand it from one beekeeper, to the frame rests in the hive body where the beetle hides. It is not liquefied and sprayed. I have been told that the beetle crawls through it, gets coated and dies. Anyway, I appreciate the input. My best weapon for the beetle thus far has been my hive tool. Will Lewis.. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:32:21 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Saul Rosenfeld Subject: Gleanings in Bee Culture, January 1, 1905 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I've been searching for over 2 years now for the january 1, 1905 issue of gleanings- and I want it so badly I'd be happy to pay $200 for a nice copy. can anybody help me? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 09:06:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "KAMRAN F FAKHIMZADEH (MMSEL)" Organization: University of Helsinki Subject: New invention MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Dear friends; Thank you for your kind letters and demands for a copy of the article (Amer. Bee J Sept. 2000). Due to the huge number of your kind e-mails, please be patient until I find time to answer to your questions and demands. Please also notice to include your address if you want the hard copy. The electronic version contains only text without figures as it is in txt format. Best regards Kamran Fakhimzadeh ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:14:48 +0200 Reply-To: Jorn_Johanesson@apimo.dk Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jorn Johanesson Subject: Beekeeping in Greenland MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In an attempt to keep the genetic pool intact in the apis melifica melifica ( the European black bee) 6 families was transferred to the south of Greenland in 1951. Those families was only alive in four years. In 1998 and 1999 are transferred 29 families to Greenland and placed around among Greenland sheep keepers. The most north are in Narsarsuaq and the most south are placed in Saputit right south of Nanortalik. It is a three year scientific Project which aim is to see if it is possible to do beekeeping in South Greenland. In the Greenland newspaper Sermitsiak Ivar Silis the 21 of July writes, that Agathe Paviasen sold honey at the sheep holders anniversary in Qarqortoq. Agathe Paviasen , coming from the area around Narsarsuaq, is one of the project hosts. It is mentioned in the article that Agathe in 1999 had a crop of 14kg. The honey was sold at the anniversary in 50g glass for Danish 35kr a glass. it gives a kg price around 100 US. Not that bad I think. Best regards Jorn Johanesson Multilingual software for beekeeping since 1997 hive note- queen breeding and handheld computer beekeeping software full revised and bug tested 20-09-200 home page = HTTP://apimo.dk e-mail Jorn_Johanesson@apimo.dk ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:35:23 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Coumaphos Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Lloyd Spear did a good job of pointing out why a 1% formulation may not control mites and may lead to resistance. Others clearly indicated that the use of CO-RAL in beehives is illegal. However, the statement that CO-RAL is safer than using mite strips is not true. Coumaphos is a general use pesticide that in some formulations is classified as a restricted use pesticide, because it poses a hazard of acute poisoning by inhalation or ingestion. It is also moderately toxic through the skin. I doubt that anyone is going to inhale a mite strip, and hopefully everyone handling this product in any form will wear gloves and wash their hands before eating. But a powder form of this chemical poses an entirely diffent risk than that of the chemical contained in a contact dispersing strip. EPA is being very cautious about the use of this chemical in a beehive. Why? Because it is an organophosphate pesticide. Organophosphates are neurotoxins. They interfer with the proper working of the nervous systems of humans and insects. These insecticides owe their existence to the discovery by the Germans during WWII that organophosphates were suitable for chemial warfare. Organophosphates are the chemical basis of the often referred to "nerve gases" like sarin, tabun, and soman. They are an example of the sword being turned into a plowshare - but its still lethal - to humans, to insects, and to bees. I found a good description of coumaphos, one that is not overly difficult to understand, at http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/carbaryl-dicrotophos/coumaphos -ext.html EPA is carefully monitoring whether coumaphos can end up in honey as well as the risk to the applicator. The agency is being cautious - they don't normally let someone put a highly toxic poison in close proximity to anything likely to be consumed by humans - in this case honey. Properly used, the strips are supposed to reduce or eliminate this risk. But, the powder could easily end up in the honey. If that ever happens and is discovered, the Alar/Apple scare may seem trivial by comparison. Finally, my guess is that the powder could easily be toxic to brood. Don't get me wrong - I'm not trying to be an alarmist, and I haven't calculated the dose/response numbers for a 1% formulation of coumaphos. I suspect you'd have to inhale or ingest a fair amount of this stuff before you were aware of any effects (which may take 1-4 weeks to appear) - but keep in mind that the organophosphates are by and large rather nasty pesticides in terms of potential for harm to human and to bee health. Bottom line - even if you don't worry about your own health or that of your bees, you are putting the beekeeping industry at risk if you start experimenting with this chemical in your hives. Do any of you want to be known as the beekeeper who dealt the death blow to U.S. honey sales AND caused EPA to revoke the permit to use coumaphos to control the small hive beetle? End of the soap box. Jerry J. Bromenshenk jjbmail@selway.umt.edu http://www.umt.edu/biology/bees ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 20:39:49 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: van looveren dirk Subject: Re : Small Hive Beetle MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You can put your beehives in the chichen-run. The chicken will eat the the larvae , when they come out of the beehive. Dirk Van Looveren ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 13:42:07 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Frank Battistolo Subject: Frank Battistolo In-Reply-To: <200009211218.IAA27295@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello Frank Battistolo is my father-in-law. He passed away quietly last night in hospital. I don't know if he posted many messages to BEE-L, but if you knew him and wish to send a message to his family, please address it to gary-jacek@home.com. I will pass it along to them. I will be unsubscribing Franks email from BEE-L this afternoon. BEE-L looks like a very useful resource. I know Frank read it every day. I wish I had it twenty years ago when I kept bees. Take care everyone. Gary Jacek frankb@cyberstore.ca ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 06:32:53 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: New info from ARS re AHB MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > Within only 1 week after their queen dies or is removed by beekeepers, > Africanized worker bees—which are female—can produce their own viable eggs > for requeening the hive. > That gives the Africanized bees a headstart in the battle for hive rule, > because European worker bees’ ovaries can’t start producing eggs until the > queen has been missing for at least 3 weeks. Queenless Africanized workers > that have developed ovaries and are laying their own eggs are less likely to > accept a new European queen—and may attack and kill her. I did not notice any comments on this news release, but, to me, it suggests that both AHB and EHB can lay worker eggs. I think the cape bee and AHB are being lumped together here, but the cape bee was also mentioned in the post, so what is going on? If true, I need to tell my bees of the new development, since they seem to be old school and do not have access to the internet. Bill Truesdell Bath, ME ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:06:34 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James P Parkman Subject: beekeeping & archaeology In-Reply-To: <200009232220.e8NMKcK15199@mailhost.cas.utk.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Does anyone know of a website containing the following images? 1) ancient Egyptian ?painting? of beekeeping 2) prehistoric cave painting of honey robbers I believe they are in E. Crane's book, but I haven't been able to get my hands on it. Thanks. J. Patrick Parkman University of Tennessee-Knoxville ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 10:43:09 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: undrawn foundation dilemma MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" This message was originally submitted by marcs@LEGATO.COM to the BEE-L list at LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to remove hypertext formatting. ----------------- Original message (ID=EB380BF2) (97 lines) ------------------- Message-ID: <024b01c027be$401dd3e0$1703a8c0@legato.com> Reply-To: "Marc Sevigny" From: "Marc Sevigny" To: "bee" Cc: "Ernest J. Gregoire" Subject: undrawn foundation dilemma Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:32:39 -0400 Hello, I live in Massachusetts and would like advice about a condition I have in one of my hives. The hive is mean, and therefore has been neglected. This week, I went to take a look at it to see how well prepared it is for winter. The bottom brood chamber looks good, nice brood pattern, plenty of pollen and honey. But the upper brood chamber is only about 20% drawn. There were two full honey supers above the foundation that the bees were using for brood and honey. Those have since been converted to all honey after placing a queen excluder beneath them after isolating the queen. I had assumed that this would stimulate the drawing out of the foundation for the top brood chamber but this has not happened. So the hive does not have enough foundation/honey to make it through the winter. Furthermore, only aster and goldenrod are providing nectar at this time, and that will slow down very shortly. I do not have extra brood chamber comb (drawn) to give them. I could give them medium supers to use, but those have all been extracted. I could feed them, too, if that is necessary. I have about 60 pounds of honey that was extracted and kept as feed since it was not fully capped or reduced (too thin). Can I use this as feed? If so, how do I introduce it to them so as not to stimulate robbing or other aggressive behavior since the odor of the honey will drift to other nearby colonies? (I do have a division board feeder that can be placed below the inner cover). Does one need to water down the honey prior to feeding? Thanks for your advice and help. Marc Harvard, Massachusetts ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:48:50 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: undrawn foundation dilemma MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain >I have about 60 pounds of honey that was extracted and kept as feed since it >was not fully capped or reduced (too thin). Can I use this as feed? If so, >how do I introduce it to them so as not to stimulate robbing or other >aggressive behavior since the odor of the honey will drift to other nearby >colonies? (I do have a division board feeder that can be placed below the >inner cover). Does one need to water down the honey prior to feeding? To prevent robbing a pail feeder seems to work best. It may be too late to requeen this hive but if it is as mean as you say I would sure think about it. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:21:11 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: huestis Subject: Re: undrawn foundation dilemma MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello, Take the top brood chamber that is 20% drawn off the hive. Save this for spring time. Take two honey supers(shallow or mediums) and put them were the undrawn brood chamber was. Remove the end frame of each box and add your division board feeder. Feed straight honey in the feeder and plug the two supers out the best you can. Check during winter on stores and feed sugar syrup as necessary or granulated sugar or fondant. In the spring reverse as usual then reverse again in 10 to 15 days. Put queen ex. between brood chamber and supers. When the brood hatches remove the supers with bee escape. Add the old brood chamber and feed until it is completely drawn. Never add supers above an undrawn brood nest and eliminate those aggressive queens. Good Luck. Clayton Huestis Crown Point, NY 45 colonies and ready for winter! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 12:44:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "C.R. Crowell" Subject: Re: undrawn foundation dilemma- robbing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I had several nucs this summer, and a few were slow to draw comb. I fed them using a division feeder in the upper brood super. They seemed to take the syrup well, but in at least one case I noticed that it wasn't those bees that were taking it - it was another stronger hive that would start robbing it out. I had thought that the use of a division feeder reduced the likelihood of robbing (certainly making it less likely than using a Boardman feeder). Once I realized what was going on I moved the nuc to a location where I had other hives of similar strength. I could also have added an entrance reducer to make it easier for them to defend the entrance, but I decided to move it instead (I still could add a reducer). The literature suggests that once a hive is being robbed, the queen may stop laying. I wanted them to be happy - so I moved them. Curtis Crowell Hightstown, NJ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:05:48 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Chris Ignasiak <75442.1721@COMPUSERVE.COM> Subject: Homemade warming box MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit To be posted: I am a hobby beekeeper with 2 hives in NE Ohio. I used to keep bees 20 years ago and just have come back to it. Does anybody have any advice on making a homemade warming box? I pulled supers a few weeks ago and they are in my garage, covered and taped. The weather has turned cold and I haven't extracted yet. I've read that commercial beekeepers have a "warm room" that they put their supers in before extracting. Could I use the same prinicipal and make a warming box? I was thinking of putting 1 or 2 empty deeps on the bottom with a lightbulb or lamp inside and the supers on top, all covered. If I left it alone long enough wouldn't it warm the supers enough to make extracting easier? Has anyone tried this or have advice? Any drawbacks? I'd appreciate any feedback. Chris Ignasiak of Avon, Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:41:52 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Homemade warming box MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I have done that for years. Go to the Lumber yard or Home Depot and buy 2 sheets of 1/2" Celetex Insulated Siding, 4'x8', plus a 4'x4' sheet if you can, cut the 2 sheets in half, so they are 4'x4'. Screw a furring strip on about 1" back from the edge of both ends of 2 of the 4x4 sheets as if they were a door frame board. Put your supers in a space smaller than 4x4 plus a 100 watt light bulb and a thermometer. Put the 4 sheets of celetex in a box shape around the supers and the 5 sheet on top as a cover. Voila, you have a heat box. Depending on your garage temperature, you can get your honey up to 80-90° in 1-2 days, and you can change this my using a 50 watt bulb or a 200 watt bulb You can easily pull a screw right through the Celetex, so put a big washer on the screws. Hope I have helped. George Imirie ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:36:34 -0600 Reply-To: darn@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: darn@FREENET.EDMONTON.AB.CA Subject: Re: Homemade warming box In-Reply-To: <200009262217.SAA15700@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hi Chris: We extract honey without heating. We used to put the stuff in a hot room and leave it for a day to reduce the moisture content, but it really doesn't make any difference to the extracting. The combs seem to break up a lot more if they are hot. You don't want to leave them very long before extracting because they will granulate and then you can't extract them at all. Best regards, Donald Aitken Edmonton Alberta Canada ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:49:41 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Yarnell Organization: Oregon VOS Subject: Re: Homemade warming box In-Reply-To: <200009262217.SAA15709@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII For a couple of hives, an old refrigerator with a 75 or 100 watt bulb hooked up inside. Make sure the refer is big enough to hold the boxes. --------------- Richard Yarnell, SHAMBLES WORKSHOPS | No gimmick we try, no "scientific" Beavercreek, OR. Makers of fine | fix we attempt, will save our planet Wooden Canoes, The Stack(R) urban | until we reduce the population. Let's composter, fly tying benches | leave our kids a decent place to live. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 19:33:13 -0500 Reply-To: busybeeacres@discoverynet.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: bob harrison Subject: Re: Homemade warming box MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Chris Ignasiak wrote: > > Does anybody have any advice on making a homemade warming box? The most common used by beekeepers from sideline on down is a old refrigerator with a light bulb in the bottom and a Walter Kelley thermostat outside. They will keep honey from crystalizing in unheated garages and make 5 gallon pails liquid again. Old refrigerators are free for the asking but need a good seal on the door. Other parts less than $50. If you are interested email me direct and i will walk you through the process. Wood can be a fire hazzard but i have never had a problem or heard of a problem with a old refrigerator. If you have kids you might child proof the fridge. > > I've read that commercial beekeepers have a "warm room" that they put > their supers in before extracting. Bringing supers of honey up in temperature takes time and is best done by heat from below supers . I was thinking of putting 1 or 2 empty deeps on the bottom > with a lightbulb or lamp inside and the supers on top, all covered. This would probabby work but could be a fire hazzard so i wouldn't leave unattended. Little woman won't let you use the kitchen? Most won't! Most guys are of the mind "why make a mess in *your* garage" . Use the little womans kitchen and *presto* mess will be cleaned up for sure. She will even give you a few tips on extracting without spills! Good luck and welcome back to the world of beekeeping! Sincerely, Bob Harrison > > Chris Ignasiak of Avon, Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:50:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob Harrison Subject: refrigerator warming box Hello All, Do to the number of direct email i will post a simple converting method. Those beekeepers with electrical knowledge can go to the hardware store and come up with basically the same thing as Kelleys heat limit control BUT the bulb part is hard to beat. parts: one old refrigerator with good seal on door one heat limit control -cat. no. 250 page 50 of the 2000 Walter Kelley catalog- toll free 1-800-233-2899 one metal light fixture box one ceramic single bulb light fixture about 7 foot appliance wire and a 110 wall plug(or from old frige) about eight sheet metal screws to hold limit control and light fixture box DON'T pay for a defective refrigerator! Appliance stores have to pay extra at the dump to dispose of those. Our local appliance store had about ten to choose from last i looked. All have got freon removed and usually motors or compressors missing. 1.cut the old refrigerator cord off. This can be reused (if in good condition) 2.Remove any plastic tray ect. in refrigerator lower part. These can be put in later if positive the heat from bulb will not melt them 3. drill a half inch hole for wire for light fixture in location you want light. Usually bottom on the side. 3. mount metal light fixture box at bottom part of refigerator over the drilled hole with Four sheet metal screws. 4 mount the limit control outside. I mount these up high but does take longer wire. 4 sheet metal screws to mount box. Now you should have a metal fixture mounted in frige bottom with hole and a heat control mounted on the same side outside. The Kelley heat control is very heavy duty. Designed to run a 1500 watt space heater. You are only going to run a light bulb. If you are electrical minded you can take the immersion heater off a Kelley immersion heater and use it instead of a Kelley heat limit control. 5.Take your old refrigerator cord(or new cord and plug) and slide through the drilled hole (3/8 to 1/2 inch) of the lower light metal box. leaving the plug on the outside. This cord will plug into the *female* plug from heat limit control. Hook the two wires to the back of the ceramic light fixture and the green wire to the green ground terminal. Mount the ceramic fixture to the metal box with the two screws provided with fixture. Screw in light bulb and lower part done! 6.Drill a 1/2 inch hole for the bulb to slide in to run the temperature control. I put these about mid way of the refrigerator. 7. tape around holes to conserve heat. Plug in heat limit control and set desired temperature. Light should come on and off with higher and lower settings. It takes me about 15 minutes to convert one of these refrigerators over. Allow about a hour and go carefully. In your garage they fit in nicely. Try to find a attractive refirgerator as there are plenty free for the asking. You might need to add a drop cord to reach your garage wall plug in but the drop cord need be only heavy enough to run a single light bulb. I have got two of these converted refrigerators myself and love them. A valuable piece of beekeeping equipment. Stick those crystalized jars of honey or crystalized 5 gallon pails in (or supers to be heated on a very small scale) and simply set the control like you would the furnace on your house. 120 degrees is a good temp for 5 gal. pails. 80 degrees works well for those jars of honey which crystalize fast in a unheated garage this time of year. Walter Kelley lists the heat limit control at $38 plus shipping (i bought my last about 10 years ago and still works great) so the price has went up but they are a quality piece of equipment. i have tried to show a very simply way to convert a refrigerator over for the beekeeper not electrically inclined. These refrigerators are safe. Will not cook your honey and maintain accurate temperatures. Gary Reynolds the owner of Rainbow Honey farm in Concordia,Kansas uses about ten of these converted refrigerators to store all his store route honey. Then he doesn't have to heat his honey house when not in use. Much cheaper to run 600 watts of light bulbs than a large furnace. Remember honey crystalizes best at 57 degress. Average temperature of most unheated garages and basements! Sincerely, Bob Harrison ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:16:39 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adony Melathopoulos Subject: big impact science Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Wow! We have an observation hive. This afternoon they finished off a round of syrup in the boardman feeder. I replenished the syrup and within a minute many workers began to Nasanov in the direction of the feeder. A minute more and a half dozen workers began to round dance. It was remarkable! Often when I am talking to kids I scramble for BIG IMPACT demonstrations to catch their attention. I am thinking that a demonstration, where a description of Nasnov pheromone and round dancing is given, and then a feeder is put into place, and the kids witness the dramatic change in behavior would leave a lasting impression. Now, I just have to repeat it on cue. I guess the trick will be to have many bees ready and waiting for feed to have them react so dramatically. Anybody try this on a regular basis before? Regards Adony