Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0101A" Folder: /export/sunsite/users/adamf/mailbox 153399 From MAILER-DAEMON Sun Jan 14 07:55:37 2001 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by luna.oit.unc.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id HAA05182 for ; Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:55:36 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id HAA00264 for ; Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:58:32 -0500 (EST) Message-Id: <200101141258.HAA00264@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 07:58:30 -0500 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0012E" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Status: RO Content-Length: 36548 Lines: 777 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 01:06:29 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Almond Subject: Honey prices MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello, I am interested in selling honey to local stores. I also sell from my home. I am selling bears, pints and quarts for $3,$4 and $6, what prices should I ask for from the retailer? Thank you Michael ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 09:32:37 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Housel Subject: Re: Honey prices MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Fund raising programs getting $6.00 for a 1 pound container and $12 for a 4 pounder. I use a special label for them with the fundraiser program. My profit is less but I sell all the honey at one time. The program is not just for the one sale it maintains the customer contact address for future sales. Education of the sales team is part of the program in that Pure Natural Local Honey and the uses for honey. I miss my customers, times at the farmer markets in the rain, and store dust on the jars. I got $1.50 of the 6.00 (the next sales will be 1.75) for a Glass container with a special label this year. If you are going to do this email me for a special poem from my daughter to put on the label. Will give a copywriter release to fundraiser for Local Honey only. Orlandobee@AOL.com (Michael Housel) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 10:17:57 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Evaluating Beekeeping Help MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I recently began a project to list the skills and experience levels we seek when hiring beekeeping help, and to try to establish some linkage between these prerequisites and the pay scale to be expected -- both at time of hiring and as the help becomes more qualified over time. The project is based -- along with most of my writing these days -- at my diary pages at http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/. This list of qualities should be interesting to anyone who keeps bees or is considering doing so, as well as those who hire help or are considering hiring on as beekeeping help. The direct link to the current copy of my list is http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/Evaluate.htm I will be working on it over time and hope to get it some kind of official status when complete. I'm hoping that others will jump in and help out with serious suggestions, (and maybe, inevitably, some less than serious suggestions). Write direct to allend@internode.net unless you think your contribution is either so excellent -- or so funny -- that it should go onto BEE-L. To give some background, here's a quote from a recent diary page. " ...I discovered something quite fascinating relating to my current employee evaluation project. An HRDC kiosk that was set up to assist with job searches and I tried searching under 'beekeeper'. There was no such designation and the machine referred me to general farm labour. No wonder we have problems finding new help and maintaining a pool of skilled workers" No one realises that this is as much a trade as 'mechanic'"... allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2000 22:25:45 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Paul Cherubini Subject: Re: brief assessment of fluvalinate MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Robert Mann wrote: > I have examined the 1996 Extoxnet bulletin on > toxicology of fluvalinate (the generic name for the active ingredient of > Apistan®, Mavrik™ Severeal wise beeks have outlined the real world > of 'active ingredient' bought cheaper and then administered by > home-made dispensers. Needless to say the old line applies 'OK > only if used according to label', and I would strongly discourage > expts with novel routes, except with expert advice. The practical reality is that some beekeepers have been quietly and discretely using the cheaper Mavrik formulation of fluvalinate successfully for more than 10 years here in the USA. If it gave them serious problems they would not still be using it. > But my dozen years on the Toxic Substances Board taught me > to distrust such claims by the chemical industry. . > The chemical industry is, as an historical tendency, a refuge for > crooks. Therefore, I for one disbelieve that fluvalinate has been > properly tested or that the summarised claims are reliable. I think we have a double standard here. If private industry - say a giant like Bayer engages in telling only half truths and exaggerations in regard to the safety of an insecticide, the company is freely and publicly labeled dishonest, crooked and corrupt. Now consider what happens when the academic community engages in half truths and wild exaggerations. Consider the case of the best know ecologist in the USA: Dr. Paul R. Ehrlich of Stanford University in California. In The Population Bomb (1968; revised,1971), and in subsequent books Ehrlich predicted: "The battle to feed all of humanity is over. In the 1970s and 1980s hundreds of millions of people will starve to death in spite of any crash programs embarked upon now. . America's vast agricultural surpluses are gone." "a minimum of ten million people, most of them children, will starve to death during each year of the 1970s. But this is a mere handful compared to the numbers that will be starving before the end of the century" - America in 1984 would havefood shortages so severe that steak would be $12 a pound, the U.S. unemployment rate would be 27 percent, and India would be an anarchy because of nationwide food riots. "Smog disasters" in 1973 might kill 200,000 people in New York and Los Angeles." "I would take even money that England will not exist in the year 2000." "Before 1985, mankind will enter a genuine age of scarcity . in which the accessible supplies of 13 key minerals will be facing depletion." Have Ehrlich's preposterous predictions hurt his reputation? Far from it - they've made him both celebrated and rich. In 1993 Dr. Peter Raven, Director of the Missouri Botanical Garden presented Ehrlich with the The World Ecology Award In 1990 Ehrlich published a sequel to "Bomb" called "The Population Explosion,"and received the MacArthur Foundation's famous "genius award" with a $345,000 check, and split a Swedish Royal Academy of Science prize worth $120,000. Paul Cherubini ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 11:06:06 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: From the Moderators MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As moderators, occasionally we receive a message about which we have mixed thoughts and feelings. Perhaps we are doubtful of the truth behind the article, dislike the slant, or feel that it may gratuitously insult a group or a person and has potential to provoke flames. Nevertheless, we are not censors and our mandate as moderators is simply to prevent the obvious abuses that are listed at http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L, not to promote or inhibit the expression of any particular point of view, provided that articles submitted relate to our topic (bees and beekeeping) and are not redundant. The moderators assume no responsibility for the quality or veracity of the material on BEE-L. We trust that our members will examine any and all posts carefully for whatever good material they contain, test the truthfulness of the statements and respond in the most polite and constructive manner they can, or simply delete and move on... allen ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 17:49:19 -0500 Reply-To: Honeybees@inorbit.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Honey prices In-Reply-To: <200012291153.GAA21297@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Michael, In the Boston, Massachusetts area I've been getting $2.75 per one LB jar in 24 count cases. Where You live makes a difference. A couple of years ago a new supermarket opened near Me, the owner wasn't sure if local honey would sell, so I asked Him to put it on special and I sold Him a couple of cases at $2.00 per jar. He never had to marked the price down, He didn't have to. The honey had the name of the town on the label, He was selling a case a week. Don't sell Your honey too cheaply, local honey is a special product that practically sells itself. Garry Libby Attleboro, Massachusetts, USA 41.56 N 71.17 W ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 19:43:57 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Pyramid Subject: Re: gift of bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I, too, have donated to Heifer Project with the assumption that it would give a beehive to someone somewhere. With subsequent reading of all the information they sent; I no longer believe it works that way. I believe all donations go into the same pot which is then doled out for agricultural related projects in accordance with whatever plans they make. Money coming in is not earmarked for specific projects such as beekeeping. My questions to them on this were unanswered. I think this is a worthwhile charity in any case and I would gladly resume donating if I knew it went specifically to beekeeping. Burns ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 08:24:23 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "George J. Biles" Subject: Re: Honey prices Michael et. al, I live in Chester Co. PA, just west of Phila. I sell local honey, wholesale only, full cases only. Dealer cost for 1# case of 12 delivered: $32.40 ($2.70/pound). It's a premium product: don't give it away! George ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 12:32:26 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Morris Subject: Overwintering in the South MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ladies and Gentleman, I know that in the northern states, that over wintering take a tad more preparation than it does down south. Tar paper, extra stores, etc., seem to be the major prep. In the South where winters are "milder," many of these preparations are not necessary. Now this winter seems to be an exception so far. Im from the Atlanta area, normally this time of year the lows are in the mid 30's with highs sometimes in the low to mid 50's. For the past three years we have had maybe two dozen nights below freezing-thats why the fire ant population is high. However this year things are different already, with predictions of a long, cold, wet winter. Since Thanksgiving we have had 50% of the days in the low to mid 40's and even lower. For example this weekends weather will be teens at night and 30's during the day. Now I know this is not the sub zero weather of say Wisconsin, but for the deeper south that's chilly. Now for the question, Is the temperature such that I should consider extra measures not normally associated with overwintering in Ga?? Thanks for all the great info I get from this group. TIM MORRIS ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 15:30:48 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: Overwintering in the South In-Reply-To: <200012302018.PAA26011@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > ...Im from the Atlanta area, normally this time of year the lows are in > the mid 30's with highs sometimes in the low to mid 50's. For the past three > years we have had maybe two dozen nights below freezing... Since > Thanksgiving we have had 50% of the days in the low to mid 40's and > even lower... > Now for the question, Is the temperature such that I should consider extra > measures not normally associated with overwintering in Ga?? Your temperatures sound pretty close to the ideal conditions that northern beekeepers try to emulate when wintering bees indoors -- except for the fluctuations. A constant temperature a little above freezing is considered to provide the optimal compromise for good survival and feed consumption. Bees wintered in buildings generally have wide open entrances and no insulation. Wintering buildings are normally quite dry and that is good. In your area, outdoors, you should be concerned mostly about excess moisture condensing in the hive and therefore slant the hive forward a bit. Moderate upper ventilation as described here on BEE-L many times is indicated as well. Search for 'ventilation' at http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L/ and choose whichever technique seems to you have the most persuasive arguments, since there is quite a bit of controversy. Personally, I think that you want just enough to ensure the hive is reasonably dry. A little condensation in the hive on a cold day is not necessarily a bad thing, but water dripping and a damp floor is not good. If you think it looks comfortable in there, then it likely is. If you want to insulate at all, a slab of Styrofoam on top of the lid is about all you'll want. It can help with brood rearing and temper weather changes. Full sun from sunup to sundown is good at this time of year, even in the south. Shelter from the prevailing winds is also very beneficial. allen ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 18:36:51 -0500 Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: michael palmer Subject: Re: Overwintering in the South MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I think the most important things would be to insulate the inner cover, and have an upper entrance. Moisture will be your biggest problem. Insulating the inner cover will prevent condensation above the cluster. You can use hay or straw, or dry leaves. Use an empty super to hold it. Close the inner cover's bee escape hole with a square of tar paper or duct tape. This will keep the insulation dry. Don't use fiberglass insulation! I use a 16x20 inch piece of styrofoam, but maybe you don't want to invest money in a once in a while situation. Tim Morris wrote: > Now for the question, Is the temperature such that I should consider extra > measures not normally associated with overwintering in Ga?? > > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 18:48:43 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "David L. Green" Subject: Re: Overwintering in the South MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 12/30/00 6:09:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes: << In your area, outdoors, you should be concerned mostly about excess moisture condensing in the hive and therefore slant the hive forward a bit.>> As one who has wintered in north and south, Allen has some good points, which I'd like to expand a bit. Moisture becomes more of a problem as it is colder. It is not unusual for many southern beekeepers to feed syrup at any time in the winter. But this gives more water for the bees to dispose of. I would highly recommend feeding only DRY sugar, in a feeder rim, during these cold spells. This not only does not add moisture, but helps sop up condensation. Syrup is OK later when it warms up a bit. If the hives are heavy, I wouldn't disturb them to feen until the first of February, as they aren't going to really consume much until brood rearing starts. I often seen new brood around here in January, but don't expect it this year unless the weather makes a dramatic change. << If you want to insulate at all, a slab of Styrofoam on top of the lid is about all you'll want. It can help with brood rearing and temper weather changes.>> Some pine straw in a feeder rim would have the same effect without the cost. I haven't really felt the need for any insulation for good hives. Weak hives, I usually combine with a good one, but I have wintered over nucs with young queens placed in side to side contact with the entrances in opposite directions. It must help, as the cluster always favors the inner side. Also weak hives can be wintered on a screen over strong ones, but make sure the entrance faces opposite, as drift from the strong hive will tend upwards and can actually kill the strong one below. <> Even in a mild winter, wind protection is critical, even in the South. I've seen hives go downhill badly during a windy March, when the temperatures aren't actually that bad. One additional thing. Cold makes the bees more vulnerable to mouse damage, so mouse guards become more important. If they also reduce entrances, it would be good, because the first early warm weather will often stimulate robbing. I feel quite good about the cold this year. It hasn't really been that bad, no serious storms have hit us here in SC. The cold should reduce some pests next season, and the bees and perennial plants are pretty well "hardened off" at this time of year. I think a mild winter with some March storms is a lot worse for both bees, hardwood forage plants, and fruit trees. The only thing it's hard on is ME, which wasn't true when I was younger. I spent many years pruning apple orchards and building houses in lots colder weather than this. But old injuries really throb when they get cold. Nowadays, when I awake, if it doesn't hurt somewhere, I check my pulse... Dave Green The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 08:29:33 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Brenchley Subject: Exceptional Weather and Rodents We've been experiencing a few days of extreme weather (by our standards) here in Birmingham UK. For the last few years we have had very few frosts, but two nights ago the thermometer at my site registered a minimum of 20 Fahrenheit, with a couple of inches of powdery snow. Something had made an unsuccessful attempt to gnaw its way in through my hive entrance. It was definitely a rodent; going by the height of the hive, it was probably a grey squirrel, though there's just a possibility it could have been a very large rat. I haven't been able to check again due to work and weather(it's currently snowing hard). Has anybody else experienced this? Regards, Robert Brenchley RSBrenchley@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 08:52:49 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mark G Spagnolo Subject: Winter progress MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Good morning from Minnesota! I have often read the comments that cold weather does not kill bees. = Other factors related to wintering such as lack of adequate feed, mites, = queen status and disease are the real killers. I have never been too = sure of this, but I think I am now a believer! You see, the month of December has been very cold here. I believe = December 2000 was the second coldest December on record in Minneapolis, = which is 200 miles south of here and considerably warmer! We have had = below zero (F) temperatures every morning since the end of November. = Many mornings have been -20 F or colder! At one point the temperature = did not rise above zero for 94 straight hours. =20 This weather has been a true test for the 35 hives I have wintering as = singles in an unheated shed. On November 30th I checked the weight on = several of them and quickly determined if each hive was alive. I = returned yesterday, after a full month of painfully cold weather, and = the result was amazing. Not only were they all still alive, but the = scale hives had lost very little weight! Weight losses were in the five = to eight pound range. also, the bees manage to keep the temperature in the shed about 30 = degrees warmer than the outside temperture. As an example, when I = looked in on them yesterday the outside temperature was -7 F, and the = inside temperature was 20 F. I am not sure how they manage this, but it = sure felt good to be warm! The outside temperature has not been 20 F = here for almost a month. I realize that food consumption will increase dramatically as soon as = brood rearing begins. i am hoping that I can delay this by keeping the = shed as dark as possible. The first natural pollen will be available = here until the willows bloom around April 15. I also have plans to place candy boards on top of each single beging = sometime next week. These are just my comments on by wintering observations here in the cold = North. Any suggestions or advise would be greatly appreciated. Stay warm and think Spring, Mark in Minnesota ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 10:37:49 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: Winter progress In-Reply-To: <200012311640.LAA10417@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >I have often read the comments that cold weather does not kill bees. >Other factors related to wintering such as lack of adequate feed, mites, >queen status and disease are the real killers. I have never been too >sure of this, but I think I am now a believer! The late Ed Southwick did controlled experiments with whole colonies of bees placed in environmental chambers. With adequate numbers of bees and food, they could survive periods of -80 degree C, well over 100 below F. Typically, he would chill the colonies down for 24-48 hrs before starting his measurements of their metabolic functioning. So we know they were alive. The only reason for the -80 limit was that was as cold as his chamber could go. As a footnote, they needed lots of food at this temperature. I once had a Postdoc who spent a couple of weeks building an elaborate model of how bees were removed from an overwintering population. It looked very impressive - on some days only a few bees died, on others, they dropped in bunches. Curious as to how he developed this scheme, I asked and he responded that he modeled die-off as a function of temperature. Wrong! Doesn't work that way. Since the post-doc was a bit stubborn, I had to pull out Ed's work to set him straight. Amazing animals. Jerry P.S. We also know that tracheal mites can survive periods of up to several days in a frozen dead host at -20 C! We did the tests some years back. Tough little beasties. They didn't do so well when the dead hosts rotted with no live hosts to move to. So, bad news, you can't chill off Tracheal Mites, good news, if all your bees die, so will the mites as soon as it warms up. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 12:34:44 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: tomas mozer Subject: Re: Researchers are using honeybees to spread a natural fungicide Comments: cc: crpost@TELKOMSA.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit not exactly what you were looking for but perhaps of interest is this mention in the "Varroa research at IACR-Rothamsted:progress and prospects" webpage at http://www.iacr.bbsrc.ac.uk/res/depts/entnem/research/briangrp/varnorm/tvarnorm.html ...This has raised the question of using biological control methods, but unfortunately no naturally occurring pests or pathogens specific to V. jacobsoni have so far been identified. Mites are however, known to be susceptible to a range of fungi and bacteria. For many years, both IACR-Rothamsted and Horticulture Research International, Wellesbourne (formerly the National Vegetable Research Station and the AFRC Institute of Horticultural Research) have been experimenting with fungi and bacteria for the biological control of insect pests. For example, one current project at IACR-Rothamsted involves the use of honey bees to transport spores of the fungus Metarhizium anisopliae to oilseed rape flowers to control pollen beetles(9)... the referenced article can be located at the carfax publishing webpage http://alidoro.catchword.com/vl=-10732024/cl=2/nw=1/rpsv/cgi-bin/cgi?ini=carfax&body=linker&reqidx=/catchword/carfax/13600478/v8n4/s7/p533 and the following summary is provided: Title: Honey-bee-mediated Infection of Pollen Beetle (Meligethes aeneus Fab.) by the Insect-pathogenic Fungus, Metarhizium anisopliae Author(s): T. M. Butt; N. L. Carreck; L. Ibrahim; I. H. Williams Source: Biocontrol Science and Technology Volume: 8 Number: 4 Page: 533 -- 538 Publisher: Taylor and Francis Ltd Abstract: Pollen beetles (Meligethes aeneus) are pests that feed and oviposit in the buds and flowers of oilseed rape. Honey-bees foraging from a hive fitted with an inoculum dispenser at the entrance effectively delivered dry conidia of the entomogenous fungus, Metarhizium anisopliae , to the flowers of oilseed rape in caged field plots. In both winter- and spring-sown rape experiments, a greater mortality of pollen beetles occurred in treated plots than in control plots. The mortality (61% on winter rape, 100% on spring rape) was greatest during peak flowering, when the feeding activity of both bees and beetles from the flowers was maximal, providing optimal conditions for inoculum dissemination and infection. Conidial sporulation occurred on a significant proportion of the dead pollen beetles. There was no evidence of any adverse effect on the honey-bee colonies. ...also coincidentally, this pollen beetle bears an uncanny resemblance to aethina tumida...see images at the inra webpage http://www.inra.fr/Internet/Produits/HYPPZ/RAVAGEUR/6melaen.htm#ima ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 13:00:32 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: tomas mozer Subject: Re: a novice from the Philippines... Comments: cc: abh@EDSAMAIL.COM.PH Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit see tom carroll's website at http://www.apiconsult.com/ ..."For information, advice and training on all aspects of sustainable beekeeping in Africa"...go for it and good luck! ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:44:03 -0600 Reply-To: webmaster@good-rich.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: goodrich Subject: Re: labels In-Reply-To: <200012072023.PAA28126@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ted Wrote: I have been printing my own comb honey labels on a DeskJet printer but have been unable to find any transparent stock to print them on. I know such stock exists because I've seen it on other product labels. I think it would bee sharp to look through the label at comb honey. I can buy label paper marked "clear" which is made by Avery but the product is actually opaque. Does anyone know where I can get transparent paper I can print on? Ted, I have printing all of our specialty labels on an inkjet for years. We make custom labels for specialty shops, advertisements, etc. See some of them at http://www.good-rich.com/Products/Babies/babies.htm . I found a great label stock company that will provide short runs of stock cut to your specs. They also carry almost any type of stack you can imagine, including clear. I use a photo quality glossy paper for our custom bears. Good Luck Jake Ameel Good-Rich Apiaries www.good-rich.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 15:02:07 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jerry Ameel Subject: Re: labels In-Reply-To: <200012072023.PAA28126@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ted, I neglected to include the label stock site I use. Go to: www.rippedsheets.com Good Luck (again) Jake Ameel Good-Rich Apiaries www.good-rich.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 13:38:31 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: darn@FREENET.EDMONTON.AB.CA Subject: Re: Winter progress In-Reply-To: <200012311852.NAA12060@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Sun, 31 Dec 2000, Jerry J Bromenshenk wrote: > > P.S. We also know that tracheal mites can survive periods of up to several > days in a frozen dead host at -20 C! We did the tests some years back. > Tough little beasties. They didn't do so well when the dead hosts rotted > with no live hosts to move to. So, bad news, you can't chill off Tracheal > Mites, good news, if all your bees die, so will the mites as soon as it > warms up. Hi Jerry: How do varroa mites do when they are subjected to freezing? Best regards, Donald Aitken Edmonton Alberta Canada ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 22:32:41 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: peter dillon Subject: Re: Exceptional Weather and Rodents MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Robert, We have Badgers, and Wild Boar that attack hives fairly frequently. Seeing that you are in Birmingham - I suggest that it is the latter that is causing the problem. Anywhere else in England I would have put it down to big mice - apart from S.W England where there are vicious sheep that have developed a taste for honey. Don't collect supers during the night as they tend to go around in groups. If the marks on the hives are round shaped then get in contact directly with MAFF as you might have a case of acute Woodpecker holes. Hope this helps Yours Peter ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 17:06:43 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "john f. mesinger" Subject: Re: Winter progress In-Reply-To: <200012311640.LAA10417@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I believe you are correct. Last year I picked a "dead bee" out of the snow and gave it to a grandson. He treasured it in his hot little hand as we walked - until it stung him. This year for the past 6 weeks of freezing nights, some below 10 degrees, I have seen two flies on bathroom screens between the screens and the windows. After the sun warms them up, they move. The room temperature is below 60 degrees at night and feels much colder at the screens. John F. Mesinger jfm6f@unix.mail.virginia.edu