From MAILER-DAEMON@luna.metalab.unc.edu Sun May 20 09:13:46 2001 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by luna.metalab.unc.edu (8.11.0/8.11.0) with ESMTP id f4KDDks18797 for ; Sun, 20 May 2001 09:13:46 -0400 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.11.2/8.11.2) with ESMTP id f4KDDhJ12727 for ; Sun, 20 May 2001 09:13:43 -0400 (EDT) Message-Id: <200105201313.f4KDDhJ12727@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 09:13:39 -0400 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0104A" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Content-Length: 82123 Lines: 1840 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 16:19:25 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Camille Mueller Subject: Ants Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Hi, last year I relocated 2 hives of bees to my parent's house in Southwest Georgia (Faceville, Ga). I came down this weekend and checked on them. To my surprise, they are full of ants. They are full of bees too but the ants are on the top of the top screens. There were plenty of what I think is ant eggs too. My dad says they are wood ants. 1 hive had so many ants of it that I could not even get into the super without getting ants all over me. Any suggestions of how to get rid of the ants without harming the bees or is this just a lost cause? Thanks! Camille Mueller Huntsville, Al _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 21:28:00 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: George H Lyke Subject: Nosema MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Has anybody experience colonies infected with nosema in the north east = in the last several years, and how did you handle it? I had several = colonies die this year of nosema. I have never feed fumidil, but I'm = now feeding fumidil too the surviving colonies. Can I introduce new = colonies to the infected equipment this spring and feed them fumidil = without disinfecting the contaminated equipment and still have = productive colonies? Any advice would be appreciated Thanks.=20 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:42:11 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "David L. Green" Subject: If you haven't heard young queens piping....listen here. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://kutikshoney.com/nucs/piping.htm Dave SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 21:37:32 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Thomas W. Hoyt" Subject: Electric Wire Embedder I bought one of those electric things - that heats the horizontal wire to embed it into the foundation. Can't quite figure out how long to leave the thing heating. Seems like it either (1) melts thru the whole foundation, or (2) doesn't get into the wax all the way thru. Sometimes it seems to embed - but then the wax is melted to the board underneath - and it all pulls apart when I left the frame. Anybody with any advise or experience to share? Rev. Thomas W. Hoyt Holy Cross Lutheran Church Warda, TX 78960 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 08:20:29 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "C.R. Crowell" Subject: Re: Electric Wire Embedder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I use one of these, although a lot of beekeepers use pre-wired foundation and believe this procedure is not necessary. One advantage is that the horizontal wires "locate" the foundation closer to the center of the frame, resulting in more uniform comb. I watch to see the wire melts the wax enough to "stick" to the surface, then I release the switch. Sometimes the wire is entirely embedded, sometimes just "tacked" to the surface. After releasing the switch, I sometimes use the embedding tool's brass ends to push the already warm wire down a bit into the wax, to get it embedded more fully. By the way, I did not like the elementary "switch" on the embedder, which was basically a soft brass strip that acted like a spring when pushed against a cadmium plated screw to close the circuit. I ripped it out and replaced it with a levered micro-switch that I got from Radio Shack for a buck or two. The brass strip develops some pitting when it is in use, and sometimes doesn't close the circuit when held down, which I found annoying. The microswitch, with silver plated contacts, works much better. C. Crowell Hightstown, NJ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 08:30:06 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rick Green Subject: Re: Electric Wire Embedder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I used one for two years with the same unpredictable results. I finally sold it and bought a spur embedder that works fine as long as you have a firm surface beneath the wax sheet you are embedding. Since then I have found an even better solution. Plastic frames! Contact me at: Rick Green 8 Hickory Grove Lane Ballston Lake, NY 12019 (518) 384-2539 Gothoney@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 08:40:21 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "David L. Green" Subject: If You Do Pollination Service MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I will be making a report shortly to northern US, Canadian and European fruit growers on the readiness of the pollination service industry this year, and would appreciate reports from pollinators. How are your bees? Winter losses? Is your season running early, late or normal? Do you anticipate the supply in your area to be adequate or short? Are prices stable or rising? Are you seasonally migrating or do you stay within your region? There have been a number of new additions to the pollinator list in the past few weeks. If you are not listed, the basic listing is free. Site statistics show that growers are checking these lists.... Paid ads will soon be available as well, so that you can tell the unique features of your service; contact me if you are interested. It will be much cheaper than most other forms of advertisements. (It isn't to make a profit, it's to cover some of the costs of the page.) I am especially pleased to see a growing number of listings from the southern hemisphere. I will be making an effort later this year, in anticipation of your spring, to get the list before growers in your area. Please remember to change the address for personal responses, so they aren't sent to the entire Bee List Dave Green SC USA The Pollination Home Page: A portal site for pollination information and images. http://pollinator.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 08:52:09 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: wiring foundation Tom says "Sometimes it seems to embed - but then the wax is melted to the board underneath - and it all pulls apart when I left the frame." Tom, I am not certain which embedded you have and that may make a difference. My experience is with the embedder made by Kelley. If the wire is taut, the current need only be applied momentarily to embed the wax. Longer than 2 seconds and the wire will melt through. It often is not feasible to get the wire embedded across the he entire width of the frame. However, as long as it is 75% or so embedded the bees will work it just fine. In fact, I know one guy who puts the frames in without embedding the wire and the bees still draw it out just fine. Embedding may do more for the beekeeper than for the bees! Hope this helps Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner of Ross Rounds, manufacturer of comb honey equipment for beekeepers and Sundance pollen traps. http://www.rossrounds.com Lloyd@rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 09:31:32 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "David L. Green" Subject: Re: wiring foundation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/2/01 8:53:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, lloydspear@MSN.COM writes: << It often is not feasible to get the wire embedded across the he entire width of the frame. However, as long as it is 75% or so embedded the bees will work it just fine. In fact, I know one guy who puts the frames in without embedding the wire and the bees still draw it out just fine. Embedding may do more for the beekeeper than for the bees! >> It always struck me as odd that bees would seem to ignore and work around horizontal wires, but once a vertical wire is exposed, they keep chewing it away. I often snip out vertical wires that are exposed in old combs, as it seems to help get them to fill in the gap, rather than expanding it. Dave Green The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:19:49 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: stimey Subject: embedding MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have never tried to wire frames, instead I use 10 or 12 pound = monofiliment fish line. I tie one end to itself after passing through = the=20 upper hole straight to the opposite side then thread through the bottom = hole again going to the opposite side. I go from there diagonally to the = top across to the opposite, then diagonally down to the opposite corner. = I then stretch the line taut and tie off. Install foundation and repeat = on the front of the new foundation. This may seem labor intensive but = goes rather quickly once you've done a couple. I've used this method for brood comb and shallow = extracting frames. The bees don't seem to mind and draw nice comb that = is more durable. Only once have they not and that was because I was = tring to use up old foundation. They removed most of the foundation and = drew comb out on the pieces that were left on the frame and on the fish = line . Which turned out to be nice comb anyway. Also besides being = available almost anywhere fish line is easy to remove and won't damage = your tools when you remove old comb from the frames. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 09:40:20 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Keim Subject: Cardboard entrance reducers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Since I like to refrain from marring the surface of my woodware as much as possible, and because I am cheap, I am thinking about using cardboard, folded several times, leaving an inch or so opening in the entrance of my nucs as entrance reducers. Will the average strength of a 3 frame nuc be sufficient to defend the full entrance by the time the cardboard is chewed through? John Keim Fairview, Kansas ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 11:04:13 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mea McNeil Subject: Re: If you haven't heard young queens piping....listen here. In-Reply-To: <200104020704.DAA03921@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 02:42 PM 4/1/01 -0400, you wrote: >http://kutikshoney.com/nucs/piping.htm >Dave SC USA >The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com Fascinating. Is this recording a repeating loop, or is there a distinct pattern: long, rising cry; seven short calls long, rising cry; seven short calls three short calls repeat pattern (I listened to 5 repetitions of the same pattern) What an eerie call. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:20:30 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Mann Subject: Re: Electric Wire Embedder In-Reply-To: <200104021058.GAA06758@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 9:37 PM -0500 01/3/31, Thomas W. Hoyt wrote: >I bought one of those electric things - that heats the horizontal wire to >embed it into the foundation. > >Can't quite figure out how long to leave the thing heating. Seems like it >either (1) melts thru the whole foundation, or (2) doesn't get into the wax >all the way thru. The cheapest & best source of heat I know of for this purpose is a battery-charger; on the 6V setting, its rate of heating of the (nichrome?) wire gives you a few seconds as the foundation sheet sinks onto the wire. It sounds to me as if the heater Thomas bought heats too fast. I can't agree that it's immaterial whether the wire gets embedded. At least the sort of wire sold here is somewhat avoided by the bees as they draw out comb. It is desirable to surround the wire by wax as much as reasonably possible. Also of course the purpose of the wire - to make the comb strong enough to withstand centrifugation - will be undermined if too much of the wire isn't embedded. R - Robt Mann consultant ecologist P O Box 28878 Remuera, Auckland 1005, New Zealand (9) 524 2949 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 15:31:38 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: FW: Catch The Buzz Article (How a Varroa parts its hair may be on e of the answers in control.) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" -----Original Message----- From: kim@airoot.com [mailto:kim@airoot.com] Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 3:21 PM To: undisclosed-recipients Subject: Catch The Buzz Article How a Varroa parts its hair may be one of the answers in control. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Varroa Discoveries! A state-of-the-art scanning electron microscope mounting technique that uses low temperature (LT-SEM) may help researchers better understand how parasitic mites like Varroa interact with their bee hosts. Varroa mites feed on the blood of adult and developing young bees. Parasitized bees may have deformed wings and abdomens and a shorter life span than their unparasitized hivemates. Because the LT-SEM freezes and captures the Varroa mites on bees at the moment they are parasitizing them, a team of ARS scientists has discovered some intriguing behavioral and morphological patterns. The technique has shown that Varroa mites may be camouflaging themselves by aligning their setae (their tiny hairs) with the hairs on the bee's body. By doing this, they may escape detection when the bee grooms itself or is groomed by another. If this hypothesis is correct, it may be possible to breed bees that more easily detect mites and aid their removal from their bodies. LT-SEM technology prov! ides an exciting new tool that will be used to reveal the exact types and behavior of mites. It is already providing valuable new information that could be used to control mites as agricultural pests or to enhance their efficacy as biological control agents. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Kim Flottum Editor, Bee Culture Magazine http://www.airoot.com/beeculture/index.htm For an archive Catch the Buzz postings, visit: http://bee.airoot.com/beeculture/buzz/index.html To unsubscribe to this emailing, simply goto: http://bee.airoot.com/beeculture/buzz/unsubscribe.html * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 15:03:05 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adrian Wenner Subject: A children's book Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, everyone. You might want to buy a book about bees for some child you know (and, no, I don't get a commission!): NED KELLY & THE CITY OF THE BEES, by Thomas Keneally (author of "Schindler's List"), is "a story of how Ned Kelly spent a summer in a bee hive, in the company of120-year-old girl named Nancy Clancy and the bees of Selma's kingdom. So far I have not found this book in any local bookstore or chain, but one can obtain it from the publisher: David R. Godine Box 9103 Lincoln, Massachusetts 01773 (Your local bookstore can probably furnish you an 800 number for that company.) I found this fantasy charming and suitable most likely for children 8 years and older. Adrian Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home phone) 967 Garcia Road (805) 893-8062 (UCSB FAX) Santa Barbara, CA 93106 [http://www.beesource.com/pov/wenner/index.htm] ******************************************************************** * * "The production of scientific knowledge is simultaneously * the production of scientific error." * Naomi Aronson, 1986 * ******************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 23:52:38 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Carol Malcolm Subject: Re: Ants Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Camille, You asked how to get rid of ants in hives. I don't have a suggestion for the existing ants, but here in Texas, fire ants can eat a hive in a day. Beekeepers put the legs of their hive stands in cans of water with a film of salad oil on the top. We don't use motor oil because if it overflows the petroleum can contaminate ground water. Vegetable oil gets broken down (even eaten) in the environment. We also prune overhanging shrubs so branches don't touch the hive, this prevents ants from coming in from the top. Good luck. Carol Carol K. Malcolm dewsnap@worldnet.att.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:40:00 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Nosema MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello, Are you SURE nosema killed your colonies? Nosema weakens colonies but rarely kills them. What makes you think it was nosema? When did you find them dead? What did you observe in the colonies? When is the last time you inspected them to see their condition? What was their condition then? Have you still got some of the dead bees? It is estimated that about 60% of all the colonies in the U. S. have some degree of nosema, particularly those that have been confined for long periods of winter without having 1, 2, or 3 days to make cleansing flights. VERY FEW beekeepers feed Fumidil-B because it generally DOES NOT KILL. I don't take chances, I feed Fumidil-B in late October and early November every year and have for perhaps 30 years, and have never had nosema in my 100+ colonies; and I advise all beekeepers to feed Fumidil-B since a feeding only costs about $2/colony, but most ignore my recommendations. My bees are always alive and ready to work. I am reminded that I can't do very good work or very much work when I have a case of diarrhea, and I figure that "neither can a bee", so they get Fumidil-B every year. Answer some of my questions, and I might be able to help you; but I doubt that nosema killed your colonies. The great majority of the time bees that are sick from something else and hence are weakened by that malady, get a normal touch of nosema and die, not from nosema, but from whatever weakened them first. By the way, what state are you in? George Imirie EAS Certified Master Beekeeper Beginning my 69th year of beekeeping in Maryland Author of George'e PINK PAGES ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 16:59:42 -0700 Reply-To: beekeeper82@yahoo.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Carm Subject: Queen Rearing Instructions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello all, Does anyone have the queen rearing suggestions like the ones in the Ontario Bee Manuel? I would like to start queen rearing this week, but need a memory refresher on how to do it. I did it once last year, but have since forgotten. Any help would be appreciated. Specifically I need the timing more than anything else. In case this makes a difference in the instructions on how to do it, I am located in Sacramento California. Thanks in advance, Carm __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 22:58:19 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Marc Studebaker Subject: Re: Electric Wire Embedder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > The cheapest & best source of heat I know of for this purpose is a >battery-charger; on the 6V setting, its rate of heating of the (nichrome?) >wire gives you a few seconds as the foundation sheet sinks onto the wire. > It sounds to me as if the heater Thomas bought heats too fast I had difficulty controlling the heat of my embedder so I installed a voltage control ahead of the transformer. By reducing the voltage I can get to a setting where the wire is completely embedded in about 3 seconds. this allows me to watch the wire go into the foundation and release the switch before it cuts too deep. I then continue to hold down the embedder for a few seconds to allow the wax to cool before lifting, otherwise the wire sometimes follows the embedder back out of the wax. You could also try a lower voltage transformer. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 23:02:37 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Elizabeth Vogt Subject: "comb" honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Last fall when I removed frames of honey from one of my hives, a couple of the frames (Pierco plastic, undrawn foundation, no wires, in wooden frame) contained drawn comb filled with honey not attachd to the foundation. The bees had drawn a typical comb, but it was as if they ignored the foundation, and created a doubled-sided comb (on each side of the foundation). I simply lifted it off of each side, and cut it into pieces of "comb" honey. It was a treat ! Any guesses why the bees did this ? I'm thinking it had something to do with bee-space and crowding. I wouldn't mind collecting this type of honey again! Sincerely, Elizabeth Vogt Vashon Island, WA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 17:24:35 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Malcolm (Tom) Sanford" Subject: Re: information Comments: cc: "p.picard.adapi" In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Vincent, Thanks for the note. I hope you will pass on my greetings to Pascal. I don't know of any marker that might be put in syrup to do what you want. I am forwarding this message to the Bee-L list for a possible response. Tom Sanford At 03:24 PM 3/30/01 +0200, you wrote: >dear Tom sandford, > >I'm vincent clair, a new technician working for the ADAPI,that you >apparently know well. >Pascal Jourdan and myself are working at the moment on one topic you might >be able to help us with.We are trying to evaluate what proportion of sirup >can be found in honey after feedind a hive.We obviously want to measure and >clearly observe what quantity of sirup bees will remove and store in the >honey chamber.To achieve that goal we want to definite an indicator that >would be introduced in the sirup( fed to bees) and clearly identyfiable in >honey later on.This way we could measure what proportion of sirup is >removed. >would you have any suggestion or knowledge on what indicator we could use >for this experimentation.Any work done on this topic that you could indicate >us would also help us to progress. >looking forward to hearing from you...best regards. > >vincent clair ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 05:25:42 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Electric wire embedder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I use a soldering iron or a spur embedder. Both work fine. Chris ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 05:25:40 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Nosema MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There's no point in feeding fumidil if you don't clean the equipment. Fumidil doesn't kill the spores that will now be everywhere in the hive; it only stops the nosema reproducing in the guts of the bes that have had a dose of fumidil. The recommended fumigant is 80% acetic acid. Better still, put the bees on new foundation in a clean box. Chris ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 07:54:43 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Drutchas Subject: Re: information MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Tom, I believe food coloring in the syrup would do it. I was told that they use to color sugar that was given to beekeepers when it was rationed during the war. It did get into the honey according to this particular beekeeper. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:29:10 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: information In-Reply-To: <200104030651.CAA21860@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" We are trying to evaluate what proportion of sirup >>can be found in honey after feedind a hive.s Vincent, there are a number of ways in which you could do this, but most involve chemicals that you wouldn't want to consume in the honey. You need a marker: That can be mixed well into syrup Will provide an unmistakable signature (doesn't normally occur in the hive) And Can be quantified. Radioisotope labelling has been used, but you generally need permits and you may be talking relatively large amounts if you intend to heavily feed a full size hive. I suppose there are color indicators - after all, I've seen honey range from light amber to dark amber, purplelish, and even emerald green (in the hive), but we haven't tried coloring syrup. With Mike Sigman at Oak Ridge National Lab, we developed some perfluorinated marker compounds (don't occur in nature, very volatile) in cyclodextrin micro- capsules. Placed in a feeder 100 meters from the hive, it showed up in the hive within minutes (detection resolution very good). You probably could use a perdeuterated compounds and look for its signature in the honey. Just be careful to pick a compound that will dissolve or stay in uniform suspension in syrup - one that isn't repellant to bees nor toxic. I suppose you could also use a suspension of microbeads - and plate/count them in the syrup and honey samples. Labor intensive, but doesn't require sophisticated chemical analysis instrumentation. Just some random thoughts - the perfluorinated compounds worked well for us. Jerry Jerry J. Bromenshenk, Ph.D. Director, DOE/EPSCoR & Montana Organization for Research in Energy The University of Montana-Missoula Missoula, MT 59812-1002 E-Mail: jjbmail@selway.umt.edu Tel: 406-243-5648 Fax: 406-243-4184 http://www.umt.edu/biology/more http://www.umt.edu/biology/bees ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 10:31:07 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mea McNeil Subject: Re: A children's book In-Reply-To: <200104030633.CAA21338@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > >NED KELLY & THE CITY OF THE BEES, by Thomas Keneally (author of >"Schindler's List"), is "a story of how Ned Kelly spent a summer in a bee >hive, > > I found this fantasy charming and suitable most likely for children 8 >years and older. > >Adrian M. Wenner >******************************************************************** I have just read this Australian children's book, courtesy of Dr. Wenner, and recommend it also. Some sections are very charming, and overall it gives a much better feeling for the life of bees of any children's book I've seen. The pen and ink illustrations are superb. Other story books are: The Magic School Bus Inside a Beehive by Cole, Gran's Bees, by Thompson. A delightful classic is The Bee Man of Orn by Stockton (illustrated by Maurice Sendak). A story book replete with egregious errors is R.L. Stine's Goosebumps: Why I'm Afraid of Bees. Among the numerous scientific bee books for children my favorite is The Fascinating World of Bees by Julivert (Barron's). ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 22:57:28 +0200 Reply-To: Ahlert Schmidt Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ahlert Schmidt Subject: Re: information In-Reply-To: <9adj2u.3vv5lsn.1@sebastian.fqdn.genetzt.de> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi to the Bee-List. The question regarding a good marker is quite simple, however on needs an instrument capable of detecting C13, ie a mass spectrometer availabel in universities with a good chemistry department. The trick is to use sugar from a C4-plant (Zea maize) which is enriched in C13. Normal honey plants are C3-plans and therefore have a different C13-content (less of C13). In that way you could measure the different 13-ratios of the feeding sugar and the normal honey before feeding your sugar and than calculate from the measuring data the "contamination" with C13. This would be true also for normal sugar in the US from sugar cane, which is a C4-plant as well. This technique has been used in the US to detect honey adulteration with sugar (from sugar cane). In my country we get the sugar from Beta vulgaris which is a C3-plant, therefore this technique does not work here. This is a safe method and does involve only natural isotopes availabe in nature having no harming effect at all. With best regards Ahlert Schmidt mailto:Ahlert.Schmidt@t-online.de ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 17:33:08 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Rich Subject: Re: Ants MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You asked how to get rid of ants: Here are a few hints - 1. Check to see that they are not _living_ in the hive, but robbing the hive. If they are living in the hive, you will have to remove the portion of the hive that they are living in, then cure the infestation. Unless some other member of the group knows of a way to remove the hive. 2. If they are infesting/robbing the hive, check the archives for methods. There is lots of information that was helpful to me when I had the same problem as a beginning bee keeper. (I still feel like one!) I had a nest of small ants that had eggs under the top cover of one of my hives. I painted the ants and eggs with mineral oil and was rid of the problem. This happened while I was out of town on business. I also had a nest of ants that found the honey irresistable - their trail was easy to find; however, I advise watching for poison ivy when following an ant trail. Adrian Wenner had some great information regarding safely getting rid ants. Also in the archives. My hives were healthy during this problem(had problem during spring flow), but the bees were testy. The bees will appreciate being rid of the ants. And - I appreciate the suggestion of mineral oil instead of used motor oil. My mentor paints all his stands with used motor oil regularly. I don't like to see the oil slick running down the creek from my hives, and have avoided this method when possible - which is always, now! Best wishes to a rapid riddance to ants! Tim Rich ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 12:53:28 -0800 Reply-To: thfofc@gci.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Steve Victors Subject: Starting 2 Queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All, I am planning on running a 2 queen system starting from package bees. What I am planning on doing is to install a 4 pound package into a single deep that is split with a vertical queen excluder and place a queen on each side. If I place comb filled with stores on the outside frames the cluster is forced to the middle and the brood nest should remain intact. Does anyone in the group have experience with this method? Will the 2 queens fight through the excluder since they are in close proximity and therefore more likely to randomly encounter each other? I understand that the excluder works well if the queens each have their own brood chamber and presumably more space. I couldn't find anything in the archives on this although there seems to be a fair bit on running a 2 queen system once you have a hive established. We have a short early honey flow and my goal is to build a population as rapidly as possible through use of an extra queen. Thanks Steve Victors Big Lake, Alaska ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 21:29:42 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Mark Malby Goodman (by way of John Goodman)" Subject: Re: FIRST HAND REPORT (FOOT & MOUTH) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" HUMANS DO NOT INCUBATE FMD! Humans are NOT likely to incuabte the disease 'FOOT & MOUTH' (FMD), caused by Aphtho Virus, then shedding the virus for 5 days. There have been only 20 or so cases of FMD in people over the last 100 years in spite of the close contact between farmers and their stock and it is not dangerous to humans. We act purely as vectors and can thereby cause the disease to spread. The main risk is of people carrying the virus on dirty clothing, footware or vehicles eg as contaminated mud etc on walking boots or car tyres. (There is a lot of misunderstanding about this. Perhaps, because there is a human infection known commonly as 'HAND FOOT & MOUTH' (ie a Vesicular Stomatitis) caused by a completely different virus, the Coxsackie Virus. This, however, has not been shown pass between humans and animals as the FMD which affects cloven hooved animals ie the present epidemic which is causing so much trauma in the UK.) DO OBSERVE any guidance or restrictions concerning access to the countryside or contact with animals that may be at risk from FMD. Farmers and other country loving folk are naturally very sensitive about very real or even apparent risks to livestock. We are similarly anxious about honey bee pests and diseases etc as BEEKEEPERS! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 22:39:31 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: darrells Subject: Re: "comb" honey In-Reply-To: <200104030648.CAA21644@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Elizabeth Vogt of Vashon Island, WA wrote about her bees building two combs beside Pierco foundation. I believe its a combination of bee space and the plastic not being attractive. If you like this type of comb honey, use empty frames(no foundation). I use 9 frame medium supers for honey. My extractor is 4 frame. I was always needing to deal with the extra frame until I started using the centre frame of each honey super for cut comb. The centre frame is normally finished first and can be removed before the super is full( insert another empty frame in its place) or left until the super is full. I used full sheets of cut comb foundation at first, cutting back to part sheets, then to no foundation at all. IN A GOOD HONEY FLOW the bees draw out the frame in drone sized comb, then fill it and cap it quickly. Bob Darrell Caledon Ontario Canada 80W44N ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 07:52:48 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob & Liz Subject: Re: Starting 2 Queens Comments: To: thfofc@GCI.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Steve & All, I see many problems with your idea. I run quite a few two queens. I am to busy now to go into a complicated subject like two queens. Sorry. I will highlight problem areas with your idea. You need lots more brood area. Bees WILL swarm out of two queen hives. Queens could spend all the time trying to sting each other thru the excluder. Although a lethel sting most likely wouldn't happen they *might* spend quite a bit of time they should be laying eggs trying. Disrupting both hives. Another possibility is the bees from one package (both being queenright) would fight when given direct access thru the excluder at the very first. Also the bees could kill one of the queens at any time. Two queens hives are complicated and need attention. I do mine like the method described in most bee books. Sincerely, Bob Harrison Odessa, Missouri ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 09:27:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Ignoring Plasticell foundation Elizabeth told us about bees building drone foundation immediately adjacent to Plasticell foundation, rather than "drawing" the Plasticell. Bob Darrell, said he thought the difficulty was a combination of bees space and bees not liking the plastic...I agree. If you want this again, Elizabeth, just continue to do as you did last year. It will probably produce the same result...but may not. In my experience, bees will properly draw Pierco only when given a full super of undrawn Pierco foundation. Then they will do fine. Anything less than a full super and you are likely to have problems. Far better, in my opinion, is the Dadant beeswax coated Plasticell. Lloyd Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner of Ross Rounds, manufacturer of comb honey equipment for beekeepers and Sundance pollen traps. http://www.rossrounds.com Lloyd@rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 11:51:54 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Pierco and Plasticell My mind was not working properly earlier this morning and I sent out a very confusing message. The following is the message that should have been sent. SORRY. Elizabeth told us about bees building drone foundation immediately adjacent to Pierco foundation, rather than "drawing" the Pierco. Bob Darrell, said he thought the difficulty was a combination of bees space and bees not liking the plastic...I agree. If you want this again, Elizabeth, just continue to do as you did last year. It will probably produce the same result...but may not. In my experience, bees will properly draw Pierco only when given a full super of undrawn Pierco foundation. Then they will do fine. Anything less than a full super and you are likely to have problems. Far better, in my opinion, is the Dadant beeswax coated Plasticell. Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner of Ross Rounds, manufacturer of comb honey equipment for beekeepers and Sundance pollen traps. http://www.rossrounds.com Lloyd@rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 10:57:32 -0600 Reply-To: darn@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: darn@FREENET.EDMONTON.AB.CA Subject: Re: "comb" honey In-Reply-To: <200104030645.CAA21620@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Mon, 2 Apr 2001, Elizabeth Vogt wrote: ...a couple of the frames (Pierco plastic, undrawn foundation, no wires, in wooden frame) contained drawn comb filled with honey not attached to the foundation. Any guesses why the bees did this ?... Hi Elizabeth: I don't know why they do this but I have noticed that the drawn combs are often drone comb, and I wonder if your bees might feel that they do not have enough drones. Were your unattached combs drone size or worker size? Best regards Donald Aitken ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 19:54:35 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Murray McGregor Subject: Re: Pierco and Plasticell In-Reply-To: <200104041606.MAA15657@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In article <200104041606.MAA15657@listserv.albany.edu>, Lloyd Spear writes > >In my experience, bees will properly draw Pierco only when given a full >super of undrawn Pierco foundation. Then they will do fine. Anything less >than a full super and you are likely to have problems. > >Far better, in my opinion, is the Dadant beeswax coated Plasticell. I presume that you are comparing unwaxed Pierco to waxed Plasticell here (at least that is how it reads to me.) I use both Plasticell and Pierco, both waxed, and find little difference in acceptance, both being fine, although less acceptable than wax. Unwaxed of either, in our climate, is a waste of time. Either of them, as foundation, mixed with wood/wax frames can cause a right old mess. There are also colonies which are just plain cussed about working plastic, and even with wood/wax there are always a few which just do not draw comb well to the pattern we want. Perhaps the colony being referred to is one of those. -- Murray McGregor ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 16:18:48 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vivian Donahue Subject: A children's book Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" One of the books I read as a child was "City of the Bees" by Frank Stuart. Very good story about a year in the life of a wild hive, and some of the mishaps that can happen. I loved the story and it was one of the reasons I got into beekeeping. It was published back in '47 and 49, but I still find copies on the web for a reasonable price from time to time. No pictures, but still very vivid descriptions Vivian ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 11:19:50 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael W Stoops Subject: Re: Bee Analogies, lessons Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Bryon, Just came across your message, the one you sent to BEE-L several years ago. If you have not found this site, it may be just what you are looking for. I've subscribed to this site for three or four years now and think it is a very good resource. Hope you're still online and this helps. MIKE STOOPS >From: Bryn Jones >To: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu >Subject: Bee Analogies, lessons >Date: Sun, Sep 19, 1999, 2:12 > Also, can anyone recommend Websites which have specific > teacher related lesson plan resource material about bees - for primary, > through to senior students? > Sincerely, > Bryn Jones > TeachersFirst Update - October 2, 2000 Happy October to all. We've come across a number of engaging sites this week Math resources on the web have gone well beyond drill and practice. The new interactive resources from the National Council of Teachers of Mathematics combine sound instruction with a presentation designed to retain attention. There are also great resources available from the National Science Foundation. Check them out on the middle and high school math pages on TeachersFirst. They're available from the TeachersFirst Content Matrix: http://www.teachersfirst.com/matrix-f.htm For AOL users, the URL is Content Matrix Nothing helps with "doing science" like real data. NOAA's Arctic theme site offers reporting on arctic climate information that could be the basis for a number of different lesson activities. There are also lots of other resources useful for studying this rapidly changing ecosystem. The Arctic theme page is available from TeachersFirst's Earth Science resources: http://www.teachersfirst.com/cnt-erth.htm For AOL users, the URL is Earth Science Sites Looking for data from closer to home. The U.S. Census Department's Quick Census Facts lets students look at population and demographic data from across the nation or your own home county. Trying to figure out how the voting will go in the presidential election in your county? Here's a great resource to start collecting ideas. The Quick Facts are on the TeachersFirst Reference page: http://www.teachersfirst.com/reference-f.htm For AOL users, the URL is Reference Resources You may have heard about the recent report from the Alliance for Childhood suggesting that computers and young children may not always be a great combination. If you're using technology in the classroom this is a document worth reading. The on-line version is available on TeachersFirst's Hot Topics at http://www.teachersfirst.com/hot-f.htm For AOL users, the URL is Hot Topics This week's Featured Sites include everything from a history of Harlem jazz to an interactive look at color theory and more. As always, the features are at http://www.teachersfirst.com/feature-f.htm For AOL users, the URL is Featured Sites Enough for now. Have a great week, enjoy the fall weather, and remember that you can make a difference. David Shively Editor — IMPORTANT NOTE REGARDING E-MAIL ADDRESSES: TeachersFirst's mailing list has over 16,000 names. This makes manual list editing extremely difficult. We'll continue to do it when necessary, but we'd much prefer you follow the automated instructions below: TO CHANGE YOUR E-MAIL ADDRESS: If your old address will become inactive, simply subscribe using your new address, either by following the instruction below, or by using the form on the TeachersFirst opening page. The listserv software will automatically delete your old address. If your old address will not become inactive (e.g. if you've been using your spouse's e-mail account) do the following: 1) Unsubscribe from the list using the browser configured with the old address, then 2) subscribe using the browser configured with the new address. If all else fails, send an e-mail to webmaster@teachersfirst.com, but if you do, allow a couple of weeks for the changes to take effect. TO SUBSCRIBE to this newsletter, please follow these instructions: Send an e-mail to listserv@peach.ease.lsoft.com with the phrase - subscribe teachersfirst - in the body of the message. Your name will automatically be added to the TeachersFirst mailing list. TO UNSUBSCRIBE from this newsletter, please follow these instructions: Send an e-mail to listserv@peach.ease.lsoft.com with the phrase - unsubscribe teachersfirst - in the body of the message. Your name will automatically be removed. ---------- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 20:26:02 -0500 Reply-To: lkrengel@mc.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Larry Krengel Subject: Re: Ants MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't know about southern ants, but when I had trouble with agressive northern red ants, I put my hives on a short table and stood the table legs in coffee cans with an inch of oil in each. It worked in northern Wisconsin. Larry Krengel ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 06:35:30 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Wright Subject: Hive Stands (& ants) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I would greatly appreciate any suggestions for a good height for bee = stands. There was some discussion in August of 2000 on stands but = there have been no real comments about height. As a hobbyist returning to beekeeping this season I plan on only one = colony and have made plans to deal with ants at each leg of the stand. = I had a sheet of exterior plywood to which I was intending to bolt pipe = floor flanges below at each corner to receive four sections of = galvanized pipe for the legs. (I had intended on using sticky tape on = the legs instead of motor oil to prevent ants but the suggestion for = cans of salad oil was great!) Many rest bottom boards on cinder blocks at about 8" in height each, but = what does everyone think about a good workable height? Many Thanks, Scott W. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 09:21:24 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: Pierco and Plasticell MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > There are also colonies which are just plain cussed about working > plastic, and even with wood/wax there are always a few which > just do not > draw comb well to the pattern we want. Perhaps the colony > being referred > to is one of those. I have found that unless there is a flow on bees may make a mess no matter what the foundation is. If I must put foundation on a hive I try and make sure the hive is very strong and has a need to draw out the foundation in a hurry. For example if I pull three supers of honey off a hive and a flow is still on I can put on one super of foundation in their place. If I have a hive without supers and it seems to weak to do the job I start feeding it about sixty days before I will put a super of foundation on. This stimulates brood production and gets the bees filling up the frames in the bottom boxes. Once the hive is strong enough I stop feeding and give the bees some time to finish up the syrup. The next time a flow starts put the super on and they should draw it out. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 09:25:33 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: hive stands I have tried many different hive stands over the years. Be evolution, and with the help of others on this list, I now use pressure treated 4 X 4 on the ground, with plain pine 2 X 12's (stringers) above. The 2 X 12's are spaced 16" apart, and are 48" long. They are held together with one spacer at each end. The spacers are fastened to the stringers with 3" coated deck screws. The total height is just about 14". Add 12" or so for a bottom board and deep, and most of the time a beekeeper is working at 26" or higher...a good height. I don't often move my bees so the above is fine. If I were to move my bees often I would fasten the 4 X 4's to the 2 X 12's and the spacers to the stringers with galvanized or stainless lag bolts. Hope this helps. Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner of Ross Rounds, manufacturer of comb honey equipment for beekeepers and Sundance pollen traps. http://www.rossrounds.com Lloyd@rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 09:41:03 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Hive Stands (& ants) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/5/01 8:52:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, wright@PVTNETWORKS.NET writes: > > Many rest bottom boards on cinder blocks at about 8" in height each, but = > what does everyone think about a good workable height? > When your hives have a full complement of supers how tall will they be? I find lifting anything that is higher than my chin to be unwieldy. 2 deeps and 5 mediums with bottom boards and covers add up to a height of about 4 feet. How high from the ground is your chin? As for only keeping one colony of bees, everyone I know advises against it as it leaves little room for error. What bees these mortals fool. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 08:46:45 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gary P Johns/ets/relat/Okstate Subject: Re: Hive Stands (& ants) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Scott, For me the ideal height is the distance from my knuckles to the floor. Measure this distance, subtract the height of your complete hive (bottom board, brood boxes, inner cover, and top), and what's left over should be the finished height of your stand. Now with that said, I'll tell you the *real* ideal height. It's xldre(&^%$,! I find this works best for me. Gary Johns OSU Educational Television ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 06:46:00 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Starting 2 Queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" This message was originally submitted by beeman@GCI.NET to the BEE-L list at LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to remove quotes of previously posted material. ----------------- Original message (ID=6D171ECA) (67 lines) ------------------- Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 18:16:15 -0800 From: Tom Elliott To: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu Subject: Re: Starting 2 Queens Steve, I have run 2 queen colonies from packages several times. I have never tried the vertical separation method, but it does not sound good to me. You will have insufficient brood space and unless you begin the separation with a screen you are asking for a one queen colony which has only half a brood nest. I always use one queen over the other in separate boxes. The boxes are separated by a bottom board until the queen gets started, usually. I have installed two queens separated by a screen too small to pass bees. Eventually when both queens are established I replace the bottom board by a screen, or by a newspaper and queen excluder. I have never had a problem with this, and you do get large colonies. Tom -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Chugiak, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@gci.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 23:02:39 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Elizabeth Vogt Subject: weather conditions for bee packages ... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Many of us beekeepers on Vashon Island, WA (in the Puget Sound, just west of Seattle) will be receiving our packages (= queen + 3 lb. of workers) this Saturday, April 7. Our present weather, and what is predicted for the weekend, is ~ 45-50 degrees F, and rainy. My question, and one I have received from many beeleepers here this week, is ... When should we place our packages (that we are getting this Sat. 4/7 from Portland, via Northern CA) into hive boxes, if the weather is cold and rainy ??????? Hold them in cages for a few days until the temps. rise ? Any immediate/informed contributions to this inquiry are appreciated ! Sincerely, Elizabeth Vogt ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 07:48:29 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "David L. Green" Subject: Conservation Ecology Issue on Pollinator Decline MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The current issue of Conservation Ecology is entirely devoted to Pollinator Decline, which is widely perceived to be a reality today. While the role of migratory beekeepers (which have filled in many of the gaps in food crops in North America) is pretty much ignored, the issue offers several thoughtful and valuable articles. It can be accessed at: http://www.consecol.org/Journal/vol5/iss1/toc.html This journal is entirely online, making an opportunity for responses to the articles before they are finalized. Dave Green The Pollination Home Page: http://pollinator.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 07:42:41 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Blane White Subject: Re: weather conditions for bee packages ... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Elizabeth, You asked about when to hive packages in cold rainy weather. As soon as you can get them in the box! It is actually easier when it is rainy or snowing since the bees don't tend to fly and drift. I have hived packages in the snow here in Minnesota and have not had problems. You can do a few things to make it go easier. If you have several packages to hive go around and remove the four middle frames from the hive bodies and place the package into the hive and put the cover on top. That will allow the bees to start to warm the insides of the hive while you are installing them and protects the packages from the weather. Install the packages ( I spray them with sugar water and dump them in) and direct release the queen into the bees. Replace the frames carefully, give each package a pollen substutite patty and place a feeder on top with sugar syrup ( 50:50) medicated with fumidil. The fumidil protects the queen from nosema in this stressed situation and so prevents some ! common queen problems. Medicate only the first gallon or so of syrup since that is all that is needed. Do make very sure to use top feeders that the bees can cluster directly under and get the syrup and they will do fine. It has been done here in a blizzard and the bees did fine as long as they could cluster under the feeder and take the syrup. Good luck with the packages. blane ****************************************** Blane White MN Dept of Agriculture blane.white@state.mn.us ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 08:48:38 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: huestis Subject: Re: weather conditions for bee packages ... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Elizabeth, Last year I installed 25 packages in the pouring rain at 40 degrees. This isn't a problem at all as the bees will be fine. Keep them covered as you work but with ventilation. Years like this will come and go, just install them in their hives. Most important is to make sure they have plenty of bee chow! The rain will keep bees from the packages from drifting to other colonies. Just keep yourself dry as you are more likely to be the one who comes down with a cold. Regards Clay ----- Original Message ----- From: Elizabeth Vogt To: Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 11:02 PM Subject: weather conditions for bee packages ... ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 11:02:48 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: installing packages Elizabeth asks about placing packages when the temperatures are just above freezing and there is cold rain. I have the privilege of participating in seminar leadership on beekeeping and one thing I constantly emphasize is that COLD DOES NOT HURT BEES. Doubters can put a few bees in the refrigerator for 4-5 hours and then let them warm to room temperature. They recover from comatose to fully functional without any difficulty. That said, excessive moisture kills bees! If you are having normal Vancouver cold drizzle, I think the bees will be far better off being put in a hive, and fed, than being left in the package. On the other hand, if it is truly raining so that the bees might get wet before getting them into the hive, I advising keeping them in the package until the rain stops. If the latter, keep them in a cool, dark place with plenty of ventilation. A shed or barn works great, as long as they are kept well away from any exhaust fumes. Basements can be too warm. Every year many packages are installed in the middle of snowfields, often while it is actively snowing. Don't worry about the cold. Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner of Ross Rounds, manufacturer of comb honey equipment for beekeepers and Sundance pollen traps. http://www.rossrounds.com Lloyd@rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 10:31:06 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mike Churchill Subject: Re: Hive Stands In-Reply-To: <200104051250.IAA20532@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 06:35 AM 4/5/01 -0600, you wrote: >I would greatly appreciate any suggestions for a good height for bee = >stands. There was some discussion in August of 2000 on stands but = >there have been no real comments about height. I'm a hobby beekeeper and don't need to migrate my bees, but what I use works well for me. I use three cinder blocks, spaced evenly apart. I place the cinder blocks with the openings to the side. This is less strong (not a problem), but prevents termites from building tunnels up through the inside of the blocks. I slope the blocks slightly down to the south for water drainage. On top of the blocks I put two 8' landscaping timbers (these are roughly 4" X 6", and have preservative added). I then place two hives on these, placed towards the outside ends. This leaves space in between to place tools, smoker, new/removed supers, etc. I leave just a little space on the outside edges to place the inner cover propped against the side of the hive and off the ground. Wayward bees can find their way back into the hive easily. The hives hang over the front/back of the timbers a few inches, but seem to be quite stable. I also use a piece (4'x10') of old carpeting behind the hive as a weed block so I have a nice place to stand while I work. +====+ +====+ +====+ +====+ +====+ | | | | +====+ +====+| | | | || < inner cover +====+ +====+| ================================ < timbers **** **** **** < cinder **** **** **** blocks How high should it be? As high as necessary and as low as possible. Higher means fewer weed problems and less rot due to ground moisture. Lower means it is easier to remove that highest super. I have not measured, but cinder blocks are slightly less that a foot high (less the settling in to level them), plus another 4" for the timbers, so the bottom board would sit about 15" above ground level. I'm a tall guy, so working height hasn't been a problem for me. The down side? It takes a little time to get the cinder blocks levelled so that the landscaping timbers are parallel and hives don't wobble. One can only move one hive at a time (not a problem for me). This setup would not help Camille's ant problem. My two cent's worth. Mike Churchill Mike Churchill, Beginning Beekeeper | What's the buzz all about? mike.churchill@netmechanic.com http://www.netmechanic.com - Power Tools for Your Web Site Link and HTML testing, Server Reliability Testing, Website Promotion Tools ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 12:23:50 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Imidicloprid - The Scott-Dupree Report MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Can anyone point me to an online copy of the Cynthia Scott-Dupree evaluation of Gaucho? All I've been able to find are references to her evaluation, I cannot find the original? Thanks in advance, Aaron Morris ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 06:49:39 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: weather conditions for bee packages ... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > When should we place our packages (that we are getting this Sat. > 4/7 from Portland, via Northern CA) into hive boxes, if the weather is > cold and rainy ??????? Dear Elizabeth, Well, the rule of thumb is the sooner you can get your packages installed, the better off you are. Cold is less of a concern than is rainy, and actually, rainy may work in your favor too depending how heavily it rains. If it's a pouring rain, store your packages in a cool dark place and pray for a nicer day. But if it's a light misty day, (a soft day in Ireland) the sort of rain that has one use intermittant setting on the windshield wipers, then get out there and install your packages! On such a day, the bees will not be inclined to fly and will stay put in their new home. This is a good thing. Remember when installing packages to get as many bees as possible shaken from the cage into the hive. Don't be timid about the shaking, the bees can take the banging required to shake them out of the corners. I have seen many packages installed with a cup full or more of bees left inside the cage. When asked why the beekeeper left the bees behind they reply they couldn't get the bees out and figured the bees would figure out where to go. What the bees figure out is to cluster where they are inside the package, where they won't have a mass large enough to thermoregulate (especially on a misty day) and they will surely perish. Good luck! Sincerely, Aaron Morris ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 09:58:15 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Douglas Gibbs Subject: cold wet requeening MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have just received 6 queens here on the Oregon coast, does the same advice about packages apply to requeening? Since the old queen has to be removed, opening the hive to find the old queen during a cold and wet snap would not be good. I am planning on keeping the queens and their attendants in the boxes and feed them 1-1 sugar water on the wire top until the sun is shining again and it warms up over 50 degrees. Doug Gibbs, Bandon, OR ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 12:40:17 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Stan Sandler Subject: Re: Imidicloprid - The Scott-Dupree Report Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Can anyone point me to an online copy of the Cynthia Scott-Dupree evaluation >of Gaucho? All I've been able to find are references to her evaluation, I >cannot find the original? It has not been published yet. But PMRA (Pesticide Management Regulatory Agency) has asked Bayer to produce documents from France and recent tests (will certainly include this one) and so it should not be long. So far, all the has been heard (to my knowledge) is an oral presentation at the Canadian Honey Council / CAPA meeting in Moncton. Regards, Stan ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 19:53:59 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Goodman Subject: Fwd: Fw: summer/winter bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >From: Victor Benno Meyer-Rochow >Sent: 15 March 2001 18:45 >Subject: summer/winter bees > > >> Dear Sir, certainly not a great discovery, but we have found in >comparisons >> between winter and summer bees (weighed in mid January and mid July) that >> the winter bees were significantly lighter than the summer bees. Do you >(or >> any of your friends) know of any publications/references regarding such >> weight difference between winter and summer bees? Yours sincerely VB >> Meyer-Rochow >> Dr. V.B. Meyer-Rochow >> Department of Biology >> University of Oulu (P.O.Box 8000) >> SF-90014 OULU (FINLAND) >> Tel.: 358-8-5531237; Fax: 358-8-5533203 >> Visiting Professor: Institute of Arctic Medicine, Oulu University, >SF-90220 >> Oulu (FINLAND); Fax: 358-8-5376203 >> > Homepage: http://cc.oulu.fi/~arktwww/Benno.html