From MAILER-DAEMON@luna.metalab.unc.edu Sun May 20 09:13:47 2001 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by luna.metalab.unc.edu (8.11.0/8.11.0) with ESMTP id f4KDDls18809 for ; Sun, 20 May 2001 09:13:47 -0400 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.11.2/8.11.2) with ESMTP id f4KDDiJ12736 for ; Sun, 20 May 2001 09:13:44 -0400 (EDT) Message-Id: <200105201313.f4KDDiJ12736@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 09:13:40 -0400 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0104E" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Status: RO Content-Length: 7558 Lines: 177 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 14:16:24 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Mann Subject: winter water regimes Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The recent discussion of water in hives prompts the following notes. The air in the winter hive can be crudely likened to a floating bubble, a 'warm air balloon'. Forced ventilation, notably wind at the entrance or mesh floor, is a major influence on the turnover of this 'bubble'. Bodily movement of air masses can be a far greater influence on the water regime in the hive than the effects on gas densities caused by admixing into the air both water vapour (tending to decrease the density) and carbon dioxide (tending to increase it). The temperature of the 'warm air balloon' is influenced also by that anomalously large quantity, the latent heat of evaporation of water (same thing, with a minus sign, as the heat given out when water condenses). If a hive is struggling for heat, it will keep warmer if water vapour actually condenses from the air before the air leaves the hive; the problem then becomes to ensure that the liquid runs away harmlessly. If ventilation is inadequate, some fanning may be organised - anyone studied this? We are all familiar with the little dears excercising just outside (one side of) the entrance on a summer evg, to create an inverted-U scavenging loop of air to evaporate water; does any such arrangement get organised to relieve excess moisture from the hive in some winter conditions? What this discussion brings into focus is the potential of mesh floors to improve ventilation (tho' I'm sure in cold winds this could be too much) as well as to allow varroa to fall out. Always nice to do two or more functions with the one component - and no moving parts! R ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 20:33:24 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Living queen in a dead hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I once found a hive with a queen and just 4 workers. This must have been in early September 1995 or thereabouts. The problem was varroa collapse. The colapse must have been very sudden because although there were plenty of wasps around and other hives as well there was no sign of robbing having started. Chris ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:38:40 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rodney Farrar Subject: New Hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When is the best time to add second hive body for a new hive? Using deep hive bodies, do not have drawn comb, should it be 70-80% drawn and capped or only drawn before putting second body on? Thanks, Rodney ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 19:51:25 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob Harrison Subject: Official National Honey Board T shirt Hello All, I received in the mail yesterday the NHB apparel program 2001. I receive mail from the board because I have paid the one cent per pound since the start. Although I have not always agreed with the board I have supported its efforts. The official NHB T shirt for 2001 is unusual to say the least. On the T shirt in big letters is *Genuine U.S. Beekeeper* with : *Endangered Species* below beekeeper. All beekeepers can order apparel from the nhb website. Caps,T shirts,sweatshirts and windbreakers. www.nhb.org Bob ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 21:48:50 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Barnett Subject: Re: New Hives In-Reply-To: <200104292150.f3TLoBs04008@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit > From: Rodney Farrar > Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology > > Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:38:40 EDT > To: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu > Subject: New Hives Hello Rodney and all: > When is the best time to add second hive body for a new hive? Using deep hive > bodies, do not have drawn comb, should it be 70-80% drawn and capped or only > drawn before putting second body on? When the "brood box" has 90-95% drawn comb, a lot of brood, pollen, and substantial honey being processed, a good nector flow or continuing 1:1 syrup being fed, is the right time. If are to use a queen excluder, be sure to take from the brood box one 'side frame' that is at least partially drawn and with considerable nector-sugarsyrup in it out of the BB, using this to bait the center of the second box; place the removed center frame of foundation from the second box into the removed side frame position in the brood box where the colony will begin to redraw it and fill IT with nector-syrup. Of course some of the honey in the 1st body wil be partially capped, especially across the top including top corners. All this is not absolutely critical. Be sure the bees don't fill the primary box to point of being crowded....they may need some place to hang out at night! Bob Barnett...Birmingham AL > Thanks, > Rodney ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:53:21 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: New Hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 70% drawn is ok for adding the second box. Because all the warmth and activity will be above the center of the bottom box the bees will draw frames in the middle of the 2nd box before the outsides of the bottom. Your job will be to move these down keeping brood with brood to fill the 1st box. Keep feeding them and correct any malformed combs. What bees these mortals fool.