From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 07:41:26 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-86.4 required=2.4 tests=ADVANCE_FEE_1,AWL, MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR,SPF_HELO_PASS,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Delivered-To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 97AAE4907D for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 07:28:41 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SCP3sO010167 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 07:28:41 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 07:28:38 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0208B" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Message-ID: Content-Length: 150496 Lines: 3537 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 21:03:10 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Apistan & Menthol MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Sue, Sue was my mother's name, but she died almost 10 years ago at age 99, and I still miss her a great deal. It is a fine name. I don't treat for tracheal mite on July 1st - I treat with menthol on August 15th near Washington, DC. I don't know where you are, so your date might be before or after August 15th. On July 1st, I perform a "sticky board" test for Varroa mites. Diseases and pests are basically NEVER in the super area, but almost always associated with the BROOD. Hence, you put Apistan strips in the area that has BROOD, 1 strip for each 5 frames that have brood in them. Again, your location determines the best date. Oct 1st is the best for near Washington, DC, but certainly not the best date for Boston in the North or Atlanta in the South. You want to have Apistan in a colony for 6-8 weeks when the queen has greatly reduced her laying of eggs or completely stopped; and this varies dramatically with the temperature of YOUR LOCATION. TEMPERATURE is VERY IMPORTANT in determining WHEN to treat with either MENTHOL or APISTAN, or ANYTHING for that matter. Pay attention to temperature! If I knew where your bees are located, I could give you better advice. I hope I have helped. George Imirie Certified EAS Master Beekeeper Past President of Maryland State Beekeepers Assn. Beginning my 70th year of beekeeping in Maryland and Virginia Author of George's PINK PAGES ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 20:42:14 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: no brood-what should I do? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mark, TEST FOR THE PRESENCE OF A QUEEN BEFORE YOU BUY A NEW QUEEN! I wrote a PINK PAGE about this in June of this year. YOU BETTER READ IT. It is on www.beekeeper.org/george_imirie/index.html I will summarize here for you, but the PINK PAGE gives a lot more detail. If you find no eggs, larva, or even capped brood, that does NOT mean there is no queen in the colony. From the time an old queen swarms, or is superseded, or dies, it might be as long as 25-30 days before a new queen begins laying. If you spend $10-$15 for a new queen, she is going to be killed as soon as you install her, because your bees are happy that they already have a queen. It is so easy to test to find if your colony is truly queenLESS. You have another colony, so go in it and pull out a frame with EGGS on it, or larvae BUT NOT OVER ONE DAY OLD LARVA, eggs are definitely the best but some beekeepers have trouble seeing them. Put that frame in the colony you think is queenLESS, and do not disturb it for 3 days. Inspect that frame, and if you find the beginnings of a small queen cell right on the face of the comb, the bees are trying to raise a new queen from one of the eggs in the frame, and this tells you that the colony is queenLESS. If, on the other hand, the bees have NOT started to build any queen cell on the frame of eggs, this is positive proof that there is some critter in the colony that the bees consider is a new queen, and, again, any new queen you try to introduce will be killed. If your head is hot, you take your temperature with a thermometer. You use a dipstick in your car testing to see if your crankcase needs any oil or not. You look for ice in a bucket of water to see if the temperature went below 32°. Your car gas gauge is a tester telling you how much gas is in the tank. We TEST for everything, so TEST to see if a colony is queenLESS before ordering a new queen and then having her killed. Read my PINK PAGES for more information. By the way, if you have to get a new queen, at this time of year and in a drought of nectar, queens are very difficult to introduce. There is a PINK PAGE about how to do this too called the "The Imirie Almost Foolproof Requeening Method". I hope I have helped. George Imirie Certified EAS Master Beekeeper Past President of Maryland State Beekeepers Assn. Beginning my 70th year of beekeeping in Maryland and Virginia Author of George's PINK PAGES ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 18:11:07 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dennis Murrell Subject: More on Cell Size MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Peter, Great idea with the topbar hives. Would it also be possible to document not only the ratios but also the spatial relationships between the different sizes of cell within the hive, maybe on a comb or of the combs to the hive itself? Please keep us informed of your results. Thanks Dennis ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:31:57 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Tim Vaughan Subject: Hmong Just got an interesting E-mail from a friend in Dakota County, Minn. He says some of the Hmong community there have made attempts at beekeeping, but it's not working out well. I wonder if it is partially because they were used to the A.m.cerana, and are not used to having to treat for mites? Anyone know were my friend can get some local honey in Dakota county Minn? Thanks Tim tvaughan@charter.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 10:13:19 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Russian Beekeepers -- Sakhalin Island Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi: I have an urgent need to acquire information and an English speaking (writing) person who can put me in contact with beekeepers on Sakhalin Island, or someone who can contact them. Short window of opportunity - 4-6 days, so I need the information fast. We may have a chance to conduct a large project involving bees on the Island and/or in eastern Russia, starting almost immediately. I've talked to Jeff Harris at the USDA lab, but they don't have any contact with the Island. I understand that there is a branch of Moscow University on the Island, which is only 1200km long!. Thanks for any help. Jerry ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 11:32:30 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: BEE_L_Moderator Subject: BEE-L FAQ and Guidelines MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BEE-L is a moderated discussion list with published standards & guidelines. Discussion covers a wide range of bee-related subjects. Anyone with an interest in bees is welcome to join and submit articles for consideration. While anyone may read BEE-L, those submitting articles, by doing so, agree that acceptance or rejection of posts to be sent to the list is at the sole discretion of the moderators. GUIDELINES: BEE-L has rules that everyone who wishes to post messages to the list must observe. Please see http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L for details. Failure to meet guidelines will result in rejection of your article, usually without comment. IN PARTICULAR, DO NOT INCLUDE QUOTES OF PREVIOUS ARTICLES OR ANY PREVIOUS HEADERS WHEN REPLYING. CONTRIBUTIONS INCLUDING QUOTES THAT ARE NOT ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO UNDERSTANDING WILL USUALLY BE REJECTED *WITHOUT NOTICE* FAQ: Our FAQ is our archive of posts running back more than a decade. Every post that makes the list (and well over 90% do) goes into these archives and can be easily found by a search at any time now or in the future. We are very pleased at the high quality and wide variety of input from members all over the world. Please see http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L to access the archives. In a sense, we are writing a book together. The BEE-L archive search engine is much more powerful and flexible than many on the web. Please take time to read the help page and experiment a bit. You will be well rewarded for your time. BEE-L WEB PAGE: Links to our rules, the sign-on messages and access to our FAQ can be found in one easy-to-use page at http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L. BEFORE YOU POST OR REPLY TO BEE-L: Please visit http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L periodically to review our guidelines and especially before posting to the list. Please also, before posting basic questions, do a quick search of the archives (at the same page) to see if there are answers there. If not, or you are not satisfied with the answers, then by all means post your question to the list. REJECTED AND LOST POSTS: If you post an article to BEE-L and your article did not appear on the list within 24 hours, you will also find information there on what might have happened. There are more possibilities than simple rejection by moderators. CANCELLING AND CHANGING YOUR BEE-L SUBSCRIPTION: Easy-to-use forms to easily and quickly change, suspend, or cancel your BEE-L membership are available at http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L VIRUSES AND WORMS: BEE-L is moderated and is also text-only. Binaries and attachments are rejected. The moderators also reject any SPAM that is sent to BEE-L. Members therefore should never receive viruses or worms from BEE-L. Nonetheless anyone who sends and receives email on the Internet is vulnerable to receiving malicious programs in email from known and unknown persons. Therefore members are STRONGLY ADVISED to get and use two programs: a firewall and a virus checker. CURRENTLY RECOMMENDED SOFTWARE: Zone Alarm is available as a free download at http://www.zonelabs.com/ for personal use. It is simply the best available, and simple to use. Don't trust the firewall built into Windows XP. It, and many others out there simply won't do the trick. A personal version of AVG anti virus is available as a free download from http://www.grisoft.com/ and it can be set to update automatically or updated manually (for free) over the net whenever you like. Please be sure to update your anti-virus daily so that your computer does not get infected with new worms that come along daily, and thus become a nuisance to the rest of us. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 11:30:27 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mea McNeil Subject: Re: NY Times article In-Reply-To: <20020803.115717.-4000777.0.BWrangler@juno.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The New York Times ran a long article 7-3--02, D1, on John Miller of Miller Honey Farms in Gackle, ND, a migratory beekeeper and large honey producer. Is it true, as the article states, that the way smoke works is that it "disrupts the pheromones in the hive"? MEA McNeil ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 21:50:05 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Tom Barrett Subject: Coumaphos Resistance Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All I am trying to obtain information on the development of resistance to Apistan/Coumaphos and that is why I sent a message lately to BEE-L. And that is why I am sending this message to expand on why I am looking for assistance. In Ireland we are most likely facing eventually the same situation as American beekeepers currently face, and I am attempting to glean as much information from our American beekeeping friends as I can. I know that Coumaphos resistance has been identified in four states in the USA. What effect has this on 1. Hobby beekeepers 2. Commercial beekeepers In Ireland apart from one or two beekeepers we are mostly hobbyists. More than 100 hives in Ireland is a rarity. And right now we have varroa since 1998 and it is travelling through the country at a speed that has amazed most beekeepers. And to add to our woes, mites resistant to Apistan/Bayvarol have now appeared in the South West of England and will probably appear in Ireland sooner rather than later. Any assistance and comments will be most welcome. Good night from a cold damp Ireland! Sincerely Tom Barrett Dublin Ireland ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 18:25:01 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Coleene Davidson Subject: Sting Reaction Comments: To: Norlandbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello all, Saturday evening I got a sting just under my left eye. I removed the stinger immediately and within a short time the pain was gone. On Sunday morning, however, both eyes were mildly swollen. On Monday morning my eyes were nearly swollen shut and by Monday afternoon a had a rash on both arms, neck and torso. I am now just getting over the whole mess. Has anyone experienced this type of reaction? Normally when I get stung I have a hard time finding the point of the sting, let alone developing swelling and rash. Coleene ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 21:44:58 -0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Eunice Wonnacott Subject: Re: Sting Reaction MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Colleen: As I understand it, some individuals increase sensitivity gradually, and you may be one who will sooner or later become truly allergic to bee venom. You will be well advised to seek knowledgeable professional advice. "Better safe than sorry" For myself, I am allergic, but have not let it stop me from pursuing a very interesting and rewarding hobby. I always suited up very carefully, was assiduous in avoiding stings,, and always have an epi-pen with me. I kept bees for about twenty years until two years ago, when other considerations led me to stop. I still carry the pen, drive a car with air conditioning so as to be able to keep the windows closed whenever there may be flying insects, etc. So far I have never needed to use the pen !! all the best. Eunice ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 17:22:10 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: dan hendricks Subject: no brood-what should I do? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Mark, I always requeen with a store-bought queen under your circumstances, including through the first week of November. I think it best not to feel impelled to be certain of success. "Give good luck a chance to happen." A new queen has plenty of time to make new brood. Foragers will perform nurse duties just fine. Dan --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs, a Yahoo! service - Search Thousands of New Jobs ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:25:42 +0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Roger White Subject: Re: Coumaphos Resistance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom, Just a few days ago it was said that in Ireland they didn't want to know about any treatment that didn't involve Bayvarol - how very foolish. Relying on a single product to solve the problem is asking for trouble....... Resistance to fluvalinate also means resitance to flumethrin and amitraz, however as coumaphos is in another class of chemicals it is very effective where fluvalinate resistance is present. I think that it is very important to rotate treatments from the beginning. As wide a variety as possible should be used. This is done in some countries, with a general agreement being reached by the beekeeping associations as to which treatment should be used each year. This of course delays the build-up of resistance to any of the products and hopefully will buy enough time for research by bee scientists to come up with something that will control the mite forever. For example small cell foundation or one of the fungi presently being tested. Just as a matter of interest, we have had Varroa since 1982! Best regards Roger White Superbee Cyprus. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 08:09:15 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Tim Arheit Subject: Re: Sting Reaction In-Reply-To: <003401c23f3d$fefc55a0$023fde18@blwcznsy> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 09:44 PM 8/8/02 -0300, you wrote: >Colleen: > >As I understand it, some individuals increase sensitivity gradually, and you >may be one who will sooner or later become truly allergic to bee venom. On the other hand, every sting and situation can be different. Personally I avoid stings on my hands and face as they tend to swell up painfully, while my reaction to stings elsewhere is little more than a mosquito bite. Though this year my reaction when stung on my hands seems to be diminished significantly, little swelling and no pain. The reaction also seems to be worse when afflicted with other allergins. Hay fever, ant bites, etc. Two years ago I suffered a similar reaction to what you describe from a single sting on my shoulder/neck, including a little bit of nausea and feeling hot/bad. Got over in a few hours but was very concerned for awhile that it could develop into anaphylactic shock. Fortunately, nothing happened, and all stings since have just been mild irritations. From what I've read, it's nearly impossible to predict what your reaction to the next sting will be with complete certainty. Even testing can't predict that the next sting will react badly when you aren't normally allergic. And one bad reaction doesn't mean you are getting sensitive. It's probably a good idea to always have an epi-pen handy, just in case, even if you aren't normally allergic. -Tim ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:53:05 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bumble Subject: Re: Sting Reaction In-Reply-To: <003201c23f2a$70e000e0$35bc41d8@cedavidson> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Hi Coleen, I suffered a similar reaction when I was stung earlier this year just above my left eyebrow. I removed the sting and thought that would be the end of it. However, within 20 minutes my eye had started to close up with swelling and within 1 hour was completely shut. The swelling around the eye was like half of a grapefruit. The next day the swelling had subsided on my left eye but spread across the bridge of my nose to the right eye. Visiting a client later that day it was suggested that I'd been in a fight! And at beeclub 2 days later I was teased with the nickname Tyson (following his defeat by Lewis). Previously this season I had collected 30-40 stings on at least 2 occasions and regularly got a dozen or so whilst inspecting a particularly vicious hive. I work bare handed and usually collect at least six stings a week. All of this with little reaction, so I was particularly surprised at the severity of the reaction to the eye sting. As a cautionary measure ALL stings in the eye area should be examined by a doctor without delay as major damage to the optic nerve can take place. Also if stung in the eye irrigate it with copious amounts of saline solution or eye wash such as Optrex and then seek medical attention. One beekeeper of my acquaintance once got venom sprayed in his eye, when a bee tried to sting him through his veil venom was shaken into his eye. He had a severe burning, minor swelling and sought medical attention STRAIGHT AWAY. The tissue around eyes is very delicate and although you may not react to stings on any other parts of your body the reaction to stings around the eyes is often severe. On the other hand my eight year old daughter was stung in the eyelid once and had no reaction whatsoever apart from a stinging sensation, maybe not much venom was injected, maybe she's just hardy and lucky. Don't take chances with your eyesight after all, You can walk with a wooden leg, You can write with a plastic arm, Just try looking with a glass eye! Take care. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:54:41 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Sting Reaction MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Colleen, You may have a long term problem or you may not. Sings around the eyes and other "soft tissue" areas tend to swell up even with beekeepers who are stung often. I had a similar reaction when I had a couple of stings around my eyes (don't ask how they got under my veil). Plus, there are times when even the most stung of us will have a reaction, such as massive swelling, for no good reason, and will never experience it again. Also, if you have been taking medication, specifically Ibuprofen and other anti-inflamitories like it, you might get allergic reations. There have been some reports that it can cause allergic like reactions when stung. I had to take it for a while and did get stung and did have an allergic reaction (hives) when I have never ever had such a reaction when stung. I shifted to asprin and no problems since. In any case, you should have an epipen nearby no matter what. Actually anyone who keeps bees should have one. Cheap insurance. Your doctor will be happy to prescribe one. Bill Truesdell Bath, Me ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:51:57 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Borst Subject: Re: Sting Reaction Has anyone experienced this type of reaction? Colleen, I frequently get stung and seldom have a reaction. Once and a while I get stung near the eye and still have no reaction. But usually a sting near or on the eyelid will cause some swelling for me, even after all these years. One time I got a large number of stings on the back of the neck and the following day both my eyes nearly swelled shut. By the way, I got stung by a yellow jacket on the knuckle, and it immediately started to swell and itch. I thought, this is what a bee sting must be like for a normal person. (I had forgotten). Oddly, the swelling subsided in the knuckle but "moved" toward the hand. Soon the back of the hand was the only part swollen, the knuckle no longer swollen at all. I think some parts of the body are much more prone to swelling, such as the tissue around the eye. Perhaps that is why a punch to eye will produce a "shiner" where the same punch to another location might not leave a mark. PS Steve Taber used to say, always wear a veil. If you get stung on the eyeball, it could cause blindness. Of course, I never followed that rule, but he has a point. PB ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:43:13 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Borst Subject: Re: NY Times article Mea, I don't think anyone really knows why bees react to smoke the way they do. I have heard many theories, such as: they think the hive is on fire and they gorge themselves with honey prior to departing. Certainly, it must be highly disruptive in a totally dark environment where odors are the principle stimuli that bees use to gain awareness of what is going on. My own theory, developed over almost 30 years of beekeeping, is this: ordinary smoke intoxicates honey bees. They exhibit symptoms very similar to intoxication in animals: dulled responses, delayed reaction time, etc. I believe the gorging is a result of lowered inhibition. Normally, sticking your head in a cell and pigging out is forbidden in the hive, but it must be a huge temptation! So when the bees are smoked, the customs of the hive break down, they fail to defend the entrance, neglect to sting intruders, and start to gobble fresh honey. If you smoke a hive excessively, it may be hours before they really get back to work. Peter Borst ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 14:05:32 +0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Durk Ellison Subject: BVT Conference in Japan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Japan Apitherapy Society and the Nonprofit Organization Japan Apitherapy Association invites you to our First Japanese Conference and Workshop on Bee Venom Therapy with International Participation About this Autumn's conference: 1) Venue KINJYOKAN Hotel 10-33 Syowa Atami City, Shizuoka prefecture. Phone no: (+)81-557-81-6261. 2) Date September 23-rd. 2002 (Monday) - September 25-th. (Wednesday) 3) Course fee JPY 33,000 (about 275 USD) (includes also hotel and meals). ---Conference program--- September 23-th 12.00 - 13.00 Reception and registration of participants. 13.30 - 14.50 Opening ceremony. 13.30-14.45 : Opening speech by Mr. Naoki Ota, President of the Japan Apitherapy Association. 14.45-14.50 : Opening speech by Dr. Stefan Stangaciu, President of the German Apitherapy Society. Preliminary program of lectures: 15.00 - 15.50 Naoki Ota - The History of Bee Venom Therapy in Japan. 16.00 - 16.50 Hirofumi Naito - New ways of approaching health care through Apitherapy. 17.00 - 17.50 Katsumi Yamamoto - Basics of beekeeping in modern times. 18.00 -18.50 Hideto Fukuda - Basics of BVT. 19.00 - 20.00 Dinner 20.00 - 21.30 Hideto Fukuda - Questions & Answers for beginners in Apitherapy. September 24-th. 9.00 - 9.50 Kenji Iwade, Tsutomu Aragaki - "O"ring test (ORT) in cases of atlas (first cervical vertebra) malposition. 10.00 - 10.50 Takashi Kanno, Minoru Furuta - Oral bee sting therapy. 11.00 - 11.50 Mitsuo Kato, Ken Nakamura - Bee sting therapy for arthritis of the knee. 12.00 - 12.50 Lunch 13.00 - 13.50 Fukumi Uzuta - Precautions during bee sting therapy. 14.00 - 14.50 Reiji Inoue - Treatment of Bedsores and Asthma. 15.00 - 15.50 Ryusaku Nishimura - How BVT increases income and improve your business. 16.00 - 16.50 Ko Soki - Apitherapy against diabetes. 17.00 - 17.50 ... 19.00 - 19.50 Dinner 20.00 - 22.00 Workshop (learning actively the best techniques of bee venom therapy) September 25-th. 9.00 - 9.40 Masamitsu Yanagawa, Kimie Tajika - How to become physically well balanced by GENKETSU. 9.50 - 10.20 Stefan Stangaciu - Apitherapy trends in the world. 10.30- 10.50 Hideto Fukuda - About the modern Japanese experience on bee venom therapy. 11.00 - 11.50 Closing ceremony. NOTICE: * Time table and contents might be changed. * Everybody will practice during the worshop! For registration to this Conference and Workshop please contact: Mr. Hirofumi Naito, Vice President of the Japan Apitherapy Society: Address 2-10-24 Shimoishida Kofu Yamanashi Japan Phone 81-55-226-8526 Fax 81-55-227-5205 E-mail costa@nns.ne.jp Deadline for registration: August 31, 2002. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 02:12:33 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Allen Subject: Re: Sting Reaction MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Coleene: The Hive and the Honey Bee has a pretty decent write-up on allergy to venomous insects beginning on page 1209. Table 3 on page 1217 categorizes various reactions to stings. I thought this might be of interest: “Cutaneous allergic reactions: Urticaria (hives, nettle rash) anywhere on the skin Angiodema (massive swelling) remote from the sting site Generalized pruritis (itching) of the skin Generalized erythema (redness) of the skin remote from sting site” “...the ‘cutaneous allergic reactions’ has been the subject of much medical debate. Some schools of thought recommend treatment including immunotherapy (allery shots) and others believe immunotherapy is unnecessary. The current trend appears to favor lack of aggressive treatment such as immunotherapy. Cutaneous allergic reactions all have one feature in common–they affect only the skin. They can be very unpleasant and even frightening to those who fear, or have been led to fear, that such reactions will progress to more serious reactions. This line of reasoning (plus the fact that these reactions are clearly mediated by the allergy-inducing antibody IgE) is the basis for the belief that cutaneous reactions often should be treated with immunotherapy. There is no evidence that cutaneous allergic reactions frequently progress to serious life-threatening systemic reaction. An instructive way to view cutaneous allergic reactions is to realize that skin reactions cannot threaten one’s life. Nobody has ever died of skin reactions to stings.” Of course no medical advise is offered in this post. Regards, Dick ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 23:09:52 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: More on Cell Size In-Reply-To: <200208070444.g774diaI000542@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dick Allen and All: Dick you just wrote on two different modes of combs being drawn out that although contradictory in appearance, actually are not. This is how the bees work, it's just learning the different aspects of each drawing mode that is hard to understand. Regards, Dee A. Lusby __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 22:35:22 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: More on Cell Size In-Reply-To: <20020803.115717.-4000777.0.BWrangler@juno.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Frank and Dennis and all: I beleive Frank wrote: My experience indicates that bees do draw different size cells in different areas of the hive for different purposes. The smallest cells are in the broodnest area. Cells on the periphery are larger drone cells and honey storage cells. That's why it's so difficult to get them to draw one size cell consistently across a frame which can be interchangeable used throughout the hive. Reply: This is true to a large degree. Namely that smallest cells are in the broodnest and the combs near the periphery are larger drone/honey storage cells somewhat. But actually even in keeping this in mind, it IS NOT difficult to get bees to draw one size consistently across a whole frame which can be interchangeable and used throughout the whole colony. Normally these are the workerbrood combs that are drawn consistant in the very center of the broodnest. Dennis then wrote: I think the concept of a moveable, completely interchangeable frame anywhere within the hive creates some problems these problems. When a larger cell comb is placed in the broodnest mites get out of control. When the smaller cell is placed in the honey super the effects on the bees are unknown but it can be more difficult to extract. Reply: Yes I agree that placement of enlarged combs into the broodnest area enhances parasitic mite problems and secondary diseases also. I would also agree that smaller cells are more difficult to extract. However, I think that the effects on the bees using small cell combs are positive for placement of these combs all the way up through the honey supers, as this would be similar to comb size placement found in wild colonies hanging from trees on limbs, and more comparable to working an unlimited broodnest type of beekeeping. Dennis also wrote: The difficulty in getting the bees to construct one size cell indicates to me that more than cell size is important. . . . Would the bees occupy an area of the hive in the spring and raise larger bees there? Reply: Yes more then one size is important, but also so is understanding the timing triggering their construction so beekeepers know when to attempt to draw each with their bees. Would the bees occupy an area of the hive in the spring to raise larger bees. Normally smallest combs and cells are used first. This fact has been known since the early 1900s. Then as the season progresses with the bees work they work into the mode of making bigger combs as major honey flows come on also signaling drone rearing time after sufficiant workers have been produced. Dennis further noted: Some on BioBee have noted in discussion that not only do feral hives comb structure vary vertically, but the comb spacing often varies horizontally. Could a horizontal dynamics be also possible? Reply: Yes, as spacing changes with size, besides breeding parameters and diet through foraging changes. Sincerely, Dee A. Lusby __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:25:23 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lionel Evans Subject: Re: Hmong MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a friend in Chaska,Minn from whom they could get local honey if that is close to Dakota County. Where is Dakota Co? Chaska is about 45 miles southwest of Minneapolis. His name is Scott Herrmann. His e-mail is scotthe2rma2n@aol.com Lionel Evans Athens, AL. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 13:25:05 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Barry Birkey Subject: Re: More on Cell Size In-Reply-To: <20020809053522.62759.qmail@web12404.mail.yahoo.com> Mime-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Dee wrote: > This is true to a large degree. Namely that smallest cells > are in the broodnest and the combs near the periphery are > larger drone/honey storage cells somewhat. But actually > even in keeping this in mind, it IS NOT difficult to get > bees to draw one size consistently across a whole frame > which can be interchangeable and used throughout the whole > colony. Normally these are the workerbrood combs that are > drawn consistant in the very center of the broodnest. Actually, it is becoming obvious by most, who are using the 4.9 foundation, that it is difficult to get full frames of drawn comb that is true 4.9 in cell size. This is how this whole discussion came up on the BioBee list. Some of us have tried putting foundation in the broodnest at the appropriate time (spring when brooding is on the rise and pollen and nectar is available), only to have it drawn poorly, or with cell sizes other than 4.9. I'm not intending to poor cold water on the small cell issue, but I do want to be open about what is happening with those going through this process, as it is not just a simple matter of putting bees on small cell foundation and all problems are over. If one has a colony of bees already on 4.9 cell size and attempts are made to get them to draw more comb of the same size by putting it into the brood area and they end up drawing it larger, what does this say? Why shouldn't we let them draw the larger cell size if this is what they are wanting to do at that point in time? Perhaps they feel they have enough small brood cells for their needs and now honey cell size is what they need. Can we not let them have roughly the two sizes for the different needs? Will they not be able to manage these two sizes themselves? Has this ever been studied to see if they will handle the mite just fine while still using both small and large cells within the hive? Most agree that it's the small cells that have been missing in our hives for many years. Does that mean now that all the cells in the hive need to be small, or will simply adding this missing size back into the hive be enough to bring them back into balance? If it is so hard to get hives made up of all 4.9 comb, maybe we should look closer at why this is. Regards, Barry ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 21:21:14 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Do we have any experts on UK pollen? I have recently noticed an unusual colour pollen in two of my apiaries, both in combs and on the varroa floor. The colour, a purple/blue, is an exact match for Campanula as shown in Dorothy Hodges 'Pollen Loads of the Honeybee', but the shape of the pollen grains is completely different from Campanula - the nearest that I can find is Sainfoin as shown in Rex Sawyer's 'Pollen Identification for Beekeepers'. The apiaries are about 3 miles apart, so could have worked the same source, and I suspect that it came in during late June/early July. Any thoughts would be welcome! Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 13:12:48 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Dillon Subject: Re: Do we have any experts on UK pollen? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Peter, I have had bees collect small quantities of pollen with a metallic blue colouration from Phacelia tenacetifolia - planted as a green manure. The bees will work this plant extensively when it is present. Maybe you have a farmer who has planted a small area in your locality! Peter ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 16:25:16 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Beenetuk Host Organization: ZbeeNet computer networking for beekeepers Subject: National Honey Show 2002 2002 National Honey Show LONDON UK 14-16th November 2002 A massive honey show with International Classes! Opener: His Honour Judge David Smith QC Awards: Richard Jones the Director of IBRA Venue: Kensington Town Hall, Hornton Street, London, England UK Dates: 14th -16th November, Thursday - Saturday Times: Thursday 2:00pm-7pm, Friday 9:30am -7pm, Saturday 9:00am -5pm Admission: £10.00 Children under 16 and Members FREE Download schedule files and information about the National from the website http://www.honeyshow.co.uk Beekeepers and traders exhibit from around the globe with the best in beekeeping products and equipment. A friendly welcome awaits all international visitors. Regards, Steven Turner in London (publicity) .. When you go in search of honey all you get is spam. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 18:53:07 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Murray McGregor Subject: Re: Do we have any experts on UK pollen? In-Reply-To: <001801c23fe2$b4ca22a0$c5a7193e@oemcomputer> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii;format=flowed In article <001801c23fe2$b4ca22a0$c5a7193e@oemcomputer>, Peter Edwards writes >The colour, a purple/blue, is an exact match for Campanula as shown in >Dorothy Hodges 'Pollen Loads of the Honeybee', but the shape of the pollen >grains is completely different from Campanula - the nearest that I can find >is Sainfoin as shown in Rex Sawyer's 'Pollen Identification for Beekeepers'. > >The apiaries are about 3 miles apart, so could have worked the same source, >and I suspect that it came in during late June/early July. Hello Peter, This is almost certainly Phacelia tancetifolia, the tansy-leaved Phacelia. Widely grown in parts of Europe as a cover crop on set-aside ground, it has ferny foliage at first, then opens into a mass of pinkish purple flowers, the heads of which unroll, like a fern, as the flowers open in succession. Normally sown in late April or early May, it generally starts to flower in early July in these parts. It is SERIOUSLY attractive to bees, and any other pollinators that may be around, and in the right conditions the whole field buzzes with all the insect life. The pollen varies in colour according to how the light catches it, appearing anything from black to vivid purple, but I could best describe it really as navy purple, but brighter and bluer in direct bright sunlight. It is very unusual and is a useful marker as to how far the bees will fly. Two years ago we had a small block in the middle of an area we frequent, and considerable amounts of this were coming into apiaries fully 9 miles apart, from opposite sides of the field. In 1998 there was a single field in our area, and an apiary at 5.5 miles away, including crossing a small hill, had several colonies bringing home some of this pollen. In this 1998 case a local farmer and ourselves co-operated in planting 55 acres of this stuff on one field, and we put in 44 hives of bees. In 3 weeks they produced 1.75 tonnes of nice white honey, so the nectar potential should also be remembered. In the last two years we have had a few humid days whilst it was flowering, and for a brief while the rate of nectar gathering was enormous. Help your local farmer by subsidising the seed a bit and you will get a major reward in yield most years. Seed available from most agricultural seed merchants, cost around GBP 8 per kilo, and 3 kilos can do a hectare, although double that rate can be even better. You must have a little of this somewhere in your vicinity. -- Murray McGregor ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 11:40:42 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Keith Malone Subject: Re: Do we have any experts on UK pollen? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Peter & All, > I have recently noticed an unusual colour pollen in two of my apiaries, both > in combs and on the varroa floor. > > The colour, a purple/blue > Peter, do you have Willow Herb (Fireweed Here in Alaska) near your Apiaries? Fireweed pollen changes color as it dries and gets older, it starts out blue on the bees pollen baskets and turns purple and then nearly black when dry. . .. c(((([ Keith Malone Chugiak, Alaska USA kdmalone@ideafamilies.org http://takeoff.to/alaskahoney http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Norlandbeekeepers/ Check out current weather in my area and 5 day forecast; http://www.wx.com/myweather.cfm?ZIP=99654 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2002 21:31:00 -0400 Reply-To: bees@oldmoose.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Beekeeper Guy Organization: Bees-r-us Subject: Extractor needed - Massachusetts USA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Attn. Massachusetts USA beekeepers... I am still on my quest for an extractor. Add to this the fact that I was "downsized" from my paying job a couple of weeks ago, and... Does someone 1.) know of a place that will rent a motorized extractor for a day or 2.) does someone have a motorized extractor that I could borrow for a day? I am 20 miles west of Boston, right on the Pike. Thanks. --glen ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 09:43:53 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: DONALD M CAMPBELL Subject: Re: Sting Reaction Hi Coleene, I have had many similar experience. Most stings are mild but every once in a while I get a severe swelling reaction like yours. I think it depends on the location of the sting, how much venom was injected and my immune state at the time. Some stings I received are like insect bites- small reaction and gone on 3 days. Other are like what you described, severe swelling in a large part of the body near the site. ( half an arm, lower leg, ect.) A face sting is the worst, because of the large capillaries located in the head and neck, and the possibility that the swelling can cause breathing problems. So always use the headnet!! It might be a good idea to get an EpiPen. Ask your MD for a prescription. Its a auto-injection of epinephrine. Only for life threating swelling or allergic reactions. I will sometimes use liquid benadryl (needs no prescription) if I feel the sting will cause problems. Benadryl's antihistamine effects will mute a great deal of the first 4 hours of reaction to the sting. I hope this helps. Don Campbell Pharmacist and Beekeeper! ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 09:32:43 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Rodney Angell Subject: Honey for allergies. In-Reply-To: Automatic digest processor 's message of Sun, 11 Aug 2002 00:00:06 -0400 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) I would like to know the recommended amount of honey to take daily to help stop allergies. Thanks Rodney Angell ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 09:28:20 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Rodney Angell Subject: How can I get dark honey? In-Reply-To: Automatic digest processor 's message of Sun, 11 Aug 2002 00:00:06 -0400 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) I live in mid-Missouri. I have 14 hives and all produce light colored honey. I have several people requesting a more robust, dark honey. Is there a way to make my bees produce dark honey or in the area I am in, am I destined only to have light colored honey? Thanks, Rodney Angell ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 11:53:50 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Karen Oland Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? In-Reply-To: <24395-3D567484-3065@storefull-2217.public.lawson.webtv.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >From: Rodney Angel >Is there a way to make my bees produce dark honey Plant a large area of buckwheat. Let the nearly black honey mix with your light - that should darken it up. It may not be what they are looking for, however, as buckwheat has a strong taste. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 18:12:44 +0100 Reply-To: Ruary Rudd Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Ruary Rudd Subject: Re: Do we have any experts on UK pollen? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The trouble with the diagnosis of Phacelia as the query pollen is that Sawyer gives the shape of this honey as 'Round', whereas I gather the shape of the pollen which Peter is looking at is 'Long', Since Peter has looked up the same books as I have I cannot go further than this. Ruary Rudd ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 17:21:04 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: david flathman Subject: Re: Extractor needed - Massachusetts USA Comments: To: bees@OLDMOOSE.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed if you go to www.beesource.com they have instruction and plans on how to build an extractor. much cheaper than buying one and less hassle than borrowing one. david _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 16:25:45 -0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Eunice Wonnacott Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Buckwheat or Goldenrod produce dark honey, with a stronger but very pleasant flavor. For some it is, of course, an acquired taste. The Russians are major producers of buckwheat honey, and they have done a lot of experimentation on the nectar content of various varieties of buckwheat. Worth learning about for another season. Eunice ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 16:38:44 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mark Coldiron Organization: The Little/Coldiron Farm Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brood comb honey is darker and more robust. West Texas Mark > >From: Rodney Angel > >Is there a way to make my bees produce dark honey ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 17:23:47 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mark Payton Subject: Re: no brood-what should I do? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Just as a follow-up for the folks who responded and any other newbies out there... I checked the hive today, getting ready to follow George's advice and put a frame of eggs/young larva from my other hive and found a modest nest of very young larva. Looks like I did have a swarm and a new queen. Thanks again for all the help. Mark Payton PS I apologize if this is a duplicate. I'm having SMTP server problems. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 14:53:18 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: dan hendricks Subject: no brood-what should I do? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Mark, George was right, of course, in his description of how to diagnose a queenless problem. Not commented on so far is the effect of elapsed time. Every day bees are dying as a result of each completing her normal life span. So as you go through the steps of diagnosis, the population is dwindling. This is why I am quick to buy a new mated queen instead of waiting to see what happens. This has happened to me many times and more often than not my new store-bought queen gets killed! I still do it, though, to make the best use of the population which remains. Queen breeders must love guys like me! Dan --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs, a Yahoo! service - Search Thousands of New Jobs ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 07:35:49 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen Oland wrote: > > >From: Rodney Angel > >Is there a way to make my bees produce dark honey > > Plant a large area of buckwheat. Let the nearly black honey mix with your > light - that should darken it up. It may not be what they are looking for, > however, as buckwheat has a strong taste. The key phrase there is "It may not be what they are looking for" and I nominate it as the most understated comment ever posted on the BeeL :) I planted it as a cover crop but decided to let it flower and collect seeds for future planting. I understood that buckwheat honey was a delicacy in northern New York, so looked forward to trying it. I threw away the seeds. Bill Truesdell Bath, Maine ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 08:02:49 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Borst Subject: Honey Bee Genome Project Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Apparently the mapping of the Honey Bee Genome is on the horizon. Why? Here's a clue: >Specific biological rationales for the utility of new sequence data > >1.Improving human health: > >Novel antibiotics. > >Increased drug resistance by pathogenic bacteria has created an >urgent demand for new antibiotics. Insects are among the more >promising sources of novel antibiotics 1 and honey bees likely offer >a rich source because of their sociality. Like humans, honey bees >live in a social environment with nearly ideal conditions for growth >and transmission of pathogens. Food is constantly shared among >individuals, the beehive is maintained at a temperature of 33 C (93 >F)and 95% relative humidity,and population densities are >mind-boggling (as many as 50,000 adults and 50,000 juveniles at >densities equivalent to ca.15 adult humans in a 6 x 4 m apartment). >Although afflicted with many diseases,honey bees must have evolved >many powerful antibacterial peptides to cope with the huge number of >pathogens that would thrive in such conditions. Interest in this >topic is increasing,but a HBGP is necessary for *efficient genomic >bio-prospecting*. from: Proposal for the Sequencing of a New Target Genome: White Paper for a Honey Bee Genome Project The Honey Bee Genome Sequencing Consortium by G.E.Robinson, K.Aronstein, J.E.Evans, S.E.Fahrbach, S.K.Johnston, R.Maleszka, R.E.Page, H.M.Robertson, D.B.Weaver -- Peter Borst ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 08:18:21 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Borst Subject: Re: Honey Bee Genome Project Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" >Dear Panel Members: > >I write to enthusiastically and unequivocally endorse the Honey Bee >Genome Project (HBGP).The beekeeping industry in the United States, >and the critical pollination services provided to agriculture and >the entire ecosystem, will reap substantial benefits from a HBGP. > >As a honey bee breeder, I am particularly excited about what the >sequence information could do to accelerate breeding superior honey >bees. The information gleaned from the HBGP will dramatically >improve our ability to develop new strains of honey bees that resist >parasites and disease, tolerate insecticide exposure and exhibit >reduced defensive behavior. > >Daniel Weaver >beeweaver@tca.net >beeweaver.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 08:03:25 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mark Coldiron Organization: The Little/Coldiron Farm Subject: Stimulating Comb Prduction MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was asked this question and wasn't sure of the answer. Does 2:1 sugar syrup stimulate the workers wax glands, thus stimulating comb building? I told him I couldn't think of a reason to use 2:1 for comb production since 1:1 is so much cheaper. But after thinking about it, I realized I don't know if 2:1 will stimulate the wax glands or not. I also don't know if 2:1 has other uses other than building up brood chamber stores for the Winter. Answer? Comments? West Texas Mark ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 22:21:27 -0700 Reply-To: lithar@hcis.net Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: AL Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Eunice Wonnacott wrote: > Buckwheat or Goldenrod produce dark honey, with a stronger but very pleasant > flavor. For some it is, of course, an acquired taste. > Hmmm, that has a familiar ring... I would vote for the buckwheat - its a *great* topping for waffles & pancakes. It also makes a nice adjunct to homebrew. Although I can't seem to tune my taste buds to the flavor of goldenrod, I have been so encouraged by recent posts supporting the stuff, I'm straining a batch for sale this week. AL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 15:27:24 +0100 Reply-To: max.watkins@vita-europe.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Max Watkins Subject: Re: Coumaphos Resistance In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom, As you say, it would be best to use a variety or an "alternance" of treatments in an integrated approach to varroa control, wherever possible. The pyrethroid resistance in the UK is [currently]limited to an area around the Devon/Cornwall borders and its appearance was not created but was accelerated by the mis-use of hive treatments. Resistant mites could indeed spread to Ireland just as easy as non-resistant varroa did but the risk of a home-grown resistant strain emerging can be offset by using different biomechanical techniques such as drone trapping, use of OMFs etc and legal hive treatments. Rotation of treatments will help suppress any imported resistant strains also. At present there is only one treatment available to Irish beekeepers but our thymol gel product APIGUARD is under registration as a veterinary medicine in Ireland (and indeed across Europe)and will be available to you very shortly. This alternative treatment works well against pyrethroid and organophosphate-resistant mites so will be a useful tool for beekeepers internationally. Don't know about Irish conditions, but it works well in my native country, Wales, and we have only marginally less rainfall and foul weather than you! Best regards,. Max Dr Max Watkins Vita (Europe) Limited 21/23 Wote Street Basingstoke Hampshire RG21 7NE UK tel. +44 (0)1256 473177 fax +44 (0)1256 473179 e-mail: max.watkins@vita-europe.com web: http://www.vita-europe.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 20:10:36 +0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: George Tamas Subject: stimulating comb production MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable As far as I know all sugar syrup do stimulate the bees,including the = bees wax glands so comb production.In my opinion 1:1 sugar syrup is = similar to nectar gather by bees and you can call it "artificial = nectar".The strenth of sugar syrup -in my opinion-depends on the season = you feed your bees and for what are you looking for:brood rearing -in = the spring,or winter stores-in the autumn. George ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 10:04:28 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Hensler Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Truesdell" in regards to buckwheat honey: > The key phrase there is "It may not be what they are looking for" and I > nominate it as the most understated comment ever posted on the BeeL :) > > I planted it as a cover crop but decided to let it flower and collect > seeds for future planting. I understood that buckwheat honey was a > delicacy in northern New York, so looked forward to trying it. > > I threw away the seeds. FWIW our experience with buckwheat honey has been exactly the opposite. We market our honey as "Light," "Amber," "Dark Amber," and "Dark," in order to stress the differences in taste, sorta like beer is brewed and marketed. Buckwheat is a vital component, as are various nursery and wildflowers, to the darker blends. It is extremely rare to be able to harvest anything even close to pure buckwheat honey with our spread-out nectar flow here, although I wish we could. Almost without exception folks will originally purchase the "Light" honey, but after a free sample will quickly move on to the darker blends (at a premium price, of course) due to the more distinct flavor - much like comparing the beginning beer drinker to the veteran beer connoisseur. IMHO buckwheat *can* provide a vital component in honey production as it is an easy crop to cultivate, it produces a strong nectar flow and it has a short growth cycle. In addition, it can either be a timed planting to provide a flow during what would otherwise be a slack time in production, or multiple plantings can be spread out in order to spread the flow throughout the year. We throw away the seeds too - back into the seed bed... :-) Skip Skip & Christy Hensler THE ROCK GARDEN Newport, WA http://www.povn.com/rock/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 19:03:59 +0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: George Tamas Subject: dark honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Bill, Dark honey,honey dew,is a honey produce by bees visiting the trees' = leaves. Honey dew is you can say "animal honey" because is produce by insects = named Lachnide and Lecanide. This insects live on the leaf of trees eat = the sap from the leaf .The sap is very sweet but the insects use only 10 = percent of it the rest is gather by bees. There are conditions honey dew = to be produce by insects:very hot days and cold nights.This year was a = good year for honey dew in my area ARAD, ROMANIA. I have plenty of honey = dew in my hives but the problem is I have to get rid of it because you = can't winter on honey dew because content of higher wich bees can't = digest. George ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 12:00:23 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Forrest Zielke Subject: Re: More on Cell Size MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/9/02 3:52:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, barry@BIRKEY.COM writes: > I'm not intending to poor cold water on the small cell issue, but I do > want > to be open about what is happening with those going through this process, as > it is not just a simple matter of putting bees on small cell foundation and > all problems are over. > Hello > > When I first started to downsize a few years ago, I happened to read a > medical paper about a lady who received a hart and lung transplant. When > she first awakened from surgery, she said she would die for a beer. This > lady never before had a drink of beer. She also had a craving for chicken > nuggets. > Through her research (newspapers) she found her donor to be a young man > killed in a motorcycle accident. She received permission to talk to his > parents. He lived on beer and chicken nuggets. I discussed this with > doctors and they say it is common. They call this Body Cell Memory. > This made me think of the mechanisms in play when one down sizes bees. > Are they making the cell size smaller from memory or is it body cell > memory? I placed two boxes with 4.9 foundation next to each other and shook > a hive into each one. They both did a very bad job of drawing out the > foundation. I waited until the first brood was ready to emerge. I then > shook one of the hives onto another box of 4.9 foundation. No new bees. > Again, they drew out the foundation very poorly. It looked like the first > foundation they drew out. > I shook the other hive onto 4.9 foundation after it was more established > and the new brood had emerged. They did a much better job of drawing the > foundation. It was a little mixed but there were more cells 4.9 or close to > 4.9. This may not have been very scientific, but I did learn that it may be > the bees with 4.9 body cell memory that are doing a better job at drawing > out the foundation. > The year before all this, I shook two hives down onto the Dadant 4.9 > foundation, which turned out to be 5.0 or the 900 series. I went back to > those records and photos. The bees drew out the 900 foundation nicely. A > large percentage of the cells were 5.0 or just slightly bigger. The next > shakedown onto 4.9 foundation was also very good. What did this tell me? > The first down size onto 5.0 foundation gave me a larger amount of new bees > emerging with a smaller body cell size memory. There were more bees better > at drawing out true 4.9 foundation. If I shake a large cell hive directly > onto 4.9 foundation, I get very few bees with a body cell memory of small > cells. There is such a gamete of cell sizes and it took two more shake > downs to get to good 4.9 cells. > For someone thinking of down sizing, it is not easy. Most of the work can > only be done in the spring. You have to feed at all times. It will be > cheaper to down size into three or four frame nukes. You will not waste ten > sheets of foundation. Your last shake down can then be into a box with ten > frames of foundation. If body cell memory is in play, one can fine tune an > established 4.9 hive by culling out not quite perfect frames. > My off the wall reasoning. forrest > > > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 11:22:05 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Karen Oland Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? In-Reply-To: <3D579D95.904E67B6@suscom-maine.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Buckwheat does take a little adjusting of your expectations. Definitely not the worst tasting honey, even the first time I tried it. I keep some around, but then, I like dark molasses also. Our bees work Aster and goldenrod together, along with whatever else is around that time of year. Haven't tried to extract any of it, as I can't get past the smell. Also, I don't particularly want honey that crystallizes (so far, never a problem with spring/summer honey, even after 3 years). I'm thinking of planting as a cover crop and late honey source (timing for late august). How large an area would be needed to be useful? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 14:17:06 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Robert Williamson Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? Comments: To: Rodney Angell Here in southeast texas we produce an amber honey with strong flavor. The dominant floral source is the tallow tree. Robert Williamson www.texasdrone.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 11:20:24 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Hensler Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karen Oland" wrote about buckwheat: > I'm thinking of planting as a cover crop and late honey source (timing for > late august). How large an area would be needed to be useful? It would depend on how many hives you are using, what else is available for them to work during that time and how dominate you want the buckwheat flavor to be, how much land you have available for planting, and if you will need to irrigate the crop during Aug. or not. Experiment... :-) Skip & Christy Hensler THE ROCK GARDEN Newport, WA http://www.povn.com/rock/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 14:30:33 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Milt Lathan Subject: Deformed bee and no pollen Visited my two hives in the hills east of Seattle yesterday and found two curious things. 1) Deformed bees: a) looked like a field worker (smooth body) with stubby wings b) a young bee, bent at the midsection, wings only on her right side - both were crawling (spinning on the ground) and very apparently in distress. I assume some bees will be suffer some malady naturally - do I assume mites (no other evidence) and medicate? 2) Lots of field bees bringing in nectar but almost no pollen and none stored in the most active of the two hives. I've always assumed that when the bees find nectar they can find pollen - is there such a thing as pollen dearth? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 20:59:55 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: waldig Subject: Re: Sting Reaction MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > From what I've read, it's nearly impossible to predict what your reaction > to the next sting will be with complete certainty. Even testing can't > predict that the next sting will react badly when you aren't normally > allergic. My observation may be subjective but I noticed that a sting from an Italian bee has about half of the impact I get from a Carnolian bee sting. This is consitent but I have no explanation. Waldemar Long Island, NY ------------------------------------------- Introducing NetZero Long Distance Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month! Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 16:17:40 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Karen Oland Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? In-Reply-To: <003f01c2422c$edb74380$4d1a5540@hppav> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 8-12 Hives. Nothing else available at all, from mid-July until close to Sept (when goldenrod starts thinking about blooming). Would like pure buckwheat flavor (and that nice nearly black color). Irrigation is a fact of life these days, even when we aren't supposed to have to water. August is not traditionally our driest month, but last year we had zero rain the entire month (which contributed to death of even mature tulip poplar trees and quite a few locust). Our main flow is from mid-April to about July 1st (give or take a week or so), with clover and tulip poplar the main crop flows (so, my usual honey is a light to red color, depending on the year). As to available land - from 1/4 acre garden (most of it in use, however) to a couple of acres in the orchard to 10 or so that could be used (with more work, mostly mixed grass and red clover). The rest is hardwood forest with a good number of poplar trees. Since our idiot neighbors have started logging again (on extremely steep land), we don't want to lose any more of them in our area. I've experimented with anise hyssop and mountain mint, mainly to see how attractive they are and when they bloom. The bees like the mountain mint, which blooms in July, but ignore the hyssop (but, I now have a very large number of butterflies, as they love it, as well as solitary bees, hummingbird bees (snowberry clearwing moth), etc). The honey bees ignore it, despite its reputation. Echinacea, said to be attractive to butterflies, is well liked by the honey bees; however, it can be somewhat expensive to put in an acre of it (although a good potential return in a few years, if kept weed free). All three of these, however, would need no irrigation after the first year and are perennial. -----Original Message----- From: Hensler > I'm thinking of planting as a cover crop and late honey source (timing for > late august). How large an area would be needed to be useful? It would depend on how many hives you are using, what else is available for them to work during that time and how dominate you want the buckwheat flavor to be, how much land you have available for planting, and if you will need to irrigate the crop during Aug. or not. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 17:54:42 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: greg roody Subject: Re: Extractor needed - Massachusetts USA Comments: To: bees@OLDMOOSE.COM In-Reply-To: <3D55BE53.64ACFC8@oldmoose.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lagrants (Ware Mass, Lagrants@aol.com) will rent a complete outfit (3/6 frame extractor, bucket with grant, electric knife, two stage ss filter, scratcher, etc.) for $36/motorized for three days or $25 manual. He's about 30 min's from exit 8 on the pike. If important, the one I got was a maxant 3100 (I think). >Does someone 1.) know of a place that will rent a motorized extractor for a day ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 16:47:09 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Rodney, > I would like to know the recommended amount of honey to take daily to help stop allergies. Most people recommend a teaspoon to a tablespoon once a day for a month before the start of allergy season. Raw honey from a local source is best. Late season unprocessed, not heated and not pressure filtered Wildflower with suspended pollen is what I sell to people wanting help with their allergies (EVEN IN SPRING AND SUMMER). I have had a couple people say their allergies almost went away after only several days but when asked I give the above advice. Hundreds of people have told me my honey has helped with their allergies. One lady said she had been to many doctors and still had cold like symptoms during the ragweed season. She thought she would have to be miserable during allergy season until she happened by my stand one day. She followed my advice and now only has a stuffy nose at times during allergy season. She quit seeing her allergy doctor! Late season Missouri wildflower will be dark if you put your supers on in September. Many simply leave supers on till late September but the supers still contain a large amount of light clover honey so not a true wildflower honey. Producing true wildflower can cost you your hives by not being able to do fall meds early enough. Yellow flowers produce dark honey in Missouri . Sincerely, Bob Harrison ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 22:28:49 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Phil Moore Subject: Re: Sting Reaction MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > My observation may be subjective but I noticed that a sting from an Italian > bee has about half of the impact I get from a Carnolian bee sting. This is > consitent but I have no explanation. > > Waldemar > Long Island, NY I have noticed the same thing with Italians they seem to be have less painful stings compared to both the Buckfast (sting rarely) and local A.m.melifera (sting regularly) in fact according to the test for AHB in the states my remaining meilifera would easily qualify with over stings per inspection. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:24:30 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Robt Mann Subject: Re: Honey Bee Genome Project In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Daniel Weaver >beeweaver.com wrote: >>I write to enthusiastically and unequivocally endorse the Honey Bee >>Genome Project (HBGP). The beekeeping industry in the United States, >>and the critical pollination services provided to agriculture and >>the entire ecosystem, will reap substantial benefits from a HBGP. >> >>As a honey bee breeder, I am particularly excited about what the >>sequence information could do to accelerate breeding superior honey >>bees. The information gleaned from the HBGP will dramatically >>improve our ability to develop new strains of honey bees that resist >>parasites and disease, tolerate insecticide exposure and exhibit >>reduced defensive behavior. What are the facts & reasoning behind this excitation? The wish list stated at the end is just that. After several years of similar excitement about the human 'genome project' (i.e DNA sequencing), which was similarly promised to produce numerous benefits, we have today little reason to believe that any benefits are emerging. Supposing complete 'sequence information' on bee DNA had been produced; how could that sequence of letters (which you can safely assume to be in just the 4-letter alphabet beloved of the sequencing industry) be used for any purpose such as stated by Daniel? His language ('dramatically' etc) is that of PR, not of science. R ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 22:17:12 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: no brood-what should I do? Many beekeepers seem to have great problems in deciding whether a colony is really queenless, is broodless because a new queen has not yet started laying, or has a queen that has stopped laying - perhaps because of unfavourable conditions. Whilst this is not always easy to diagnose - and even experienced beekeepers can misread the colony - there are many clues that can help. Firstly, I think that it helps to know at what has happened in the preceding few weeks. For example, if the colony has swarmed then it is reasonable to expect that there will be a new queen in there somewhere; the important thing is to know how long ago she hatched, because queens that do not start laying within about 3 weeks are rarely, in my experience, likely to have mated properly. So what are these signs that we can read? A colony with a good queen that has not yet started laying will polish cells ready for her to lay eggs. They may be 'edgy' (colonies without brood in all stages sometimes are), but they are unlikely to be very bad tempered. Colonies that are really hopelessly queenless (i.e. no eggs or young brood from which to rear a queen) may be bad-tempered, will have empty brood cells that are dull and unpolished, will cover their pollen stores with honey (it will have a wet look and after being queenless for some time they may thicken the edges of the cells in which the pollen is stored), may make a low moaning sound - yes, the colony really sounds unhappy - and finally, perhaps the most reliable sign, when combs are removed for examination, bees will stand on the comb and fan their wings rather in a listless way (not like they do when scenting). The next stage is the appearance of eggs from laying workers. In my experience, it is rarely worth trying to re-queen hopelessly queen less colonies; better to shake them out and let them beg their way into neighbouring hives. You can then use the hive to set up a new colony with brood in all stages and young bees - this is much more likely to accept your new queen. So my advice would be to learn to read the signs, rather than rush off to buy a new queen. Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 20:04:10 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: Honey Bee Genome Project MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, Robert wrote: > Supposing complete 'sequence information' on bee DNA had been produced; how could that sequence of letters (which you can safely assume to be in just the 4-letter alphabet beloved of the sequencing industry) be used for any purpose such as stated by Daniel? His language ('dramatically' etc) is that of PR, not of science. I agree Robert. On the other hand I (like Danny) am excited about the project and am optimistic about the project. Danny with his efforts got the honey bee genome project ahead of many other genome projects. Why not honey bee genome? Danny Weaver is not on the list to my knowledge but I have heard Danny talk about the project before (Savannah 2002)so will comment for him. Danny is also doing research on controlled breeding under a three acre (I hope the size is correct) tent like affair in Texas. Danny Weaver (of one of the oldest beekeeping families in the U.S.) is optimistic about the future of beekeeping. Although commercial beekeeper numbers have gotten smaller I can safely say there are many outstanding young beekeepers stepping up to take the top spots in the industry in the U.S.. Danny Weaver, Clint Walker and Gus Rouse to name only a few. Quite a bit of exciting honey bee research is going on in the U.S.. Jerry B. is about to share his research with the world before long. Sincerely, Bob Harrison ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 17:56:33 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Eugene Makovec Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. In-Reply-To: <24398-3D56758B-960@storefull-2217.public.lawson.webtv.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I have heard a teaspoon per day most commonly. I had been selling to a couple of people who swear it helps their allergies. Then, last week I was talking to my new neighbor who is a pediatrition. (My wife had walked over with a bottle of honey when they moved in.) He told me about a family whose two children he had seen as patients. Both had suffered from severe airborne allergies (with one even hospitalized briefly at one point), but had begun taking local honey, a teaspoon per day, and are now off all prescription medications. The doctor was very impressed, and asked if I could supply honey for his two young children, who suffer less serious allergies. Of course, I'll be happy to oblige! Eugene --- Rodney Angell wrote: > I would like to know the recommended amount of honey > to take daily to > help stop allergies. > Thanks > Rodney Angell __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 01:33:27 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: James Kilty Subject: Re: Coumaphos Resistance Comments: To: max.watkins@vita-europe.com In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 In message , Max Watkins writes >The pyrethroid resistance in the UK is [currently]limited to an area around >the Devon/Cornwall borders Now at Redruth. I don't know if it is the same chap who brought varroa down here by taking swarms from an infected area in the fist place, but if he continued to do so .... > and its appearance was not created but was >accelerated by the mis-use of hive treatments. One near neighbour has such bad tempered bees that he slips the treatments in the entrance at night and leaves them in permanently, hence the numbers of strips increase over the years. He takes his honey and runs. -- James Kilty ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 20:30:47 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: dark honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit George, They are talking about DARK HONEY, not honey dew! Much has been said about the almost black buckwheat honey, which I sell, but don't care for myself. My personal favorite honey is a DARK honey with a red caste in the sunlight - tulip poplar. I my experience, the great majority of beekeepers prefer the darker honeys for their eating, while casual honey eaters usually want a light honey like clover or black locust, something that is just 'sweet" without a lot of honey flavor. George Imirie Certified EAS Master Beekeeper Author of George's Pink Pages ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:05:30 -0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Eunice Wonnacott Subject: Re: How can I get dark honey? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Have bought that at a local roadside stand. One of the best honey flavours I have ever tried. Unfortunately eastern Canada is too far away to ejnoy it often ! Eunice ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 15:59:34 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "adrian m. wenner" Subject: Smoke and bees In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.1.20020808112438.02243920@pop.lmi.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" MEA McNeil recently asked: >The New York Times ran a long article 7-3--02, D1, on John Miller of Miller >Honey Farms in Gackle, ND, a migratory beekeeper and large honey producer. >Is it true, as the article states, that the way smoke works is that it "disrupts the pheromones in the hive" Peter Borst replied, in part: My own theory, developed over almost 30 years of beekeeping, is this: ordinary smoke intoxicates honey bees. They exhibit symptoms very similar to intoxication in animals: dulled responses, delayed reaction time, etc. I believe the gorging is a result of lowered inhibition. ********* My experience indicates that smoke momentarily dulls the senses of guard bees. I even had similar success with a yellow jacket wasp colony. However, smoke seemed to have no effect whatever on Santa Cruz Island honey bees. Be sure to read James Fischer's excellent article, "Blowin' Smoke" in the August issue of BEE CULTURE. Adrian -- Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home office phone) 967 Garcia Road wenner@lifesci.ucsb.edu Santa Barbara, CA 93103 www.beesource.com/pov/wenner/index.htm **************************************************************************** * * "T'is the majority [...that] prevails. Assent, and you are sane * Demur, you're straightway dangerous, and handled with a chain." * * Emily Dickinson, 1862 * **************************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 22:45:34 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: Honey Bee Genome Project In-Reply-To: <000a01c24265$5c412ae0$80ac58d8@BusyBeeAcres> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Bob: You are right about Danny Weaver's advocacy of the bee genome project. He also worked hard to keep the bee labs open. The TENT is part of the support system for our DARPA funded research. It's aat SwRI (Southwest Research Institute) in San Antonio. Gerry Loper was working with us (UM) and wondered if the TENT might work for breeding queens. He went over and talked with Danny, and together we conducted some mating trials. Bit of a mixed bag for results, but good enough for Gerry to get some industry $$ to build a tent in Tucson - more convenient than San Antonio and more control. The DARPA TENT has had lots of other things competing for use. However, the DARPA TENT may become available for other users soon, as the DARPA project that built it winds to a close. The TENT is 1 acre, 210 Ft per side, 40 ft tall in middle, 30 ft tall at sides. Area under the TENT is 1/2 scrub oak, 1/2 open grass. Anyone wanting to conduct trials in the TENT should contact me. I will put them in contact with the proper folks at SwRI. Cheers Jerry P.S. The TENT fabric was sized to be honey bee tight. It does reduce solar radiation by about 50%. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 06:44:26 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Tim Vaughan Subject: Re: Deformed bee and no pollen Milt, I think you should treat for mites. Just this week, I saw a few deformed bees just like last year when I had a big problem with mites, and sure enough, one of the hives I went through had lots of mites, with many of the newly emerged workers with deformed wings. Actually, I see this as a good chance for productive culling, as only a small percentage of my hives have mites. As to the bees not bringing in much pollen, have you checked for brood? Often a queenless hive will bring in less pollen than it's neighbor. Regards. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 21:24:01 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: Deformed bee and no pollen Sounds like Deformed Wing Virus, spread by varroa. Treatment is urgent when this appears. Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Milt Lathan" To: Sent: 12 August 2002 19:30 Subject: [BEE-L] Deformed bee and no pollen > Visited my two hives in the hills east of Seattle yesterday and found two > curious things. > > 1) Deformed bees: > a) looked like a field worker (smooth body) with stubby wings > b) a young bee, bent at the midsection, wings only on her right side - > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 20:35:11 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Deformed bee and no pollen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Milt, Many, many plants produce nectar, but little or no pollen Some plants produce pollen ONLY, but no nectar. Better do some reading about nectar and pollen plants. George ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 01:52:14 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Allen Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. A co-worker buys honey from me for his wife who takes a tablespoon or so each day and swears it has cured her allergy problems. Another co-worker, hearing of her success, asked me to keep bees on his property so as to receive some of the honey for his allergies. He has taken the honey and says it has done no good at all. Dick ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 02:17:44 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Allen Subject: Re: dark honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit George Tamas wrote: Honey dew is you can say "animal honey" because is produce by insects named Lachnide and Lecanide. To which George Imirie replied: They are talking about DARK HONEY, not honey dew! >From the FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin 124 of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations honey is defined as: “Honey is the natural sweet substance produced by honeybees from the nectar of blossoms or from secretions of living parts of plants or excretions of plant sucking insects on the living parts of plants, which honeybees collect, transform and combine with specific substances of their own, store and leave in the honey comb to ripen and mature.” Subsidiary Definitions and Designations: “Blossom Honey or Nectar Honey is the honey which comes from nectaries of flowers” “Honeydew Honey is the honey which comes mainly from secretions of living parts of plants or excretions of plant sucking insects on the living parts of plants. Its colour varies from very light brown or greenish to dark brown.” Honeydew honey has a more complex arrangement of sugars than does nectar honey because two sets of enzymes, those of the hemipterous insects and of the honey bee, are involved. Honeydew honey also has a higher ash (mineral) content than does floral honey. Because of its higher mineral content, it may (I simply said may) actually be ‘better for you’ than floral honey. Regards, Dick ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 08:42:24 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: mick bozard Subject: Swarm Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed As i drove up from yesterday, i saw across the field where my hives are a huge cloud of bees. Thousands and thousands of them whirling around. So i drove right up to them. I watched in amazement this swarm. Thoughts of, geesh this one is going to get away and prolly die from lack of storage this winter. Then all of a sudden, they all went back into the box they came from. Huh ? Go figure, a practice swarm. mick _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 18:26:20 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "g.bongard" Subject: Re: dark honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Buckwheat is gross!!!! Don't know how you guys can eat the stuff. Stinks like a pig sty and makes the honey house reak. Interesting that buckwheat is black, or nearly so, in America. Large areas are grown around my area (New Zealand) as seed multiplication for the Northern Hemisphere. The honey produced is around 35mm in colour. Really just an amber colour. Must be the different soils? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:09:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Tim Vaughan Subject: Absconding Much has been written about African scuts' tendancy to move to greener pastures during lean times, but what about EHB? Yesterday I had the fifth swarm in just a few months come to my house in town. I had assumed that it was because this is where I store my old hives and supers, but this is very late for swarms around here, and there isn't a lot of nectar. I must confess that I am somewhat sloppy with my honey shed, and there are frequently wet supers left outside, so there is usually lots to eat. It's getting to where it happens so often that when I'm at work my kids know to put a hive together fast and place it where they bees are headed. Does anyone have any ideas? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 09:25:52 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lionel Evans Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To help with allergies, a person will have to take honey for a long time. Sometimes allergies are from things that bees do not get pollen from and therefore will not help. Lionel ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 12:53:50 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Borst Subject: Re: Honey Bee Genome Project Robert wrote: His language ('dramatically' etc) is that of PR, not of science. Exactly what I thought. I guess you and I are the only ones who think that gene splicing on the honey bee *may not be such a good idea*. A lot of people, like David de Jong, think that what is needed is *less* interference, not more. That the species could improve itself and adapt, under appropriate circumstances. The prospect of invasive species from accidental introduction pales before the prospect of invasive *genes* accidently released by greedy entrepreneurs and arrogant researchers who "know" more than us, but are not subjected to adequate oversight. I think that the input of the beekeeping public should be sought out. Do we want a GM Super Bee? pb ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 13:32:27 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mea McNeil Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. In-Reply-To: <20020813005633.24525.qmail@web20607.mail.yahoo.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >people who swear it helps >their allergies. > >Eugene We, too, have people asking for honey to treat allergies. Several years ago I researched the subject at Planetree, an excellent medical reference library in San Francisco. I read numerous studies, but none with data that show that local honey relieves allergies -- yet all report the anecdotal evidence that we hear. Has subsequent research shown that such a link exists? MEA McNeil ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 17:12:31 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Karen Oland Subject: Re: dark honey In-Reply-To: <120.145db9c0.2a89ad37@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit George, I think you are absolutely correct on both counts. My honey is lighter this year, as we had a hard, late freeze just as the tulip poplar were thinking of opening. Last year, it was three solid weeks of rain during the poplar bloom, but the bees managed to get out enough to get that good red color. Looks like mostly clover this year, and not as much flavor as a result. One local packer (possibly a producer, but his honey says "packed for") has several different varieties of honey, including two kinds of cut comb. Too bad for the consumer, as a quick comparison (checked for several years running now) reveals that all of his honey (wildflower, clover, sourwoood) has the exact same coloring and approximate water concentration (which you can check by watching the air bubble after turning two upside down). I doubt those who purchase his honey at the many produce stands and flea markets see any real difference and wonder what the big to-do is about varietal honeys. And honeydew can be as dark, but the original poster asked how S/HE could get dark honey. Since the current crop is always light, I would assume there is no honeydew source close by. Attempting to introduce such a source would involve bringing in large numbers of plant pests (aphids, etc) to wound trees to cause the sap to run. Not a viable possibility. Buckwheat is a viable short term strategy, as is goldenrod (take if off in the fall and feed the bees before winter to rebuild their stores). A long-term strategy -- plant tulip poplar trees in your yard (maybe 4 or five might fit) and give seedlings away to everyone in your local "neighborhood" (defined as within 3 miles flying distance). You wont' see any honey right away, but eventually you would have a wonderful source and the neighborhood ends up with a better shade tree than those useless bradford pears everyone plants. While you are at it, give away a few willows, for use as a spring pollen source. You can get trees tremendously cheap from many state ag dept's, from organizations like the Arbor Day Foundation and from commercial nurseries. If you are more optimistic, you could even collect seed and plant from there. As to the color of buckwheat -- every place I've seen it for sale, it is jet black (darker than coffee, closer to blackstrap molasses). Perhaps it is the variety of buckwheat that is planted, rather than the soil. And, yes, the smell is "strong". Just not nearly as bad as the fall combination of goldenrod/aster/whatever that my bees work here. Karen -----Original Message----- From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM My personal favorite honey is a DARK honey with a red caste in the sunlight - tulip poplar. I my experience, the great majority of beekeepers prefer the darker honeys for their eating, while casual honey eaters usually want a light honey like clover or black locust, something that is just 'sweet" without a lot of honey flavor. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 18:28:10 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Coleene Davidson Subject: "Wintereing" article in Bee Culture Comments: To: Norlandbeekeepers@yahoogroups.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, I just read the "Wintering" article by Allen Dick in the new issue of Bee Culture and find myself in a Catch 22 situation with one of my hives. The hive came through the winter weak but since has built up to a point where they are making honey. My concern the last time I checked them was that they would become honey bound, an issue raised by Allen in the article. Short of supering which I don't want to do this late in the season, my other choice would be to pull full frames, but all I have to replace them with is foundation. If I feed heavy, will this be sufficient to keep the queen going. We are just coming out of Sweet Clover and Star Thistle and into Goldenrod. It has been a strange year for honey plants due to the weather but the bees don't seem to mind. Coleene ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 01:08:10 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Dillon Subject: Re: Honey Bee Genome Project MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With regard to the possibility of investigating the gene inventory of the honey bee - it seems to me, that this what the internet promised to give to the average PC user. Great, fantastic, opens up the world and ...... what a relative bore in comparison to the original hype. Life is life. As a community, we have not yet understood what we deal with in our hives on a daily basis - sure, questions are asked all the time - but due to restrictions arriving from diverse pressures, too much still remains to be put in place. The "thrill" of having the possibility of expanding the arena even further, I suggest would lead to a "royal knot in a proverbial ball of string" If the utopian situation arises where it may be considered that we know enough about the honey bee community - then I would endorse investigation with the aim of advancing "manipulation". I consider that this is not the case, and we are likely to bite off more than we can masticate! I think that I understand why others may wish to push for the addition to knowledge - but would suggest that unknowns are put in place before hand. Hence allowing for this technology (gene manipulation), with the time expended upon it to be beneficially used in the future. Still observing and expecting to be doing so for the next few decades with the material in hand. Peter ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 19:54:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Karen Oland Subject: Questions: Wax Melter and Separator, Cappings Spinner, dark wax In-Reply-To: <000501c2279d$d76ba520$5aae73d1@allen> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have recently acquired a wax melter and wax separator (as sold by Kelly's in KY, USA). The melter is a stainless system and works pretty well (although the gunk is not kept out of the melted wax very well). The separator is an old galvanized one, but can be painted to prevent contamination (or replaced by a newer, stainless unit, at a later time). I melted a 5-gallon pail of drained cappings and ended up with a much smaller bucket of mixed honey (bakery grade only now), wax and slum-gum. Much faster than the solar melter and able to do it all at once, rather than just as much as would fit into the bread pan (used in the solar melter as a collector). My questions: Does anyone have actual directions on how these are supposed to work, that I could get a copy of? If so, please email me directly for contact info or with a web location for said directions. Does anyone uncap directly into their melter (as Kelly suggests in their catalog)? If so, how well does it work and do you let the honey drain out for a day before melting the cappings? What height do you have the bottom of the melter? Do you use any sort of insert when uncapping, or just the screen that comes with it? How does the wax separator work? I can see where you would probably have the melted wax/honey mixture drip in on the angled part of the bucket (to prevent/reduce splatters), and presumably at some point the honey comes out the lower pipe? Is there any special setup (other than fixing some way to capture that honey) to get this working properly? What sort of limits should be followed to prevent overflow of wax in the bucket itself? Or, is the entire separator setup a waste of time (not money at this point, since it was essentially free)? I also ended up with a 2-frame (no reverse needed) stainless extractor, which I dont' need. The baskets are rusted and I don't feel like trying to rehabilitate them. I can either use it as a tank (should work great, no work involved, only have to make a top for it) or can purchase the cappings spinner from Kelly. Does anyone use the spinner? Do you like it? Do you get a large amount more honey out of it versus letting the cappings drain for a day or two? I.E., is it worth the money (other than the convenience of getting done faster, so things can be cleaned up sooner)? ----- And, last but not least, the dark wax question. I had been dropping some scrapings of wax from the brood chamber and from cleanup up some old frames into the wax melter on and off last fall and this spring. It never amounted to much and I didn't get around to retrieving it until today. There is an approximately 2" thick, bread pan shaped, loaf of chocolate wax there. A small amount of obvious sludge is on the bottom (to be cut off), while the rest seems to have incorporated the bits of propolis and other dark "stuff" into a single, uniform block of wax. Cutting through it reveals a sort of soft, uniform wax. I already have one person wanting it for crafts involving dark colored leather, so it is not a total waste. The question is, if I melt and strain it at this point, will I retain the color it is now, or will I end up with some lighter wax and a darker layer (as when doing cappings and dipping out the best yellow wax)? I actually want to retain the current color (yes, it will win no prizes among beekeepers, but crafters are a different sort entirely and will pay extra for chocolate colored wax). Any ideas or comments? Karen Oland ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 21:56:08 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Rodney Farrar Subject: Pollen Patties MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any info. on where to order supplies to make patties. Off Topic question, how can one get rid of yellow jackets? My daughter has them in a house she just bought. They seem to be going under the siding (out side) and some are getting into the house. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 18:29:00 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Richard Yarnell Organization: Oregon VOS Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.1.20020813123553.02351e10@pop.lmi.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Who's going to research it? Nothing in for the Drug companies. Not much in it for the medical profession at all. That kind of study takes funding, is complex, and in the US, not much "unfettered" money is cirulating in academia these days. We don't tout it for the purpose but have plenty of folks who swear by the method. And, from a non-scientific rube's pov it makes sense. Allergies are "treated" by exposing the patient to minute but increasing doses of the agents which cause the reaction. In unfiltered honey you have minute doses of _some_ of the agents to which patients may be alergic. Needless to say, the menu of possibilities, while long in the local plant kingdom, is woefully short on canine and feline dander and house mites. On Tue, 13 Aug 2002, Mea McNeil wrote: > >people who swear it helps their allergies. > ... Has subsequent research shown that such a link exists? --------------- Richard Yarnell, SHAMBLES WORKSHOPS | No gimmick we try, no "scientific" Beavercreek, OR. Makers of fine | fix we attempt, will save our planet Wooden Canoes, The Stack(R) urban | until we reduce the population. Let's composter, Raw Honey | leave our kids a decent place to live. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 23:50:14 -0500 Reply-To: Bob Fanning Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Fanning Subject: Potential honey customer. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just received a request, via the internet, for a price quote, from an individual, for small quantities of honey (quarts). She states "I am in Missouri, southeast of Kansas City" [USA]. Anyone located in that area who sells to individual retail customers and would like further information, please drop me a message at aapiary@hiwaay.com. If no one is interested, I can and do ship. I think it in the best interest of this customer to locate a local (to her) beekeeper. Bobby R. Fanning, K4VB Almer's Apiary Huntsville, AL 35802 USA aapiary@hiwaay.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 07:52:41 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard Yarnell wrote: > > Who's going to research it? Nothing in for the Drug companies. Not much > in it for the medical profession at all. That kind of study takes > funding, is complex, and in the US, not much "unfettered" money is > cirulating in academia these days. > Actually, you have it right here, with beekeepers. If there are beekeepers with pollen allergies and they eat their own honey, then the use of honey for treating allergies is suspect. If no beekeepers have pollen allergies, then it works just fine. I have many people ask me for my unheated honey to treat allergies. But I note that it has done nothing when it comes to ragweed and me. Bill Truesdell Bath, Me ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 07:51:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Borst Subject: Cloning the Honey Bee Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Scientists identified five genes that appear to have some link to the aggressive behavior, and one of these genes was found to have a much greater effect on the tendency to sting. "We have also mapped genes that affect levels of alarm pheromone," Hunt says. "All but one of these genes are completely independent of stinging behavior." http://www.purdue.edu/UNS/html4ever/9804.Hunt.gene.html "My lab has made the first and most comprehensive genetic maps of the honey bee genome. We have mapped genes that influence behaviors that are important for apiculture. The mapping of genes may help us understand these traits and improve honey bee stocks. Successful cloning of these genes would help to develop the honey bee as an important model organism for behavioral genetics." http://entm29.entm.purdue.edu/directory/entm/53.htm "To accelerate the molecular analysis of behavior in the honey bee (Apis mellifera), we created expressed sequence tag (EST) and cDNA microarray resources for the bee brain. Over 20,000 cDNA clones were partially sequenced from a normalized (and subsequently subtracted) library generated from adult A. mellifera brains." http://www.geneontology.org/doc/GO.biblio.html -- Peter Borst ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 08:15:23 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Honey Bee Genome Project MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The issue is mapping and the studies are really related to human activity and complex societies. And that will be a hard sell. Beyond that is wishful thinking, because the money is not there to cut and paste honeybees. The same thing has been done with the fruit fly with little outcry. They are used to find out what specific areas do what. Since most sequences are common across most every living thing, it gives insight as to what does what in our own genetic makeup. There have been direct and beneficial results from the human gnome project in identifying differences which lead to genetic "diseases". The next project is mapping proteins since that is where all the real benefits will accrue. And it is where all the research money is going. You need genetic mapping to know what the proteins have to change. They are the specs we need to understand how the system works. Now we are developing the tools needed to change the system, for good or bad. Bill Truesdell Bath, Maine ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 08:17:38 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: dark honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Dick Allen wrote: > Honeydew honey also has a higher ash (mineral) > content than does floral honey. Because of its higher mineral content, it > may (I simply said may) actually be ‘better for you’ than floral honey. It does taste good. But that same mineral content can be bad for bees, especially oeverwintering bees. Bill Truesdell Bath, Maine ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 20:41:19 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Allen Dick Subject: Bee-proof clothing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Blowing bees is tricky work. Hot bee suits and bee-tight veils are de rigeur. http://www.internode.net/honeybee/diary/2002/Diary081002.htm#blow And never wear black. allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 08:19:27 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: grumpy7 Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It's trite, but true. Beliefs and opinions are what matter, not facts. And what is a "fact" anyway, but something that I happen to believe? Walter 0 Walter > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 09:46:37 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Borst Subject: Re: Honey Bee Genome Project Bill writes: There have been direct and beneficial results from the human gnome project See -- I knew it. They are trying to use technology to raise Gnomes. pb ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 08:23:17 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: "Wintereing" article in Bee Culture MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Haven't read the article yet, just received BC Monday and have not yet recovered from Post-EAS 2002 disorder! Colleen wrote: > Short of supering which I don't want to do this late in the > season, my other choice would be to pull full frames, but > all I have to replace them with is foundation.... Another option (at least in my neck of the woods) is giving your bees a full deep of foundation only. The is plenty of time for the bees to draw and utilize the frames and you can overwinter in 3 deeps. By next spring the bottom deep will be empty and you will be able to swap it out, putting your bees back on two deeps. An added benefit is you'll have spare drawn combs next season! Aaron Morris - thinking fall flow is yet to come in these parts! ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 10:54:01 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Tim Sterrett Subject: Re: Honey for Allergies. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Allergies are often to wind-carried pollens: oak, grasses (orchard, redtop), plantains, and ragweeds. These pollens probably enter the hive in currents of air and could end up in honey, just as they end up in our respiratory passages. Thirty years of eating my own local honey has not helped my allergies. Modern medicines have helped a lot. -- Tim Sterrett sterrett@fast.net (southeastern) Pennsylvania, USA 40N 75W ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 09:50:07 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Layne Westover Subject: Re: Questions: Wax Melter and Separator, Cappings Spinner,dark wax Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>> koland@STAFFINGTECH.COM 08/13/02 06:54PM >>> >I have recently acquired a wax melter and wax separator....... > >And, last but not least, the dark wax question....... >..... Any ideas or comments? > >Karen Oland I'm sorry that I have no information or answers about your Walter Kelley wax melter, but I do have a few comments about wax melting, filtering and wax colors: I found a reference to how to make a simple solar wax melter in Jim Satterfield's Top Bar Hive Beekeeping web pages (http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm) and adapted it and (I think I) improved upon it a little bit. I will describe what I do a little bit in hopes that someone else on the list may benefit from my experiences. I have several styrofoam "ice chests" that I have cut down to be a little shallower than normal. They are difficult to cut down and keep a smooth edge, so if you can get one of the kind that is used to ship items in the mail to keep them cool that already has a perfectly flat lip, that is better. I got several nice thick pieces of glass at a garage sale that fit over and completely cover the ice chests. Heavy glass works better for me because it does not get blown off as easily by the wind. This combination makes sort of a "mini-greenhouse". I situate the aspect of the melter (tilt it) so the sun will strike the glass as fully as possible during the hottest part of the day. I usually put a little rock under one edge of the bowl to keep it level even though the melter itself is tilted. Inside the ice chest, I place a plastic bowl (like tupperware or similar) with water in the bottom of the bowl. I fashion a wire basket to fit over the top of the bowl out of wide mesh hard- ware cloth or chicken wire (I have found chicken wire easier to work with). Inside the wire basket, I place one or two paper coffee filters, and inside the filter goes my wax or comb to be melted/filtered. This holds the wax/comb up out of the water. The slum gum stays inside the coffee filter while the wax melts with the heat of the sun and drips through the filter into the water below. If it is hot enough, the wax will form a liquid layer on top of the water while any honey will dissolve into the water. I use reverse osmosis pure water because otherwise the tap water we have here will cause some saponification of the wax. The leftover slum gum, pollen and impurities/debris I throw into my compost bucket where the soldier fly larvae make quick work of it. Depending upon the initial color of the wax and what sort of impurities it has in it (such as pollen, etc.) and whether it is from a dark brood comb or not, I sort these combs and run each batch separately. I therefore get a number of different colors of wax filtered that range from almost white to light yellow to darker yellow to orange to bronze and sometimes almost brown. I sort each batch and store it with other wax of the same color. Then when I make my candles, I choose the color of wax for each candle that seems to me to best fit the candle type. I find my little bear-skep candles are cutest when I have brown wax. My corn cob candles are prettiest when a light yellow color so they actually are the color of an ear of corn. My pumpkin candles look nicest to me when they are orange. My skeps I vary from bronze to yellow or white/tan. They are all "natural" colors with no extra coloring added. I find a dark brown chocolate colored wax to be the hardest one to come up with. I consider the dark brown one of my most valuable colors because it is so difficult to come by and makes uniquely colored natural candles. Wax will lighten somewhat as it is bleached in the sun (probably due to the ultraviolet radiation), so my guess is that the more times you filter it and remelt it, the lighter it will get. This is not high volume commercial wax processing and you are sometimes at the mercy of the weather, but it is great for hobbyists and it is very inexpensive. It meets all my current needs. Layne Westover, College Station, Texas ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 10:57:14 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Hensler Subject: Re: BEE-L Dark Honey > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Karen Oland" > > > > > > 8-12 Hives. Nothing else available at all, from mid-July until close > to > > > Sept > > > > (when goldenrod starts thinking about blooming). Would like pure > > > buckwheat > > > > flavor (and that nice nearly black color). Since you mention tulip poplars I assume you are located in the SE US? I have no experience with the growing conditions in that part of the country so I would recommend you contact your state extension service and see if buckwheat is a viable crop for your area. A good buckwheat site is http://www.muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/crops/g04306.htm but of course results would vary based on local growing conditions. I have no hard data as to how much acreage is required to support each hive so I can only suggest that you experiment. Your climate sounds a great deal like ours as we are normally in drought mode from early July until (maybe) as late as Nov. every year. We specialize in drought tolerate, hardy perennials and there are several which would fit your need to provide a nectar source under mid to late-season growing conditions, although for the most part they would qualify as "adding to the mix" rather than supplying a primary nectar source. You certainly have more than enough acreage available for an adequate buckwheat crop for your number of hives, assuming you were to plant the whole 10 acres and could get water to it during the dry periods. In our experience buckwheat is *not* very drought tolerant, but we have sandy loam soil which perks and dries out rapidly, and the plant may react differently under other growing conditions. I would be happy to share what little I know about buckwheat and drought-tolerant, bee-friendly plants on either a direct basis or over at sci.agriculture.beekeeping, but I'm not at all sure we are going to be well received by the august members here on Bee-L, who seem to prefer to pursue more technical matters. Please feel free to either open a new thread on sci.ag.bee or drop me an e-mail directly and I will talk your leg off about our experiences with nectar producing "dry time" plants. :-) Skip Skip & Christy Hensler THE ROCK GARDEN Newport, WA http://www.povn.com/rock/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 11:36:21 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Eugene Makovec Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.1.20020813123553.02351e10@pop.lmi.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii My doctor friend lamented the fact that he could not find any controlled medical research in this area, only the ancecdotal evidence you speak of. As someone else once opined in this forum, the pharmaceutical companies have nothing to gain from such research, and beekeepers are too disorganized to do it themselves. Eugene --- Mea McNeil wrote: I read numerous studies, > but none with data that > show that local honey relieves allergies -- yet all > report the anecdotal > evidence that we hear. Has subsequent research > shown that such a link > exists? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs http://www.hotjobs.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 14:46:50 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: "Wintereing" article in Bee Culture MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Colleen wrote: > Short of supering which I don't want to do this late in the > season, my other choice would be to pull full frames, but > all I have to replace them with is foundation.... You could over super. Put an inner cover over your brood boxes and a super over that and top it with an inner cover and outer cover. The bees will move any excess to the upper super and you can pull it in September or whenever the season ends without worrying about any major disruption. My hives are configured just that way right now. Bill Truesdell Bath, Maine ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 14:56:32 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. In-Reply-To: <3D5A4489.98A728BA@suscom-maine.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill Truesdale wrote: "......I note that it has done nothing when it comes to ragweed and me." Bill, wouldn't the honey have to have ragweed pollen in it to help set up the bodies antibodies to prevent allergic reaction? Do bees visit ragweed? I think the people that aren't helped are the ones allergic to pollen that honeybees don't collect, wouldn't that be a reasonable explanation? The medical doctors that I am treated by are not too familiar with products or treatments from bees. One doctor was not very impressed when I showed Her the results of treating a burn on My arm using only honey as a salve, there is almost no scarring at all. I guess if They were not taught it in medical school then it doesn't interest them. Garry Libby Attleboro, Massachusetts, USA --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.381 / Virus Database: 214 - Release Date: 8/2/2002 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 18:58:18 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: greg roody Subject: effects of mosquito spraying? In-Reply-To: <20020814183621.43094.qmail@web20609.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ok, so with all of this west nile talk some neighbors are thinking of calling in the mosquito control trucks (yeah, I know, absurd on the surface given the dry weather, lack of mosquitos and time of year - plus mid-northerly locale, but hey, these are "induhviduals" we are discussing (dnrc)...). Heck, they'll probably call in homeland defense if they can find a way. That begs the question, does the stuff they typically spray have an effect on honeybees? I live near wetlands and they usually do come by this area (after dark luckily, and won't spray "your" street without permision, but it does drift - and the bees do travel). Just curious if there is any data on it. I can't find it discussed wrt honeybees anywhere (unless I botched the archive search that is). ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 11:50:47 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Robt Mann Subject: Re: Honey for Allergies. In-Reply-To: <002501c243a2$6dba8b20$a8e45cd1@sterrett> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Tim Sterrett wrote: > Allergies are often to wind-carried pollens: oak, grasses (orchard, >redtop), plantains, and ragweeds. These pollens probably enter the hive in >currents of air and could end up in honey, just as they end up in our >respiratory passages. The fact that a given plant species (e.g maize) is not dependent on bees or other pollinator classifies it as 'wind-pollinated". But it does not follow that bees refrain from gathering this pollen as food. This deliberate gathering by bees can augment, or overwhelm, the transfer on the wind that Tim mentions. In some circumstances, quite a large proportion of the pollen in honey could be of this category. R ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 21:00:41 -0400 Reply-To: Judy & Dave Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Judy & Dave Subject: AN INTERESTING HIVE CAPTURE MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Bee Friends. Dave and I did a bee removal the other day. (Yes, last year we suggested that the people wait until March or April. They waited. Then waited too long. Finally got their equipment, put it together, and were ready. They said they would faithfully feed to get the bees built up for winter. Oh well) The owners stated that the bees had been in the wall of the house for about 4 years. No one had been living there and they were just now getting it fixed up to move into. The hive gave off swarms every spring. The bees actually were in the ceiling of the basement deck level. This made it easy to recover because we just removed the plywood ceiling and some plastic and insulation and there they were. I doubt that they had been there much longer than a year or so, About 10 combs, 8" long by about 3 feet wide. The bees looked different than any of ours (Buckfast, Italian, Russian, Carniolian and many wild swarms). The worker bees had a noticeable and distinct coloration. Their bodies were the usual brown with orangish brown stripes from hair. Now, these bees, on the back of the thorax, the spot that is only seen when they bend over and separate their abdomen, was a bright and distinct yellow. No stripes, just yellow. The color yellow that you see on bumble bees. The other thing. All of our hives have already thrown out the drones (well, except the laying worker hive that only had drones). This wild hive had plenty of drones, not overly so, just enough. Well, these drones had wings on them that were extremely long. A good 1/4" to 3/8" longer than the wings on drones we are used to seeing. And another. We removed the brood combs and tied them into empty frames. We were able to spot the queen and just carried that comb over to the hive box and laid it upright against the side. She was on the comb when we closed the hive. We finished removing the rest of the combs, they only had a bit of honey, no more brood so we didn't tie these in. Two days later the lady called and said there was a swarm hanging in the tree above the hive. We figured we needed to move the hive to the more than 3 miles because the less than 10 feet didn't work. So we had to do a bee presentation and kept our fingers crossed that the swarm wouldn't leave. Off we go the next day, she said they were still there. Well, sure enough there was a cluster the size of a soccer ball. With a queen in the middle. We put them in our cardboard carry case. Then we looked in the hive. Sure enough, there was a queen in the hive. Two queens, odd coloration, drone wings longer than usual. Any ideas? Judy in Kentucky ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 21:00:36 -0400 Reply-To: Judy & Dave Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Judy & Dave Subject: Re: Honey for allergies. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit From: "Eugene Makovec" > My doctor friend lamented the fact that he could not > find any controlled medical research in this area, > only the ancecdotal evidence you speak of. As someone > else once opined in this forum, the pharmaceutical > companies have nothing to gain from such research, and > beekeepers are too disorganized to do it themselves. Hello Bee Friends Just the other day I was reading some literature from the American Apitherapy Society. They have organized and developed a questionnaire to attempt to do some acceptable research on the Bee Venom Therapy. There is a doctor who has started a clinical trial in this area. Most of the discussion in the Apitherapy area seems to revolve around "let the world know about the hive products". This includes the manuka honey, antioxidants, BVT eye drops, MS, arthritis, gout and also honey as an allergy treatment. In this literature it also has an article about Apimondia's Standing Commission on Apitherapy, and also about the first German Apitherapy Conference. I am not a member of this society. Well, not yet. I guess the next time I pay bills, I will send in my membership. As the trials continue, I will keep this list posted. Judy in Kentucky (I am talking about the Journal of the American Apitherapy Society, Winter 2001/2002, Vol 8, No 4.)