From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 07:42:02 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-83.2 required=2.4 tests=ADVANCE_FEE_1,AWL, DEAR_SOMETHING,MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR,SPF_HELO_PASS,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Delivered-To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 021C349082 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 07:28:41 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SCLoXd010061 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 07:28:41 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 07:28:39 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0208E" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Message-ID: Content-Length: 65937 Lines: 1448 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 23:03:00 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: The problem with Cape bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Ps. I believe Dr. Erickson's comments back up the posts about the things > Blane White and I saw and heard at the ABF convention in Savannah 2002. Actually, I have just reviewed the BEE-L discussion from the start (which was difficult due to lack of line wrap in the archives) and I would like to point out that -- unless I missed something -- no one contested anything Blane said he saw or heard, or his carefully considered and written thoughts on the matter. They are well worth re-reading, particularly the questioning whether scutellata, capensis, and/or mellifera are separate species and may not interbreed very successfully for more than one generation or so. (I hope I got that right). What Blane reported matched quite closely what I heard and what I concluded after hearing the same talk -- or a version of it -- in Phoenix at about the same time, and after my visit to the lab. The controversy that arose on the topic here on BEE-L was strictly over conjecture and, perhaps, an unfortunate use of words and terminology. AFAIK, there is still no evidence -- that any scientist would stake a reputation on -- that capensis is involved in what is being observed in AZ. The pollination in California came and went, as did bees from all over the US, and AFAIK we are not hearing of the doom that was predicted by some. That is not to say that all the speculation and conjecture was wrong. Who knows; time will tell. But, if that speculation was on the money, why then is the spread of these phenomena not being reported as we would expect. I know Gloria was very careful what she said, and so was Blane. What is actually happening out there? Does anyone know names, places, numbers and dates? allen http://www.internode.net/honeybee/diary/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:32:27 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Alan Riach Subject: Heather MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ref. the comments on letting the bees fill the brood areas and then simply extracting from these areas. The only thing which makes me uneasy about extracting from brood areas is that since the arrival of Varroa and "chemicals", the brood areas are likely to be the most "chemically" area, albeit most of the chemicals should be in the wax. In principle I therefore disagree with brood area extraction, but it's a choice. We always go for cut comb so the honey has to be in the supers. I agree with the comment of loading up the brood area with advanced brood in the middle and later brood at the edges. Murry's quite right in saying that there's nothing like having plenty of bees at the heather and the worst thing that can happen for heather preparation is a poor (wet) June where the bees shut down laying (as happened here this year) -the only solution for that is to feed in June/early July. Alan Riach Bathgate,Edinburgh,Scotland ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 05:53:36 -0400 Reply-To: "jfischer@supercollider.com" Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: James Fischer Subject: Re: queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dick Allen quoted Walter T. Kelley thusly: > "It has been your author's experience that painted queens are > superceded much quicker than unpainted queens..." It has been THIS author's experience that it is impossible to tell a laying unmarked queen from a laying "supercedure" queen. :) > "...but many beekeepers do paint their queens because they > are so much easier to find." Easier to SEE. Finding the *&$@% queen is another story. jim ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 13:34:04 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Phil Moore Subject: Re: leaf blower MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a question, which type of lea blower is the most appropriate? The hand held with a ridgid spout or the back pack type-flexible hose. And are there many modifications needed apart from covering the inlet? regards Phil Moore ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 14:51:58 GMT+1 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lefebvre Myriam Subject: bee sounds Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="=_NextPart_Caramail_0310161030539118_ID" This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --=_NextPart_Caramail_0310161030539118_ID Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear All, I am a newcomer on the list and would like to share some information on bee sounds. I completed my PhD on bee sounds in 1993 at Macquarie University in Sydney (Australia). At the time no one seemed to be interested in the data I had collected and from there I moved to Italy to work on scientific projects that had nothing to do with honeybees. I am presently living in Belgium where I just started a project about honeybees, that's why I joined the BEE-L list. To come back to bee sounds, there is such a thing as worker piping and there are even more worker sounds that I recorded and described in full details in my thesis. The worker piping I recorded (I am talking about substrate sounds) was different from all other sounds that had been reported in the literature, at least at the time of my work. I called it the long piping signal. For reasons that I don't want to go into here, I did not publish my data elsewhere, except for a Belgian beekeeping journal (in French). I would be happy to send more information if anyone is interested. I would have loved to do more research on bee sounds but at the time there where no good opportunities. Sincerely, Myriam PS:The reference of the thesis: An analysis of alarm sounds of honeybees (Apis mellifera). Myriam Lefebvre Macquarie University, Sydney, Australia. ______________________________________________________ Bo=EEte aux lettres - Caramail - http://www.caramail.com --=_NextPart_Caramail_0310161030539118_ID-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:46:24 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Dick, > "It has been your author's experience that painted queens are >superceded much quicker than unpainted queens but many beekeepers >do paint their queens because they are so much easier to find." I suspect there is merit to the above statement. I do not believe the instance of supercedure in high because of marking. In observation hives it always seems like only a few bees which follow the queen and try to remove the paint. I use the product *white out* for observation hive queens and have found many times over a several day event the bees have almost removed the marking. I believe the queens attendants are very aware of her marking. In my opinion the instance of supercedure would occur sooner than later. Murray M. of our list runs a large number of hives and marks all his queens. Maybe Murray will comment. I do not mark queens except in test hives as I requeen all on a regular basis. I am sure I requeen a young supercedure queen every once in a while. Murray requeens as needed and has said he has marked queens several years old still in production hives. Many methods in use to keep bees. Marking certainly gives the beekeeper information about the queen when working the hive that working a hive without a marked queen doesn't. If you replace all queens on a regular basis then why mark other than the ease of finding the queen. I could point out the pro's and con's of both methods in my opinion but will not as one must simply choose the method which works best for their part of the world and their own operation. Sincerely, Bob ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 12:49:34 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mike Churchill Subject: Re: queens In-Reply-To: <200208280504.g7S4qpaI002718@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 01:04 AM 8/28/02 -0400, Dick wrote: >An interesting quote from Walter T. Kelley's book: "How to Keep Bees and >Sell Honey" 13th ed. page 108: > >"It has been your author's experience that painted queens are superceded >much quicker than unpainted queens but many beekeepers do paint their >queens because they are so much easier to find." More likely is that unmarked queens are superceded without the beekeepers knowledge. I would recommend marking. Mike Churchill, Beginning Beekeeper | "The difference is, that, mike.churchill@netmechanic.com | instead of dirt and poison, we -------------------------------------| have rather chosen to fill our http://www.netmechanic.com | hives with honey and wax; thus Power Tools for Your Web Site - Link | furnishing mankind with the two and HTML testing, Server Reliability | noblest of things, which are Testing, Website Promotion Tools | sweetness and light." J. Swift ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 19:56:03 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Eugene Makovec Subject: Foulbrood: Is the honey good? In-Reply-To: <4f.229b391d.2a9ec673@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I have several hives that appear to have foulbrood. One is too far gone and has been taken over by the moths. But the others still have enough life to repel them. I have two questions: #1: Is there anything I can do to save them? #2: Can I extract the honey that's in the brood chamber? It hasn't been treated with anything. And if I do, do I need to do something special with the extracting equipment to keep from spreading disease to other frames later? Eugene Makovec __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 09:31:21 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Ross Langlands Subject: Re: location considerations MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dear Ron Sounds ideal to me. 110 degrees is absolutely fine. The entrance should be southish facing away from the prevailing wind. Your climate is pretty similar to ours in the East of Scotland. Shade in the afternoon will prevent the hive getting too hot, but the bees will still forage and facing south-east will get them going early in the morning. Are you anywhere near Munka Ljungby? Joel Svenssons Vaxfabrik there (www.joelvax.se ) is well stocked and the staff are very helpful. Good luck, Ross Langlands -----Original Message----- From: Ron van Mierlo [mailto:pc.direktservice@SWIPNET.SE] Sent: 25 August 2002 19:59 To: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu Subject: [BEE-L] location considerations ********************************************************************** The information contained in this message may be confidential or legally privileged and is intended for the addressee only, If you have received this message in error or there are any problems please notify the originator immediately. The unauthorised use, disclosure, copying or alteration of this message is strictly forbidden. ********************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 07:56:20 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chuck NLN Subject: What to do with dead hive? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed I'm a hobby beekeeper with two hives: good hive and bad hive. Last year (the first year) good hive gave me 160 pounds of honey. I barely got 20 from bad hive. This year good hive has thus far provided 110 pounds and I expect 60-80 pounds more based on the state of the 4 supers on the hive now. Bad hive has provided no honey. Through a comedy of errors, both hives were requeened last September. Both came through the winter OK, but bad hive has always been weak; good hive has always been extremely robust. The hives sit side-by-side overlooking what used to be a soybean field that is now being turned into tract homes. They are in Northern Illinois, 40 miles west of Chicago. Bad hive started out weak this year and by June was exhibiting symptoms of having a laying worker. I attempted to requeen. I couldn't find a queen, but the queen I put in was released from her cage. It didn't seem to help any and the hive continued to decline as evidenced by few bees flying in or out. The bees that were there were very aggressive. There also was very little brood and most of it looked like drone cells. When I went out Sunday it was being robbed through the inner cover (I prop the cover up a little for ventilation). I closed the top tight and put in an entrance reducer with the smallest opening open. I checked it again last night (Tuesday) at 5:00PM. Hive population is down to about the same as a package, I guess about 2-3000 bees? Inner cover was covered with black ants. Yellowjackets were openly flying into the hive. I went through the hive frame by frame. There were some wax moth larvae, and some damage/cocoons. I killed all the larvae, about 10, cut out all the areas where there was cocoons/damage, and then closed it back up. There's about 80 pounds of honey in the two deeps. I hate to turn it over to the wax moths and other critters. Here are my thoughts: 1) Actually kill the remaining bees using ? Soapy water? Drive them out using beegone? And then totally seal up the hive until the spring when I install a new package. Put moth crystals in the sealed hive. 2) Kill the remaining bees, extract the honey that is there, seal up the hive with moth crystals in place. 3) Kill the remaining bees, put the deep hive bodies on top of the good hive and let the good hive take care of the honey and wax moth problems. 4) Just seal it up with moth crystals in place and let the crystals kill everything. What do you suggest? I don't think I have a lot of time here before I have to take some action. Thanks in advance for your advice. Chuck _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 06:52:02 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: preacher Subject: Re: leaf blower MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I have a question, which type of lea blower is the most appropriate? > The hand held with a rigid spout or the back pack type-flexible hose. I just use the ridged walmart brand, works great. as far as bees getting into it while using? I have never had any get into it. They were trying to find somewhere out of the wind:) preacher ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 08:21:17 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Bassett Subject: silver queen uncapper I bought a used uncapper with serated blade. I currently use 10 frames per supra for honey extracting and find to much variance in the width of the sides of the honey. I am thinking of using 9 frames for next year but before I go crazy I wondered if anyone had experience with this uncapper and 9 frames, I'm not sure if the depth of the cut could be controlled to not take off an excess of wax. thanks ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 08:58:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Janet Montgomery Subject: Re: queens MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT As for marking queens, no one has mentioned my favorite reason for marking queens-- it pretty well tells me that the old marked queen is no longer in the hive from swarm, supersedure or what ever. I would mark any new queen just to verify the preceding happenings, especially in less visited apiaries where swarms may be missed. Could the disappearance of missing marks be due to another queen being present? While I'm on line, it would be really helpful if posts would include the State/Province/area and country so some of us newcomers could relate to the conditions the writer is discussing. As for me, I find that in real estate location, location, location is important. Dan Veilleux & Janet Montgomery Vilas, NC Blue Ridge Mountains ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 08:56:33 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: silver queen uncapper MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" michael.bassett asked about a Cowen Silver Queen Uncapper with 9 frames to a box. I've had a silver queen uncapper for 4 years now. It's great! It uncaps frames faster than I can feed it! As far as 9 frames to a box and concerns for cutting too deeply, it's a non-problem. First, you'll catch whatever is cut off the frames in an uncapping tank. You may end up with more wax and honey in your uncapping tank, but nothing is lost. You just drain more from your cappings. I use Stroller Frame spacers in all my honey supers. Most of my supers have 9 frame spacers, and some have even 8 frame spacers. There is an adjusting lever on the left side of the uncapper that adjusts the distance between the blades to accommodate thicker of thinner combs (or at least there is on my model). I bought my uncapper used. I imagine it was built back in the early 80s. I love it. Cowen displayed their latest model at EAS. The silver queen uncapper (which was a manual model, 1 frame at a time vs. the model I have which allows one to stack 4 frames at a time and auto-feeds them into the uncapper) was mounted above a cappings spinner. The cappings fall right into the spinner, and the uncapped frames are pushed onto a rack that leads directly to the extractor. A claw sort of devive picks up 15 frames at a time from the rack and loads them into the radial extractor, which runs 30 frames at a time (2 claws full). After spinning the frames, the next loading with the claw pushes the spun frames out to a rack on the other side of the extractor. Actually, I'm not sure if the spun frames get pushed out with the next load or if you have to use the claw again for the unloading. The demo used dry, fresh frames (no wax/propolis/honey to gum things up. The frames get back into the supers by scooping them from below the bottom bars using the super as the scoop. Automation at it's finest. I was drooling! Cappings spinning and extractor are both connected to a baffled settling tank, with a honey pump. The whole line was on rollers so the beekeeper can easily roll the aparatus out of the way when not in use. Ballpark cost was $10K. Certainly overkill for my operation, but I've been having a hard time getting it off my mind. So anyway Mike, yes, 9-frames and the silver queen uncapper are well suited for each other. The frame spacers are a nice touch. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 09:09:05 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: LLOYDSPEAR Subject: Use of a Silver Queen Uncapper Mike wonders whether a Silver Queen would successfully work with frames from a 9-frame super. Mike, you have one of the finest machines ever made. ( I am jealous...If only I could find a used Silver Queen in good condition!) It will handle frames from a 9-frame super with ease. Better yet, consider going with only 8 frames in a super! I watched a commercial guy uncap frames from 8-frame supers with a Silver Queen, and it was a joy to see. Since, all my supers are equipped with frame holders for 8 frames, as they are also much easier to uncap with a knife or Maxant Plane. If you go with 9 frames you can easily do the spacing with your fingers and thumb. If you go with 8 frames I suggest you invest in spacers (which are plenty cheap). But I know another commercial guy who only runs 8 frames and does the spacing with his thumb. A study some years ago found that you get more honey from a super with 9 frames than with 10, and more from a super with 8 frames than with 9. Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner of Ross Rounds, manufacturer of comb honey equipment for beekeepers and Sundance pollen traps. http://www.rossrounds.com Lloyd@rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 08:11:16 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: silver queen uncapper MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sell the cowan and invest in a dakota gunness. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 09:26:16 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: BEE_L_Moderator Subject: BEE-L FAQ and Guidelines MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please read this entire article before replying to messages or posting to BEE-L. It provides essential information for all BEE-L subscribers. BEE-L is a moderated discussion list with published standards & guidelines. Discussion covers a wide range of bee-related subjects. Anyone with an interest in bees is welcome to join and submit articles for consideration. While anyone may read BEE-L, those submitting articles, by doing so, agree that acceptance or rejection of posts to be sent to the list is at the sole discretion of the moderators. BEE-L WEB PAGE: Links to our rules, the sign-on messages and access to our FAQ can be found in one easy-to-use page at http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L. BEFORE YOU POST OR REPLY TO BEE-L: Please visit http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L periodically to review our guidelines and especially before posting to the list. GUIDELINES: BEE-L has rules that everyone who wishes to post messages to the list must observe. Please see http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L for details. Failure to meet guidelines will result in rejection of your article, usually without comment. IN PARTICULAR, DO NOT INCLUDE QUOTES OF PREVIOUS ARTICLES OR ANY PREVIOUS HEADERS WHEN REPLYING. CONTRIBUTIONS INCLUDING QUOTES THAT ARE NOT ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO UNDERSTANDING WILL USUALLY BE REJECTED *WITHOUT NOTICE* Articles accepted for BEE-L will normally be limited to those dealing directly with topics directly associated with bees and/or beekeeping. Please do not cut and paste entire copyrighted articles from other sources. Fair use excerpts are okay. Where possible, please just post the URL that points DIRECTLY to the article in question, not to an index page. Indirect or incorrect URLS or cut and pasting will result in rejection of the entire submission or a request for correction.. FAQ: Our FAQ is our archive of posts running back a decade and half. 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There are more possibilities than simple rejection by moderators. CANCELLING AND CHANGING YOUR BEE-L SUBSCRIPTION: Easy-to-use forms to easily and quickly change, suspend, or cancel your BEE-L membership are available at http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/BEE-L VIRUSES AND WORMS: BEE-L is moderated and is also text-only. Binaries and attachments are rejected. The moderators also reject any SPAM that is sent to BEE-L. Members therefore should never receive viruses or worms from BEE-L. Nonetheless anyone who sends and receives email on the Internet is vulnerable to receiving malicious programs in email from known and unknown persons. Therefore members are STRONGLY ADVISED to get and use two programs: a firewall and a virus checker. CURRENTLY RECOMMENDED SOFTWARE: Zone Alarm is available as a free download at http://www.zonelabs.com/ for personal use. It is simply the best available, and simple to use. Don't trust the firewall built into Windows XP. It, and many others out there simply won't do the trick. A personal version of AVG anti virus is available as a free download from http://www.grisoft.com/ and it can be set to update automatically or updated manually (for free) over the net whenever you like. Please be sure to update your anti-virus daily so that your computer does not get infected with new worms that come along daily, and thus become a nuisance to the rest of us. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 16:35:08 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Karen Oland Subject: Re: What to do with dead hive? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >1) Actually kill the remaining bees using ? Soapy water? Drive them out >using beegone? And then totally seal up the hive until the spring when I >install a new package. Put moth crystals in the sealed hive. Moth crystals would render the honey unuseable that was left behind -- I assume you were going to extract what you could first and allow it it be robbed out before putting in crystals? >2) Kill the remaining bees, extract the honey that is there, seal up the >hive with moth crystals in place. Better, honey is extracted. Fumes could drift to strong hive and kill them too. >3) Kill the remaining bees, put the deep hive bodies on top of the good hive >and let the good hive take care of the honey and wax moth problems. Possibly the best option, but depends on how long till your honey flow is over. If over now, you could combine using newspaper between, after killing the weak queen. If you have laying workers, that would most likely not be a good idea. >4) Just seal it up with moth crystals in place and let the crystals kill >everything. Again, this means you have a large amount of potentially deadly honey in the spring -- which your strong hive might rob out and suffer as a result. >What do you suggest? Assuming there was no disease present and there is a queen laying, why not switch the two boxes after the honey flow? This would lead to influx of foragers into the weak hive. Or simply combine the two hives and have one for the winter (let the strong hive clear out the wax moths). In other words, FIRST, determine why that hive keeps having trouble, before contaminating the strong hive. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 17:15:16 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Coleene Davidson Subject: Re: Use of a Silver Queen Uncapper MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, OK-how about answering a question on spacing-granted, it will be pure speculation, but have a go! Why, when 9 frames of foundation are put in the brood chamber, the bees build brace comb all over the place, but when 9 frames of foundation are put on in a super, they draw it out straight and clean-no brace comb to make a mess when the frames are removed. Was this super a fluke? I know the goof in the brood chamber was mine. The super-less of an issue because it is being extracted. Coleene ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 15:49:23 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: dan hendricks Subject: How does Apistan Work?? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Milt, the label tells you that Apistan must not be in the hive when extracting supers are on. You certainly don't want to offer that honey for sale since it is liable to be contaminated to some extent. Apistan works by being picked up by the bees' legs when they walk over the strips and then spread through the hive to the other bees. The active ingredient then kills those varroa mites which are, at that point in time, on the adult bees as distinguished from those which are in the capped cells. If the miticide killed both mites and the bees, it would never have been offered for sale. It it was my fireweed honey, I would eat it anyway. There is a world of difference between the level of miticide which can be detected in sophisticated tests and that which will actually hurt you. The hive bees don't pack the incoming nectar into the cells with their legs so the amount actually in the honey is infinitesimal. Since the wax absorbs a measurable amount if the miticide, the party line is not to resuse that comb for exracting honey in the future. But I have been watching very carefully for years for a scientist to report tests showing that honey actually extracted miticide from the "contaminated" combs and have never seen a single one. Since wax is such an absorbant, my intuition tells me it is more likely to clean contaminants from honey than to be cleaned by the honey. Dan --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 18:48:44 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: dpn Subject: starting a hive in zone 8 does anyone know if i can start a hive of bees from a two pound package with a queen this time of year? i live in southern mississippi,75 miles from new orleans. i think i should be able to if i feed then during the winter (if you can call ours a winter)if i can, should i expect a crop of honey next spring? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:02:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: DONALD M CAMPBELL Subject: Re: queens Hello Bob, You mentioned in your post that you do not mark your queens because you replace them on a regular basis. Marking them would make them easy to find, so you could send her to royal heaven and let the bees accept the new queen(s). I was always told you had to find and dispose of the old queen to have the hive accept the one your putting in. If this is not the case, if you know of some way to replace a queen without killing off the old one, I'd really like to know about it!! This could save hours of looking for the old girl.. Thanks, Don ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 20:58:47 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Use of a Silver Queen Uncapper MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Coleene Davidson wrote: > ... Why, when 9 frames of foundation are put in the brood chamber, > the bees build brace comb all over the place, but when 9 frames of > foundation are put on in a super, they draw it out straight and > clean .... Hmmm. Can't say. I would never put 9 frames of foundation into a super with frame spacers, as (at least my bees) would surely screw them up. In my previous post I stated I use frame spacers (either 9 or 8 frames to a super). I only put DRAWN COMB into supers with spacers. If I'm using frames for the first time (hence foundation) I put 10 frames to the box. I keep a few supers with no spacers for this purpose. Only after the bees draw the foundation and I extract the frames will I put them into supers with spacers. That's another nice thing about the Silver Queen Uncapper. The uncapped frames are nice and even (no gouged out areas). I'm sure this is more to my liking, my bees have never commented that they like the nice even frames. But the empty, even frames going onto the hive result in almost perfect, even, capped frames of honey when they come off. With the silver queen, the frames get better and better year after year! Aaron Morris - thinking on an even frame! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 20:53:38 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Terry Sutherland Subject: NEWBIE Feeding sugar syrup MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I started this spring with my first bee hive. They were doing very well. I think that they were increasing in size faster than I was adding hive bodies and supers to the hive. Around the 4th of July the hive swarmed twice. Not knowing any better I split the original hive into two hives. Thinking that would give them move room. Both hives have recovered from the split. Being that they are now at two deep and one super above the excluder. The super above the excluder is new foundation. Since the main flow was coming to an end at the time of the swarm the bees have not drawn out the foundation. So, I've built a couple of miller feeders and started feeding this week. They are consuming the feed at the rate of 2 gallons a day per hive!!!!! The bees have now started to draw out the foundation. Is it ok to continue feeding the bees at this rate? I'm hoping that they will lower their consumption at some point. Can the bees convert the sugar syrup into honey or is it just stored sugar syrup? If it's stored as just syrup then its pointless to feed after adding the supers. Other than to draw out the foundation for next year. I'm just wanting to get the hives in shape for the winter ahead. Terry Greenwood, MO USA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 22:06:22 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Rick Green Subject: New York State honey yields Comments: To: BEE-L@LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU|Informed Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I had the best honey yields ever. I live in Saratoga county of New York State. Average hive yields of 95-100 lbs over 100 hives. Eight(8) ross rounds filled with comb honey too. I used Checkmite one year ago and mite populations are low. Please share your stats, I think this will be a good year for many from early reports. Rick ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 22:01:36 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Don and All, Most on the BEE-L list are hobby beekeepers. I do not know the amount of beekeepers which are not but would guess less than 5% or less than 50 BEE-L members from a list of around a thousand. Allen or Aaron any guesses? Those of us which work bees everyday look at beekeeping different than hobby beekeepers, researchers and scientists. We simply can not spend extra time with a single hive except in the case of mites or disease. If a hive does not want to take a new queen we combine with a queenright. Don wrote: > You mentioned in your post that you do not mark your queens because you replace them on a regular basis. All hives are requeened at least every two years and every year if I have got the time. When I was involved with larger numbers I only requeened problem hives. Young queens has many advantages. > Marking them would make them easy to find, I have no trouble finding queens most of the time. a couple minutes in the spring of year but the time of year is important. In other words after the spring laying has began. so you could send her to royal > heaven and let the bees accept the new queen(s). A sad job after all her work but a practice done by those beekeepers which have got access to many queens. > I was always told you had to find and dispose of the old queen to have the hive accept the one your putting in. It is also best to leave the dequeended hive until the hive realizes it is queenless. Introduction comes with experience. If this is not the case, if you know > of some way to replace a queen without killing off the old one, I'd really like to know about it!! I do not know of a way but others have used several methods which have been discussed on BEE-L before. Dee Lusby has talked about requeening without dequeening. >This could save hours of looking for the old girl.. If you are spending hours you need a marked queen and practice in finding the queen. Try spliting the hive in two parts with a queen excluder a few days before looking. Find the eggs and only look in the part with the eggs. I only look for a queen when I have got a purpose in mind. Never when the population is at peak strength. Eggs or very young larva is all I need to see to be sure the hive is queenright. I simply do not have the extra time to spend on a single hive. I do have to find the queen when requeening in spring or late fall. Others like myself and myself have all got a system for our bee work which dates back to grandfathers time. At certain times of the year we do certain things. Never changes except for additional work brought on by mites etc. I have kept bees in several different states and the methods and times are different in each area. Most older beekeepers have gained their bee knowledge from the trial and error method and not from bee books. The best bee books for the U.S sideline and commercial beekeeper have been from the old master commercial beekeepers. C.P. Dadant , A.I Root and C.C. Miller to name a few. Sincerely, Bob ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 23:24:10 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter John Keating Subject: Re: leaf blower MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Do be careful when purchasing these blowers. I purchased a Homelight and found that the exhaust gases were exhausted with the blown air! Not good for the honey or bees. I spent a lot of time modifying it! I have had some excellent Mitsubishi blowers but can no longer obtain parts for them. I now have a Sthil which is very good, it's a backpack blower which is okay but uncomfortable if one works alone and has to bend and walk with it on the back. I much prefer the free standing models, but one has to be careful that they don't suck up bees (install a finer screen) and that they don't blow soil which may introduce botulism spores?? I also have an electric Sthil, that I have never used. It was recommended by a French beekeeper. I like the idea of having a quite 4 stroke generator on the truck a quite electric blower in the hand; it would sure beat a noisy 2 stroke on the back! There are now some high volume 2 stroke hand blowers from some companies which appear to be very good. Peter ----- Original Message ----- From: Phil Moore > I have a question, which type of lea blower is the most appropriate? > The hand held with a ridgid spout or the back pack type-flexible hose. And > are there many modifications needed apart from covering the inlet? ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 07:37:03 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: What to do with a dead hive? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Chuck, Despite the title the hive isn't dead - yet. I suggest a 5th option. Assuming the hives are together so if one has foul brood, so will the other, I would simply unite the two by putting the bad on top of the good separated by a sheet of newspaper with a few small perforations in it. The bees should unite peacably and after a week or two you can put the boxes into a more sensible order. The strong colony should sort out wax moth problems. Chris ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 08:57:46 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Book Announcement MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-2" No association (or endorsement), just passing the word along. /Aa -----Original Message----- From: Zbigniew Lipinski [mailto:lipinski@sprint.com.pl] Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 9:03 AM Subject: Swarmingbook-letter Dear Sirs, I have the pleasure to announce that my new book has been placed on-line at the www site - http://www.swarmingbook.com It is entitled : ESSENCE END MECHANISM OF NEST ABANDONMENT BY HONEY BEE SWARMS It was awarded the gold medal at the Apimondia 2001 scientific competition Dr Zbigniew Lipinski P.S. - 1 -More info. Am Bee J. Vol. 142.No.5., page 317 2 - Please transfer this message to other beekeepers ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 09:24:12 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: What to do with a dead hive? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Chris Slade wrote: > Assuming the hives are together so if one has foul > brood, so will the other, .... I'm not sure the former (hives are together) implies the later (if one has foul brood, so will the other). If the "dead" hive does not have foul brood, I might agree with the advice to combine the two. But I would check the "dead" hive quite thouroughly first. I speculate that the only thing to be gained in the combination is wax moth protection. My recollection of the original description is that the hive has been in decline for quite some time, hence all the remaining bees will be old and not of much use to the stronger colony. One might take the position that combining the weak hive (at this point in time since it is SO weak) with the stronger hive would be throwing good money after bad. I might be more inclined to depopulate the weak hive and protect it from wax moth until it can be given new bees next spring, rather than burdening the strong hive with the added real estate and tired, old, grumpy bees. But first, I'd find out for certain what caused the decline of the "dead" hive. Were I certain there were no pathogens being passed around I might distribute the depopulated boxes amongst my stronger colonies (but the original poster only has one other hive). Perhaps consolidate the stores in one box to give to the stronger colony and protect the remaining equipment from wax moths until next spring when it can be repopulated. By next spring the strong colony will likely have emptied one of the 3 deeps, which can be given back to the newly started package once it is picking up steam. This would be my advice for the seasons in upstate New York. I do nor recall where the original post came from (or if we were even told). But foremost in this advice, regardless of location, determine why the "dead" hive declined! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 11:16:30 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Karen Oland Subject: Re: leaf blower In-Reply-To: <006201c24fd4$b5f3a5a0$4794fdcf@user> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I use electric. Works great, is quiet (no bees attacking it). easy to use at home or with either a 110 adapter for the truck or carry a generator along for out yards (again, keeps the smell and noise far from the bees). For the cost of an offical bee blower, you can get an electric blower (approx $30-40 USD) and a very good generator (gas, diesel or propane). And the generator is usefull year around. -----Original Message----- From: Peter John Keating .. I also have an electric Sthil, that I have never used. k! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:24:11 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: leaf blower In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, Karen uses an electric blower and a generator. For a few hives, one of the battery-powered blowers may suffice. We also use a generator - but mainly because we power lots of gadgets and don't like the NOISE and since we sample hives for chemicals, we don't want the exhaust fumes in the yard. Our solution, we tried a variety of small,portable generators -- most have a high pitched, irritating sound. We chose a Honda, at the time, it was the best in terms of being muffled (just a low, put,put). On a breezy day, its hard to tell if its running. THEN, we got a 100 ft, heavy duty extension cord. Works great, fussy with the cord is worth not having to breathe fumes or listen to the motor all day. Of course, that far away, when it runs out of gas, you usually discover it when you switch on the electric device -- didn't hear the generator stop. Other advantage of the long cord, in dry conditions, you can put the gas motor in a safe place (pavement, sidewalk, bed of a truck), rather than down in the grass where it can start a fire. Jerry ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:14:38 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: leaf blower MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I use electric. Works great, is quiet... I wonder what kind you use? I have a Weed Eater model, but it gives off a loud whine that is harder to take than sound of gas blowers. allen ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:18:31 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Allen Dick Subject: BEE-L's Greatest Hits MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'd like to hear what BEE-L members consider to be the most valuable or interesting thing that they have learned through BEE-L. I realise that I would have to list at least 20 things if I were to mention them all, but my all-time favourite is the idea of stopping a robbing frenzy by taking off all the hive lids in the yard (assuming the robbing is not originating elsewhere). allen http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/Diary/ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 16:09:05 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Frank I. Reiter" Subject: BEE-L's Greatest Hits: Preventing robbing In-Reply-To: <002501c2505a$4e557fa0$57ae73d1@allen> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Allen Dick wrote: > > I realise that I would have to list at least 20 things if I were > to mention > them all, but my all-time favourite is the idea of stopping a robbing > frenzy by taking off all the hive lids in the yard (assuming the robbing is > not originating elsewhere). I looked in the archives and found a post by somebody who said he had been taught this but had never tried it. Has anybody here tried it? What happened? (I am particularly interested because I set off some fierce robbing the other day just by trying to put some wet supers back on to stay for winter. Although the bees were gentle as we began, we got chased out of the yard before finishing. I'm not sure what I could have done differently except perhaps letting them be robbed some distance away before bringing them into the yard.) Frank. ----- The very act of seeking sets something in motion to meet us; something in the universe, or in the unconscious responds as if to an invitation. - Jean Shinoda Bolen http://WWW.BlessedBee.ca ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 16:17:21 -0700 Reply-To: beekeeper82@yahoo.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Carm Subject: Re: Ontario honey yields In-Reply-To: <44A01D51.44F6AB67.0075E3B1@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Looks like where I am is over 200 pound average , maybe 250, over 40 hives. 20 more hives at the same location, but nucs, hence no honey. Carm __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 17:01:24 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: dan hendricks Subject: NEWBIE Feeding sugar syrup MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Terry, nectar is sucrose just like sugar syrup and the bees do the same to both: Convert them to honey. Here in western WA, I provide most of my bees' overwintering honey by feeding them syrup. They start out taking it at a great rate but quickly slow way down and will take none after the frist week of October. Keep track of how much honey/syrup they store and when they have enough to overwinter on, stop feeding. Of course, you don't want to extract the syrup/honey and treat it as if it was nectar/honey. Incidentally, you can force swarms to self-retrieve by keeping a queen excluder under the hive bodies. See http://pub5.bravenet.com/forum/fetch.php?id=10022528&dir=1&usernum=411580919 Dan --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 23:26:18 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: huestis' Subject: Re: New York State honey yields MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Rick, I guess I'll answer. Averaging about 100- 120 pounds on the few colonies I have stacked for production. I have converted 75% of my colonies to 4.9 cell sizing this season (and last) and most have built up to three deep brood chambers which is how I like to manage them( I have replaced 1/3rd of these as they were culls and transition combs). They are at this time ready for winter with no feeding necessary. Ending my second season with no chemical treatments. Did only one section colony yeilding 5 supers using shook swarming onto 4.9. I cut the season short so I could get a second brood chamber of 49er combs. So I would guess I could have produced another super or two. I have heard that farther north of me they are averageing about 150 pounds. Average of 5 round supers. Clay ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 20:33:28 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Terry Sutherland Subject: Re: NEWBIE Feeding sugar syrup In-Reply-To: <20020831000124.33000.qmail@web14203.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Dan, Thanks for the info. I actually got to witness both swarms. It was the first that I had seen, a very impressive sight. I did try to retrieve both swarms. They chose to land on tree limbs that were in the 4 to 6 inch diameter range. Not the type of limb that you trim to recover a swarm as suggested in the beekeeping books that I have!! Tried brushing into a box and then moving them to a hive. Must of missed the queen as they both left the next day. At this point I'm just wanting to get some comb drawn out in the supers that I have for next year. I'm just afraid of the bees running out of room in the hive and wanting to leave again. Will the bees some what regulate their size as fall/winter approaches and not become honey bound? Would it be ok to leave the one super on the two deep though winter? Hoping that they would consume the sugar syrup. Leaving me with empty comb ready for next year's flow. Terry ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 20:32:29 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Don, Why be stubborn? Use MARKED queens - then it is easy to "hunt for the old girl". George Imirie Certified EAS Master Beekeeper Author of George's PINK PAGES - www.beekeeper.org/george_imirie/index.html ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 18:40:17 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: BEE-L's Greatest Hits: Preventing robbing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I looked in the archives and found a post by somebody who said he had been > taught this but had never tried it. Has anybody here tried it? What > happened? It works for me. allen ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 09:19:10 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: BEE-L's Greatest Hits: Preventing robbing Frank What time of day did you do this? Best to put wet supers back just before it gets dark so that the bees do not have much time to start robbing. Incidentally, I always put the supers UNDER the crownboard so that bees do not suffocate in the confined and rather airless space between the crownboard and the roof. I also have a theory that many bees get sticky when cleaning supers and then fall down onto the crown board and die. If the supers are put under the crownboard these bees will fall down into the broodnest and get cleaned up by other bees - I never seem to get dead bees doing it this way. Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank I. Reiter" To: Sent: 30 August 2002 21:09 Subject: [BEE-L] BEE-L's Greatest Hits: Preventing robbing > (I am particularly interested because I set off some fierce robbing the > other day just by trying to put some wet supers back on to stay for winter. > Although the bees were gentle as we began, we got chased out of the yard > before finishing. I'm not sure what I could have done differently except > perhaps letting them be robbed some distance away before bringing them into > the yard.) ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 08:08:58 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Allen Dick Subject: Polarization fail MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here's one that might interest BEE-L subscribers. Please reply direct to amrf7@hotmail.com (or CC him a reply to this post) since I doubt he is on BEE-L. allen ----- Original Message ----- From: "amrf7" To: Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 2:44 AM Subject: [BeeGadgets] Polarization fail > Its Long story from Egypt, its summary is : > > 1. my honey fails in tests specially polarization test. > 2. I produce 5 KG/Hive only. > > Maybe I make a mistake in feeding the bees, maybe something else. > > I don't know what to do about that,if anyne can help me about that I > will be graceful. > > Thanks in Advance > > Amr ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 09:20:38 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dennis Murrell Subject: Re: BEE-L's Greatest Hits: Preventing robbing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Everyone, As a commercial beekeeper, yards were often worked at the worst times. Often too much time was spent in a yard at the wrong time of the year, etc. Removing all the lids worked well. After 15 minutes or the so the robbing frenzy would decrease to a level that would allow the yard to be finished. I have known some beekeepers to remove the lids and spray the hive entrances with a flavoring or essential oil- water mixture. A drop of diesel fuel on the bottom board has been use by some in an emergency (yuck!). I don't know what happens after the yard is worked this way as i've only used it in the fall when most of the hives were strong enough to defend themselves and with enough stores for winter. Maybe progressive robbing continues and if used at other times of the year would result it colony death. Best Wishes Dennis ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 18:49:00 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: cnn news MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-2" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.cnn.com/2002/US/08/28/contaminated.honey/index.html