From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 08:53:56 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-93.3 required=2.4 tests=AWL,SPF_HELO_PASS, USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Delivered-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 8F4E949089 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:44:23 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SDdDKh012145 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:44:23 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:44:19 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0412B" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Message-ID: Content-Length: 16229 Lines: 362 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 08:12:03 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bill Lord Subject: HFCS storage and heating I have been buying HFCS in 300 gallon totes and now want to move up to buying tanker loads. Can anyone give me some tips on liquifying HFCS once it has set up in plastic storage tanks? What is the storage life of 55 HFCS? Any other HFCS tips appreciated. thanks, Bill Lord Louisburg, NC :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 15:23:50 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Hanlin, Steve" Subject: Re: HFCS storage and heating Comments: To: wglord@ATT.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain I had approximately 500 gallons of HFCS which began to sugar in a 1000 gallon tank. Once we were able to punch a hole through the crystal syrup and get liquid flow, we had to circulate the syrup daily for 5 to 10 minutes. This seemed to at least give us an the opening until we could start pumping it off for feeding. Once we got down to only the crystal syrup stuck on the bottom and the sides, we would add hot water to the tank and let it set for 24 to 48 hours. We tested the liquid at first to determine if the mixture was "sweet" enough to feed the bees based on specific gravity (1.405 mg). We found that the mixture was close to what our mix was. My answer for prevention of crystallization in your tank is to start circulating it at first before the syrup starts crystallizing. Steve Hanlin :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 16:03:26 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: HFCS storage and heating MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill said: I have been buying HFCS in 300 gallon totes and now want to move up to buying tanker loads. If you are going to always buy in tanker loads I would buy a tank built for fructose storage instead of a plastic tank. A close friend of mine has three 6,000 aluminum gallon honey/syrup tanks for sale , four 5,000 gallon honey/syrup tanks and a 12,000 gallon honey/syrup insulated honey/syrup tank for sale. Email me direct if interested. Can anyone give me some tips on liquifying HFCS once it has set up in plastic storage tanks? You never want the fructose to *set up* in a plastic storage tank. You need to keep a close eye on the fructose. You can drop a common 3,000 watt heater (without thermostat) from a farm store in the tank and keep liquid. I was able to keep a tote liquid over the winter last year using the above heater. Once pumped out in early spring I found no signs of crystalization in the bottom. I did the above as i expected after the second year of a severe drought I would need to feed at a minutes notice in a winter warm spell . I did not want the hassle of belt heating drums of fructose and the time involved. My bees did not need the feeding and I ended up having to pump the tote out right before the tanker arrived and I am sure the cost of running the 3.000 watt heater at times over the winter was not justified. I can get 42% fructose year around but need to drive around 150 miles to pick up. I can only get the 55% off a tanker. The way we do tankers is get what we need (or think we will) off the tanker in spring and again in fall in 300 gallon totes/ drums. By going in with other beekeepers in your area you should not have to buy more fructose than you think you will need but I always want a certain amount of surplus fructose around in drums if needed in a hurry. I keep my extra fructose in 55 gallon drums in summer out in the sun tightly sealed in black drums and the heat from the sun keeps the fructose liquid for fall use without having to store in a heated tank. I pump feed right out of the 300 gallon totes. Usually what is left after fall feeding we put in 55 gallon drums which are easier to liquify at a later date and then pump or pour into a tote. Bill asks: What is the storage life of 55 HFCS? I am sure years as I have feed three year old fructose. Crystalization happens faster when fructose is put in a container/tote which already has crystalization. I take my pump , hoses and lines apart at seasons end and flush with *hot* water. At seasons end I wash out totes with hot water and drain/run gasoline out of pump engine and change oil. I even stick in a new sparkplug. When I need to feed starving hives I want everything to work. A day wasted trying to clear a pump & line of crystalized syrup can be waste precious time and cause crystalization problems all spring. Sincerely, Bob Harrison :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 23:44:11 -0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Bamboo? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ABJ World Honey Report for October states: United States Northeast Colonies have continued to work late summer/fall flowers such as goldenrod, aster, and bamboo. Is this a misprint? I thought that bamboo rarely flowered (and then usually died). Also, I would not expect much bamboo in that area. Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 16:51:20 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Hack Subject: Re: HFCS storage and heating In-Reply-To: <200412081312.iB8D8Lfu017310@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > tips on liquifying HFCS once > it has set up in plastic storage tanks? What is the storage life of 55 > HFCS? Any other HFCS tips appreciated. > I put my tanks on a 2 inch Styrofoam sheet for insulation before filling. Wrap them with Reflectex or whatever works best for the shape of the tank and whatever is handy. Then I drop a soil heating cable into the tank. I keep a number of these handy in various wattages and use whatever size is called for depending on how hard the syrup has hardened and how cold the outside temperature is and the amount of syrup in the tank. These cables have a built in thermostat. Make sure this ends up inside the tank. The temperature is just right to do the job. Around 80 F (27 C) if I remember correctly. Some syrup I get (usually invert) does not form a hard crust, rather it starts to get a creamy consistency. I pump this of into pails and it hardens into a soft fondant. In spring I put a piece of 12 x 12 inch pizza paper on top of the frames and scoop a few hefty dollops of the 'fondant' on. Then squish down the inner cover down slowly. The pizza paper keeps the fondant off the cluster. When I come back in a few days it is all gone. The bees seem to really love it and thrive on it. I have found the invert seems to cause swarming so it must be used sparingly from April on. Those little girls just make piggies of themselves on invert. YMMV. Bob :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 19:01:29 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: John Cunningham Subject: HFCS heating and storage MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I had a tote crystallize. By putting a submersible heater in the = liquid in the middle and circulating it for several days it finally = liquefied. John Cunningham Perrysville, IN 100 and growing (I hope) :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2004 19:35:12 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: BEE-L: Bamboo! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > late summer/fall flowers such as goldenrod, > aster, and bamboo? Yes, bamboo. Japanese knotweed is a northern-hardy, true bamboo. It is VERY invasive, blooms late-August, early-September and produces a very nice dark red honey in copious amounts. Charles Andros claims bamboo holds his 1-day weight gain record - in northern Vermont! The honey sometimes is darker than buckwheat. The plant prefers wet areas, along creek beds. There is a stand on NYS Rt-88 near Owego that goes on for miles and miles! Naturalists are quite concerned about the invasive plant and want to irradicate it, but the plant is nearly indestructable. You can almost see it grow before your eyes. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 07:33:29 -0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: BEE-L: Bamboo! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit "Aaron Morris" wrote > Yes, bamboo. Japanese knotweed is a northern-hardy, true bamboo. Now if they had said Knotweed... But surely this is not a true bamboo? A quick search found that it is also known as Japanese Bamboo, False Bamboo, Mexican Bamboo etc, but it is a member of the Polygonacea - which are not bamboos. I see that Buckwheat and rhubarb are also members of the Polygonacea and that you can eat the young shoots of Knotweed (cut at 6-8" growth). Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 08:48:53 -0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dave Cushman Subject: Bamboo... Another use Comments: cc: Brian Cramp MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All Seeing the comments about bamboo as a nectar source, reminded me of the bamboo cell punches that I detailed a few days ago... http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/cellpunch.html Another use of bamboo is the weaving of cell protectors... http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/cellprotectors.html Regards and Best 73s, Dave Cushman G8MZY http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman or http://www.dave-cushman.net 'Fall Back', build 4.6 (almost stable) :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 06:45:06 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Betterbee Info Subject: Re: BEE-L: Bamboo! In-Reply-To: <63D883CB0A1B204EB053673DD882CB53933F29@email.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Yes, bamboo. Japanese knotweed is a northern-hardy, true bamboo "True" bamboos are actually in the grass family, and probably only useful for the pollen. Japanese knotweed is Polygonum cuspidatum, a different family altogether, and more closely related to plants like rhubarb. In fact the fresh shoots can be used just like rhubarb to make tasty pie. Shane :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 12 Dec 2004 03:05:45 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: BEE-L: Bamboo! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 12/9/2004 6:31:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, beekeepers@STRATFORD-UPON-AVON.FREESERVE.CO.UK writes: But surely this is not a true bamboo? A quick search found that it is also known as Japanese Bamboo, False Bamboo, Mexican Bamboo etc, but it I don't know what kind it is. It grows up to about seven feet tall, purple to red tint in the stalk. When I lived on the Connecticut shoreline, my yard was being taken over by it. I would mowed it down (not an easy task) and it grows back one foot tall the next day. Some of the swamper areas around here are loaded with it. I've dried it out to make tomato stakes. It is a very sturdy bamboo. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/BEE-L for rules, FAQ and other info --- ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::