From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 10:28:11 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-83.9 required=2.4 tests=ADVANCE_FEE_1,ADVANCE_FEE_2, AWL,MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR,SPF_HELO_PASS,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Delivered-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 249E449086 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:53 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SEr0CB013917 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:52 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:50 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0606E" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Message-ID: Content-Length: 42252 Lines: 1041 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 20:17:55 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mike Stoops Subject: Re: heating foundation wiring In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit joe bossom wrote:I have a mini electro arc welder that was designed for melting hard silver solder, (jewelry makers tool) would that be appropriate for steel wire? With that outfit, you wouldn't imbed the wire, you would slice the wax foundation if you didn't melt the cross wires. Way too much current. I think the amount of current that used to run model trains would be more in line with what you want to imbed cross wires into foundation. Mike in LA --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 22:14:30 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Destroy Bees In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Richard: Dry Ice. Respectfully submitted: Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OrganicBeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:46:29 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Joe Mc Cool Subject: Re: heating foundation wiring In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Disposition: inline On Wed, Jun 28, 2006 at 05:35:11PM -0400, joe bossom wrote: > for those who use electric current to heat the wires that meld into foundation, what current/amperage do you use, DC? AC? I have a mini electro arc welder that was designed for melting hard silver solder, (jewelry makers tool) would that be appropriate for steel wire? > \\technical on There is no difference between X volts AC and X volts DC. When we talk about X volts AC, we mean the RMS value ("root of the mean of the square of the voltages"), that is - the voltage that has the same _heating effect_ as X volts DC. \\technical off I myself have used a 12v car battery (DC), a cheap 6/12v battery charger and I am now using a 240v->12v transfomer (ie AC) (out of a school lab). All work fine. I too suspect your welder will be a bit of an overkill. It may melt the wires before it melts the wax ! Try it. Thanks ____________________ Joe Mc Cool Snark, currently Shannon Harbour 028 37548074, 07802572441 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 08:20:45 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: pencaemawr Subject: Re: heating foundation wiring In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.0.20060628204110.03b60138@pop.together.net> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; delsp=yes; charset=iso-8859-15 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I used to use a controller from a model railway set, which can be adjusted to bring the rate of melting under control. But life is too short for foundation wiring when wired foundation is available! Regards, John Burgess On Thu, 29 Jun 2006 01:42:29 +0100, Michael Palmer wrote: >> what current/amperage do you use, DC? AC? > > > I use 6 volt auto battery charger. 12 volt melts the wires. > Mike > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:34:15 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Ruary Rudd Subject: Re: Destroy Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In the days when bees were kept in skeps, the colonies from which a harvest was wanted were placed over a sulphur pit which was a pit with buring sulphur. In more modern days I suppose that Sulphur dioxide could be made from Sodium sulphite and a weak acid, or Thorne's in the UK are selling sulphur strips for fumigating supers for waxmoth and they could be used Ruary > a good method to destroy a hive of bees and not contaminate the honey -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 06:48:39 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: heating foundation wiring In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-54E230BC > wired foundation is available! Do you mean vertical wires? But with only vertical wires, the foundation will warp, and combs be distorted. The vertical wires come off a roll, and maintain a slight curve. I don't want curved combs, and with 2 horizontal wires, embedded, the combs are drawn straight. Mike -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.2/372 - Release Date: 6/21/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 06:56:37 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: heating foundation wiring In-Reply-To: <20060629074629.GA7282@benburb.demon.co.uk> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-54E230BC I once had a guy from Peru working for me. Really nice guy, but I think he didn't fully grasp "modern" technology...like electricity. So, anyway, he was embedding wires using my 6v battery charger, and wire embedder. From time to time, the two contact points that touch the horizontal wires get coated with wax, and must be cleaned. Well, he thought he just needed more juice. He jams the two leads directly into the wall socket and presses the button. Contact!! Shoulda saved that one for the fourth of July!! :-) Mike -- Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.2/372 - Release Date: 6/21/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 10:18:33 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Milt_Lathan?= Subject: swarm rejected hive? Or? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi, I got a swarm call from a friend who is a bee-landlord for me. Seems a small (2 pounds) swarm settled in an apple tree in the neighbors yard next door. I grabbed a top, a mesh bottom floor, a very old brood box with frames varying from almost black to brand new Pierco. This frame combo has worked great before - but, not this time. After knocking the bees from the branch into the box, I saw the queen walk down onto one of the old frames. I waited a couple of minutes as many bees were fanning enthusiastically then slowly put the inner cover and then the top on. 5 minutes later, there were more bees coming out of the hive than there were going in and all fanning had ceased. The bees crawling up the hive front looked like a forming swarm. Gradually a cluster formed on the same branch in the tree. Next, I knocked the cluster into a cardboard box - and immediately the fanning resumed. I set the open carton in front of the hive on the ground and I left them there overnight. This morning (cool) there was a tight cluster in the carton. I up-ended the carton over the inner cover so they will have to exit through the hive box. I have never had a problem with a swarm I could reach easily so I keep wondering - were they rejecting the hive box? (Or, maybe I rushed things because the neighbors were watching me.) -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:18:03 -0500 Reply-To: scot.mcpherson@gmail.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Scot Mc Pherson Organization: The Mc Pherson Family Honey Farms Subject: Re: Destroy Bees In-Reply-To: <001001c69b56$ce41f680$0101a8c0@DF9MK81J> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Or even sodium metabisulphate or potassium metabisulphate. You can get it at wine making supply sources pretty cheaply. Don't breath the fumes, it'll take your breath away. -- Scot McPherson -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 17:27:53 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>were they rejecting the hive box? (Or, maybe I rushed things because the neighbors were watching me.) I had a similar situation 2 weeks ago. I removed a colony from a person's house wall. At home (some 15 mi away) that eveining, I shook the bees out of the bee vac box into a nuc with some of the colony's own brood and eggs (a couple of loose combs). I checked them before going to work the next morning and they seemed fine - I even located the queen on a frame. When I returned from work they were up in a nearby tree. I shook them down into the nuc again. The next morning, I lifted the nuc lid and seemed happy and had even started drawing out one frame. When I returned from work the next day, they were gone and history. The nuc was empty with abondoned brood. They could not have overheated since the nuc was in some shade and the weather was in the 70's. It's a lesson learned - can't expect a swarm or a moved colony to stay put in a new box. Next time, I'll slide an excluder under the box for a few days until the queen starts laying in the new box! Clipping the queen's wing would ensure she and the bees don't get very far should they abscond but I don't like clipping wings. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 23:02:51 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Joe Mc Cool Subject: DIY apidea boxes Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Disposition: inline Please, has anyone got ideas for low cost apidea boxes - ie small mating boxes where I place a queen cell and a few workers. For example - I'd thought of trying a small flower pot, but it needs a facility for feeding. Thanks ____________________ Joe Mc Cool Snark, currently Shannon Harbour 028 37548074, 07802572441 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 22:04:13 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Probably a mating swarm and the young queen had not finished mating. Best wishes Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 22:35:12 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 25 Jun 2006 to 26 Jun 2006 (#2006-164) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Waldemar asked: > How are A.m.m. when it comes to varroa? Reputed to have some resistance, so selection work is ongoing. The majority of my bees are dark and more native than not - but only perhaps 10% are pure A.m.m., so I cannot make too many claims. What I can say is that varroa arrived here in 1997 and since then I have only used thymol to treat for varroa, my theory being that bees have to be exposed to varroa in order to develop resistance (backed up by Sue Cobey when she spoke at the BIBBA AGM this spring. Thymol keeps levels below the damage threshold, but leaves the bees exposed to some mites. Most of the yellow bees that I had have since died, showing high susceptibility to DWV. At first I treated March and August, but have cut out the March treatments for the past couple of years as there are so few mites. Last winter I had 5% losses - none of those were pure A.m.m. So far this year I have only seen about 6 bees with deformed wings. Last year I started with 120 colonies, produced 5.5 tonnes of honey and finished with 163 colonies (no 'foreign' swarms collected). My breeding programme this year aims to eliminate as many Italian genes as I can from my stocks. > What I also would like to know: is anyone keeping A.m.m. in the US?? Pass! Best wishes Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 23:32:06 +0100 Reply-To: honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: james kilty Organization: honey mountain Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? In-Reply-To: <20060629.102833.25663.247485@webmail53.nyc.untd.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Thu, 2006-06-29 at 17:27 +0000, waldig@netzero.com wrote: > I shook the bees out of the bee vac box into a nuc > and > can't expect a swarm or a moved colony to > stay put in a new box. I have never lost a collected swarm since I decided to throw them on the traditional sheet and let them walk into the hive. I wonder if the last step of the swarm's move to a new home is simulated by this action, whereas throwing them into a hive does not, and completes their instinctive need. james kilty http://www.honeymountain.co.uk -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 21:02:26 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?jeffrey_Peck?= Subject: Re: Destroy Bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Is this a hot hive? Why not just shake out the bees and take the honey away? -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 21:07:32 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Lackey, Raymond J (US SSA)" Subject: Compensation for expenses - an aside MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable State organizations, like the Empire State Honey Producers Association (ESHPA), and Local often have a member who attends national (or state) organization meetings, sometimes with a formal voting position. These people may or may not regularly attend these meetings if it weren't for their responsibility. This often results in a commitment of a week of their time a year plus $1000 or more travel and registration expenses. We, ESHPA, are trying to develop a policy for some remuneration for these services and are identifying a number of possible options. We would thus like to solicit information from the list as to what your different organizations do in this situation. To save list chatter on this side issue, I would invite direct responses to my email address below. Please include "BEE-L" in the subject for my filter passage. I will compile a single list and publish it for information of others who may be interested. =20 Raymond J. Lackey Sweet Pines Apiary Director - Long Island Region - Empire State Honey Producers Association Phone:(631)567-1936 FAX:(631)262-8053 mail: 1260 Walnut Avenue, Bohemia, NY 11716-2176 web page: http://www.tianca.com/tianca2.html email home: lackeyray@tianca.com =20 =20 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 21:16:25 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Kent Stienburg Subject: Re: heating foundation wiring MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I use a small transformer from Hammond that is 115 vac primary to 5 vac secondary with 6 amps. I mounted it in a small metal box you can get at Home Depot or an electrical wholesale. I soldiered an alligater clip lead on to one lead from the secondary, grounded it, and ran it straight out to the frame and the other I ran the lead to a push button I mounted on the top of the box then ran it also out to the frame. Clip both leads on opposite ends of the wire on the frame and push the button. About 3 - 5 seconds will do it. I fuse the primary side at 4 amps. Kent Ontario Canada -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2006 20:59:29 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, > Next time, I'll slide an excluder under the box for a few days until the queen starts laying in the new box! Works everytime! When I was a boy my beekeeping mentor (90+years old) said to rub the leaves of a peach tree on the box and the bees would stay. I run a small orchard (which includes peach trees) and found the method has a degree of success. Over the last few decades the bees seem to prefer the peach tees for swarming, Then pine trees and last apple trees. I have never had bees swarm into a pear tree, cherry tree, Asian pear or Missouri almond tree ( I brought back from California on a flatbed bee truck as far as I know the first almond trees to Missouri around five years ago). Also the bees have never swarmed into a freestone peach tree but only Redhaven peach trees. Very strange! I get a few swarms every spring in the orchard as I usually keep around a 100 new hives in the field by the orchard in April but this spring over 200. I guess this will be my last year keeping so many new hives on the place . Not because of stings as neither my wife or the neighbors got stung but all complained about the cars being poop bombed. Bee poop not washed will lift paint about the size of a pencil lead off some car paint jobs. I carry with me also special swarm boxes made from a full depth hive body which is screened on the bottom (8 mesh) and a screened (8 mesh) removable lid. I take these with me on which ever truck we are using in the swarm season. At the end of the day if a swarm is caught I place the swarm box in a dark cool place overnight and spray with sugar water. When hived the next day they usually stay put. Sincerely, Bob Harrison -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 10:01:30 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dave Cushman Subject: Re: DIY apidea boxes In-Reply-To: <20060629220251.GA31496@benburb.demon.co.uk> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Joe > For example - I'd thought of trying a small flower pot, but it needs a > facility for feeding. Having spent a lot of time and effort over more than 20 years, pursuing things like flower pots and fish boxes, nothing beats a hinged frame like the one shown on... http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/bifoldfr.html The example shown is British National size, but the principle can be extended to any other size of frame. The complexity of making the folding frame is offset by the ease and speed with which you can set up a mating nuc, which you will do hundreds of times more often than making the frames. If you follow the links on that page and look at some of the other pages on various types of nucs, you will see some of the way I developed the idea. Regards & Best 73s, Dave Cushman, G8MZY http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman or http://www.dave-cushman.net Short FallBack M/c, Build 6.02/3.1 (stable) -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 12:24:17 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>Over the last few decades the bees seem to prefer the peach teesf or swarming... I'll keep an eye. I planted a peach tree two years ago. In fact, it has borne fruit for the first time this year. If I recall it's the variety you mention - Redhaven. >>Missouri almond tree ( I brought back from California on a flatbed bee truck as far as I know the first almond trees to Missouri around five years ago). Stark Brothers from Louisiana, Missouri :)) has been selling self- pollinating, hardy almond trees for years. I bought and planted one 2 years ago. >>special swarm boxes made from a full depth hive body which is screened on the bottom (8 mesh) and a screened (8 mesh) removable lid. I keep my bee vac and cardboard boxes in the trunk. The inner box in the bee vac set-up has screen sides. If there is no place to plug in the vac, I shake/brush the bees into the screened box. I have seem photos of some giant swarms but the ones I've encountered had 3 lb of bees at most. Waldemar -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 12:38:56 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 25 Jun 2006 to 26 Jun 2006 (#2006-164) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>A.m.m..... Last year I started with 120 colonies, produced 5.5 tonnes of honey... Very nice. I visited my beekeeping uncle in Poland a few weeks ago. He keeps 100 colonies and gets 5 tonnes of honey in an average year. Do you practice migratory beekeeping? My uncle does. A stationary apiary in his area would produce a lot less. I noted his bees looked very dark but unlike the Carniolans we have in the US. He produces his own queens and only occasionally swaps a couple of queens with other beekeepers to raise drones with different genetics. His bees seemed a bit more defensive than mine although qucikly responded to smoke and run a little more on the frame. I wonder if his bees have A.m.m. genetics... The queens were typically very dark with occasional yellow spots along the bottom of the abdomen. >>What I also would like to know: is anyone keeping A.m.m. in the US?? Pass! >From what I've hard, I think A.m.m. could do very well in the wet, cool Northwest of the US. Waldemar -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 08:36:20 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, >Stark Brothers from Louisiana, Missouri :)) has been selling self- pollinating, hardy almond trees for years. I bought and planted one 2 years ago. I don't believe those are true almonds like in California or they would need bee pollination. I am not sure what the difference is but they are similar but different. California almond growers would love to find a self pollinating almond tree! My non parel bloomed this year but the sonora pollinator did not so no almonds. Also It will be a rare year I get any almonds due to the fact only a few hours at 24 F. and below will ruin the crop. Glad i have only six and not 6000 in Missouri! They are a beautiful true, The bees love the bloom and are on a peach root stock so winter hardy trees for my area. I do believe they can fall prey to the peach tree borer if not careful. I bought mine through a large California almond grower we did pollination for at one fifth the cost to the public so why not plant a few? No shipping as I hauled back myself. Bob -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 15:03:50 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>I don't believe those are true almonds like in California... Stark claims their All-In-One almonds are genuine - 'the real McCoy'. They are self-pollinating and hardy with the flavor of California almonds. Please check www.starkbros.com for Prunus dulcis var. dulcis 'All-In-One.' Perhaps these almonds will turn out a little smaller in size? >>California almond growers would love to find a self pollinating almond tree! I'll bet! I've been also reading the same California growers are now seeking to ban bees within 2 miles of their Clementine mandarine groves in order to ensure seedless fruit...causing beeekeepers to miss out on an important honey crop. Waldemar -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 12:12:56 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Randy_Oliver?= Subject: sperm genetics Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit re: "All drone eggs laid in the hive will be genetic clones of the queen" To be a clone, wouldn't the eggs have to be diploid? Since drone eggs are haploid, they only reflect half of the queen's alleles for each gene. A dark-eyed queen can give rise to a white-eyed drone--hardly a clone! Randy Oliver California -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 12:52:57 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Randy_Oliver?= Subject: hot tank Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Re: So, this is effective against FB ? I don't know where I can get pine rosin in Ireland ? AFB spores are killed by heat, and rendered inactive by being incapsulated in wax. The rosin is obtained from any chemical supplier (or Mann Lake). It's produced in Portugal and Brazil. Randy Oliver -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 13:30:51 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Randy_Oliver?= Subject: SMR Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Waldemar, Re: This is what has been said of the so-called SMR bees - tolerant of varroa but not productive. I've tried all kinds of SMR crosses, and most have been miserable bees--weak and hard to keep alive. The problem apparently is finding the right cross. Last year I had Glenn Apiaries make me a Minnesota Hygienic x SMR cross. This was a magical combination!!!! (This individual queen, anyway--don't know if it can be replicated). I raised about a hundred daughters from her and ran them last year in alfalfa, then overwintered in snow, then to almond pollination. Her offspring show the Varroa Sensitive Hygiene by uncapping and removing infested pupae, and were by far the best bees I've seen in many years. They have negligible levels of Varroa, winter well, survive adverse conditions--my last load in almonds got stuck in the rain for a month with no bloom or weeds. Other colonies in the same orchard were on the verge of starvation, but her daughters came out looking like they came from a spring honeyflow--big brood nests, heavy with fresh honey and nectar, and thriving! They apparently can make honey from mud :) I've never been so amazed! When I return from almonds, I nuc up everything, and in the process go through every frame of every colony. After a while this spring, we could recognize daughters of this breeder by their incredible brood nests and populations before we even checked the hive label. I've been grafting this year again off the original mother (in her second year--now that she's proven herself by producing great daughters) and off her best daughters. I've sold many nucs, and the feedback is that those nucs headed by the original queen or her daughters far outperform everything else. In my operation, they are making the difference between financial profit and loss. I've been keeping bees for 40+ years, and breeding queens for 20+ years. For the past 5 years I've been breeding for Varroa resistance, and trying most of the resistant lines offered for sale. This queen line is the most exciting thing I've seen. I don't know if this cross can be replicated, and this year I'm trying the reciprocal cross (again from Glenn). But her best daughters are producing exceptional daughters of their own, the the traits are heritable. I'd like to get her genetics out to the beekeeping fraternity, but I'm too busy to produce queens for sale or shipping on large scale (I raise about 1000 a season for my own use and local sale). I'm not looking to hoard this queen line, and sure think her genes should be as widely disseminated as possible. Any queen producers out there interested??? I'm open to suggestions. Email me directly. Randy Oliver California -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 18:49:44 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: *** SPAM *** Re: [BEE-L] swarm rejected hive? Or? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bob wrote: >> Next time, I'll slide an excluder under the > box for a few days until the queen starts laying in the new box! > > Works everytime! Unless it is a new queen and she has not mated properly. > Over the last few decades the bees seem to prefer the peach tees for > swarming, You know, I have never had bees swarm into a peach tree :-) , proves that all beekeeping is local. Round here they seem to prefer hawthorn - which is not my first choice when removing a swarm! Best wishes Peter Edwards beekeepers@stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk www.stratford-upon-avon.freeserve.co.uk/ -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 14:12:41 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Milt_Lathan?= Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit UPDATE: 2 days later - the little swarm has taken over the brood box I gave them. They are still using the cardboard carton which I plan to take away tomorrow morning before they start working. BTW - I believe this queen is NOT mated, no sign and she is very slim. "Mating Swarm" - is that the same as an After-swarm? One more thing, I've been assuming this is a swarm from my Carniolan hive 35 feet away 'cause the bees in the swarm are dark like mine. But, the queen is golden in color! -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 13:12:19 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: swarm rejected hive? Or? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, >Perhaps these almonds will turn out a little smaller in size? I don't know. I do know what California almonds look and taste like right off the tree. A couple people have said the Stark Brothers "hardy almond" is very different than those grown in California. Maybe you can send me a couple to look at and try when they start producing? I have got quite a few Stark Brothers trees and have been very happy with most varieties but disappointed with a couple varieties. NOT THE TREES as they arrived in good shape and were healthy. I like their service and if in the area of their farms they give tours which I took a few years ago while on my way to Dadant for supplies. > California growers are now seeking to ban bees within 2 miles of their Clementine mandarin groves in order to ensure seedless fruit...causing beeekeepers to miss out on an important honey crop. The billionaire " King of California" Stewart Resnick (google his name)could end the problem if he would sit down with the eighteen commercial beekeepers involved *in my opinion* So far all beekeepers are speaking with are his lawyers! Bob -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 20:21:05 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dave Cushman Subject: Re: sperm genetics In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Randy > re: "All drone eggs laid in the hive will be genetic clones of > the queen" See my correction of 6/27/06 9:28 AM, under the subject Re: [BEE-L] 1Q multiple drones. Regards & Best 73s, Dave Cushman, G8MZY http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman or http://www.dave-cushman.net Short FallBack M/c, Build 6.02/3.1 (stable) -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 21:16:19 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lennard Pisa Subject: Re: DIY apidea boxes In-Reply-To: <20060629220251.GA31496@benburb.demon.co.uk> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Dear Joe, At the local co-op and sometimes at wall-mart I've seen small stryfoam coolers with lids that cost around 3 dollars and seem exellent mating hives to me. They have a ridge inside that would allow attachment of (self made) frame-spacers or bars to hold self-spacing frames. However...they smell intensily like styrofoam. If this smell can't be washed out it might be a problem. cheers, Lennard -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 23:50:19 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Joe Mc Cool Subject: bee and hive graphics Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Disposition: inline Please, where can I get free, reasonable quality, graphics of honey bees and/or hives ? My Google searches have turned up nothing of note. Thanks ____________________ Joe Mc Cool Snark, currently Shannon Harbour 028 37548074, 07802572441 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info ---