From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 10:28:48 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-90.4 required=2.4 tests=AWL,MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR, SPF_HELO_PASS,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Delivered-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 3B48B49088 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:53 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SEr0CD013917 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:52 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:50 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0607B" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Message-ID: Content-Length: 64772 Lines: 1393 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 07:05:20 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: Bees must go so tree can go. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A large cork temporarily inserted might solve the problem, but if the job is going to take more than a few minutes ventillation would be a consideration and mesh greenhouse shading applied the evening before when all the bees are within would keep them in for the duration and let them not suffocate. Chris -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 11:15:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: John Howe Subject: observation hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear List- I am planning to do a beekeeping presentation and bring an observation = hive. I own one but have never used it. The bees will be on display for = up to 5 hours max. They will not be free. Is this too long to keep them = pent up? My other question is: what do they need for sustenance? The = hive has a feeder. What should I put in it? Water? Sugar syrup?=20 The hive will be in the shade and supervised the whole time . Any other = considerations I ought to be aware of? Any advice would be most welcome. Yours, John Howe The Brooklyn Bee -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2006 18:53:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Brian_Fredericksen?= Subject: pressure filtering beeswax Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I am looking to put together a home made system for pressure filtering beeswax. Does anyone have any suggestions? -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2006 00:23:54 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: observation hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >question is: what do they need for sustenance? The hive has a feeder. What >should I put in it? Water? Sugar syrup? >The hive will be in the shade and supervised the whole time . Any other >considerations I ought to be aware of? >Any advice would be most welcome. Sugar syrup goes in the feeder. I've been going to the local schools with mine. I have an Ulster Observation hive, it has a nuc built into it. I can load it and leave it in the yard for weeks before I use it. Some words of advice. Do a trial run in your own house for a day or two. Be real sure your hive is "bee tight". Some dead bees are normal, as they can't clean house penned up. A lot of dead bees are usually a ventilation problem. Auto glass is the best choice. There is always going to be at least one kid (or adult) who hates bees and may try to kill them if they have a chance. In the absence of auto glass, sheets of Plexiglas over the regular glass works. Don't switch the regular glass for the Plexiglas, however. The bees make a mess of it. I carry a bag in with me. In it I have honey and plastic spoons for sampling, an Epipen and a spray bottle of rubbing alcohol. Observation hives are very attractive to local bees. You may pick up a few "hobos" just walking across the parking lot. Stop at the door, triple check and spray the "hobos" before you go in. If you want to see a room full of people freak out, show them a Observation hive with a few loose bees in the room. In the event of an emergency like this, shut off the lights and the bees will collect on the windows. It sounds like your planning an outside demonstration. You should plan on local bees coming to visit, and plan to discreetly get rid of them. Also, it takes almost no time in the sun to kill the hive. They overheat quickly. Don't be discouraged! A well planned out live honey bee demonstration is a wonderful thing. I used to plan out long speeches, now I just uncover the hive and let them pound me with questions. I've been bringing a couple of bee suits with me for people to try on and a few drones in a jar for the brave to handle if they want. I also bring my youngest daughter, Sydney. She is four years old and has zero fear of honey bees. Sydney shows the adults how to handle drones and how to put on a bee suit. Your going to find a few people in the crowd that hate bees, that think your crazy and nothing you say will change that. Also, a few will think your the most amazing person they have ever met. Maybe a couple will get into beekeeping themselves. Everyone leaves with more than what they came with. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2006 01:05:43 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: Wierd Bee MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Lately, in probably 3 or so fields I have run into one very specific type > of > bee. This bee has a light grey body and a bright yellow head. It is > probably > about 2cm long or so and 3/4 cm wide. It sounds like a drone Carpenter Bee, the color is wrong. You may have a different speices than I have here. If so, they are harmless. He is trying to drive you from his mating area, but does not really have the means to do it. Here is a stupid trick that will amaze the kids. Point a stick at it and it will hover around the tip, move the stick and the bee will follow it. Tell the kids you have a trained bee. Works every time. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2006 08:33:11 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Leslie J. Huston" Subject: Re: observation hive In-Reply-To: <000801c6a2a1$4aa5ebe0$6600a8c0@john> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Five hours cooped up is no problem, since as you say they will be in the SHADE and supervised. I don't even fill the feeder for a one day event. Pull a frame that has some open nectar on it and they'll be fine. If you can pull one that has some honey and some brood it makes for a great presentation - the different contents can be showcased. I bring along a squirt bottle of sugar syrup and squirt/dribble some in through one of the vent holes on the top. It runs down the glass and when the bees find it they mop it up - much fun to watch. Whether the queen makes the road trip or stays behind in the parent hive (I've done it both ways), as long as you return the frame to the hive that same evening or the next morning (if it's too dark when returning), all is fine. Everybody will mingle peaceably, and there won't be any free comb impinging the returning frame. Oh, you get demerits for having bees pinned (alive or dead) between the comb and the glass ... it's a sad thing to look at all day. So try to pull a frame with comb that isn't "fat" and then be careful when you place it in the hive. I saw Jim Hock's comment about testing ahead of time to be sure the hive is bee-tight, which reminds me: have a garbage bag on hand that can contain the hive. In the off chance that the hive *develops* a "bee leak" you can throw the bag over the whole thing and get it outta there. Have fun!!! - Leslie Newtown, CT -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 09:26:30 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Joe Mc Cool Subject: Re: observation hive In-Reply-To: <002001c6a30f$7ec20800$6d9de444@D3Q8NS51> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Disposition: inline On Sun, Jul 09, 2006 at 12:23:54AM -0400, James W. Hock wrote: > mine. I have an Ulster Observation hive, it has a nuc built into it. I Oh please, please, what is that ? Intriqued. Joe Mc Cool Ulster -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 13:32:15 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Bees must go so tree can go. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Dennis, >>There is a small hole it the trunk about 25 feet up with honey bees flying in and out. I'm glad these tree cutters have not opted to spray the bees - most do. I'd suggest the following approach: 1. Late in the evening, the day before the tree cutters arrive, climb up to the hole and screen it over (window screening or #4 mesh). You can use a 24-ft ladder. 2. The tree cutters normally work from a bucket starting at the top of the tree and working their way towards the ground. Let them do this but stop when they are about 5 ft above the entrance hole. 3. Smoke the bees through the screened entrance hole. The tree cutters should then cut about 12" off the main trunk until they come across the nest top or you can see bees through the empty hole. 4. Smoke the bees again and screen the open top. Have the cutters make the next cut approx. 5 ft under the entrance hole and lower this section to the ground. If there is an open hole at the bottom, you'll need to screen or nail a piece of plywood on to contain the bees. 5. The cutters can now finish removing the tree. 6. You can now have the fun of taking the tree section with the bees apart and moving them into a hive. Waldemar Long Island, NY PS. I've removed many honey bee nests. I can give you a hand, if you'd like. Drop me an email directly. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 11:49:14 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: observation hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >> mine. I have an Ulster Observation hive, it has a nuc built into it. I > > Oh please, please, what is that ? Brushy Mountain sells them. http://www.beeequipment.com They don't include a picture in the on-line catalog. Maybe because it is pretty easy to duplicate. I made my own because I needed one for medium frames. I added a bunch of things to mine, a hidden bottom panel that covers a double screened bottom board, double screened ventilation hole and a queen excluder under the observation area. I can't post a picture here. I'll e-mail you directly. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 00:45:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Allen Subject: Drones and tracheal mites Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I found this interesting: http://www.ars.usda.gov/research/publications/Publications.htm?seq_no_115=174253 Regards, Dick Allen -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 16:30:37 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Eric_Brown?= Subject: Re: observation hive Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>> I have an Ulster Observation hive, it has a nuc built into it. I >> >> Oh please, please, what is that ? > >Brushy Mountain sells them. http://www.beeequipment.com >They don't include a picture in the on-line catalog. Maybe because it is I just got someone to fix that. There should be a picture online now at the following link: http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/products.asp?pcode=u501 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 01:53:05 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: observation hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I just got someone to fix that. There should be a picture online now at > the following link: > > http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/products.asp?pcode=u501 There it is! It's a wonderful tool. I haven't seen this one in person, but looking at the picture, I would replace the latches with the locking type. I didn't see covers for the glass. Assuming that the point of having an observation hive like this is to leave it outside until you need it, covers are important. For the time I spent building mine, I probably could have just as easily bought this one. The hive in the picture is deep frames, I couldn't carry this far. I built my hive for medium frames. While I could carry it under my arm, I carry mine on a small dolly. Full of bees and syrup, it is not exactly light. I toyed with, and dismissed the idea of putting a handle on top. It would be to much weight on those latches. For just a day trip, one frame (and queen) under the glass and a little syrup works fine. For a few days, I load it with the queen on the frame in the glass, two frames of emerging brood/pollen, two empty frames, and the feeder half full. When I have it on the dolly, the hive is tilted. I don't need to leave a trail of syrup. To load it for more than a few days, I might remover the queen excluder. Dead bees collect on it. I have not left it in the yard for more than a couple of days loaded. When I do, I drop the top frame down and leave and empty frame under the glass. An Ulster hive adds new meaning to the term "family pet". A couple of times I brought it along to family outings because the kids demanded it. It has been the centerpiece at the dinner table more than once. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 20:18:34 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: The Inglenook Subject: Saga of the Robber Bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit For the past 5 days or so, I have been dealing with, what appears to be, some very aggressive robber bees. Admittedly, the hive is weak and has been slow getting up to speed, and as far as I know this hive is the only one in about a five mile radius of suburbia. So I'm assuming that the robber bees are feral. This past Saturday morning I found my bees (Italians with yellow and black striped abdomens) doing battle with robber bees (upper half of abdomen yellow, lower half black). I immediately reduced the entrance down to one bee width, smoked the front, and threw a wet sheet over the hive. Sunday there was still some activity around the sides of the sheet, so I left it on, rewetting it occasionally. By Monday morning things seemed back to normal, the sheet has been on for over two days, so I took the sheet off. By late in the day the robber bees were back. That night I constructed a bee screen and attached it to the front. On Tuesday morning it appeared that the screen was working, not too many bees leaving the hive, but a lot of robber bees around the sides and bouncing off the screen. By that afternoon the robber bees had found out how to get through the slot at the top of the screen and the bees were doing battle behind the screen in front of the entrance. I smoked the entrance again, left the screen in place and put the wet sheet back on. Wednesday morning, things look normal. Some dead soldiers in front, but I don't see any guard bees, so now I become concerned that they may have given up (which I understand from my reading up on this, is a possiblity). I take off the sheet, leave the screen. I don't get a chance to look at it again until this afternoon, and I find that the robber bees are back just as strong as the first day, and they're behind the screen doing battle again. I put a bar across the top of the screen so there's no way in or out, but still ventilation (there's still a covered hivetop feeder in place, so there's food available). I'm just amazed, they're out there right now, IN THE RAIN, looking for a way in. I've been afraid to open the hive with the robber bees around thinking that it could make things worse. I've never spilled any syrup when filling the feeder several weeks ago; I can't think of any reason they would end up at this hive to rob. I'm at a loss as to what to do. Any suggestions from vast array of knowledge out there? -George -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 20:46:03 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: AL BOEHM Subject: Re: Saga of the Robber Bees-move- MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Wait till dark, pack them up and move them to a friends place, hopefully more than 5 miles away probably for at least 2 or 3 weeks or until they build up enough for defensive work It may take longer for the robbers to forget them. Good Luck. AL BOEHM Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 8:18 PM Subject: [BEE-L] Saga of the Robber Bees > For the past 5 days or so, I have been dealing with, what appears to be, > some very aggressive > robber bees. . I'm at a loss as to what to do. Any suggestions from > vast array of knowledge out there? > -George > -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 21:12:38 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: Saga of the Robber Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, Once a robber bee has gained entrance and returned to her hive then the number of robbers steadily increase. The only way to stop the robbing is to stop the robber gals from bringing the honey back to the hive. They do seem to remember the last place they robbed honey for awhile. If a plant starts producing nectar the robbing will stop. At least while the flow is on. I have got bees trying to rob around the honey processing area always when a flow is not on. I think they smell the honey as they can not gain entrance to the extracting area or maybe the gals are waiting for a truck load of supers to arrive. The supers are fair game for about fifteen minutes until the pallets are moved into the processing area. Look inside and see what's left of the your hive. Maybe already robbed out? I would have looked inside a week ago. Putting out feed/honey around 200 feet in another direction might ease the robbing. What I did today when I had the roll up door open cleaning up. Robbing is normal for bees. Some races are worse about robbing than others. in large yards we see weak hives robbed on a regular basis. Reduced entrance or not. I cull boxes with holes other than on the front . Bees love to rob through holes & cracks. My answer is to combine weak hives and not keep "dinks" around . Keep a close watch for and eliminate hives with problems. Combine or shake the bees out and toss the equipment on the truck. I tolerate "dink" hives in survivor test yards but never in production yards. Sincerely, Bob Harrison -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 12:01:25 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Lehr, Carl" Subject: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This spring, we got 3 Buckfast packages from the Weavers. Thus far, = they have drawn a lot of comb and built up their numbers with = extraordinary speed. However, they have become so hot that they are now = "untouchable" and I mean, untouchable in full beekeeping coveralls = wearing a Sheriff's bee veil and leather gloves. =20 My wife and I have been stung through our protection on our forearms = and legs, through our pants with amazingly strange ferocity. We walked = away to almost 300 yards and remained for about 40-45 minutes and still = had two groups of fierce bees buzzing on the way back to our vehicle. = We've never had bees that wouldn't leave you in 50-100 feet much less = 300 yards and yes, we've washed all of our protection between three = different visits. None of our other bees have been affected and remain as docile as a = lamb but we are to the point of having to decide whether to destroy = these bees or leave them alone till winter. While we realize that all we have to do is "requeen"; the problem is = being able to get into the hive long enough to find the queen and = dispatch her. We really don't want to destroy the bees but we are = deeply concerned that we've inadvertently been sent bees with = African-type tendencies. Is this possible or are we being paranoid? Any = help/recommendations/advice you could provide would be greatly = appreciated and save our Buckfasts from an untimely/unnecessary demise. PS: For those who have inquired off Bee-L; our feral hive/queen have = adapted to our Langstroth hives very well and are building magnificent = comb with Queenie laying eggs corner to corner. As such, we intend to = keep her as long as she lasts for our own research purposes. Thanks for = your inquiries. Dave and Kristi Lehr Westminster, Maryland -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 18:59:22 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Carl, >>3 Buckfast packages... so hot that they are now "untouchable" ... We walked away to almost 300 yards and remained for about 40-45 minutes and still had two groups... Is your apiary out in the country? If yes, you are fortunate at least in this regard. I dread if and when we find these Africanized bees in our N-E suburbia. I would not order queens from Africanized areas. I don't care for rosy advertisements that don't qualify the possibility of getting Africanized genes. I often marvel, when removing feral colonies from homes here, how docile our EHB bees are. It would be a shame if this will become a thing of the past. >>None of our other bees have been affected and remain as docile as a lamb... Keep an eye on these queens (I hope they are marked!). AHB often take over EHB hives and supercedure can produce hot behavior if there are AHB drones in the area. >>we are to the point of having to decide whether to destroy these bees or leave them alone till winter. My advice is not to wait. Since they are strong, these 'devils' are raising drones RIGHT NOW that will mate with any virgin in your neighborhood. >>While we realize that all we have to do is "requeen"; the problem is being able to get into the hive long enough to find the queen and dispatch her. I also understand that AHB are not easy to requeen. If I were in your shoes, I'd wrap each of the AHB hive in small-eye netting and catch most of its workforce live with a bee vac. With light agitation, the work force should come out of the hive en masse to defend. Just stick a bee-vac hose in the netting and capture them alive. A depopulated hive is easier to requeen. The captured bees can be released in a remote area although I hear Africanized bees stimulate European bees to become hot. However, the Africans will be dead within a few weeks and the hives should get back to being docile. >>Is this possible or are we being paranoid? You are not being paranoid. And I glad you'd suited up before going to these hives! >>our feral hive/queen have adapted to our Langstroth hives very well and are building magnificent comb I am a big proponent of collecting and breeding feral stock in non- AHB areas. You will find much improved ability to overwinter well and your production should not take a second seat. There may be an increased tendency in the ferals to swarm (after a quick spring build- up) but it may not differ from 'standard' bees that build up well in the spring. Strong, crowded hives swarm. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 10:18:50 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Almer's Apiary Subject: Re: Saga of the Robber Bees In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is almost always a problem with a hive that causes robbers to attack (Or a mistake by the beekeeper). Once started, robbing is difficult to stop and at this advanced stage (time wise), you have likely pretty much lost the colony and almost for sure their stores. The very first thing to do is remove any feeders. I have had success at stopping robbers and saving colonies IF CAUGHT IN TIME. First stop up all non standard entrances (duct tape works). If you have inner covers with vent holes either cover them or place a menthol bag over them (this works best). Take a charged fume board and rest the narrow end on the bottom board at the hive entrance, out about mid way to all the way. Face the activated side toward the hive. Prop a support (I use a steel "T" post) to hold the other end of the fume board against the hive front. What you will have done is force the robbers to go between the fume board and the hive to gain entrance. After dark, remove the fume board and check really early next morning or better, take the hive away from that location and go in and see what is wrong. If you open the hive in place, you will almost always restart or accelerate the robbing if there is anything left for them to rob. I live in north Alabama. From now until fall, I have better luck combining the hive with a known good one BUT NOT UNTIL you have stopped the robbing and/or moved the hive out of that robbing range. If they have harvestable honey, take it but do it quickly. DO NOT put it on other hives for them to maintain until you are ready for it. That will almost always cause a robbing problem with the second hive. Stopping robbing is more of an adventure than a cure. Typically that hive will cost you more in time and labor than the colony is worth. On a small scale (not a commercial beekeeper) it can an interesting challenge for a hobbyist to take on. Commercial beekeepers often look at robbing as a culling process. Good Luck. Bob Fanning Huntsville, AL USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 16:54:12 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Marron Subject: Hot bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't think it's fair to call these "Buckfast" bees. They may have been, in the queens line but the drones that mated them were not. If you can keep them without danger to others you can requeen them. (I did) It involved splitting the hive into about 5 nucs and finding the queen and killing her. Then recombine and requeen. It will take 6 weeks for all those mean bees to die. I took a super of brood, swept all the bees off it, and put it back on top of the hive over a queen excluder. When I walked away with this split and a new queen. they were never mean. No one can tell me why. (Can you imagine the bees I had in the air doing this?) Killing the drone brood is an excellent idea. So is vacuuming the foragers. I'd kill them, and work with the younger bees. If you are near others or animals, I'd give them the soapy water treatment and reclaim my apiary. You'll find they make a lot of brood. Don't let them swarm. Dick Marron -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 17:09:55 -0500 Reply-To: scot.mcpherson@gmail.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Scot Mc Pherson Organization: The Mc Pherson Family Honey Farms Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: <20060713.115937.17501.325076@webmail28.nyc.untd.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It amazes me how the Weavers continuously dodge the Africanized County issue. How is it that their county is the only african free country in the entire region, AND the bees they sell are very very hot. Seems to me like grease...rodney dangerfeild, back to school style.... -- Scot McPherson The McPherson Family Honey Farms Davenport, Iowa USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 16:34:48 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Dave and Kristi: I cannot imagine bees like this. Being me I would simply get rid of them and put them down.......This is not good beekeeping, nor something to be shipped around. Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 17:40:52 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Grant Gillard Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I would requeen. My early experience with hot bees (mostly feral swarms) was to simply find and kill off the swarm queen, then let the colony make a supersedure/emergency queen cell, or cells. Since these were swarms, I figured I had an old queen of unverifiable age and she would eventually need replacing anyway. I simply squished her. Fortunately, when I grew tired of their "attitude," the colony was not overly crowded. The queen, unmarked, was fairly easy to find. I let them raise a new queen as it was usually too late in the season to justify the expense of a single queen from a reputable breeder. The shipping cost is a killer, and the likelihood of any honey crop was, well, unlikely. I found, in these situations, that the resulting queen that eventually took over the colony produced docile bees, but then they mated with my local drones, mostly Italians and Carnolians. The next year they did quite well. It is a common thought that the drones contribute the genetics that result in the "attitude" of the hive. I wonder about the chances, in your situation, of a new virgin queen mating with the drones of this hot hive if you simply killed off the old queen. Would you not get another queen that produced another generation of hot bees? Unfortunately, it takes about six weeks to really see any change. As this is now mid-July, you'd not know if you were successful until next year. And, of course, you, in your situation, still have to find the old queen. Here are my two suggestions. If you move all the brood boxes and hive bodies to a new location about ten feet away, and set up a "dummy" hive in the old location, LOTS of bees will head back to the dummy hive on the original location making it easier to find the old queen in the brood boxes at the new location. Once found, you can kill her and reunite the hive bodies back on the old hive stand and requeen (although my best luck in introducing queens takes place in smaller nucs). Or order a dozen new queens and start tearing apart the hot hive making up a bunch of smaller nucs. Eventually, you'll find the old queen in the process. But this late in the season, I wonder if you can find queens still for sale. I'm sorry for your experience. I have had nothing but great success from B. Weaver. Their queens have always been good and I've ordered several queens from different lines that they offer. Best of luck to you, Grant Jackson, MO "A trying time is no time to quit trying." --------------------------------- How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger’s low PC-to-Phone call rates. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2006 23:36:25 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Barry Thompson Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Comments: cc: scot.mcpherson@GMAIL.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Before one becomes too strident in one's comments about fellow beekeepers, may I remind one and all that there are two, separate and distinct, Weaver operations in Texas: B. Weaver and R. Weaver. From what I've seen on the BEE-L thusfar, we know that there are problem bees at a site in Maryland. The subject queen may or may not be one shipped in a package by a supplier. As yet, the "Weaver" source is not identified. Has the beekeeper contacted the supplier? The bees in question indeed do sound aggressive, but is the assumption being made that this may result from the presence of "africanized honey bee" genes? Is there any scientific basis for such an assumption? Allegations and personal opinions should not substitute for fact-finding, and "painting with a broad brush" can be both unfair and risky. Barry Thompson Thompson Apiaries, LLC North Potomac, MD Past President Maryland State Beekeepers EAS Director, Master Beekeepers -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 11:26:02 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Robin Dartington Subject: Re: Saga of the Robber Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As Bob has said, once robbers take honey back to their hive, more and more robbers will come. You may not have the option to move the hive out of range. What about simply trapping the robbers? A box in front of the hive, baited with a comb, with a bees escape valve fitted in the entrance. Shut the hive itself when all its bees are back - and feed if the queen is still alive as its stores will have gone. A screen board on the extra box would let you kill the trapped robbers each evening by sprinkling in water with detergent, with no robber escaping. Once honey stops going back, so will recruitment of new robbers. Robin -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:52:21 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>...at the new location. Once found, you can kill her and reunite the hive bodies back on the old hive stand and requeen This is a good approach. I would actually requeen the depopulated hive at the new location before moving it back. >>But this late in the season, I wonder if you can find queens still for sale. You can find/buy queens well into October. I am raising some right now. :) >>I have had nothing but great success from B. Weaver. Not to dispute your experience but I've heard from several people all over the US that they had hot hives with queens from B. Weaver. When I saw B. Weaver advertise Australian bees for sale I thought this was how they were addressing being in Africanized territory. I can't imagine Texas costs for raising bees/queens as being that much higher than Australian costs plus transportation over the Pacific. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 07:40:42 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mike Stoops Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit "Lehr, Carl" wrote: This spring, we got 3 Buckfast packages from the Weavers. ...... However, they have become so hot that they are now "untouchable" and I mean, untouchable in full beekeeping coveralls wearing a Sheriff's bee veil and leather gloves. Dave and Kristi Lehr Westminster, Maryland Just checked the location of Weaver's location, north-northwest of Houston. I would make a wild guess and say that you have indeed gotton some queens that are highly Africanized. First, I would write, or e-mail, the Weaver company from whom you got your queens and explain the situation. First, they might rectify the queen situation by sending you new queens. Seondly, they need to have feedback of this sort so that they know that they are having problems with their queen mating process. If they get enough feedback from their customers concerning this problem, they know that they are going to have to change their queen mating procedures. On a sidenote, have any other customers of Weaver queens found their new queens to produce highly volitile hives? Do note that there are two Weaver companies producing queens and there needs to be a clarification concerning which company, or both, which are involved with the production of these very hot bees. Mike in LA --------------------------------- Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 09:20:21 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Saga of the Robber Bees In-Reply-To: <003101c6a730$0397b2e0$a348fea9@DellDesk> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Simple question: Weak hive getting robbed by strong hives. Is it worth the work to save it? Why? Aren't weaker ones lessor for health? Production?.....or other reason you want to save it? In the feral they just go.....so why not simply just replace it later from a split from a strong colony? respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 12:28:39 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Eric_Brown?= Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 23:36:25 EDT, Barry Thompson wrote: >Is there any scientific basis for such an assumption? If you're asking what science would have to say about the Lehrs' situation, you've asked a valid question. On the other hand, if you're implying that "science" has the authority to dispatch all other types of evidence, then I want to step in and voice my support for other non-scientific voices on this list, particularly information like the Lehrs shared. I would hate to intimidate voices from the field in deference to the gods of science. Let's not ignore all the many reasons for dealing cautiously with so- called "scientific" "fact-finding," either. I want to hear from "science," too, but I've learned a lot more from voices in the field than from voices in academia. So, in summary, I say let science speak, but let everyone else speak freely, too. As for the hot bees, I'd seriously consider killing them. I think others on the list have done a good job of describing the circumstances by which they might be requeened, but I suspect establishing all those circumstances may not be feasible or worth the effort. Eric As far as the laws of mathematics refer to reality, they are not certain, and as far as they are certain, they do not refer to reality. -- Albert Einstein -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 17:21:55 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mike, >>Seondly, they need to have feedback of this sort so that they know that they are having problems with their queen mating process. I'd think for an outfit that runs thousands of colonies, they have come across the same behavior many times... I don't think I'd want replacement queens, free or otherwise, from the same source. >>they will know that they are going to have to change their queen mating procedures. You have little control over open mating in Africanized territory. Drone colonies would have to come from a non-Africanized area and the feral Africans would still have a mating advantage based on the current knowledge. AI would be way too expensive. The semen source would have to be outside of the Africanized territory as well. Waldemar -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 12:38:35 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mike Stoops Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: <20060714.102213.27416.336923@webmail34.nyc.untd.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit "waldig@netzero.com" wrote:I'd think for an outfit that runs thousands of colonies, they have come across the same behavior many times... I don't think I'd want replacement queens, free or otherwise, from the same source. I think you are right. But, ..... Their business is to sell queens and packages. I don't think they want to advertise that their operations have been infiltrated by Africanized bees. So.... The only alternative for customers and possible future customers is to announce to the beekeeping world at large that they have gotten very bad queens from this source. Not saying that the queens they produce are bad but that the particular queens they received from that particular source were bad. You have little control over open mating in Africanized territory. Drone colonies would have to come from a non-Africanized area and the feral Africans would still have a mating advantage based on the current knowledge. AI would be way too expensive. The semen source would have to be outside of the Africanized territory as well. Waldemar The only alternative I see is for these companies to establish a bee free zone of about ten miles radius around their mating yards, to ensure that any colonies within this area are hives containing queens whose drones they would desire to mate with their virgin queens. We had one queen breeder here in Alabama who would go around each spring, very early, and requeen the hives being kept in this area with queens which he raised as drone producers. I'm sure that he didn't get all of the colonies in this area requeened, but he got a preponderance done so and the queens and packages he produced were quality products. It helped that most of the feral colonies had been decimated by the mites. When queen and package producers are in known AFB infested areas, a procedure of eradication will have to occur. Using baits they will have to find all the feral colonies and unknown colonies and either destroy the colonies (feral) or requeen with marked and clipped queens they desire to use for drone production. Also, they will have to clean up the genetics in their own apiaries. All of this is a costly and time consuming process but it is the only way I see for them to continue in business. Mike in LA --------------------------------- Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 16:22:08 -0500 Reply-To: scot.mcpherson@gmail.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Scot Mc Pherson Organization: The Mc Pherson Family Honey Farms Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: <20060714193835.50418.qmail@web53408.mail.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >>> It helped that most of the feral colonies had been decimated by the mites. <<< Something which may not have occurred to you...AHB handle mites quite well. When the varroa destroyed most of the feral populations, it simply strengthened the AHB dominance. It didn't help at all, but made things worse. -- Scot McPherson The McPherson Family Honey Farms Davenport, Iowa USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 18:50:17 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 16:22:08 -0500, Scot Mc Pherson wrote: >Something which may not have occurred to you...AHB handle mites quite >well. I think the first move should have been to contact the shipper and see if they would remedy the situation. It would certainly be in their interest not to have their name smeared all over the internet. Seocondly, if you really think you have been shipped African bees, you should report them to the local authorities. Have the bees analyzed because in many states, it is against the law to ship African bees in. If the bees ARE found to be AHB, the shipper is at fault, and they should compensate you. If not, it's not fair to suggest that they are. Finally, there is no real proof that African bees will handle mites better in areas outside the tropics. You see, the effect may have more to do with tropical climate than the bees themselves, so if you get them up into the northern states, they actually may do poorly. pb -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 18:29:06 -0500 Reply-To: rgarrett@evansville.net Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Richard E. Garrett" Subject: Extremely Hot Bees I bought All-Star queens from B-Weaver last spring (05). They were excellent producers, but were so hostile that I had to get rid of them this spring. We had a very mild winter, and they came through in great shape. Richard -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 17:17:59 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Grant Gillard Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: <20060714.065247.14831.334614@webmail38.nyc.untd.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit "Not to dispute your experience but I've heard from several people all over the US that they had hot hives with queens from B. Weaver." Response: And it may just be my "luck of the draw," or luck of the "drone" I don't order enough queens to be statistically significant as to whether or not the queens from Texas are hot or not. I guess I've just been lucky, which is not to dispute anyone else's experience. Grant Jackson, MO --------------------------------- Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 19:04:14 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, > However, they have become so hot that they are now "untouchable" and I mean, untouchable in full beekeeping coveralls wearing a Sheriff's bee veil and leather gloves. I have had many discussions with queen producers and commercial beekeepers raising queens in Texas. Normally if a pure EU queen open mates with AHB drones (which happens more than you would think) the workers are somewhat hot but workable Tens of thousands of queens are raised and open mated by commercial beekeepers in the Carthage and Jasper areas of Texas every spring. Raised from *cells* bought from other commercial beekeepers selling cells AND from commercial queen producers. Has been going on ever since beekeeping started (and AHB arrived). The problem of hot bees (in my opinion) such as wrote about here is caused by AHB genetics in the queen line but could be simply from an open mating. Only a lab could say for sure. In defense of the Weaver's they have always protected their queen lines (I have been told) and keep marked numbered breeder queens. Our bee labs have said for over ten years that if open mated in Texas you run a chance of AHB genetics. The same will apply to both Florida and Southern California before long (if not already). My advice in this situation spoke of would be to kill the hives and inform the Texas queen producer of the problem. The current map of AHB spread has changed faster than one can imagine over the last three years. We need U.S. queen and package producers to survive. Think of their plight. If they can keep the AHB genetics out of their queen lines then I think they can stay in business. Instead of choosing their best queens from their own stock the future lies in using only II breeder queens ( numbered)from a reliable source and try to saturate desirable drones in mating yards. A few AHB matings will happen and those queens will be shipped. Possibly the queen producer could refund the money or ship another package BUT the first hot package should be depopulated in my opinion. Commercial beekeepers all over the U.S. are dealing with "hot bees". If you are going to keep bees and bring packages & queens into your yards from areas of known AHb infestation then you need to be prepared to deal with the "hot hive" from time to time. Only a serious problem in my opinion when you do not take the steps to eliminate the problem. The beekeeping world in the U.S. is changing and we must adapt. Even I dream of the way beekeeping in the U.S. was when I started but not coming back. We must adapt to the new problems. I can't end with out saying: For the future of beekeeping in the U.S. please be part of the solution and not part of the problem. Be a responsible beekeeper! Get rid of those "hot" genetics and keep foulbrood out of your hives! Sincerely, Bob Harrison -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 21:14:49 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Judi_Hindman?= Subject: recipe for hand cream using beeswax Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Can someone give me a recipe for a creamy hand cream using beeswax? I want to use the cappings from our early honey crop. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 21:41:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Marron Subject: Hot Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit "If you are going to keep bees and bring packages & queens into your yards from areas of known AHb infestation then you need to be prepared to deal with the "hot hive" from time to time." That's the bottom line. I'm afraid this may be the tip of the iceberg and it will be more than "time to time." Other lists talk about more hot hives. I wrote about mine (last years) in ABJ of a few months ago. Hot bees happen; you kill them. Let's get used to it. I never mentioned the breeder or the state and never asked for a refund or consideration. What good would another queen be when the colony is weeks behind and will never catch up? I don't think mentioning names is "smearing." Every 'keeper that gets a hot hive is not experienced and could be in some danger if not cautious. Neighbors and animals could be caught unawares. This list is making people aware. The trouble is that too few people read it, in the big picture. My hot bees surprised me. No one is shipping AHB bees. They are shipping queens with AHB semen in them. It's a little hard to inspect. It's a month or six weeks until that semen is expressed in a bee that is foraging and defensive. Many folks including the club I belong to are working at raising queens in the north. I can't quote exactly but Jerry Hayes said something like: "The beekeepers will handle this but it's a problem for the public." We need to eradicate them when they happen and get on with it. We also need to get ahead of the curve in educating the public. If a tabloid reporter were reading this thread he might see a chance for a sensational story. It's really just a chapter in a story. Dick Marron -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 22:44:40 -0400 Reply-To: "Keith B. Forsyth" Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Organization: Keith B. Forsyth Subject: Re: [WL] [BEE-L] Bees in grave danger MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This article is now avaiable online. http://www.nrdc.org/onearth/06sum/default.asp ----- Original Message ----- From: "Adrian M. Wenner" To: Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:20 PM Subject: [WL] [BEE-L] Bees in grave danger > Now, another extensive article of potential interest to beekeeprs > has appeared (THE VANISHING, by Sharon Levy). That 8-page article > appeared in the summer 2006 issue of ONEARTH (volume 28, number 2), a > publication of THE NATURAL RESOURCES DEFENSE COUNCIL (NRDC, for short). > The article features Jeff Anderson and his operation and dwells at > length on all the troubles faced by present-day beekeepers. Jeff was > one of the principals of the Minnesota suit about the use of Sevin. > -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 21:49:40 -0500 Reply-To: scot.mcpherson@gmail.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Scot Mc Pherson Organization: The Mc Pherson Family Honey Farms Subject: Re: An Extremely Hot Buckfast Bee Dilemma In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >>> Finally, there is no real proof that African bees will handle mites better in areas outside the tropics. You see, the effect may have more to do with tropical climate than the bees themselves, so if you get them up into the northern states, they actually may do poorly. <<< What a way to bend a message.....I trust everyone that read my message didn't get the same suggestion... The message was related to how a wiping out of ferals was a negative, because since AHB handle varroa well, they instantly become the dominant strain within that area. The original poster suggested it as a bad thing, and that LINE you quoted far out of context pointed out the negative aspect of that scenario to the breeding situation. -- Scot McPherson The McPherson Family Honey Farms Davenport, Iowa USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info ---