From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 10:29:13 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-90.4 required=2.4 tests=AWL,MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR, SPF_HELO_PASS,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Delivered-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id 6AAD84908C for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:53 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SF1MMK014128 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:53 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:24:50 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0608D" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Message-ID: Content-Length: 71945 Lines: 1634 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 22:27:14 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Jaross Subject: Re: Sticky board "stickum" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In light of all the variations suggested, is Canola Oil not effective at trapping varroa at all? Thanks, Michael NW WA USA -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 07:08:46 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: Buckfast, Minnesota Hygienic for Chalkbrood. In-Reply-To: <20060821230030.11628.qmail@web53409.mail.yahoo.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-539834BB I don't know how others feel, but... I didn't find that Buckfast bees...Texas strain...was very resistant to Chalk. I requeened most of my operation with Texas Buckfast back in the late 80's/early 90's. This was to get some Tracheal mite resistance. Well, that worked for Tracheal, but the level of Chalk exploded. I then requeened Chalky colonies with Hygienic Carniolans, a few years later. While they cleaned up the mummies, it appeared to me from the brood pattern that while I couldn't find mummies, the colonies were still losing brood to Chalk. That's when I started raising my own stock from colonies that showed no evidence of Chalk. Now, I only find Chalkbrood rarely. I raised queens from a Minnesota Hygienic breeder in '04. Big fat yellow queens...egg laying machines!! Unfortunately, they winter poorly. Marla told me that they were never selected for Tracheal resistance, so I wonder if that is the problem with their inability to winter in my climate. They are Italian stock, designed to be used by the migratory beekeepers who winter in Texas. Probably a great bee for them...but not for me, here in the North. I wouldn't use either of these stocks, but would buy a hygienic Carniolan strain. Or perhaps a Russian queen from Francois Petit in Ontario, Canada. They are selected for being hygienic. You can find him at: http://www.igs.net/~pilgrimventures/The_Russian_Bee_Breeding_Program.htm good luck Mike -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.3/423 - Release Date: 8/18/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 08:26:21 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: George Williams Subject: Re: White Bread for Chalkbrood. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I found chalkbrood in one of my hives about 15 years ago and a older and wiser mentor advised me to put white bread under the brood. I did it and the problem did disappear. Is there any scientific basis for this "phenomenon" or was it mother nature? I suspect now the bees just re-queened. Unfortunately, I didn't mark queens then,(was afraid I would injure them). George Williams Hobbyist in Florida -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 14:39:12 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Buckfast, Minnesota Hygienic for Chalkbrood. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>I didn't find that Buckfast bees...Texas strain...was very resistant to Chalk. Forgive my bias but I won't order a queen from Texas, or some of the other southern states, due to the presence of AHB there. Especially, since this queen is needed for a nature center that gets many visitors. >>I wouldn't use either of these stocks, but would buy a hygienic Carniolan strain. Can you recommend a source? Has anyone used NWCs from Strachan and found them to clean up chalkbrood? >>Or perhaps a Russian queen from Francois Petit in Ontario, Canada. They are selected for being hygienic. You can find him at: http://www.igs.net/~pilgrimventures/The_Russian_Bee_Breeding_Program.h tm I'll check them out. I'll also check with Purvis Brothers about their bees' ability to clean up chalkbrood. Waldemar -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 13:46:05 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Brian Fredericksen Subject: Re: Buckfast, Minnesota Hygienic for Chalkbrood. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I have used Strachan NWC queens for 10 years. They winter very well and are good honey producers. Plenty of chalkbrood though the last 2 years, in fact its my biggest problem since I moved to oxalic acid and a shake and bake strategy for foulbrood control (shake into new equipment by June 1st and burn the old equipment). When you talk to them you never come away with a feeling that they are selecting for anything other then egg laying. I'm making different plans for my future queen needs. They have had 2 tough years of spring weather and the owners husband also passed away in 2004. But times change and so do my needs. I also agree with Mike Palmer that the Mn hygenic queen does not winter well at least here in MN. That statement though does not mean they are not an excellent strain of honeybee for honey production, mite, chalkbrood or foulbrood control. I am hearing increasingly more reports though of hot MN hygenic queens mated in Texas and other southern locations so buyer beware of queen breeder locations that are AHB infested. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 16:47:12 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?UTF-8?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Buckfast, Minnesota Hygienic for Chalkbrood. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Quote: shake and bake strategy for foulbrood control (shake into new equipment by June 1st and burn the old equipment). Please elaborate. Is this done to all hives every year, or just sick ones? pb -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 06:14:37 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Cara &Tom Patterson Subject: Re: Buckfast, Minnesota Hygienic for Chalkbrood. In-Reply-To: <20060822030003.37896.qmail@web31601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit in addition to Weavers and Davies Apiaries, http://eppserver.ag.utk.edu/Bees/test/packageproducer.html#_Buckfast does list: Phil Kurkoski Apiaries, 2472 Hidden Valley Lane, Stillwater, MN 55082, Phone (651) 439-8051 as a Buckfast producer. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 17:54:15 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Buckfast, Minnesota Hygienic for Chalkbrood. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Cara or(?) Tom Patterson wrote: ... http://eppserver.ag.utk.edu/Bees/test/packageproducer.html#_Buckfast does list: .... =20 I remind the webmaster of the aforementioned site that: True Buckfasts require regular importation of semen from, and royalties = paid to the Buckfast Abbey in England. Before ordering "Buckfast = Queens" from ANY breeder, call an inquire how true to line are the = queens they are labeling Buckfast. =20 Aaron Morris - thinking bridge in Brooklyn for sale! -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 15:42:44 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mike Stoops Subject: Re: Queen and Package Purchases In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Thread was Buckfast, Minnesota Hygienic for Chalkbrood. Brian Fredericksen wrote:I am hearing increasingly more reports though of hot MN hygenic queens mated in Texas and other southern locations so buyer beware of queen breeder locations that are AHB infested. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- I agree with Brian. Purchasers of queens and packages need to really bee aware of the producer's location and, I hate to say this, shy away from those who open mate in areas which have become invaded by the Africanized bee. If you get instrumentally inseminated queens then you can pretty well control the genetics, but open mating in an Africanized area. Don't think so. Mike in LA (Lower Alabama and not yet infiltrated by AHB) --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 20:48:29 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: Buckfast, Minnesota Hygienic for Chalkbrood. In-Reply-To: <20060822.073936.760.109642@webmail60.nyc.untd.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-1B2B3309 > a hygienic >Carniolan strain. > >Can you recommend a source? I've used Heitkam Carniolans before. Was amazed at how fast they clean out Chalkbrood mummies. Mike -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.3/423 - Release Date: 8/18/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 12:05:14 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: C Hooper Subject: Utah Conference to Focus on Medicinal Uses of Bee Products MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE CONTACT: Frederique Keller, (631) 351-3521, E-Mail: Kellerf@optonline.net Utah Conference to Focus on Medicinal Uses of Bee Products Interest in ‘apitherapy’ as an alternative treatment growing worldwide (AUGUST 23, 2006) – From September 21-24, 2006, those interested in learning more about the medicinal use of honey bee products will gather in Salt Lake City for the Charles Mraz Apitherapy Course & Conference (CMACC). The four-day event is sponsored by the American Apitherapy Society (AAS), a nonprofit membership organization established for the purpose of advancing the investigation of apitherapy, and has in past years attracted participants from around North America and the world. Utah is known as “the Beehive State” and the state insect is the honey bee. (AAS President Dr. Andrew Kochan was recently interviewed on CBS Sunday Morning. SEE: http://apitherapy.blogspot.com/2006/08/american-apitherapy-society-president.html) This year, for the first time ever, AAS is offering the option of attending either the introductory apitherapy training from Thursday evening through Saturday morning, or an advanced conference from Saturday afternoon through Sunday afternoon that covers trends in apitherapy around the world. Participants may also opt to attend both. Apitherapy is the use of bee hive products such as bee venom, bee-collected pollen, royal jelly, propolis, beeswax, and honey to maintain good health and in the treatment of a variety of medical conditions. Propolis, known as nature's antibiotic, is a resinous substance collected by bees from plants and trees and is used to coat the inside of the bee hive and the honeycomb cells with an antiseptic layer. Royal jelly, heralded for its rejuvenating properties, is a substance produced by young worker bees and fed to queens. Hive products have been used medicinally for thousands of years in folk medicine and are now gaining popularity worldwide as medical research validates their effectiveness. Bee venom has historically been used to treat arthritis and rheumatoid conditions and honey has been called "the original medicine." Contemporary research documents the benefits of hive products in supporting overall health and vitality, as well as confirms their therapeutic benefits in addressing a wide range of conditions that include multiple sclerosis, skin problems, infections, and cardiovascular concerns, among numerous other conditions. CMACC will feature workshops on the properties and medicinal use of all the hive products, as well as on topics such as “Preparations and Indications of Propolis,” “Cleansing & Detox, Weight Management,” “Practical Apipuncture,” and “Recent Advances in Apitherapy.” Other lectures will focus on legal issues related to apitherapy, veterinary apitherapy and on actual case studies. Course participants will be able to take an examination and receive a certificate of knowledge. AAS makes no claims about the safety or efficacy of honey bee products and does not endorse any specific type of apitherapy. Charles Mraz, who died in 1999 at the age of 94, is recognized as one of the American pioneers of the use of bee venom to treat diseases. In 1994, he published "Health and the Honey Bee," a history of his decades-long experience with that treatment. For more information about the Charles Mraz Apitherapy Course & Conference, go to: http://www.apitherapy.org For more information on apitherapy, go to: www.apitherapy.com and www.apitherapynews.com NOTE: Beginning October 12, 2006, the 1st International Forum on Apitherapy will be held in Athens, Greece. SEE: http://apitherapy.blogspot.com/2006/08/greece-to-host-1st-international-forum.html The 1st International Conference on the Medicinal Use of Honey will be held August 26-28, in Malaysia. http://apitherapy.blogspot.com/2005/12/malaysian-conference-on-medicinal-use.html - END – CONTACT: American Apitherapy Society, Inc., 5535 Balboa Blvd., Suite 225, Encino, CA 91316 - P: 818.501.0446 - F: 818.995.9334 - E: info@apitherapy.org -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 20:32:48 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Queen bee feces removal. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Just out of curiosity - does anyone know how frequently does a queen bee defecate and how do the workers retrieve and remove queen bee feces? Thanks! Waldemar Long Island, NY PS. Praying for rain so that golden rod can secrete well for the honey bees... :) -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 10:42:25 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Bill_Lord?= Subject: polariscope plans and film Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I am looking for a set of plans to build a polariscope as well as a supplier for polarizing film. Can anyone help? thanks, Bill Lord -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 12:50:43 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dick Allen Subject: Re: polariscope plans and film Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit ‘American Bee Journal’ Spetember 2001, page 648 has a dimmensioned drawing of a polariscope. The dimmensions aren’t real critical. It’s a box roughly 7 inches on each side with a 75 watt light bulb inside. At the front of the box is 6 inch square sheet of polarizing film. A second sheet of film with its polarizing plane oriented 90º perpendicular is placed about 6 inches in front of the other sheet. ‘The Hive and the Honey Bee’, page 909, also shows a polariscope. Check with photographic suppliers for the polarizing film. I used this company back in 2001 since I couldn’t find any one locally that carried it: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ At the time they carried a ROSCO #7300 19x20 inch polarizing filter sheet. You only need two 6- inch square pieces though, so you might check to see how many others are interested in making polariscopes. Regards, Dick Allen -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 14:03:38 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Brian Gallagher Subject: Re: polariscope plans and film In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For the film try Edmund Scientific at: http://scientificsonline.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_3038396 Their 3037349 7" x 9" Gray Film Polarizer, Thickness 0.01" $6.95 looks like a good price. You need 2 sheets. Several years ago I bought plastic polarized sheets through a local photo shop and paid much more than this. Brian Gallagher -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 15:18:10 -0400 Reply-To: "Keith B. Forsyth" Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Organization: Keith B. Forsyth Subject: Re: [WL] [BEE-L] polariscope plans and film MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >From Honey Shows by Roger A. and Mary Lou Morse (1996 Wicwas Press) gives the following reference for the use of "polaroid J film". "The original paper, cited below, advises the use of "polarized filter stock number S38,495 or gray stock number S38,493" from Edmund Scientific, 101 E. Glouster Pike, Barrington, NJ 08007 (White, J.W. Jr. and J. Maher. 1951. Detection of incipient granulation in extracted honey. American Bee Journal 91:376-377. The information was reprinted in Tew, J.E. 1983. Beekeeping Technology. Gleanings in Bee Culture 11:577)" -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 09:00:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Japanese Knotweed Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Greetings Japanese knotweed (also known as bamboo) has really taken hold in my neighborhood. Evidently some honey customers are asking for it by name. I wonder how many people are extracting and selling this honey? How widespread is this honey plant? Peter from Ithaca -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 09:35:42 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Japanese Knotweed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Polygonum cuspidatum (Japanese Knotweed) is HUGELY invasive. http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/wq/plants/weeds/aqua015.html For those who don't know, Peter Borst and I both live in New York State = although something like 200 miles apart. Along Rt88 near the Binghamton = Exit, one can find stands of Japanese Knotweed (we called it Japanese = Bamboo when we were kids) growing along the river for about 3 exits (15 = miles?). It's everywhere! It is just starting to come into bloom and = produces a dark honey resembling buckwheat in color and somewhat in = flavor. In is a good honey for those who don't mind dark honey. Stands = of knotweed can yield copious harvests! This is a fact recognized by = label makers who print add-on, varietals labels, proclaiming "I love = Japanese Knotweed Honey!" >From a beekeeper's perspective Knotweed is a great plant vs. an unwanted = invader. It ranks up there with purple loosestrife, gold star thistle = and knapweed! And yes, it is an escaped, exotic invasive. Control is = nearly impossible. If one is serious about eradicating the plant, the = only resort is herbicides, and it usually takes multiple applications. = I am currently battling a stand that has grown in my yard since I was a = kid. I have left it alone for years, but have finally succumbed to = neighborly pressure to eradicate the stand that is invading across = property boundaries. My local municipality refused the cuttings at the = compost bins because it is so invasive (although the invasion comes from = the rhizome root stock, not the stems). My municipality is not known = for their brain trust. GREAT honey plant. Obnoxious and highly successful invader. If it's in = your area, have honey supers at the ready! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 10:25:45 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Russ Dean Subject: Re: Japanese Knotweed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In some parts of West Virginia it grows out of control. Its been classified as a weed. It get started it's almost impossible to stop. Don't plant any yourself. Find it growing somewhere and plant your bee hives near it. Russ -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 12:03:21 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lloyd Spear Subject: White bread for chalkbrood MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Commercial beekeepers and queen breeders swear by banana peels on the tops of the frames. I've heard of the ingredient that is supposed to be attacking the fungus, but I forget what it is. For myself, I just switch queen breeders. A good queen seems to keep it under control so much it is non-existent or barely visible. Lloyd -- Lloyd Spear Owner Ross Rounds, Inc. Manufacture of equipment for round comb honey sections, Sundance Pollen Traps, and producer of Sundance custom labels. Contact your dealer or www.RossRounds.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 12:48:31 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Randy_Oliver?= Subject: Does anyone have a simple way of mixing Tylon for treatment of AFB. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Morris, I just sent this email to Jerry Hayes: Hi Jerry In your Sept Classroom you state that Tylan comes in a 100 gram bottle. This is not correct--it comes in a bottle with "Equivalent to 100 g tylosin base." I have spoken with the manufacturer, and they do not standardize the weight of the excipients, as is done with, say, Terramycin Soluble Powder. If you consult the manufacturer's sheet sold with the product, you'll see that the entire contents of the bottle should mix with 22 lbs of powdered sugar. In order to dose Tylan properly, one must weigh the contents of the entire bottle, and divide that amount by the convenient unit of, say, 11 (I put those 11th portions in ziplock bags). Each 11th portion mixes with 2 pounds of powdered sugar (an off-the-shelf unit). The proper per-colony dose is then 1/4 cup. Keep up the great column, Randy Oliver -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 20:22:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Francis_Fedrizzi?= Subject: Diatomaceous Earth for Small Hive Beetle Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I've read that beekeepers are experimenting with Diatomaceous Earth to control small hive beetle. Does anyone know what the protocol for treatment is? -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 20:55:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: White bread for chalkbrood In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-6CBB6714 > A good queen seems to keep it >under control so much it is non-existent or barely visible. I make nucs in mid-summer, from weak colonies...sacrificing them and making up nucs with their brood and bees. Sometimes the colony sacrificed has Chalk Brood. The nucs are started pretty weak...1.5 frames of bees, and enough bees to cover the brood. Initially, the nuc loses strength before the new queen is laying well, and her bees are hatching well. One batch of 22 nucs in particular, made up about July 21st, was severely compromised by Chalk. Most of the brood was dead, and things sure did look grim about August 6th, when I removed the queen cages and checked for a laying queen. I went back again today. This is the time I make my final inspection of this summer's nucs. I adjust the strong and weak ones...by adding or subtracting frames of brood. Well, the Chalky nucs have surprised me. They have 3 frames of brood at this point. Hardly a mummy could I find. While the brood patterns haven't fully recovered yet, and the populations are smaller than I like, the mummies are gone. In fact, the bees are dismembering and removing brood before there are mummies, and while the pupae are still white and soft. Amazing what hygienic bees will do...even when only weak nucs. Mike -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 8/25/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 22:10:12 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?UTF-8?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Tylan -AFB Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi It should be mentioned that if you don't have (or are exposed to) *terramycin resistant foulbrood* you don't need (nor should you use) Tylan. pb -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 05:21:34 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: Tylan -AFB MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 27/08/2006 03:42:32 GMT Standard Time, peterlborst@GMAIL.COM writes: It should be mentioned that if you don't have (or are exposed to) *terramycin resistant foulbrood* you don't need (nor should you use) Tylan. Peter, Why? If you treat for AFB rather than burn wouldn't it be a good idea to rotate treatments to delay resistance? Chris -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2006 21:02:45 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Mike Stoops Subject: Re: Chalkbrood control In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.0.20060826203659.0152b068@pop.together.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Michael Palmer wrote: Amazing what hygienic bees will do...even when only weak nucs. Mike What strain of bees are you using to provide this hygenic activity? Mike in lower Alabama --------------------------------- Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 09:15:18 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: Tylan -AFB In-Reply-To: <381.98b0fdc.3222be1e@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-13D265 > >Why? Because Tylan is being found in honey, even when used according to directions. Mike -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 8/25/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 09:34:34 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Tylan -AFB Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >Why? If you treat for AFB rather than burn wouldn't it be a good idea to >rotate treatments to delay resistance? I don't think terramycin resistance is very common. I have sent almost 100 samples to USDA and only 3 beekeepers of these had it. If you have AFB you should have it tested for resistance to terramycin. If you had an infected hand, you would no doubt get some generic antibiotic, and if that didn't work you'd try something else. If the regular stuff works, why go on to the other? I think it is very unwise to treat active foulbrood. It is better in the long run to get rid of it. My experience is that the beekeepers that don't have foulbrood (and there are plenty) are the ones that practice zero tolerance. Once you embark on the medication plan, you will always have it. And I think it is through the medication of active cases that resistance develops. If TM is used to prevent active cases, resistance will probably not develop. This is my own opinion and is subject to revision in the light of better information. Peter -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 09:35:35 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: George Williams Subject: Re: Diatomaceous Earth for Small Hive Beetle MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I tried it two years running. I covered the bottom boards with hardware cloth up to about 3" of the access where I placed a 1/2" square across the front edge of the wire to block the bees. The diatomaceous earth caked up pretty fast due to humidity I suppose. Any way there was no evidence that it deterred mites one little bit. Out of some 16 hives 15 simply absconded. The remaining hive was one that was so hot they would "sew up your pants leg". I started over with help from a nearby commercial beekeeper. George Williams FL -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 09:41:00 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: Chalkbrood control In-Reply-To: <20060827040245.10969.qmail@web53401.mail.yahoo.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-13D265 > What strain of bees are you using These queens are raised from an SMRxCarniolan breeder from Glenn apiaries. Another note... Yesterday, I did a workshop for the Vermont Beekeepers Association. Busy day, eh? Checking nucs from 8-11. Workshop from 12-3. Checking nucs from 4-7. The presentation was on honey removal, and Varroa treatments. There are two groups of bees in our demonstration yard, two colonies in each group. All were started from over wintered nucs. The first group are Russians, selected for Varroa tolerance. The local queen breeder hasn't treated in several years. The second group are these SMRxCarniolan. They were made up last summer from varroa infested colonies. They were never treated. As part of the presentation, we scooped out drone brood with a capping scratcher, and counted the number of infested pupae per 100 pupae removed. The Russians were very infested, with one having nearly 100% of the drone pupae infested. Unbelievable how many mature female mites were on each pupae. This colony was showing a high level of PMS. The SMRxCarnis had about a 20% infestation rate, and were showing no PMS. The difference between the two groups was striking. This is all very encouraging to me. My focus in the last few years is getting my bees to the broodless period in November, with a low mite load. This will enable me to treat with Oxalic acid, without colonies crashing beforehand. I know that there were only 4 colonies in this yard, but I'm seeing low mite loads in my production yards, too. Up to a month ago, when I got too busy making nucs and raising queens to be scooping much drone brood, I was seeing 2 - 5 infested pupae per 100. I'm resisting treating my colonies until I use the Oxalic in November. Even if I do have some colonies crash, I have nearly 400 nucs for use as replacements next spring. Mike -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.6/428 - Release Date: 8/25/2006 -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 10:54:39 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?UTF-8?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Tylan -AFB Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Here is a little info on TM resistant AFB from Canada: 1. Destroy all colonies exhibiting symptoms of OTC resistant AFB when they first appear. Removing only diseased comb and medicating will not be effective and will risk the possible spread of resistance. 2. If a significant number of colonies have been infected (>1% of colonies), medicate the remaining healthy colonies with a veterinary prescribed antibiotic, such as Tylan. Tylan should only be applied to colonies located within 2 km of where infected colonies were located. Presently, Tylan can only be prescribed following positive identification of OTC-resistance by the provincial apiarist. http://www.capabees.ca/rafb.htm -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 11:23:15 -0400 Reply-To: janet.katz@earthlink.net Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "Janet A. Katz" Subject: Re: Tylan -AFB In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >I don't think terramycin resistance is very common. I have sent almost 100 samples to USDA and only 3 beekeepers of these had it. If you have AFB you should have it tested for resistance to terramycin. I, too, have sent samples to the USDA (Beltsville) for testing and any that were positive for AFB tested positive for terramycin resistance. I only sent in several samples, so statistically, I would say resistance IS very common. Since then, I have stopped treating and accepted the zero-tolerance approach of burning frames and comb and scorching the hive bodies, bottom boards and inner covers. Since then I have been AFB free. Janet A. Ktz Chester, NJ -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 11:39:53 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: Diatomaceous Earth for Small Hive Beetle MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I've read that beekeepers are experimenting with Diatomaceous Earth to > control small hive beetle. Does anyone know what the protocol for > treatment is? I have used D.E. for a few rare "organic" pest control problems. D.E. is very fine, sharp sand. As the insect passes through it, the partials shred the cuticle between the plates in the exoskeleton. The insect losses fluids and dies of dehydration or infection. If you dust a hive with D.E., you will kill it. The bees will die from 1,000 paper cuts. To isolate the D.E. in some kind of beetle trap, you might as well use a sticky board. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 11:58:39 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: Japanese Knotweed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I wonder how many people are extracting and selling this honey? How > widespread is this honey plant? I am, on a very small scale. I found the bulk of it in my area and divided my hives in two towns to try to cover as much as I can with what I have. If I have any harvest at all, it is already sold. Last year it started blooming in the second week in August, it is just blooming now. A little late. It is raining hard, so I hope that helps. It looks like motor oil and it has a very distinct tang to it. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 13:04:54 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Small scale Queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I've been experimenting with a small scale Queen rearing project. Not = that I need a lot of Queens, or have any real long term plans. I just = have some free time to play with the bees. I found my old cell builder gets hot after several manipulations, to hot = for a yard full of kids and a dog. The cell builder was capable of = raising far more queens than I ever could use and I had to sacrifice = part of my crop to keep it going. I am more interested in a steady = stream of good queens than a river. My new cell builder is a medium box. I loaded it with emerging brood = from several hives. After a few days I cut the queen cells out and = introduced a few grafted cells. I find the cell builder gets better = with practice. My Queen mother is in her own Medium box, divided in half with a queen = excluder. The Queen mother survived a bad Varroa infestation (no = treatments) and still produced a large crop. My Queen bank is a super on one of the hives. Over a queen excluder. Every few days I pull a frame of larva out of the Queen mother hive, = graft from it, and put the remaining larva in the bank. I replace the = frame with clean drawn comb. I graft up to ten larva and put them in the cell builder. When the = surplus larva from the grafting is emerging, I put them in either the = Mother hive, the cell builder or what ever hive can use it. The cell = builder seems to handle ten Queen cells well. There are eight medium = frames of emerging brood, a feeder and a small frame of queen cells. = They have nothing else to do but tend the cells. My whole queen rearing system takes up two medium boxes. Queen mating, = I am still having problems with. The large hives will rob out any nuc = with less than four full medium frames of bees. I have lost most of my = new Queens to my own robbing bees this year. If there is a drone = congregation area in my area, it must be ten feet over my own hives. = I've watch dozens of matings right here. This is not helping my = inbreeding problem. I'm looking at a outyard for mating. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 13:11:12 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Varroa Infestation ( Formerly: ] Chalkbrood control) In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.0.20060827091540.04e7abd8@pop.together.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Michael Palmer writes: The Russians were very infested, with one having nearly 100% of the drone pupae infested. Unbelievable how many mature female mites were on each pupae. This colony was showing a high level of PMS. The SMRxCarnis had about a 20% infestation rate, and were showing no PMS. Reply: Since you give a small window on infestation information here, may I ask: What con-currently was the varroa infestation for worker brood at same time for each? Not that looks can be deceiving, but sometimes things are not as they appear until one sees the whole picture. Could/might/may be that this is good what you are seeing with the Russians and bad for the SMRxCarnis instead as perceived........... So did you look at the varroa count with the workers also? and if so what was the result on that side? Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 03:49:42 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Robert Brenchley Subject: Re: Varroa Infestation ( Formerly: ] Chalkbrood control) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 27/08/06 19:42:09 Pacific Daylight Time, deelusbybeekeeper@YAHOO.COM writes: <> Does anyone know how successful a queen is likely to be after mating with such drones? I'm trying to understand why I've had problems with queen mating this year; it's certainly not the weather, and I don't use persistent chemicals. So how does varroa affect the fertility of drones? Regards, Robert Brenchley -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 03:53:36 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Robert Brenchley Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 27/08/06 19:42:21 Pacific Daylight Time, Latexdog@COX.NET writes: <> This sounds like apiary vicinity mating, where the queen nips out for a few minutes and mates with drones from that apiary. what problems are you having from inbreeding? Regards, Robert Brenchley -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 22:07:28 -0700 Reply-To: port128@yahoo.com Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: John Porter Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-15 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Jim, > The large hives will rob out any nuc > with less than four full medium frames of bees. I have lost most of my > new Queens to my own robbing bees this year. Use robber screens to protect your nucs and smaller hives from the larger ones. They are simple to make. The principle is to have #8 hardware screen covering the entrance area and a way for the resident bees to come and go in an indirect manner. The residents figure out they can't enter/exit directly. Robbers and wasps are so focused on the entrance they can't get to, they never learn how to get in. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 09:45:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?UTF-8?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Varroa Infestation ( Formerly: ] Chalkbrood control) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > Does anyone know how successful a queen is likely to be after mating >with such drones? SEE: Decreased flight performance and sperm production in drones of the honey bee (Apis mellifera) slightly infested by Varroa destructor mites during pupal development http://www.funpecrp.com.br/GMR/year2002/vol3-1/gmr0043_full_text.htm -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 10:11:57 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Walter Zimmermann Subject: Re: Varroa Infestation ( Formerly: ] Chalkbrood control) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To help you possibly understand some of those problems: _http://www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/1141_ (http://www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/1141) _Breeding and Genetics of Honey Bees _ (http://maarec.cas.psu.edu/bkCD/HBBiology/breeding_genetics.htm) Walter Ontario -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 11:47:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Tim Arheit Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing In-Reply-To: <002e01c6c9fa$eb1a1580$6d01a8c0@AdHock> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 01:04 PM 8/27/2006, you wrote: >found my old cell builder gets hot after several manipulations, to hot for a yard full of kids and a dog. The cell builder was capable of raising far more queens than I ever could use and I had to sacrifice part of my crop to keep it going. I am more interested in a steady stream of good queens than a river. You may want to try using the Cloake Board method or using a smaller hive to raise the cells. I've found that when using the cloake board the bees are far less aggressive, probably because they are only truely queenless for a couple days at a time. You can also use a smaller hive to raise queen cells. Even a 5 frame nuc. They key is the number of young workers vs. the number of queen cells you are raising. I think Steve Tabor 'Breeding Super Bees' put it at about 400 workers per queen cell (or 200 young workers). Thus a strong 5 frame nucs can raise 10-15 good queen cells. I've done this several times when I raised fewer queens and it works well, then you can just turn around and use it for a mating nuc after a couple cycles (when the bees get too old). > I find the cell builder gets better with practice. I've noticed this as well. The first graft in a cell builder always seems not to take as well as the following grafts, at least using a queenless cell builder. It doesn't seem to mater if they have been queenless 1 day or longer. I haven't noticed this problem with the Cloake board method. > I have lost most of my new Queens to my own robbing bees this year. What do you use for mating nucs? How big is the entrance? The first year I raised queens I used 5 frame nucs (and 2 way split hive bodies) with standard bottom front entrances (3/8" high the width of the hive). Robbing was a big problem later in the year around August when we tend to have a bit of a dearth. I've since switched to 5 frame nucs that have a single 7/8" diameter hole as an entrance. This has eliminated the problem of robbing completely even in weak hives with 1-2 frames of bees. The 5 frame nucs do have a partially screened bottom so that overheating isn't a problem when moving them or with strong nucs mid summer. Even with a strong over populated 5 frame nuc that needs splitting, the single entrance hole has been adequate. (Plans can be seen here: http://www.honeyrunapiaries.com/beekeeping_plans.phtml ) > If there is a drone congregation area in my area, it must be ten feet over my own hives. I've watch dozens of matings right here. This is not helping my inbreeding problem. I'm looking at a outyard for mating. Inbreeding is most visible in the brood pattern. The more inbreed the queen, the more spotty the brood pattern is due to the sex alleles. An outyard would only fix this if there were other hives (with different alleles) in the vicinity of that yard. For small operations a practical fix is to bring in a new breeder from an outside source each year. You wouldn't need to raise all your new queens from this breeder, just enough to add her to your mix. This really applies to many (most?) large queen rearing operations as well. I've been told that many only have a few breeders they use each year, which means that even though they raise thousands of queens and have hundreds or thousands of hives, there is relatively little genetic diversity. That's 10s of thousands of queens reared just from 2-5 queen mothers. Of course it's not practical for many of use to purchase expensive II queens for breeders from reputable programs that maintain a very diverse gene pool. So most of us end up purchasing open mated queens, see how they do over the season and winter, then breed them the next year if found suitable. But when doing so you need to take into consideration the above and possible order just a couple queens from different producers to ensure different queen mothers rather than a lot of queens from just one (unless of course you find a breeder that can ensure the queens you receive came from different mothers. There are a few that can, but I suspect most won't) -Tim -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 12:17:32 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Bob_Harrison?= Subject: chalkbrood control Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hello Michael & All, I did four years of experiments with Russian/Russian and the Russian hybrid. Lack of varroa control was only seen when you moved away from the Russian/Russian bee. Sometimes F1 but most certainly F2/F3. Some hybrids Russian/New world carniolan (F1) still carried very low varroa counts in the second year. 18 varroa drop in 24 hours being the highest I recorded in late August in Missouri. I believe the queen breeder Michael is refering to has loss control of his Russian breeders. If not then the queen breeder he is buying his breeders from has. Open mating has ruined many a breeding program! I still have got a large yard of various Russian lines picked from the around 400 Russian queens I worked with over the last five years. None has ever been treated for varroa or anything else. Varroa can be found in all the hives but not PMS. I have got one jet black Russian queen which is amazing BUT the dot on her back is gone so she is an unknown. Prolific, her hive had the highest Russian production I ever recorded (over 150 pounds in a drought year when honey production is in the fifty pound range)and a very low varroa count with no PMS. Not sure what to do with the exception to the rule. Guess I will raise a few queens! I dropped the Russian lines because I needed a prolific bee ,a bee which wintered in a larger cluster (almond pollination) and a bee which did not shut down with every change in the weather. I wanted my prolific Italians back ( never have not had a large portion of the hives Italian even during the Russian experiment)! We have got some excellent soft treatments now for varroa so I now choose to treat and keep the bees which work best for me. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 14:16:01 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > This sounds like apiary vicinity mating, where the queen nips out for > a > few minutes and mates with drones from that apiary. what problems are you > having from inbreeding? So far, I am doing well. But, I am on the eight generation of my original two queens, and one of those bloodlines has died out. Just as well, I believe they had been sisters. There are few beekeepers in the area and nearly no feral colonies. I'm guessing that about 15 generations of inbreeding or less, will start shot brood. I'd like to introduce a new survivor bloodline next year. Maybe someday I will have something marketable. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 14:45:14 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "James W. Hock" Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >>found my old cell builder gets hot after several manipulations, to hot for >>a yard full of kids and a dog. The > You may want to try using the Cloake Board method or using a smaller hive > to raise the cells. I've found > I used a Cloake Board on a mature hive. After a few flips they started coming at me like one of those AHB videos. >> I have lost most of my new Queens to my own robbing bees this year. > What do you use for mating nucs? How big is the entrance? The first year > I raised queens I used 5 frame Last year I used 5 frame deeps with robber screens. This year I switched over to all medium boxes, I have a bad back. I divided medium boxes into fourths, two frames each with a 3/4 enterance. I was thinking the entrance was small enough to defend. I was wrong, every one was robbed out. If I screen the hole, leaving an opening at the top like a robber screen, do you think the queen will find her way in? I was being cheap this year, trying to more with less and in didn't work out. I should have sticked to the larger nucs. Question: In the North East, how late in the year would you try to mate Queens? Last year I had drones right up to Christmas. I'd like to set up and try to winter more nucs this year. Jim Hock Wethersfield, CT. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 18:34:59 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Japanese Knotweed Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >Japanese knotweed... I wonder how many people are extracting and selling this honey? How widespread is this honey plant? There is quite a bit of it by me and I see a lot of wasps and solitary bees on it. Honey bees tend to focus on the larger stands that have good sun exposure and soil moisture. If Japanese knotweed grows in the shade of trees, it will produce little or no nectar. Although, along with purple loosestrife, Japanese knotweed provides a helpful flow at this time of year, it's not prolific enough to produce a surplus for me. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 19:45:35 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>This is not helping my inbreeding problem. Would you know if your area has a large feral (regardless of your definition of feral:) population? If yes, you should not have significant inbreeding at all. I've done several feral colony removals this year and have marveled at the viability of the feral brood in each case. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 21:23:34 +0100 Reply-To: honeymountain@kilty.demon.co.uk Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: james kilty Organization: honey mountain Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.0.20060828105236.04c200d8@mail.watchtv.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Mon, 2006-08-28 at 11:47 -0400, Tim Arheit wrote: > > I've found that when using the cloake board the bees are far less aggressive, probably because they are only truely queenless for a couple days at a time. And the queenless part will have the flying bees escape back to mum and the front entrance. So, if you take a look before you reunite, they should be quiet. -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 13:14:21 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Varroa Infestation ( Formerly: ] Chalkbrood control) In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Robert Brenchley writes: Does anyone know how successful a queen is likely to be after mating with such drones? Reply: Since the strong and healthy outfly the weak and slower maybe it is shortage of healthy drones in your area. Going after healthy queens they'd have to more then keep up. Respectfully submitted, Dee A. Lusby Small Cell Commercial Beekeeper Moyza, Arizona http://groups.yahoo.com/group/organicbeekeepers/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 20:02:33 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>There are few beekeepers in the area and nearly no feral colonies. This may very well be the case but it might be worthwhile for you to do some bee-lining to determine if there actually are any feral colonies. It's really the only way to know - when can't go by the bees seen on random flowers. I'd set up for bee-lining some 2 - 3 miles from your yard apiary in 4 different directions and see if you can attract and track some bees back to their nests. Also, try setting up some swarm traps for next spring. Most of my feral removals involve areas with no known beekeepers. I say no known beekeepers based on our local bee club's membership list. But I know from experience there are beekeepers out there who don't belong to bee clubs... Do you use Apistan or Checkmite for varroa control? Contaminated wax will result in poorly laying queens. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 20:18:28 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >>I used a Cloake Board on a mature hive. After a few flips they started coming at me like one of those AHB videos. If you don't have AHB, bees on chemically contaminated bees can be very agitated and defensive... >>I was thinking the entrance was small enough to defend. I was wrong, every one was robbed out. 2 medium frames is not a lot of bees. And it's easy to lose bees due to drifting in such a set-up. If your bees defend against humans, they should equally or better defend against insects. Where the entrances at least pointing in different directions? And, what may be most important, where the individual compartments bee-proof? >>I should have sticked to the larger nucs. Not necessarily. Kirk Webster successfully uses a set-up similar to yours. Check in the recent issues of ABJ. >>In the North East, how late in the year would you try to mate Queens? Last year I had drones right up to Christmas. I am just south of you and can get queens mated through the 1st week in October. The bees are just sealing up the last batch of queen cells from a feral queen - they should mate well and start laying by mid-September. October can not be counted on for successful matings here. I will see drones late into the season but virgins will often not fly in October/November even if daytime highs get up into the 80s occasionally. Waldemar Long Island, NY -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info --- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 07:27:45 +1000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: queenbee Subject: Re: Small scale Queen rearing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > And the queenless part will have the flying bees escape back to mum and > the front entrance. So, if you take a look before you reunite, they should > be quiet. Not the way we use Cloake Boards. When the division metal is inserted, the field bees fly back to the top part which is the queenless part. Mum is left with all the "young kids". Trevor Weatherhead Coming to Apimondia in Australia in 2007? -- Visit www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l for rules, FAQ and other info ---