From MAILER-DAEMON Sat Feb 28 10:59:53 2009 Return-Path: <> X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 3.1.8 (2007-02-13) on industrial X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, score=-89.6 required=2.4 tests=AWL,MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR, SPF_HELO_PASS,URIBL_WS_SURBL,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=disabled version=3.1.8 X-Original-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Delivered-To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Received: from listserv.albany.edu (unknown [169.226.1.24]) by metalab.unc.edu (Postfix) with ESMTP id F39564909E for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:52:22 -0500 (EST) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.13.8/8.13.8) with ESMTP id n1SFkpJ9016612 for ; Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:52:22 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:52:17 -0500 From: "University at Albany LISTSERV Server (14.5)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG0704E" To: adamf@IBIBLIO.ORG Message-ID: Content-Length: 44135 Lines: 1074 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2007 22:32:47 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Almer's Apiary Subject: Three-deep broodnests / checkerboarding. In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In Dennis Murrell's post he referenced a very nice Webpage "http://bees.farvista.net/gche.htm" that mentioned Walt Wright's Checkerboarding articles and manuscript. In addition to that, all of Walt's Checkerboarding articles are available on line at: "http://www.k4vb.com/Walt's%20BIO%20reduced.htm". Bob Fanning North Alabama USA ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 17:22:43 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: more CCD MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 27/04/2007 11:04:43 GMT Standard Time, dthompson@NEXUSISP.COM writes: Is n. cerena sensitive to formic??? In the UK we usually use 80% acetic to fumigate combs to get rid of Nosema spores. It is assumed that it will work just as well on N.ceranae as on apis. There's no point it using an antibiotic if you don't move the bees onto clean combs. If you get your bees onto clean combs in the spring (when they can fly to void their faeces) then they won't need antibiotic anyway. Chris ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 18:31:58 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: Harvesting Varroa & Infesting Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 28/04/2007 00:06:12 GMT Standard Time, naturebee@yahoo.com writes: will be happy to share the video sequence deptecting the grooming of a mite with you if I should be so lucky to capture the event. Joe, Have you, with your own eyes, seen bees damaging mites when grooming? We were informed in a lecture last weekend that the damage done to mites is post mortem. If this information is correct there isn't much point in selecting on the basis of damaged mites found under the mesh floor. If you manage to capture video pictures of bees damaging mites it would settle a lot of doubts. Chris ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 21:30:27 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "=?windows-1252?Q?J._Waggle?=" Subject: Re: Harvesting Varroa & Infesting Bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Chris Slade wrote: >Have you, with your own eyes, seen bees damaging mites when grooming? Hello Chris! I never witnessed a mite being groomed and damaged in these colonies. To witness this event in these particular colonies by casual observation, perhaps may prove to be a difficult task. Our State Apiarist; Dennis vanEngelsdorp will likely attest to these colonies having low mite populations, and some difficulty finding many mites during my 2005 queen inspection. So I need to infest a particular bee of forager age and follow her to have a better chance to catch the event. The grooming behavior, seems to be spontaneous, and can involve several bees grooming a single bee. It appears to be a vigorous licking and preening type event. I suspect that it is a cleaning behavior to remove bacteria and particles from bees because it appears the bees are using their tongues during the event and not mandibles or biting actions, but it seems vigorous enough that it could potentially dislodge a mite. I have observed that the bee getting the attention will occasionally lift a tergite, stretching and bending to allow grooming in these places. I have grainy video of a bee getting groomed lifting the left side, either 3rd or 4th tergite in the proximity of the main portion of the ventriculus where varroa have preference. The grooming will occur spontaneously and at the parameter of the nest outside the broodnest area and towards the bottom of comb and entrance area. So it is either to disruptive for the grooming to occur in the broodnest, OR I am suspecting that the behavior is pronounced only in bees of guard and forager age. We >were informed in a lecture last weekend that the damage done to mites is post >mortem. If this information is correct there isn't much point in selecting on >the basis of damaged mites found under the mesh floor. Intresting, Chris, if it is post mortem, would you think the mite would be more likely to fall thru the screen escaping damage? Or is the damage said to be occurring by other insects scavenging or damage by the beekeeper? > >If you manage to capture video pictures of bees damaging mites it would >settle a lot of doubts. I’ve been observing the behavior in this line for several years, and the main reason I want to video the event is that it does not meet the description of grooming previously described by Seeley and others, so I want to get it documented, or prove that is either not grooming, or grooming. May and June the behavior becomes very prominent, so I hope to have something soon. Thanks to all that sent advice and info to me both on and off list! Best Wishes, Joe Waggle Derry, PA “Bees Gone Wild Apiaries” FeralBeeProject.com http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/HistoricalHoneybeeArticles ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 22:33:52 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Allen_Dick?= Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit >so you tell me you are extracting combination honey/pollen >cell frames? that the bees put there? Why? Don't you have >frames of honey seperate to extract above the cap area? Why >extracting premium honey/pollen cell combined frames that >are perfect for only brooding and thus broodnest area? You >that tight for honey? Pretty well every experienced beekeeper has had reason to extract a few brood frames from the top brood box at one time or another. Being tight for honey, I suppose is one reason, but there are other good reasons: 1.) To remove the honey from frames slated for melting due to damage 2.) To get a few empty boxes when everything is plugged solid 3.) To remove honey that is not suitable for wintering 4.) Accidental mixing up of boxes 5.) Before chemical treatments, many beekeepers exchanged frames from the brood chamber into the first super to loosen up the hive, or pulled excess brood chamber honey to extract and to give the bees room In Northern Alberta, FWIW, a few years back, beekeepers were melting pollen frames, since the broods were plugged solid with pollen, or finding people in pollen-defficient areas to trade frames with. ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 21:08:45 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mike and Allen: Okay can understand these reasons for doing then in unlimited broodnest management for extracting and changing out plugged frames of stores. Now what other management is associated with the three-deep broodnests also? Also does it break out by time of year and/or needs of the bees? Also crop getting vs breeding or other? Regards, Dee __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 03:00:46 -0600 Reply-To: allen dick Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: allen dick Organization: Deep Thought Subject: High end video equipment MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I have purchased some high end video equipment (well, hi end to me > anyways) ;), and want to video tape a grooming event in one of my colonies You probably know this, but a typical, fairly cheap (>$200) mini camera will take pretty decent macro video these days - with sound. If this is a feature that is important to you, it pays to compare when buying, since some are far better than others in the same price range. I was playing with my Canon PowerShot DS600 just now and see that it can shoot down to where one bee is 1/2 the field +/-. I have to hold it within several inches, though, so for some things it might be disruptive or impractical. since the zoom does not assist in extreme close-ups. These cameras can be very small and take amazing pictures. This one is smaller than a pack of cigarettes and therefore I almost always have it along. It also has a huge LCD, which I can see in bright daylight, plus I can zoom in on detail in any picture I have taken and pan around. I carry my whole recent photo album on its 1 GB high speed card, and can instantly provide a slide show, including video with sound, to anyone who shows the slightest interest -- on the camera itself or a nearby TV, using a cable. The card comes out and slots into my laptop for transfer or editing. Other uses? Well, I take pictures of newspaper articles, pages in books, my computer screen (error messages, airline reservations, to-do lists), documents to email, traffic signs, maps and directions, people whom I want to remember, details of parts that need to be purchased (or re-assembled), etc. It has become more indispensable than a pen and paper. And when my camera is not nearby? Whoda guessed it? My cell phone will shoot almost as high quality and close-up and also do acceptable videos. ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 04:05:44 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: C Hooper Subject: Royal Jelly Recommended for Body Builders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII Here are 10 Uncommon Supplements for Building Muscle and Gaining Mass By Dwayne Jackson; Jim Stoppani Joe Weider's Muscle & Fitness, 5/1/2007 Read on to learn about 10 supplements you should take that you probably never even thought could help you build muscle... ROYAL JELLY Produced by glands in the heads of worker bees, royal jelly is fed to larvae and the queen bee. We know what you're thinking: a) that sounds pretty nasty, and b) what can bee food do for bodybuilders? While we can't debate you on the first one, there's plenty that royal jelly can do for you. It's very high in protein and other nutrients, including the B vitamins and vitamins A, C, D and E, as well as 10-HDA (10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid), a special unsaturated fatty acid… SEE: http://apitherapy.blogspot.com/2007/04/royal-jelly-recommended-for-body.html ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 07:38:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?UTF-8?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Allen Dick wrote: >Pretty well every experienced beekeeper has had reason to extract a few >brood frames from the top brood box at one time or another. I kept bees in Southern California for many years. We had no distinctions such as "brood box" or "top box". We just had boxes, of one size (full-sized deeps). The supers were frequently moved up and down the stack for a variety of reasons. I didn't use queen excluders at all, so the brood nest might be two, three, or even four stories at times. We tried not to restrict the queen in any way. Mostly, I "top supered", but if a hive was honey-bound, I simply set full supers aside and undersupered, and moved the honey to the top. I was always keen on getting the combs shuffled, as the dark brood combs are desirable in the supers for several reasons: bees seem to be attracted to the smell of old comb and will put honey in these ones first. Old combs are tougher than new ones and hold up better in the extractor. Of course, I realize that many people segregate the brood nest from the supers. In this day of mite treatments, etc. this is probably a good idea. However, I know several beekeepers in this area of NY State that run bees essentially the way I described. The queen has free run of the hive and the bees can organize it how they like. When you pull honey, you take whatever is there and if there is brood mixed in, the best plan is to move it down and pull some honey frame up, either before or during the harvest. If you harvest before the flow is over and reduce the hive to two or three stories, they can sock in enough honey for winter. If you pull honey after the flow is over, some of the stronger hives will end up a bit light weight, since their brood areas are larger and the honey ends up in the supers. The usual solution around here (upstate NY) is to come back and feed corn syrup, but if you don't extract all the frames, you can return the supers of honey to ones you left a bit short. (Disclaimer: just one approach among many. Vary to suit your own needs.) pb ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 11:55:54 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: "waldig@netzero.com" Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Disposition: inline Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mike, Have you tried running a 3-deep without an excluder? From what I've read, you get a bumper crop with 3 deeps without an excluder. And they say that, if you engage in frame checkerboarding, there is very little swarming. Even with older queens. Waldemar ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 08:06:11 -0600 Reply-To: allen dick Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: allen dick Organization: Deep Thought Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I kept bees in Southern California for many years. We had no distinctions > such as "brood box" or "top box". We just had boxes, of one size > (full-sized > deeps). The supers were frequently moved up and down the stack for a > variety > of reasons. Ahh! Those were the good old days! I didn't want to bring that up in this day and age, since it seems so long ago, now; but that was, indeed, how we did things back then, with some beekeepers using excluders here and there judiciously, many not. ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 10:44:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Eric_Brown?= Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit If, back in the good old days, all the honey combs were basically former brood combs--and I understand the advantages Peter gave--the first big disadvantage that occurs to me is the potential for wax moth damage. Was PDB a necessary part of the system, then? Eric ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 08:35:23 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Article by Sharon Labchuk MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Had this sent to me. http://www.gnn.tv/A03044 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:04:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?UTF-8?Q?Peter_Borst?= Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Eric Brown wrote: >If, back in the good old days, all the honey combs were basically former >brood combs--and I understand the advantages Peter gave--the first big >disadvantage that occurs to me is the potential for wax moth damage. Was >PDB a necessary part of the system, then? I am afraid you lost me here. Are you talking about stored supers? Are you saying that you don't have trouble with wax moths in your stored combs, except if they had brood in them? Personally, I used sulfur fumes to kill moths, but many beekeepers used (information suppressed, not a legal remedy). Some method must be used to deter or kill moths in stored hive equipment. I have heard a lot these past few years about people staggering the boxes to let in light. I don't know if this is foolproof or not. All I know is if you store bee combs in a warm place, you have to worry about moths. pb ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 13:43:29 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: John & Christy Horton Subject: Marking Queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello and help if posssible. Does anybody have a real good paint they could recommend for marking queens? To elaborate: Have you used a queen marker that really lasts a long time on a consistent basis, and that does not induce the bees to ball the queen? I would appreciate your comments, especially if you feel like you have found a product that works really really well. Thanks John Horton Ps I searched the archives, but didnt really feel like I had hit on anything I could hang my hat on-with the possible exception of "Testors" ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 14:27:07 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: John & Christy Horton Subject: Three-deep broodnests. Storing supers without chemicals MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Peter wrote: > > I have heard a lot these past few years about people staggering the boxes > to > let in light. I don't know if this is foolproof or not. All I know is if > you > store bee combs in a warm place, you have to worry about moths. > > pb > Peter, I am not advocating this method for deeps-you would have to experiment, but I can say with all confidence based on my and others experience in storing hundreds of shallow supers for several years now, that if you stagger them(alternating longer length-shorter length), and have some light present, you will not have any wax moth problems-cold or hot. this has been true for me even when humidity has been somewhat high,or with dark or light comb. I will state that I allow my bees to "clean out" my supers before storing-that is-I set them out and let the bees get the leftovers after extracting. I have not used any chemicals in super storage for - 5 years now. I live in North Alabama. You might to experiment with it to see what the outcome is for you.. John Horton ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 15:49:15 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Marking Queens In-Reply-To: <200704301945.l3UIuZiD027901@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > Does anybody have a real good paint they could recommend for > marking queens? Uniposca paint pens. It's in the archives, including a great site for best price (if they're still around (the site, not the pens)). Aaron Morris - thinking When You Requeen Get the Best! ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 21:48:18 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Peter Edwards Subject: Re: Marking Queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Does anybody have a real good paint they could recommend for marking > queens? > To elaborate: I posted this recently to the Irish list: Uni Posca - available from many beekeeping suppliers. Not sure that it is the paint that matters as much as the application: if you just apply a gentle dab, then the paint sits on the hairs on the queens thorax - and soon wears off. You really need to get it down on to her thorax by pressing just a bit harder and almost rub it in (gently of course - although the thorax will stand some pressure). Best wishes Peter Edwards ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:51:21 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Michael Palmer Subject: Re: Marking Queens In-Reply-To: <005801c78b57$72adb1f0$a6e84cd8@HortonFamily> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > Does anybody have a real good paint they could recommend for > marking queens? Testor model paint Mike ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:54:51 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: =?windows-1252?Q?Adony_Melathopoulos?= Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit There is a nice study from the Univeristy of Minnesota, summarised in the last edition of the Hive and the Honey Bee, in which colonies wintered three-high and with no insulation (just black solar-heat absorbing sleaves) had significantly higher winter survival and better build-up than doubles wintered in Peer 4-packs (insulated walls R-12, lids R-20). Three high in black sleaves did markedly better than doubles too. The study spanned three seperate winter and over this span the three-high unwrapped had 1.4 times the productivity (survival x (honey production of parents x honey production of spring divisions)) of the 4-packs. I found this finding rather shocking and wondered if it held true on our side of the border. As far as I can tell this has never been formally tested on the Canadian prairies. Adony ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 18:16:38 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: Harvesting Varroa & Infesting Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 30/04/2007 03:33:51 GMT Standard Time, naturebee@YAHOO.COM writes: Chris, if it is post mortem, would you think the mite would be more likely to fall thru the screen escaping damage? Or is the damage said to be occurring by other insects scavenging or damage by the beekeeper? Dave Cushman was there too and may wish to come in and amplify what I recall. My memory says that the damage - typically the groove in the carapace that looks as if it might have been made by bee mandibles - would have been made by cleaners disposing of mites that have died for other reasons. However, I now recall that last year I was shown a few seconds of fuzzy digital camera video taken by Dr Rodger Dewhurst of an ambulant mite showing such damage. There seems to be a need for clarity that your projected project might produce. Chris ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:10:52 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Bob Harrison Subject: Re: Marking Queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, I also prefer the una posca pen. I was marking queens today. I take the pen and push down once to get the dot of paint on the end and lay on the pallet of four hives I am working. I can catch a queen , mark her and release her in the time its taken to type this sentence. I mark queens to tell how old she is and if the original queen. In production hives I mark every queen I see but do not go into a hive with the purpose of marking the queen. I have seen paint removed from queens but do not think bees replace queens simply because they are marked. I have seen workers in OB hives follow the queen and keep picking at the paint dot but only in newly marked queens and only seems to last for a day maybe. I order marked queens at times from queen producers to see if supercedure is a problem in the producers bees. On the other hand I have got commercial friends which never mark a queen. Trying to judge a approx queens age by looking can be done but not easy in my opinion. I pick the queen up by thorax /wings and when she reaches out to grab the thumb of my other hand pin three of her legs. Always be sure you pin three legs so she does not pull a leg off. I then take the hand I originally caught her with and pick up the precharged una posca pen and place a perfect dot on her back. I never use gloves when handling a queen. The only thing I dislike about the una posca pen is that at times the paint seems to leak from the end. I find a single una posca pen will mark a bunch of queens before running out on ink. I would guess 100-150. I also like the fact that even a several year old una posca pen will still provide a dot if needed. I remarked a red dot queen in a *test* hive the other day and the ink still worked. Part of the red former dot was till there but you had to look closely. I have tried many types of pens and paint but really like the una posca. My friend Marla Spivak likes the testors paint in a bottle. She informed me ( with her famous smile) when I brought up the una posca pen while taking her queen rearing class that while in her class I graft with a grafting tool and mark queens with testors paint with a brush. I highly recommend her queen rearing class and agree we all need to try different methods and decide on the method which works best for you. Bob -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 18:42:59 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Chris Slade Subject: Re: Marking Queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 30/04/2007 20:50:29 GMT Standard Time, AMorris@UAMAIL.ALBANY.EDU writes: Uniposca paint pens. You need to keep the workers away until the paint is dry as they lick it off given half a chance. Chris ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 18:53:27 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lloyd Spear Subject: storing supers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline John Horton tells us he has been successful at avoiding wax moth damage by storing shallows 'staggered'. John, to help us understand: (1) do you store indoors or outdoors? If indoors, what is your light source, if any. If artificial, how many hours a day? (2) Do you have sustained nighttime temperatures below 28 degrees F? If so, for approximately how many weeks? (3) Do you store past your 'frost-free' date? If so, how many weeks past such date? Thanks, Lloyd -- Lloyd Spear Owner Ross Rounds, Inc. Manufacture of equipment for round comb honey sections, Sundance Pollen Traps, and producer of Sundance custom labels. Contact your dealer or www.RossRounds.com ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 18:54:36 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Lloyd Spear Subject: storing supers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline For John Horton, one more question...do you use queen excluders? Lloyd -- Lloyd Spear Owner Ross Rounds, Inc. Manufacture of equipment for round comb honey sections, Sundance Pollen Traps, and producer of Sundance custom labels. Contact your dealer or www.RossRounds.com ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:15:48 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Dee Lusby Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. Comments: To: allen dick In-Reply-To: <279c01c78b30$b5c0a1e0$0201a8c0@Pericles> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Allen: Ahh! Those were the good old days! Reply: Nope it's the good new ways again as beekeepers not using treatments more and more return to these basic ways of keeping honeybees without all various treatments, thus making interchangeability of equipment good managment again, especially when used in conjunction with unlimited broodnest of 2-3 deeps. Regards, Dee A. Lusby __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:37:50 -0600 Reply-To: allen dick Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: allen dick Organization: Deep Thought Subject: Re: Three-deep broodnests. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >> Ahh! Those were the good old days! > > Nope it's the good new ways again as beekeepers not using > treatments more and more return to these basic ways of > keeping honeybees without all various treatments, thus > making interchangeability of equipment good managment > again, especially when used in conjunction with unlimited > broodnest of 2-3 deeps. Yes, and no. A few lucky ones, especially those who 1.) are fortunately located, with the right climate, humidity and seasons 2.) happen to have stock which is mite resistant, like some strains of AHB and some strains under development 3.) are not migratory or 4.) are not totally dependant on bees for a livelihood are able to do so, some better than others, and some more honestly than others. Hopefully, over time, though, more and more will be able to do so, but we are talking about a past where everyone -- including total dolts -- could do so with impunity. ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 19:04:29 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: Larry Krengel Subject: 3 frame observation hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am in search of a three-frame observation hive. I know I have seen them in catalogs, but am having no luck at the moment. The local nature center has the money in the budget and I would like to find this before the money disappears. I know of the Draper - really-neat, swiveling observation hive. It is too expensive for them. I can find two frame and three medium super frame observation hives. I can also find the plans for building the three-frame hive.... what I need is a source to buy a complete 3-deep observation hive. Can one of you help me find this? You folks are really good. Thanks in advance. Larry Krengel Marengo, IL ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 17:07:23 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: James and Frances Boyd Subject: Fw: Research on the effect of Fluoride on Honey Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii Interesting article containing information on research on impact of minerals on bees. http://fluoridealert.org/groth-1975.htm ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ****************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 21:10:08 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu From: John & Christy Horton Subject: 3 frame observation hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >I am in search of a three-frame observation hive. I think I have seen them in a Rossman Apiaries catalog. John Horton ****************************************************** * Full guidelines for BEE-L posting are at: * * http://www.honeybeeworld.com/bee-l/guidelines.htm * ******************************************************