Received: from [169.226.1.21] by relay.internode.net (SMTPD32-3.02) id AD81111F00F6; Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:26:41 -0700 Received: from CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU by CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU (IBM VM SMTP V2R2) with BSMTP id 1333; Tue, 12 Nov 96 15:30:36 EST Received: from CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU (NJE origin LISTSERV@ALBNYVM1) by CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU (LMail V1.2c/1.8c) with BSMTP id 2700; Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:30:33 -0500 Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:30:30 -0500 From: "L-Soft list server at ALBNYVM1 (1.8b)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9608B" To: "W. Allen Dick" X-UIDL: 385 Status: U ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Aug 1996 22:01:03 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Do bees steal eggs? > There are other ways of accounting for this phenomenon.. It seems > to me that such queens may sometimes be raised from eggs that have > been lying neglected in some chilly corner of the combs, until > found and tended by the workers. I do not know for certain, but I > think it likely that bees' eggs may remain inert when neglected in > this way, but may well retain their viability. Well, maybe, but here is an equally improbable(?), but plausable explanation for eggs showing up in queenless hives: bees are known to fill cells that have eggs with honey or nectar in a heavyy flow. Are such eggs preserved and viable when uncovered? I had though that eggs would neeed to breathe and always hatch after a definite period of time, but when I stop to reflect, I realise i really know very little about them. Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 13:56:09 GMT+2 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIKE ALLSOPP Organization: N.I.P.B VREDENBURG Subject: bee glue Hi all I'm looking for some info for our local beekeepers. They inform me that there is no suitable bee glue (for glueing hive parts together) available in South Africa - and they wonder what is used in regions afar and if this would be available for import. Grateful for any information received. regards Mike Allsopp Mike Allsopp tel (27)(21) 887-4690 Honeybee Research Section fax (27)(21) 883-3285 Plant Protection Research Institute pmail plant3/vredma Agricultural Research Council email vredma@plant3.agric.za P/Bag X5017 Stellenbosch 7599 South Africa ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 10:14:56 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Malcolm T. Sanford" Subject: Re: birdsfoot trefoil Comments: To: joel b gruver Comments: cc: General questions In-Reply-To: Joel, I am sending this to the lists as well. I am told that in certain areas trefoil is a good producer; it apparently has caused friction in some regions between those bent on controlling this plant and beekeepers who want to keep it for nectar. do a review apis-l to see if G. ayers is on the list... Tom Sanford On Tue, 6 Aug 1996, joel b gruver wrote: > Hello Malcom, > I didn't get any responses from list members concerning alfalfa as a bee > forage... my folks have been observing the local alfalfa fields at > various stages of bloom and have decided that alfalfa is not a good honey > plant in our area... I recommended that they consider birdsfoot > teefoil... When I was a student at Oregon State U.. some the research > fields adjacent to my plots were birdsfoot trefoil seed production > plots... they had hives adjacent to each plot and the beautiful canary > yellow blossoms were covered with bees... Do you know anything about BFT > as a bee forage ? Which reference materials do you recommend concerning > bee forage plants ? Is Dr. George Ayres, Michigan State an Apis-l > subscriber ? Joel Gruver > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 15:55:34 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Eyre Subject: Re: Raising Queens >Hello all..:) > >I also have a question about raising a queen..I have a buchfast >colony..and I made up a five frame nuc. I checked carefully to make sure >the queen didnt come with it....Now i have just checked it after about 8-9 >days..and there are at least 6 queen cups...i see the curled up larva >covered with royal jelly....Success!!!! >I also chose frames with lots of sealed brood and also lots of sealed >Drone brood..so to raise the potential for the queen mating with a pure >buckfast drone... That way she will mate with her own brother, not a good thing at all!! Her pattern will become very checkerboard and inefficient. The drone brood from this hive should be destroyed, not encouraged. Better still prevent drones from this hive flying while she goes out to mate. >Now..since this is my first time..i am kind of feeling my way in the >dark..i have read The Hive and The Honey Bee...and the Encyclopedia of >Beekeeping..but i need some practical help with finding out if i will end >up with a mated queen in the end..Any help would be greatly appreciated Everything else should be fine as long as your bees read the same books, they will know what you are trying to do :-). **************************************************** * David Eyre 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, * * The Beeworks, Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1. * * beeworks@muskoka.net 705-326-7171 * * http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks * * Agents for: E H Thorne & B J Sherriff UK. * **************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 21:58:49 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Steven A. Creasy" Subject: Keeping Capped Honey Indoors How long can one keep capped/uncapped honey indoors in the cooled area of a house (72-74 der F) without worry of wax moth larvae hatching and doing damage. There are no visible wax moth in the hives the supers will be removed from. I want to medicate soon and cannot get access to an extractor for approximately 6-7 days. Steve in Maryville, Tennessee ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 22:24:49 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Griggs Subject: Re: Keeping Capped Honey Indoors There is a misnomer in the name Wax Moth. The insects do not do well consuming only wax as the sole food source. They prefer darkened conb which contains the remaind of the molt skin from pupae to adult. If your honey supers are light in color and full of honey you will have a very minimal chance of attracting wax moth and if you do happen to attract one of the smaller spp. it will not be able to do appreciable damage to full honey comb. You might have other more pressing problems. Cool honey of low water content is difficult to spin out. Cool damp conditions for a period can produce mold which might degrade the quality of your honey, mice have done great damage to me in the past. Cheers Mike >How long can one keep capped/uncapped honey indoors in the cooled area of >a house (72-74 der F) without worry of wax moth larvae hatching and doing >damage. There are no visible wax moth in the hives the supers will be >removed from. I want to medicate soon and cannot get access to an >extractor for approximately 6-7 days. > >Steve in Maryville, Tennessee ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 21:38:08 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Michael L. Wallace" Subject: Re: Multiple treatments of Apistan At 03:50 8/6/96 -0400, you wrote: >---------------------- Information from the mail header ----------------------- >Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology >Poster: Laura Downey >Subject: Multiple treatments of Apistan >------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >How many treatments of Apistan can be made successively (using NEW strips >EACH time)? > >Here in Maryland, our State Inspector, has told us to put strips in right >after the honey flow, in July, which I did. I am getting ready to remove >these strips and wonder when I can put in the next set of strips. Do I >put them in right away, replacing those in 45 days, and continue new >applications until cold weather sets in? > >Last year, I placed two NEW sets of strips from Summer into Fall, timing >the usage of the strips to be completed with the onset of cold weather. >I did not put them in immediately after last year's honey flow. (Both of >my colonies survived through the Winter.) > >There will be another honey flow here in the early Fall. However, this >honey is not to be used for human consumption. This will become the >winter stores for the bees, so there is no concern about having supers in >place any more this year. > > >Laura Downey >Anne Arundel Co., Maryland >corvi29@smart.net > Hello, Let me start by saying that I asked a representative of the maker of Apistan (this was during a beekeeping gathering. I won't mention names, because I don't want to incriminate anyone) how long the strips should be left in. Should I follow the directions and leave them in 45 days, less time, or more time? I told him that there had been a lot of discussion on this list regarding this issue. His answer was that experience has proven that 60 days works best, however, they wouldn't be able to change the number of days listed on the package. I realize that I am leaving myself open for "pot-shots" from every side. I also know that some will think that I'm just making the story up, but that's okay. I'll leave mine in for 60 days. To answer the question raised, there are going to be several different answers to this question, I'm sure, but we treat twice a year (once in the Fall, after the Spring/Summer honey flow is done and once in late Winter/early Spring, before the honey flow begins). Hope this is what you're looking for. Regards, Mike Wallace Sar Shalom Apiary McKinney, Texas USA "Out of the heart, the mouth speaks." ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 21:38:11 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Michael L. Wallace" Subject: Re: bee glue At 01:56 8/7/96 GMT+2, you wrote: >---------------------- Information from the mail header ----------------------- >Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology >Poster: MIKE ALLSOPP >Organization: N.I.P.B VREDENBURG >Subject: bee glue >------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Hi all > >I'm looking for some info for our local beekeepers. They inform me >that there is no suitable bee glue (for glueing hive parts together) >available in South Africa - and they wonder what is used in regions >afar and if this would be available for import. Grateful for any >information received. > >regards > >Mike Allsopp > > > > > > >Mike Allsopp tel (27)(21) 887-4690 >Honeybee Research Section fax (27)(21) 883-3285 >Plant Protection Research Institute pmail plant3/vredma >Agricultural Research Council email vredma@plant3.agric.za >P/Bag X5017 >Stellenbosch 7599 >South Africa > Mike, Don't know if it's available for import, but we use "Elmer's Brand - Wood Glue". It works great! Mike Wallace Sar Shalom Apiary McKinney, Texas USA "Out of the heart, the mouth speaks." ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 23:04:04 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Do workers "steal" eggs from other colonies? In-Reply-To: On Tue, 6 Aug 1996, Paul Walton wrote: > as I had expected. The thing that really suprised me, however, was that > one of them had a sealed queen cell in it and was well stocked with bees > and comb filled with honey. I have absolutely no idea how this can be > since they have not had access to a queen for at least a month and there > are no other eggs in the mini-nuc. Where did they get the egg to make a > queen-cell? > Hello Paul, I have often seen colonies make queen cells with the eggs from laying workers. Could this be the case ? ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 23:17:56 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Raising Queens In-Reply-To: On Tue, 6 Aug 1996, Ian Watson wrote: > Hello all..:) > > I also have a question about raising a queen..I have a buchfast > colony..and I made up a five frame nuc. I checked carefully to make sure > the queen didnt come with it....Now i have just checked it after about 8-9 > days..and there are at least 6 queen cups...i see the curled up larva > covered with royal jelly....Success!!!! Success ? Perhaps. What you have are emergency cells. Doolittle told us 100 years ago that these produce inferior queens. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 00:17:02 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Re: Raising Queens In-Reply-To: On Wed, 7 Aug 1996, Vince Coppola wrote: > On Tue, 6 Aug 1996, Ian Watson wrote: > > > Hello all..:) > > > > I also have a question about raising a queen..I have a buchfast > > colony..and I made up a five frame nuc. I checked carefully to make sure > > the queen didnt come with it....Now i have just checked it after about 8-9 > > days..and there are at least 6 queen cups...i see the curled up larva > > covered with royal jelly....Success!!!! > > Success ? Perhaps. What you have are emergency cells. Doolittle > told us 100 years ago that these produce inferior queens. > Umm...How do you know they are emergency cells?....what do they look like?..how are they different from the "right" kind of queen cells? Ian Watson iwatson@freenet.npiec.on.ca ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 20:25:39 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Elliott Organization: N/A Subject: Re: Raising Queens David Eyre wrote: > > That way she will mate with her own brother, not a good thing at all!! Her > pattern will become very checkerboard and inefficient. The drone brood from > this hive should be destroyed, not encouraged. Better still prevent drones > from this hive flying while she goes out to mate. My Reading indicates that the bees have a built-in preventative to the inbreeding you mentioned. The virgin queen flys to a more distant 'Drone Congregation Area' than do her brothers. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 20:32:40 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Elliott Organization: N/A Subject: Re: Raising Queens Vince Coppola wrote: > > > Success ? Perhaps. What you have are emergency cells. Doolittle > told us 100 years ago that these produce inferior queens. This is not neccesarily so, as has been discussed in the past. If you go through the four days after the queen is lost, and remove all sealed cells, you will have only queens raised as such from hatching onward. They will be no different than any other properly raised queen. I have seen the difference between normal emergency queens (small, sad looking) and 'high graded' emergency queens (large top quality layers) more than once. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 20:36:46 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Elliott Organization: N/A Subject: Re: ground nesting bumblebees Tom Allen wrote: > > Al Needham, I like your attitude about the sanctity of lilve in all its > forms. Only this morning I was with an Algonquin lady who is very deout in > her bekuefs stemming from her Native American background. We talked at length > about her feeling of the right to life and after life for all God's > creatures. Where does man get the idea that the world is for man and man > alone? Im not sure about the Christian ethic towards animals insects etc, but > the thought that man in created in God'simage and that all other life forms > are not., really chills me. The beauty and creativity of the smallest life > forms required just as much of God's efforts as human. Yes. we can see that > man has evolved in a most rapid form but then the fundamentalllist > willbelieve that man did not evolve but was created as is. All this is very > confusing. But I do agree that we do not have the right to destroy other life > forms > ' I question the appropriatness of Bee-L as a forum to proclaim the superiority of Native American religion over Christianity. And as a fundamentalist Christian I take it as a put down. If you would like to discuss it privately, I would be pleased to do so. But, let's keep it off the list, please. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 01:25:36 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Damon Subject: Feeding Honey I have several hundred lbs. of extracted dark honey taken from disease free hives that I lost to the mites over winter. I would like to feed it back to the seven hives that I will try to winter this year. The question that I have is should I dilute it, if so how much. If I do not dilute it then what would anyone suggest for the addition of Fumagillin. I feed using the one gallon Zip-Loc baggies laid on an excluder under a shallow super with both spring (1:1) and fall (2:1) syrups. Can I use this set-up feeding honey. Thanks for any thoughts on this. Tim Damon Ann Arbor, MI USA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 07:26:43 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Josip KLECZEK Subject: Re: FLASH_ Life On Mars!? (fwd) (este raz k zelenym muzikom) Comments: To: RJC7%MS%Mkt@go50.comp.pge.com, astrocs@auriga.ta3.sk, harrym@uspi.org, jtrudeau@maxinet.com, kgainer@iwaynet.net, phummel@hcnet.com, sharriso@execpc.com q exit .. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 23:56:02 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Allen Subject: Re: ground nesting bumblebees since my last note on bumble bees I encountered a bee that we wish to identify. Background ,Art Favreau , local bee equipment supplier and very busy beekeeper polinator and honey marketer with his wife Deb .has put out some pollination units and was called by the customer saying that the bees had strayed to a neighbors yard. On innvestigating he found that the bees she complained about were burrowing into her yard, Samples were captured. Not bumble bees that I am used to but small grey and black gals about the size of a honey bee. None of my books have very much about bumble bees or other wild ground living bees, If some one can help we will be glad to send samples for identification. Do any of you had references to some good wild bee literature. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 17:13:39 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dave Black Subject: Re: bee glue In-Reply-To: <36389F70371@plant3.agric.za> In message <36389F70371@plant3.agric.za>, MIKE ALLSOPP writes >They inform me >that there is no suitable bee glue (for glueing hive parts together) >available in South Africa - and they wonder what is used in regions >afar and if this would be available for import. Surely not, its only wood. Casemite, because its waterproof. Go to a yacht chandler or shipbuilder, its heavy to post. -- Dave Black Blacks Bee Gardens, Guildford, GU1 4RN. UK. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 09:07:15 BST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Malcolm Roe Subject: Re: bee glue In-Reply-To: <199608080402.AA231006960@hplb.hpl.hp.com>; from "MIKE ALLSOPP" at Aug 7, 96 1:56 pm Mike Allsopp asked: > I'm looking for some info for our local beekeepers. They inform me > that there is no suitable bee glue (for glueing hive parts together) > available in South Africa - and they wonder what is used in regions > afar and if this would be available for import. I'm suprised there's no suitable wood glue available locally. Here in the UK I use a casein glue sold under the name "Cascamite" which is suitable for general purpose use but particularly recommended for boat building. It seems to work well and I know many other beekeepers use it too. If Cascamite is not available in RSA, ask a boat builder what wood glue he uses. -- Malcolm Roe mdr@hplb.hpl.hp.com Hewlett-Packard Laboratories Bristol Filton Road, Stoke Gifford, Bristol, BS12 6QZ, UK Tel: +44 117 922 9331 Fax: +44 117 922 8128 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 14:30:01 +0000 Reply-To: joe.hemmens@ndirect.co.uk Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Joe Hemmens Subject: How to contact Mal Ramage Dear all, I'm sorry to have to post this to all Bee-L users, but I have been trying to contact Mal Ramage, if anyone knows his correct address could they let me know, or if you read this Mal, could you let me know your correct address as I have been trying to email you without success. Best wishes Joe Hemmens ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 07:36:32 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Feeding Honey > I have several hundred lbs. of extracted dark honey taken from > disease free hives that I lost to the mites over winter. I would like to > feed it back to the seven hives that I will try to winter this year. Feeding extracted honey back is usually not a good idea. Yes, it can be done, but as often as not it brings up one problem or another. Usually it is done because sugar is not available or more expensive, or because the honey is in some way contaminated or inferior. In today's price environment -- with bees and honey at such a large premium over sugar, it does not make sense. Better to throw out the honey than take a chance. Others will likely disagree -- and maybe it depends on region, but I have quit feeding back extracted honey entirely. If it is not good enough for humans, I throw it out. It isn't good enough for my bees. If the honey in question is just dark, and otherwise okay, I am sure you can sell it to someone who likes it -- possibly for baking -- for at least twice the price of sugar. Some Europeans like very dark strong honey. Try Greek restaurants. Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Aug 1996 22:36:53 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Max.Watkins@sandoz.com Subject: Re: Multiple treatments of Apistan Comments: To: owner-bee-l@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Dear Laura, Unless there is an extremely high varroa pressure in your area, I would try to do just one Apistan treatment per year, using new strips. If there is bee brood pretty much all year round and the varroa infestation levels are again very high (say more than 100-150 mites falling to the bottom boards through natural mortality) after you've done your summer treatment and had your autumn honeyflow(s) then OK you may need to treat again but unless you are seeing these potentially damaging varroa mite levels in late Autumn I would hold off treatment until the following year. One or two mites won't devastate colonies over the winter. The bees better protection by checking them again in the spring and, if necessary, treating them then. I'd double-check with your State Apiary Inspector first that this is permissible under local State/US law. Best regards, Max ___________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Multiple treatments of Apistan Author: owner-bee-l@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU at INTERNET1 Date: 8/6/96 9:55 PM How many treatments of Apistan can be made successively (using NEW strips EACH time)? Here in Maryland, our State Inspector, has told us to put strips in right after the honey flow, in July, which I did. I am getting ready to remove these strips and wonder when I can put in the next set of strips. Do I put them in right away, replacing those in 45 days, and continue new applications until cold weather sets in? Last year, I placed two NEW sets of strips from Summer into Fall, timing the usage of the strips to be completed with the onset of cold weather. I did not put them in immediately after last year's honey flow. (Both of my colonies survived through the Winter.) There will be another honey flow here in the early Fall. However, this honey is not to be used for human consumption. This will become the winter stores for the bees, so there is no concern about having supers in place any more this year. Laura Downey Anne Arundel Co., Maryland corvi29@smart.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 10:11:52 +22324924 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Adam Finkelstein Subject: Re: Mite Resistance of Colonies in Buildings???? In-Reply-To: <3207FABB.5B27@dynanet.com> from "Morty Lipton" at Aug 6, 96 09:08:59 pm Regarding your hypothesis that bees in buildings have a higher tolerance to varroa mites, and are generally healthier, how do you know that the bees you see this year are the same as the ones you saw last year? Adam -- _________________ Adam Finkelstein adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 11:51:53 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Scott Camazine Subject: Wanted: graduate student I am looking for a graduate student who would like to do a Ph.D on a research topic concerning honey bees or other social insects. I am a new faculty member (Assistant Professor) at Penn State University. You can learn more about the department and our laboratory by visiting our Web site (http://www.ento.psu.edu) or by contacting me (email, mail or phone) at one of the addresses below. I hope to hear from some bright, eager grad students-to-bee regards scott camazine \ ----------------------------- ()())8 Scott Camazine / Penn State University Department of Entomology 501 ASI Building University Park, PA 16802 814-863-1854 smc14@psu.edu ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 12:21:18 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "James C. King" Subject: Tracheal Mite Detection Procedure Hello All: Can anyone direct me to or furnish a detailed procedure for disecting honeybee trachea and microscopic inspection for mites? I remember seeing the above, but cannot recall where. Thanks. Jim King, Riegelsville, PA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 10:31:16 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Water vs Smoke When we are handling bees in bulk -- such as the bees on the honey house windows, we have found that thin sugar syrup usually works much better than straight water or smoke to calm the bees and to reduce running. A little vanilla helps too. In bulk bees a problem arises if it is hot; a lot of spraying is needed and the bees will get sticky if much sugar is used in comparison to water, and sometimes straight water proves to be best. When using a spray in a hive or nuc, it is important to avoid spraying into the cells containing brood for fear of killing them in a manner similar to that which ocurs when dust from icing sugar/TM mix gets into cells. Also, the idea is usually not to drench the bees. A little water in a fine mist goes a long way. Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 12:10:24 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steven Albritton Subject: Bees on Honey house window I'm in the process of setting up a honey house at my house. This is a low budget and may require open windows (with screens). My hives are approx. 1 mile away. If there are bees on the windows are they probally mine? Should I catch them or will they simply go away when I close the windows? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 14:23:11 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jorge Euclides Tello Duran Subject: Re: Nicolt's Addrees Comments: To: ximenaad@spider.usp.br In-Reply-To: Please, if anyone knows the Nicolt's addrees in France, could let me know? I'm needing the cage to honeybee queen rearing. Could you supply the addrees and/or Fax of this suplly house? Thank you. Jorge Tello Duran ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 14:19:20 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Mark D. Egloff" Subject: Honey Ripeness? Comments: To: ohbee-l@sun1.oardc.ohio-state.edu Gentlepeople: This is the first year I have had a crop to speak of and I am wondering about the ripening of honey. I know that honey is "ripe" when it is capped, but what if it is not capped. Is it no good? What is the impact of harvesting honey that may not be totally ripe? Will it ferment? Will it harm those people I sell it to? How should I deal with unripe honey? This is an issue now because I am pulling honey supers now (8/8/96) in order to begin treatment for varroa and not all of the frames are totally capped over. Is this something I should worry about? Mark Egloff Dayton, OHIO USA. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 13:47:57 +0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Painter Subject: Re: Bees on Honey house window I have another Bee Window Question. I have a hive right next to the house and it was a hot day and night the other day and the bee's were out on the landing and on the side of the hive. We have a large window close by and the bees were on the window also (not many about 8). Could the lights inside be attracting them? Why would they come hang out on the window that way? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 14:05:36 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerry Visel Subject: Re: Bees on Honey house window -Reply Like most "bugs," the bees will be attracted to the light at night. When I get bees on my supers indoors, they always head for the windows... Gerry ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 14:09:38 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerry Visel Subject: Honey Ripeness? -Reply Mark, If the nectar won't drip out when you shake the frames, it's ok to take off. I try to get at least 75% capped, and not worry about the rest. The strips need to be in for 45 days, so you should still have plenty of time to let the bees fill and ripen it and then get the strips in. Gerry ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 17:11:58 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Moore DTN276-9448 ogo1/e17 508-496-9448 Subject: Apistan strips: duration = 2 x drone brood cycles+ as of early August > The strips need to be in for 45 days, so you should still have > plenty of time to let the bees fill and ripen it and then get the > strips in. From all that I have read the it seems that the application of Apistan is dependent on when a calendar date. The issue is wether the bees that will go into the winter been punctured by the V-mite, thus weakened for a myriad for reasons. This may be more dependent on the length of the day than the honey flow. So the current thinking is the earlier in August the better. The bees that go into winter will be produced in a mite reduced hive. Also the treatment time per instructions and as advertised is 6-8 weeks. That is from 2 worker brood cycles(42 days)to 2 drone brood cycles (56 days). 60 days having been proposed in a recent post is a bit more than 8 weeks. Relating to the bee/mite life cycle and the v-mites preference for drone brood, I think a tiny bit more than 2 full drone brood cycles (2x28 = 56 days) makes sense. My logic, the mites in the brood cells are safe so the the youngest drone larvae will produce a generation of mites (~28 days). A few these might dodge the apistan and get in the next currently available drone brood (or worker brood) and be safe and emerge after another <28 days. The few of the few that would survive now would be at an exceptable level because it is now early October with much less brood on which to breed and they will be less able to dodge the Apistan. Going into winter far fewer bees will have been troubled by mites either while larvae or as adults. I get to see if my bees and mites? appreciate my logic this winter! Jim Moore moore@aiag.enet.dec.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 18:51:29 -0500 Reply-To: bbirkey@interaccess.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: Birkey Construction Subject: Re: Feeding Honey Allen Dick wrote: > > Feeding extracted honey back is usually not a good idea. > > Yes, it can be done, but as often as not it brings up one problem or > another. > > Usually it is done because sugar is not available or more expensive, > or because the honey is in some way contaminated or inferior. > > In today's price environment -- with bees and honey at such a large > premium over sugar, it does not make sense. Better to throw out the > honey than take a chance. > > Others will likely disagree -- and maybe it depends on region, but I > have quit feeding back extracted honey entirely. If it is not good > enough for humans, I throw it out. It isn't good enough for my bees. I would pretty much agree with you Allen. The only time I feed honey back is when I have extracted honey out of some deep frames for one reason or another and the honey was not ripe or ready for extraction. It wouldn't matter then if it gets stored up in the supers or not. Some times you'll get a frame that smells sour that I know was in the hive over the winter and I will dump this honey out but if I know the honey from the comb was just put in, I'll keep it. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinios USA bbirkey@interaccess.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 16:45:37 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Kerry Clark of AGF 784-2225 fax (604) 784 2299" Subject: Re: Apistan strips: duration = 2 x drone brood cycles+ as of early August In-Reply-To: <9608082111.AA22513@us4rmc.pko.dec.com> Reasonable thinking, but perhaps not the most appropriate time periods: the "varroa protected in the brood cell" period is not the same as the full developmental time for a drone. The period from when a varroa mite enters a cell shortly before capping, until the host bee emerges, is maybe 13 days for workers, 16 days for drones. So a 45 day treatment covers more than 3 cycles for workers, and well over 2 cycles for drones. I expect that several other factors (fluvalinate diffusing to wax, etc) were considered when the treatment period recommendation was being decided. Kerry Clark, Apiculture Specialist B.C. Ministry of Agriculture 1201 103 Ave Dawson Creek B.C. V1G 4J2 CANADA Tel (604) 784-2225 fax (604) 784-2299 INTERNET KCLARK@GALAXY.GOV.BC.CA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 20:32:22 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Michael L. Wallace" Subject: Re: Keeping Capped Honey Indoors At 10:24 8/7/96 -0400, you wrote: >---------------------- Information from the mail header ----------------------- >Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology >Poster: Mike Griggs >Subject: Re: Keeping Capped Honey Indoors >------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >There is a misnomer in the name Wax Moth. The insects do not do well >consuming only wax as the sole food source. They prefer darkened conb >which contains the remaind of the molt skin from pupae to adult. If your >honey supers are light in color and full of honey you will have a very >minimal chance of attracting wax moth and if you do happen to attract one >of the smaller spp. it will not be able to do appreciable damage to full >honey comb. You might have other more pressing problems. Cool honey of >low water content is difficult to spin out. Cool damp conditions for a >period can produce mold which might degrade the quality of your honey, >mice have done great damage to me in the past. > >Cheers Mike > > > >>How long can one keep capped/uncapped honey indoors in the cooled area of >>a house (72-74 der F) without worry of wax moth larvae hatching and doing >>damage. There are no visible wax moth in the hives the supers will be >>removed from. I want to medicate soon and cannot get access to an >>extractor for approximately 6-7 days. >> >>Steve in Maryville, Tennessee > To add to this, I helped by beekeeping partner extract recently and, because of time, we had to stretch it out over a couple weeks. We had the supers stored in his honey house (high 90s F). I got down to the last couple supers and one had had a small patch of brood in it. I noticed, when I uncapped it, it had a very putrid odor, like fermented honey. Upon closer examination, I began noticing wax moth maggots wriggling out of that area. I had to cut that section out of the comb before extracting. As soon as I did, the rest of the frame smelled fine. So, if you have any with any brood in them, watch for that. Cheers, Mike Wallace Sar Shalom Apiary McKinney, Texas USA "Out of the heart, the mouth speaks." ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 20:32:26 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Michael L. Wallace" Subject: To dissolve Propolis you.... Hello All, Yes, you read the subject line correctly. We recently had a lengthy discussion going, for those of you who are new to the list, concerning how to remove Propolis from clothing and the skin. And, being the resident Propolis expert I should have had input on how to remedy this problem. But, alas, I too struggled (notice the past tense of the word struggle) with how to remove this wonderful stuff. I didn't have any suggestions, until now. I discovered something, quite by accident, last night, that I should have already known. There is a chemical substance (notice - I'm leaving you all in suspense until the very last moment, when I will reveal this miracle cure) that I have used, and praised its virtues to others, that I should have known to try. I read all sorts of suggestions that were posted. I didn't try most of them, because they didn't sound like they would work. I, personally, in the past, have used "Shout" and "Spray N Wash" and other detergents with mixed success. The substance, of which I speak, can be used to remove asphalt and tar from your car, without harming the paint job. It removes label and tape adhesives that are left behind after peeling off a label or tape. It removes chewing gum, by melting it, from fabrics and hair, without damage. It will even remove those old, round, black gum spots, out of carpet, that have been there for a million years. Some of you have guessed what it is, already. The last hint is that it can help you light your cigarette. That's right, Lighter Fluid! The way I discovered it was this - I had purchased some to remove label glue from some honey jars. We then had need of it at work to remove label glue that had gummed up some scissors. My wife asked me to bring it back home because our son had gotten "Big Red" gum on some white shorts. That same evening I pulled a Propolis trap out of the freezer to extract the Propolis and was having difficulty getting it all out, so I used my pocket-knife. Naturally, it ended up with Propolis stuck to it. When it came time to stop for the evening, I wondered what I was going to clean my knife with. There was the Lighter Fluid on the counter. So, I tried it. It dissolved the Propolis as pretty as you please. So, shout Hallelujah! Our sticky days are over! And, unlike the wonderful "Bees as weapons" story, this post has no punchline. It's the real McCoy. See ya'll round the list, Happy Beeing, Mike Wallace Sar Shalom Apiary McKinney, Texas USA "Out of the heart, the mouth speaks." ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 21:59:51 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Honey Ripeness? In-Reply-To: <9607088395.AA839539418@cscuuxch.dayton.csc.com> On Thu, 8 Aug 1996, Mark D. Egloff wrote: > This is the first year I have had a crop to speak of and I am > wondering about the ripening of honey. I know that honey is > "ripe" when it is capped, but what if it is not capped. Is it > no good? What is the impact of harvesting honey that may not > be totally ripe? Will it ferment? Will it harm those people > I sell it to? How should I deal with unripe honey? Rule of thumb- if 3/4 of the combs are capped- no problem. Sometimes bees will slow down the capping process when the flow stops. Probably because it requires new wax. In this case the honey will be pretty ripe even though the cells are open. If the extracted honey looks thin you can check it with a refractometer. Unripe honey will not harm anyone but may ferment. The only time we have had a problem was one fall that was very wet and humid. The honey had high moisture even though it was well capped and some of it fermented. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 23:15:10 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: SHolisky Subject: Re: Feeding Honey Comments: To: bbirkey@interaccess.com IMHO: No better money can be spent than feeding back your own honey to bring a good hive up to proper weight for the long winter. I also include the recomended Fumididl B on the last two gallons. Works well for me. Scott ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 8 Aug 1996 22:55:50 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Summary: Drones & Acarine > Allen Dick wrote to BEE-L: > > In my reading. I don't recall having come across > much mention of drones and tracheal mites -- although maybe I > just wasn't paying attention. > There was a study done by B. Dawicke at the University of Guelph, > Ontario, canada in 1989-1991 on drone susceptibility to tracheal > mite infestation. She found that drones are as susceptible as worker > bees to tracheal mite infestation. There is no host preference of > one sex over the other by female mites yet drones contained > significantly greater numbers of female mites and total mites at > different stages of development (1.5- 1.8 times). I continued this > research and found that drones are susceptible to infestation by > mites for a longer period of time e.g. 6 days. This long period of > susceptibility to mite infestation may expalin the increased number > of female mites which migrated into the drones. Drone tracheal trunks are accepted by tracheal mites as homes. The tubes are more spacious and a lot of mites can be accomodated. Drone thorax sections are easy to view (by a bee examiner). It would seem that the longer life of drones might make them fertile ground for raising tracheal mites, however I've not seen any report of that. There has been contradictory evidence of colony mite prevalence for drones vs workers (some report higher, some lower). I'd expect that the prevalence in drones collected from a colony, is more a reflection of the average mite prevalence in the colonies of a whole apiary (which drift to various colonies), rather than the prevalence in the particular colony. This susceptibility of drones and their known tendaency to drift between hives and yards can help explain spread of acarine as well as the widely known and discussed spread of varroa. (BTW I'm not sure of the propriety of naming researchers when quoting excerpts of private communication directed to myself when summarizing for the list, so I have left the names off in case the research is not yet reviewed by peers, and treat the info as personal observations. I'd be interested in comments on this. Some assume that anything sent by email is assumed to be repeatable, but I know many scentists tend to be sensitive about publically releasing research data before publication. Cold fusion not withstanding ). Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 19:45:00 GMT+1200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: richard beeby Subject: pollen in comb honey. how do you prevent bees from placing pollen in cut comb honey when you place the honey super directly above the excluder. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 11:05:52 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Walton Subject: Re: pollen in comb honey. In-Reply-To: In article , richard beeby writes >how do you prevent bees from placing pollen in cut comb honey when you place >the honey super directly above the excluder. Place a pollen trap between the super and the queen-excluder. -- Paul Walton Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk Toddington, Bedfordshire, England. Tel. +44 (0)1525 875570 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 07:14:50 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: pollen in comb honey. >how do you prevent bees from placing pollen in cut comb honey when you place >the honey super directly above the excluder. About the only way is to make sure there is a layer (even narrow) of capped honey below the super. The bees store pollen at the upper edge of the brood nest, just below the honey stores. Provide your surplus room above this layer and your combs will be full of just honey. Once you do have a layer of honey above the pollen, too, you probably don't need the excluder anyway, as most queens won't cross the pollen/honey barrier to lay eggs above. Probably the way to best deal with this possibility (seasons vary) is to leave the very first honey super above the brood chamber throughout the flow. In other words, don't go shifting its position, putting the next super(s) under it. That way any pollen stored above the brood chamber is concentrated in that first honey super, probably in the center combs, and you can cut around the pollen as necessary when you go to pack the honey. (Not ideal, but much of this endeavor requires a bit of compromise.) Actually, some folks WANT comb honey with pollen in it. Alternatively, you could crush and drain the "polleny" combs over a strainer to salvage the liquid honey in them, or run them thru an extractor. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 15:01:19 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Luc Noel Subject: Re: Nicolt's Addrees REPLY >Please, if anyone knows the Nicolt's addrees in France, could let me know? >I'm needing the cage to honeybee queen rearing. Could you supply the >addrees and/or Fax of this suplly house? >Thank you. >Jorge Tello Duran Dear Jorge, Nicot (without "l") is a plastic industry which produces a lot of different things. Plastic queenrearing equipment is on the catalogue because the director is a hobby beekeper. Nicot don't sell directly to individual beekeepers. You have to buy Nicot 's material to a supplier. Best adress in France for export is THOMAS 86, rue Abb=E9 Thomas 45450 Fay-aux-Loges Tel 33/38 59 56 20 =46ax 33/38 59 28 28 The name of the queenrearing box is "cupularve" (the queen, prisoner in the box, laies directly her eggs in 100 plastic cups). Price is actually about 40 US$. My advice : buy also a lot of plactic cups. Other than Nicot are not suitable. Price for 1000 cups : about 30 US$. There is a difficulty using the cupularve : when you use the box for the first time, the bees must build a comb from the wax coated on the plastic fondation. Lot of beekeepers don't luck with that. If the bees clean the wax, it is possible to replace the wax ressource with a brush and liquid wax. Best is to give the box to a extanding colony having wax fondations to handle. As the box have to be fixed into a frame, you can place wax foundation around the box. The box 's comb will be build in the same time that the foundation. I wish you success. Luc Noel (Belgium) E-mai : lnoel@arcadis.be ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 16:27:32 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Luc Noel Subject: Re: Nicolt's Addrees REPLY AND RECTIFICATION >Please, if anyone knows the Nicolt's addrees in France, could let me know? >I'm needing the cage to honeybee queen rearing. Could you supply the >addrees and/or Fax of this suplly house? >Thank you. >Jorge Tello Duran Sorry, but the informations I have given in my first reply are not completely correct. All the information about the building of a wax comb do not apply to the Nicot queen rearing cage. I just remember that the Nicot's cage has its comb allready build in plactic. It is with a similar cage made in Germany (the "Jenter") that a wax comb has to be build by the bees. If you are interested by the Jenter cage (more natural to the queen because the wax comb), a good supplier is Carl Fritz Immenweg 1 Postfach 28 97634 Mellrichstadt Germany Tel 49/97 76 50 15 Fax 49/97 76 71 26 The Jenter is more expansive (about 55 Us$) but don't need cups. Luc Noel (Belgium) E-Mail : lnoel@arcadis.be ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 08:26:59 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dirk Howard Organization: Helius, Inc. http://www.helius.com Subject: Re: To dissolve Propolis you.... Michael L. Wallace wrote: > > [much deleted...] > > The substance, of which I speak, can be used to remove asphalt and tar from > your car, without harming the paint job. It removes label and tape > adhesives that are left behind after peeling off a label or tape. It > removes chewing gum, by melting it, from fabrics and hair, without damage. > It will even remove those old, round, black gum spots, out of carpet, that > have been there for a million years. Some of you have guessed what it is, > already. The last hint is that it can help you light your cigarette. > That's right, Lighter Fluid! I have also used paint thinner with a fair amount of success in cleaning up my hive tools and other implements. Dirk -- Dirk W. Howard Hobbyist Beekeeper in Utah with 13 hives (not wives) mailto:dhoward@helius.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 11:36:49 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Malcolm T. Sanford" Subject: Request for Assistance in Croatia Comments: To: General questions , apis-l@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu Dear Colleagues, I am in receipt of a request that I have not seen on the Internet. In order to make this information more widely available, I am posting this to several lists. My appologies if you get more than one copy. Tom Sanford Extension Specialist University of Florida Raymond Borneck, President, and Riccardo Jannoni-Sebastiani, Secretary-General of Apimondia are issuing an appeal worldwide to help Prof. Duro Sulimanovic, former member of the Apimondia Executive Council and Representative of the Croatian Beekeepers' Association. Prof. Sulimanovic is in dire need of a kidney transplant. Prof. Ruttner has succeeded in getting Prof. Sulimanovic on the international kidney transplant list (Eurotransplant), however, $30,000 US is needed by the Austrian clinical hospital in Graz to complete arrangements for the operation. This is a huge amount of money for anybody in Croatia, representing about five years' income for a University Professor. Mr. Jannoni-Sebastiani asks those who know Prof. Sulimanovi as a scientist, teacher or person to please provide financial assistance for this operation. Cash deposits, possibly in DM or US$ can be made by bank transfer to: Bank Branch Office No.: 013900 Current Account No: 30110-621-112 Foreign Currency Account No: (14) 2551166940 Bank Address: Zagrebacka banka, Filijala Zapresic Ulica Bana J. Jelacica 1, HR-10290 Zapresic, Croatia tel 385-1- 703055 Please indicate "fund raising for kidney transplantation" on the documentation and please send a copy of the bank transfer to: Dr. Ljerka Zeba Veterinary Faculty-University of Zagreb Dept. for Biology and Pathology of Fish and Bees P.O. Box 190 Heinzelova, 55 HR-10001 Zagreb, Croatia For more information, contact Mr. Jannoni-Sebastianini at apimondia@mclink.it fax +39-6-6852286 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 16:02:27 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Scott R. Lindgren" Subject: Old ABJ Article Hello Listers, Does anyone have the July 1992 ABJ? I'm looking for a copy of the article,"Pollen Trapping for 'Beeginners' Part I" on pages 453-454, 462, by John Iannuzzi. I'd be willing to trade a jar of Minnesota honey for it. Please contact me by e-mail so we don't bother the rest of the list readers. Thank-you. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 21:53:12 +0000 Reply-To: joe.hemmens@ndirect.co.uk Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Joe Hemmens Subject: Honey Ripening I suppose it must be the time of year, but in my local beekeeping magazine an article has been written by a friend of mine, Bill Clark, on just the subject of honey and ripening. In short... Fermentation is Preventable! Fermentation is caused by certain yeasts that can tolerate higher sugar concentrations than ordinary yeasts, and which tend to accumulate in the atmosphere of the extracting room, on the equipment and on combs - especially on wet stored combs. It is safe to assume that all honeys contain yeasts, though there can be wide variations in numbers per gram; from less than 1 to 100,000. The highest counts are found in honeys with the highest water content; eg. from partially sealed combs containing unripe honey..... No matter how high the yeast count, if the moisture content is 17% or less then that honey will not ferment in a year. Between 17% and 18% it will be safe if the yeast count is not more than 1000 per gram of honey.. From 18% - 19% the count must not be more than 10 per gram. How is the moisture content to be measured? By a refractometer! These are not cheap, costing about =A3100 in the UK. Bill suggests that dehumidifiers can be very effective for reducing the moisture content of honey in the comb. I suppose that few beekeepers in the US will have such a need for such an household item, bu= t in the damp and mirky UK they are not uncommon. Apparently a small dehumidifier will reduce the moisture content of 7 or 8 Dadant supers by 3% - 4% in about 4 days. Also - where fermentation occurs it usually follows granulation as the moisture content of the liquid component is increased. Storage below 10 C will give a good measure of protection against fermentation. Avoid the range 11-15 C unless you want to encourage granulation. Commercially honey may be heated to around 64 C for around 30 minutes to destroy yeasts and so prevent fermentation. But this process is bound to affect the quality of honey adversely. Bill also suggests that it is not a good idea to extract from any unsealed combs at all. I have extracted from sealed combs with a few partly unsealed combs - maybe 25% unsealed. I have kept some of my honey for 2 -3 years and some of it has fermented! Best wishes Joe Hemmens (thank you Bill Clark) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 22:43:25 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Franklin D. Humphrey Sr" Subject: Re: Do workers "steal" eggs from other colonies? > I have often seen colonies make queen cells with the eggs from >laying workers. Could this be the case ? > Hi Vince I once had a colony which lost their queen, then failed to raise get their new queen mated and eventualy became a laying worker colony. I got a new queen then removed all the laying worker eggs before I introduced her. I shook all the bees off the comb at some distance from the hive and returned only empty drawn comb and foundation to the hive. The bees remained aggressive to the queen so I did not remove the cork. The laying worker eggs were placed in my freezer at 0 Degrees F. for three days. These combs were returned to the bees after three days in the freezer. They continued to reject the queen and drew out queen cells around about 20 of these dead eggs. They did not hatch so I finaly had to break up the hive and move it using the queen and some brood to make a nuc. Frank Humphrey beekeeper@worldnet.att.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 22:43:31 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Franklin D. Humphrey Sr" Subject: Re: Feeding Honey At 05:25 AM 8/8/96 +0000, you wrote: > I have several hundred lbs. of extracted dark honey taken from disease >free hives that I lost to the mites over winter. I would like to feed it >back to the seven hives that I will try to winter this year. The question >that I have is should I dilute it, if so how much. If I do not dilute it >then what would anyone suggest for the addition of Fumagillin. I feed >using the one gallon Zip-Loc baggies laid on an excluder under a shallow >super with both spring (1:1) and fall (2:1) syrups. Can I use this set-up >feeding honey. > >Thanks for any thoughts on this. > >Tim Damon >Ann Arbor, MI USA > Hi Tim I agree with the others that if you can sell the dark honey, by all means do so. Three years ago I produced some honey that was dark and kind of smoky. I thought about feeding it to the bees but I tasted it first. It was some of the best I had ever tasted. I bottled it and put some in a store that sells my honey. At first it didn't sell but when all the light honey was gone, a few bottles were sold. The next week many bottles were sold. By the third week it was gone. I'm now getting request for more of it. The problem is that I don't even know the source. If I ever get any more, I will have it tested. Honey in not only a good sweetener but is a natural preservative. If you have a bread machine, use honey instead of sugar to make bread. If you can't sell the honey or otherwise use it, pasteurize it then feed it to the bees. They take it well from the baggie feeder. I recently took some out of a hollow tree after removing the bees. It was so contaminated I couldn't use it so I bagged it and gave it back to them in their new hive. They promptly put it in the super. There followed a good flow for a couple of weeks and I harvested the super. Frank Humphrey beekeeper@worldnet.att.net ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 04:00:22 GMT Reply-To: mjensen@crl.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mark Jensen Organization: No Junk Mail Subject: Re: Old ABJ Article In-Reply-To: <320b99cd12a3370@mhub0.tc.umn.edu> On Fri, 9 Aug 1996 16:02:27 -0400, you wrote: >Hello Listers, > >Does anyone have the July 1992 ABJ? I'm looking for a copy of the >article,"Pollen Trapping for 'Beeginners' Part I" on pages 453-454, 462, by >John Iannuzzi. I'd be willing to trade a jar of Minnesota honey for it. >Please contact me by e-mail so we don't bother the rest of the list >readers. Thank-you. If you had put a fax number at the bottom of your post, you would have had a copy of the article before you had read this e-mail message. Cheers. > -- Mark Jensen Ph 415 941-2254 Fax 415 941-3488 Los Altos Hills California mjensen@crl.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 23:32:11 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Doug Henry Subject: Re: Feeding Honey In-Reply-To: <320ABB4F.1D4D@winternet.com> Hi Scott, one of the problems we have to contend with here in Manitoba is the crystalization of honey because of extreme cold temperatures, sometimes exceeding -40 celcius. Therefore we have to feed a sugar/water or syrup in fall to ensure feed will be in semi-liquid form consumable by bees during long winters. Regards, Doug On Thu, 8 Aug 1996, SHolisky wrote: > IMHO: No better money can be spent than feeding back your own honey to > bring a good hive up to proper weight for the long winter. I also > include the recomended Fumididl B on the last two gallons. > > Works well for me. > > Scott > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 22:46:12 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: W.A.S. KONA,HAWAII Fellow Bee-L'er's FYI & enjoy REPORT WESTERN APICULTURE SOCIETY CONFERENCE AUGUST 5th. to 9th, 1996. KONA SURF HOTEL, KONA, HAWAII Walter Patton The Western Apiculture Society Conference was a very interesting experience with the gathering of entomologists, beekeepers and government aficionados. The meetings were held at the Kona Surf Hotel and the weather was near perfect. Starting on Tuesday the 6th was our fellow Big Island Beekeepers Association bee club members Dr. Lorna Arita- Tsutsumi and Kevin Roddy gave a very informative presentation on the history of Hawaii's beekeeping . Lot's of very interesting details have been gathered together and professionally presented .Congratulations to Lorna and Kevin for a well done job. Next on Tuesday was a hobbyist beekeeper, Alan Spencer, from Kauai who talked about eliminating foundation. Next Gus Rouse owner of Kona Queens who produces more queen bees then anyone else in the United States shared some of his observations about Queen rearing in Hawaii. That afternoon Dr. Michael Burgett-Oregan State University spoke of honey bees and religion. And Dr. Eric Erickson explained about Varroa mite resistant research in Tucson. On Wednesday the 7th the president of B.I.B.A. ,Walter Patton, spoke about the problems of trans-shipments of New Zealand honey bees through Hawaii. Next speaker Dr. Tom Culliney Hawaii Dept. of Agriculture showed slides and gave details about the safety steps taken by New Zealand package bee contractors with the transshipments. Following Tom's talk Dr. Hachiro Shimanuki of the Bee Research Laboratory and Robert Flanders of Animal Plant Health Inspection Service , APHIS, both from Washington D.C. talked about the new directions that are being developed to allow for more flexibility for future research of honey bees and the new test available to screen for Afrcanized Honey bee genetics in honey bee semen and the ability of U.S.D.A. to test for honey bee viruses. They also invited the Hawaii honey bee industry to submit honey bees for viruses screening. That afternoon the group went and toured the Kona Queen Co. and the Captain Cook Honey Co. Thursday the last day of the conference the first speaker of the day was Dr. Walter S. Sheppard Washington State U. talking about the Africanization of American Bee Stock in America, then Dr. Eric Mussen U. of California reminded us about the seriousness of American Foul Broad in beekeeping and the final speaker was Dr. Adrian Wenner U. of California about the use of Varroa mites to eradicate honey bee colonies on Santa Cruz island in California. Several of our Hawaii beekeepers were able to attend part or all of the meeting and all felt that the time had been well spent and hoped that we could get other bee club meetings to come to Hawaii. The sharing of information and ideas is what we need more of to promote the advancement of beekeeping. More details will be shared at the August 20th. meeting. The Big Island Beekeepers Association was well represented at the meeting and some new ideas are forth coming. At the quarterly meeting, August, 20th, 1996 of B.I.B.A. I plan to introduce to the club for consideration and agreement the idea that all of our club members agree to participate in the gathering of samples to be sent for virus evaluation by U.S.D.A. and possibly one or two other labs. I spent a considerable amount of time on Thursday talking with Dr. Shimanuki about our clubs desire to participate with the U.S.D.A. in getting Hawaii honey bees tested to allow for more informed decision making in the future. Dr. Shimanuki explained the details of how many bees from each yard and how to handle the bees . Mr. Robert Flanders of APHIS may be able to assist us with the use of APHIS personal. This testing information will be invaluable to Hawaii beekeepers in the future as our industry grows. I will attempt to get participation in the testing program on all of the islands so that we can get a broad base look at our island bees. Dr. Shimanuki indicated that the testing will be done with out charge to the individual beekeeper and we could develop our own procedure of data gathering. All interested beekeepers are invited to come to our August 20th, 1996 meeting to discuss and vote on this very important issue. I believe this process of testing will provide us with the information that will allow us to make informed and enlightened decisions about future importation and or embargoes between islands if necessary. Please give this some thought and talk with your fellow beekeepers about this issue and come to our quarterly meeting August 20th.1996. Hawaii beekeepers need to become better organized to be better equipped to deal with threats to our mite free honey bees in the future. I will continue to push for a state organization for the beekeepers of Hawaii and hope to get state wide support for such an endeavor during 1996 and 1997. Anyone able to help is needed and is encouraged to volunteer and will be appreciated. Sincerely Walter Patton Walter & Elisabeth Patton, 27-703 A Ka' ie'ie Rd., Papaikou HI.,96781 Ph./Fax. 808-964-5401 E-Mail hihoney@ilhawaii Beekeeper and Bed & Breakfast Owner in Hawaii http://www.alohamall.com/hamakua/hihoney.htm http://www.alohamall.com/hamakua/beeware.htm http://www.alohamall.com/hamakua/lamalani.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 20:18:51 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Wax moths' attraction to combs I was going thru my stacks of supers in storage today and of course found evidence of wax moths. The supers are stored 6 or 7 high, outside on a stands made of 2x6's, and covered. (Thanks to the mites, I have not added the supers to my colonies in the usual quantity, since the bees haven't needed so many.) As I expected, the moths were going to town on the super combs which were dark - i.e., which had had brood reared in them at some point. The supers containing light comb, even old light comb, were not being ravaged by the moths (yet, anyway). So I wonder...If there are no combs in which brood has been reared (or pollen stored), will the wax moths still damage them eventually?? That is, if the moths are desperate enough,will they attack light comb and find enough traces of nutritional substances in them to feed on and inhabit them. BTW I have not put any moth crystals or any other repellent on the stacks. Also, do folks find that super combs left sticky, after extracting, deter the moths? Thanks for any comments, JWG ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 17:08:31 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Michael L. Wallace" Subject: Can someone help? Hey, Everybody, My beekeeping partner (Ted Vance) doesn't have a computer, so he relies on me to glean information and to pass it on for him. He and I have a mutual friend (for those of you who know him, his name is Ernest Caldwell. HI Ernest!) who lives in the San Antonio, Texas area. Ernest was mentioning to Ted that he had seen postings concerning some complaints about woodenware. The problem is, I don't remember seeing any discussion about that on this list. It may be that I just ignored it and deleted it. Has there been such a discussion on this list (I'm asking you too, Ernest)? I thought that maybe he had seen this discussion on the newsgroup - sci.agriculture.beekeeping, but I looked and didn't find anything obvious. If you happened to see that discussion on the newsgroup, let me know what the thread was called, so I can read the posts. Ted was thinking of purchasing some woodenware (actually, a lot) from a particular supplier until he heard about these complaints, so he wants to check out what the complaints say before he makes this investment. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, everyone. Regards, Mike Wallace Sar Shalom Apiary McKinney, Texas USA "Out of the heart, the mouth speaks." ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 15:55:49 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Caldeira Subject: Re: Can someone help? Mike, I don't recall the discussion you refer to, but my experience has been that Mann Lake woodenware is pretty bad. Far inferior to what I have received from Kelley over the years. Cheers, John in Dallas jcaldeira@earthlink.net At 05:08 PM 8/11/96 -0500, Mike Wallace wrote: >Ted was thinking of purchasing some woodenware (actually, a lot) from a >particular supplier until he heard about these complaints, so he wants >to check out what the complaints say before he makes this investment. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 23:09:11 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steven Albritton Subject: New Queen Moved a hive to my place that had been almost completely robbed. Ordered a new queen for them on Thursday and finally got it in Sunday. I put it in the hive and so far the bees have not clustered arround the new Queen. Should they have moved to the Queen as soon as I put her in? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 00:15:39 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Doug Henry Subject: Re: Extracting In-Reply-To: <199608120405.XAA05141@ns2.iamerica.net> I extracted 6 supers last night and got upwards of 200 lbs of good honey. One frame had a small area on one side that was rigid, and transparent, almost like plexiglass but very thin. Has anyone on the list seen anything like this before? Thanks, Doug Henry. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 03:03:11 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Michael Lance High Sr." Subject: Late summer swarm... I had one of my hives issue a late swarm this afternoon.My wife came in to tell me she thought they were swarming.I went out & sure enough they were. They laned in a small maple in my yard.The wife asked if I would recapture them and I said no, I figured I'd let them go since it was so late in the year and, to the best of my knowledge, feral swarms hereabouts are extinct.Of course, as we looked at the swarm, she kept marveling at its size.It WAS a good sized one, I'd guess about 8 lbs. Anyhow, she kept on until I finally figured, why let them fly off & starve, so I hived them.It was such a swarm they overfilled a ready hive. I ended up puting a hive body full of capped honey on them.I figure that may hold them if the winter is'nt TOO bad.I could have let them go, but it was against the bee-keeper in me.I also have hope my hives will be mite free next year since,as far as I know, they were'nt exposed to mites and they arrived last spring mite-free.Time will tell.... ML High "I take my chances,I don't mind working without a net, I take my chances,I take my chances every chance I get" Mary Chapin Carpenter ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 02:19:03 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Dennis A. Meeks" Subject: Re: Extracting At 12:15 AM 8/12/96 -0500, you wrote: >I extracted 6 supers last night and got upwards of 200 lbs of good honey. >One frame had a small area on one side that was rigid, and transparent, >almost like plexiglass but very thin. Has anyone on the list seen >anything like this before? Thanks, Doug Henry. Sounds like you were using Duragilt foundation to me. Has plastic under the wax imprinted cell structure. Dennis Meeks ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 02:21:03 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Dennis A. Meeks" Subject: Re: Late summer swarm... At 03:03 AM 8/12/96 -0400, you wrote: >I had one of my hives issue a late swarm this afternoon.My wife came in >to tell me she thought they were swarming.I went out & sure enough they were. >They laned in a small maple in my yard.The wife asked if I would >recapture them and I said no, I figured I'd let them go since it was so >late in the year and, to the best of my knowledge, feral swarms >hereabouts are extinct.Of course, as we looked at the swarm, she kept >marveling at its size.It WAS a good sized one, I'd guess about 8 lbs. >Anyhow, she kept on until I finally figured, why let them fly off & >starve, so I hived them.It was such a swarm they overfilled a ready hive. >I ended up puting a hive body full of capped honey on them.I figure that >may hold them if the winter is'nt TOO bad.I could have let them go, but >it was against the bee-keeper in me.I also have hope my hives will be >mite free next year since,as far as I know, they were'nt exposed to mites >and they arrived last spring mite-free.Time will tell.... > ML High > >"I take my chances,I don't mind working without a net, I take my chances,I take my chances every chance I get" Mary Chapin Carpenter If you take a frame of brood from another hive and give it to the swarm it will hold them better. Dennis Meeks ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 09:25:49 +0000 Reply-To: james.peterson.2@m.k12.ut.us Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: James Max Peterson Organization: UtahLink Subject: Superior "lifetime" Extractor Hi All: I recently purchased an old extractor that was made by Steweart Honey Company in 1944. It is being rebuilt. Parts are still available except "double baskets" that are used to extract 6 1/4" frames. Can anyone help me find some of these baskets. This extractor was the 810 th one built in 1944 and they were built untill 8 years ago. Thanks for being there for me and all newbe's James Peterson Ph.D. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 17:54:55 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Alexander Subject: Re: Can someone help? In-Reply-To: <19960811220826831.AAA219@55.ann1.dal.why.net> there was an article in bee culture a month or two ago. that might have been the reference? dave alexander kg7zq ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 11:42:51 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Diana Sammataro Subject: Scandinavian Hives In-Reply-To: <960727232503_371477156@emout18.mail.aol.com> from "Tom Allen" at Jul 27, 96 11:25:04 pm Dear European Beekeepers, or anyone else who knows, I recently returned from a family emergency in Connecitcut where I found out that a Danish Beekeeping friend had passed away. He built some rather unique hive boxes, very similar to the ones I saw in Sweden, the insulated box with the hive supers inside. I would like to find some plans and references to this hive and would appreciate anyone replying to me direct with the answers. Thanks in advance DIana Sammataro Sammataro.1@osu.edu ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 14:28:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Beluch Subject: Mann Lake Applies for Formic Acid Registration... FYI all you Bee-L'ers In the (United States) federal register dated Aug 6, 1996 (Volume 61, Number 152) pp 40840-40841 there is notice that: Mann Lake Ltd. of Hackensack, MN applied for a registration of "Formite Formic Acid", which has the active ingredient of formic acid at 65%. This application is for use in beehives against the tracheal mite. Comments may be sent to the EPA at opp-docket@epamail.epa.gov. All messages must be in ASCII format with no special encryption. All comments MUST include the docket number [OPP-30417]. I will try to follow up with any public comments that are posted and/or the progress of Mann Lake's application Mike ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 22:31:26 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Hans-Ulrich THOMAS Subject: Video about Lestrimellita robber bees Listrimellita honeybees occur in South America and get their honey by periodically robbing other honeybee species. I have such a video narrated in German but this is not attractive for an English speaking audience. Is anybody aware of such a video available in English? Thanks for any help or pointer. Best regards Hans __________________________________________________________ Hans-Ulrich THOMAS. Beekeeper & collector of books about: - bees and beekeeping - ants (yes these small little buggers!) - nature printing e-mail: hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch CompuServe: 100045,2556 Fax: ++41 1 633 10 77 __________________________________________________________ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 22:46:32 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Hans-Ulrich THOMAS Subject: Re: To dissolve Propolis you.... In-Reply-To: <19960809013220933.AAB129@6.liv1.dal.why.net> Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: WILLIAM G LORD Subject: world honey stats Could someone direct me to a source of information on world honey markets? I am looking for current statistics on world honey and bee product production and consumption. Thanks, Bill Lord -- WILLIAM G LORD E-Mail : wglord@franklin Internet: wglord@franklin.ces.ncsu.edu Phone : 9194963344 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 16:48:58 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bruce Hamilton Subject: Re: To dissolve Propolis you.... Hans-Ulrich THOMAS wrote: > > > Mike, > > It is with great interest that I read this message about removing propolis > from clothing. One question. Does it say on the bottle what "Lighter Fluid" > is chemically? To my nose..lighter fluid is varasol... Bruce Hamilton... Cerebral Beekeeper ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 21:15:55 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steve Genta Subject: Re: Can someone help? I have found that Rossman makes outstanding woodenware. Cypress wood is what he uses so that your investment will last longer. Fred also has a great shop that can make just about anything you would want. His prices are pretty much in line with everybody else in the biz. Steve Genta POLLENDOLL@AOL.COM ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 19:52:30 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ann Dougherty Subject: Apimondia In-Reply-To: <960812211554_177441859@emout10.mail.aol.com> Does someone know when and where the next Apimondia is? I've heard Vancouver,B.C. Ann ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 23:08:04 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Doug Henry Subject: Re: Late summer swarm... In-Reply-To: I had a similar experience just a few days ago. The swarm, a very large one landed on a small manitoba maple in the back yard and extended themselves linearly along the trunk from ground level to about 1.5 m in height. I moved a bottom board and two supers along side and started loading them on the entrance. They dutifully marched in and seemed to be doing well. Like you I didn't want to lose just a valuable resource. Cheers, Doug Henry, Lockport, Manitoba On Mon, 12 Aug 1996, Michael Lance High Sr. wrote: > I had one of my hives issue a late swarm this afternoon.My wife came in > to tell me she thought they were swarming.I went out & sure enough they were. > They laned in a small maple in my yard.The wife asked if I would > recapture them and I said no, I figured I'd let them go since it was so > late in the year and, to the best of my knowledge, feral swarms > hereabouts are extinct.Of course, as we looked at the swarm, she kept > marveling at its size.It WAS a good sized one, I'd guess about 8 lbs. > Anyhow, she kept on until I finally figured, why let them fly off & > starve, so I hived them.It was such a swarm they overfilled a ready hive. > I ended up puting a hive body full of capped honey on them.I figure that > may hold them if the winter is'nt TOO bad.I could have let them go, but > it was against the bee-keeper in me.I also have hope my hives will be > mite free next year since,as far as I know, they were'nt exposed to mites > and they arrived last spring mite-free.Time will tell.... > ML High > > "I take my chances,I don't mind working without a net, I take my chances,I take my chances every chance I get" Mary Chapin Carpenter > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 20:09:24 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Elliott Organization: N/A Subject: Honey source testing This is a question that has probably been answered recently, but I do not recall. Are there any labs that do a test of honey sources? I am thinking of the pollen count type of, and am interested in a location in the United States? Who, where, how much, etc.? Mainly who? -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 07:55:51 GMT+2 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIKE ALLSOPP Organization: N.I.P.B VREDENBURG Subject: Re: Apimondia Greetings > Does someone know when and where the next Apimondia is? > I've heard Vancouver,B.C. > > Ann The next Apimondia Congress is in Belgium, 1997. The following Congress, in 1999, is in Vancouver Mike Allsopp tel (27)(21) 887-4690 Honeybee Research Section fax (27)(21) 883-3285 Plant Protection Research Institute pmail plant3/vredma Agricultural Research Council email vredma@plant3.agric.za P/Bag X5017 Stellenbosch 7599 South Africa ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 07:24:33 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Mann Lake and Formite Formic Acid > From: Mike Beluch > Subject: Mann Lake Applies for Formic Acid Registration... > > FYI all you Bee-L'ers > > In the (United States) federal register dated Aug 6, 1996 (Volume 61, > Number 152) pp 40840-40841 there is notice that: > > Mann Lake Ltd. of Hackensack, MN applied for a registration of > "Formite Formic Acid", which has the active ingredient of formic acid > at 65%. This application is for use in beehives against the tracheal > mite.... > This agrees with information I heard at a workshop I attended this past weekend. Note that the EPA registration for which Mann Lake has applied is for "Formite Formic Acid", which is not the same formic acid that can be purchased cheply at chemical and cleaning supply houses. It is my understanding that the delivery mechanism will be safer to the user (beekeeper) than liquid formic acid. If the application is approved, the good news will be that a form of formic acid will be available to US beekeepers. The bad news will be that it will be a proprietary product for which the consumer will have to pay for through the nose! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 11:07:59 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Peters Subject: TM-25 - Mixing into grease patties Hello All: Can someone give me instructions for mixing TM-25 powder into my Crisco/sugar grease patties? I rcvd my packet of TM-25 and Apistan strips a few days ago and will be starting my Fall treatments by this weekend. The instruction sheet that came with the TM-25 packet gave measurements for mixing with powdered sugar for dusting and mixing with syrup for feeding but nothing about extender patty proportions. Thanks in advance for your help. Regards, Tim Peters, Kirby VT tpeters@kingcon.com KirBee Apiary, Bear Bait Honey I rather be flying! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 12:08:36 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Sturman Subject: Re: Can someone help? In-Reply-To: <960812211554_177441859@emout10.mail.aol.com> On Mon, 12 Aug 1996, Steve Genta wrote: > I have found that Rossman makes outstanding woodenware. Cypress wood is what > he uses so that your investment will last longer. Fred also has a great shop > that can make just about anything you would want. His prices are pretty much > in line with everybody else in the biz. > > Steve Genta POLLENDOLL@AOL.COM > Do you have a number for him? How can some of us other bee-lover types reach him? Much appreciation. Keep on BEEing! John Sturman Blue Moon Farm Lexington, NY 12452 john.sturman@apertus.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 08:53:48 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul van Westendorp of AGF 576-5600 Fax: 576-5652" Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 11 Aug 1996 to 12 Aug 1996 In-Reply-To: <01I87AIRLYKI9NN4P9@saturn.gov.bc.ca> Re. APIMONDIA Meetings I am responding to Anne's question where the next APIMONDIA meeting is. The next meeting is planned for Antwerp, Belgium, September 01 - 06, 1997. It will be its centennial conference since APIMONDIA began in 1897 with its first meeting in Brussels. Then, two years later (September 13 - 18, 1999) APIMONDIA will be held in the beautiful city of Vancouver, British Columbia. (Yes, I am bias and not ashamed of it!). APIMONDIA has not been back in North America since the mid/late 1960's, and the last time it was in Canada was in 1924. APIMONDIA represents the world organisation of beekeepers associations. Its semi-annual meetings draw thousands of participants. Last year's meeting in Lausanne, Switzerland attracted between 6 - 7,000 beekeepers. For the 1999 event, we hope to attract a large number of beekeepers from all over the world but especially the Americas. We are already working on a very interesting scientific program with keynote speakers, workshops, poster sessions, etc. Of course, there will also be a large trade show. Over the next few years, we hope North American beekeepers will become more familiar with APIMONDIA and be drawn to attend its conferences. Paul van Westendorp pvanwesten@galaxy.gov.bc.ca Provincial Apiarist British Columbia ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 12:50:37 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Rossman Apiaries 1-800 333-7677 /Aa ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 12:44:00 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Wayne Rumball Subject: Re: Honey source testing At 12:20 AM 8/13/96 -0400, you wrote: >This is a question that has probably been answered recently, but I do >not recall. Are there any labs that do a test of honey sources? >I am thinking of the pollen count type of, and am interested in a >location in the United States? Who, where, how much, etc.? Mainly who? >-- >"Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) > >Tom Elliott >Eagle River, Alaska > >beeman@alaska.net For pollen analysis US$30/sample prepaid, 1 oz sample required for each test. Bearhonstok Inc 320 Boul. Industriel, Unit 16 St-Eustache, Quebec Canada J7R 5R4 Pollen analysis is not conclusive, only indicative of where the honey might be coming from. Certain plants are pollen deficient and others are over represented. Regards Wayne Rumball ODEM International Inc., Montreal, Quebec ODEM@gm.gamemaster.qc.ca Tel: 514-974-1412 Fax: 514-974-1450 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 18:48:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: DADANT'S Fresno OPEN! ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- _ _ _______ ______ _____ _ _ _ | \ | | ____\ \ / / ___| | ___| | __ _ ___| |__ | | | \| | _| \ \ /\ / /\___ \ | |_ | |/ _` / __| '_ \ | | | |\ | |___ \ V V / ___) | | _| | | (_| \__ \ | | | |_| |_| \_|_____| \_/\_/ |____/ |_| |_|\__,_|___/_| |_| (_) GOOD NEWS--- DADANT'S FRESNO OPEN 8/14/96 ___________ Dadant's in Fresno is OPEN a week after a /ZDDDDDD? \ fire that did $400,000 damage to bee- / @? ZD? 3 \ keeping supplies and has MOVED to a / 3 3 3 3 \ new building! < 3 3 3 3ADANTS > l l l l l l \ ZY @DY 3 and / l l l l \ @DDDDDDYSon's/ l l ///|\/\///\ l l \___________/ l l ///|||/|\\\/|\\ l l ///||\/|/\\|\\\\\ l l /|//\\/\\/|/|\\\\ l l THE GOOD NEWS! //\|/// | \\/\\\ l l /| |\ l l The new address is: | (O) (O) | 2717 South Fourth Street l l || l l || l l and all phone numbers are | / \ | the same. Pat Eckle's says l l | ((_)) | l l the "GRAND OPENING PARTY" will | | be announced later this fall. l l | ------- | l l l l | | l l '-------' --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ This l l tagline has l l a few l l bees in it... --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ All bees are looking for bargains in nature's supermarket ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 15:20:39 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kelley Rosenlund Subject: Removing Bee Stings, New Study The Lancet is a medical journal on the net(see address below) I'm no expert but it seems to me the hive tool is still your best bet for removing stingers. Comments... http://www.thelancet.com/User/vol348no9023/press/index.html#REMOVINGBEE > >> REMOVING BEE STINGS: SPEED MATTERS, METHOD DOESN'T (pp 301-02) >> >> If you are stung by a bee, get the sting out of your skin as quickly >> as possible, no matter how. That is the practical message reached by >> two Californian scientists who describe stinging themselves with bees >> in the interest of science in The Lancet this week. >> >> Kirk Visscher and Richard Vetter, who study insects at the University >> of California, Riverside, questioned whether the conventional advice >> to scrape the sting apparatus out the skin, perhaps with a knife blade >> or credit card, is sound. Or, they postulated, should you pinch the >> sting out with fingers or forceps? "Volunteers me and me" was the >> order of the day. >> >> With a lucky (or wise) medical colleague, Scott Camazine from >> Pennsylvania State University, as observer only, Visscher and Vetter >> drew up their shirtsleeves and "collected a worker honey bee as she >> flew from her hive, grasped her by the wings, and pressed her against >> the skin" until they were stung, twenty times in all in each >> volunteer. Two seconds later, the stingees scraped the sting off with >> a credit card or pinched it out with their thumb and forefinger. >> Camazine measured the size of the weals that appeared ten minutes >> later. There was no difference in the size of the weal after scraping >> or pinching: means of 80 and 74 mm2, respectively. >> >> Visscher did other self-experiments, involving a total of fifty >> forearm stings. The sting was left in for between half and eight >> seconds, and Camazine measured the weals ten minutes later. The mean >> weal size increased the longer the sting was left in, from just over >> 60 to about 82 mm2, which is why fast removal is a good idea. >> >> Bee stings are painful and sometimes fatal. About 17 people die each >> year in the USA after being stung by bees. When the honey bee stings, >> the sting imbeds in the skin along with a venom sac, a nerve cell, >> some muscles, and the end of the bee's abdomen. Barbs on the sting >> itself work deeper into the flesh as the muscles contract. The >> contractions also pump venom from the sac via a valve and piston. The >> longer the sting is in, the more venom is released. Hence the advice >> from the researchers to get the sting out as quickly as possible. >> >> Bees also release an alarm chemical when they sting that attracts >> other bees to come and sting you. If you are stung by an Africanised >> bee (a cross-breed noted for its aggression, and sweeping northward in >> the Americas), the researchers modify their advice. Run away fast, >> they say, before worrying about removing any stings. >> >> Contact: Dr P Kirk Visscher, Department of Entomology, University of >> California, Riverside, California, USA, tel +1 909 787 3973 >> >> Please mention The Lancet as the source of this material God Bless, Kelley Rosenlund rosenlk@freenet.ufl.edu Gainesville, Florida, U.S.A., Phone:352-378-7510 200 hives, 1 year in beekeeping. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:22:54 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Mark D. Egloff" Subject: Honey House Plans Comments: To: ohbee-l@sun1.oardc.ohio-state.edu Gentlepeople: I am looking for plans for a small(?) honey house or to convert a small outbuilding into a honey house. Are there any resources available? Also, a friend from Ohio, visited Switzerland recently and noted a "bee house", a house encasing hives of bees with entrances on the outside wall(s). It got me curious as to why these houses aren't/weren't used in the States. They seem to have some advantages. Any ideas? If no one else is curious, no problem. It's just a little "I wonder...." Mark Egloff Dayton, OHIO USA ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:49:55 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Allen Subject: Re: Bleak Winter? My prefabed insulation did well for me two years ago and I was only able to get one done properly last year.That hive came through strong even thought the top blew off if a storm. Your idea of a wind break sounds good. Oddly enough I get pretty good protetion from the north and north west by a large stone wall . The gusts that damaged my hives came from the west.The ground slopes down and away towards to south and west. So perhaps the wind came up the hill to do the physical damage. I have improved my cover design to assure that the bricks don't fly off. Right now is harvest for me and I am pleased so far. Location Princeton Ma just north of Worcester at about 1200 ft elevation average temperature a little lower than Worcester or the mean for the county. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:50:23 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Allen Subject: Re: Hive stands,reply As you say , use what you have available.My hives sit in pairs on old doors set across cement blocks about 15"off the ground. On top of the doors I have put some planking 1-1/4in thick A space between two of the planks hold a watering pan abour 4 feet long. When working I stand on the platform and lift off the upper supers of one colony at a time. Each stand will hold two hives with room to spare. Today I visited a beekeeper in Winchendon . His hive stands were made from telephone pole cross trees. They were bigger than a four by four but not as big as railroad ties. His workmanship in all his affairs was really top notch.In side his shed he had a full observation hive beautifully fashioned from oak. He had two deep supers and four shallows with glass on all four sides, it stands beside a north facing window with a landing board outside. Each section is a full ten frames wide. Beautifully made. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 16:51:08 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Allen Subject: Re: Baggie Feeder Yes I agree the Zip Lock bags workjust fine.I am still experimenting.I made a frame about 1-1/2 deep which serves as a vertical extender about the inner cover.This allow the baggie torest on the inner cover.I have also used it putting the baggies right on top of the frame. another person mentioned putting the baggie on top of a queen excluder . that sound like good sense. There is another baggie with a real pull slide zipper handle. These seem a bit easier to handle ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 18:48:12 -0500 Reply-To: bbirkey@interaccess.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: Birkey Construction Subject: W.B.C. Hive Plans I'm trying to find working drawings for a W.B.C. hive. Can anyone give me information on where to obtain such drawings? Or would anyone who has a W.B.C. hive be willing to do a simple drawing and add dimensions to it and email it to me? You can send reply via email. Thanks. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinios USA bbirkey@interaccess.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 22:38:26 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Dave Green, Eastern Pollinator Newsletter" Subject: Re: Late summer swarm... In a message dated 96-08-12 03:23:37 EDT, you write: << If you take a frame of brood from another hive and give it to the swarm it will hold them better. >> Good idea! Better yet, three frames, if you have enough hive strength to "harvest" them. ......Perhaps one frame from each of three hives..... They have to get going fast, if they are to have *any* chance at winter survival. We caught an itty bitty swarm today, one of several recent ones. I wonder if the wild bees are swarming to escape the mites. I expected a virgin queen, but it was a nice looking mature queen. Nice looking stock, too. I couldn't see any mites among them. There are no kept bees in the area where we got the swarm. I think we'll try to build them up into a decent nuc, then use them to requeen a failing full colony, next month, if they do well. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html -- End --