Date sent: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 19:27:18 -0500 From: "L-Soft list server at ALBNYVM1 (1.8b)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9611D" To: "W. Allen Dick" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 21:28:42 -0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom & Carol Elliott Organization: Home Subject: Re: Getting started with TBH's MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Palm, Kevin R. (LLP) wrote: > All this discussion about Top Bar Hives has me fascinated and wanting to > try one next year just for fun. I don't recall seeing it on the list, > or maybe I'm just not observant, but how does one get a colony started > in a TBH?? Can you start with a package and put them in the same way as > with a Langstroth, or make a split from an existing Langstroth colony, > or is there a special way of doing it?? I live in a cool climate, so if starting would be any problem, it would likely be here in Alaska. I just dumped my bees into the box, released the queen into the mass of bees, and they did great. I'd be interested to hear if there are any other methods used. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 00:18:50 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerry Visel Subject: Re: Guns don't kill people- Postal workers do Not to keep a non-bee thread alive too long, but I think I get a lot for my money when 33 cents is enough to have someone pick up a letter and take it clear across country to an mail slot I've never seen. Bravo! Ditto 20 cents to talk to someone that far away on a phone, or when I consider all the processes I use electricity for. We have "the highest rates in the nation," but I think we are just a bit spoiled, and really get a lot for our money, when you consider it. Let's get back to bees... Andy, thanks for the honey peanut recipe. I just fixed a batch for our Thanksgiving (get it?) feast at work tomorrow, and they came out great! (Sorry, but I ain't sending any! ;-) This is better than Honey Nut Cheerios any day! Have a goodun! Gerry and the other Visels at Visel7@juno.com Winnebago, Illinois, USA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 07:04:19 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Getting started with TBH's Ok I am having some difficulty visualizing TBH's but when I put medium frames in a deep box so that I can cut some comb honey off the bottom of the frames I guess that is similar. TBH'S are frameless with just a top bar? Do the bee's go bannanas with brace comb? Is there any difficult with hive(brood) inspection? Thanks Tom ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 08:48:05 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James D Satterfield Subject: Re: Getting started with TBH's Comments: To: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" In-Reply-To: <961121070419_1083649804@emout20.mail.aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Thu, 21 Nov 1996, (Thomas) (Cornick) wrote: > Ok I am having some difficulty visualizing TBH's but when I put medium > frames in a deep box so that I can cut some comb honey off the bottom of the > frames I guess that is similar. Similar, except with tb's you have a solid, big comb of honey with no frame to get in the way. > TBH'S are frameless with just a top bar? Yes, with top bars. Most of mine have 20 bars...30 might be better. > Do the bee's go bannanas with brace comb? No, not usually in my experience so far. If you place an undrawn bar, with about a half inch starter strip, between between two drawn, straight combs, then you'll get a straight comb drawn during a honeyflow. Besides, if you do get brace comb there is no problem. Just cut it out and throw it into the wax melter. Honey stored in brace comb is just as good. If it's in the surplus comb area, just harvest it along with the rest. I have one colony that I'm keeping in tbh made from an old desk drawer. It's a bit narrower and not quite as deep as a "standard" brood chamber. For some reason, that colony seems to have a lot of cross comb construction. An earlier thread suggested that some colonies have a predisposition for this. I'll try another queen next year after first putting the colony on some straight combs. > Is there any difficult with hive(brood) inspection? No. It's easier than a Langstroth type hive. Take off the tin or cardboard or whatever you're using to cover the frames. Start at the back if you have entrance holes in one end or start at either end if you have holes along both sides. Remove a bar next to the end. It shouldn't be a full, capped bar. If it is you need to harvest your honey. If bees are working on that bar, put it to rest on something. I've made a cradle to hold such bars. My tbh's also rest on a stand so that I can work them at a comfortable height. The spacing of the 2x4 that the hives sit on is such that I can put a drawn bar between them. I also use a 5-bar nuc box or 5-bar "super" for the same purpose. Work toward the cluster by shifting each bar. If there is any significant comb attachment to the sides, it will usually be in the first couple of inches down. Use your hive tool to free the sides. You will find that the bees are disturbed very little by this inspection is you work smoothly and carefully; moreover, you can see all of the inside of the hive chamber...no hidden recesses. When you take a bar out, just hold it by either end and, keeping the bar level, move your hands so that you can see the other side. Or hold the bar below waist level and bend forward and look at the other side. Or rotate the bar in the plane of the comb so that the bar is verticle, then swing the comb around in the long axis of the bar. Just *DON"T* hold the bar level and try to rotate the bar around its long axis and turn the comb upside down. A "young" comb will break off and you'll have bees, honey, brood, etc on your shoes. I wouldn't even try this rotation with an old, tough comb. Soon you will have finished your inspection, seen everything, and not lifted a super off the brood chamber. Yeah! Hope this helps. Cordially yours, Jim --------------------------------------------------------------- | James D. Satterfield | E-Mail: jsatt@gsu.edu | | -------------------------------- | 258 Ridge Pine Drive Canton is about 40 mi/64 km | | Canton, GA 30114, USA north of Atlanta, Georgia USA | | Telephone (770) 479-4784 | --------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 09:50:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Palm, Kevin R. (LLP)" Subject: Re: Getting started with TBH's Comments: To: James D Satterfield Jim, I appreciate your advice. It really sounds like an interesting form of beekeeping. The only concern I have is how well a TBH will winter. Here in Northeastern Ohio, it gets mighty cold in the winter. Have you heard anything about how well TBH's make it through the winter?? I imagine that the hive would have to be wrapped somehow (blanket, maybe?), but allow moisture to escape like in a Langstroth. I'm always willing to try something new. Now if I can just convince my wife that this is a good idea :-). You may not be a beekeeping "authority", Jim, but I've found your TBH descriptions and anecdotes invaluable!! Thanks again, Kevin Palm Grafton, Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 12:01:11 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Berube Subject: top bar hives (web link to plans thereof) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" There's been a thread on top bar hives that has continued log enough to have induced a couple of folks to write to me personally so I thought that I'd mention my web site again (which includes plans for the KTBH in downloadable "gif" format). For more information try the following link (you can clip the portion below, save it as a file and, once on-line and in your browser, you can use the "open file" option for whatever you call it and double click on the colored portion to link to the site): "Bees in the Belfry; American Bee Journal, July 1989
"The Kenya Top-Bar Hive as a Better Hive in Developing Countries," American Bee Journal, August 1989
http://pinc.com/~bwarner/ktbh.htm links to "The Kenya Top-Bar Hive as a Better Hive in Developing Countries," _American Bee Journal,_ August 1989 (about the advantages of the Kenya Top Bar Hive in some circumstances [plans included in a graphical link]) http://pinc.com/~bwarner/belfry.htm links to "Bees in the Belfry; American Bee Journal, July 1989 (about my first experience with [africanized] bees and the Kenya Top Bar Hive) bee well, - Conrad Berube " ` ISLAND CROP MANAGEMENT " ` 613 Hecate St. _- -_`-_|'\ /` Nanaimo, B.C. _/ / / -' `~()() V8N 1X5 \_\ _ /\-._/\/ (250)754-2482; fax (250)656-8922 / | | email: uc779@freenet.victoria.bc.ca '` ^ ^ website: http://vvv.com/~bwarner/ ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:29:42 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Will Theunissen Subject: Desensitization Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello bee-friends. As chairman of our local beekeeping organization in Nijmegen (Holland) I would ask for information on desensitization for bee-venom. One of our members had an anaphylactic shock as a reaction on some stings this summer. Now he is keeping an Epipen with him for the case of. A few weeks ago he was offered an desensitization-therapy by injection of small amounts of bee venom. This treatment lasts at least two years, but there is only little known about the results that can be prospected. We all hope that it will be successfully because he is an enthusiastic beekeeper. Our question to you all is to send any comments about desensitation therapy, are there any fellow-beekeepers who have experience with it ? Where can we find any facts about it and are there any publications about the results, side-effects and succes-rate ? Thanks for any comments, greetings (\ -----------------------{|||8 (/ Will Theunissen Oude Bovensteweg 51, 6584 CJ Molenhoek, Holland phone (31) 024 3584589 mail W.Theunissen@inter.nl.net mail W.Theunissen@medilink.nl /) 8|||}------------------------------------------------- ------- \) ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 16:02:23 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Bernard Subject: queen disks Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Does someone have the name and address of the company that sells the color coded and numbered disks for identifying queens? I know it was posted some time ago but I have been unable to locate the information. Thanks you for your patience. David David Bernard EAS Master Beekeeper President, Maryland State Beekeepers EAS Director for Maryland Damascus, MD USA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 15:49:55 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: Getting started with TBH's Comments: To: "Palm, Kevin R. (LLP)" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ... Hopefully there is enough forage around my house to support >four hives. We'll have to see. . . > >Thanks again, >Kevin Palm >Grafton, Ohio Hi Kevin. The top-bar hive would cost only a few dollars, even with new materials. You can get very creative, too, using odd boards or wood from pallets, the materials are not very critical. In OH I'm fairly certain you'd have forage for up to 12-20 colonies, presuming you are not in a big city. That's what I've found here in NY and also in Mass. where I first started with bees as a kid. The areas have been suburban or not-quite rural. Regarding extracting, don't rush out and buy an extractor, pump, tanks, uncapping equipment, etc. -- it can be much simpler -- this is what I have done: Take a 5-gal or larger pail. Droop some nylon-mesh cloth (about the mesh of window screen, perhaps a paint-strainer; I have used new mesh curtain material. It's pretty cheap and will last for years.) You want the mesh size to be about the same as that of a big soup strainer. This cloth goes over the top of the pail, hanging down in halfway or less. Secure the strainer-cloth around the perimeter with closepins or tape. Or, you can cut big circle out of the lid, and snap the lid on over the overhanging strainer-cloth. Now, You can lay some heavy 1/2" mesh hardware cloth over the top. (I stapled the hardware cloth on a square frame which sets neatly over the pail). Next take a honeycomb and lay it over the screen. Mash the comb through it with a piece of wood or big spoon. This ruptures all the cells, and the sticky wax/honey conglomeration drops down onto the nylon mesh. It will look terrible, but wait. You will be surprised -- almost all the honey will drip down within a couple of days. You can speed it up by placing the pail in a warm place. I have set them in the back of a station wagon, with all the windows rolled up. It gets nice and warm on a sunny day, even in cool weather. When finished dripping, say three days, remove the strain-cloth containing the "dry" wax, which will just be a big golden lump of wax crumbs and odd comb pieces, all broken up. You can then tie the strainer cloth (with the wax in it) up near the bees on a warm day and they will salvage much of the remaining honey from the outside of the mesh. (Or, go immediatly to the next step.) Later, rinse the wax in cool water, after which you can melt it down into cakes for candles or whatever. Honey processed like this is just as good and clear as that from a machine. Cover the pail up, and let it settle for a few days in a warm place. Then you can skim the mass of froth (air bubbles, tiny bits of wax) off the top (feed it back to your bees!). Strain the honey through a finer mesh, and then start bottling. I warm the pail in a hot water bath (~120 degrees), then it is nice and warm and will pass through a couple thicknesses of white panty hose (new of course!).The whole process is very fast, and you will probably process the entire crop much faster (and with less work) than if you had to use a real extractor. Incidentally, this plan was described in a very old book, ALLEN LATHAM'S BEE BOOK. This is how he processed his crop. He had large numbers of colonies in Massachusetts very long ago. SO: don't worry about expenses, as you don't need anything fancy. Keep it simple. I have often supered my regular Langstroth hives with frames containing foundation strips only. When full and completed, I harvest and cut the combs from the frames (leaving about 1/4" of comb along the top-bar to serve as a guide for the replacement comb). If you only have a few combs, you can easily just put them in a pail, roll up your sleeves, and mash the heck out of them by hand. Now that's fun! Dump the gooey mass over a strainer cloth and pail, and let the wax drip dry. Bingo - extracted honey. If you are reluctant to invest in an extractor and amenities ($$$!), you can give your bees empty frames with starters (strips of foundation) in the honey super-frames, and process your frame-hive honey this same way. Also, if you come across some really nice combs, you can cut them up into chunk/comb honey. It will be worth more than liquid honey. The rest of the combs, which are not really smooth and attractive (or straight) you just mash and drain. This method may sound like it wouldn't work well, but I have been pleased and very surprised to find that you can get almost ALL the honey out this way. With the combs good and shredded, the honey makes its way down thru the wax by sheer gravity. Bear in mind tho', that if the honey is very thick (as some varieties are) it might not work so well. Whatever you do, if you set it in a vehicle make sure the windows are all up, or you'll end up with a car full of bees! Good luck! JWG ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:04:26 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kelley Rosenlund Subject: Re: queen disks Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Does someone have the name and address of the company that sells the color >coded and numbered disks for identifying queens? I know it was posted some >time ago but I have been unable to locate the information. These folks have a pix & info on the web. ******************************************************************* E.H. Thorne (Beehives) Ltd. Beehive Works Louth Road, Wragby Lincs, LN3 5LA United Kingdom Phone: +44 01673 858555 Fax: +44 01673 857004 http://www.thorne.co.uk thorne@dial.pipex.com ******************************************************************* God Bless, Kelley Rosenlund rosenlk@freenet.ufl.edu Gainesville, Florida, U.S.A., Phone:352-378-7510 200 hives, almost 2 years in beekeeping. 8 frame deeps,shallows. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:01:35 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Smokey Honey... In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello all... I have just been extracting some supers that I obviously had used too much smoke on when removing them from the colony. They are a little more grumpy that my other Italians. Now I can taste a definite, if small smokeyness to the honey. I was just wondering if, at this point, there is anything that can be done. @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @ Ian Watson @ @ iwatson@freenet.npiec.on.ca @ @ @ @ THREE BEES: @ @ Bach singer ,/// @ @ Bee keeper >8'III}- @ @ Bell ringer ',\\\ @ @ @ @ 4 hives, 2 years in Beekeeping @ @ St. Catharines, Canada @ @ "I BEE, therefore I am" @ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:25:19 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Miller Subject: Re: Wax moths Joe Hemmens writes of an English product called "Certan" for wax moth control. Unfortunately, I do not believe the product (or anything like it) is registered for wax moth control in the United States. W. G. Miller Gaithersburg, MD ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 14:46:51 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Moore DTN276-9448 ogo1/e17 508-496-9448 Subject: FYI: Peace Corp Bee Books... This might interest some BEE-L members. Regards, Jim Moore ========================================================== Taken from ... http://www.peacecorps.gov/www/otaps/ICE5.HTML -------------------------------------------------------------------------- PEACE CORPS The Toughest Job You'll Ever Love! List of All ICE Technical Publications Available for Purchase Following is a complete list of Peace Corps/Information Collection and Exchange publications that are available for purchase. Text versions of titles preceded by double asterisks are available for downloading at this site. I only selected the "beekeeping" entries.. ------------------------------------------------------------ M0017 Small Scale Beekeeping. Curtis Gentry. (Peace Corps ICE) 211 pp. 1982 An overview of beekeeping and its potential use as a tool for development. Includes basics of beekeeping, project planning, management schemes, disease control, and a hard-to-find guide to intermediate technology beekeeping systems and methods. Also available in Spanish (M0025) and French (M0026). ERIC: ED241775 NTIS: PB85 247278/AS NTIS Price Code: A10/A01 $38.00 outside US $76.000 -------------------------- M0025 Apicultura de Pequena Escala, La. Translated by FLS, Inc. (Peace Corps ICE) 211 pp.1982 (Spanish) Spanish version of M0017, "Small Scale Beekeeping." ERIC: ED307468 NTIS: PB87 182549/AS NTIS Price Code: A10/A01 $38.00 -------------------------- M0026 Apiculture de Petite Echelle. Curtis Gentry. (Peace Corps ICE) 213 pp. 1982 (French) French version of M0017, "Small Scale Beekeeping." ERIC: ED307469 NTIS: PB87 182556 NTIS Price Code: A10/A01 $38.00 -------------------------- R0032 Lesson Plans for Beekeeping in the Philippines. Diana Sammataro. (Peace Corps ICE) 62 pp. 1978 Step-by-step procedures and basic technical information for starting and maintaining small-scale beekeeping projects, including constructing beehives and marketing their products. Provides technical drawings. Originally prepared for Peace Corps/Philippines. ERIC: ED241781 NTIS: PB85 239044 NTIS Price Code: A04/A01 $21.50 outside US $43.00 -------------------------- R0061 Guia Practica: Como Manejar Abejas Africanizadas. Robert Bailey & Douglas Anderson. (Peace Corps ICE) 55 pp. 1986 (Spanish) Describes the history and nature of the "Africanized" bee in Latin America, comparing it to the European bee. Discusses beekeeping equipment and methods, including beehive construction and dismantling. Addresses general management problems, including diseases and insects that destroy bees, as well as the dangers of beekeeping. NTIS: PB87 222741 NTIS Price Code: A04/A01 $21.50 -------------------------- T0029 Manual for Trainers of Small Scale Beekeeping Development Workers, A. Prepared by CHP International, Inc. (Peace Corps ICE) 392 pp. 1983 Guide for planning, designing, and implementing pre-service and in-service beekeeping skill training. Includes sample training designs, guidelines for training preparation, detailed sessions and handouts, follow-up questionnaires, and recommendations for evaluation. Covers basic bee management and biology, and construction of intermediate technology hives, swarm boxes, honey extractors, etc. ERIC: ED242921 NTIS: PB85 242758/AS NTIS Price Code: A15/A01 $49.00 outside US $98.00 -------------------------- Prices determined from ftp://ftp.fedworld.gov/pub/ntis/procode.pdf and assume that the books are in print. Out of print prices are higher. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:38:07 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: Desensitization In-Reply-To: <199611212029.VAA20500@altrade.nijmegen.inter.nl.net> from "Will Theunissen" at Nov 21, 96 09:29:42 pm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dr. Thomas Bell of Missoula, Montana has done some work along this line, also published a brief note about the high incidence of allergy among family members of beekeepers. I don't know that any reports such as you request have been published. I do know that two of my students became allergic to honey bee stings, got the shots, and went back to work with bees. I also know a beekeeper whose kids got the shots, helped one, not the other. Dr. Bell says that the traditional skin scratch test may or may not be a reliable predictor of allergy. People vary a lot, and some have nasty reactions without responding to the test. Others experience a bad episode and then don't the next time. However, it has been our experience that once set down the path of sensitivity, the shots are your best bet for turning things around. Over the years, I have met beekeepers across the U.S. who have had someone in the family become sensitive, get the shots, and go back to working with bees. The most extreme case, from a presumably reliable source, described a woman who was so allergic that she had violent reactions to any amount of venom - so the shots were not an option. Reportedly, the Mayo Clinic gave her a massive blood transfusion from a beekeeper, than started the series of shots. Can't say that I talked to the woman, but my source claimed to have known her. The older whole bee extracts were pretty variable in success. The pure venom extracts seem to work much better. Pricey, but possibly worth the cost and trouble if you truly want to keep working with bees. Of course, Dr. Bell cautions that it may not work for all. The people on my crew who have had the shots, carry a sting kit. Oh yes, one now also works with Bumblebees and has been stung and hasn't had any serious reactions to either Honey Bees or Bumblebees. Jerry Bromenshenk The University of Montana-Missoula jjbmail@selway.umt.edu P.S. It is unfortunate that the cost of the shots is high enough that most Doctors advise simply staying away from bees. Some of my colleagues do field work in remote areas of distant countries. They have opted for the shots - why worry when it can be corrected (at least for many). ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 20:16:31 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "William Nelson@Aol.Com" Subject: Re: Guns don't kill people- Postal workers do I don't feel we need this type of diatribe on bee line. Over broad genrealizations of any type hurt very real people. Let's keep our complaints to the point, and try to offer real solutions to problems. Bee biology problems. Apiarist AKA: Bill Nelson North Liberty, Indiana ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 23:17:41 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "" Subject: Re: Top Bar Hives (TBHs) In a message dated 96-11-20 12:15:08 EST, you write: >On Wed, 20 Nov 1996, James D Satterfield wrote: > >>Nope, even in my "Modified Tanzanian TBH's" I only find moderate comb >>attachment during heavy honey flows. Besides it's no problem. > >Thanks for the comments. One thought occurred to me. Most of my experience >was >with causcasian bees. Is it possible that you are keeping Italians? I am sure >they are less likely to fill in spaces with wax and propolis. Our caucasians >abhorred a space. > > If your caucasians are building more bridgework and filling up spaces more than my italians then I feel sorry for you Bob! Regards, Harry Sweet N. California ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 23:17:47 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "" Subject: Re: Power comb filler, computer beekeeping. In a message dated 96-11-20 12:51:58 EST, you write: > Now I have a question? Are there any commercial beekeepers that are using >their computers for recording their feild work, and keeping yard records. If so I >would be interested in any information you would care to share in this area. > I stumbled on to a cheap lap top and am trying to set up to use it for >keeping track of things. Any experience with this sort of thing would be >greatly appreciated. > > Leon Christensen, > Rocky Mountain House, Alberta. > leonc@ccinet.ab.ca Hi Leon, I might suggest a spreadsheet like Excel or Quattro Pro 5 (my choice) or later versions. I use it even on my old 386DX33 for keeping track of lot's of things. Computer shows are your best bet for bargains. Good luck, Harry Sweet N. California ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 23:17:48 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "" Subject: Re: Wax moths In a message dated 96-11-21 17:30:41 EST, you write: >Joe Hemmens writes of an English product called "Certan" for wax moth >control. Unfortunately, I do not believe the product (or anything like it) >is registered for wax moth control in the United States. > >W. G. Miller >Gaithersburg, MD I think Mid-Con used to sell it if they don't now. It can only be used in stored equipment - so why bother? Para-di-chloro (moth balls) work just fine and can be found at your local drug store. Harry Sweet N. California ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:46:57 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Top Bar Hives (TBHs) Comments: To: "" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > >>Nope, even in my "Modified Tanzanian TBH's" I only find moderate > >>comb attachment during heavy honey flows. Besides it's no > >>problem. If you do not crowd bees too much, there should be little problem. However bees will even glue Langstroth frames in pretty tight and attach the frames to the hive walls if you let them plug up too much. Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art <http://www.internode.net/~allend/> ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 22:04:30 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Top Bar Hives (TBHs) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Bob, and others, I am keeping Italians but I am anxious to try > Caucasians next year. I understand that they are naturally inclined > to spread the brood laterally. Something I read somewhere, long long ago: Bees tend to build their hive to correspond to the angle of inclination of the lines of magnetic force -- more vertical nearer the poles, and horizontal at the equator. Hence the Kenyan hive is an equatorial hive design and may not be suited to the extremes of north or south. True? Not true, Who knows? Discuss? Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art <http://www.internode.net/~allend/> ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 22:38:28 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Power comb filler MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > I have a commercially built power comb filler. > I would not recommend it for regular feeding of hives with bees. (Hi Leon-- good to hear from you). PMFJI, but the big disadvantage I found with this method is that if more than a comb or two are filled and then placed into a small hive --say a single -- the hive can become pretty damp inside since thin syrup must be used to come out of the jets. Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art <http://www.internode.net/~allend/> ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 22:32:57 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Bob St. John" Subject: Re: Top Bar Hives (TBHs) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >If your caucasians are building more bridgework and filling up spaces >more than my italians then I feel sorry for you Bob! > >Regards, >Harry Sweet >N. California > > Harry; I doubt that one can find any authentic caucasians in the USA at this time. There are, however, bees that will aproximate some of their characteristics. The complaint about the caucasians 50 years ago was that they gathered too much propolus and gummed up the hive. In truth, when I bought some bees that had Italian queens I was amazed at how little propolus and burr comb there was. The problem with them, in California, was that when the spring rains came they had to fed heavily or they would starve because they did not stop raising brood when the nectar flow stopped. I remember carrying sacks of sugar through the snow to feed bees that were getting stiff on the comb. Now, the Caucasian queens would stop laying eggs when the snow and rain cut off the nectar flow. The queens called Caucasian and Carniolan were for many years selected by color because that was the only criteria we had. We tried to keep some other desired qualities but I doubt that they would be recognizable if compared to Caucasians from Russia. The Italians were selected for color, also so the original traits of the various breed were largely lost. We must depend on the abilities of various queen breeders to provide the traits we want. Anyway, I wasn't referring to the bees I have now. They are hybrids of everything and anything available. We still have a lot of feral bees and swarms here in Hawaii and they are developing tropical traits because so many of us have used swarms to build our poplulations. Bees that swarm breed descendants that swarm. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 09:45:07 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Joe Hemmens Subject: Re: Wax moths MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Harry Sweet wrote - > >Joe Hemmens writes of an English product called "Certan" for wax moth > >control. Unfortunately, I do not believe the product (or anything like it) is > >registered for wax moth control in the United States. > > > >W. G. Miller > >Gaithersburg, MD > > It can only be used in stored equipment - so > why bother? Para-di-chloro (moth balls) work > just fine and can be found at your local drug store. As I originally wrote, the manufacturers state than Certan can be used on occupied brood combs provided that the brood will not be chilled. Joe Hemmens ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 22:51:51 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "R. C. van Ouwerkerk" Organization: Planet Internet Subject: Re: Guns don't kill people- Postal workers do MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I have > always found that I get excellent service from my carrier when I treat him > or her with respect and as a professional. I wonder how our system compares with > postal systems around the world. In my country before WWI there used to be 5 deliveries per weekday, 3 on Saturdays and one on Sunday. The mailbox was emptied many times a day. In Amsterdam we had lewtterboxes on every streetcar that went to Central Station, waranting every letter to get on the train within the hour. Any letter posted would be delivered the next day. Gradually got worse. Nowadays they claim that if you post your letter before 1800 hours it will be delivered the next day only in major cities, otherways it may take an extra day. Automatizing the system results in less postmen to deliver, so the time of delivery becomes later and later. Now they sort the mail in the morning and bring it to you late in the late afternoon. It is not, however, the postman who is to blame. When somebody complained he got a letter saying: you should get a P.O.box and realize that THE WRITTEN LETTER IS AT THE END OF ITS PRODUCT LIFE CYCLE. So we all should get used to email and the web. -- Richard C.van Ouwerkerk, arts richardc@pi.net anesthesioloog tel/fax +31 20 6953246 Geerdinkhof 529 PE1KFM 1103 RH AMSTERDAM ZUIDOOST The Netherlands Yea, from the table of my memory I'll wipe away all trivial fond records. Hamlet (Act I, Sc. 5, Line 98) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 07:18:50 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Trevor Weatherhead Subject: Re: Desensitization In 1988 in Australia we held the Second Australian and International Bee Congress. In the Proceedings from the Congress there are two papers presented on this subject. They are:- The Assessment of Risk of Severe Allergic Reactions to Bee Stings by Dr. J.H. Day M.D. Dr. Day then was from the Queen's University, Kingston, Ontario, Canada. I am not sure if he is still there. Bee Sting Allergy by Dr. G.O. Solley, Allergist in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. Dr. Solley has had a lot of experience in treating people with severe allergic reactions to bee stings. I know because my father has been to him. My father had for years not had severe allergic reactions to bee stings. As a young fellow he robbed feral hives in trees and suffered no severe reactions to the stings. One day in later years, he was working in the garden and was stung on the hand. He came up to the house and collapsed on the floor. He went to Dr. Solley and had the injections. He now has been told he can stand a couple of stings. He has since received the odd sting in the garden without any severe reactions. I hope this helps answer the question on desensitizing people to bee stings. No doubt there are many other stories about this subject. Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 14:49:28 -0800 Reply-To: alwine@concentric.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: post office MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Who do you deal with 6 days a week and don't get upset with sometimes? > Dan Dempsey-BeeKeeper and Letter Carrier I go look at my two hives at least once a day. I don't get upset with them-although if I fail to respect their privacy-they may very well get quite upset with me! :) -- Al Needham * Scituate,MA,USA * Alwine@concentric.net >"The HoneyBee"-An Educational Software Program V1.0< Available at: Http://www.kuai.se/~beeman/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 04:04:54 -0700 Reply-To: alwine@concentric.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: TBH in Winter MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To Jim et al: Probably like many others I have been following this Tbh thread closely and find it very interesting! I may have missed something along the way-like "how well can a tbh winter up in these colder climates in New England & North into Canada?" I always thought that you really need two supers to get thru a winter-in case it gets real frigid. [I always err on the safer side.] As near as I can see, tbh's are really about the depth of one full super, more or less? Since I always thought bees move upward in the winter - what happens in a tbh? They don't go sideways do they? Or is it more a matter of keeping closer tabs on whether or not they need a little feed at some point? Regards, Al -- Al Needham * Scituate,MA,USA * Alwine@concentric.net >"The HoneyBee"-An Educational Software Program V1.0< Available at: Http://www.kuai.se/~beeman/ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 09:48:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Palm, Kevin R. (LLP)" Subject: Re: Getting started with TBH's Comments: To: "jwg6@cornell.edu" Joel, Thanks for the reply and the advice. I was trying to think of a way to get the honey out of the TBH combs, especially since I don't think it would work to try to run them through a conventional extractor. Your technique sounds like the answer (if a bit messy :-)). I also thought a TBH would be a good way to get some comb honey as well as extracted. My concern wasn't going out and buying an extractor since, as I said, I borrow my uncle's every year, rather that I would have to press the honey from the TBH combs like James Satterfield does. Since I don't own a cider press or anything like that, that would be a problem. If I follow your advice, that problem would be eliminated!! I'm getting anxious to look through the woodpile by my house and see what hive material I can scrounge up!! Thanks again, Kevin Palm Grafton, Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 11:02:46 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Stan Sandler Subject: Re: Magnetoreception in Bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Allen and all: >Something I read somewhere, long long ago: > >Bees tend to build their hive to correspond to the angle of >inclination of the lines of magnetic force -- more vertical nearer >the poles, and horizontal at the equator. Hence the Kenyan hive is >an equatorial hive design and may not be suited to the extremes of >north or south. > >True? Not true, Who knows? Discuss? What a researcher (can't find his article, but it's here and I can dig it up if desired) found was that swarms would start comb building using the same orientation as in the parent colony. (He tested it with good experimental procedure IMHO.) It makes sense, since organizing a colony to all start a job like that is quite a feat when there are no top bars. The article did not suggest to my recollection any orientation preference; only that the lines of force could be sensed. The research work was done in Brazil, but bees use magnetoreception at all latitudes and must normally compensate for the various inclinations of the field. Incidentally, the simplest organism that I know of using magnetoreception is a mud burrowing bacteria in the tropics. It uses the inclination of the magnetic field to orient up and down. It is so small that the tiny magnetic crystals in its body can actually move it. Noone knows yet how bees and other magnetoreceptive animals sense the orientation of their EXTREMELY tiny magnets. Have a nice day Stan P.S. Allen, if you want an idea discussed on the list you should remember that you have set your mailer reply default to yourself, and might change it back. I only caught it by accident before I sent the mail. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:26:51 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Commercial Beekeeping with TBHs? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > I was trying to think of a way > to get the honey out of the TBH combs, especially since I don't > think it would work to try to run them through a conventional > extractor. Before people start extracting and mushing vombs from tbhs. consider this: These combs should be *premium* virgin comb honey. Comb honey sells for double (at a minimum) the price for extracted. Moreover, tbh comb will have *no* manmade centre rib of pressed and processed wax, and this makes this comb better than virtually all comb sold in North America -- and likely the developed world. In Germany -- I am told by a skep beekeeper -- that combs *from skeps* sell for prices like $50 per pound. I should think these would qualify as a similar product, if not pass as actual 'skep' combs. Therefore, I reach two tentative conclusions: 1. An astute marketer could sell these combs for extremely high prices to gourmet and fashion food places -- or export into some European markets. Packaging and storage is the problem. They would have to be frozen. 2. Although cost of production is higher per unit, it would be possible to run a *commercial* beekeeping business using only these hives. Anyone???? Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art <http://www.internode.net/~allend/> ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 12:34:03 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Commercial Beekeeping wi REGARDING RE>Commercial Beekeeping with TBDs? Regarding comb honey production in tbh's, Allen Dick wrote: >1. An astute marketer could sell these combs for extremely high prices to gourmet and fashion food places -- or export into some European markets. Packaging and storage is the problem. They would have to be frozen. 2. Although cost of production is higher per unit, it would be possible to run a *commercial* beekeeping business using only these hives.< This is a very real possibility. Certain ethnic groups in my area (Detroit, Michigan), such as middle eastern Arabs, Persians, etc. greatly value pure comb honey, and desire to buy it in bulk (i.e., cut and pressed into 5 gallon pails). The comb is to them the absolute guarantee of purity, and they will gladly pay premium prices for it, while looking suspiciously at extracted honey. They would be especially impressed if they could see how the comb is directly cut off these top bars into the pails that they would purchase. This is not how I do honey, so I always have to turn them down, but I would love to have a few contacts in this general area to refer such customers to. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 12:20:39 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Winter Top-bar Hives/Commercial possibilities Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Allen and all. The big issue for top bar hive (tbh) use in the northern areas is "Can the bees winter over in top bar hives?" As I see it there are three things to note: First, there must be adequate food reserves, as usual. In a tbh that could mean 12-15 combs mostly full of honey. Secondly, the cluster must be able to use this food! Question is, will they move horizontally, or will they just eat what food is above them til they hit the top-bar, and then starve? Maybe we can facilitate horizontal migration "down the hive" by supplying communication holes through the combs, to maintain cluster integrity. This is something I will try next winter. Finally, ventilation is a requirement, so that moisture doesn't build up causing soggy (deadly) conditions and frost in the hive. Perhaps the top bars could be separated a tiny bit at certain intervals to allow for ventilation, and through ventilation provided above the bars. As I have related to some in the gang, I have overwintered top-bar type hives here with great success. However, they had upper stories of honey (& bee space between the bars) so the bees just moved upward as they normally do over winter. Commercial tbh beekeeping? Hey , the initial investment would be low. The comb honey would indeed be tops for the consumer, with the natural (thin) midrib, and more honey per volume of wax. Even with "thin super" foundation, comb honey from frames can be overly "waxy." Seems to me anyway. Regards, JWG ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 17:47:03 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Quimby Subject: Re: Winter Top-bar Hives/Commercial possibilities MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Mr. Govostes wrote: Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Winter Top-bar Hives/Commercial possibilities Comments: To: Joel Govostes MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Hi Allen and all. The big issue for top bar hive (tbh) use in the > northern areas is "Can the bees winter over in top bar hives?" Seems a natural for indoor wintering. Many winter singles indoors here in Western Canada. They are stacked up with only bottom entrances. Regards Allen W. Allen Dick, Beekeeper VE6CFK RR#1, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 Internet:dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net Honey. Bees, & Art <http://www.internode.net/~allend/> ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 13:37:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Palm, Kevin R. (LLP)" Subject: TBH - Longest thread??? Hey folks, Does the current Top Bar Hive topic qualify for the Longest Thread Award on BEE-L?? It's been going for 22 days with no sign of letting up!! Kevin Palm Grafton, Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 13:24:51 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Townsend Organization: TPLR Honey Farms Subject: Re: Desensitization MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=euc-kr Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Our question to you all is to send any comments about desensitation therapy, > are there any fellow-beekeepers who have experience with it ? Will; A number of years ago both my wife and oldest son developed a sensitivity to be stings. They both went for desensitation shots, took two years, and they have been fine with stings since. The only reaction to stings by either of them now is that my son tends to sneeze when ever he gets stung. Guess its better than a yell, actually rather humourous. > side-effects and succes-rate ? > No side-effects, 100% success, except for the sneezing. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 15:17:05 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Re: Wax moths In-Reply-To: <199611220946.JAA01840@saturn.ndirect.co.uk> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Fri, 22 Nov 1996, Joe Hemmens wrote: > Harry Sweet wrote - > > > >Joe Hemmens writes of an English product called "Certan" for wax moth > > >control. Unfortunately, I do not believe the product (or anything like it) > > >is registered for wax moth control in the United States. > > > > > >W. G. Miller > > >Gaithersburg, MD > > > > It can only be used in stored equipment - so > > why bother? Para-di-chloro (moth balls) work > > just fine and can be found at your local drug store. > Hi all..:) I had understood that Moth Balls are of no use with max moth..but after reading the above, I am confused. Clarification please?..:) @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @ Ian Watson @ @ iwatson@freenet.npiec.on.ca @ @ @ @ THREE BEES: @ @ Bach singer ,/// @ @ Bee keeper >8'III}- @ @ Bell ringer ',\\\ @ @ @ @ 4 hives, 2 years in Beekeeping @ @ St. Catharines, Canada @ @ "I BEE, therefore I am" @ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 15:53:36 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: TBH - Longest thread??? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I don't know -- maybe we need to find something more controversial(?). Even the queen excluder thing didn't raise this much attention. Oh, here's a suggestion: Why don't we just cut through the bull and just celebrate Christmas all year 'round? Things seem to be progressing that way. It wasn't even Halloween yet, and the mall stores were all decked out. TV for some time has been all gift ads and Xmas sales already. Seems to come earlier every year. More poignantly, anyone doing a good trade in honey/candle gift-packs, mail order, for instance? What do they include? Any suggestions? Thanks, JWG ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 13:55:03 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: The Christensens Subject: power comb filler Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Just a reply to Allen's comments about power comb fillers. We use normal 2:1 sugar syrup in our comb filler with no problems at all. Possibly different machines handle the syrup differently? Ours is from Kleefield in Manitoba. We were only using ours in the spring for nucs or packages and didn't notice any moisture problems. If there was any moisture I don't think it was excessive. The only real problems we ever ran into was the spray bars plugging. That was easily cured by being more careful handling the syrup. FWIW Leon C. P.S. Thanks for the welcome Eric. I've actually been up and running for awhile, just sitting back taking it all in. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:06:45 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Eyre Subject: Re: queen disks Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Does someone have the name and address of the company that sells the color >coded and numbered disks for identifying queens? I know it was posted some >time ago but I have been unable to locate the information. Hi David, We are the North American agents for Thornes and normally have these in stock. We are expecting a shipment shortly, and they are on our stocking list. The complete unit, ie. 5 sheets of colored discs, glue, and applicator retail at $33.35 US. If you wish to deal please advise. We would be pleased to add you to our mailing list!! Regards Dave....... **************************************************** * David Eyre 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, * * The Beeworks, Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1. * * beeworks@muskoka.net 705-326-7171 * * http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks * * Agents for: E H Thorne & B J Sherriff UK. * **************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:06:49 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Eyre Subject: Re: Wax moths Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Joe Hemmens writes of an English product called "Certan" for wax moth >control. Unfortunately, I do not believe the product (or anything like it) >is registered for wax moth control in the United States. We sell this item and it really works. It is the only true preventive biological larvaecide available for the control of wax moth. Will not harm you, your honey, or your bees. It needs no airing, unlike PDB is not picked up by the wax. As a preventative it is well worth the money. **************************************************** * David Eyre 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, * * The Beeworks, Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1. * * beeworks@muskoka.net 705-326-7171 * * http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks * * Agents for: E H Thorne & B J Sherriff UK. * **************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:01:30 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ed Levi Subject: Re: Magnetoreception in Bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Hi Allen and all: >>Something I read somewhere, long long ago: >> >>Bees tend to build their hive to correspond to the angle of >>inclination of the lines of magnetic force -- more vertical nearer >>the poles, and horizontal at the equator. Hence the Kenyan hive is >>an equatorial hive design and may not be suited to the extremes of >>north or south. >> I'm note sure how this relates but... I vaguely remember something about some bees taken on a space shuttle some years back. It only took them a few hours of confusion in a weightless environment before they got orientated enough to build comb in relatively straight and normal patterns. Seems like their magnetforceceptors would have been totally baffled as they rapidly raced around all lats and longs? Ed ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 14:41:11 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Whitney S. Cranshaw" Subject: Re: Wax moths Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I had understood that Moth Balls are of no use with wax moth..but after reading the above, I am confused. Clarification please?..:) Possibly the confusion is related to there being different types of "moth balls". What I find most commonly sold as moth balls is naphthalene. This is a moderately good insect repellent, horse---- as an insecticide, and would not control established insects. Paradichlorobenzene/PDB is most commonly sold around here as crystals, although "balls" are also sometimes available. It is a fairly effective fumigant insecticide used for control of many insects. I think it also has some repellent activity. Whitney Cranshaw wcransha@ceres.agsci.colostate.edu Colorado, USA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 12:40:59 +1100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Nick Wallingford Organization: Nat Beekeepers Assn of NZ Subject: Re: Wax moths MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > > > It can only be used in stored equipment - so > > > why bother? Para-di-chloro (moth balls) work > > > just fine and can be found at your local drug store. > I had understood that Moth Balls are of no use with max moth..but after > reading the above, I am confused. > Clarification please?..:) Most commercial mothballs (the ones that aren't still attached to the moths) contain some form of napthenate, I believe. While a useful additive for killing moths in your closet, I think it is this that causes problems when used in a beekeeping context. So the advice I've always given is make sure what you are using is 'straight' paradichlorobenzoate (or however you spell it). (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@wave.co.nz (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz NZ Beekeeping http://www.wave.co.nz/pages/nickw/nzbkpg.htm ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 19:16:48 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Michael L. Wallace" Subject: Re: processing propolis Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Dear Bee-Listers, I was very pleased to read all the posts and see all the recent interest in propolis, as that is a subject dear to my heart. About a year ago, for those of you who have joined since then, I posted a series of three posts about propolis. Over the last year I have learned a great deal more about propolis. Recently (Nov. 7-9), at the annual convention of the Texas Beekeeping Association, I gave a clinic on propolis. I produced a thirteen page handout on the subject and it does include answers to all of the questions I have seen posed on this list. There is too much information to include in a post, but I can send anyone a copy. The topics include What Is Propolis, Why Propolis, Propolis: More Than "Bee Boogers", How To Trap Propolis, How To Process Propolis, The Propolis Market, and Propolis Recipes (which includes tincture, extract and salve recipes). The handout cost me $1.00 each to produce and there would be postage, in the amount of $0.55, to send it, so I would appreciate a donation of $1.55, if you want the handout. If you are interested, e-mail me at my e-mail address and I will e-mail my snail-mail address. If I can be of assistance to answer any questions, I am at everyone's disposal. Cheers, Mike Wallace Sar Shalom Apiary McKinney, Texas USA "Out of the heart, the mouth speaks."