Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9702B" To: "W. Allen Dick" Resent-From: Resent-Date: Wed, 12 Mar 97 18:58:50 EST Resent-To: allend@mail1.internode.net Message-Id: <02031504906957@systronix.net> ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 07:58:40 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Trevor Weatherhead Subject: Bee joke Where do baby bees sleep? In an apiary-cot (apricot) Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 10:54:11 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Beeworks Subject: Re: Mailer MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Some months ago there was a series of posts looking for a better mailer. At the time I reported on Pegasus and how good it is. There is now an updated version, 2.5. They have now included a tutorial for those not so computer literate. ftp://risc.ua.edu/pub/network/pegasus You can browse on the above link to see the directory or the below link to get the file. ftp://risc.ua.edu/pub/network/pegasus/winpm252.exe this is for Windows 3.1 all the other configurations are there, Win 95, Macs plus others.Spell check, filters, distribution lists,clickable links,encryption, the advantages are endless. Try it you might be pleasantly suprised. ********************************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 13:48:04 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Bee Jokes My wife's contribution: How does the Queen Bee communicate with the rest of the hive? She uses her cell phone! :-) Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program About Honey Bees With A Superb Slide Show-Version 2.0 (c) 1997 Download From: http://www.kuai.se/~beeman ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 10:56:57 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Herman Winter Subject: Varroa and oils of Laminaceae Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Has anyone had any experience/success using oil extracts of plants from the Family Laminaceae as a substitute for using Apistan strips? Here in the states some people have been experimenting with oils from Thyme, wintergreen, spearmint, and a few other oils and oil combinations as an attempt to lessen the effects that varroa have on the hives. Any information on this would be very much appreciated. Thank you Herman ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 15:59:06 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: Bee Jokes In-Reply-To: <19970208.134845.3366.0.awneedham@juno.com> from "Albert W Needham" at Feb 8, 97 01:48:04 pm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey, A modern twist, good contribution. Jerry ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1997 19:22:26 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dennis and Marian Subject: Re: used equipment recommendations In-Reply-To: <199702061640.LAA30403@cliff.nortel.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone know if lye might be used? If so, how? This might be a cheeper alternative where wax is not being saved. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 21:16:39 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Bee Jokes Jerry: >A modern twist, good contribution. Funny, one guy sent me a message saying that "Jerry" was looking for kid's jokes. I replied that yes, I knew that, and of course that joke (assuming you were referring to the "Queen Joke"), was not meant for kids. Little history: That joke was invented by my wife the other eve at the supper table. I told her I was going to put it up on BEE-L. Her response - Don't give me credit for it! > Al: By the time I jump to Sweden then to your ftp site, things are > getting downright sluggish. Have you thought about a U.S. ftp site? It is not "my site". It is all offered from P-O's ftp. If you want to access his ftp more directly, go to: ftp://ftp.kuai.se/pub/beekeeping (I think I recalled that correctly) and you will see it there. Well, I know that P-O's site can be sluggish at times. I do not have a site myself. Of course, you know that anyone is free to offer it on their own site without asking myself or P-O. Txt inside program states that. One of the sites in England put it up on their site. If you are possibly thinking of offering it on your site, you are certainly most welcome to do so and do not need to ask. The HoneyBee Ver 1.0 is more designed for kids - the little kid within myself just sort of got involved. Ver 2.0 is a more mature program. BTW, the friend of mine up in Libby was interested in selling a Maxant 4-frame extractor, I am sure in excellent condition. He is no longer into Bees. I referred him to you, thinking you must know a bunch of local beekeepers. I do not know if he ever got in touch with you. Al --- Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program About Honey Bees With A Superb Slide Show-Version 2.0 (c) 1997 Download From: http://www.kuai.se/~beeman ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:01:51 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert Watson Subject: Observation Hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello List Gerry V., and others have been discussing observation hives on the Apis-L, but a post indicated that it was off-topic...and should be discussed on Bee-L. No one has brought the topic here , so I shall do so. I have ordered an observation hive, from our local Dadant supplier. I asked him to get me a normal deep super + honey super above type of observation hive. I asked for the small type because I didn't want something very tall in my dining room (where I intend to place it.) Now I wonder if I should have gone for something with 2 or three deep frames instead...it is apparently difficult to manage this small an observation hive. What is required to do this effectively?...any help? thanks! Regards, Rob Robert C.L. Watson rwatson1@freenet.npiec.on.ca pipe organ technician organist - choirmaster early woodwind player hobby beekeeper homebrewer tenor ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 23:52:55 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerry Visel Subject: Re: Observation Hives Robert, I am guilty of just hitting "Reply" and not noticing that it went to Apis-L and not Bee-L. I'm subscribed to both. With a two (or even three) frame observation hive, the space is unnaturally small for a normal colony, so be prepared to swap out full frames of brood and put in empty foundation in the summer. They will draw it out pronto! If you don't, they will abscond and leave it empty. (Plan your vacations...) Other than that, I wish I had one in my dining room. Then I could see it every day and know what the field hives are into. (The obs hive I work is at a forest preserve about 1/2 mile from here, and I don't stop by every day.) As long as you are watching it that often, the small size can be monitored and corrections made as required. It will happen more often than a regular hive which has "buffer space" in extra combs. If she gets busy, she can fill a frame in just a few days. Have a field hive that you can move brood into. (A friend's field hives kept swarming because he swapped in so much extra brood from an obs hive, and he couldn't figure out why!) Good Luck! Gerry and the other Visels at Visel7@juno.com Winnebago, Illinois, USA On Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:01:51 -0500 Robert Watson writes: >Hello List >Gerry V., and others have been discussing observation hives on the >Apis-L, but a post indicated that it was off-topic...and should be >discussed on Bee-L. >No one has brought the topic here , so I shall do so. >I have ordered an observation hive, from our local Dadant supplier. >I asked him to get me a normal deep super + honey super above type of >observation hive. >I asked for the small type because I didn't want something very tall >in my >dining room (where I intend to place it.) >Now I wonder if I should have gone for something with 2 or three deep >frames instead...it is apparently difficult to manage this small an >observation hive. >What is required to do this effectively?...any help? >thanks! > >Regards, >Rob > > >Robert C.L. Watson >rwatson1@freenet.npiec.on.ca >pipe organ technician organist - choirmaster early woodwind >player >hobby beekeeper homebrewer tenor > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 22:28:34 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: Re: Importation Alert MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following report is reprinted with permission from the U C apiary newsletter produced by Eric Mussen. Thank you Eric This needs US beekeeper input so listen up and pay attention. Walter Patton "A second federal government representative, Bob Flanders from USDA/APHIS Risk Assessment - Organism Permitting, attended the meeting to tell us that changes are likely in the federal "Bee Act." The current act is basically a prohibition to importing anything involving live bees and reproductive products into the U.S. USDA researchers and their cooperators were the only exceptions. The GATT agreements are forcing the issue, because they require open trade unless there is a demonstrable threat from an imported item. New Zealand, Australia, and other European countries have been knocking on our door for years to allow their stocks to come here. Obviously, this will not be a reciprocal agreement with countries that do not have tracheal or Varroa mites. Apparently, the new approach(under the Federal Advisory Committee Act) will involve the formulation of a Technical Advisory Group (TAG) that would decide who is allowed to import what, and from where. This still would open the borders only for "research" imports. Exotic queen and/or semen importations would have to arrive through an approved quarantine facility, be reared under close scrutiny, then released following review of data by the TAG. Additionally, the importations would have to be done in compliance with the National Environmental Policy Act, which requires acceptable Environmental Assessment and Environmental Impact Statements. Violators would receive more than a slap on the hand - a $10,000 per queen fine is being discussed. Commercial stock importations from the previously mentioned countries, plus Canada and Mexico, would be allowed through a permit system. Using the FAO guidelines (Risk Assessment Process), the country of origin would be assessed. If no threat is perceived, and the importer adequately justifies the need for importation, the permit would be issued. If you would like to share your opinions on this subject with Bob, don't wait around. Bob intends to formulate and have reviewed the new regulations in half a year, publish them in the Federal Register (for comment) in August, and implemented as a new law by the end of 1997. Frequently, what is published in the Federal Register is what persists to law. So, Contact Bob, now, if you wish to share your ideas on this topic: (301) 734-8896 [FAX (301) 734-8700] or mail to PPQ Permit Unit, 4700 River Road, Unit 133, Riverdale, MD 20737-1228." ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:18:06 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James Amrine Subject: Re: Varroa and oils of Laminaceae Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 10:56 AM 2/9/97 -0700, you wrote: >Has anyone had any experience/success using oil extracts of >plants from the Family Laminaceae as a substitute for using >Apistan strips? > >Here in the states some people have been experimenting with >oils from Thyme, wintergreen, spearmint, and a few other oils >and oil combinations as an attempt to lessen the effects that >varroa have on the hives. > >Any information on this would be very much appreciated. > >Thank you >Herman Dear Herman, There is no family, Laminaceae. I believe you are referring to the Lamiaceae which is the current recognized name for the older name, Labiatae, or mint family. Thus peppermint, spearmint, catnip, patchouli, etc., are all members of the Lamiaceae. Please see our web page regarding the use of essential oils for mite control. Sincerely, Prof. Jim Amrine Division of Plant & Soil Sciences P. O. Box 6108, West Virginia University Morgantown, WV 26506-6108 <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <> Telephone: 304-293-6023 <> <> Fax: 304-293-2960 <> <> web: http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/varroa.htm <> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 07:43:12 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Bee Jokes Whoops, sorry folks, think I accidentally sent a private message to the whole list. Al ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 09:42:11 -0500 Reply-To: Daniel G Jones Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Daniel G Jones Subject: [Beginner] How many hives? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Greetings, I've read the books and looked over the catalogs. I have a couple of good sites picked out on my property. I think I have a handle on the prophtlactic treatments needed to control mites, noseam, and foulbrood. There is a lot of what should be good forage here. Now, I still have a couple of questions... 1.) How many hives? The books all imply that it should be 2 or more. I can afford up to 5. I don't want to get in over my head, but I am serious about it. 2.) What are the advantages of the ARS-Y-C-1 Carniolan Hybrid queens vs. the Italians (Walter T. Kelley) Thanks in advance! Dan Jones dgj+@pitt.edu Phone: 1.412.624.2189 Mill Run, PA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 17:59:38 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Atkinson Subject: E.H.Thorne LTD Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I need the e-mail address of E.H.Thorne Ltd. Wragby-Lincoln, England. They deal in Beekeeper Supplies. Any help would be greatly appreciated ! Regards, John Atkinson Harvard,MA USA atkin@atkin.ultranet.com. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 21:04:33 -0600 Reply-To: smills@wichita.fn.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Stephen & Colleen Mills Subject: Re: used equipment recommendations MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dennis and Marian wrote: > > Does anyone know if lye might be used? If so, how? This might be a cheeper > alternative where wax is not being saved. I purchaced some used equipment last year and have been cleaning it up, I have an outdoor propane burner that I use for beer and mead brewing so i took a galvanized wash tub filled it with about 6 gal of water and a can of red devil lye and brought it to a boil being careful to work upwind and using chemical handling rubber gloves I imersed the dirty frames in the boiling lye water and it realy did a fine job of cleaning off the dead wax and proplis there were numerious waxmoth larva in the wood that I had to scrape out of burrow, but this method works well. However, it MUST BE DONE OUTSIDE, AND EXTREAM CARE MUST, MUST BE TAKEN TO AVOID THE CORROSIVE FUMES. And the equipment must be completely rinsed in clean water. In short it was one hell of a job, and I'm not sure that the monitary savings was worth the effort. Stephen Mills Mulvane Ks ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 09:19:15 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Dave Green, Eastern Pollinator Newsletter" Subject: Re: Cleaning used equipment In a message dated 97-02-06 14:18:12 EST, aarcher@wnmc.net (aarcher) writes: << What is an appropriate method of cleaning up the hive bodies and supers insuring that I don't spread disease to my new package bees? Since we are limited in re$ources here and about 2 hours from the nearest village, chemicals (which I'm not too fond of anyway) are not easy to find and acquire. I live in a riparian area on the Gila river and am cautious of any unnatural residues which chemicals can leave behind. I've heard fire can be used effectively to remove most disease problems, but is there a specific way to use fire reasonably. e.g.- Can I hold and rotate the equipment over an open flame to sterilize? Is there a minimum time or minimum heat requirement to do the job? What about using solar heating in or under plastic sheeting? Would temperatures reach a high enough level? How long would be required to do the job thouroughly? >> If the equipment was known to not have American foulbrood, I'd just use it. Be sure to use a couple preventative treatments of terramycin each year, and watch for any problems with AFB. If you know it did, or if you aren't sure, fire is a good idea. Solar heat would not kill foulbrood spores. You might keep in mind that fouldbrood spores are everywhere, and bees normally resist the infection, unless they are genetically weak, or there is an overwhelming source of infection. The unwashed jar of honey tossed into the dumpster has plenty of spores. Your efforts to sanitize are used to reduce the exposure. You cannot remove every spore. Commercial beekeepers have a quick and simple way to char supers. Get a round pointed shovel and a flat workspace away from anything that could catch fire, such as a concrete or asphalt pad. Scrape or knock off any propolis or burr comb that is obvious. Stack up the supers no higher than you can reach, and put a flat piece of disposable plywood over the top, except leave a tiny crack. You have created a chimney. Have some water buckets or a fire extinguisher handy by, just in case. Now drop a paper towel, soaked with gas down your chimney, and follow with a lighted match. Be careful! If you are looking down when it ignites, you won't have any eyebrows, or worse. Take the shovel tip and wedge it under the bottom super corner. You can lift it up slightly to let in air, and really get the fire going. Set it down and the fire dies back. (With the shovel) move the top carefully back to close off the top, and the fire will go out. It's easy and quick. You can use the shovel created draft to burn them just enough to char off the wax and propolis from the interior, but not burn through the boxes. If they fall, or you accidently knock off the cover, you'll have wood igniting, and you'll probably burn through some boxes, so a little finesse is required, but it's not hard. The slow way, more expensive, and just as risky, is to use a propane torch to clean them up. You'll have to scorch all inner surfaces. This is outdoor activity. Don't try this in your garage or warehouse. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Varietal Honeys and Gift Sets http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 12:00:41 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Beeworks Subject: Re: Observation Hives In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 9 Feb 97 at 22:01, Robert Watson wrote: Observation Hives > No one has brought the topic here , so I shall do so. > I have ordered an observation hive, from our local Dadant supplier. > Now I wonder if I should have gone for something with 2 or three deep > frames instead...it is apparently difficult to manage this small an > observation hive. > What is required to do this effectively?...any help? For those interested we sell a larger observation hive, 4 frames, shutters, and it revolves for viewing both sides. For more information, please take your enquiries of list, to me direct. ********************************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 10:07:48 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: aarcher Subject: Re: Cleaning used equipment MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you. ---------- > From: Dave Green, Eastern Pollinator Newsletter > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Cleaning used equipment > Date: Monday, February 10, 1997 7:19 AM > > In a message dated 97-02-06 14:18:12 EST, aarcher@wnmc.net (aarcher) writes: > > << What is an appropriate method of cleaning up the hive bodies and supers > insuring that I don't spread disease to my new package bees? Since we are > limited in re$ources here and about 2 hours from the nearest village, > chemicals (which I'm not too fond of anyway) are not easy to find and > acquire. I live in a riparian area on the Gila river and am cautious of > any unnatural residues which chemicals can leave behind. I've heard fire > can be used effectively to remove most disease problems, but is there a > specific way to use fire reasonably. e.g.- Can I hold and rotate the > equipment over an open flame to sterilize? Is there a minimum time or > minimum heat requirement to do the job? What about using solar heating in > or under plastic sheeting? Would temperatures reach a high enough level? > How long would be required to do the job thouroughly? >> > > If the equipment was known to not have American foulbrood, I'd just use > it. Be sure to use a couple preventative treatments of terramycin each year, > and watch for any problems with AFB. > > If you know it did, or if you aren't sure, fire is a good idea. Solar > heat would not kill foulbrood spores. > > You might keep in mind that fouldbrood spores are everywhere, and bees > normally resist the infection, unless they are genetically weak, or there is > an overwhelming source of infection. The unwashed jar of honey tossed into > the dumpster has plenty of spores. Your efforts to sanitize are used to > reduce the exposure. You cannot remove every spore. > > Commercial beekeepers have a quick and simple way to char supers. Get a > round pointed shovel and a flat workspace away from anything that could catch > fire, such as a concrete or asphalt pad. Scrape or knock off any propolis or > burr comb that is obvious. Stack up the supers no higher than you can reach, > and put a flat piece of disposable plywood over the top, except leave a tiny > crack. You have created a chimney. Have some water buckets or a fire > extinguisher handy by, just in case. > > Now drop a paper towel, soaked with gas down your chimney, and follow with > a lighted match. Be careful! If you are looking down when it ignites, > you won't have any eyebrows, or worse. > > Take the shovel tip and wedge it under the bottom super corner. You can > lift it up slightly to let in air, and really get the fire going. Set it down > and the fire dies back. (With the shovel) move the top carefully back to > close off the top, and the fire will go out. > > It's easy and quick. You can use the shovel created draft to burn them > just enough to char off the wax and propolis from the interior, but not burn > through the boxes. > > If they fall, or you accidently knock off the cover, you'll have wood > igniting, and you'll probably burn through some boxes, so a little finesse is > required, but it's not hard. > > The slow way, more expensive, and just as risky, is to use a propane torch > to clean them up. You'll have to scorch all inner surfaces. This is outdoor > activity. Don't try this in your garage or warehouse. > > Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC > 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) > > Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green > http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html > > Jan's Sweetness and Light Varietal Honeys and Gift Sets > http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 10:11:41 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: Observation Hives In-Reply-To: from "Robert Watson" at Feb 9, 97 10:01:51 pm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi: Norman Gary published a nice set of diagrams for a larger observation hive. The Dadant unit and other small hives are hard to manage and to keep from swarming. 2-frames wasn't much better, although these units are easy to take to schools, fairs, etc. For year round obervations, I prefer 3 or 4 frames. One mistake that I made was setting the glass into a rabbit. Bad idea, better seal to keep bees in, but they glued it in so tight that you couldn't get it out without breaking. I follow Norm's idea, surface mount the glass and hold it in place with mirror clips. Then you can cut around the glass with a sharp knife, if needed, to free the glass. Be sure to incorporate an easy to insert plug for the entrance if you keep the hive indoors. When you do need to replace a frames, remove queen cells, etc. you can readily take it outdoors to work. I think Barry Birney has some diagrams for the style hive that Norm produced. Somewhere buried deep, I have the diagrams, but not sure where I put them. Cheers Jerry Bromenshenk ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:22:10 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIDNITEBEE Subject: Re: E.H.Thorne LTD MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit E.H.THORNE Wragby,Lincoln,LN3 5LA TEL.01673 858555 FAX.01673 857004 Email.thorne@dial.pipex.com http://www.thorne.co.uk Also,the North American dealer: Bee Works email-beeworks@muskoka.net tel./fax:705-326-7171 Forgot their web site location:use search engine to find site Midnitebee(Herb) ---------- > From: John Atkinson > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: E.H.Thorne LTD > Date: Saturday, February 08, 1997 5:59 PM > > I need the e-mail address of E.H.Thorne Ltd. Wragby-Lincoln, England. They deal in Beekeeper Supplies. Any help would be greatly appreciated ! > > Regards, > John Atkinson > Harvard,MA USA > atkin@atkin.ultranet.com. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:38:15 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert Watson Subject: Pure Island Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello List A friend of mine brought me a small jar of honey from Dutch West Indies. The label says" A real taste of the Caribbean "Pure Island Honey "An essence of tropical flowers and Caribbean sunshine - "fit for a Queen "Distributed by Lord & Hunter, St. Maarten, Dutch West "Indies" ...tastes like molasses to me! Am I wrong?...Do some of these honies actually taste like treacle? Or is it likely to be adulterated? thanks, Rob Robert C.L. Watson rwatson1@freenet.npiec.on.ca pipe organ technician organist - choirmaster early woodwind player hobby beekeeper homebrewer tenor ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 13:49:22 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: RICHARD BARNES Subject: Fruit Juices Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Ok guys here is the scoop. My father just found about 5 gallons(approx. 20 liters) of apple juice in his garage from the 1995 season. The apple juice is still sealed in the jars. The juice was heated and jars steralized prior to sealing. No chemicals or preservatives have been added to the juice. The only filtering was through a cheese cloth as the juice came out of the press. We opened one of the pint jars and the juice did not smell fermented and I took a small taste and it seemed OK. He still has juice from the 96 season so we wanted to do something different with this 95 juice. The juice is in standard canning jars--quarts and pints. There is about 0.25 inches (0.6 cm) of sediment on the bottom of the jars. Can I mix this 1:2 with sugar for feeding the bees? Should I seperate out the solids or is this good for the bees? Comments Richard Barnes rbarnes@halnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:06:24 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bonnie Pierson Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey Robert, I purchased a 12 oz. bear from: Hawaiian Gold Honey, "Natural Mountain Blossom" that tasted like molasses, also. I think that they must feed the bees the leftovers from the sugarcane processing !!! Not too nice . Bonnie Pierson Bonbee@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 00:18:49 +1300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Nick Wallingford Organization: Bay of Plenty Polytechnic Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > that tasted like molasses, also. I think that they must feed the bees the > leftovers from the sugarcane processing !!! Not too nice . Without being able to taste it, I would suggest that the common theme here is probably coconut honey. From my time in Tonga, I found it to be high-moisture (probably more to do with the climate than the source...), dark and strong flavoured. It was always a real pleasure to find some frames that weren't 'flavoured' by it, but with coconut palms just about everywhere, that wasn't often... (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@wave.co.nz (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz NZ Beekeeping http://www.wave.co.nz/pages/nickw/nzbkpg.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:14:06 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bently Durant Subject: Re: E.H.Thorne LTD MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I cannot fing it on there cataloge. Just go to there websight http:/www.thorne.co.uk or call o1673 858555 or fax 01673 857004 or better yet, order from beeworks in canada (they supply thorn products for america) just mail beeworks@muskoka.net ...,,,...,,,~~~~~`````,,,...,,,...,,,~~~~~`````~~~~~~````` Why don't you join me in dyslexia land. A lend weair evey thimg is spelled ront. I think that I know everything because I know every thing that I learned and what I havent learned I don't know about :^) Bently Durant bently@hcn.hcnews.com ...,,,...,,,~~~~~`````,,,...,,,...,,,~~~~~`````~~~~~~````` ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 20:54:58 -0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom & Carol Elliott Organization: Home Subject: Bee Jokes MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit These came from my brothers fevered imagination as he suffered with the flu down in the California desert. 1. What singing group was famous throughout the hives during the sixties? Peter, Pollen, Mary 2. Sign found inside beehive: "The surgeon general warns that smoking is hazardous to your honey." - - - - - - - - - - - - "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 17:34:00 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Walton Subject: Re: E.H.Thorne LTD In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 In article , John Atkinson writes >I need the e-mail address of E.H.Thorne Ltd. Wragby-Lincoln, England. They deal >in Beekeeper Supplies. Any help would be greatly appreciated ! > Thorne@dial.pipex.com -- Paul Walton Email : Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk Toddington, Bedfordshire, England. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Feb 1997 21:05:06 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Bob St. John" Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey In-Reply-To: <970210170541_1213848085@emout01.mail.aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Mon, 10 Feb 1997, Bonnie Pierson wrote: >Robert, > >I purchased a 12 oz. bear from: > > Hawaiian Gold Honey, "Natural Mountain Blossom" > >that tasted like molasses, also. I think that they must feed the bees the >leftovers from the sugarcane processing !!! Not too nice . > >Bonnie Pierson >Bonbee@aol.com > Aloha; I feel confident that the principal floral source of the honey you bought is macadamia trees.If you had purchased Puna Bees Lehua you would have acquired a distinctive and fine flavored white honey. The sugarcane is about gone here so the workers are going to keep bees acccording to Walter Patton. The Christmas berry honey is also very good. It does not crystalize as soon as the Lehua which is from the Ohia tree and is usually solid in a week or two. The bees will completely ignore the nectar from the macadamia if there is any Lehua available and they really know honey. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 17:58:16 +1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mauricio Montes Castillo Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 17:06 10/02/97 -0500, you wrote: >Robert, > >I purchased a 12 oz. bear from: > Hawaiian Gold Honey, "Natural Mountain Blossom" >that tasted like molasses, also. I think that they must feed the bees the >leftovers from the sugarcane processing !!! Not too nice . This may not be the case. Specially in tropical/subtropical places like Hawaii. I used to keep my bees near sugar-cane fields a while ago. I noticed that the bees love to forage on the cane stumps that are left after the cane is burnt and slashed. A lot of sweet sap still can come out of there. It is good for the bees, although is rich in minerals that may cause them digestive problems. People may get a fine if cought selling this thing as real honey. Greetings from Brisbane (today was 37 C and 90% humidity...) Mauricio :) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 00:26:19 -0800 Reply-To: mwr@hotcity.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Urgent! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just received the following in a post to another list I subscribe to. If it's really true, the FCC needs to get the message loud and clear from ALL of us! Michael Reddell > I just heard that Bell South has proposed to the FCC a petition to cause >immediate imposition of a per minute charge for ALL INTERNET USAGE! This >would mean "... that most Internet Service Providers, including giants such >as AOL, MCI, and Sprint would lose millions of customers who would not be >willing to pay a penny a minute or more for Internet Access, and many if not >all small ISP's would be forced out of business altogether. Of course since >the Bell Companies are now Internet Service Providers themselves, THEY would >not have to pay per minute charges, since they own the lines." Nice Monopoly, >huh? This is intolerable, and cannot go unchallenged. The FCC has posted an >email address for comments, etc. The address is: isp@fcc.gov, which they have >generously allowed until Feb. 13th for comments. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:30:20 CST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vladimir Ptacek BEE-L NOMAIL ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:14:40 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Dr. Henry H. Smith" Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey In-Reply-To: <97Feb11.123314nzdt.34562@gateway.boppoly.ac.nz> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Greetings: I have been following the discussion on "island honey". Just like any other places where bees are kept and honey is harvested (farms of different types, urban environments, etc), islands differ from each other. The sources of honey in St. Marten, Tonga, Jamaica, Hawaii etc varies according to season, location and so forth just like anywhere else though I would admit perhaps not to as great a degree. The flavor of the honey can occur (just like anywhere else) due to what the bees choose to forage on and not only because the bees were fed with various supplements or (lets hope not!) the honey adulterated and passed off as naturally occuring. I would welcome anyone visiting St. Thomas, USVI to give me a call before you get here and sample the honey from my hives. I do not feed my bees and I would be interested in knowing what you think about the flavor of the honey. I might add that the demand for local honey is very high. It is favored over the honey that is brought in. There is very, very little commercial beekeeping here and the few hobbyist like myself tend to share the produce from our hives with friends and neighbors. H. Smith ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:42:08 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey On Tue, 11 Feb 1997 09:14:40 -0400 "Dr. Henry H. Smith" writes: >Greetings:....etc. Out of curiousity Doc, what is the T & V mite situation on your island? Thanks, Al ---- Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program About Honey Bees With A Superb Slide Show-Version 2.0 (c) 1997 Download From: http://www.kuai.se/~beeman ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 10:16:43 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Dr. Henry H. Smith" Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey In-Reply-To: <19970211.084246.3806.1.awneedham@juno.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Tue, 11 Feb 1997, Albert W Needham wrote: > > Out of curiousity Doc, what is the T & V mite situation on your island? > So far we have had no problems with mites that I know of (famous last words?). Bees can only be imported with permission from USDA. Of course there is always the threat of bees coming in via shiiping containers and other means from elsewhere. Africanized bees have been found in nearby St. Croix but none confirmed in St. Thomas yet. H. Smith ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 07:26:05 -0500 Reply-To: BEE-L@cnsibm.albany.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Excerpts from BEE-L Organization: BestOfBee@systronix.net Subject: How to Reduce Your Email MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT For those who wish to reduce email flow from BEE-L, yet still receive BEE-L, there are several options: 1. One is to change the subscription option to BEE-L to DIGEST by sending email to LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU saying SET BEE-L DIGEST 2. The other option is to send email to LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU saying SET BEE-L NOMAIL, and at the same time sending email to HoneyBee@systronix.net, saying JOIN BESTOFBEE you@whatever.com (where 'you@whatever.com' is your the email address to which you want the list to be sent). The first option -- digest -- will get you only one message per day from BEE-L, with *all* the day's messages in it. The second option -- subscribing to Best of Bee -- will bring you only selected and edited posts from BEE-L, a reduction of 10% to 100% on any given day. Best of Bee is also available in digest form by sending email to HoneyBee@systronix.net, saying DIGEST BESTOFBEE you@whatever.com For more information, send email to bees@systronix.net, saying SEND BESTBEE in the subject line. You will receive a text file in return. For those who want to know the selection and editorial policies of Best of Bee, send email to bees@systronix.net, saying SEND CRITERIA in the subject line. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 08:37:48 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 5 Feb 1997 to 6 Feb 1997 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 12:29 PM 07/02/97 -0800, you wrote: > Re. Formic Acid Tolerance Exemption > Hello Paul. This is a well thought out voice of reason re Formic acid. However, you scare me when you suggest that ordinary prescription glasses are sufficient protection. This FA is nasty stuff - When I first started using it I read several safety sheets. One I remember was from Fischer Scientific. You might want to get some of these. Your messge below makes it appear to be somewhat benign while I am afraid of the product. > Natural occurance does not mean it is safe! At 65% (here in Canada we > have decided against 85% because of its hazardous nature) this product > can be handled effectively and safely, providing one uses common sense > and basic safety precautions are taken. (Prescription glasses or basic > safety glasses offer sufficient eye protection in the field. Rubber > gloves are needed and of course, always stand upwind). Eric Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 14:58:52 GMT Reply-To: Tim_Sterrett@westtown.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Sterrett Organization: Westtown School Subject: Re: Fruit Juices Can I mix fruit juice 1:2 with sugar for feeding the bees? Nope. Mix the sugar with water. Tim Tim Sterrett Westtown, (Southeastern) Pennsylvania, USA tim_sterrett@westtown.edu ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 12:20:28 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Fruit Juices MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT If you're looking for something to do with the apple juice from the '95 squeezin's, might I suggest cyser (apple cider mead)? Two taken from the Mead Makers Home Page and the last a combination of the first two. Cyser -- Mead with Apples! 1. de-Cyser. Apple Mead-pagne Source: John (The Coyote) Wyllie (SLK6P@cc.usu.edu) * Ingredients: 4 gal Fresh pressed cider (from an orchard) 5 lbs Honey (used local clover/alfalfa) 1 tsp acid blend Handful chopped raisins, or 1/4 tsp grape tannin 1 Tbsp yeast nutrient Irish moss (or other clarifier) 2 tsp Pectic Enzyme 4 campden tables Epernay Yeast (or champagne) * Procedure: Pour the cider to a sterilized 5 gal carboy. Allow it to splash to aerate. Treat overnight with campden tablets. Crush and predissolve. Add the raisins to the carboy. Next day heat the honey in < 1 gallon of water (160 deg 1 hr, or boil if you choose). Add all other ingredients to the syrup. Add to the fermenter. Use some of the treated juice to hydrate the yeast, and pitch the starter after it bubbles. After a few weeks, rack to a secondary. Add more finings if needed (isinglass is good). Top up with juice, or honey syrup. I've generally liked to let cysers, and ciders age for a pretty long time. Most have been in fermenters for at least 4 months. You can bottle still, or sparkling. Use 1/2 to 3/4 cup corn sugar and champagne bottles for a nice sparkle. These have taken a long time to gain a good bubble level. They have been stored cold (55). But well worth the wait! * Comments: A potent and pleasing fruity wine. Once mature, a clear, bubbly champagne-like mead. My dad really en- joyed this one, and he usually drinks nicer wines. I was flattered. He kept grabbing the bottle at dinner! :) If you rack several times you can eliminate most of the sediment, and only have a fine layer in the bot- tle. I prefer to keep the priming down, because they seem to continue fermenting slowly for a long time. I've had a batch carbonate w/o priming! So much for a still wine! You could stabilize and sweeten to taste if you choose. Bottling with teas is a nice addition. I've used cinnamon, but I'd bet ginger, or a tad of clove would be nice. * Specifics: OG: ~1.070 Will vary depending on source of cider. FG: 1.000. 2. Dangerous Cyser Source: Chuck Cox (chuck@synchro.com) Mead Lover's Digest #5, 1 October 1992 * Ingredients (7 gallons): 10 lb clover honey 10 lb wildflower honey 5+ gallons cider 6 campden tablets (optional) Ale Yeast * Procedure: Mix everything except the yeast. Let sit in loosely covered fermenter for 24 hours. Add yeast. Rack to secondary when fermentation slows. Rack to keg when still. Force carbonate if desired. Condition for as long as you can stand it. Drink liberally. Fall over. * Comments: These days I am not adding the Campden tablets. That step is optional. 3. MyCy Ser Source: Combine the above two recipes * Ingredients (5 gallons): 5 qt. honey 4 gallons cider Handful chopped raisins, or 1/4 tsp grape tannin Cinnamon Stick(s) to taste 1 tsp Cardamom 1 tsp acid blend 4 campden tablets (optional) 1 Tbsp yeast nutrient Irish moss (or other clarifier) 2 tsp Pectic Enzyme Dry Champagne Yeast * Procedure: Rehydrate yeast in sterile apple juice to make a starter solution. Pour 3 gallons of the cider into a sanitized 6+ gal carboy. Allow it to splash to aerate. Treat overnight with crushed and predissolved campden tablets. Next day: Add the raisins to the carboy. Mix spices, honey and the remaining gallon of cider and bring to a boil. Skim to remove scum and cinnamon stick. Add all other ingredients to the syrup and add to the fermenter. Pitch starter when cool. After a few weeks, rack to a secondary. Add more finings if needed (isinglass is good). Top up with juice, or honey syrup. * Comments: Nice blend of spices and apples, nicly sweetened by the honey. VERY popular with the friends! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I mead! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Feb 1997 15:14:23 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gunnar Thygesen Organization: Micro Computer User Group Subject: Herpes zoster, shingles - Apitherapy? From: gunnar@mcug.ping.dk (Gunnar Thygesen) To: bee-l@cnsibm.albany.edu My old brother suffers terribly from shingles around his waist. Any cure or alleviation from apitherapy? Kinds regards Gunnar --- Terminate 4.00/Pro -- |Fidonet: Gunnar Thygesen 2:235/15.32 |Internet: gunnar@mcug.ping.dk | | Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 03:06:10 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIDNITEBEE Subject: bees,nucs,splits MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/ Greetings! It's snowing in Maine.Feed the bees yesterday and everything looks good.Knock on wood!! I have added a new link.This new link is about package bees,nucs and divisions/splits.The link is called "Bee Increase Methods". Midnitebee(Herb) ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 19:30:46 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Karel Bokhorst Subject: Re: Herpes zoster, shingles - Apitherapy? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: Gunnar Thygesen > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Herpes zoster, shingles - Apitherapy? > Date: dinsdag 11 februari 1997 15:14 > > From: gunnar@mcug.ping.dk (Gunnar Thygesen) > To: bee-l@cnsibm.albany.edu > > My old brother suffers terribly from shingles around his waist. > Any cure or alleviation from apitherapy? > Kinds regards > Gunnar > >Yes, Propolis cream will do the job very well. Try to buy a cream with atleast 5%propolis. If not available take a propolis tincture 10 % and add some oil to it Karel Bokhorst Dutch beekeeper > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 12:22:52 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout <102336.711@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: western bee Last week I mentioned Western Bee and Lapp Bee Supply in a post saying they had great prices. I neglected to include their phone numbers and have been getting requests for them. For the rest of you on the list who are interested here are the numbers: Western Bee - 800-548-8440 Lapp Bee Supply - 800-321-1960 I am sorry I overlooked including the numbers in the original post. I hope you find these folks as wonderful to deal with as I have. Good luck on the bee season. Ted Wout, 3rd year beekeeper, 8 hives, adding 4 this spring Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:47:40 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: western bee In-Reply-To: <970212172251_102336.711_HHQ37-1@CompuServe.COM> from "Ted Wout" at Feb 12, 97 12:22:52 pm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi: Just for the record, Western Bee is the primary supplier of Dadant woodenware. Years ago they moved to Montana. It is cheaper to be near the forest and ship parts than to ship logs and then cut them up. Jerry ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:38:08 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This Hawaiian Gold Honey "Natural Mountain Blossom " that you mention is not a made in Hawaii product.The packer who owns this label buys a lot of Hawaii honey and takes it to the west coast and private label under three different Hawaiian sounding company names and then ships the bottled and labeled honey back to hawaii to churn and burn the market. Oh well this is America and everything is OK I guess. This honey packer buys honey from all over the world as I suppose so many other packers do. This is honey may be from many natural mountains from many different places. China, Argentina, Canada and where ever honey is priced right. Whats in that honey you have could be any bodys guess. I guarantee you that you will be more then satisfied with any honey products that you buy from my company the HAWAIIAN HONEY HOUSE. We only pack Hawaii honey that has been produced only in Hawaii.You may check out our home page at www.alohamall.com/hamakua/hihoney.htm Looking forward to hearing from you and come visit . Walter & Elisabeth Patton Hale Lamalani-Bed & Breakfast Hawaiian Honey House-Honey Packers 27-703 A. Ka`ie`ie Homestead Rd. Papaikou,HI.96781 "The Bee Hive The Fountain Of Youth And Health" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:52:44 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To avoid any confusion there is no honey being made from any sugar cane stumps in Hawaii. By the way what would be the correct name for honey made from sugar cane seeping or syrup. Would this be a type of honey dew some help please. I only ask as I have heard in the early days of sugar cane there was a borer type of pest that would bore into the cane and the bees went after this juice that came from the borer hole. In the old days the local ethnic group of Portagees really like the product that the bees made as they used it in the production of a strong Portuguese dark wine . The problem of the cane borer was solved with the introduction of a beneficial insect for control and that was the end of beekeeping in the sugar acne production areas. Walter & Elisabeth Patton Hale Lamalani-Bed & Breakfast Hawaiian Honey House-Honey Packers 27-703 A. Ka`ie`ie Homestead Rd. Papaikou,HI.96781 "The Bee Hive The Fountain Of Youth And Health" ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:54:55 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey On Wed, 12 Feb 1997 15:52:44 -1000 Walter Patton writes: >To avoid any confusion there is no honey being made from any sugar >cane stumps in Hawaii. Hi Walter: I am truly "not picking on you", but actually how can anyone tell * with 99.9% certainty * where their bees are getting whatever they collect? Yes, I am aware that at times only certain things are in bloom, and I suppose one can assume that when Dandelions (or whatever is in bloom) are blooming in profusion within range of one's hives, that the major portion of nectar coming in is from those dandelions (or whatever). But, I don't see how anyone can say whatever else is or is not mixed in with that nectar. And yes, I know the flavor/taste can change in accordance with the mass blooming of anything in a given area at specific times. So, it seems to me that cut sugar cane stumps, at a certain point in time, must seep something sweet that some bees may be attracted to same. Obviously, your bees are only collecting in Hawaii, [ unless you are fast overnite freighting them into New Zealand and back under cover of darkness :-) ] and I am sure that your honey most likely has its own unique flavor/taste that cannot be found anywhere else, due to the unique mix of flora that is peculiar to Hawaii. Just some thoughts spawned by your message. Al --- Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program About Honey Bees With A Superb Slide Show-Version 2.0 (c) 1997 Download From: http://www.kuai.se/~beeman ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:27:59 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Thomas Wiegelmann Subject: Re: Herpes zoster, shingles - Apitherapy? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've been told bee venon therapy works very well . Contact Charlie Maas of Middlebury Vt. He will be able to advise you how to approach the problem. If you have problems locating him check with the AAS. Or get back to me and I will locate his phone # for you I know he has work with shingles before.Good Luck ---------- > From: Gunnar Thygesen > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Herpes zoster, shingles - Apitherapy? > Date: Tuesday, February 11, 1997 9:14 AM > > From: gunnar@mcug.ping.dk (Gunnar Thygesen) > To: bee-l@cnsibm.albany.edu > > My old brother suffers terribly from shingles around his waist. > Any cure or alleviation from apitherapy? > Kinds regards > Gunnar > > --- Terminate 4.00/Pro > -- > |Fidonet: Gunnar Thygesen 2:235/15.32 > |Internet: gunnar@mcug.ping.dk > | > | Standard disclaimer: The views of this user are strictly his own. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 21:27:10 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Bob St. John" Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey In-Reply-To: <19970212.215445.5126.0.awneedham@juno.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >So, it seems to me that cut sugar cane stumps, at a certain point in >time, must >seep something sweet that some bees may be attracted to same. > The problem with your scenario is that there is no cut sugar cane in east Hawaii anymore and I have never heard of bees being put in the area where sugar cane was raised when it was there. No we can never be sure where the bees are getting their nectar and we know that bees will often gather from one floral spource in the morning and another in the afternoon. Often it is more complicated than that with several flowers producing sweeter or more abundant nectar at various times of the day. On the other hand, beekeepers learn that certain types of honey that can be distinguished by flavor and color are produced in certain locations while certain flowers are blooming. For instance when we put a load of bees in a blooming orange groves and they produce honey white honey with orang flavor we need have no compunction in assuring anyone and everyone that it is orange honey. We produce a very high quality coffee on the Kona side of the island but it is very difficult for any of you to get any pure Kona Coffee because it can be called Kona blend if it has 10% Kona coffee. Oh, it is still good coffee and if you do find pure Kona Coffee it will probably cost $20 to $30. The point is that pretty much all honey is blended, if only by the bees, but we still need to be able to call it Sage or Orange or Lehua if it has the correct flavor and color. This an effort to serve the consumer and not to fool or confuse them. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:47:33 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steve Archer Subject: Wall Street Article Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out today's Wall Street Journal - front page. There is an article about the California beekeeping/almond situation. steve archer ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1997 18:32:06 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: Re: Pure Island Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well Al let me make it a little more simple for you. As you must know beekeepers put their hives close to the desired nectar source. No one in Hawaii puts beehives in sugar cane fields or stumps etc. and you are right that it must be very difficult to know with absolute certainty that a honey is 100% one floral source. As Bob St John said the bees go for macadamia nectar last. The only pure as pure can be mac honey is gathered from hives in large 500 plus acres of mac nuts with nothing else for the bees to gather nectar from and then the honey is close to being pure mac honey. Hopes this helps . Walter & Elisabeth Patton Hale Lamalani-Bed & Breakfast Hawaiian Honey House-Honey Packers 27-703 A. Ka`ie`ie Homestead Rd. Papaikou,HI.96781 "The Bee Hive The Fountain Of Youth And Health" ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:35:00 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ivan McGill Subject: Re: Wall Street Article Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Check out today's Wall Street Journal - front page. There is an article >about the California beekeeping/almond situation. > >steve archer Hi Steve: Do not get the Wall Street. Give us a short recap. Ivan ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 14:04:02 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Wall Street Article On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:35:00 PST Ivan McGill writes: >>Check out today's Wall Street Journal - front page. There is an >article about the California beekeeping/almond situation. Summary of Article: Focuses on a migrant beekeeper, Randy Verhoek, who trucks the California-North Dakota circuit, with his wife and two kids. She schools them on the road. He trucks about 3000 hives. He and some temps truck six long haulers renting out to growers of almonds,apples,cherries,cucumbers,sunflowers & melons. No fixed abode, trucks about 100,000 miles per year. The article addresses the shortage of feral bees and the growing need for migrant beekeepers. Speaks of trials/tribulations,losses and rewards. Asserts that this is good year with hives renting for $42 in comparison to $26 last year. Honey such as sweet-clover Sotuh Dakota variety now going for .95 cents per pound compared to last years 48 cents. Also addresses weather problems this year..such as loss of 20,000 hives washing away in California floods..to heavy snows in the Plains States burying thousands of hives, which may end up with them starving to death. Refers to Richard Adee, the country's largest beekeeper with only about 32,000 of his 50,000 hives able to get out from under the snow to California for almond season. Quotes Dr Shimanuki of USDA Lab in Beltsville, who says "I pollinate my own plants by hand with a camel-haired brush" {Gee, maybe there's a clue for a new business selling special pollination brushes - my comment-Al Needham] ) The Doc figures one quarter of the country's beekeepers move around for part of the year. He states that one day, migrants will replace traditional beekeres, "all our bees are being put on wheels". Spoke in detail about the tribulations/problems of migrant beekeepers, weather,etc. However, Verhoek says that this year is a fat year for folks like him. He expects to gross about $300,000 with about $150,000 going for expenses. Other years he says he just breaks even. .............. There you go. I think that I hit most of the highlights of the article. The rest of it went into length about getting stung, etc. Al ------ Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program About Honey Bees With A Superb Slide Show-Version 2.0 (c) 1997 Download From: http://www.kuai.se/~beeman ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 17:56:27 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: losses? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello all... I was just at our local Niagara Region Beekeepers Association meeting, and besides the usual arguing over to treat of not to treat for varroa <"those awefull chemicals.....;)> , the subject of Winter losses came up and the general concensus was that things were going fairly well so far. So I was wondering how my fellow beekeepers, at least in the northern hemisphere, are doing. Oh, and I haven't got much from the Bee-Line in the last few days, and this was the only thing I could think of to ask in order to test the system...;) Cheers.... @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @ Ian Watson @ @ iwatson@freenet.npiec.on.ca @ @ @ @ THREE BEES: @ @ Bach singer ,/// @ @ Bee keeper >8'III}- @ @ Bell ringer ',\\\ @ @ @ @ 5 hives, 2 years in Beekeeping @ @ St. Catharines, Canada @ @ "I BEE, therefore I am" @ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 27 Aug 1956 21:00:38 +0000 Reply-To: smharris@ed.co.sanmateo.ca.us Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mason Harris Subject: questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Bee folks, I have a few questions and I wonder if some of you would be kind enough to respond to me drawing from your vast experiential data bases. 1- I live in an area in California where there never seems to be a nectar or pollen dearth. Hence, I find totally filled/plugged upper breed chambers in mid winter. The bees NEVER use this pollen or honey. I have to take it off to loosen the BCs so the girls will not swarm in March. this year, I tried something different. I scrapped off the plastic (Permadent) frames and put them back into the Brood chambers. Question. Will the bees draw out and use the scrapped down frames? I know people have said they will but does anyone have any actual experience with this. In addition, If I put scrapped down foundation next to drawn foundation, will the bees choose to draw out the scrapped foundation or will they draw out the already drawn frame over to the new foundation? I know I can wait and see but I would like to avoid problems in the BC if possible. 2- I am wanting to buy a heated bottling tank. I see Kelly sells a "Grocers Tank" cat # 201 for $177.00. Does anyone have any feeling about this tank and how it really functions? I see it probably only heats from the bottom. Is this a drawback? I would really like the Maxant 600-2 or 3 but these are $700 & $825. It behooves me to explore the less expensive Kelly tank. If anyone has any real life experience with these tanks, I would appreciate your comments on one or both. Please respond to me personally regarding both these questions as I am sure it will bore the rest of the troops out there. Tanks....I mean Thanks Mason Harris smharris@ed.co.sanmateo.ca.us ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:37:00 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ivan McGill Subject: Re: losses? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Hello all... > >I was just at our local Niagara Region Beekeepers Association meeting, and >besides the usual arguing over to treat of not to treat for >varroa <"those awefull chemicals.....;)> , the subject of Winter losses >came up and the general concensus was that things were going fairly well >so far. So I was wondering how my fellow beekeepers, at least in the >northern hemisphere, are doing. Oh, and I haven't got much from the >Bee-Line in the last few days, and this was the only thing I could think >of to ask in order to test the system...;) >Cheers.... > @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ > @ Ian Watson @ > @ iwatson@freenet.npiec.on.ca @ > @ @ > @ THREE BEES: @ > @ Bach singer ,/// @ > @ Bee keeper >8'III}- @ > @ Bell ringer ',\\\ @ > @ @ > @ 5 hives, 2 years in Beekeeping @ > @ St. Catharines, Canada @ > @ "I BEE, therefore I am" @ > @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Hi Ian: The winter here at Prince George, B.C. (That is in the centre of the province) has had a lot of snow this year. So far all the beekeepers that I talked to the bees are good shape. Will be going to the next meeting in two weeks to see how many have lost colonies. I winter inside, have been for the last 20 years approx. (can't remember exactly). Normally winter about 75-100 but down to 31 checked for losses found one dead and one weak which won't make it. Took time out to build an RV park on my property so the bees have been looking after themselves almost for the past 5 year. This year I start to increase again to the above numbers and maybe more. Will be operating all two queen colonies this year (which I did before starting RV park) to get max. honey and increase at the same time. The reason I winter inside is that the weather is so unpredictable, we get rain here every January that I can remember except last year. Then it would get to -25 - -35C again. There would be so much moisture buildup that I finally said there has to be a better way. For me it has been indoor wintering! All the rest winter outside with mixed results. On the average with good queens going in winter losses are very few from year to year. Ivan ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:37:46 -0800 Reply-To: mwr@hotcity.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Mason's first question MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just started using plastic foundation last year and haven't had to scrape any of it off yet, so I can't answer your question. But you describe a problem that has come up in the Santa Clara Bee Guild meetings this winter. Lots of urban beekeepers in this part of California seem to have similar congestion problems. Part of the problem is that the bees are prone to scatter brood in pockets around the brood box with patches of honey and pollen interspersed. I'm not sure I understand why you scrape the comb off the Permadent. Is it just to clear out the congestion? If it's mostly full of honey it seems to me like you could just extract it and save all the hard work the bees went through to draw it out. If it is mixed with brood, you could move it above the excluder until it's clear. I'm in Gilroy, (40 miles south of San Mateo) and not so much in the Eucalyptus. My 'country' bees slow down more in the winter than my 'city' bees. I deal with the congestion problem by swapping out the congested frames for extracted ones or foundation in extreme cases. I generally try to move comb that's clogged with pollen to the outside edges and leave it in the brood box, or save it for a new colony. I use two brood boxes, which is a bit unusual in this area. Michael Reddell http://www.hotcity.com/~mwr ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:59:45 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: losses? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ian Watson wrote: > > Hello all... > > I was just at our local Niagara Region Beekeepers Association meeting, and > besides the usual arguing over to treat of not to treat for > varroa <"those awefull chemicals.....;)> , the subject of Winter losses > came up and the general concensus was that things were going fairly well > so far. So I was wondering how my fellow beekeepers, at least in the > northern hemisphere, are doing. Yes. This is interesting. I have just recently checked my 78 colonies, and found 3 dead and the rest strong, but some in need of feed. Two of the dead were my own fault, since I had let them get their cluster into a front corner, exposed to cold wood on two sides and unable to move when we got a prolonged cold snap. No signs yet of varroa damage, perhaps some (behavioral) sign of tracheal mites in a very few colonies Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan, USA. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Feb 1997 22:07:59 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Daniel D. Dempsey" Subject: Re: Wall Street Article Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 09:35:00 PST Ivan McGill >writes: >>>Check out today's Wall Street Journal - front page. There is an >>article about the California beekeeping/almond situation. > >Summary of Article: > >Focuses on a migrant beekeeper, Randy Verhoek, who trucks the >California-North >Dakota circuit, with his wife and two kids. She schools them on the road. >He trucks >about 3000 hives. >>snip<< I took my 18 hives with another beekeepers bees today to an almond orchard by the town of Orland,CA today. I ask the manager how many acres thay had. He said "4000" I noticed that they were trimming bare root trees to plant more. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 00:27:37 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: 10 or 9 frames in brood chamber? In-Reply-To: <199702140503.VAA03802@beach.silcom.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Bee-listers: I can't remember if this topic has been discussed on this list: Which is more advantageous in the brood chamber - 10 frames or 9 frames? I know the answer for supers: frames easier to uncap and less weight in the super. BTW I'm a chiropractor by profession so I recommend proper lifting proceedures to my beekeeper patients to prevent low back problems. Paul Cronshaw DC Cyberchiro & Hobby Beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 13:37:59 GMT+2 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tony Vissian Organization: ESKOM.CO.ZA Subject: supers What various reasons could there be for a swarm not building up in the super's. Is the swarm possibly too small ? Thank you Tony Vissian ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 07:01:18 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Marie E. Thorp" Subject: Bulk Tank Comments: To: smharris@ed.co.sanmateo.ca.us MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Mason, One of my uncle's lived in San Mateo for 40 some years while working for Delta Airlines. I stayed with him for two months after being discharged from the Navy at Treasure Island in '69. After he retired he moved to Sacramento. At any rate on to your tank situation.Through my involvrment with bee's in the late 50's the most practical method I've seen was a 5,000 gallon tank on an upright stand with a well insulated bldg. surrounding it. A thermost was used with a simple space heater. The tank was high enough off the ground where you could fill barrels with the exterior outlet or one pound jars.The extracted honey went directly into the tank for whatever honey flow was going on and then botteled accordingly. Anyone can do the same thing adjusting the tank size,ect.,for the size of their operation. I hope this helps. Take Care and GBY John in Homestead ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:16:21 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation In respect to plastic foundation....If I recall correctly, in prior discussions on BEE-L about plastic foundation, I believe that someone said that bees will not rebuild foundation on plastic that has been scrapped "clean"! Anyone recall that statement? Al ......... Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program About Honey Bees With A Superb Slide Show-Version 2.0 (c) 1997 Download From: http://www.kuai.se/~beeman ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:18:33 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation In a message dated 97-02-14 08:17:22 EST, you write: << In respect to plastic foundation....If I recall correctly, in prior discussions on BEE-L about plastic foundation, I believe that someone said that bees will not rebuild foundation on plastic that has been scrapped "clean"! >> Folk bees will draw comb on a billiard ball if the honeyflow is strong enough. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:30:53 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Rebuilding comb over plastic MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT > From: Albert W Needham > Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation > > In respect to plastic foundation....If I recall correctly, in prior > discussions on BEE-L about plastic foundation, I believe that someone > said that bees will not rebuild foundation on plastic that has been > scrapped "clean"! > > Anyone recall that statement? > The statement was that bees will not rebuild comb over the plastic reinforcement sheet used in Duraguilt once it has been scraped clean. I can attest to this and it's the main reason why I avoid using it. It was also stated that bees WILL redraw comb that has been scraped off Permadent and Pierco frames because the hex pattern is still left in the plastic after the comb is scraped off. Mason's request was for personal testimony to verify this claim. I have no personal experience with Permadent or Pierco, but am planning to give Permadent a try this season. > > From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" > > Folks, bees will draw comb on a billiard ball if the honeyflow is strong > enough. > Can't verify this claim as my bees prefer snooker! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 14:29:15 GMT Reply-To: Tim_Sterrett@westtown.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Sterrett Organization: Westtown School Subject: Re: supers What various reasons could there be for a swarm not building up in the super's. Is the swarm possibly too small ? We need more info to answer this: geographical location and date? Were hive bodies drawn out and then, later, were supers not drawn out? Tim Tim Sterrett Westtown, (Southeastern) Pennsylvania, USA tim_sterrett@westtown.edu ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 08:44:21 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation In-Reply-To: <19970214.081627.3502.3.awneedham@juno.com> from "Albert W Needham" at Feb 14, 97 08:16:21 am MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi: At the risk of having billard balls thrown at me, I can attest that bees will not rebuild comb that has been taken down to a slick plastic surface. I have examined thousands of commercial colonies and seen lots of frames with previous mouse damage. The bees never fix it. In fact, it looks like they polish the bare spot. Jerry Bromenshenk The University of Montana-Missoula jjbmail@selway.umt.edu http://grizzly.umt.edu/biology/bees ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:32:34 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Daniel G Jones Subject: Where to get package bees for mid-April shipment MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Greetings, I just called W. Kelly and they are already booked till mid May. I have been told that I need to get the bees in the hives in mid April. Is there any place else I should try? Should I just wait til May and start then? I'm a beginner and plan to start 3-4 colonies w/3 pound packages. I was going to try 2 Italian and 1 or 2 Hybrid. thanks in advance. --dj Dan Jones dgj+@pitt.edu Phone: 1.412.624.2189 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:17:58 -0500 Reply-To: loganv@earthlink.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Logan Van Leigh Subject: Re: Rebuilding comb over plastic MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Aaron Morris wrote: > > > From: Albert W Needham > > Subject: Re: Plastic Foundation > > > > In respect to plastic foundation....If I recall correctly, in prior > > discussions on BEE-L about plastic foundation, I believe that someone > > said that bees will not rebuild foundation on plastic that has been > > scrapped "clean"! > > > > Anyone recall that statement? > > > The statement was that bees will not rebuild comb over the plastic > reinforcement sheet used in Duraguilt once it has been scraped clean. > I can attest to this and it's the main reason why I avoid using it. > It was also stated that bees WILL redraw comb that has been scraped > off Permadent and Pierco frames because the hex pattern is still left > in the plastic after the comb is scraped off. My gals will draw 'scraped' Duragilt' if I put a thin coat of wax on the bare spot. My Duragilt plastic midrib has a slight hex pattern in it. Logan Lenoir City, TN ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:11:05 -0500 Reply-To: ruhnke@zoologie.uni-halle.de Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Haike Ruhnke Organization: zoologie.uni-halle.de Subject: Megachile genalis MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hallo, Iam working on the leafcutter bee Megachile genalis MOR. (Hymenoptera: Apoidea). Publications about this species are rare. This bee should be a pontic or siberian species. If anybody know something about M. genalis (evidences, spreading, biology, literature) please contact with me. Thanks for your help. Haike Ruhnke Haike Ruhnke University Halle Institute of Zoology Domplatz 4 06099 Halle/S. Germany Tel.: +49 345 5526443 ruhnke@zoologie.uni-halle.de ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 12:18:01 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout <102336.711@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Rebuilding comb over plastic Aaron Morris wrote: >The statement was that bees will not rebuild comb over the plastic >reinforcement sheet used in Duraguilt once it has been scraped clean. >I can attest to this and it's the main reason why I avoid using it. I have had the same experience with duragilt and avoid it for this reason. >It was also stated that bees WILL redraw comb that has been scraped >off Permadent and Pierco frames because the hex pattern is still left >in the plastic after the comb is scraped off. Mason's request was >for personal testimony to verify this claim. I have no personal >experience with Permadent or Pierco, but am planning to give Permadent >a try this season. I use Permadent not Pierco one piece frames. When extracting honey, every once in a while there is a small patch of brood(normally drone) in one of the frames of capped honey. I usually just scrape this brood out with a hive tool and then extract. The next year the bees have rebuilt that comb. I don't know if they'd repair a whole frame but they seem able or desire to repair small patches that have been scraped clean. Ted Wout, 3rd year beekeeper, 8 hives, adding 4 this spring Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 14:11:38 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank Humphrey Subject: Re: Where to get package bees for mid-April shipment MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: Daniel G Jones > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Where to get package bees for mid-April shipment > Date: Friday, February 14, 1997 11:32 AM > > Greetings, > > I just called W. Kelly and they are already booked > till mid May. I have been told that I need to get the bees > in the hives in mid April. > > Is there any place else I should try? Should I just wait til > May and start then? > > I'm a beginner and plan to start 3-4 colonies w/3 pound > packages. I was going to try 2 Italian and 1 or 2 Hybrid. > > thanks in advance. > > --dj > > Dan Jones > dgj+@pitt.edu > Phone: 1.412.624.2189 Try to buy a Nuc from a local beekeeper. Many will sell a few frames of bees to help prevent swarming. Next, get a bee magazine and call everyone. The second option here probably won't yield any bees because of the high demand for bees but it is worth a try. Sometimes you get lucky Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 14:13:34 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Where to get package bees for mid-April shipment On Fri, 14 Feb 1997 11:32:34 -0500 Daniel G Jones writes: > I just called W. Kelly and they are already booked > till mid May. I have been told that I need to get the bees > in the hives in mid April. > > Is there any place else I should try? Dan: A suggestion - Do you know any beekeepers in your area, or do you belong to a local Bee Club/Association? The reason I ask is that in my local Club are some Commercial Beekeepers. One of them drives down to Georgia every year and gets a truckload for which he has previously contracted ($13,000 worth) for package bees. Since he doesn't need a whole truckload for himself, he passes the word and even advertises in a local Farm publication to see who may want some packages. He sells the difference between what he needs and the truckload he has contracted for to small beekeepers - mostly hobbyists. This cuts his costs down and it's a good deal for the smaller guys in terms of avoiding the problems that may arise obtaining packages thru the mail. The bees also spend less time in transit. Al ---- Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program About Honey Bees With A Superb Slide Show-Version 2.0 (c) 1997 Download From: http://www.kuai.se/~beeman ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 14:17:26 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank Humphrey Subject: Re: supers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: Tony Vissian > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: supers > Date: Friday, February 14, 1997 8:37 AM > > What various reasons could there be for a swarm not building up in > the super's. > Is the swarm possibly too small ? > Thank you > Tony Vissian Colony to small. Not enough young bees to secrete wax. No Nectar flow. And sometimes bees refuse to go through a queen excluder to get to bare foundation. if this is the case, remove the excluder until they have drawn some comb then put it back. They will almost always continue working in the super if they some comb above it. Frank & Phronsie Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 14:50:45 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIDNITEBEE Subject: swarming and its control/bee suppliers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/ I have added a new topic to my web site.Located at the beelinks page,the article is called"Swarming and its Control".Also,I have added a link to bee and queen suppliers. Midnitebee(Herb) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 20:21:23 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerry Visel Subject: Re: losses? On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:37:00 PST Ivan McGill wrote: >The reason I winter inside is that the weather is so unpredictable, we get >rain here every January that I can remember except last year. Then it would >get to -25 - -35C again. There would be so much moisture buildup that I >finally said there has to be a better way. For me it has been indoor >wintering! All the rest winter outside with mixed results. On the average >with good queens going in winter losses are very few from year to year. > Ivan, Do you do anything special with the colonies indoors? Do you control moisture or amount of light? Do they eat more/less than the outdoor ones? Do you have mites up there? Gerry and the other Visels at Visel7@juno.com Winnebago, Illinois, USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 19:31:34 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ed Levi Subject: Re: supers Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >---------- >> From: Tony Vissian >> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >> Subject: supers >> Date: Friday, February 14, 1997 8:37 AM >> >> What various reasons could there be for a swarm not building up in >> the super's. >> Is the swarm possibly too small ? >> Thank you >> Tony Vissian > >Colony to small. >Not enough young bees to secrete wax. >No Nectar flow. >And sometimes bees refuse to go through a queen excluder to get to bare >foundation. if this is the case, remove the excluder until they have drawn >some comb then put it back. They will almost always continue working in >the super if they some comb above it. > >Frank & Phronsie Humphrey >beekeepr@cdc.net You might also try "baiting the super" by putting a few previously frames up there to attract the bees. Ed ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 07:39:17 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dennis and Marian Subject: Re: 10 or 9 frames in brood chamber? In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Some of us use 8 frame equipment to help with the weight problem. I'm = considering going to 8 frame western (6 5/8) exclusivly. The weight per = box is lower, the center of gravity is closer to me, my back has an easie= r time. Yes, I need to have a larger number of boxes, the cost of equipment per = hive is a bit more and I may have to work and super hives more often. = On the other hand, my 12 frame extractor handles the shorter frames bette= r (gets the honey out of the bottom 2" of the frames better, easier), the= hives load on my truck easier (and more of them per load), my back is = happier and I may actually be able to have completely interchangable equi= pment. The trials I have made so far indicate the colony acceptance of such an = arrangement is good. Dennis Southern Oregon, USA, Sideliner ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 19:45:00 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ivan McGill Subject: Re: losses? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 19:37:00 PST Ivan McGill wrote: >>The reason I winter inside is that the weather is so unpredictable, we >get >>rain here every January that I can remember except last year. Then it >would >>get to -25 - -35C again. There would be so much moisture buildup that I >>finally said there has to be a better way. For me it has been indoor >>wintering! All the rest winter outside with mixed results. On the >average >>with good queens going in winter losses are very few from year to year. >> > >Ivan, > > Do you do anything special with the colonies indoors? Do you control >moisture or amount of light? Do they eat more/less than the outdoor >ones? Do you have mites up there? > >Gerry and the other Visels at >Visel7@juno.com >Winnebago, Illinois, USA Gerry: Moisture is not a problem with indoor wintering, in fact sometimes there is too little. The room is totally dark. The temp. is kept at 40 - 45 F, I use a electric heater with a thermomstat the goes below the standard 45 F. Air should be changed everyday. My building is 16'x30'. It also stores my extracting equipment, I use the same building for extracting. The formula that is used is LxWxH then divide by 11 for single colonies 18 for double that will give you the amount of colonies that you can winter safely. I put the bees in approx. end of Oct. then are out by March 15 to 25 in our area. The best is take them out when you can no longer control the temp. in the building. That may sound a little unscientific but that is what I do. We also have a large furnace fan set up with a airconditioning thermomstat which will pull cool air in when it gets above 45 F. The setup does not have to be elaborate. Just functional. There is a few people out there that does indoor wintering, best to try and see their operations if possible and start out small. The feed costs are far less than outside because you keep the temp. constant or approx. The more you have in the building the less heat you will need. There is no mites in this area that we know of. There is one fellow that wintered indoors who thought he had mites problems. He solved his problem by treating them inside. For more information on that contact Canadian Bee Journal for that issue or ask for his name and write to him direct. I have used this system for many years with better results than outdoors. If you need anymore specific info contact me direct. Ivan ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Feb 1997 23:16:50 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Marie E. Thorp" Subject: plastic frames and foundation Comments: To: awneedham@juno.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Albert W Needham wrote: > > In respect to plastic foundation....If I recall correctly, in prior > discussions on > BEE-L about plastic foundation, I believe that someone said that bees > will > not rebuild foundation on plastic that has been scrapped "clean"! > > Anyone recall that statement? > > Al > ......... > Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com > "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program About Honey > Bees With A Superb Slide Show-Version 2.0 (c) 1997 > Download From: http://www.kuai.se/~beemanHi Al and Bee-L, To be sure bees will not do much with plastic once you've scraped it clean. Ah,but there is hope! What you need to do is take a brush and apply melted wax. This works very well but usually only for honey supers because of the excesive amount of drone cells.I hope this helps. Take Care and GBY John in Homestead -- End --