Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9703B" To: "W. Allen Dick" Resent-From: Resent-Date: Wed, 12 Mar 97 19:01:25 EST Resent-To: allend@mail1.internode.net Message-Id: <02055135306963@systronix.net> ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 14:10:37 GMT+2 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIKE ALLSOPP Organization: N.I.P.B VREDENBURG Subject: Re: Problem with foraging bees Hi all There are no beekeepers in the vicinity of the hotel in question, but as it is in a pretty arid region, the hotel gardens have attracted more than their share of honeybee colonies. The things that are causing the problems are definitely honeybees; and they come to the breakfast buffet mostly (frosted pastries, tinned fruit, fruit juices etc), and to the desert section of the lunch and dinner buffets. Roy Nettlebeck suggests the aroma of a fabric softener works as a repellent; will this be detectable and hence repellent to the guests as well? Any further suggestions? regards Mike Mike Allsopp tel (27)(21) 887-4690 Honeybee Research Section fax (27)(21) 883-3285 Plant Protection Research Institute pmail plant3/vredma Agricultural Research Council email vredma@plant3.agric.za P/Bag X5017 Stellenbosch 7599 South Africa ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 05:38:34 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Problem with foraging bees In-Reply-To: <2DBE3B413A@PLANT3.AGRIC.ZA> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Hi all > > There are no beekeepers in the vicinity of the hotel in question, but as > it is in a pretty arid region, the hotel gardens have attracted more than > their share of honeybee colonies. I wonder how offering scented syrup at other, more less populated sites might work to distract them, and perhaps permit bee-lining them for future removal? Allen Dick VE6CFK Rural Route One, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 08:18:09 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Donald Aitken Subject: Re: Problem with foraging bees In-Reply-To: <2DBE3B413A@PLANT3.AGRIC.ZA> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Donald Aitken 11710-129 Street Edmonton Alberta Canada T5M 0Y7 On Sat, 8 Mar 1997, MIKE ALLSOPP wrote: > There are no beekeepers in the vicinity of the hotel in question, but > as it is in a pretty arid region, the hotel gardens have attracted > more than their share of honeybee colonies. > I had a similar problem several years ago during a prolonged dry spell in August. A lady with a Japanese garden called and told me that my bees were bothering the people in her yard. When I investigated I found a small simulated stream about thirty feet long filled with water. The bees were standing shoulder to shoulder along the entire length of the bank, sucking up water like it was the last stream on earth. It was quite frightening for her guests; I felt a little nervous myself. I went back to the beeyard and provided three barrels with water and straw along the route the bees were flying. I believe this would have been more effective if I had done it BEFORE the problem arose rather than after. The rain came soon after and the problem disappeared. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 22:22:48 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Pollen traps, Bee tree saga, Fred Malone Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Bee-listers: Several questionsto ask this weekend: 1. Pollen Traps : Any suggestions on good pollen traps? I have seen ones that have the pull-out tray accessed from the back of the hive. Who makes these models? 2. Continuing saga of the new swarm that moved into a large oak tree. I smoked the heck out of this swarm to drive them out, but they have held fast to their new home. Would a rolled up paper town with Bee-Go dropped into their new home drive them out? 3. I am reading Fred Malone's Book "Bees Don't Get Arthritis" Where is the author these days? THanks for any input to my questions. Paul Cronshaw, D.C. Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA USA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 08:34:56 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: Pollen traps, Bee tree saga, Fred Malone Comments: cc: paulc@silcom.com In a message dated 97-03-09 01:26:32 EST, paulc@silcom.com (Paul Cronshaw, D.C.) writes: << . Continuing saga of the new swarm that moved into a large oak tree. I smoked the heck out of this swarm to drive them out, but they have held fast to their new home. Would a rolled up paper town with Bee-Go dropped into their new home drive them out? >> Not likely. If you are really determined, try drumming. You might find an old-timey beekeeper that knows the technique. Be forewarned, it's a lot of work. And, of course you will only get the adults, so they colony will be seriously set back. I've had loggers give me a section of tree with a bee colony in it. This is the technique I used when I was young, lean and hungry. Later I went to using a chain saw to grind off a flat spot of the area around the entrance. Then I set a 16 x 20 piece of half inch plywood down, with a hole in the middle, placed right over the open part of the log. Then set a deep super of comb, with a cover, over this. The queen doesn't like to lay in tilted comb, so she readily moves up into the box. Once she's upstairs, you can slip an excluder under the box, and you have the colony. -No loss of brood or honey. If you can't find an experienced drummer, here's the nutshell version: Get a rubber mallet. As close as you can tell, locate the exact site of the brood nest. Smoke them lightly. Begin a steady thumping on the tree at that point. Keep it up for several minutes. The bees can't stand the thumping and they will begin to exit. You will have to have an assistant to capture them and put them in a hive. Watch for the queen and do not stop thumping, at least until you know you have her. It will help, if you have a frame of brood in the hive. Otherwise you may have the entire colony just take off and leave, after you think they are established. It also would be good to do this late enough, so that they are forced to spend the night in their new home. The bees generally will be very gentle after a couple minutes of drumming. They don't seem to care for anything but to get away from the irritation. I'd plug up the tree, when done. After the hive has some of its own brood in the new box, you might open the tree back up and let them rob out the honey. But don't wait too long as it will have fermented, and the dead brood could vector diseases, too. Personally I don't think it's worth the effort and the sore arm. It's a lot easier to make nucs. It's a learning experience anyway. Each to his own. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) Pollination for lay people, students, teachers ....Of bees, beekeepers, and food http://users.aol.com/queenbjan/primbees.htm Pollination for the pros - those involved in doing it: Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Varietal Honeys and Gift Sets http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 08:58:01 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Steve.Reddick" Organization: Home Subject: Pollen Sub & Terramycin MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all: I am making up some pollen substitutes Soya Flour/Brewers yeast/skim milk powder/sugar/water. The recipes I have suggest this is a good way to deliver terramycin but no quantity is given. There is no instruction on the terramycin container for mixing with Patties or Pollen Sub. Does anyone know of a formula that could help me? Thanks Steve Reddick sunrise@barint.on.ca ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 10:03:57 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Problem with foraging bees On Fri, 7 Mar 1997 08:26:38 -0800 Roy Nettlebeck writes: >.When I put out my honey to sample at farmers markets , > I put a sheet of Bounce fabric softener under a table cloth >and it works very well, in keeping the yellow jackets away >from the honey. Roy, I wonder, does that "Bounce" also keep away Honey Bees? What ever gave you that idea anyway? Observation? I was wondering if the stuff would be any good at keeping yellow jackets away from trying to rob hives in the fall? (Like they try to do around here) They buzz about looking for cracks or anyplace they can slip in! It's tough trying to hit each one of those thieves over the head one at a time! Al --- Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program > Learn About Honey Bees & Beekeeping < Go - http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 21:03:22 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Pollen Sub & Terramycin In-Reply-To: <3322C1E9.5A86@barint.on.ca> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > I am making up some pollen substitutes Soya Flour/Brewers yeast/skim milk > powder/sugar/water. The recipes I have suggest this is a good way to > deliver terramycin but no quantity is given. There is no instruction on > the terramycin container for mixing with Patties or Pollen Sub. > Does anyone know of a formula that could help me? This is not an ideal delivery method, since consumption rate is not predictable, and the oxytet degrades quickly in the presence of water. Moreover, it is not on the drug label as having been proven. Allen Dick VE6CFK Rural Route One, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 21:15:55 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Daniel D. Dempsey" Subject: Thick brown gob Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have a single deep hive that was treated with Apistan, Grease Patty, 1 treatment of T25 and sugar and also received a gal. of 2:to1: syrup with wintergreen last Fall. I checked it 2 weeks ago and it was building slow, today it is in decline with patches of sealed brood that did not look rite when you open them they have a thick light brown gob that was the larvae. It will pull out to about 1/2 Inch, There is NO smell like AFB. We had 2 cold mornings down to 28F last week. There are eggs in open cells among the brood patches. Before I put the match to it does any one have any idea what this may be? Daniel D. Dempsey P. O. Box #5 Red Bluff, CA 96080-0005 U.S.A. 85 miles south of Mt. Shasta In the Sacramento Valley ddempsey@tco.net ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 21:15:59 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Daniel D. Dempsey" Subject: Fluvalinate causing Cancer Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have been searching Bee-L to find anything about Fluvalinate causing Cancer, was not able to find anything. Anyone have any idea as to where to look? thanks Dan Daniel D. Dempsey P. O. Box #5 Red Bluff, CA 96080-0005 U.S.A. 85 miles south of Mt. Shasta In the Sacramento Valley ddempsey@tco.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 03:49:08 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Beck Subject: News Item Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In the Business Section of Madison WI's "Wisconsin State Journal" dated 2/27/97, was an article concerning the plight of beekeepers, primarily in WI but touching on the national view. Some of the highlights are: 1) "Experts estimate 67% of the state's domestic honeybees -- and 90% of the wild honeybees -- have been wiped out" - I assume this is over a 10 year span which is cited earlier. 2) The importance of bees in crop pollination and the impact on the large fruit producers and even for the backyard gardener. 3) 20% of CA's bees destroyed in floods. 4) A couple of paragraphs about mites and their affect on bees. 5) "There are about 75,000 beehives in Wisconsin. In 1996, the mortality rate was 42%" and a local beekeeper predicts this will be a "tough" year also. 6) Honey prices have doubled in last three years. 7) "Wisconsin has lost 50% of its domestic honeybees every winter the past four years, according to the state Agriculture Department. Normal winter losses seldom exceed 15%." Article concludes with a few paragraphs about another local beekeeper who has quit the pollination business. It also included internet sites (www.sci.agriculture.beekeeping & Beekeeping@aol.com) and how to get General Mills to contribute $0.25 for each bee from Honey Nut Cheerios for honeybee research). John Beck ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 03:52:40 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Beck Subject: Chlorine Bleach Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Has anyone had any experience with, or know of any information concerning the use of chlorine bleach as a sterilization agent for used or infected equipment? John Beck ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 07:23:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Griggs Subject: Re: Fluvalinate causing Cancer In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.16.19970309210933.3f8fd072@tco.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Here are a couple of Sources where you might be able to get info on toxicity of insecticides. While there is always concern using "*icides" requiring care limiting exposure, data on long term chronic effects is poorly understood! Fluvalinate is from a group of insecticides that is fairly safe showing little mamalian toxicity, again chronic effects are not easily identified. You can always contact a vendor for info , labels or material safety data sheets. Try: Pesticide Action Network North America http://www.panna.org/panna/ EXTOXNET Global Search http://ace.ace.orst.edu/info/extoxnet/ghindex.html MSDS gopher://atlas.chem.utah.edu:70/11/MSDS Mike >I have been searching Bee-L to find anything about Fluvalinate causing >Cancer, was not able to find anything. Anyone have any idea as to where to >look? > >thanks Dan > >Daniel D. Dempsey >P. O. Box #5 >Red Bluff, CA 96080-0005 >U.S.A. >85 miles south of Mt. Shasta In the Sacramento Valley >ddempsey@tco.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 07:15:50 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Pollen Traps MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT I was very happy with the merchandise and service I received from Stauffer's Beehives - Superior Pollen Traps - Money Back Guarantee. Available via mail only, no phone, let alone e-mail! But product and service was top notch and the trap worked extremely well! Price per trap was in the $40 range. I highly recommend Staufer's! Write to: David S. Martin, Proprietor RD 1 Box 489 Port Trevorton, Pennsylvania 17864-9799 DISCLAIMER: No stock, just a VERY satisfied customer. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:04:35 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steve Pearce Organization: Dept of Biochemistry Subject: Long Idea hive Dearest Bee "liners" I have heard of the "long idea hive" but have never seen an example in any form. It seems to me to be a very adaptable system, does anyone out there use this system, what are the pros and cons and are there any pictures/plans anywhere. Thanks Steve Pearce Kilspindie Scotland ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 09:08:55 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: Thick brown gob Comments: To: ddempsey@tco.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sorry to hear of the colony's troubles, Daniel. DON'T BURN it!! Since there is no odor, there is a good chance you are not dealing with foulbrood. Also, the colony was treated with antibiotics, so should not have been susceptible. I am interested to hear what the more experienced listers would have to say, but would like to offer this: There are a number of infections that will cause death of larvae, and this will of course lead to decomposition of the brood. What you can end up with is the brown gobs you are seeing, being just rotting larvae. Certain differences in symptoms can help you to diagnose just what the particular problem might be. Besides infection, there is the possibility of contaminated pollen as well, which may have been collected & fed to the brood (laced with pesticide or whatever). Though I can't say what the problem is for sure, I would encourage you to hold off on destroying the equipment(!) and try to locate someone who could give them an experienced looking-over. There are certain options, such as shaking the bees onto clean combs or foundation, then feeding them heavily, etc.. I hope you can salvage them and turn the situation around. It sounds like you have been very conscientious and thorough in caring for them. Best wishes, J. Govostes Freeville, NY >I have a single deep hive that was treated with Apistan, Grease Patty, 1 >treatment of T25 and sugar and also received a gal. of 2:to1: syrup with >wintergreen last Fall. > > I checked it 2 weeks ago and it was building slow, today it is in decline >with patches of sealed brood that did not look rite when you open them they >have a thick light brown gob that was the larvae. It will pull out to about >1/2 Inch, There is NO smell like AFB. We had 2 cold mornings down to 28F >last week. There are eggs in open cells among the brood patches. Before I >put the match to it does any one have any idea what this may be? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 14:13:12 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steve Pearce Organization: Dept of Biochemistry Subject: Long hive idea! many thanks Joel, for all the info on long hives, I was going to make the hive with an axle at one end and two props at the other so I could move them about like a wheelbarrow. I hope the picture comes out right I can then wheel them into my trailer and away. I think this could be really good for me as I have found it a reall pain moving hives on my own, and nothing else seems to be very good. I am thinking as well that if there are other entrances in the hive, which are open and closable I should be able ( with division boards of course) to have nuclei etc in the same hive simultaneously, there is also less to come apart on bumpt roads, and I recon I could push this thing quite a way even over quite uneven ground, which would be good for me as some of my hives are in really weird places, through trees etc. Maybe the ideal bee wagon would be an old hearse! ------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------- I I I I I ________------------------------------------------------- ________------------------------------------------------- II II II II Steve Pearce Kilspindie Scotland ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:05:27 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "THONE HUGO VE144 (240)9452" Subject: Re: Fluvalinate causing Cancer In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.16.19970309210933.3f8fd072@tco.net> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT >I have been searching Bee-L to find anything about >Fluvalinate causing >Cancer, was not able to find anything. Anyone have >any idea as to where to >look? I you really want to get cancer, you can always try to eat the Apistan strips ;-) Hugo +++++ Hugo Thone (SE144) (\ {|||8- ALCATEL TELECOM (/ F.Wellesplein 1 B-2018 Antwerp do bee do bee do .... email : thoneh@btmaa.bel.alcatel.be phone : (32) 3 240 94 52 fax : (32) 3 240 99 50 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:40:43 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Long Idea hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve Pearce wrote: > > Dearest Bee "liners" > > I have heard of the "long idea hive" but have never seen an example in any form. It seems to me to > be a very adaptable system, does anyone out there use this system, what are the pros and cons and > are there any pictures/plans anywhere. I built a 33 frame long hive several years ago for a friend who is confined to a wheelchair. It had a center section that would accept standard honey supers. The bees just don't want to work that way and its just about impossible to get them to use the end frames. We gave up after 3 seasons of trying. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 10:58:30 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Thick brown gob MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Daniel D. Dempsey wrote: > > I have a single deep hive that was treated with Apistan, Grease Patty, 1 > treatment of T25 and sugar and also received a gal. of 2:to1: syrup with > wintergreen last Fall. > > I checked it 2 weeks ago and it was building slow, today it is in decline > with patches of sealed brood that did not look rite when you open them they > have a thick light brown gob that was the larvae. It will pull out to about > 1/2 Inch, There is NO smell like AFB. We had 2 cold mornings down to 28F > last week. There are eggs in open cells among the brood patches. Before I > put the match to it does any one have any idea what this may be? Hi Daniel, As Joel said, don't burn it yet. However, AFB may be the cause even though there is no odor. Usually only real bad infections of that disease have much odor, especially if you have not smelled it before. I don't know how it works but the more you are around it (as when working as inspector) the more sensitive your sniffer gets to it. Any way "thick light brown gob that was the larvae" isn't enough info for a diagnosis. I would like you to get back in there again and: 1) Take a sample of the dead larvae. With a toothpick, scoop some of the remains of several typical dead larvae and wipe them onto a paper. Fold the paper and send to the Beltsville lab for examination. 2) Make some more detailed observations. Are there scales (dried larval remains) present? If so, can you remove them without damaging the cell? Are the patches of dead larvae on the same frames as the cluster? Are they within the cluster area or just outside? Are there signs of disentary? Describe the dead larvae that are not yet brown. Are they complete or just pieces? Is sac brood a possibility? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 16:05:46 UT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: S Subject: A Few Questions I'm new to beekeeping, and will be installing 2 packages this spring. We have a small orchard and would like to keep bees for pollination.My questions are: 1)Foundation: I am considering starting with cut comb honey foundation, but I've seen differing opinions on this for beginners from different authors - what do you think? Also, I figured I could just crush the combs and let the honey drain out instead of cutting into chunks and this way I could get some beeswax too. Could I put new foundation in the supers every year like this, or it would it be too stressful on the bees? I would like to get enough beeswax to make candles, etc. and with only a few hives figured I would not get much from cappings and excess comb. 2)Feeding: Is it a good idea to feed the newly installed package with pollen substitute patties in addition to syrup? Thank you to everyone who takes the time to reply to my message. I have learned a lot from the list, and hopefully someday I may even be able to contribute to the discussion ( with a little experience)! :) Susan Starr St. Louis, MO ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 14:01:09 +0000 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "T.V. Fischer" Organization: University of Michigan Subject: Re: Pollen Sub & Terramycin MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve.Reddick wrote: > > Hi all: > I am making up some pollen substitutes Soya Flour/Brewers yeast/skim > milk powder/sugar/water. The recipes I have suggest this is a good way > to deliver terramycin but no quantity is given. There is no instruction > on the terramycin container for mixing with Patties or Pollen Sub. > Does anyone know of a formula that could help me? I have always had problems using pollen substitute patties made up in this way, and for some time now haven't used anything. However, this past weekend at the Michigan Beekeeper's Association meeting, advice was given by Mr. Jadszac (sorry if the spelling is wrong, this is from my memory only) of the Maine Department of Agriculture (I think) recommended putting dry pollen substitute on top of the inner cover, and the bees took it voraciously. This gets away from the problem of molding and hardening pollen patties. It was also mentioned that the use of terramycin in these patties, if used, is a bad idea. Terramycin should be given either in grease patties or dry mixed with powdered sugar. (My experience is that the dry powdered sugar mix, if not taken up right away, also hardens and much of the activity is wasted.) Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 14:11:39 +0000 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "T.V. Fischer" Organization: University of Michigan Subject: Re: Thick brown gob MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I hate to disagree with my respected BEE-L expert, Joel Govostes, but to my way of thinking, the first thing you suspect when the brown dead pupa pulls out to 1/2 inch is AFB, smell or no smell. The other confirming signs are 1) isolated small patches of dead brood rather than large unified areas; 2) sunken cappings, often punctured; 3) dark scales on the lower surface of the cells. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 12:34:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Janet Montgomery & Dan Veilleux Subject: Re: A Few Questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" A reply to another facet of keeping bees in orchards---please get rid of the dandilions and other blooming weeds IN THE ORCHARD ---24-d in the fall is a cheap and effective method.. Blooming flowers such as dandilions are readily contaminated by the insectidal sprays within the orchard and can create havoc with your colonies. At 04:05 PM 3/10/97 UT, you wrote: >I'm new to beekeeping, and will be installing 2 packages this spring. We have >a small orchard and would like to keep bees for pollination.My questions are: > >1)Foundation: I am considering starting with cut comb honey foundation, but >I've seen differing opinions on this for beginners from different authors - >what do you think? Also, I figured I could just crush the combs and let the >honey drain out instead of cutting into chunks and this way I could get some >beeswax too. Could I put new foundation in the supers every year like this, >or it would it be too stressful on the bees? I would like to get enough >beeswax to make candles, etc. and with only a few hives figured I would not >get much from cappings and excess comb. > >2)Feeding: Is it a good idea to feed the newly installed package with pollen >substitute patties in addition to syrup? > >Thank you to everyone who takes the time to reply to my message. I have >learned a lot from the list, and hopefully someday I may even be able to >contribute to the discussion ( with a little experience)! :) > >Susan Starr >St. Louis, MO > > Janet Montgomery 104 Fallis Road Columbus, Ohio 43214-3724 Home: (614) 784-8334 FAX: (614) 268-3107 E-mail: MONTVEIL@IWAYNET.NET ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 13:16:33 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James D Satterfield Subject: Addition to tbh website. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I have finally gotten the four chapters which Marty Hardison has written on tbh beekeeping posted to the website. He also includes plans for the hive that he feels is best adapted to his locale, New Mexico USA. To read what Marty shares with us, go to http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm I am revising the photos on the website to reduce the file sizes and improve the quality. I will also be incorporating some new photos that will help to understand some procedures. If you have material on tbh beekeeping that would make a contribution to the site, get in touch with me. I would be delighted to discuss it with you. Cordially yours, Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------- | James D. Satterfield | E-Mail: jsatt@gsu.edu | | 258 Ridge Pine Drive --------------------------------| | Canton, GA 30114, USA Canton is about 40 mi/64 km | | Telephone (770) 479-4784 north of Altanta, Georgia USA | | | | TBH Beekeeping Website: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm | ---------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 11:32:17 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Thick brown gob In-Reply-To: <15210685503732@systronix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > >I have a single deep hive that was treated with Apistan, Grease Patty, 1 > >treatment of T25 and sugar and also received a gal. of 2:to1: syrup > >with wintergreen last Fall. > > > > I checked it 2 weeks ago and it was building slow, today it is in > > decline with patches of sealed brood that did not look rite when you open them > >they have a thick light brown gob that was the larvae. It will pull out > >to about 1/2 Inch... One treatment of TM25 with sugar will not prevent AFB. The usual recommendations are for a minimum of three such treatments, and if there is suspicion that AFB could be a problem, more treatments than that are necessary -- spring and fall. Additionally, it is not said when the treatment was applied and if the bees actually ate it. AFB is still the chief suspect here, and only confirmation by an experienced beekeeper or lab analysis will say for sure. Beginning beekeepers *need* the assistance of experienced beekeepers, since these matters are often difficult to understand from reading alone. Enquiring at local bee supply outfits, or local ag extension offices will often turn up a neighbour who will help, and without charge. Burning is not a permanent solution if there are many other beekeepers around, but any infected frames should be removed and disposed of, and the remainder carefully examined and treated. Allen Dick VE6CFK Rural Route One, Swalwell, Alberta Canada T0M 1Y0 dicka@cuug.ab.ca & allend@internode.net http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Mar 1997 21:09:42 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ron Taylor Subject: Spring 97 Beekeeping Course by Lowcountry and Colleton County Beekeepers March 4, 1997 To: Public Affairs Directors From:Lowcountry Coordinator Limestone College 4500 Leeds Avenue ` North Charleston SC 29405 Subj: Public Service Announcement for a Beginning Beekeeping Course. 1. Request the following be announced as a Public Service Announcement: 2. There is a great need for new beekeepers. Mites have virtually destroyed the wild honey bee population. Honeybees are needed to pollinate gardens and farm fields in order to produce the fruit and vegetables we enjoy. The only source of pollination is a hive sitting in a persons back yard or at the edge of a farmers field. With more research and the development of contols, we will be able to win over the mites. 3. The Lowcountry and Colleton County Beekeepers will be conducting a one day "Introduction to Beekeeping" Course as part of a Limestone College Enrichment Course. This course will be scheduled on Saturday, March 29 from 9:00 to 5:00 P M at "Bee City" in Cottageville, South Carolina. Bee City is located off highway 61 near the Givens State Park. Signs will be provided. This workshop will include an Introduction to Beekeeping and Bee Biology, Equipment Needed, Installing Package Bees and Collecting Swarms, Detection and Control of Diseases and Extracting and Processing Honey. This course will satisfy the educational requirements for the education portion of the "Certified Beekeeper" level of the South Carolina State Beekeepers Master Beekeeper program. A field day will held in the Spring of 97 to complete the practical portion of the "Certified Beekeepers" level for the hands on experience of opening hives, locating queens and observing bee behavior. The cost for this course is $25.00 per person and $30.00 per family. The fee for taking the "Certified Beekeepers" exam is $5.00. Participants are asked to bring a brown bag lunch. Drinks will be provided. This course will be taught by Archie Biering, a Certified Beekeeper, President of the Lowcountry Beekeepers and Ron Taylor, a Certified Beekeeper and President of the Colleton and South Carolina Beekeepers. To register for this course call Archie Biering at 803-835-2482 or Ron Taylor at 803-835-2482 or email: LCBLOCKLOWCOUNTRY@JUNO.COM. Sincerely: Ron Taylor ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:31:53 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Beeworks Subject: Re: Thick brown gob In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.16.19970309210929.3f8fb9ea@tco.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 9 Mar 97 at 21:15, Daniel D. Dempsey wrote: Thick brown gob > I checked it 2 weeks ago and it was building slow, today it is in decline > with patches of sealed brood that did not look rite when you open them they > have a thick light brown gob that was the larvae. It will pull out to about > 1/2 Inch, There is NO smell like AFB. We had 2 cold mornings down to 28F > last week. There are eggs in open cells among the brood patches. Before I > put the match to it does any one have any idea what this may be? A couple of years ago I had something that sounds like this in one of our production yards. The sealed brood looks good, older brood has patches that don't emerge. the queen still lays a good pattern so the frames look normal.I put it down to sac brood. After a great deal of fussing around (as nobody knew what it was) I requeened, and that stopped it. Our was a definite failure of the queen! ********************************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:47:43 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: Thick brown gob Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Daniel - I had an occurence of dying larvae and a poor brood pattern like this once. Very much like what David describes. I tried many times to do the rope test, but the remains could not be drawn out of the cells like that. Many of the cells contained remains that were thick and brownish, but not ropy. I think I ended up uniting the failing colony with another, very healthy one, supplied them with some fresh sugar syrup & TM, and they cleaned it all up. I still don't know what the problem was for sure. Sacbrood could have been it. I did not see any scales, by the way. Scales on the bottoms of the cells are pretty easy to see if you are dealing with American foulbrood, and a telltale symptom. You can't remove the scales, once they are hardened, without wrecking the cell walls. I would not rule out foulbrood, but it would be nice to be sure before you either destroy or re-use those combs. -- JG David Eyre wrote: >A couple of years ago I had something that sounds like this in one of our >production yards. > The sealed brood looks good, older brood has patches that don't emerge. >the queen still lays a good pattern so the frames look normal.I put it >down to sac brood. > After a great deal of fussing around (as nobody knew what it was) I >requeened, and that stopped it. Our was a definite failure of the queen! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:52:50 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Donald F. Cesaretti" Organization: Cesaretti and Associates - Security Consultants Subject: New Jersey 'rookie beekeeping' question MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings, I am from central New Jersey (not far from Trenton) and am interested in beekeeping. I was wondering if any beekeepers from NJ that follow this list could send me e-mail info on a begining beekeeper's seminar in the central/south NJ or eastern PA area. I have just started to read and learn about beekeeping and being a beekeeper (about two-three weeks ago!) so I definately know that I am not going to be prepared for this season to start anything in the way of a begining hive however I would like to learn and explore, gaining enough knowledge to be prepared from next season. Thanks for the time and assistance! Don Cesaretti ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 20:46:14 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Re: Pollen Traps Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I second that . Bill Bee ---------- > From: Aaron Morris > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Pollen Traps > Date: 10 mars, 1997 04:15 > > I was very happy with the merchandise and service I received from > Stauffer's Beehives - Superior Pollen Traps - Money Back Guarantee. > > Available via mail only, no phone, let alone e-mail! But product and > service was top notch and the trap worked extremely well! Price per > trap was in the $40 range. I highly recommend Staufer's! > > Write to: > David S. Martin, Proprietor > RD 1 Box 489 > Port Trevorton, > Pennsylvania 17864-9799 > > DISCLAIMER: No stock, just a VERY satisfied customer. > > Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 22:04:42 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Love Mankind; Can't Stand People.......Carolina Report What a gorgeous day! Eighty degrees, and tons of blossoms. Azaleas, wisteria, redbud, crab apple, pears, wild plums, yellow jasmine, anise hyssop, dewberries, huckleberries. Bees are happily working, though there is nowhere near the nectar flow that one would expect from the quantity of bloom. Perhaps the winter has been too mild to set the blossoms. One of the best yielding plants, anise hyssop, is rapidly being removed, as farmers cut the fields to plant corn. Life would be just about perfect on these lovely spring days, if it weren't for some people! This morning the zoning officer stopped to tell us we can't park our trucks and trailers at our honey house, because "outdoor storage isn't allowed." Huh? One of our bee yards has had a local testosterone-crazed jockey run through with a four wheel drive and crush some hives and equipment. I hope he got nails in his tires. Janice put a bait hive on a mobile home near here. Scout bees are looking over the cracks in the walls, so there must be swarmy bees nearby. The owner is terrified. He is desperate for us to remove them or poison them. We have reassured him that they aren't interested in him, just looking for a home, and the bait hive is the best chance of avoiding them winding up in a wall. Otherwise we've just got to wait and let nature take it's course. Today, the scouts were running in and out the bait hive, and seemed to have lost interest in the trailer, so we have high hopes. But they haven't moved in yet. This afternoon a lady stopped and was frantic because the bees were "swarming" in her bushes. She was spraying them with Raid, but that didn't seem to stop them, so she called on us. She had a hedge of Chinese holly in full bloom. Bees LOVE this plant, and they were foraging on it in large numbers. I chewed her out as gently as I could, but didn't feel so kindly. "Lady, that's the way nature works! You want nice red berries on your holly to make them pretty this fall, don't you? Well the bees have to come and pollinate the blossoms, if you are going to have berries. And if you kill the bees, what will the birds eat? And you are killing the "livestock" of the bee farmer, who owns the bees! (I know the beekeepers, a young couple, struggling to get started in bees.) There's not the slightest reason to be terrified. They are not interested in you at all. They are just gathering their food, while doing you some good by accident." Etc. Sheesh...... Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) Pollination for lay people, students, teachers ....Of bees, beekeepers, and food http://users.aol.com/queenbjan/primbees.htm Pollination for the pros - those involved in doing it: Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Varietal Honeys and Gift Sets http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 22:08:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "William J. Morrison" Subject: Re: Starvation amidst plenty Comments: To: David Eyre In-Reply-To: <199703051734.MAA05290@segwun.muskoka.net> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT David, Sorry for the delay in getting back to this thread. I checked the upper one of the two deeps in which this colony was wintering. It was chock full o' nice honey from a good summer flow. The bees had apparently eaten about a third of the middle and upper portions of about five of the middle frames. Then they moved up through the slot in the intervening inner cover into the two extracted shallow supers. I suppose this is an example of a set up to which the bee has not evolved a proper response. We bumbling beekeepers excell at creating such set ups. Bill Morrison On Wed, 5 Mar 1997, David Eyre wrote: > On 4 Mar 97 at 11:26, William J. Morrison wrote: Starvation amidst plenty > > > Never store empty supers above a slotted inner cover. That's what I did > > and the result was the starvation of a nice colony of bees. There was > > plenty of honey in two deep hive bodies below, but during the late winter > > they moved up into the two shallow supers that I had put on to be cleaned up. > > The probable reason for the movement of the cluster upward through the slot > > (size = approx. 4 cm X 12 cm) into the empties was probably the fact that > > is was warmer there on a sunny winter day. The lesson is that cluster and > > honey stores must not be separated in cold weather. > > While I don't argue with the lesson, stated in the last line, I might > question the cause of the starvation. > If the cluster, (possibly not fed in the fall) started off too high in > the brood chambers. Then during the course of the winter the bees can only > go upwards looking for stores, of course, if there is no stores above then > starvation results. > I have seen hives, dead, up against the inner cover with lots of stores > below and off to one side. > My thoughts are that lots of fall feed drives the cluster down creating > the ideal cluster position. Low down in the bottom box, with lots of > stores above. > Comments! > > > ********************************************************* > The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, > Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 > David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 > Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK > http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks > ********************************************************* > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 00:19:24 -0800 Reply-To: mwr@hotcity.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: the mystery of swarm landings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anybody have a good explanation for how a swarm decides where to land when the scouts haven't located a new home in time? Back at the end of February I reported my first swarm of the season. Today I got my second swarm from a spot not more than 6 inches from the spot where I found the first one. The bush is a Cotoneaster. It's about 5 feet tall and in full sun on a residential street corner in the middle of town. One of the locals told me that there are a minimum of 2 or 3 swarms in that same bush every year. I've seen similar 'favorite landing spots' before, and am fascinated and baffled by how consistently they can be chosen over other seemingly very similar locations in the same area. Michael Reddell mwr@hotcity.com http://www.hotcity.com/~mwr ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 00:24:24 -0800 Reply-To: mwr@hotcity.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: Love Mankind; Can't Stand People.......Carolina Report MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit David Green wrote: > > What a gorgeous day! ... I'll second that! A hive tipper has discovered our 4-H project yard. I've always insisted on gentle stock but this makes a guy want to find a really nasty colony to stand guard. Michael Reddell mwr@hotcity.com http://www.hotcity.com/~mwr ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:50:19 UT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: S Subject: Re: A few questions Joel, Thanks for your encouragement - it is much appreciated! I would like to receive further information on your "simple" method for crushing comb and removing honey, so please e-mail me or post to the list. I can't wait to join the ranks of America's beekeepers! Susan Starr Claremoor@msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 15:36:54 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kimberly Pace Subject: BEES Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am interested in receiving information about bees and beekeepping, particularly with regard to bee venom therapy. Thank you! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 09:20:36 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: A few questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Okay, Susan. Basically the method I will describe involves mashing the full honeycombs through a heavy, wide-mesh screen with a paddle, so that all of the cells are ruptured well. (You could also hand-crush them but this is easier and not so sticky!) The wax and honey fall through the screen together, onto a finer mesh material, and then the honey drains through that into the bottom of the container below, just by *gravity*. (This is a method I found recommended in a very old beekeeping book, and I have been pleased to find that it works great (besides being really cheap!).) After several hours, almost all of the honey has drained from the wax. Then the strainer cloth holding the wax can be hung outside if you want, so the bees can salvage some of the remaining honey from its surface. What you end up with is a slightly damp mass of beeswax, ready to be rinsed and melted. In the pail you have your delicious liquid honey, which you can cover tightly and allow to settle for a few days. The air bubbles will rise up, forming a foam on top, which you skim off and feed back to the bees. By letting the bees make new comb each year in the honey-frames, your wax harvest will always be top-quality and very light, white - bright lemon yellow, and the most aromatic and attractive for molding or dipping. I'll send you the file later today. Let me find the description and I'll e-mail as soon as I get a chance. Have a great day, and good luck with the preparations for your apiary. --JG, Freeville, NY ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 09:23:41 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: A few questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sorry all, I posted to the previous message to the entire list by accident. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 15:47:50 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Leo Walford Subject: Propolis A friend of mine (and the person who taught me about beekeeping) is writing a book on propolis, and has asked me to ask if anyone has any suggestions for information sources on propolis. I have tried to consult the BEE-L archive, but without success (any help on this greatly appreciated), but would also be interested in any other sources/information/anecdotes etc that people may be willing to share. Thanks Mark Walford (only one hive so far - an extreme novice) London, UK ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 10:46:18 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Frederick L. Hollen" Subject: Re: A few questions In-Reply-To: ; from "Joel Govostes" at Mar 11, 97 9:23 am According to Joel Govostes: > > Sorry all, I posted to the previous message to the entire list by accident. > That's OK -- I at least found it interesting. Filing it away to use if I get any tbh's started this year. Fred ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:01:28 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIDNITEBEE Subject: Re: A few questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/ Joel:That's OK with me.More information that was appreciated.(HERB) ---------- > From: Joel Govostes > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: A few questions > Date: Tuesday, March 11, 1997 9:23 AM > > Sorry all, I posted to the previous message to the entire list by accident. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:02:58 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIDNITEBEE Subject: Re: Propolis MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/ Greetings:check my web site under beelinks. See "hive products". hope this helps. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------ > A friend of mine (and the person who taught me about beekeeping) is > writing a book on propolis, and has asked me to ask if anyone has any > suggestions for information sources on propolis. I have tried to > consult the BEE-L archive, but without success (any help on this > greatly appreciated), but would also be interested in any other > sources/information/anecdotes etc that people may be willing to share. > > Thanks > > Mark Walford > (only one hive so far - an extreme novice) > London, UK ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 12:18:05 -0600 Reply-To: bbirkey@interaccess.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: www.birkey.com Subject: Re: BEES MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Kimberly Pace wrote: > > I am interested in receiving information about bees and beekeepping, > particularly with regard to bee venom therapy. Thank you! Kimberly - Have a look at Mr. Wolf's page at: http://gate3.az.com/~jwolf/ He has alot to say about venom therapy and has links to other related sites as well. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA bbirkey@interaccess.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 22:38:31 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Hans-Ulrich THOMAS Subject: German Bee Book Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello everybody, I am looking for the following German bee book and hope to find it via Bee-L: - Borchert A.: Schaedigungen der Bienenzucht durch Krankheiten, Vergiftungen und Schaedlinge der Honigbiene. Leipzig 1974 Please note that I am not interested in earlier editions of this book. I would appreciate an e-mail should anybody be able to offer this work to me. - e-mail: hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch Thanks for your help in finding this book. Best regards Hans ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 18:58:19 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Damon Subject: Forage Field Guide MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am in need of a good "pocket" field guide(s) of honeybee forage plants. Hopefully one with color photos and descriptions. I have plenty of published works with forage description with B/W photos, however they are of lesser value when out on walks or on a drive in search of locations and/or bloom. I am sure this is due to my need to be able to visually compare an "in living color" photo with the real thing, also most of the books that I have are just to big to take to the field. Such a guide would also be valuable in keeping records of bee yard activities. Also a guide to aid in identifying pollen as it comes in would be interesting and helpful. As a fairly new hobbyist, these are avenues of Beekeeping (identifying forage & record keeping), that every year I say I am going to do a better job at, and always end up disappointed with my progress. I am located in southeastern Michigan, USA. Anyone have any suggestions ? Thanks, Tim Damon Ann Arbor, MI - USA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 19:05:56 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dave's Internet Connection Subject: Honey for sale! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > http://www.common.net/~jurgensd/ > > Hi everyone. > > I don't know if this list is used for selling product, but here goes. > > We have approx. 63,000 lbs of raw honey for sale. > It is Manitoba White #1 honey. Mostly Canola. > > Does anyone know the current price? > Is anyone enterested in buying. > > T & M appries ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:19:34 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Re: BEES Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You may also want to check with the American Apitherapy Society Billy bee ---------- > From: Kimberly Pace > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: BEES > Date: 10 mars, 1997 15:36 > > I am interested in receiving information about bees and beekeepping, > particularly with regard to bee venom therapy. Thank you! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:32:11 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Ralph W. Harrison" Subject: Re: Forage Field Guide Allthough it is not a forage field guide. I find that the Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Wildflowers makes identification of plants very easy with great color photos. Six hundred species are covered in detail with notes on more than four hundred others. The cost is around $15.00 U.S.. Ralph Harrison Western CT Beekeepers Association ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 21:30:34 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Bee Venom Therapy Comments: To: kjpace@micronet.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > From: Kimberly Pace > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: BEES > Date: 10 mars, 1997 15:36 > > I am interested in receiving information about bees and beekeepping, > particularly with regard to bee venom therapy. Thank you! Give the American Apitherapy Society a call at 802-436-2708. You can join for $40 a year. I believe they'll send you a free issue of their newsletter, Bee Informed, if you ask. Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 18:18:22 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: Re: Forage Field Guide MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Tim Just Keep on Keeping on and keep your bees to the best of your ability and make plans to do better. The more involvement the more interesting you will find beekeeping. Aloha from Hawaii come visit Walter ---------- > From: Tim Damon > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Forage Field Guide > Date: Tuesday, March 11, 1997 1:58 PM > > I am in need of a good "pocket" field guide(s) of honeybee forage plants. > Hopefully one with color photos and descriptions. I have plenty of > published works with forage description with B/W photos, however they are > of lesser value when out on walks or on a drive in search of locations > and/or bloom. I am sure this is due to my need to be able to visually > compare an "in living color" photo with the real thing, also most of the > books that I have are just to big to take to the field. Such a guide would > also be valuable in keeping records of bee yard activities. Also a guide to > aid in identifying pollen as it comes in would be interesting and helpful. > As a fairly new hobbyist, these are avenues of Beekeeping (identifying > forage & record keeping), that every year I say I am going to do a better > job at, and always end up disappointed with my progress. I am located in > southeastern Michigan, USA. Anyone have any suggestions ? > > Thanks, > Tim Damon > Ann Arbor, MI - USA ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 23:02:48 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Pheromone Lure Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Bee-Listers: Anyone had any experience with the various swarm lures? I am particularily interested in the lure marketed by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm. Any feedback appreciated Paul Cronshaw, D.C. Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA USA ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 23:21:27 -0800 Reply-To: mwr@hotcity.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: private answers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel Govostes wrote: > > Sorry all, I posted to the previous message to the entire list by accident. I for one like to see the answers to these kinds of questions on the list. I know the traffic tends to be a little heavy but it's frustrating when someone asks a good question and the answer goes off line. For example, I recently started a thread about working with kids in beekeeping. Most of the responses I have received have been personal notes. Some subscribers are not interested in this subject, but some are, based on the private response I've gotten. Most of you don't know about the wide assortment of people on the list who are or have been involved in youth beekeeping projects because you didn't see the responses I got. You also don't know about the fairly extensive youth beekeeping programs in Slovenia, 'home of the Yugo bee'. I don't advocate cluttering the list with personal conversations, but I do think we should all consider whether there might be general interest in a response before sending it to only one person. I routinely delete without reading the threads that don't interest me, and I prefer this to not seeing answers to the ones I am interested in because someone is overly concerned about burdening the list. Michael Reddell mwr@hotcity.com http://www.hotcity.com/~mwr ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 08:03:50 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: Forage Field Guide Comments: To: timd@REEF.NET Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Tim Damon's inquiry: > I am in need of a good "pocket" field guide(s) of honeybee forage plants. ...> The Audubon Field Guide to North American Wildflowers is nice, as it has color photo-plates, and these are grouped by flower type and color. I think it would be a good choice, as you could look up a given blossom quickly by appearance. AFAIK it is the only "pocket" field guide with photos. It is available in the mall-chain bookstores, for a pretty good price, maybe $20 or so. A good investment though, and I am hoping to get one soon. I think that learning to ID the wildflowers that are major or minor nectar sources would be a further, enjoyable aspect of the bee hobby. Spring would be a perfect time to start, too. I'd also be interested if anyone else has suggestions along these lines... Thanks, jg ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 08:45:46 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: BEES On Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:19:34 -0800 bartlett writes: >You may also want to check with the American Apitherapy Society Another good site would be "Wolf's Home Page" entitled "Apitherapy And Me". It relates to his use use of apitheray and its benefits to his MS condition. He would also have some good general info and related sites. http://www.gate3.az.com/~jwolf/history.html For an inexpensive way to start beekeeping you can check out Jim Satterfield's Top Bar Hive Site at: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm Al Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program > Learn About Honey Bees & Beekeeping < Go to - http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 07:56:25 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bently Durant Subject: Re: Problem with foraging bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: rbh > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Problem with foraging bees > Date: Friday, March 07, 1997 8:52 AM > > What do the `bees' do when land on the buffet table? > > Put another way, what do they land on and seem to stay on? > > I say `bees' because honeybees are pretty selective in > what they eat and drink. Wasps aren't. You will find > no bees in a wasp trap made out a weak dilution of > jam in water. Bees don't like acidic solutions. Nor > will you find them (in my experience) on meat or fish. > Rarely will you find a bee in the autumn, when nectar > (sugar) sources are scarce in the holes made in > ripe fruit by pecking birds. (Again, acid.) You > will find plenty of wasps. > > (These observations are limited to the UK.) on the other hand I have seen bees forage in soda cans wich can be ingested by a person quit redily. Bees might also like sugery substances like pudding from a salad bar. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:07:23 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Kevin D. Parsons" <102372.624@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Forage Field Guide I've seen a few people here suggesting the Audubon Field Guide to North American Wildflowers. While these guides (there is an Eastern and a Western guide) do have nice photos, when I've actually used them as field guides I've usually been frustrated. I suspect that some of the very common flowers were excluded because they do not make for a showy picture. The pictures are organized by color which sounds simple, but in practise it is not always easy to know where to look for a particular specimen. The book I now carry is "Newcomb's Wildflower Guide" by Lawrence Newcomb. It only covers the Northeast US to the Mississippi and adjacent parts of Canada. It uses a peculiar system of identification based on number of petals, orientation of leaves and general form of the plant. But, it is very easy to use. It is rare to fail to quickly identify a wildflower with this book. The illustrations are mostly black and white drawings, but I've found them to be very effective for identification. You might want to do what I did. Check out a copy at the library and test it on the first few flowers you see, even ones you know. That convinced me. My copy has a price of US$14.95. Sorry this got a bit long winded, but this book has been verry good for me and everyone I've recommended it to. Sorry it doesn't cover a wider area. Kevin D. Parsons Pittsburgh PA USA > > I am in need of a good "pocket" field guide(s) of honeybee forage plants. > ...> > > The Audubon Field Guide to North American Wildflowers is nice, as it has > color photo-plates, and these are grouped by flower type and color. I > think it would be a good choice, as you could look up a given blossom > quickly by appearance. AFAIK it is the only "pocket" field guide with > photos. It is available in the mall-chain bookstores, for a pretty good > price, maybe $20 or so. A good investment though, and I am hoping to get > one soon. I think that learning to ID the wildflowers that are major or > minor nectar sources would be a further, enjoyable aspect of the bee hobby. > Spring would be a perfect time to start, too. > > I'd also be interested if anyone else has suggestions along these lines... > > Thanks, jg ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:42:32 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Pheromone Lure I have tried the swarm lures from Brushy Mtn But have yet to get a swarm to go into a swarm box with or without them the bees preferring trees and such. (good thing I own a 40ft ladder) The pheremone lures work on the same principal as was noticed in ancient Greece with rubbing a hive with bee balm (not monarda) but m. officianalis to attract the bees. They are cheap enough to fool around with though so I am still experimenting with them. I am convinced the bees are more concerned with box volume and siting though Tom ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:42:13 -0600 Reply-To: dvisrael@earthlink.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Worker Bee Subject: Re: Pheromone Lure MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Paul, I have used the mentioned lures for a couple of years and have had no luck. I ordered two more this year and am going to try again. I want to put them out a little earlier this year. Don Paul Cronshaw, D.C. wrote: > > Bee-Listers: > > Anyone had any experience with the various swarm lures? > > I am particularily interested in the lure marketed by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm. > > Any feedback appreciated > > Paul Cronshaw, D.C. > Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper > Santa Barbara, CA USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 07:42:12 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Roy Nettlebeck Subject: Re: Pheromone Lure Comments: To: Worker Bee In-Reply-To: <3326CED5.5746@earthlink.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Wed, 12 Mar 1997, Worker Bee wrote: > Paul, I have used the mentioned lures for a couple of years and have had > no luck. I ordered two more this year and am going to try again. I want > to put them out a little earlier this year. > > Don > > > > > > > Paul Cronshaw, D.C. wrote: > > > > > > > > Bee-Listers: > > > > Anyone had any experience with the various swarm lures? > > > > I am particularily interested in the lure marketed by Brushy Mountain Bee Farm. > > > > Any feedback appreciated > > > > Paul Cronshaw, D.C. > > Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper > > Santa Barbara, CA USA > Hello Paul and All, I have used swarm lures made up at the U of Kansas. They have worked for me.They run about $ 10 and have enough to do about 8 traps.They use a petrollium base now and it is easy to use.I will see if I can find the address or if anyone else has it , would you please post it.We should be able to get into the U of Kansas computer and the Biology department. Justin down at the USDA research center ( Hayden) in Arizona is an expert in traping.They ran an article of his in the ABJ about 5 months ago.I think he was on the list for awhile. Best Regards Roy ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 11:23:50 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Richard Drutchas Organization: Bee Haven Honey Subject: skunks MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Its that time of year again and the skunks are cleaning up my yards. I hate poisoning the little things Ive heard of using chocolate exlax as a negitive conditioning. Anybody have any experience with this or any other non lethal deterent. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 09:16:29 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Kriston M. Bruland" Subject: Re: Pheromone Lure In-Reply-To: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" "Re: Pheromone Lure" (Mar 12, 9:42am) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii On Mar 12, 9:42am, (Thomas) (Cornick) wrote: > Subject: Re: Pheromone Lure > I have tried the swarm lures from Brushy Mtn > But have yet to get a swarm to go into a swarm box with or without them > the bees preferring trees and such. I too tried the Brushy Mountain lure and at least four swarms passed it up. I caught two of them in trees later, with no help from the lure. I set the trap with the lure in a tree near a large wild colony. The bees completely ignored it when they swarmed as they do every spring. Later, I set a trap with a lure in it near a swarm from one of my own colonies. This was ignored too. I'm not going to buy any more of these. Kris Bruland Member of Mt. Baker Beekeepers Association Bellingham, WA U.S.A. kbruland@violet.chem.wwu.edu ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 12:20:00 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "George W.D. Fielder" Subject: Re: stinger@together.net: skunks BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU +++++ You wrote > skunks are cleaning up my yards. I >hate poisoning the little things I've heard of using chocolate exlax as a >negitive conditioning. Anybody have any experience with this or any >other non lethal deterent. I have used thin boards (.25" plywood, cedar shingles, etc.) with 1.5 or 2" nails driven through them then laid around the entrance of the hives with the sharp protruding nails upwards. It was effective enough to convince the skunks to visit other hives for their snacks. Eventually when most peripheral hives had the boards the skunks stopped bothering my apiary. I do not think the skunks were even hurt for I never detected their alarm odor as I have when they encountered an electric fence.. george fielder ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 13:15:40 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIDNITEBEE Subject: Queen rearing course/Penn State course beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/ I just received this message; ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- AG 5126 is a Independent Learning (correspondence) course on Beekeeping offered by Penn State Univ. It is a non-credit course. For more information contact: Penn State univ., Dept of Distance Education, Independent Learning Program, 207 Mitchell Building, University Park, PA 16802 . Phone: 814-865-3443. We will be offering a two day regional short course on Queen Rearing in Light of Mite and Disease Control. This course will take place in Berkeley Springs WV on April 4th and 5th. For more information or to register please contact Keith Tignor, Dept of Entomology, 216 Price Hall VPI & SU, Blacksburg, VA 24061. Phone: 703-231-9402 email: tignor@vt.edu. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 14:59:32 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: "The HoneyBee" Web Site As most of you know, the Educational Software Program "The HoneyBee" Version 2.1 is now available on my web site at: http://www.xensei.com/alwine Unfortunately, it is not a "Mac Program". The purpose of this site (as well as the freeware program "The HoneyBee") is to educate the public about Honey Bees and their value to all mankind! It is also to encourage folks to take up Beekeeping. This is a constantly evolving site, changed quite a bit since I first put it up about March 1st. The "Let's Go Surfing For Bees" page is not intended to be a comprehensive listing of the many fruitful sites dedicated to Bees and Beekeeping. It is intended to provide the public a "sampling" of information, that is hopefully appealing and which will help educate them on the benefit of not reacting to the sight of a Honey Bee with a "Oh, my gawd it's a bee. Kill it before it stings us!" :-) To date I only have "four" sites on this page illustrated with large icons of my creation. Such as: P-O Gustaffson - For it's beautiful close-ups of bees, etc. Jim Satterfield - For its detailed info on Top Bar Hives - which I offer as a means for someone who can't afford the bucks to buy all the fancy stuff required to start beekeeping. I bill it as "Inexpensive Beekeeping". Allen Dick - Arbitrarily selected as a good place to start checking out sites on honey bees,etc., and to introduce BEE-L as a good "listening post" and "on-line education about bees & beekeeping". J Wolf's "Apitherapy & Me" web site as a place to learn how apitherapy is helping one man in his battle with the debilitating effects of MS. Also a good site to explore apitheray from. Why am I taking up your time with all this? If at any time, any of you come across a web site that you think may fit in with above philosophy, please e-mail privately so I can look it over and consider including it on "Let's Go Surfing For Bees". Thanks, Al, .... Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program > Learn About Honey Bees & Beekeeping < Go to - http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 15:14:09 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Queen rearing course/Penn State course beekeeping On Wed, 12 Mar 1997 13:15:40 -0500 MIDNITEBEE writes: >http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/ >I just received this message; >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >-------------------------------------------- >AG 5126 is a Independent Learning (correspondence) course on >Beekeeping offered by Penn State Univ. It is a non-credit course. For more >information contact: Penn State univ., Dept of Distance Education, Independent >Learning Program, 207 Mitchell Building, University Park, PA 16802 . Phone: >814-865-3443. More precise information on the above: Do not call the above number, as they will only transfer you to 814-865-5403. The course will be ongoing as "long as the material is up-to-date". You will be provided with a Textbook, A Video entitled "Why Honey Bees" and a Study Guide. The cost is $65.00. I have some "free telephone credits" each month for the next four months.....so....thought I would call and get some information for anyone interested. Al .... Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program > Learn About Honey Bees & Beekeeping < Go to - http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 16:52:35 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Walton Subject: Re: Propolis In-Reply-To: <199703111542.PAA00480@thyme.sagepub.co.uk> MIME-Version: 1.0 In article <199703111542.PAA00480@thyme.sagepub.co.uk>, Leo Walford writes > A friend of mine (and the person who taught me about beekeeping) is > writing a book on propolis, and has asked me to ask if anyone has any > suggestions for information sources on propolis. I have tried to > consult the BEE-L archive, but without success (any help on this > greatly appreciated), but would also be interested in any other > sources/information/anecdotes etc that people may be willing to share. > > Thanks > > Mark Walford > (only one hive so far - an extreme novice) > London, UK Mark, This is from the "Bee Craft" calendar of events. It may interest you. "April 18 - Central Association of Bee Keepers. The Gooding Memorial Lecture by Dr. P. Calder: The anti-inflammatory properties of propolis, at 7.00pm. AGM at 6.15 pm. Linnean Society, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1. Visitors Welcome." -- Paul Walton Email : Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk Toddington, Bedfordshire, England. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 08:39:56 +1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Chris Allen Subject: Swarm Lure Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Anyone had any experience with the various swarm lures? We had a visit once by a beekeeper from Zimbabwe. They use bait hives to collect swarms. Apparently you can see them all over the place when swarming season is in full swing. They generally put the hives up high and "bait" them with propolis. I later spoke with an Australian beekeeper who visited S Africa a few years ago. He says afircan bees migrate naturally twice a year. They migarte (by swarming) from one area where the honey flow is droppng off to another where the flow is strating up. Beekeepers in the area habitually set up bait hives to intercept them. It is likely the Africans can teach us something about this topic. Are you there Afirca??? Regards Chris Allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 18:30:48 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Harvey Hyde Subject: Re: skunks In-Reply-To: <33269246.50B3@together.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII A skunk deterrant that seems to work is pinesol disinfectant/ cleaner. I don't know what the bees would think of it though. Harvey Hyde hhyde@peinet.pe.ca ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 19:26:08 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Donald F. Cesaretti" Organization: Cesaretti and Associates - Security Consultants Subject: Re: Queen rearing course/Penn State course beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Albert, It is people like you who share that makes beekeeping a great hobby! I am a rookie at beekeeping (have been reading and studying for all of three-four weeks now!)and being in NJ, next door to PA, I will definately be calling for their info. Just wanted to say 'thanks' from someone who really wants to learn more. Don Cesaretti Columbus, NJ Albert W Needham wrote: > > On Wed, 12 Mar 1997 13:15:40 -0500 MIDNITEBEE > writes: > >http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee/ > >I just received this message; > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >-------------------------------------------- > >AG 5126 is a Independent Learning (correspondence) course on > >Beekeeping offered by Penn State Univ. It is a non-credit course. For > more > >information contact: Penn State univ., Dept of Distance Education, > Independent > >Learning Program, 207 Mitchell Building, University Park, PA 16802 . > Phone: > >814-865-3443. > > More precise information on the above: > > Do not call the above number, as they will only transfer you to > 814-865-5403. > > The course will be ongoing as "long as the material is > up-to-date". You will be provided with a Textbook, A Video > entitled "Why Honey Bees" and a Study Guide. The cost > is $65.00. > > I have some "free telephone credits" each month for the > next four months.....so....thought I would call and get some > information for anyone interested. > > Al > .... > Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com > Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program > > Learn About Honey Bees & Beekeeping < > Go to - http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 19:30:53 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Donald F. Cesaretti" Organization: Cesaretti and Associates - Security Consultants Subject: Re: Queen rearing course/Penn State course beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm really sorry, members...I'm new at getting used to posting to the list and meant for my reply to Albert Needham to be private. I apologize for the mistake. Don Cesaretti ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 19:50:00 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "George W.D. Fielder" Subject: Re: Pherom BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU +++++ Kris wrote >I set the trap with the lure in a tree near a large wild colony. The bees >completely ignored it when they swarmed as they do every spring. Later, I >set a trap with a lure in it near a swarm from one of my own colonies. This >was ignored too. I'm not going to buy any more of these. I think the bees natural tendency to find a home at some distance from their original (in spite of the swarm settling temporarily nearby) defeats the lure? george fielder -- End --