From LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mon Jun 30 09:10:48 1997 Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 08:57:17 -0400 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8c)" To: Adam Finkelstein Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9704A" ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 20:13:05 -0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jerry Fries Subject: Re: insurance Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" My home owners insurance covers me as long as Im not a commercial beekeeper. In my area I keep to the codes namely 4 hives for my particular size lot and I do not sell honey I ive it away. I could stretch it farther than that but in my case it is not worth it. My home owners insurance is allstate,I also got bids from Nationwide for similar coverage. Check and see what you can get, and how far you can go. Jerry Fries ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 07:36:23 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Insurance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT The insurance question has been being tossed around for a few weeks, but I have seen few price quotes. One of my best customers is also my insurance agent. He commented to me that I should have a policy to cover my business (I thought it was a hobby, but I'm sellin' honey so I guess it's a business). Well, what he thought could be a $25 rider on my homeowners' policy turned out to be not do-able because I keep my bees on others' property. The policy which I passed up would have been $300 to cover my equipment and liability for both sting and product claims (such as botulism). I have since met with a Small Business Developement Center (after all, I AM selling honey so call it what you want, I AM running a business) and their advice was that $300 is a small price to pay for insurance in a business world. So for those who don't keep bees in Scottland, is this $300 fee in the right ballpark? Aaron Morris - The problem with lawyers is lawyers have no problems finding clients! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 14:06:14 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Charlie Bradley Subject: Re: Warding off Carpenter Bees Don't panic! Carpenter Bees seem very agressive and will dart back and forth like they are going to attack but they don't. They do not sting. As far as I know there is no way of repeling them but they can be controlled when they are drilling their holes for nests. In soft wood you will see approximately one half inch holes that look as if they have been drilled. These are made by the Carpenter Bee as a nesting hole. They cut a hole one to one and one half inches deep and then make a right angle turn and cut another two to three inches. They capture insects, place them in the hole, lay an egg on the body and seal the hole at that point. They repeat the operation until the hole is full. The eggs hatche and the larva that hatches uses the insect as food. While the bees do not attack humans they can cause structural damage to the wood. Purdue Cooperative Extension Service recommends using powdered Sevin, an insecticide, and blowing it into the hole with the type of duster that is used in gardening. The bee enters the hole and gets the insecticide dust on them and dies. If the bees are not causing damage in good structures it is probably best to leave them alone. They do help reduce the population of other insects and are therefore helpful. Hope this is some help to those who are having problems. Charlie - - "One today is worth two tomorrows" Ben Franklin (0 0) ===============================================o00o==(_)==o00o== Charles R. Bradley Extension Educator Marshall County Extension Office 112 W. Jefferson Street Room 304 Plymouth, IN 46563 Phone: 219-935-8545 Fax: 219-935-8612 E-mail: Charles_Bradley@acn.purdue.edu ================================================================ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 16:35:52 -36000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steve Diana Subject: varroa and feral bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I am trying to find information about the effects of the varroa mite on feral honeybees and other related insects. Specifically, I would like to find some reports of solid research dealing with: -The effects of mite infestation on feral honeybee populations and/or hive strength. I have one paper by Kraus and Page (1995) dealing with populations in California. I would like to find more. -The effects of the mite on other nectar feeders. I have read some messages on this list that suggest that bumble bees and other insects have become more plentiful in some areas after varroa has wiped out their competition from feral honeybees. Has anyone checked this out? Also, how susceptible are some of our native insects to the mite? -The indirect effects of the mite on pollination wild and domesticated plants. Many have predicted that this would be a problem, but has it been checked out? Can anyone help me with this? Thanks. Stephen Diana Urbana, IL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 18:01:52 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Removing Bees From A House A member of our church approached me about removing some bees from his house over the winter. Last week we embarked upon this adventure and I just wanted to share the thrill of the bee fever with the list. This hive has lived in his house for over 4 years. I really wanted to capture it, queen and all but the hive is way up in the wall and rafters of this house so we decided to just rob the workers using the screen cone method. I had never done this before but used the directions in Harry and Ormond Aebi's book. The first task was to secure the loose board that gave the bees access to the house in the first place. It had too long a seam to block with a screen. After that, I drilled a 1" hole in the board and let the bees use that as an entrance for a day. Meanwhile, I made ready a single hive body with 4 frames from a hive about to swarm. On these 4 frames were 3 swarm cells. The balance of six frames is reinforced wax foundation. I also built a shelf to hold the hive right next to the entrance I drilled. The following evening I brought the split with queen cells to the house and secured the screen cone. At the base the cone is about 4" in diameter. At the mouth the cone is about 3/4 " in diameter and it is about a foot long. The first week went well. The bees seemed to find the new hive after giving up on getting back in the house. I was out of town for Easter weekend and checked on the hive last night. The bees had found a small depression where the board that I secured didn't meet the house without leaving the smallest crack. They were using it as an entrance. This morning, I went at sun up and sealed this crack. An hour later we were back in business. >From this explanation is there anything I could have done better? Did I do anything wrong? I really wanted to order a queen for this project but everyone I called was booked until late May or June. I think the foragers from the hive in the house would more readily join a hive with a viable queen rather than just queen cells How long should I wait before removing the screen and letting the bees rob out the house? I have been told to wait 3 weeks and 6 weeks. Did I do the right thing by waiting until spring? I assume that the stores in the house would be at their lowest right now. The home owner just wanted rid of the bees. Ted Wout, 3rd year beekeeper, 10 hives Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 03:00:15 -0800 Reply-To: aKia@aKia.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: aKia Organization: The Hunting Club Subject: not dead yet MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gordon N. Stowe wrote: > > Dear W. G., > > I have a hive that is dying. History is it is one year old since > installation last spring. Honey crop was good this fall of about 3 > supers. The hive is essentially unattended during the summer as it is at > a seasonal residence in Arizona. On returning to Arizona this winter, I > removed the supers and installed apistan strips for about 6 weeks. I > removed them and only then checked the hive for brood and activity. All > this time, bee population seemed very good. On checking, found only > capped drone cells. No workers. The queen either died or became a drone > layer, but not sure which. I could not locate a queen so dumped all > frames on the ground and cleaned them of bees. I installed a queen > excluder at the entrance so her majesty could not reenter the combs. I > ordered a new queen and installed it in the hive about a week after doing > all the above and the queen was released by the bees. I checked about 2 > weeks later for activity, and could still find no brood. So--she was > probably killed. > > Now there are still a lot of bees in the hive but unless queened, it is > doomed. I bought a new nuc and installed it in another nearby hive. The > question I have is can I sucessfully place the old hive on top of the new > hive and in that way save the old existing workforce. Or would I be > better to just let the old one die out or possibly dump the old bees on > the ground outside the new hive and it they go in and are accepted so > much the better. I am concerned about just placing the old hive on the > new in case the old hive workers want to do in the new hive's queen. > > I'd appreciate any suggestions. > > Gordon S. Hi, maybe... put the nuc on the bottom...put a top board on it...put a super of empty frames above that (new/used...maybe used would be better...I can see both ways)...put a sheet of newspaper with a slit or two on the top...put a top board over that...preferably one of them with a little half moon cut in one end...put it CUT UP (give the top bees their own entrance and exit...let's not force anything)...and put the queenless hive on top of that. the bees smells will intermingle...but they can't just immediately go at each other...they have to eat thru the paper...and you've given them a hive of buffer...but I'm unsure which would be best...new foundation...'cause it wouldn't really exactly smell like either...or extracted because it would be more bee-like...I'm inclined to go for the new foundation...a no bee land...as a buffer until they get used to each other...then over a couple of weeks remove the extra top covers. give it a shot and report back. -- >>>>==akia@magibox.net=*>>> By US Code Title 47, Sec.227(a)(2)(B), a computer/modem/printer meets the definition of a telephone fax machine. By Sec.227(b)(1)(C), it is unlawful to send any unsolicited advertisement to such equipment. By Sec.227(b)(3)(C), a violation of the aforementioned Section is punishable by action to recover actual monetary loss, or $500, whichever is greater, for each violation. All incoming unsolicited commercial traffic will therefore be billed at a rate of $500 per msg to compensate for loss of service. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 16:29:42 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F8rn_Johanesson?= Subject: beekeeping software MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear beekeeping fellows. Sorry! I am pointed out that my writing of the URL address is wrong! So to help those who is interested to get in touch with the software I resend this message. Plise forgive me if I waste some bandwide with it. I know this list is for discussing beekeeping, so let us get back to this. Now and then I have seen requests about beekeeping software! EDBi a Danish beekeeper foundation have 1987 started developing a practical beekeeping software, with help from practical beekeepers in Denmark,Sweden, Suomi/Finland, Germany and some other countries. the result is a multilingual software developed for the beekeeper society in the western world. It is software running on the windows platform, both win 3.+ and win95/NT What use do you have from it! First of is will standardise your hivenotes, in a way that will limited the notes needed for the practical beekeeping. This standardisation will also make it possible for you to cooperage with other beekeepers in queen breeding. You can enter the notes You have collected for each beehive into a database (paradox for windows). By the end of the bee year you then can calculate an Index on each family. This index can be helpful in your selection of the queens to go on with. You can call up a spreadsheet like window with the queen sisters, and thereby have a direct comparison of their data. those data can be shown in a graphical way, making it more easy to compare the queens. You will also have a database with disease and its treatment connected to each beehive, making it more easy for you to keep track on results of your treatment. to each hive you can connect other software if they are OLE compliant. e.g. excel and winword, or a sound software if you like. The ability is only limited to the software installed on your computer. as an extra add-on you have a pollen database with 8000 angelic/Latin names on plants. From this you can build up a bee plant flora with pictures and pollen photos. How do You get this software : Internet on http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/edbi.htm you will get a 60days or 20 runs demo software that will allow you to try it out. If you like the software and want to use it, you will have to pay a registration fee for it. this fee is used to keep the developing on the software to continue, so that it can be as perfect and useably as possible. As registered user you have influence on the developing, and will receive free updates of the software for a period of two years. People contributing with language translation will of course get the software for free. for now the software is using the following languages: Danish, German, Swedish, Finnish, French, Spanish, Dutch, English but more languages will be very welcome :-) If you are participating in the Apimondia Congress in Belgium you can look for the presentation/demonstration of the software. I will be present there with my computer, and also representing the BEENET communication society. best regards to all of you Jorn Johanesson Author of the software 'Bidata' e-mail : apimo@post4.tele.dk ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 09:48:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Palm, Kevin R. (LLP)" Subject: Re: Warding off Carpenter Bees Dave, I love nature, and especially bees, but I have a similar dilemma. I live in a log house, and every year I get new holes in my house caused by Carpenter Bees. Believe me, I hate the idea of killing ANY of our native pollinators, as I have a garden which I enjoy, but this becomes a real problem. Is there some way of luring them to drill into "bait" wood, similar to trapping Orchard Bees, or am I going to have to take care of them some other way?? :-( Any suggestions would be most helpful!! Kevin Palm Grafton, Ohio ---------- From: David Green To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: Re: Warding off Carpenter Bees Date: Monday, March 31, 1997 7:05PM Congratulations! You have a valuable treasure! You can be sure your early bloom (pears, peaches, strawberries, plums, etc.) will get pollinated. Carpenter bees are curious, friendly, playful bees. They will NOT sting, unless there is extreme provocation. (I have batted them gently with my hands, and never had a sting!) You can play with them, when they hover in front of you, and they will "mirror" your motions. So relax, enjoy! There is no need to be a prisoner in your own home. Come on out and watch one of the wonders of the world! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:00:54 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Warding off Carpenter Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT The advice to spray sevin into the holes drilled by carpenter bees certainly will take care of the bees. However, seems to me that it would be a minimal amount more work to squirt calk in the holes after the carpenter bees have moved on. Submitted for your approval, Aaron Morris ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 11:33:19 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Beeworks Subject: Re: No lost bees In-Reply-To: <9703280035.AA07349@eagle1.eaglenet.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 27 Mar 97 at 19:39, bartlett wrote: No lost bees > For you people that say you had a good overwintering with your bees, > how about coming back and telling the rest of us what you did that > worked for you to get your bees through the winter. Let's see if we > can find some common threads. For me the answer is fairly simple! Since I introduced ventilation to our hives we haven't lost one in the winter. I believe in the old adage 'bees don't freeze to death, dampness and starvation are the killers'. In 1883 Langstroth and Doolittle were discussing the merits of winter ventilation, so it's not a new idea. For those who who want a dissertation on ventilation, I would suggest a visit to our Home Page! Other areas we concentrate on. Fall feeding, don't be cheap, syrup is cheaper than replacement. We re-queen every two years, regardless. Unless it's a breeder queen of distinction. Wrap only with black tar paper. The use of plastic of any sort is strictly 'Taboo', as it prevents the hive from breathing. Finally pick an area that doesn't have mites. ;-)) Perhaps when they come to our area, we might not be so lucky! ********************************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 08:01:56 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "H, Tortsgnal" Subject: new species of Apis in America? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have noticed that a swarm has taken over an empty hive in one of my more remote outyards. The bees seem much more similar to honeybees than to bumblebees even though they are even _bigger_ than the largest bumblebee that I have ever seen. Each is approximately twice the girth and a little longer than an average man's thumb! The colony at present occupies two standard bodies in which they have removed the old comb and constructed their own comb (in which the cells are nearly the size of shot glasses!). The bees are very gentle and seem completely free of disease and thus far are bringing in a super of honey each day-- rather unusual at this time of year). Could these bees be A. labioriosa, "the giant honeybee"? I'd heard these bees build only single combs and will not live in boxes and seem smaller by half than the bees I have. I'm going to try to make some splits soon to try to increase the numbers of these bees. Does anyone have any idea how I can find more information on these giant bees? H. Tortsgnal Avalon Apiaries Victoria, BC ux889@freenet.victoria.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:48:48 -0800 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: new species of Apis in America? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The bee is similar to one we see here in Maine. I heard it is common in Alaska and the Yukon and with a good strong winter storm can blow down into lower Canada and the northern US. Biggest problem with them is the winter honey ferments rapidly, but if you position the hive east-west, the southern side that catches the sun will give a great fermentation which when extracted is instant meade, which seems appropriate since the cells are the size of shot glasses. You won't be able to keep the bees long, because they return north, back to their normal habitat, by hitching rides on migrating geese and ducks. Enjoy them while you can. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:05:59 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kenny W Bailey Subject: Re: new species of Apis in America? In-Reply-To: "H, Tortsgnal" "new species of Apis in America?" (Apr 1, 8:01am) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii If you have a colony of these bees, consider yourself lucky, especially if you live in Bear country. This species of bee is the only species capable of successfully defending its hive from bear attacks. Not only will they defend their own hives, but they will come to the defense of the entire yard. A couple of well placed colonies of "the giant honey bee" within the apiary, is a better defense against bears than any fence that can be built. On Apr 1, 8:01am, H, Tortsgnal wrote: > Subject: new species of Apis in America? > I have noticed that a swarm has taken over an empty hive in one of my more > remote outyards. The bees seem much more similar to honeybees than to > bumblebees even though they are even _bigger_ than the largest bumblebee > that I have ever seen. Each is approximately twice the girth and a little > longer than an average man's thumb! The colony at present occupies two > standard bodies in which they have removed the old comb and constructed > their own comb (in which the cells are nearly the size of shot glasses!). > The bees are very gentle and seem completely free of disease and thus far > are bringing in a super of honey each day-- rather unusual at this time of > year). Could these bees be A. labioriosa, "the giant honeybee"? I'd heard > these bees build only single combs and will not live in boxes and seem > smaller by half than the bees I have. I'm going to try to make some splits > soon to try to increase the numbers of these bees. > > Does anyone have any idea how I can find more information on these giant bees? > > H. Tortsgnal > Avalon Apiaries > Victoria, BC > ux889@freenet.victoria.bc.ca >-- End of excerpt from H, Tortsgnal -- Kenny W Bailey E-Mail : kbailey@cumberla Internet: kbailey@cumberla.ces.ncsu.edu Phone : (910) 484-7156 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:40:34 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: (FRe: new species of Apis in America? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I guess the cat is out of the bag. We have been developing these giant bees in secret and had planned to reveal them shortly, however it is obvious that they must have swarmed when the temperature got up around freezing in January and it looks like one swarm stayed fairly close to home and only went to Vancouver Island. However, the one that got to the East Coast made a more typical migration. Actually, I think the ones on the Island are probably hybrids, since the pure strain does not make comb, but rather puts the honey directly into drums. Usually we try to control swarming by putting on several more drums on each hive January the first, but it was an early season, so were too busy loading semis with full drums of honey, and got a day or two behind and they swarmed. Some of you may have noticed that the world price of honey has slackened a bit recently. That is no doubt due to the fact that some speculators have caught wind of the production potential of these new bees, and are now driving the price down in anticipation of a glut. Since the secret is now out, we invite all to come and see these magnioficent bees during our open house. However you'll have to hurry; we are only showing off these hives until noon today - Tuesday April 1st. > If you have a colony of these bees, consider yourself lucky, especially > if you live in Bear country. This species of bee is the only species > capable of successfully defending its hive from bear attacks. Not only > will they defend their own hives, but they will come to the defense of > the entire yard. A couple of well placed colonies of "the giant honey > bee" within the apiary, is a better defense against bears than any fence > that can be built. > > > On Apr 1, 8:01am, H, Tortsgnal wrote: > > Subject: new species of Apis in America? > > I have noticed that a swarm has taken over an empty hive in one of my > > more remote outyards. The bees seem much more similar to honeybees > > than to bumblebees even though they are even _bigger_ than the largest > > bumblebee that I have ever seen. Each is approximately twice the girth > > and a little longer than an average man's thumb! The colony at present > > occupies two standard bodies in which they have removed the old comb > > and constructed their own comb (in which the cells are nearly the size > > of shot glasses!). The bees are very gentle and seem completely free of > > disease and thus far are bringing in a super of honey each day-- rather > > unusual at this time of year). Could these bees be A. labioriosa, "the > > giant honeybee"? I'd heard these bees build only single combs and will > > not live in boxes and seem smaller by half than the bees I have. I'm > > going to try to make some splits soon to try to increase the numbers of > > these bees. > > > > Does anyone have any idea how I can find more information on these > > giant > bees? > > > > H. Tortsgnal > > Avalon Apiaries > > Victoria, BC > > ux889@freenet.victoria.bc.ca > >-- End of excerpt from H, Tortsgnal > > > > -- > Kenny W Bailey > E-Mail : kbailey@cumberla > Internet: kbailey@cumberla.ces.ncsu.edu > Phone : (910) 484-7156 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 17:33:22 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gordon Scott Subject: Basingstoke Beekeeper -- March issue MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In the rush of other things over the last couple of weeks, I forgot to announce the March '97 BB. March '97 Basingstoke Beekeeper Regards, -- Gordon Scott gordon@apis.demon.co.uk gordon@multitone.co.uk (work) The Basingstoke Beekeeper (newsletter) beekeeper@apis.demon.co.uk Gordon's Apis Home Page Beekeeper; Kendo 3rd Dan; Sometime sailor. Hampshire, England. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 21:12:15 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Malcolm Tom Sanford, Extension Apiculturist" Subject: Send a message to French beekeepers via email Comments: To: apis-L@nervm.nerdc.ufl.edu Comments: cc: APISERVICES@compuserve.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" April 3 through 5, Ets THOMAS fils will have their annual training meeting with French beekeepers at Fay-Aux-Loges near Orleans. Those interested may wish to send greetings to these beekeepers via the Internet. To do so, send a message to APISERVICES@compuserve.com French is preferred bien sur. Tom Sanford ==================================================== Dr. M.Tom Sanford Professor and Extension Apiculturist Entomology-Nematology, University of Florida Box 110620 Gainesville, FL 32611-0620 Temporarily at: 23 Blvd. de la Republique No. 8 13100 Aix-en-Provence, France ph 33-04-42-93-16-47 email: mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu =================================================== Publisher of APIS on the web at: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~mts/apishtm/apis.htm =================================================== ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 13:43:35 -0600 Reply-To: dlkerl@ro.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dan Kerl Subject: Re: Warding off Carpenter Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit JBeckABeck@AOL.COM wrote: > > This is our first spring living in North Carolina and have found that > springtime brings about a daily swarm of "Carpenter Bees". They swarm all > around our front door & patio. We've become prisoners in our own home. > The ones that hover around yout door are the drones (note the yellow spot on their face). They don't sting. They're really good at tracking motion, since they're looking for something to mate with. The females are the ones that bore holes in the deck, etc. They will sting if provoked. I have yet to find anything short of galvanized flashing that discourages them. Dan Kerl dlkerl@ro.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 14:44:31 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: new species of Apis in America? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I overheard some eggheads over at Cornell talking about an "Apis gargantua," and now I know what they were talking about. Hmmm. It was only a matter of time til they escaped from the government labs. Word has it that the colonies are composed of thousands of queen-bees and a single worker, who forages and feeds them. The worker flies around the world three times to gather a teaspoon of honey, but she can live 5 or 6 years. If you find a worker cell they might swarm, so you have to destroy it. AFAIK they prefer to live under-water, down by the docks, and have been known to mistake livestock and small children for pollen during periods of dearth. So be careful. They can really mess up your car, and you sure don't want to hang any laundry out when they're around... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 12:54:19 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Beemaid Subject: Re: Honneybee, BVT & MS -- [ From: Beemaid * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- I saw a posting yesterday about BVT and MS. I was wondering if there is any other information about this. Thank you, Quentin ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 15:53:18 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Eunice D. Wonnacott" Subject: Re: new species of Apis in America? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I have noticed that a swarm has taken over an empty hive in one of my more >remote outyards. The bees seem much more similar to honeybees than to >bumblebees even though they are even _bigger_ than the largest bumblebee >that I have ever seen. Each is approximately twice the girth and a little >longer than an average man's thumb! The colony at present occupies two >standard bodies in which they have removed the old comb and constructed >their own comb (in which the cells are nearly the size of shot glasses!). >The bees are very gentle and seem completely free of disease and thus far >are bringing in a super of honey each day-- rather unusual at this time of >year). Could these bees be A. labioriosa, "the giant honeybee"? I'd heard >these bees build only single combs and will not live in boxes and seem >smaller by half than the bees I have. I'm going to try to make some splits >soon to try to increase the numbers of these bees. > >Does anyone have any idea how I can find more information on these giant bees? > >H. Tortsgnal >Avalon Apiaries >Victoria, BC >ux889@freenet.victoria.bc.ca > H1 My brother wants to know what is this date????> Personally, I have seen bees, somewhat darker than Italian bees, but otherwise could be described as you did. The ones I saw were hovering above the surface of the water in a private swimming pool, in Pearland, TX, (very close to Houston) in late November, some years ago. I took it to be the verification of the myth that everything is bigger in Texas!! How about packaging up a few (dead) and sending them to me. We are a mite free zone, and importation from mite areas is illegal, but if there is a "clean" way to share these, my snail address is: P{. O. Box 2604 Charklottetown;, PE Canada C1A 8C3 "From The Cradle of Confederation" Eunice Wonnacott ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 15:54:45 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: new species of Apis in America? Perhaps the bees aren't the only species that needs to kick the drones out in November. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 17:27:20 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: zardoz Subject: Polinizacao em plantacoes de MARACUJA Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Tenho notado em nossa cultura de maracuja que as abelhas (apis melifera) n= =E3o aumentaram a eficiencia na producao como seria de esperar. Alquem poderia nos orientar se esta especie eh a mais adequada ou existe outra que se adapte a esta cultura, favorecendo a melhoria do processo de polinizacao. Francis Zardoz ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 16:33:43 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: WILLIAM G LORD Subject: importing honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I am looking for rules and regulations regarding importation of honey into the United States. Any references will be appreciated. Bill Lord -- william g lord E-Mail : wglord@franklin Internet: wglord@franklin.ces.ncsu.edu Phone : 9194963344 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 09:50:13 +1200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert Rice Subject: Mite Taxonomic Key Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Hi All, I am trying to get hold of a taxonomic key for the identification of bee mites. Does anyone have such a key or know where I might find one. Regards, Robert Rice email: ricer@lincoln.mqm.govt.nz ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 16:50:10 -0600 Reply-To: bbirkey@interaccess.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: www.birkey.com Subject: Re: No lost bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit David Eyre wrote: > > On 27 Mar 97 at 19:39, bartlett wrote: No lost bees > > > For you people that say you had a good overwintering with your bees, > > how about coming back and telling the rest of us what you did that > > worked for you to get your bees through the winter. Let's see if we > > can find some common threads. > > For me the answer is fairly simple! Since I introduced ventilation to our > hives we haven't lost one in the winter. I believe in the old adage 'bees > don't freeze to death, dampness and starvation are the killers'. In 1883 > Langstroth and Doolittle were discussing the merits of winter ventilation, > so it's not a new idea. > For those who who want a dissertation on ventilation, I would suggest a > visit to our Home Page! > Other areas we concentrate on. Fall feeding, don't be cheap, syrup is > cheaper than replacement. > We re-queen every two years, regardless. Unless it's a breeder queen of > distinction. > Wrap only with black tar paper. The use of plastic of any sort is > strictly 'Taboo', as it prevents the hive from breathing. I would echo what David said. Hive ventilation for winter is as important if not more important than summer. Everybody has their own "special" venting trick but as long as the moisture is getting out of the hive you will be doing your bees a great favor. I made sure all my hives had full stores upstairs by the end of fall. Around here I have never had to supplement with syrup in the fall. We have a good long flow from the 1st of Sept. on and the bees do a good job of filling up the stores. I make sure the store house is full going into winter. I treat for Varroa in the fall too and that is it for the year. These are my two goals for seeing my bees alive in the spring. All kinds of other issues factor in to the equasion but assuming those things are in check, they ought to be there for you in the spring. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA bbirkey@interaccess.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 07:28:38 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: No lost bees In-Reply-To: <33419122.7589@interaccess.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > >Wrap only with black tar paper. The use of plastic of any sort > >is strictly 'Taboo', as it prevents the hive from breathing. Well, plastic is pretty well the only material used to hold insulation for hive wraps in Western Canada any more. Many beekeepers using it have very high success rates. Black plastic is also very often used for an inner cover with as good success as wood. Also many beekeepers in Northern Alberta put black plastic bags over their entire hives after removing them from the wintering building in spring - to cut the wind and draw heat. JPC reports good success from Quebec using only Plasticore for a wintering wrap. In short, *many* very good beekeepers use plastic winter and summer. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 06:06:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: BEE Wind Socks *Something special only a few left. Makes a nice raffle or door prize at your local bee club meeting. ---------------------------------------- I have several very nice, large, Bee Windsocks that I would be happy to send to anyone interested for $20.00 postage paid. These are made in China and I have had one out in the weather for two seasons and it still looks good if not like new. E-Mail me at sysop@beenet.com or at andy.nachbaur@calwest.net if you are interested, and yes I can take a MM or Visa card. *limited supply so only the early birds gets the worm, err bee. ttul Andy- --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ 'All bees are looking for bargains in nature's supermarke ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 10:48:54 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: BEE Wind Socks In a message dated 97-04-02 10:44:35 EST, you write: << . These are made in China and I have had one out in the weather for two seasons and it still looks good if not like new. >> Made in China ? like Canadian honey? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 19:03:42 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jerry OBrien Subject: stingless bees Comments: To: bee-l@uacsc2.albany.edu. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Sir: I am somewhat allergic to bee stings, but would like to try bee keeping. I read that there is a stingless bee that is kept for honey, but is tropical. I would like to know if there is a source for this bee. I live in the Dallas Area, so the winter is short and a suitable, warm wintering area could be provided for the bees. I would be interested in seeing what they could do in this area. They might prove very productive. Thanks, Jerry O'Brien ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 08:56:32 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: zardoz Subject: Re: new species of Apis in America? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > Personally, I have seen bees, somewhat darker than Italian bees, but >otherwise could be described as you did. The ones I saw were hovering above >the surface of the water in a private swimming pool, in Pearland, TX, (very >close to Houston) in late November, some years ago. I took it to be the >verification of the myth that everything is bigger in Texas!! > > How about packaging up a few (dead) and sending them to me. We are a mite >free zone, and importation from mite areas is illegal, but if there is a >"clean" way to share these, my snail address is: > P{. O. Box 2604 > Charklottetown;, PE > Canada > C1A 8C3 > > "From The Cradle of Confederation" > > Cara Eunice Wonnacott O que temos relatado aqui na America do Sul a respeito de abelhas gigantes talves possa ser identificado com algumas meliponas , abelhas silvestres, ou indigenas. Algumas, particularmente as mamagabas, tem um tamanho realmente avantajado se comparado com a apis melifera, aproximadamente 4cm. francis9@ruralsp.com.br ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 12:22:36 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ricardo Cantarelli Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:_Mecanismos_de_seletividade_doespermatoz=F3ide__em__?= =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Abe______________lhasTo:BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU?= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BC3F60.8CC0FF00" Esta i uma mensagem de mzltiplas partes em formato MIME. ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F60.8CC0FF00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by bbs.elogica.com.br id NAA01931 ---------- De: zardoz Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Assunto: Re: Mecanismos de seletividade doespermatoz=F3ide em Abe = =20 lhasTo:BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Data: Segunda-feira, 31 de Mar=E7o de 1997 10:30 > Analisado a quest=E3o da consang=FCinidade em abelhas, principalment= e em >Melipon=EDneos, chega-se a v=E1rias conclus=F5es. Ser=E1 realmente neces= s=E1rio a >manuten=E7=E3o de 44 ou mais col=F4nias para mant=EAr-se uma padr=E3o = aceit=E1vel de >reprodu=E7=E3o???? ( Kerr, et all ). > Tendo-se em vista que em Apis ocorre a penetra=E7=E3o de v=E1rios= =20 >espermatoz=F3ides no =F3vulo, a quest=E3o seria de saber-se de que mod= o ocorre >a seletividade daquele que ir=E1 fun- dir-se com o n=FAcleo, para ent= =E3o >formar o embri=E3o. N=E3o seriam os mecanismos de sele- tividade que = iriam >afetar a prole, com forma=E7=E3o massal de zang=F5es dipl=F3ides???? > Caso algu=E9m tenha algum opini=E3o sobre isso ficaria mui grato par= a >discutir sobre!!! > > =20 Poderia indicar-me a refer=EAncia mais completa da obra que estabelece es= te assunto, ? francis9@ruralsp.com.br ---- Caro Zardoz... As refer=EAncias b=E1sicas iniciais seriam: Adam, A. Bau und mechanisms der receptaculum seminis bei den bienen, wes pen u ameisen. Zool. Jahrb. Abs.; 2 Anat.u.Ont. 35; 1-74, 1913. Nachtsheim, H. Cytologische studies the die geschlechtsbestimmung beidar Honigbiene ( Apis mellifera L.) Arch. Zellforch., 11: 169-241, 1913. Manning, F.J. Sex determination in the honeybee; V. The sperm. Microscop, 7: 303-305, 1950; Snodgrass, R.E. Anatomy and physiology of the honeybee. New York, M.Grae-Hill, 1925 Certo de auxilia-lo na discurs=E3o do assunto.=20 Do novo amigo Cantarelli ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F60.8CC0FF00 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



----------
De: zardoz = <francis9@RURALSP.COM.BR>
Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
Assunto: Re: Mecanismos de seletividade = doespermatoz=F3ide  em  Abe =             &= nbsp;lhasTo:BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
Data: Segunda-feira, 31 de Mar=E7o de 1997 = 10:30

>    Analisado a quest=E3o da = consang=FCinidade em abelhas, principalmente em
>Melipon=EDneos, = chega-se a v=E1rias conclus=F5es. Ser=E1 realmente necess=E1rio = a
>manuten=E7=E3o de 44 ou   mais col=F4nias para = mant=EAr-se uma padr=E3o aceit=E1vel de
>reprodu=E7=E3o???? ( = Kerr, et all ).
>   Tendo-se em vista que em Apis ocorre =  a  penetra=E7=E3o  de  v=E1rios =
>espermatoz=F3ides no   =F3vulo, a quest=E3o seria de = saber-se de que modo ocorre
>a seletividade daquele que ir=E1 =  fun-   dir-se com o n=FAcleo, para ent=E3o
>formar = o embri=E3o.  N=E3o  seriam  os mecanismos de sele- = tividade que iriam
>afetar a prole, com forma=E7=E3o massal de = zang=F5es dipl=F3ides????
>    Caso algu=E9m tenha = algum opini=E3o sobre isso ficaria mui grato para
>discutir = sobre!!!
>
> =       

Poderia indicar-me a = refer=EAncia mais completa da obra que estabelece este
assunto, = ?

francis9@ruralsp.com.br
----
=          Caro = Zardoz...

=           As = refer=EAncias b=E1sicas iniciais seriam:

Adam, A. Bau und = mechanisms der receptaculum seminis bei den bienen, wes pen u ameisen. =  Zool. Jahrb. Abs.; 2 Anat.u.Ont. 35; 1-74, = 1913.

Nachtsheim, H. Cytologische studies the die = geschlechtsbestimmung beidar Honigbiene ( Apis mellifera L.) = Arch. Zellforch., 11: 169-241, 1913.

Manning, F.J. Sex = determination in the honeybee; V. The sperm. Microscop, 7: = 303-305, 1950;

Snodgrass, R.E.   Anatomy = and physiology of the honeybee. New York, M.Grae-Hill, = 1925


Certo de auxilia-lo na discurs=E3o do assunto.
Do = novo amigo
Cantarelli





------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F60.8CC0FF00-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 12:24:49 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ricardo Cantarelli Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:_Mecanismos_de_seletividade_doespermatoz=F3ide__em__?= =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Abe______________lhasTo:BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU?= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BC3F60.DB7C54A0" Esta i uma mensagem de mzltiplas partes em formato MIME. ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F60.DB7C54A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by bbs.elogica.com.br id NAA03074 ---------- De: zardoz Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Assunto: Re: Mecanismos de seletividade doespermatoz=F3ide em Abe = =20 lhasTo:BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Data: Segunda-feira, 31 de Mar=E7o de 1997 10:30 > Analisado a quest=E3o da consang=FCinidade em abelhas, principalment= e em >Melipon=EDneos, chega-se a v=E1rias conclus=F5es. Ser=E1 realmente neces= s=E1rio a >manuten=E7=E3o de 44 ou mais col=F4nias para mant=EAr-se uma padr=E3o = aceit=E1vel de >reprodu=E7=E3o???? ( Kerr, et all ). > Tendo-se em vista que em Apis ocorre a penetra=E7=E3o de v=E1rios= =20 >espermatoz=F3ides no =F3vulo, a quest=E3o seria de saber-se de que mod= o ocorre >a seletividade daquele que ir=E1 fun- dir-se com o n=FAcleo, para ent= =E3o >formar o embri=E3o. N=E3o seriam os mecanismos de sele- tividade que = iriam >afetar a prole, com forma=E7=E3o massal de zang=F5es dipl=F3ides???? > Caso algu=E9m tenha algum opini=E3o sobre isso ficaria mui grato par= a >discutir sobre!!! > > =20 Poderia indicar-me a refer=EAncia mais completa da obra que estabelece es= te assunto, ? francis9@ruralsp.com.br ---- Caro Zardoz... As refer=EAncias b=E1sicas iniciais seriam: Adam, A. Bau und mechanisms der receptaculum seminis bei den bienen, wes pen u ameisen. Zool. Jahrb. Abs.; 2 Anat.u.Ont. 35; 1-74, 1913. Nachtsheim, H. Cytologische studies the die geschlechtsbestimmung beidar Honigbiene ( Apis mellifera L.) Arch. Zellforch., 11: 169-241, 1913. Manning, F.J. Sex determination in the honeybee; V. The sperm. Microscop, 7: 303-305, 1950; Snodgrass, R.E. Anatomy and physiology of the honeybee. New York, M.Grae-Hill, 1925 Certo de auxilia-lo na discurs=E3o do assunto.=20 Do novo amigo Cantarelli ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F60.DB7C54A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



----------
De: zardoz = <francis9@RURALSP.COM.BR>
Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
Assunto: Re: Mecanismos de seletividade = doespermatoz=F3ide  em  Abe =             &= nbsp;lhasTo:BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
Data: Segunda-feira, 31 de Mar=E7o de 1997 = 10:30

>    Analisado a quest=E3o da = consang=FCinidade em abelhas, principalmente em
>Melipon=EDneos, = chega-se a v=E1rias conclus=F5es. Ser=E1 realmente necess=E1rio = a
>manuten=E7=E3o de 44 ou   mais col=F4nias para = mant=EAr-se uma padr=E3o aceit=E1vel de
>reprodu=E7=E3o???? ( = Kerr, et all ).
>   Tendo-se em vista que em Apis ocorre =  a  penetra=E7=E3o  de  v=E1rios =
>espermatoz=F3ides no   =F3vulo, a quest=E3o seria de = saber-se de que modo ocorre
>a seletividade daquele que ir=E1 =  fun-   dir-se com o n=FAcleo, para ent=E3o
>formar = o embri=E3o.  N=E3o  seriam  os mecanismos de sele- = tividade que iriam
>afetar a prole, com forma=E7=E3o massal de = zang=F5es dipl=F3ides????
>    Caso algu=E9m tenha = algum opini=E3o sobre isso ficaria mui grato para
>discutir = sobre!!!
>
> =       

Poderia indicar-me a = refer=EAncia mais completa da obra que estabelece este
assunto, = ?

francis9@ruralsp.com.br
----
=          Caro = Zardoz...

=           As = refer=EAncias b=E1sicas iniciais seriam:

Adam, A. Bau und = mechanisms der receptaculum seminis bei den bienen, wes pen u ameisen. =  Zool. Jahrb. Abs.; 2 Anat.u.Ont. 35; 1-74, = 1913.

Nachtsheim, H. Cytologische studies the die = geschlechtsbestimmung beidar Honigbiene ( Apis mellifera L.) = Arch. Zellforch., 11: 169-241, 1913.

Manning, F.J. Sex = determination in the honeybee; V. The sperm. Microscop, 7: = 303-305, 1950;

Snodgrass, R.E.   Anatomy = and physiology of the honeybee. New York, M.Grae-Hill, = 1925


Certo de auxilia-lo na discurs=E3o do assunto.
Do = novo amigo
Cantarelli






------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F60.DB7C54A0-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 13:23:03 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ricardo Cantarelli MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BC3F68.FE389140" Esta i uma mensagem de mzltiplas partes em formato MIME. ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F68.FE389140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by bbs.elogica.com.br id NAA04750 Jaboat=E3o dos Guararapes - PE 54460-060 - Brasil rd@elogica.com.br ,=20 About the consanguinity question in bees, principally in Meliponineos= ( stinglessbees),=20 chega-se a v=E1rias conclus=F5es. Ser=E1 realmente necess=E1rio a manuten= =E7=E3o de 44 ou mais=20 arrave a any conclusions. Maybee really necessary the manutetion of 44 colonies to maintain a aceitable reprodutions pattern??? ( Kerr et all ) In Apis ocurr the penetration a varios espermatozoons in ovule. The question is know how occur the seletivity these will go with nucleus, t= o former the embryo. How the seletivity mechanisms of ambient will go affect the progeny. Don't this mechanisms what will formed diploids drones??? If anybody have any opinion of this, I very happy of can discursion with this...=20 Sauda=E7=F5es cordiais do amigo Apimeliponicultor. ------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F68.FE389140 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jaboat=E3o dos Guararapes - = PE
54460-060    -    Brasil
rd@elogica.com.br

   ,
=    About the consanguinity question in bees, principally = in Meliponineos ( stinglessbees),
chega-se a v=E1rias conclus=F5es. = Ser=E1 realmente necess=E1rio a manuten=E7=E3o de 44 ou   mais =
arrave a any conclusions.  Maybee really necessary the = manutetion of 44 colonies to maintain a aceitable reprodutions = pattern??? ( Kerr et all )
  In Apis ocurr the = penetration a varios espermatozoons in ovule. The question is know =  how  occur the seletivity these will go with nucleus, to = former the embryo. How the seletivity mechanisms  of  ambient =  will go affect the progeny. Don't this mechanisms  what =  will formed diploids drones???
   If anybody = have any opinion of this, I very happy  of can discursion with = this...

=          Sauda=E7=F5es = cordiais do amigo Apimeliponicultor.


------=_NextPart_000_01BC3F68.FE389140-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 10:34:49 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: BEE Wind Socks In-Reply-To: <970402104644_-501833142@emout20.mail.aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > > These are made in China and I have had one out in the weather for > > two seasons and it still looks good if not like new. > Made in China ? like Canadian honey? Hehehe. BTW, I hear that the Chinese are now very low on honey, but that the Argentines had a very good crop and are chasing their own prices lower. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 14:09:14 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: World Honey Market MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT There is a very interesting article about world honey production in the latest "Gleanings" (March '97). The article ranks the top honey producers in the world and gives the percentage of crop that is exported from the producing countries. Very interesting reading. As Allen points out, production in China is down (reasons sited in the article were poor weather and declining government incentives for producers). From memory, the top 3 producers were China, U.S. and Argentina whereas China is (was?) the top exporter followed by Argentina. The U.S. exports very little of its harvest (around 4%). So with China falling off, Argentina becomes its own biggest competetor on the world market. Figures in the article were through 1995. With all the export figures given it made me wonder where all the exports were going. I would like to have seen a third table ranking the world's honey consumers. But the good news is that demand is at least keeping pace with supply and it does not appear that there will be a glut of honey on the world market in the immediate future, hence price paid for honey looks stable. This jives with price predictions given by Dr. Morse at the Empire State Honey Producers convention in Syracuse last November. One might speculate that with higher prices, beekeepers in the global community will be gearing up for increased production, but so far this hasn't happened. Expanders beware however that this is a commodities market subject as always to supply and demand. Aaron Morris - rambling while waiting for the snow to melt. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 19:56:25 +0100 Reply-To: beeman@kuai.se Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: P-O Gustafsson Subject: Re: No lost bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Allen Dick wrote: > > In short, *many* very good beekeepers use plastic winter and summer. > And a lot of us here in northern Europe use plastic (styrofoam) hives. If there is enough ventilation it doesn't matter much what material the hive is made from. During cold winter days the bees produce far more moisture anyway, than could leave through the hive walls. -- Regards P-O Gustafsson, Sweden beeman@kuai.se http://www.kuai.se/~beeman/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 13:57:23 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Donald Aitken Subject: Re: No lost bees Comments: To: Allen Dick In-Reply-To: <14310769508253@internode.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Wed, 2 Apr 1997, Allen Dick wrote: > Well, plastic is pretty well the only material used to hold insulation > for hive wraps in Western Canada any more. Many beekeepers using it have > very high success rates. Black plastic is also very often used for an > inner cover with as good success as wood. I should be pointed out that although the hives are swathed in plastic, an effort is made to guarantee enough ventilation to prevent moisture build up in the hive. This usually consists of an upper entrance about 3" by 1/2" cut through the insulation and kept open by stapling a piece of plywood with a corresponding slot over the plastic. Donald Aitken 11710-129 Street Edmonton Alberta Canada T5M 0Y7 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 17:01:41 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kim Flottum Subject: World Honey Imports Article In the May issue of Bee Culture magazine will be a fairly comprehensive article on world import numbers, to compliment the article published earlier on production. Arron Morris was asking for that kind of data. We aim to please. Kim Flottum, Editor ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 17:35:27 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Canada: Varroa Find on Vancouver Island MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT PRESS RELEASE Varroa Mites identified on Vancouver Island BCMAFF officials confirmed April 1, 1997 that varroa mites had been identified in honey bee colonies on Vancouver Island. This find ends the Island's preferred status as a source of varroa-free bees for Alberta beekeepers. Alberta beekeepers that have ordered honey bees from Vancouver Island or the Gulf Islands are advised to assess their orders in the light of this new information. For further information contract Kenn Tuckey, Provincial Apiculturist, (403) 422-1789. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 20:28:03 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Steven A. Creasy" Subject: Partially Melted Comb Hello Listers... I have some comb from some shallow supers I extracted last year that is somewhat damaged. There are sections (anywhere from 1/8th to 2/3rd) of the total comb area that are gone from top to bottom. These are generally at the ends of the frames. The remaining comb is in good shape. My question is, will the bees repair this satisfactorily? Will I be able to use it again this year for extracting or should I just melt it down and put in more foundation. The original foundation is wired, and on some of the melted sections the wires are exposed. Steve Creasy- (\ Maryville, Tennessee USA {|||8- Proverbs 24:13, 25:16 (/ screasy@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 16:49:12 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: Re: World Honey Imports Article MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As per USDA Statistics !995 to 1996 U S imports totaled 68.3 thosand metric tons in 1996, up 69 % from the 1995 total.The value of 1996 imports pegged at $110.7 million compared to 1995 value of $ 47.4 million. This is a huge increase in one year and the U S imports have been increasing for many years. ---------- > From: Kim Flottum > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: World Honey Imports Article > Date: Wednesday, April 02, 1997 12:01 PM > > In the May issue of Bee Culture magazine will be a fairly comprehensive > article on world import numbers, to compliment the article published earlier > on production. Arron Morris was asking for that kind of data. We aim to > please. > Kim Flottum, Editor ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 22:09:56 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerry Visel Subject: Re: stingless bees Comments: cc: ob1@PRESTO.NET Jerry, "Everyone" is somewhat allergic to bee stings. That's why bees sting. Beekeepers build up something of an immunity to them, but they still hurt. I've never heard of people in the US working the stingless bees here. (I'm sure people would if they could, but then again, that's what makes a horserace!) Let's see if anybody else out there does. Jump right in there, and get a bee veil and gloves to start with. After a bit, you start noticing what riles the ladies and what doesn't, you'll discard them. (Most of the time.) I hesitated when I first got into it, but bees are really very gentle critters that just don't like to have their house banged around or being cooped up in stormy weather. Me neither. Give 'em a fine spring day with plenty of pollen and nectar (read FOOD) coming in, and you can do anything with them. We have a "bee rock" beside the hives where my eight year old and I sit and watch them bringin' home the bacon! Enjoy! Gerry and the other Visels at Visel7@juno.com Winnebago, Illinois, USA On Tue, 1 Apr 1997 19:03:42 -0600 Jerry OBrien writes: >Dear Sir: > >I am somewhat allergic to bee stings, but would like to try bee >keeping. I read that there is a stingless bee that is kept for honey, >but is tropical. I would like to know if there is a source for this >bee. I live in the Dallas Area, so the winter is short and a suitable, >warm wintering area could be provided for the bees. I would be >interested in seeing what they could do in this area. They might >prove very productive. > >Thanks, > > >Jerry O'Brien > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 00:57:34 -0500 Reply-To: gwalter@massmed.org Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gert-Paul Walter Subject: Re: "Spring" in Massachusetts Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We just had 26" of heavy snow that completely covered the hives. Mother Nature knew it was April fools day also! After being buried 18 hours, they seem none the worse for wear. I wonder how deep they are able to dig in snow to go after pollen? Is spring ever coming? Gert Walter ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 01:10:31 -0500 Reply-To: gwalter@massmed.org Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gert-Paul Walter Subject: Re: allergic reactions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gerry Visel wrote: > Jerry, > "Everyone" is somewhat allergic to bee stings. That's why bees sting. In fact, most people are NOT allergic to bee stings. Most reactions are local reactions to the venom, and these can vary in intensity. Allergic reactions are systemic, ie they involve distant parts of the body. While both types of reactions involve the immune system, the allergic reaction represents a "mis-firing" of the immune system, an overreaction by a system that is designed to keep our bodies free of "bad bugs and evil humors". People also can die from bee stings where the immune system acts appropriately. This is why africanized bees are so dangerous. When they sting by the hundreds, there is a venom overload that can kill. Gert Walter ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 2 Apr 1997 15:05:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: (FRe: new species of Apis in America? AD>From: Allen Dick >Date: Tue, 1 Apr 1997 10:40:34 -0700 >Subject: (FRe: new species of Apis in America? >Organization: The Beekeepers AD>We have been developing these giant bees in secret and had planned to >reveal them shortly, however it is obvious that they must have swarmed when >the temperature got up around freezing in January and it looks like one >swarm stayed fairly close to home and only went to Vancouver Island. >However, the one that got to the East Coast made a more typical migration. We have had these super bee's in Northern California for years, Just ask the Park's. They were developed by the Park's and do not require hauling via truck as the hitch hikers will carry the packages to the customer. The Park's are busy working out the problems in orientation the giant bees so they can be directed to the right address as so far they all have returned to their own bee yards. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ~ If you didn't vote, don't bitch about the government. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 09:14:20 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Marc Sevigny Subject: novice questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I'm relatively new to the list. I constructed two deeps and 20 frames in anticipation for the arrival of my first shipment next week. I've been doing some reading, but I couldn't find answers to some of my basic questions. I live in Central Massachusetts. The weather here is still wintery (below freezing at night, cool during the day (50F on average). Is introducing the bees to the hive typically done so early in the season (we still have a deep snowpack, although that is not typical)? 1. The books that I borrowed suggested introducing the bees in the evening. I assume that means in the daylight before dusk, is that right? 2. When I get the bees and feed them, do I try to keep them warm? Is there stress introduced by bringing them from warm conditions outside into the cold? How is this potential stress minimized? 3. From what I read, they suggest hiving the bees as soon as possible. Should weather be a factor in making this decision? I can hive them the day they arrive, but is it better to wait for the next day or two if the weather will be warmer or dryer? 4. Any good ideas for embedding the wax foundations into the wire? I don't have an electric gizmo, and dont have an embedding wheel. What do-it-yourself methods are practical from things found around a typical house? That's it for now. I'm excited and looking forward to this list's advice. Marc Sevigny Harvard, Mass ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 09:20:56 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dirk Howard Organization: Helius, Inc. http://www.helius.com Subject: Looking for Beekeeping organization in Knoxville, TN MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have just contacted a person that would like to get back into beekeeping. He lives in the Knoxville, TN area. Is there a beekeeping club or association that he can join for help and local information? Thanks! Dirk Beekeeper in Utah with 13 hives -- Dirk W. Howard mailto:dhoward@helius.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 11:35:03 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: Partially Melted Comb In a message dated 97-04-02 21:02:03 EST, you write: << I have some comb from some shallow supers I extracted last year that is somewhat damaged. There are sections (anywhere from 1/8th to 2/3rd) of the total comb area that are gone from top to bottom. These are generally at the ends of the frames. The remaining comb is in good shape. My question is, will the bees repair this satisfactorily? Will I be able to use it again this year for extracting or should I just melt it down and put in more foundation. The original foundation is wired, and on some of the melted sections the wires are exposed. >> I have found that the bees will usually mess up the comb big time, if verticle wires are exposed, but will generally ignore horizontal wires. I have no explanation for this; it's just an observation from many years. When super comb is damage, I cut out the verticle wires that are exposed, and place the damaged comb between two good combs. Usually they will repair it. Most often the repair is in drone-sized cells, but that doesn't matter in a super (above an excluder). If the horizontal wires are tight, leave them alone, and the bees are apt to build right over it. If they don't, you can cut it later. Alternatively you can clean out all the comb and wires, and place it between two good combs, and get a nice new comb, suitable for chunks of comb in the jar. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) Pollination for lay people, students, teachers ....Of bees, beekeepers, and food http://users.aol.com/queenbjan/primbees.htm Pollination for the pros - those involved in doing it: Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Varietal Honeys and Gift Sets http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 12:14:28 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert E Neely Subject: Re: novice questions On Thu, 3 Apr 1997 09:14:20 -0500 Marc Sevigny writes: >I'm relatively new to the list. > >I constructed two deeps and 20 frames in anticipation for the arrival >of my >first shipment next week. I've been doing some reading, but I >couldn't find >answers to some of my basic questions. > >I live in Central Massachusetts. The weather here is still wintery >(below >freezing at night, cool during the day (50F on average). > >Is introducing the bees to the hive typically done so early in the >season (we >still have a deep snowpack, although that is not typical)? > >1. The books that I borrowed suggested introducing the bees in the >evening. I >assume that means in the daylight before dusk, is that right? > >2. When I get the bees and feed them, do I try to keep them warm? Is >there >stress introduced by bringing them from warm conditions outside into >the cold? > How is this potential stress minimized? > >3. From what I read, they suggest hiving the bees as soon as possible. > Should >weather be a factor in making this decision? I can hive them the day >they >arrive, but is it better to wait for the next day or two if the >weather will >be warmer or dryer? > >4. Any good ideas for embedding the wax foundations into the wire? I >don't >have an electric gizmo, and dont have an embedding wheel. What >do-it-yourself >methods are practical from things found around a typical house? > >That's it for now. I'm excited and looking forward to this list's >advice. > >Marc Sevigny >Harvard, Mass > Hi Marc: I also am new to the list but will try and be brief. I started with my first colony in 1946. We learn something new every time we work them. I just dumped a swarm on top of my head this morning. It was about twenty feet up in an oak tree. This is my third capture this spring. We are running about a month early this year. (No stings) 1. I would hive them in the warmest time of day this time of year. Have some sugar syrup ready. (Two parts water and one part sugar. Let this set awhile and clear before using so as to not clog up the spray bottle) Spray them good at least five minutes before hiving. 2. I can't speak for the time of the year. (Being cold up there) I live in Goose Creek, SC and we have already had temps. in the upper eighties here. 3. Waiting too long to hive them will increase the stress. We can only hope for "live arrival as they could get chilled in transient. 4. As for imbedding wire, in a hurry you may consider rinning two strands. One on each side of the foundation. It would help to invest in some eyelets to put un the holes to protect the frame ends. I have used a "fine tinned wire" available in most hardware stores. One type is used for elecrtric fences. Good Luck, Bob Neely Goose Creek, SC neely-bee@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 12:50:54 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Beeworks Subject: Re: Help! Bees wanted. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT A request from the Web which I promised to hand on. A newbie beekeeper in Washington state has equipment but no bees. Willing to pay the going rate! If you can help, please, e-mail him direct at JL32360@aol.com Thank you. ********************************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 12:45:27 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: DncMcCloud@aol.com Subject: Re: Looking for Beekeeping organization in Knoxville, TN The Knox County Beekeepers Association meets every month on the first tuesday. Call 974-0209, John Skinner, for details. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 14:28:54 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: THOMPSOB Subject: Re[2]: allergic reactions Comments: To: gwalter@massmed.org Bees sting as a defensive measure, probably to induce (through pain) the individual (or animal) that is perceived as a threat to stop threatening the bee, bees or hive. All humans are "allergic" to bee venom. The usual local (and massive local reactions) likely represent the normal response to antigen (venom) - antibody (largely immunoglobulin G or IgG) interaction. In most individuals, repeated exposure causes the production of increased amounts of IgG which "neutralizes" venom and results in a diminished local response (the "immunity" which most beekeepers prize.) In life-threatening severe, systemic allergic reactions, (as I understand the current explanation), it is thought that there is an alteration in the usual antibody production such that there is increased production of IgE, vice IgG. IgE is attached to mast cells in tissue and circulation. Inter- action between venom and IgE (which occurs in small amounts under the usual circumstances of local response) produces massive release of histamine from the mast cells. Histamine contributes largely to the systemic reaction - swelling and itching and possibly hives and reddened skin at sites distant to the sting site, airway narrowing/ obstruction, increased permeability of the vascular (blood) structures with loss of fluid into the tissues, hypotension (lowered blood pressure) and shock. Loss of conscious- ness and death may ensue rapidly. Epinephrine/ adrenalin is the corrective agent/ medication. Immediate medical attention is indicated. Massive envenomation, as the result of multiple stings, is not an "allergic" reaction. Rather it is venom "overload", with direct toxic effects. Case reports indicate that healthy individuals may well survive hundreds of stings. Medical support should be sought in instances of multiple stings. I hope that this information is helpful in understanding the various circumstances outlined. I profess no credentials as other than a honeybee-sting allergic (and desensitized) physician who has kept bees since c. 1955 Barry Thompson Rockville, MD ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: allergic reactions Author: gwalter@massmed.org at INTERNET Date: 4/3/97 1:15 AM Gerry Visel wrote: > Jerry, > "Everyone" is somewhat allergic to bee stings. That's why bees sting. In fact, most people are NOT allergic to bee stings. Most reactions are local reactions to the venom, and these can vary in intensity. Allergic reactions are systemic, ie they involve distant parts of the body. While both types of reactions involve the immune system, the allergic reaction represents a "mis-firing" of the immune system, an overreaction by a system that is designed to keep our bodies free of "bad bugs and evil humors". People also can die from bee stings where the immune system acts appropriately. This is why africanized bees are so dangerous. When they sting by the hundreds, there is a venom overload that can kill. Gert Walter ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 17:00:18 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "H. J. Bowie" Subject: Re: Looking for Beekeeping organization in Knoxville, TN MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit DncMcCloud@aol.com wrote: > > The Knox County Beekeepers Association meets every month on the first > tuesday. Call 974-0209, John Skinner, for details. They usually meet (Always since I have been going) at 7:30 in rm 128 of the U.T. Plant Sciences Building (on the U.T. AG campus) (near Neyland Stadium) ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 18:21:37 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: ANNOUNCE: Fairview College Beekeeping Site MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT A Photo Album of Recent Activities in the Fairview College Beekeeper Technician Program is now on the web at: http://localhost/HoneyBee/albertabeekeepers/fairview/ Contents: Wintering Bees in Northern Canada Queen Rearing Project in the Phillipines Central America Beekeeping Project in the Yukon Around the Fairview Campus Students on Practicum & more... Information about the Fairview College Beekeeper Technician Program ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 18:36:00 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Correction: Fairview College Site MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Oooops! I should read my own posts! I gave the address of my local copy of the pages on my own private server! here is the correct URL. Sorry for the inconvenience. http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/albertabeekeepers/fairview/ Allen ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 21:24:49 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Steven A. Creasy" Subject: Swarm Experiences Howdy All, Recently, I posted my experience with my first-ever swarm. It started me thinking. I was unsuccessful recovering my swarm, which went from 20 feet high in a tree to 60 feet high in ANOTHER tree, but I am sure some of the *old hands* on the list have been successful recovering much higher/more difficult swarms. Would you ladies and gentlemen care to share some of your *challenging* recoveries with the more inexperienced crowd? How high was your highest? What was your most difficult? HOW DID YOU DO IT?!? Something said by one of *you* may help one of *us*. It is, after all, swarm season, and nothing is more disheartening than to put time, money, and effort into something and watch it just *fly away*! Thanks, Steve Creasy- (\ Maryville, Tennessee USA {|||8- Proverbs 24:13, 25:16 (/ screasy@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 21:24:49 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Steven A. Creasy" Subject: Waxmoth in Honey Supers Hello All! Do you agree or disagree with the following: Waxmoth larva generally eat organic matter like the cocoons left in the cells of brood comb. If honey supers are separated from brood boxes by a queen excluder 100% of the time, and no brood is ever raised in them, the chance of getting waxmoth in them is nil since there is nothing in them of value to eat. I shared this view at a local meeting and several of the older beekeepers disagreed. They said that waxmoth will eat *any* comb that does not have para crystals on it. I use all deep supers for brood and all shallow supers for honey. I *always* use a queen excluder, and extract my honey. Have I been misinformed? Feedback appreciated! Steve Creasy- (\ Maryville, Tennessee USA {|||8- Proverbs 24:13, 25:16 (/ screasy@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 21:51:59 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Frederick L. Hollen" Subject: Re: novice questions In-Reply-To: <199704031414.JAA01847@limpet.sw.stratus.com>; from "Marc Sevigny" at Apr 3, 97 9:14 am According to Marc Sevigny:> > 4. Any good ideas for embedding the wax foundations into the wire? I don't > have an electric gizmo, and dont have an embedding wheel. What do-it-yourself > methods are practical from things found around a typical house? > > That's it for now. I'm excited and looking forward to this list's advice. > > Marc Sevigny > Harvard, Mass > Marc, If you use ripple wired foundation and attach top and bottom securely in the frame, that should suffice. However, I do like to cross-wire my frames, for both brood and supers. I embed the wires by passing the tip of an electric soldering iron over the wire just fast enough to to heat it so it will melt into the wax. Occasionally I melt a small hole in the foundation, but that never seems to do any harm.BTW, I use a staple gun instead of tacks to attach the wire--staple the wire, bend the end back over the staple and staple it again. Stretch the wire tight enough to "sing" and staple the other end the same way.Install foundation after fastening the wire. Oh, one more shortcut that works for me--I use a staple at the edge ot the hole in the frame end, instead of an eyelet, to keep the wire from cutting into the wood. (Whenever one asks five beekeepers how to do something, one gets six answers, usually all good ones. The ones above work well for me and save me some time in asembling frames and foundation.) Welcome to beekeeping and good luck, Fred Augusta County, Virginia ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 22:33:13 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Steven A. Creasy" Subject: Re: novice questions According to Marc Sevigny:> > 4. Any good ideas for embedding the wax foundations into the wire? I don't > have an electric gizmo, and dont have an embedding wheel. What do-it-yourself > methods are practical from things found around a typical house? There have been some good responses to this, but in the end it's a lot of work! I am switching to all permadent or pierco snap-in plastic, wax-coated foundation. No cross wiring, no *blow-outs* on extracting, no holes chewed through comb, wax moth damage can be cut away or melted and the foundation recoated with melted wax and reused indefinitely. It is a little more expensive, but if you rarely/never have to replace it the extra cost now is worth it. And when I say plastic , wax-coated I do NOT mean Duragilt. I will never use it again. When it is stripped down to the plastic, there is no cell pattern and *my* girls will not draw it back out. I wish someone had told me about this when I started! Steve Creasy- (\ Maryville, Tennessee USA {|||8- Proverbs 24:13, 25:16 (/ screasy@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 06:20:08 +-200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F8rn_Johanesson?= Subject: Bidata for win 3.1, I made a mistake! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear all of you that have tryed to install the win3.1+ or want to try the win 3.1+ edition of the hivenote software I announced. I made a terrible mistake by using winrar to make the archive with. I thougt it was a win3.1 programme but is actual a win95/nt software. Please e-mail me with your postal address and I will send the original installation software to you. or try again in a few days to take it down. I have made a lharc archive instead of , but need to ftp it to the ftp site, and it is not possible for me to do it from this computer. sorry again! if I could I would k.m.a jorn Johanesson -- EDBI = Beekeeping software http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/edbi.htm apimo@post4.tele.dk ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 23:37:01 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Re: Waxmoth in Honey Supers Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Steven, I had all all my 20 supers above Queen excluders on 4 hives last season, extracted the honey at the end of the season and put them back on clean up prior to storing them in my small honey house/workshop. Only noticed a few small single wax moth trails through two combs this spring. Perhaps the waxmoth population has diminished because the supply of feral honeybee colonies has diminished. BTW I began using plastic foundation last season with good success. Paul Cronshaw DC Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper ---------------- prDate: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 21:24:49 EST From: "Steven A. Creasy" Subject: Waxmoth in Honey Supers Hello All! Do you agree or disagree with the following: Waxmoth larva generally eat organic matter like the cocoons left in the cells of brood comb. If honey supers are separated from brood boxes by a queen excluder 100% of the time, and no brood is ever raised in them, the chance of getting waxmoth in them is nil since there is nothing in them of value to eat. I shared this view at a local meeting and several of the older beekeepers disagreed. They said that waxmoth will eat *any* comb that does not have para crystals on it. I use all deep supers for brood and all shallow supers for honey. I *always* use a queen excluder, and extract my honey. Have I been misinformed? Feedback appreciated! Steve Creasy- (\ Maryville, Tennessee USA {|||8- Proverbs 24:13, 25:16 (/ screasy@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 06:43:57 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Judy Spradley Subject: BEE-L:successful overwintering Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" So far, one of the significant elements of successful overwintering is "plenty of winter stores". Could you who have posted be more specific in how much per hive(# and size of frames) for bees in your area? Could anyone suggest the minimum amount for wintering in NW PA? Judy, A Displaced Texan in PA IRON ACRES: Where the water is red & the grass is green! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 07:34:39 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John M Thorp Subject: Marc Sevigny : novice questions Comments: To: sevigny@isis.com Comments: cc: SCREASY@juno.com Hi Mark,You're off to a good start and have all the right ideas. The main basic thing you'll find out thru experience as time goes on if you keep pursueing the pot of golden necter at the end of the rainbow is,-----------do not jump the gun or you lose,timing is everything. Be a good scout,"Be Prepared". Try to find a local beekeeper in your area,though there are a few exceptions most of them will give advise freely. If you have the time to keep bees,allow a little more and offer some of it in exchange for schooling in stings and necter. If you are only planning on a couple of hives try ,forget buying an embeder,too costly plus unless you have the time it eats it up using one.The plastic foundation that Steve recomends would probably sufice. Using the foundation you have now without embeding it will only create a major mess Hope this helps,God bless. Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at --------- Begin forwarded message ---------- From: Marc Sevigny To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: novice questions Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 09:14:20 -0500 Message-ID: <199704031414.JAA01847@limpet.sw.stratus.com> I'm relatively new to the list. I constructed two deeps and 20 frames in anticipation for the arrival of my first shipment next week. I've been doing some reading, but I couldn't find answers to some of my basic questions. I live in Central Massachusetts. The weather here is still wintery (below freezing at night, cool during the day (50F on average). Is introducing the bees to the hive typically done so early in the season (we still have a deep snowpack, although that is not typical)? 1. The books that I borrowed suggested introducing the bees in the evening. I assume that means in the daylight before dusk, is that right? 2. When I get the bees and feed them, do I try to keep them warm? Is there stress introduced by bringing them from warm conditions outside into the cold? How is this potential stress minimized? 3. From what I read, they suggest hiving the bees as soon as possible. Should weather be a factor in making this decision? I can hive them the day they arrive, but is it better to wait for the next day or two if the weather will be warmer or dryer? 4. Any good ideas for embedding the wax foundations into the wire? I don't have an electric gizmo, and dont have an embedding wheel. What do-it-yourself methods are practical from things found around a typical house? That's it for now. I'm excited and looking forward to this list's advice. Marc Sevigny Harvard, Mass --------- End forwarded message ---------- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 07:45:30 -0500 Reply-To: loganv@earthlink.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Logan Van Leigh Subject: Re: Looking for Beekeeping organization in Knoxville, TN MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dirk Howard wrote: > > I have just contacted a person that would like to get back into > beekeeping. He lives in the Knoxville, TN area. Is there a beekeeping > club or association that he can join for help and local information? Other nearby clubs are: -Anderson County, meets in Clinton, TN. Contact County Extension Agent -Loudon County, meets in Lenoir City. Contact me. -Blount County, believe they meet in Maryville. Contact Howard Kerr on Big Springs Road. Logan ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 08:05:26 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steve Archer Subject: Dr. Fun Bee Cartoon Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you can surf the web, today's Dr. Fun cartoon has to do with bees. Maybe one of you "brighter" ones can explain it to me cause I don't get it. The only thing that I see is the issue of flight vs. nonflight and the effect/color on their eyes. The URL is http://sunsite.unc.edu/Dave/Dr-Fun/latest.jpg and you can get to the main Dr. Fun at: http://sunsite.unc.edu/Dave/ steve archer ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 08:20:02 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kelley Rosenlund Subject: Re: Waxmoth in Honey Supers Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Do you agree or disagree with the following: > >Waxmoth larva generally eat organic matter like the cocoons left in the >cells of brood comb. If honey supers are separated from brood boxes by a >queen excluder 100% of the time, and no brood is ever raised in them, the >chance of getting waxmoth in them is nil since there is nothing in them >of value to eat. When I first got started and did not know about the wax moths, I bought 400 supers from a fellow and had to store them outside along with brood frames from my deep hive bodies. ALL of the hive body frames were destroyed, only a few of the super framed were attacked and I suspect at one time those may have had brood. Wax moths have cost me more money than any other disease/pest... God Bless, Kelley Rosenlund rosenlk@freenet.ufl.edu Gainesville, Florida, U.S.A., Phone:352-378-7510 Fax:352-372-0078 200 hives, almost 2 years in beekeeping. 8 frame deeps,shallows. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 21:08:16 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Elizabeth Balogh Subject: WANTED: HIVE BODIES Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Hi Bee-Lister's, I am a beekeeper in Holt, Missouri (midwest). I am interested in purchasing 750 hive bodies, with frames of good condition,reasonable. Anyone in the states, of Missouri, Iowa,South Dakota, Illinois, and Kansas. Please only theses states reply. Thank You ! Golden Colony Honey Farm Ernie L. Balogh 6897 Isley Drive Holt, Missouri 64048 ebalogh@kumc.edu 816-320-3182 (after 5pm) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 13:55:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Waxmoth in Honey Supers >From: "Steven A. Creasy" >Date: Thu, 3 Apr 1997 21:24:49 EST >Subject: Waxmoth in Honey Supers >Do you agree or disagree with the following: >Waxmoth larva generally eat organic matter like the cocoons left in the >cells of brood comb. They do well on nothing but pollen if you want to rear them. Also can be used to clean excluders by adding a handful of pollen and letting nature take it course. >If honey supers are separated from brood boxes by a queen excluder 100% >of the time, and no brood is ever raised in them, the chance of getting >waxmoth in them is nil since there is nothing in them of value to eat. The moths will lay eggs in new comb and will even damage foundation. You can use wax paper with no beeswax to collect the eggs in a cage. >I shared this view at a local meeting and several of the older beekeepers >disagreed. They said that waxmoth will eat *any* comb that does not have >para crystals on it. I use all deep supers for brood and all shallow >supers for honey. I *always* use a queen excluder, and extract my honey. > Have I been misinformed? Feedback appreciated! Well the damage they do to new combs or foundations is not the same as what they do to dark brood combs, but the old bee men are right with the exception of the para stuff as it is much easier to keep the combs in a dark cool room and not use any chemicals. If a beekeeper fumigates his dead outs and has a water cooler that comes on during to cool nights it is possible to keep bee combs in storage for years without the use of chemicals, at least it works here in California. Every climate area will have a different set of problems and conditions so I can not say for your area. ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ If it isn't borken, don't fix it. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 14:09:14 GMT Reply-To: Tim_Sterrett@westtown.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Sterrett Organization: Westtown School Subject: Re: Swarm Experiences The spring after I started beekeeping, I hived my first swarm and, gosh, the swarm was docile, easily-handled, and on a fence post. A week later, I went up a hemlock tree after another swarm. I planned to knock the branch to shake the swarm into a red plastic bucket. I was not wearing a headnet because 1) I couldn't see to climb with the headnet on, and 2) because the books were correct and swarms were docile and easily handled. When I hit the branch to dislodge the swarm, I also, inadvertently, moved the bucket so that the swarm dropped onto my head and shoulders. I came _rapidly_ down the tree, removed (with my wife's help) thirteen stingers from my head, neck, and wrists, and hustled into the shower because I had to go to teach a class. (I live on the grounds of a boarding school.) The class watched, with some amusement, as points on my face swelled from the stings. This happened in 1972. And I did learn to take my headnet up into the tree so I could wear it as insurance before I moved the bees. Many years later, I learned that the amazing secret to collecting a high swarm is to raise a frame with some uncapped brood up to the swarm. A swarm will move onto the frame and the frame with bees can be lowered to the ground. The beekeeper stays on the ground. The swarm's instinct to cover and protect/warm uncapped brood appears to be stronger than the swarming instinct. Swarm-collecting has been, for me, a great and positive public relations operation. (No, I haven't dumped another swarm on my head!) Swarm-collecting is almost always done in front of an interested (apprehensive?) and attentive crowd. They leave knowing a lot more about bees and beekeeping. Tim Tim Sterrett Westtown, (Southeastern) Pennsylvania, USA tim_sterrett@westtown.edu ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 14:19:20 GMT Reply-To: Tim_Sterrett@westtown.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Sterrett Organization: Westtown School Subject: Re: Waxmoth in Honey Supers Steve Creasy writes: waxmoth will eat *any* comb that does not have para crystals on it. ******************* Waxmoths first eat the cocoons. But even in brood frames, the moth larvae eat and destroy the corners of the comb where brood has probably not ever been living. Tim Tim Sterrett Westtown, (Southeastern) Pennsylvania, USA tim_sterrett@westtown.edu ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 11:10:05 -0500 Reply-To: Gerard Worrell Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerard Worrell Subject: Bee Venom Therapy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On 3/29 Jack Iannuzzi wrote about BVT and a couple of books on the subject. For those who want to follow up on the books, Pat Wagner, author of "How well are you Willing to Bee", and a MS sufferer herself is now on line at beelady@olg.com. She can tell you personally how BVT changed her life and how she in turn has helped other sufferers with MS. Jerry Gerard P.Worrell Beekeeper, Gardener,Shepherd worrell@cbl.cees.edu or worrell@chesapeake.net 3575 Ferry Landing Rd Dunkirk,MD 20754-9651 (410)257-3267 Pres. Assoc. of Southern MD Beekeepers Life member MD State Beekeepers Association,VP for Calvert Co. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 10:21:43 -0600 Reply-To: victork@sound.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Victor M.Kroenke" Subject: Re: novice questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Frederick L. Hollen wrote: > > According to Marc Sevigny:> > > 4. Any good ideas for embedding the wax foundations into the wire? I don't > > have an electric gizmo, and dont have an embedding wheel. What do-it-yourself > > methods are practical from things found around a typical house? > > > > That's it for now. I'm excited and looking forward to this list's advice. > > > > Marc Sevigny > > Harvard, Mass > > > I use a homemade battery charger of about 5 amp output. It is about right for brood frames with 4 cross wires. About 5 or 6 secounds heats the wire about right. For super frames of 2 or 3 cross wires I put a length of wire in series with the battery charger about the length of the 2 0r 3 missing cross wires. Lay the foundation over the cross wires but not flat on the cross wires. Let the hooks ride up slightly on the top bar to take the weight of the foundation off the cross wires. The reason for this is that when the cross wires start to heat up they can melt into the verticle wires and short out. This can cause the wires to burn through the foundation. Use a piece of masonite or plywood about 1 inch smaller than the foundation all the way around to press the foundation into the cross wires. Turn off the battery charger and press the foundation down at the same time. Nail a small block of wood to the center of masonite as a handhold to make it easier to use. My charger has an ammeter on it and by watching it you can tell if you are getting a short with the verticle wires and when the wires are hot. The amp reading will start at about 4 amps and taper to about 2 amps when the wires are hot. You can use a larger charger and use a longer wire in series with it. A simple low voltage transformer will work instead of the battery charger. A simple wiring baord can be made using a piece of 3/4 inch plywood. Nail a board across the top about the same dimensions as the top bar. Nail and glue 4 small pieces to set against the top and bottom of the the side bars to hold the frame securely square. Drive 3 nails from the bottom side to place 3 thread spools (wooden ones if you can find some) to run the wires around the ends. Use the same board to hold the frame while embedding the wires. I have wired thousands of frames using this method and it works for me. Vic ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 12:54:16 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ricardo Cantarelli Subject: Re: Polinizacao em plantacoes de MARACUJA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BC40F7.4DECDE00" Esta i uma mensagem de mzltiplas partes em formato MIME. ------=_NextPart_000_01BC40F7.4DECDE00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by bbs.elogica.com.br id OAA16757 ---------- De: zardoz Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Assunto: Polinizacao em plantacoes de MARACUJA Data: Ter=E7a-feira, 1 de Abril de 1997 17:27 Tenho notado em nossa cultura de maracuja que as abelhas (apis melifera) n=E3o aumentaram a eficiencia na producao como seria de esperar. Alquem poderia nos orientar se esta especie eh a mais adequada ou existe outra que se adapte a esta cultura, favorecendo a melhoria do processo de polinizacao. Francis Zardoz ---------- Caro Francis, A quest=E3o da poliniza=E7=E3o em Maracuj=E1s j=E1 foi am= plamente discutida, existindo uma gama de trabalhos sobre isto. Muitos dos quais mostram a pouca influ=EAncia da a=E7=E3o=20 polinizat=F3ria de Apis mellifera, Melipona sp, Trigona sp.. sobressaem-s= e excel=EAntes polinizadoras as abelhas dos g=EAneros Bombus e Xylocopa, en= tre outras. Povidenciarei maiores refer=EAncias sobre o assunto, assi= m que os tiver em m=E3os, remeto-lhe. Do amigo, Ricardo Cantarelli ------=_NextPart_000_01BC40F7.4DECDE00 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable



----------
De: zardoz = <francis9@RURALSP.COM.BR>
Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
Assunto: Polinizacao em plantacoes de = MARACUJA
Data: Ter=E7a-feira, 1 de Abril de 1997 17:27

Tenho = notado em nossa cultura de maracuja que as abelhas (apis melifera) = n=E3o
aumentaram a eficiencia na producao como seria de = esperar.
Alquem poderia nos orientar se esta especie eh a mais = adequada ou existe
outra que se adapte a esta cultura, favorecendo a = melhoria do processo de
polinizacao.

Francis = Zardoz
----------
=             &= nbsp;    Caro Francis,

=             &= nbsp;  A quest=E3o da poliniza=E7=E3o em Maracuj=E1s j=E1 foi = amplamente discutida, existindo uma gama de trabalhos sobre isto. Muitos = dos quais mostram a pouca influ=EAncia da a=E7=E3o
polinizat=F3ria = de Apis mellifera, Melipona sp, Trigona sp.. sobressaem-se = excel=EAntes polinizadoras as abelhas dos g=EAneros Bombus e = Xylocopa, entre outras.
=             &= nbsp;  Povidenciarei maiores refer=EAncias sobre o assunto, = assim que os tiver em m=E3os, remeto-lhe.

=             &= nbsp;     Do amigo,

=             &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;Ricardo Cantarelli

------=_NextPart_000_01BC40F7.4DECDE00-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 12:57:42 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ricardo Cantarelli Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?RE:_Poliniza=E7=E3o_de_Maracuja_por_abelhas?= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BC40F7.C8A09C40" Esta i uma mensagem de mzltiplas partes em formato MIME. ------=_NextPart_000_01BC40F7.C8A09C40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by bbs.elogica.com.br id OAA18498 Jos=E9 Ricardo Rocha Cantarelli R.Maria Digna Gameira 7929, Candeias Jaboat=E3o dos Guararapes - PE 54460-060 - Brasil rd@elogica.com.br ---------- Caro Francis, A quest=E3o da poliniza=E7=E3o em Maracuj=E1s j=E1 foi am= plamente discutida, existindo uma gama de trabalhos sobre isto. Muitos dos quais mostram a pouca influ=EAncia da a=E7=E3o=20 polinizat=F3ria de Apis mellifera, Melipona sp, Trigona sp.. sobressaem-s= e excel=EAntes polinizadoras as abelhas dos g=EAneros Bombus e Xylocopa, en= tre outras. Povidenciarei maiores refer=EAncias sobre o assunto, assi= m que os tiver em m=E3os, remeto-lhe. Do amigo, ------=_NextPart_000_01BC40F7.C8A09C40 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jos=E9 Ricardo Rocha = Cantarelli
R.Maria Digna Gameira 7929, Candeias
Jaboat=E3o dos = Guararapes - PE
54460-060    - =    Brasil
rd@elogica.com.br

----------
=             &= nbsp;    Caro Francis,

=             &= nbsp;  A quest=E3o da poliniza=E7=E3o em Maracuj=E1s j=E1 foi = amplamente discutida, existindo uma gama de trabalhos sobre isto. Muitos = dos quais mostram a pouca influ=EAncia da a=E7=E3o
polinizat=F3ria = de Apis mellifera, Melipona sp, Trigona sp.. sobressaem-se = excel=EAntes polinizadoras as abelhas dos g=EAneros Bombus e = Xylocopa, entre outras.
=             &= nbsp;  Povidenciarei maiores refer=EAncias sobre o assunto, = assim que os tiver em m=E3os, remeto-lhe.

=             &= nbsp;     Do amigo,

------=_NextPart_000_01BC40F7.C8A09C40-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 13:33:57 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Guy Miller Subject: Cartoon Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I would guess if they drink decaf they can sleep, and aren't as hyper as the rest who are working like bees. Guy F. Miller My fashion theory: If you walk slow enough, Charlottesville. VA you can lead the next parade. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 10:37:19 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Chuck Sowers Subject: Re: novice questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The question Any good ideas for embedding the wax foundations into the wire? ------------------------------------------------ A very fine answer from Victor M.Kroenke I use a homemade battery charger of about 5 amp output. It is about right for brood frames ----Many good ideas---then --- Lay the foundation over the cross wires but not flat on the cross wires. Let the hooks ride up slightly on the top bar to take the weight of the foundation off the cross wires. -----etc.---- ---------------- My method Many years ago I found a method in a book that I am sure is long out of print. At the time I knew nothing and since have found nothing better. Use a flat board larger than the size of frame you are working on. Cut a piece of masonite (a thin piece of plywood would do) that will fit inside the frame you are working on and mount it on the base board. The mounting method is important. Insert a small piece of wood under each end (about 3/4 of an inch thick and in the middle of the masonite (about 1 in thick). When you nail down the ends this will give a curve to the mounting surface. Place the foundation in the wired frame and lay it on the mounting board with the wires above the foundation. Heat the wires (I use a resistance coil) then rock the frame from side to side which embeds the wires in the foundation. We use unwired foundation with four cross wires in deep frames and two or three cross wires in smaller sizes. We also use both top and bottom bars with grooves or slots. I have also wired thousands of frames using this method and it worked for many years. I must admit that today we are putting plastic foundation into a thousand new deep frames but we did do about 500 by the method above during the last three months. We also used plastic foundation for all of our new extracting frames the last four years. The Library or your local bee supply should have books with directions and sketches that will give you some ideas to modify to your liking. Chuck Mathematics is the tool that opens the oyster. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 12:13:56 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Re: Waxmoth in Honey Supers I've had limited success with waxmoth prevention and would like to share my method. I haven't used excluders until this year so I've had some brood in my honey supers to attract wax moths. After extracting each super is wrapped up in a plastic trash bag and stored in the freezer for a few days to kill any waxmoth eggs in them. After that they are simply stored in my garage still in the plastic trash bag. The secret (I think) is that I keep a bug zapper in the garage. It's on all the time and kills any flys, mosquitos and MOTHS that get into it. This keeps the flying insects in the house to a minimum. I've noticed dead moths under it. I believe I'm killing them with the bug zapper before they can get into my comb. The reason I call this limited success is because I've only used it for two years. When it's been ten years without a problem I'll label it a success. This is probably only useful for the smaller beekeepers out there. A commercial operation would need a walk in freezer that wouldn't be used the rest of the year. My freezer doubles as food storage for my household. Ted Wout, 3rd year, 10 hives Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 15:17:16 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham >http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/albertabeekeepers/fairview/ I have just visited this site. It should sit high up on your list of sites to visit! Very interesting and informative photos IMHO. Due to its graphics intensity, it is probably best to visit at off-peak hours. Interesting photo of a Kenyan Top Bar Hive hanging in the trees! I also wonder what stops Bears from climbing up on the protected platform? Al Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program Visit "Learn About Honey Bees And Beekeeping" At: - http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program Visit "Learn About Honey Bees And Beekeeping" At: - http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 22:33:47 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: D Warr Subject: Re: Grooming/ mite resistance Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 16:47 18/3/1997 GMT, you wrote: >Nick wrote:- > >That is, bees don't *have* to be exposed to mites, for instance, for >them to have developed some of the defence strategies that would make >them capable of dealing with mites. 'Resistance' may in fact be the >presence of more generalised grooming, housekeeping, sanitary or >whatever characteristics - which may well be present or bred for >without the colony ever being exposed to the pest/disease. > > >This may be a very long shot, but here goes, I think we need lateral thinking (apologies) > >Now, has anybody tried to dump a particle which of a similar size and shape to a Varroa on the >bees, would this entice them to clean off all the particles, including the mites in the process,maybe it could be slightly sticky. Presumably bees groom eachother, especially when the contamination is severe, such as when flour is shaken on the bees ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I also wonder if icing (confectionary) sugar sprinled on the combs and bees would work in this way ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Regards (\ (\ (\ {|||8- {|||8- {|||8- David Warr (/ (/ (/ Lancashire & North-West Beekeepers' Association Ormskirk & Croston District Branch ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 23:34:30 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: D Warr Subject: Save Our Drones Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Does anyone know how long drones could live for if they were not bitten, abandonned, and driven out of the hive. ? Is there any way to keep a group of drones alive over the winter ? Just curious (\ (\ (\ {|||8- {|||8- {|||8- David Warr (/ (/ (/ Lancashire & North-West Beekeepers' Association Ormskirk & Croston District Branch ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 20:44:43 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerry Visel Subject: Fairview College Site -Reply Allen, What a neat web site! Lots of pictures, laid out very well. I like the sequential paging system. Note that image img28.jpeg on page /fairview/Around.htm is kinda squished. It's the one of Dr. Ingmar Fries from Sweden lecturing at Fairview College. Sompin musta happened twixt the scanner and the page! It's bookmarked! Take care, Gerry Visel GCVisel@snds.com (815) 226-6620 Visel7@Juno.com (home) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 22:23:02 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ron Taylor Subject: Visit to Bee City, Cottageville, South Carolina If any of you Beekeepers are traveling I-95 in the lower part of South Carolina, you are welcome to visit Bee City. It's Mayor is Archie Biering. He has a minature city made up with working bee hives which is visited by school children and adults of all ages. If you have a group who would like to stop for a visit his class room can handle up to 100. You can contact him at 803-835-5912. The directions to Bee City is turn on Hwy 61 at the Canadys Exit of I-95. Go in the direction of Charleston. You will cross Highway 15. Continue on for 8 miles ans you will see a year mail box on the left. Turn left and follow the signs to Bee City. Archie and his wife Diane have a wide assortment of honey products, pollen and wax products. After a visit to the Bee City viewing area, the children can visit with the annimals. Don't forget to give Archie a Call on your next visit on I-95 South. Ron Taylor Member of Lowcountry Beekeeper President of SC Beekeepers and Colleton County Beekeepers. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 22:12:50 PST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ron Taylor Subject: Wax Moth Control Wax Moth Symptoms Wax Worms do not kill bees, they just take over weak colonies A wax moth will lay eggs which evolve into wax larve which eats, honey, pollen, comb and equipment. Wax Worms are found in weak hives and stored combs. Treatment for Active HIves: Use a 2 liter plastic drink bottle with a one inch diameter hole cut on the curve toward the top of the bottle. Mix one cup grandulated sugar, one cup vinegar, one whole banana peeling and eight cups of water. Hang this bottle in the beeyard year round. Replace as needed. Use one bottle for every four hives. Treatment for stored hives: Place an inverted hive top in a storage area. Place ten supers or less in the inverted top. Seal the joints between the supers. Place paramoth chemicals on the top super and place a queen excluder on the top hive and cover with a hive top. Keep checking to replace chemicals. About 1 months before honey flow remove chemicals and air out supers. A second method is to stack supers cross each other and keep well ventilated and dry. I used the second method this year and no problem with wax moths in the stored comb. The methos of control was found in old edition of a American Bee Journal and discussed at our monthly meetings. It was nice to share our successful techniques Ron Taylor President of South Carolina and Colleton County Beekeepers. Route 2 Box 669 Cottageville SC 29435 803-835-2482 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 22:23:26 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Brett D Bannon Subject: Queens Mite-Free? I have mite free hives in a isolated area in NE New Mexico. If I order queens that are sent with Apistan-tabs will they absolutely be mite free? I sure don't want to contaminate our area! Thanks in advance Brett D. Bannon bbannon@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 22:23:26 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Brett D Bannon Subject: Pollen Question (2nd time) Greeting to all list readers from Northeastern New Mexico, USA. After watching my bees collecting a light lime green pollen from Siberian (Chinese) Elm for two weeks I have observed my bees bringing in a pinkish-gray pollen. After a bit of investigation I was able to match (using a microscope) the pollen coming into the hives with a small plant locally called Indian Parsley (Cymopterus bulbosus). Does anyone know of a botanical pollen key or discriptions that would assist me in identifying the various plants just by looking at the structure of the pollen? Brett D. Bannon bbannon@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Apr 1997 23:22:37 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kevin & Ann Christensen Subject: Re: Dr. Fun Bee Cartoon MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=Default Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > If you can surf the web, today's Dr. Fun cartoon has to do with bees. > Maybe one of you "brighter" ones can explain it to me cause I don't get > it. The only thing that I see is the issue of flight vs. nonflight and > the effect/color on their eyes. > > The URL is http://sunsite.unc.edu/Dave/Dr-Fun/latest.jpg The bees who drank de-caf, didn't catch a buzz., and so they can't fly. It's as simple as that. Maybe its that 3rd cup of coffee this evening which is interpreting the cartoon for me Kevin Christensen ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 08:32:33 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Greg Hankins Subject: Re: Marc Sevigny : novice questions In-Reply-To: <19970404.071205.9263.1.hallelujah.honey.co@juno.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >If you are >only planning on a couple of hives try ,forget buying an embeder,too >costly plus unless you have the time it eats it up using one.The plastic >foundation that Steve recomends would probably sufice. Using the >foundation you have now without embeding it will only create a major mess How important is cross embedding the foundation if it will only be used in the brood nest? Is the extra support primarily to enable the comb to stand the force of extraction? I plan only a few hives and expect to forego the use of an extractor. I was raised on good ole-fashioned hand-processed Appalachian chunk honey and plan on putting my harvest up that way as well. Greg ____________________________________________________ Greg Hankins Mt. Gilead, NC ghankins@ac.net ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 09:12:59 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Theda Jeanell Davis Subject: New User of this list MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hi Yall, I am a new subscriber of this list and I am enjoying it very much. I subscribed because I am currently setting up my first hive ( I have vague recollections of helping my dad with 5 hives as I grew up in Lampasas Tex many years ago). I am now embarking on doing it myself as a hobby in Granbury Tex. I have gotten many tips from following this list and am now anxiously awaiting the arrival of my packages in 2 weeks. One question and one comment for the list: Question: Do any of you know of any Beekeeping organizations/clubs in the North Texas (south of Fort Worth) area? Comment: Keep up the good work of spreading information and lessons learned and remember some of us are new to beekeeping and are really depending on the information that you are offering. Thanks....... ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 09:00:10 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gregory Worona Subject: African Black Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm told that "African Black Honey" is used to make a certain kind of beer. Is there such a thing (surely not actually black!) or is it a marketing creation? ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 09:24:10 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gregory Worona Subject: "Hey Girls, In Here!"? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yesterday I installed my first-ever packages (2) of bees on a 60 degree cloudy day. After closing up the hives, I placed the package boxes next to the hive entrance. One of the packages had only 20 or so left, but the other had as many as 200. I noticed that at both of the 1" hive entrances there were bees fanning, and as soon as the 20 made it in, they quit. The hive with lots of stragglers outside keep fanning into the cool night. Could the bees be "smart" enough to know when their sisters need help finding there way to their new home and so help them by fanning the queen-smell out to draw them in? It seemed too cool for temperature control. Gregory Worona Beekeeper of 1 day ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 06:11:31 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: Re: Queens Mite-Free? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All Hawaiian honey bees will be mite free. Walter PATTON Walter, Elisabeth, Axel, Walter Ryan Hale Lamalani-Bed & Breakfast http://www.alohamall.com/hamakua/lamalani.htm Hawaiian Honey House-Honey Packers http://www.alohamall.com/hamakua/hihoney.htm A Hawaii Beekeepers Bed & Breakfast http://www.alohamall.com/hamakua/people.htm 27-703 A. Ka`ie`ie Homestead Rd. e-mail hihoney@ilhawaii.net Papaikou,Hawaii 96781 Ph.Fax.1-808-964-5401 "The Bee Hive The Fountain Of Youth And Health" ---------- > From: Brett D Bannon > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Queens Mite-Free? > Date: Friday, April 04, 1997 5:23 PM > > I have mite free hives in a isolated area in NE New Mexico. > If I order queens that are sent with Apistan-tabs will they absolutely be > mite free? I sure don't want to contaminate our area! > > Thanks in advance > > Brett D. Bannon > bbannon@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 11:19:08 EST Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "South Alabama Beekeepers' Association Inc." Subject: Re: Marc Sevigny : novice questions I recommend you use no wire, only hair pins in the eyelet holes to take the bow out of the foundation. Ben Davis On Sat, 5 Apr 1997 08:32:33 -0500 Greg Hankins writes: >>If you are >>only planning on a couple of hives try ,forget buying an embeder,too >>costly plus unless you have the time it eats it up using one.The >plastic >>foundation that Steve recomends would probably sufice. Using the >>foundation you have now without embeding it will only create a major >mess > >How important is cross embedding the foundation if it will only be >used in >the brood nest? Is the extra support primarily to enable the comb to >stand >the force of extraction? > >I plan only a few hives and expect to forego the use of an extractor. >I was >raised on good ole-fashioned hand-processed Appalachian chunk honey >and >plan on putting my harvest up that way as well. > >Greg > >____________________________________________________ >Greg Hankins Mt. Gilead, NC >ghankins@ac.net > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 01:36:35 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Pure Jane Subject: Re: importing honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=big5 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I want to know rules and regulations regarding importation of honey into the United States and/or Canada . Any references will be appreciated. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 19:44:55 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: Pollen Question (2nd time) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The best book wil be HANDBOOK OF PALYNOLOGY (1969), Erdtman. G., MUNKSGAARD(Sweden) or Pollen analysis (????), Moore. P.D., ed, Oxford, Blachwell scientific publications, Boston. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 13:51:31 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Sally Graves Subject: Pollen loads/honey plants Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi bee folk, For the folks that are interested in the color of bee "pollen loads", there is a book called "Pollen Loads" authored by Hodges (a woman from Britain). I don't know how it corresponds to plants in other countries. The sad part is that the book is out-of-print. There is also a book entitled, "American Honey Plants" by Frank C. Pellet which speaks to bee forage plants consecutively through out the season. Unfortunately this book is out-of-print as well. The GOOD news is there is a man who deals in old bee books & he might be able to help you out: Joseph J. Bray PO Box 3305 Yale Station New Haven CT 06520 860-664-3983 Good luck. I too am interested in pollen loads & honey plants. I had a discussion just a couple of days ago with Dr. Ayers from MSU about pollen ID. As far as he knows there is no work being done at this time because it would be very labor intensive. It's not as simple as obtaining pollen from a plant & comparing it to what the bee has delivered to the hive. Evidently the bee moistens the pollen so it will pack into the sacks better. This changes the original color. Sally Graves Fennville MI sg@accn.org ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 22:36:53 -0500 Reply-To: gwalter@massmed.org Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gert-Paul Walter Subject: Re: novice questions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Marc Sevigny > Harvard, Mass Marc, I live in Boxborough. You can call me, my number is in the phone book. Gert Walter ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 00:22:53 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Waxmoth in Honey Supers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steven A. Creasy wrote: > Do you agree or disagree with the following: > > Waxmoth larva generally eat organic matter like the cocoons left in the > cells of brood comb. If honey supers are separated from brood boxes by a > queen excluder 100% of the time, and no brood is ever raised in them, the > chance of getting waxmoth in them is nil since there is nothing in them > of value to eat. Agree! I have always had perfect waxmoth control without chemicals in honey supers if they had never had brood in them. That is why I *always* use queen excluders between the brood chamber and honey supers. Of course, occasionally a poorly made excluder lets a queen through, and then there are problems immediately (honey extracting around brood patches) and in the long run (wax moths in stored supers). Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 14:13:38 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: Pollen Question (2nd time) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brett D Bannon pollen questions Do you know the latin name of the pants I will look after it The greet books ar: HODGES D; The Pollenloads of the honeybee. IBRA, Cardiff. 1964 SAWYER R; Pollenidentification for beekeepers, University College Cardiff Press, 1981 SAWYER R; Honeyidentification, Cardiff Academic Press, 1988 Erdtma .G.;HANDBOOK OF PALYNOLOGY, MUNKSGAARD(Sweden)(1969) Moore. P.D., ed; Pollen analysis, Oxford, Blachwell scientific publications, Boston.(????) ------------------------------------------------------------- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands, Europ; No wooden shoes, no windmills please Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 homepage webside: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index.html webside for AmbrosiusGilde: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/ambro_index.html webside for NECTAR: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/nectar_index.html ---------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 18:31:48 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Malcolm Tom Sanford, Extension Apiculturist" Subject: Re: shipping bees across state lines Comments: To: ajwelk@ibm.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Fowarding this to Bee-L list; the usual procedure is to get a certificate of health from the departure state that is accepted by the receiving state. I know little about the Georgiga-Tennessee accords. Tom Sanford At 11:05 PM 4/2/97 -0500, you wrote: >I have tried to call the Georgia Dept of Ag. and Tenn D.O.A. and can not >get a responce. >Hopefully you can help, >I want to move some hives from GA into TN, are there any restrictions >and what do I need to do to legally move them? > ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 12:46:14 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Peters Subject: Hiatus Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello Everyone! It's been quite awhile since I last sent mail to the list (Oct-Nov 96...I think). Much has happened. In Dec, I secured an excellent job with a small fast-growing company, manufacturing medium power dry type transformers and power rectifiers. I'm so pleased to have the job I can even look past the 1 1/2 hr commute, each way, on VT state roads. I had been out of work for 9 months. In Feb, I was diagnosed with colon cancer...had successful surgery a week later and I'm cancer free for now. I have a 70% chance of survival. A very scary event but the outcome is positive...for the most part. Now for the 'bee' part. Some may recall (or been a part of) a tremendous golenrod flow in these parts (NE VT) last fall. My three hives went into winter with 60-100lbs of honey /hive. I was happy. This past winter was not very extreme in terms of temps and snow, but seemed VERY long and drawn out. We had a thaw in Feb...but I was in the hospital and didn't think to ask around to have someone do winter inspection. Then MArch was a whole litte winter on its own..with sub-zero temps and all. I just had my first chance to do my first inspection yesterday (4/5). I'm happy to report that all hives survived. Even my hive of italians, which had been dwindling last Fall, pulled through. All seem to be very strong. If spring suddenly bursts forth (as I suspect it will) then I'll be hard pressed to keep all the girls from swarming like crazy. I'm already planning splits/increase..hoping I have the time to build all the frames for hive bodies and supers! AND THEN COME THE BEARS!!!!! Time on my hands is the big problem now-a-days. Since Nov I have been monitoring the Bee-List, rcving the index each day and sending for the posts that most interested me. I kept up with it pretty well until I got sick...then I fell way behind. Now that the bees are flying I'll have even less time to sit in front of this PC. I am setting the no-mail mode, but maintaining my subscription. This mail list is a valuable resource; one that I was priveleged to be a small part of for a year's time. For all the 'newbies'...use it wisely. There is a mountain of valuable experience and knowledge from several experts. For all you experts who answered my questions and helped provide other perspectives and insights...Thank You. If anyone cares to, I can still be reached via my email address...as always, Tim Peters, Kirby VT tpeters@kingcon.com KirBee Apiary, Bear Bait Honey I rather be flying! ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 13:14:15 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Chris Blanchard Subject: Sugar Syrup, Cotton and Fire Ants Hi All, I have received and installed successfully my three hives! WHEW!!! The girls are doing great in learning the area. It was amazing while install them that they seemed to hover in front of my face as if they were looking at me. Very amazing creatures! I have a few newbie questions today : 1. I put feeder jars on the hives with a 1:1 sugar syrup. How long should I continue to feed them? 2. How do I get rid of fire ants in my beeyard? 3. What flavor of honey (if any) does cotton produce? Or do bees pollinate cotton? Thanks in advance! Chris Blanchard Wilmington, NC ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 06:01:52 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Guy Miller Subject: Dr. Stafford's note of 6 April Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In the note outlining his talk in French, in the Present Situation section, a, concerning Apistan, he says it may be used continuously. I thought I understood that it should be used only after the honey flow. Did I misunderstand, or have the rules of usage changed? Guy F. Miller My fashion theory: If you walk slow enough, Charlottesville. VA you can lead the next parade. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 20:42:28 -0400 Reply-To: gwalter@massmed.org Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gert-Paul Walter Subject: Re: No eggs, and snow in Massachusetts Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi: An update on my last posting. I said about 10 days ago that 2/7 hives had no eggs yet, although all 7 seemed to be otherwise healthy, with a good amount of non-nasty bees. I gave those 2 pollen sub and syrup and rechecked. 1 had capped brood and eggs, so I obviously missed eggs the first time around. The other has well placed eggs but no brood yet, so I assume that I stimulated them. All hives are bringing some pollen (?poplar) now. Should I be worried about the "slow hive" and possibly requeen? That hive seemed weeks behind the others. All queens are italians. Also the 26"+ of April Fools snow is gone now, I think spring has sprung in central Massachusetts! Pollination time will be here soon. Gert Walter ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 14:53:25 +0000 Reply-To: Janko.Bozic@UNI-LJ.SI Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Janko Bozic Subject: Re: Save Our Drones In-Reply-To: <97Apr4.233430+0100_bst.1310991-28615+91@mail.u-net.net> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Is there any way to keep a group of drones alive over the winter ? Just today one beekeeper told me that he observed perhaps 100 drones in a queenless family. He said that there was no brood in the comb, so these drones most likely survive the winter. Janko ==================================================================== Dr. Janko Bozic University of Ljubljana Biotechnical Faculty, Department of Biology Vecna pot 111, p.p. 2995 1001 Ljubljana SLOVENIA tel. (386) 61-265-584, (386) 61-265-585 fax. (386) 61-273-390 e-mail: janko.bozic@uni-lj.si ==================================================================== SLOVENIA - Homeland of Carniolan Bee ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 08:59:27 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Sid Pullinger Subject: No waxmoth in clean supers Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Steve Creasy writes <<<< If honey supers are separated from brood boxes by a queen excluder 100% of the time, and no brood is ever raised in them, the chance of getting waxmoth in them is nil since there is nothing in them of value to eat.>>>> Not quite true but near enough. All larvae require protein for development. There is no protein in pure beeswax. Sometimes an ill-educated waxmoth will lay her eggs in a comb of pure wax. The eggs hatch and the larvae die early and little damage is done. I gave up using PDB in super storage many years ago as an unnecessary chore and expense (the bees do not like it also). My supers, wax only and never used for brood, require no special storage treatment. On a commercial basis it may not be practicable to keep brood and super combs from being intermixed, especially with a standard Langstroth. The hobbyist might consider using a single deep broodchamber, nine or ten Dadant depth combs, a queen excluder and shallow super combs. This is standard practice in my part of the world. A standard Langstroth brood chamber can easily be converted by the addition of a two and one eighth inch eke. A brood comb containing cocoons and usually some pollen quickly falls prey to waxmoth. Leave it exposed for just a day and a moth will find it. If I have surplus brood combs at the end of the season they go straight into plastic bags and into a freezer for two days. then remain sealed until needed. _________________________________________________________________ Sid Pullinger Email : sidpul@Interalpha.co.uk or 36, Grange Rd Sidpul@compuserve.com Alresford Hants SO24 9HF England ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 6 Apr 1997 20:30:55 +0000 Reply-To: ddc1@www.scranton.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: "Dave D. Cawley" Organization: Internet Cafe Web Development group Subject: Getting Dead Bees Out of Comb? In-Reply-To: <2.2.32.19970406100152.00674954@mail.comet.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT It was a pretty nice day and I had time so I went to clean out my lone hive which died in January. There were many bees that were deep in the cells head first, what is the best way to get them out? Also the dead cluster started to get a little fuzzy, will that affect the bees accepting the comb next time around? ****************************************************************************** Dave D. Cawley | Where a social revolution is pending and, The Internet Cafe | for whatever reason, is not accomplished, Scranton, PA | reaction is the alternative. (717) 344-1969 | dave@scranton.com | -Daniel De Leon ****************************************************************************** URL => http://www.scranton.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 09:15:57 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: Getting Dead Bees Out of Comb? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Dave- Hi. This is a common chore in springtime, dealing with the dead colonies. Really, it is simple. Remove each comb. Shake the dead bees off, and then if you want to be really good gently brush the remaining bees off the surface with a soft brush (old paintbrush, feather or whatever. DO NOT worry about the bees "in" the cells. You won't get them out without damaging the comb. Scrape off the dysentery and burr comb/propolis buildup on the frames themselves, for the most part, anyway. ALSO scrape down the bottom-board/floor very well so it can dry out. It would be good to set it in the sun for a day or two, if you can. Other than that, you can scrape down the rabbets in the box, where the frame lugs sit, as they probably are laden with propolis buildup. If you have done this, the new bees have a great head-start. They will very quickly remove the remaining dead bees, mold, etc, and fix up the combs, and soon you will have NO evidence of the dead colony at all. They really are great at re-furbishing a hive like that. Have a good season... Best wishes, Joel Govostes, Freeville, NY (nr. Ithaca) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 13:24:09 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Moore Subject: Question regarding the "Killer Bee" show on cable. Comments: cc: moore@aiag.ENET.dec.com I watched a one hour show this past weekend on the "Killer Bee". It was very informative. I do have a question regarding the escape from captivity. In brief, the story is that the African bees were being kept with queen excluders at the entrances in a controlled apiary. A worker unknowingly removed the excluders and a number of swarms escaped. That is how it all began. Well one item of reasearch presented in the show indicated that queens that mate with Africanized drones and non-Africanized dones tend to produce Africanized queens. If a hive produces a number of queen cells the African ones hatch first, by about 1 day, and the non-African get destroyed. This explains the fact the the African traits see to dominate and have not hybridized as much a expected over time. Well it would seem to me that even if the worker had not removed the queen excluders that the Africanized bee would have "escaped" anyway. It may have already been out when the incident of blame occured. I would expect that during routine hive maintenance many drones would have taken flight, thus providing the Africanized genes to the general population. So the endevour was flawed anyway and the individual that removed the queen excluder only helped the process along. Comments anyone, especially from the acedemic/research community would be appreciated. Regards, Jim Moore ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 15:00:14 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Moore DTN276-9448 ogo1/e17 508-496-9448 Subject: Another Africanized bee question I have another question the the "Killer Bee" show has raised. I showed a migratory beekeeper in Arizona (I can't recall his name) killing the queen of an aggressive (Africanized?) hive and requeening, before leaving the area. Assuming the Africanized drones are more at fault for the spread on the Africanized bee it would seem like transporting live drones and drone brood from a just requeened Africanized hive is contributing to the spread of the Africanized genes. What is the standard practice of migratory beekeepers to cull out Africanized bees when leaving Africanized areas for points west, north and east? Regards, Jim Moore ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 12:03:19 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Sugar Syrup, Cotton and Fire Ants Chris Blanchard wrote: >1. I put feeder jars on the hives with a 1:1 sugar syrup. How long should I >continue to feed them? As long as they'll take it in. When there's a honey flow they'll stop and it will no longer be necessary. Don't let them go empty. At this stage they'll take in quite a bit of sugar and turn it into comb. That's good because they'll make more honey for you. >2. How do I get rid of fire ants in my beeyard? I use diatomaceous earth and pyrethrum with no problem. I just stir them into the ant mound and the ants go away. I'm not sure that this destroys the ants. I think it just moves them around. This year I'm trying the method of putting borax in sugar water and leaving it in the bee yard in old film canisters that I've saved over the last year. The lids will have small holes that admit ants but not bees. I found that here on list. There are several other ways to combat ants. >3. What flavor of honey (if any) does cotton produce? Or do bees pollinate >cotton? I got some cotton honey last year but because of the drought in Texas, not much. I understand that the bees get nectar from nectaries on the stem of the cotton but not the flower(cotton ball). I don't think I can give a just opinion on flavor because I got so little. This year should be better. Other beekeepers tell me that the bees will make much honey from cotton but haven't told me much about flavor. Ted Wout, 3rd year, 10 hives Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 12:02:35 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Bee Romoval Update Hello all, I figured I'd give a an update on my bee romoval effort I posted earlier. Everything seems to be going fine. My hive is building up in strength although I haven't found the queen or eggs yet. There still is what appears to be a viable queen cell in the hive. When I started to perform my inspection a bunch of bees were lounging outside the screen cone. When they detected the open hive they walked right in, the leaders fanning Nasonov(SP?) pheramone. I take this as a good sign. I have observed several dead brood occupants trapped in the bottom of the screen. They seem to all be drone brood that have been carried out of the house by workers and dropped in the screen. Is this normal when removing bees using the screen cone method? Is it a good sign? My logic says that it means there are not enough workers to maintain brood and they are removing the dead brood they find. Am I correct? Spring is in full force here in North Texas. The bluebonnets are in full bloom and my bees are bringing in loads of dark red pollen from them. Yes, bluebonnets produce dark red pollen. Milkweed is starting to bloom along with dandelions. Mesquite is leafing out so the first mesquite honey flow should come soon. An unbelievable contrast to the brown spring of last year's drought. Ted Wout, 3rd year, 10 hives Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 18:27:41 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Speight Subject: Re: Pollen loads/honey plants Comments: cc: BestOfBee@systronix.net In-Reply-To: <03221764603010@systronix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 In message <03221764603010@systronix.net>, Excerpts from BEE-L writes >Reply-to: Discussion of Bee Biology >From: Sally Graves > >For the folks that are interested in the color of bee "pollen loads", there >is a book called "Pollen Loads" authored by Hodges (a woman from Britain). >I don't know how it corresponds to plants in other countries. The sad part >is that the book is out-of-print. There have been least three editions of this book, the latest possibly still available from specialist booksellers. > >The GOOD news is there is a man who deals in old bee books & he might be >able to help you out: > >Joseph J. Bray >PO Box 3305 Yale Station >New Haven CT 06520 > >860-664-3983 > >Good luck. I too am interested in pollen loads & honey plants. I had a >discussion just a couple of days ago with Dr. Ayers from MSU about pollen >ID. As far as he knows there is no work being done at this time because it >would be very labor intensive. It's not as simple as obtaining pollen from >a plant & comparing it to what the bee has delivered to the hive. Evidently >the bee moistens the pollen so it will pack into the sacks better. This >changes the original color. > There is a recently published book (1994) by IBRA, which is still in print as far as I know called "A Colour Guide To Pollen Loads of the Honeybee". It's a sort of updated Hodges. Printed in English, German, & French. >From memory, both show two or three colours of the same pollen - fresh and stored. Hope this helps. -- Tom S ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 15:03:24 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Kriston M. Bruland" Subject: Re: Sugar Syrup, Cotton and Fire Ants In-Reply-To: Ted Wout "Sugar Syrup, Cotton and Fire Ants" (Apr 7, 12:03pm) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii On Apr 7, 12:03pm, Ted Wout wrote: > Subject: Sugar Syrup, Cotton and Fire Ants > Chris Blanchard wrote: > > >1. I put feeder jars on the hives with a 1:1 sugar syrup. How long > should I > >continue to feed them? > As long as they'll take it in. When there's a honey flow they'll stop and > it will no longer be necessary. Don't let them go empty. At this stage > they'll take in quite a bit of sugar and turn it into comb. That's good > because they'll make more honey for you. Ted has a good point here. Right about this time of spring, I give my bees boxes of foundation with one or two drawn combs in it and as many gallons of syrup as they'll drink. When it warms up enough, they draw out box after box which I then use for honey later. I have two deeps on the bottom, then the box of foundation they're working on, then an inverted pail type feeder on top of this with a couple empty supers covering it. Every time they get a box finished, I put another with more foundation on top of it. For some reason, they seem much more willing to work foundation into comb in the spring than any other time of the year. This arrangement lets me make sugar into wax and nectar into honey. The queen lays more eggs because the syrup is like a nectar flow to the bees. I check the bottom brood boxes once a week or as the weather allows and flip them around every time the queen moves into the upper one. The only tricky part about this system is swarm control because the hive builds much faster than it would without syrup and all that extra room. Timely splits or checkerboarding help with swarms. I only stop feeding when they stop eating. We've had three days of beautiful sunny weather after a whole winter and spring of continual rain and it's great to see them fly! I've seen at least 10 different colors of pollen coming in. The bright orange stuff looks neat against my dark blue hives. Kris Bruland Member of Mt. Baker Beekeepers Association Bellingham, WA 98225 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 09:26:23 +1200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Cliff Van Eaton Subject: Re: Pollen loads/honey plants Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Someone recently suggested that The Pollen Loads of the Honey Bee by Dorothy Hodges was "out of print". According to the latest BooksPlus catalogue from the International Bee Research Association (IBRA), the book is still available, at a cost of 30 pounds. It's well worth owning if you're into pollen analysis (or classic bee books, for that matter). The IBRA has also published another excellent pollen identification book. It's called A Colour Guide to Pollen Loads of the Honey Bee, by William Kirk. It's also available from the IBRA, at a cost of 13 pounds 50. This book has two advantages. First, it's multilingual (English, German and French). Second, it uses the CMYK screen tint percentages, as used by printers in the four-colour printing process. So the colours for pollen loads are standardised. For details regarding IBRA book orders, visit their web site at http://www.cf.ac.uk/ibra/. Their E-mail address is ibra@cardiff.ac.uk. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 20:48:43 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Beeworks Subject: Re: Another Africanized bee question In-Reply-To: <9704071900.AA06122@us7rmc.bb.dec.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 7 Apr 97 at 15:00, Jim Moore DTN276-9448 ogo1/e1 wrote: Another Africanized bee question > I have another question the the "Killer Bee" show has raised. I showed > a migratory beekeeper in Arizona (I can't recall his name) killing the queen of > an aggressive (Africanized?) hive and requeening, before leaving the area. > > Assuming the Africanized drones are more at fault for the spread on the > Africanized bee it would seem like transporting live drones and drone brood > from a just requeened Africanized hive is contributing to the spread of the > Africanized genes. > > What is the standard practice of migratory beekeepers to cull out > Africanized bees when leaving Africanized areas for points west, north and > east? > In my opinion you are correct. There was a report that there was a sighting of Africans in Maine. Don't know how true is was, but? Won't be long before others are complaining of strange happenings! This might be the reason for just a little of the strange reports from 'Down South'. ********************************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 22:19:55 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Brian R Tucker Subject: Essential Oils I am just wanting to know if any one had any and what type of success with essential oils later fall and over winter. I overwintered 2 hives 1 with patties with oils and 1 without. The hive that had oils if doing wounderful and no signs of varroa. But the one without is very slow out of the gate here and does have some might in the drone brood. Thanks for comments. B. Tucker Polo MO ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 7 Apr 1997 23:50:19 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John M Thorp Subject: Africanized Bees I'm sure that the number of beekeepers that are concerned equal those that are amused about these bugs from across the sea. No matter,just some food for thought,is there a remote possibilty that the mites might be a hidden blessing at least concerning them? Coments? Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at