From LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mon Jun 30 09:10:09 1997 Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 08:57:28 -0400 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8c)" To: Adam Finkelstein Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9704C" ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 11:24:35 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bently Durant Subject: I feel so lonely. I've no fellow beekepers in town and I'm being rejected by varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BC498F.9FE3F900" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BC498F.9FE3F900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Yes these are tough days. Almost all the local beekeepers have suffered = total loss of their bee colonies due to varroa. I am 14 years old and = live in granburry texas. Its a small town southwest of dallas by about = 35 miles. Two years ago we had bees flying all over the flowers of our = yard. The next year they were gone. The year after that I started = beekeeping. Now the bees are buzzing around the some trees. My first colony that I got the fall of last year was an aggressive = italan hive. They tought me alot about not fearing the bees. I decided = when I was budgeting that did not need apistan strips and Used a little = oils and Terimiacin grease patties. Sadly I never was privelaged enough = to see a single might on one of the bees. After a local beekeeper showed = me how to find the queen I killed thousands of bees checking th hive = whenever weather and time permitted. I would sometimes walk up to the = hive and watch but I learned that the hive was aggressive enough to = sting me so I usually stayed away from the bees for a bit. Winter came = and as I requeened (I think it was unsuccessful because they still rush = me whenever I don't use smoke) with the ars-y-c-1 carnolian cause I = hered carnolians were gentle. I never thought the hive would survive the winter espeicially because I = drowned the bees by the dozen inside the feeders. I managed to loose = even more by moving the hive out of the way for a new phone line.=20 Enought of then this is now: I now have 7 hives 6 of them midnights (Who needs a smoker with them... = I would even trust them enough to walk up to them wearing nothing but my = skippies if it for the neighbors and farm hands.) One hive is still = agressive but I have a firelighter wich helps me to start the smoker up = (but even the smoker has its drawbacks cause last time I was filling it = up with hay, coastle, it burned me and I dropped it onto the grass. = luckly no fire was started but had I let that fire touch my cover alls = then I wouldn't have enough tome to think of the old stop-drop-and-roll = methiod.) I painted the six of the hives a really nice color of blue and spaced = them on beams about 3-4 ft apart with the front of each hive facing the = back of the one in front of it. Putting the bees in also proved to be hazardouse because I was stun = three times wile installing six 2# pacages of bees (everyone who hasn't = met the italans thinks that thats alot :) I managed to have one fall in = my tennis shoe at the end. He promptly stung me and sent me limping :( I = also suffered when I poped open the italan hive. I have been spraying the bees with suger water and dusting them with = sugar. the rain has done most of the watering. I have not been stung = latly but I've noticed tha tthe bees are building new come like crazy. = some of the hives were uneaven as a result of me not totally shaking the = bees out but I have tried to even them out before I decided the the time = had come to reliese the queens who had eaten most of the candy already. = (gluttonus females :) so the queens pretty much walked out. I made shure = the bees on the queen cage were not aming their stingers at the queen = when i released her. most of the bees were aming their stingers away = from the queen if not all of them so I felt pretty confiden't that the = bees wouldn't ball the queens. I said a prayer anyway just in case. still no mites where are those mites this has been a state of the bigginer becoming a hobbiest beekeeper = report. p.s. I will suggest the following to the local beekeepers when they get = started again for controle of varroa mites. 1. oils (I use canola oil cause its so easy to get but do I need to use = others) 2. apistan strips 3. citric acid (I don't know where to find this except on my = toungebecause I love orange juice)=20 4.Crisco any others that you would recomend for the, uneducated in the modern = ways of beekeeping, beekeepers.=20 ------=_NextPart_000_01BC498F.9FE3F900 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yes these are tough days. Almost all the = local=20 beekeepers have suffered total loss of their bee colonies due to varroa. = I am 14=20 years old and live in granburry texas. Its a small town southwest of = dallas by=20 about 35 miles. Two years ago we had bees flying all over the flowers of = our=20 yard. The next year they were gone. The year after that I started = beekeeping.=20 Now the bees are buzzing around the some trees.

My first colony that I got the fall of = last year was=20 an aggressive italan hive. They tought me alot about not fearing the = bees. I=20 decided when I was budgeting that did not need apistan strips and Used = a little=20 oils and Terimiacin grease patties. Sadly I never was privelaged enough = to see a=20 single might on one of the bees. After a local beekeeper showed me how = to find=20 the queen I killed thousands of bees checking th hive whenever weather = and time=20 permitted. I would sometimes walk up to the hive and watch but I learned = that=20 the hive was aggressive enough to sting me so I usually stayed away from = the=20 bees for a bit. Winter came and as I requeened (I think it was = unsuccessful=20 because they still rush me whenever I don't use smoke) with the = ars-y-c-1=20 carnolian cause I hered carnolians were gentle.

I never thought the hive would survive = the winter=20 espeicially because I drowned the bees by the dozen inside the feeders. = I=20 managed to loose even more by moving the hive out of the way for a new = phone=20 line.

Enought of then this is now:

I now have 7 hives 6 of them midnights = (Who needs a=20 smoker with them... I would even trust them enough to walk up to them = wearing=20 nothing but my skippies if it for the neighbors and farm = hands.) One hive is still agressive but I have a = firelighter wich=20 helps me to start the smoker up (but even the smoker has its drawbacks = cause=20 last time I was filling it up with hay, coastle, it burned me and I = dropped it=20 onto the grass. luckly no fire was started but had I let that fire touch = my=20 cover alls then I wouldn't have enough tome to think of the old=20 stop-drop-and-roll methiod.)

I painted the six of the hives a really = nice color of=20 blue and spaced them on beams about 3-4 ft apart with the front of each = hive=20 facing the back of the one in front of it.

Putting the bees in also proved to be = hazardouse=20 because I was stun three times wile installing six 2# pacages of bees = (everyone=20 who hasn't met the italans thinks that thats alot :) I managed to have = one fall=20 in my tennis shoe at the end. He promptly stung me and sent me limping = :( I also=20 suffered when I poped open the italan hive.

I have been spraying the bees with suger = water and=20 dusting them with sugar. the rain has done most of the watering. I have = not been=20 stung latly but I've noticed tha tthe bees are building new come like = crazy.=20 some of the hives were uneaven as a result of me not totally shaking the = bees=20 out but I have tried to even them out before I decided the the time had = come to=20 reliese the queens who had eaten most of the candy already. (gluttonus = females=20 :) so the queens pretty much walked out. I made shure the bees on the = queen cage=20 were not aming their stingers at the queen when i released her. = most of the bees were aming their stingers away from the queen if not all of them so I felt = pretty confiden't that the bees wouldn't ball the queens. I said a = prayer=20 anyway just in case.

still no mites

where are those mites

this has been a state of the bigginer becoming a = hobbiest=20 beekeeper report.

 

p.s. I will suggest the following to the local = beekeepers when=20 they get started again for controle of varroa mites.

1. oils (I use canola oil cause its so easy to get = but do I=20 need to use others)

2. apistan strips

3. citric acid (I don't know where to find this = except on my=20 toungebecause I love orange juice)

4.Crisco

any others that you would recomend for the, = uneducated in the=20 modern ways of beekeeping, beekeepers.

------=_NextPart_000_01BC498F.9FE3F900-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 23:50:58 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Peter T. Kneeland" Subject: Parasitic wasps Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi! While I prefer bees, my wife loves to raise rabbitts. She has heard of using parasitic wasps to control the black flys that love to hang out near the rabbitt cages. Does anybody know if there are any problems associated with these and bees? Do they attack bees as they do fly larvae? TIA P Kneeland shire@northernnet.com * * * * * * * * * * FLY CONTROL: The Parasitic Wasps work VERY well for controlling flies. About the same size as the "No-See-'ems," they attack only the fly larvae. A difference can be seen in as little as 4 days after installing. * * * * * * * * * * ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 11:52:46 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bently Durant Subject: Re: Charging for Swarms MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_01BC4993.88ED3B40" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_01BC4993.88ED3B40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Nope, don't charge or don't go. If it's not convenient or to far = suggest another beekeeper or contact source. If the swarm is beyond practical reach suggest it be allowed to boost the feral population. Alden Marshall ok you made me do it. I wasn't even going to reply to this because its = way past my bed time but here goes. even thought I do not own a car I know about the gas econmy because my = dad owns a car lot. I believe that the cost to remove bees should be = minimal and that if you want to help the econmy you might consider = getting the owners of the bees to but a starter kit throught you and = keeping the bees. I plan to only charge fees for removing pest that i = get nothing out of such as wasp, ants, etc... I do however believe that = you should charge to remove nest and make everyone and their dogs = favorite bone sign a disclamer for leagle protecton against bee stings.=20 I plan to advertise to romove bees for free and remove other unlikables = for a fee. there are very few beekeepers left in this area since they = met those cute little mites that you guys so happly call VARROA MITES, = so encorage ment of beekeepers is a must. I also want to start to teach = the other beekeepers about the mites and help them. I plan to do all = this stuff really soon but my age prevents me from getting a car just = yet.=20 P.S. all of this was written past my bed time so if it dosn't make much = sense I blame the coffee :) ------=_NextPart_000_01BC4993.88ED3B40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


<snip>
Nope, don't charge or don't go.  If it's = not=20 convenient or to far suggest
another beekeeper or contact source. If the swarm is beyond = practical
reach suggest it be allowed to boost the feral population.

Alden Marshall

<snip>

ok you made me do it. I wasn't even going to reply to = this=20 because its way past my bed time but here goes.

<deap breath>

even thought I do not own a car I know about the gas = econmy=20 because my dad owns a car lot. I believe that the cost to remove bees = should be=20 minimal and that if you want to help the econmy you might consider = getting the=20 owners of the bees to but a starter kit throught you and keeping the = bees. I=20 plan to only charge fees for removing pest that i get nothing out of = such as=20 wasp, ants, etc... I do however believe that you = should=20 charge to remove nest and make everyone and their dogs favorite bone = sign a=20 disclamer for leagle protecton against bee stings.

<breath out>

I plan to advertise to romove bees for free and remove = other=20 unlikables for a fee. there are very few beekeepers left in this area = since they=20 met those cute little mites that you guys so happly call VARROA MITES, = so=20 encorage ment of beekeepers is a must. I also want to start to teach the = other=20 beekeepers about the mites and help them. I plan to do all this stuff = really=20 soon but my age prevents me from getting a car just yet.

P.S. all of this was written past my bed time so if it = dosn't=20 make much sense I blame the coffee :)

 


 

 ------=_NextPart_000_01BC4993.88ED3B40-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 22:14:55 -0700 Reply-To: bjhensel@metro.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: BRIAN HENSEL Organization: Company Subject: READ THIS DR. RODRIQUEZ, I THOUGHT THAT YOU WOULD GET A KICK OUT OF IT!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bently Durant wrote: > > Yes these are tough days. Almost all the local beekeepers have > suffered total loss of their bee colonies due to varroa. I am 14 years > old and live in granburry texas. Its a small town southwest of dallas > by about 35 miles. Two years ago we had bees flying all over the > flowers of our yard. The next year they were gone. The year after that > I started beekeeping. Now the bees are buzzing around the some trees. > > My first colony that I got the fall of last year was an aggressive > italan hive. They tought me alot about not fearing the bees. I decided > when I was budgeting that did not need apistan strips and Used a > little oils and Terimiacin grease patties. Sadly I never was > privelaged enough to see a single might on one of the bees. After a > local beekeeper showed me how to find the queen I killed thousands of > bees checking th hive whenever weather and time permitted. I would > sometimes walk up to the hive and watch but I learned that the hive > was aggressive enough to sting me so I usually stayed away from the > bees for a bit. Winter came and as I requeened (I think it was > unsuccessful because they still rush me whenever I don't use smoke) > with the ars-y-c-1 carnolian cause I hered carnolians were gentle. > > I never thought the hive would survive the winter espeicially because > I drowned the bees by the dozen inside the feeders. I managed to loose > even more by moving the hive out of the way for a new phone line. > > Enought of then this is now: > > I now have 7 hives 6 of them midnights (Who needs a smoker with > them... I would even trust them enough to walk up to them wearing > nothing but my skippies if it for the neighbors and farm hands.) One > hive is still agressive but I have a firelighter wich helps me to > start the smoker up (but even the smoker has its drawbacks cause last > time I was filling it up with hay, coastle, it burned me and I dropped > it onto the grass. luckly no fire was started but had I let that fire > touch my cover alls then I wouldn't have enough tome to think of the > old stop-drop-and-roll methiod.) > > I painted the six of the hives a really nice color of blue and spaced > them on beams about 3-4 ft apart with the front of each hive facing > the back of the one in front of it. > > Putting the bees in also proved to be hazardouse because I was stun > three times wile installing six 2# pacages of bees (everyone who > hasn't met the italans thinks that thats alot :) I managed to have one > fall in my tennis shoe at the end. He promptly stung me and sent me > limping :( I also suffered when I poped open the italan hive. > > I have been spraying the bees with suger water and dusting them with > sugar. the rain has done most of the watering. I have not been stung > latly but I've noticed tha tthe bees are building new come like crazy. > some of the hives were uneaven as a result of me not totally shaking > the bees out but I have tried to even them out before I decided the > the time had come to reliese the queens who had eaten most of the > candy already. (gluttonus females :) so the queens pretty much walked > out. I made shure the bees on the queen cage were not aming their > stingers at the queen when i released her. most of the bees were aming > their stingers away from the queen if not all of them so I felt pretty > confiden't that the bees wouldn't ball the queens. I said a prayer > anyway just in case. > > still no mites > > where are those mites > > this has been a state of the bigginer becoming a hobbiest beekeeper > report. > > > > p.s. I will suggest the following to the local beekeepers when they > get started again for controle of varroa mites. > > 1. oils (I use canola oil cause its so easy to get but do I need to > use others) > > 2. apistan strips > > 3. citric acid (I don't know where to find this except on my > toungebecause I love orange juice) > > 4.Crisco > > any others that you would recomend for the, uneducated in the modern > ways of beekeeping, beekeepers. HI DR. RODRIQUEZ ! I wanted to forward this email I got yesterday to you because I thought that you would get a laugh, over this very wonderful story. I especially like his writing on when he got stung, but also about his mention of useing canola oil. This is probably the sole reason that he hasn't had any varroa, along with grease patties. I obviously disagree with his statement that he hasn't had the prevledge of getting mites, getting varroa isn't a priveledge. I will write back to him and tell him how much I enjoyed reading his report, and tell him about my experiences with varroa. Im glad to hear that the queens are working out. I have also started useing mineral oil on the top bars as you suggested. No mites so far without the use of Apistan, just useing mineral oil strips and top bar applications. My hive is now moveing up to the 2nd deep. The pollen flows are very very strong, one day when the sun was hot and the temperature was 78 degrees last week I looked at the hive and it looked like there was a robing taking effect. It was just the bee's all trying to take off and land and they would all have to hover in front till they could squeeze in. It was a sight that made me very happy. All the apple trees are inb full bloom now. It's a bee paradise around here right now. Every direction you look and all you see is acre after acre of apple trees and cherry, and peach, all in bloom. This is the best time of the year around here, soon the pears and late blooming trees will start. My raspberries are in full bloom, and the bee's just love them, along with the wisteria. I noticed that the wisteria also attracts allot of very big bumblebees, of several different colors. I can stand and watch for hours all the bee's buzzing around the raspberries, and wisteria. The neighbors are going to think that i'm nuts when they see me just watching the bee's out in the garden. They don't know that I have bee's because I didn't want to attract any attention to my bee's because If anybody gets stung in the neighborhood they would say that it was my bees, and I don't know what my landlord would say, probably would be affraid someone would sue, and tell me to get rid of them. If I could have as many bee's as I wanted I would probably have about 50 to 100 hives, so that I could rent them out for pollination. Plus get all the honey to sell. Thanks for the advice on useing smoke, the bee,s are manageable, but I like to wait for the evening to check my hive because If I use it during a flow then they pretty much shut down for the day, and I don't want to slow them down at all. Please keep me informed if you have discovered additional methods of applying the oil. Now that I have added the 2nd deep I hope that if I just have the strips in the upper deep that, that will be sufficiant. I don't want to have to split the hive open every time to re oil the strips. What would you suggest? THANK YOU VERY MUCH ! BRIAN HENSEL bjhensel@metro.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 22:40:46 -0700 Reply-To: bjhensel@metro.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: BRIAN HENSEL Organization: Company Subject: VARROA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi everyone; I sent a copy of a letter that I have sent to Dr. Rodriquez to Bee-L Because in Bently's letter he mentions useing oils in treating his hive and he hasn't had the varroa mite invade yet. I'm happy to say after I followed Dr. Rodriquez's suggestion of mineral oil on strips that I have not had any sign of varroa after my hive almost died from varroa. Has any one else tried this method? All of you who have been on bee-l last winter should remember Dr. Rodriquez, when he caused quit a stir for mentioning his ideas of useing mineral oil to the list. I haven't read a thing since if anybody else has tried his methods. THANK YOU VERY MUCH BRIAN HENSEL bjhensel@metro.net ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 10:55:27 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Matysek Miroslav, Ing." Subject: Re: Help on Amitraz/Taktik for Bees > (1) A beefriend wants to know how to use the subject-line > chemicals to control T- and V-mites in honeybees. > Specifically, how does one cut the material in water > and how is the resultant applied? > I repeat: this query is NOT mine but posed by a friend. > Hello, Taktic (in Czech republic VARIDOL, active substance Amitraz) is a basic medicament in Czech republic on control V-mites. The ways of application: 1. Fumigation - 2 drops on the smoulder strips, 3 times from 10.10. until 30.12. at the temperature above 10 C. 2. Spray - the wather emulsion. This method is rarely used. I don't remember dosing. Other medicaments, which are used for V-mites control in Czech republic: 1. GABON PF 90/Fluvalinat/contact strips 2. GABON PA 92/Acrinathrine/contact strips 3. MAVRIK/Fluvalinat/coat brood 4. MP-10/Fluvalinat/fumigation 5. Formic acid/evaporating boards I can offer more information. You can get more information and you can buy medicaments in: Bee Research Institute at Doll near Prague Libcice n. Vltavou 252 66 Czech republic tel.: ++420 2 6857586 fax.: ++420 2 6857585 Mirek ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 07:04:19 -0600 Reply-To: Charles Harper Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Charles Harper Subject: Re: HeartsHomeFarm: HeartsHomeFarm: Question: Warming 55 Gallons of HFCS MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Mon, 14 Apr 1997 23:28:46 EDT, Edward A Markus wrote: >--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- >From: HeartsHomeFarm >To: listserv@uacsc2.albany.edu >Subject: HeartsHomeFarm: Question: Warming 55 Gallons of HFCS >Date: Sun, 9 Mar 1997 19:28:45 PST >Message-ID: <19970309.192631.14614.3.HeartsHomeFarm@juno.com> > >--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- >From: HeartsHomeFarm >To: LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU >Subject: Question: Warming 55 Gallons of HFCS >Date: Sat, 15 Mar 1997 08:49:23 PST >Message-ID: <19970315.084728.11470.0.HeartsHomeFarm@juno.com> > > A not so new but still struggling beekeeper (myself), asks, now that >have I found a source of HFCS I feel I can afford , how the heck do I >reliquify a barrel of this great product? 1. cheaply 2. easily ?? How i liquify a 55 steel drum of HFCF . Place drum on top of a large burner able to support the drum and put on medium heat, i haven't overheated one yet like honey will under the same conditions. you will have to poke holes in the sugar after it has heated for a while to get a circulation going as the hot HFCF will come to the top of the drum. Charles Harper Harper's Honey farm Carencro LA. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 09:14:49 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Meniere's Disease MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This might be a little off the wall for this list but would appreciate any comments you might have about meniere's disease and beekeeping, specifically being stung. I have Meniere's, which is a disease of the inner ear. It causes periods of extream dizziness; ringing in the ear; loss of hearing; and a "fullness" on the side of the head affected. One person on the support site I visit told that they had cortisone shots to help the symptoms, which made me wonder if the beestings I get as a "benefit" of beekeeping might be helping me in that they keep down the dizziness and seem to have the disease in check. I have not suffered from an attack of dizziness since I started keeping bees. Since there is a good cross section of people on this list and since meniere's is not that uncommon a disease, if any have it or know beekeepers who have meniers's, I would appreciate your comments. Did the dizzy spells stop? Is the disease in check. I still have the ringing, fullness and hearing loss, so the real question is dizzy spells. The problem with meniere's is that it is not consistant and is probably several different diseases so this study will not be very scientific, but it might lead somewhere. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 16:48:13 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert E Neely Subject: Re: Foundation Comments: To: barry@birkey.com Barry, I too have been using Duragilt with good success. Sometime I have had a few problems, part my own fault (let it get too warm) and have handeled it too rough. I would say that my problems have been few and far between. Look man! Any time that we mix it up with nature we will have a few problems. Bob Neely neely-bee@juno.com Goose Creek, SC On Mon, 14 Apr 1997 15:07:02 -0500 Barry Birkey writes: >Okay, I just have to stick my nose in now. It sure sounds like >Duragilt is coming out on >the junk pile from most everything that's being said in this thread. >Is it just me or >what? I've never used anything but Duragilt and can't say I share the >problems that >others are talking about! Sure, once in a great while you will get a >piece of foundation >that starts getting messed up from the beginning but that's due to a >flow that's >inadequate for supporting comb building in my experience. Once the >foundation has >been pulled out I've never had "bald" spots appear in the comb. Are >all those who have >had "bad" experiences with Duragilt telling us the "whole" story? Is >it that the >foundation is inferior or is it not being introduced properly? Is it a >"bald" spot here and >there or is it frame after frame of comb being cleared down to the >plastic? Anyone else >willing to stick their head out and admit to using Duragilt? :>) > >Happy with Duragilt in Illinois! > >-Barry > >-- >Barry Birkey >West Chicago, Illinois USA >barry@birkey.com >http://www.birkey.com > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 09:49:46 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: I feel so lonely. I've no fellow beekepers in town and I'm being rejected by varroa On Tue, 15 Apr 1997 11:24:35 -0500 Bently Durant writes: Hi Bentley: I for one, enjoyed and got a kick out of your message and your trials & tribulations as a new young beekeeper. I don't know how you managed to kill the 'thousands' of bees that you mentionned.. An aside...you do need to check how you send your e-mail, as you may not realize it but we on BEE-L received your message 'doubled'..which did make for an exceedingly long affair. Anyway, your story brought a :-) to my face. What are you doing drinking so much coffee at your tender age of 14 yrs? Keep up the interest !! You aren't alone......... Al, Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program Check Out " The Amazing BeeCam " At: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 10:18:47 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "P. Aras et M. Boily" Subject: Re: Parasitic wasps MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Peter, Could you tell me what species of wasps are used for fly control and/or the name of your supplier? Thanks Philippe ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 10:54:24 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: READ THIS DR. RODRIQUEZ, I THOUGHT THAT YOU WOULD GET A KICK OUT OF IT!! Comments: To: bjhensel@metro.net In a message dated 97-04-15 08:20:41 EDT, bjhensel@metro.net (BRIAN HENSEL) writes: << If I could have as many bee's as I wanted I would probably have about 50 to 100 hives, so that I could rent them out for pollination. Plus get all the honey to sell. >> Brian, Unless you can talk orange or canola growers into paying for pollination, you have to give up honey production to do pollination. Amazing how many growers don't realize this either. Maybe you've been talking to them? ;<) Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Varietal Honeys and Gift Sets http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 11:05:39 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "P. Aras et M. Boily" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Brandon, Here are a few references that are interesting (i.e fascinating): - Jazen, D. H. (1967) Interaction of the bull's-horn acacia (Acacia cornigera L.) with an ant inhabitant (Pseudomyrmex ferruginea F. Smith) in Eastern Mexico. University of Kansas Science Bulletin, 47:315-558 - Ants of the genus Atta and the mushroom they farm (sorry, I can't be more specific) - Beetles of the family Scolitidae and the fungus associated with the different species - The male ichneumonid wasp Lissapimpla excelsa and the orchid Cryptostylis subulata. (orchids are a good source of examples of insect-plant mutualism) - Bees and the flowering plants are another example of co-evolutionnary mutualism. Hope it's usefull Philippe ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:33:01 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Beeworks Subject: Re: Warming 55 Gallons In-Reply-To: <3352FB46.2004@birkey.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 14 Apr 97 at 22:51, Barry Birkey wrote: Re: HeartsHomeFarm: HeartsHomeFarm: > Edward A Markus wrote: > > > > A not so new but still struggling beekeeper (myself), asks, now that > > have I found a source of HFCS I feel I can afford , how the heck do I > > reliquify a barrel of this great product? 1. cheaply 2. easily ?? > > It sounds like you and Mr. Eyre ought to talk to each other. Didn't we just hear of a > nifty solution to this problem coming from Canada? Some kind of band heater? Take it > from here, David. I have never been one to hide my light under a barrel. So for the ones not interested, I aplolgise for the use of your time. "Melt Belt" One of the major problems with beekeeping is the storage of the honey crop. One way is to pack it quickly and sell it before it has time to granulate. The second way is to store in larger containers, 50 or 100 lbs and even larger. Now we have a problem! How to get the honey out when it becomes solid? The ways are legion, from large, bulky, space consuming warming cabinets, to the uneconomical bathtub filled with hot water. NO MORE! "Melt Belt" to the rescue!! Designed specifically to slow warm plastic pails, it wraps around and is held in place by friction. Electrical, works on 110 volts, low wattage, CSA approved. No thermostat necessary, no scorching possible. One year unconditional guarantee. Operating costs? No more than leaving on a light bulb. Works on plastic or stainless steel, for very large containers two or more could be used. Cost? Just $14.75 US or $19.95 CDN. Please e-mail with your address to check shipping costs. Look out for a larger version (coming shortly) suitable to warm your extractor. Warm honey filters faster! ********************************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 13:33:03 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Beeworks Subject: Re: temperature In-Reply-To: <33527EB8.76BF@massmed.org> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 14 Apr 97 at 15:00, Gert-Paul Walter wrote: Re: temperature > at lower temps. Also the inside of the hive must be much warmer than > outside at that temp range. As the temp goes down, do bees have less > flying time. Are they "warmed by the cluster" and are they then able to > fly for a short distance for cleansing flights etc. At what temp does > their flying activity fail to keep them warm enough so they don't make > it back to the hive? Gert Walter It always amazes me at the low temp at which bees will fly. Only today I was in the yard, topping up the pollen feeders. It's a bright sunny day, no cloud, but a real cold wind out of the North. With the wind chill factor I bet it was minus 2 maybe colder, yet there were bees in the feeder, and not just one or two. If the returns are good enough, then the bees seem not to care, or was it the sun which warmed them up? ********************************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada. L3V 6H1 David Eyre, Owner. Phone/Fax 705 326 7171 Dealers for E.H.Thorne & B.J.Sherriff UK http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 10 Apr 1997 12:46:01 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steve Turner Organization: Beenet the computer network for beekeepers Subject: test The gate to bee-L is under test Steven Turner G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of Amigabee ... Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 16:27:50 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jorge Euclides Tello Duran Subject: I like OFF of BestOfBee@systronic.next Comments: cc: BestOfBee@systronix.net In-Reply-To: <09114367711517@systronix.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Thanks in advance Jorge Tello ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 15:25:55 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Apitherapy for MS In-Reply-To: <860676361@amigabee.org.uk> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hi all I have a colleague here at work who's wife has Multiple Sclerosis and he is interested in getting some information about bee stings as a treatment. I also understand you can get the venom in injectable form with needles as opposed to bees..;) Also if there are any people in my area (Niagara region in Ontario, Canada) who have experience with this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ian @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @ Ian Watson @ @ iwatson@freenet.npiec.on.ca @ @ @ @ THREE BEES: @ @ Bach singer ,/// @ @ Bee keeper >8'III}- @ @ Bell ringer ',\\\ @ @ @ @ 5 hives, 2 years in Beekeeping @ @ St. Catharines, Canada @ @ "I BEE, therefore I am" @ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 16:38:00 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Palm, Kevin R. (LLP)" Subject: Gabled roof plans for Langstroth Hive Hello all, I have been toying with the idea of adding a gabled roof, ala the WBC or British National Hive, to my Langstroths. Not for any practical reason, I assure you, just because I like the way they look. Does anyone on the list have any idea where I might find a set of drawings or plans that would allow me to build my own?? Any response would be greatly appreciated, either to this address, the list, or my home addy, aa2363@lcfn.org. Thanks a lot!! Kevin Palm Grafton, Ohio USA ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 17:47:18 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Thomas W. Hoyt" Subject: Kids & Beekeeping In a message dated 97-04-14 20:00:45 EDT, you write: << This is a hobby and I enjoy doing the work. If I were running a business my views would be different. I have the time for the most part, I want to save the money. My 12 year old son also works with me. He loves spending the time with me and the labor is cheap although you have to settle for lower quality of work. The quality of the time spent together is immeasurable. >> If there were no other reason to keep bees your comments about the 12 year old son is enuf to make it all worthwhile. I've got photos of every one of my kids (son & 2 daughters) proudly holding a branch with their first caught Swarm. I cherish those events. Might I make a suggestion... as soon as that 12 year old is out of the nest - find another 12 year old and introduce him/her to the hobby. The rewards continue even if it isn't your own kid!! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 20:10:34 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Re: Apitherapy for MS Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Contact: Pat wagner beelady @olg.com Billy bee ---------- > From: Ian Watson > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Apitherapy for MS > Date: 15 avr. 1997 15:25 > > Hi all > > I have a colleague here at work who's wife has Multiple Sclerosis and he > is interested in getting some information about bee stings as a treatment. > I also understand you can get the venom in injectable form with needles as > opposed to bees..;) Also if there are any people in my area (Niagara > region in Ontario, Canada) who have experience with this. > Any help would be appreciated. > Thanks, > Ian > @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ > @ Ian Watson @ > @ iwatson@freenet.npiec.on.ca @ > @ @ > @ THREE BEES: @ > @ Bach singer ,/// @ > @ Bee keeper >8'III}- @ > @ Bell ringer ',\\\ @ > @ @ > @ 5 hives, 2 years in Beekeeping @ > @ St. Catharines, Canada @ > @ "I BEE, therefore I am" @ > @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 18:58:03 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bob Oliver Subject: Re: VARROA Comments: To: bjhensel@metro.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I wasn't around at the time.... I'm starting 4 hives this year and would like to know about this Could you repost it... Bob ---------- > From: BRIAN HENSEL > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: VARROA > Date: Monday, April 14, 1997 11:40 PM > > Hi everyone; > I sent a copy of a letter that I have sent to Dr. Rodriquez to Bee-L > Because in Bently's letter he mentions useing oils in treating his hive > and he hasn't had the varroa mite invade yet. I'm happy to say after I > followed Dr. Rodriquez's suggestion of mineral oil on strips that I have > not had any sign of varroa after my hive almost died from varroa. Has > any one else tried this method? > All of you who have been on bee-l last winter should remember Dr. > Rodriquez, when he caused quit a stir for mentioning his ideas of useing > mineral oil to the list. I haven't read a thing since if anybody else > has tried his methods. > THANK YOU VERY MUCH > BRIAN HENSEL > bjhensel@metro.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 00:40:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: HeartsHomeFarm: HeartsHomeFarm: Question: Warming 55 Gallons of EAM>From: Edward A Markus >Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 23:28:46 EDT >Subject: HeartsHomeFarm: HeartsHomeFarm: Question: Warming 55 Gallons >Message-ID: <19970315.084728.11470.0.HeartsHomeFarm@juno.com> EAM> A not so new but still struggling beekeeper (myself), asks, now that >have I found a source of HFCS I feel I can afford , how the heck do I >reliquify a barrel of this great product? 1. cheaply 2. easily ?? I would not touch any HFCS syrup that is not liquid. HFC prices are at very low point right now and I can think of no reason to take a chance on any old stock or damaged goods. HFC does not normally granulate unless it has been mis handled by the addition of contaminates. ttul, OLd Drone BTW It was not very long ago that much damage and loss was caused by feeding "off grade" HFCS syrup. Don't know if the beekeepers who lost thousands of hives ever got a settlement, but for sure they are looking a little closer at any sugar they buy. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ Imker, Bienenzuechter and Bienenvater ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 01:21:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Meniere's Disease BT>From: Bill Truesdell >Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 09:14:49 -0700 >Subject: Meniere's Disease BT>This might be a little off the wall for this list but would appreciate >any comments you might have about meniere's disease and beekeeping, >specifically being stung. >I have Meniere's, which is a disease of the inner ear. It causes periods >of extream dizziness; ringing in the ear; loss of hearing; and a >"fullness" on the side of the head affected. >the dizziness and seem to have the disease in check. I have not suffered >from an attack of dizziness since I started keeping bees. Hi Bill, Good to read someone is benefiting from keeping bees and the bee stings. Writing from my own prospective I like to hear about the effects of bee stings, good one's, as we all know the bad one's. Antidotal information may not be scientific, but it is one of the building blocks that results in much good science. Other then that all of us OLd Drones who suffer from the dying process need all the help we can get. No fooling, I have a cancer on my noise!! I have been fighting this skin cancer, a tumor about as big as a nickel, for years with both lazer gun surgery, and the latest chemical products that makes the cancer genes turn on each other...still got the cancer, so not too long ago I read about the guy with the swollen lymph node who applied bee stings and it got better. I know he had a different flavor of cancer, I had that too, but what the heck it's my noise... Well I have been catching a bee a day off the lemon tree and after a sting or two in my fingers, that don't have any problems, I have been getting it on the cancer on my noise. It does hurt and takes several minutes for the stinger to pump a full load, and I shed a tear or two, but if it works and along with the prescribed chemical treatments the cancer goes away I will be publishing my own antidotal comments on the benefit's of bee stings, at least on my own tumor...it will bee about a month before the chemical effects are gone and the skin heals and I think I can handle a sting or two a day without much effort if the cancer is gone, better then the next step, a plastic noise, but then I do get my choice of style...humm.. maybe a real long one for when I am around beekeepers. ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ... Some bee had stung it newly. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:01:59 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Apitherapy for MS On Tue, 15 Apr 1997 20:10:34 -0400 bartlett writes: >Contact: Pat wagner beelady @olg.com > > Billy bee Ian: You can also go to Wolf's Web Site which is all about one man's (his own) experience with apitherapy & MS. http://www.az.com/~jwolf/history.html If you forget or lose the above address, there is a link to his site on my web site's "Surfing For Bees" page. Al, Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program Check Out " The Amazing BeeCam " At: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:24:06 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ken Coyle Subject: Honey Festival MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does any one have information on a honey festival to be held in Beeton, Ontario sometime in May? -- Ken Coyle Bees the producers of honey. kcoyle@hookup.net http://www.hookup.net/~kcoyle ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 23:03:36 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Re: Honey Festival In-Reply-To: <33543846.3C78@hookup.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Tue, 15 Apr 1997, Ken Coyle wrote: > Does any one have information on a honey festival to be held in Beeton, > Ontario sometime in May? My brother and his wife live right in Beeton so I will email them and find out what they know about it. I still don't know why they dont get some bees, as Beeton was named after the areas historical beekeeping prominance....;) @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @ Ian Watson @ @ iwatson@freenet.npiec.on.ca @ @ @ @ THREE BEES: @ @ Bach singer ,/// @ @ Bee keeper >8'III}- @ @ Bell ringer ',\\\ @ @ @ @ 5 hives, 2 years in Beekeeping @ @ St. Catharines, Canada @ @ "I BEE, therefore I am" @ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:14:00 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bob Oliver Subject: Hive plans MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I like to know if anyone has plans to build your own hive. The search engines are of no use or I'm not using them right. Thanks Bob ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 22:24:19 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Simics Subject: Bee venom therapy for MS Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Dear Ian, There has been some very positive results from studies using bee venom. If you want more information on the products available that you mentioned please call, write or e-mail to: Michael Simics Apitronic Services 4640 Pendlebury Rd. Richmond, BC Canada, V7E 1E7 Ph/Fax (604) 271-9414 msimics@direct.ca We deal exclusively with bee venom and other apitherapy products. There is also considerably more literature available now than ever before. Michael ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:23:18 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Hans Werner Wunderlich Subject: VARROA Hi Brian, hi everyone, where can i find a description of the method using mineral oil strips? Thanks Hans W.Wunderlich hawewu@rs.uni-siegen.de ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 05:28:00 -0600 Reply-To: ribac@wi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Randy, Isa & Alina Chase" Subject: Re: Parasitic wasps MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have used the parasitic wasps for four years with no apparent affect on my bees. We live in an agricultural area where there is a abundance of flies. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:06:03 -0500 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Theodore V. Fischer" Subject: RE> Disinfecting nosema hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dan Goodwin wrote: > I have a hive which died from Nosema. The inside of the hive is > quites dirty. Is there a procedure for cleaning/disinfecting so I can > re-use the equipment safely. I basically just scrape the encrusted dirt from the top, bottom and side bars of the frames, scrape the inside of the brood chambers, and give the frames back to strong hives. They will clean up the combs very nicely. To control further nosema, be sure to feed Fumadil in your sugar syrup. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:13:06 -0500 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Theodore V. Fischer" Subject: Re: Help on Amitraz/Taktik for Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John Iannuzzi wrote: > > (1) A beefriend wants to know how to use the subject-line > chemicals to control T- and V-mites in honeybees. > Specifically, how does one cut the material in water > and how is the resultant applied? > I repeat: this query is NOT mine but posed by a friend. > In the USA, these substances are not approved at this time for bees, if I have my information right. Therefore there are no procedures for cutting them in water or applying them. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 5 Jan 1980 15:11:11 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lauren Hale Subject: Re: AHB in Costa Rica In-Reply-To: <3354D062.4418@umich.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello again, I am sorry to request this information again, but my hard-drive recently collapsed resulting in an *entire loss* of all personal files and eudora e-mails. (Note, this is a reminder to backup all of your important files--NOW!) Once again, my name is Lauren Hale. I am doing research on Africanized Honey Bees in Costa Rica. I am interested in gaining contacts of people who would be familiar with the subject. If you can provide me with e-mails or appropriate bibliographic information, I would be quite grateful. For those of you who responded before, I appreciate your quick responses and advice. I hope it won't be too much trouble to write to me again. Thank you. Lauren ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:42:53 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Morris Booton Subject: Re: Hive plans On 4/15/97 11:14PM, in message <199704160308.VAA25774@elpasonet.net>, Bob Oliver wrote: Bob I have a book "Build It Better Yourself" from Organic Gardening with the plans. Send me your address and I'll mail them to you. Morris Booton booton@internetland.net > I like to know if anyone has plans to build your own hive. > The search engines are of no use or I'm not using them right. > > Thanks > Bob > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:44:41 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Help on Amitraz/Taktik for Bees In-Reply-To: <3354D062.4418@umich.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > John Iannuzzi wrote: > > > > (1) A beefriend wants to know how to use the subject-line > > chemicals to control T- and V-mites in honeybees. > > Specifically, how does one cut the material in water > > and how is the resultant applied? > > I repeat: this query is NOT mine but posed by a friend. > > > In the USA, these substances are not approved at this time for bees, > if I have my information right. Therefore there are no procedures for > cutting them in water or applying them. There are many procedures that are not legal in the USA, but exist nontheless. There are also a number of very legitimate reasons for knowing about these procedures. One of them may be that the enquirer does not live under US law (with the possible exception of Helms-Burton and California civil law which apparently reaches *everywhere* ). Another might be that the person enquiring is a regulator and wants to understand this illegal procedure. I for one do not live under US law, except when I travel in the USA, and although the mentioned substances are not permitted for the specified uses here in Canada either, I understand the need for free interchange of information. Although disseminationg knowledge has its risks and costs, the price of ignorance and censorship is much higher. I would be interetested in the details. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:39:09 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul van Westendorp of AGF 576-3737 Fax: 576-3730" Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 14 Apr 1997 to 15 Apr 1997 In-Reply-To: <01IHQYAHUO5ECB9B61@saturn.gov.bc.ca> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Re. Mavrik/Amitraz Use in Beehives I read with some concern the communication on the use of amitraz in beehives and the type of formula needed. My suggestion is NEVER use the product in your colonies. Based on data collected over 15 years (primarily intended to consider the use of amitraz to control pear psylla in pear orchards), I wrote a short article in 1991 on the nature of this product. While Apistan (ie. fluvalinate) has a very low mammalian toxicity, amitraz is exceedingly toxic especially man. Stay away from it! PS. For anyone wishing a copy of the 91 article, please e.mail directly. Paul van Westendorp pvanwesten@galaxy.gov.bc.ca Provincial Apiculturist British Columbia ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:51:18 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Faith Andrews Bedford Subject: Re: FWIW Department: Re: Essential Oils In the discussion of the beekeeper who soaked paper towels in canola oil and wintergreeen you stated that there were errors. What were these errors since his method sure sounded simple. Faith Andrews Bedford Ivy VA and Tampa ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:12:00 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Bee Tree Hello all, This saturday morning is supposed to be beautiful, weather-wise, and I have an appointment to remove a bee colony from a bee tree. I thought I'd share my plan and solicit any pointers or recommendations anyone may have. First of all, the hive is in front of a beautiful old house in a wonderful neighborhood. The home owner was going to exterminate the bees because the tree is dead and falling down. Many neighbors, including a list member, requested that he make an effort to "save the bees". (Maybe that would make a great t-short or bumper sticker, to co-opt the "save the Whales" line and use it to spread knowledge of the plight of our friends and the varroa mite.) Anyway, that neighbor on the list put a message on BeeLine, I answered and now we're going to do it! The tree needs to be cut down and we plan to do that first, then cut the limbs off and start locating the bees in the trunk by slicing the trunk above and below the hole they use for an entrance with the chainsaw. Once we have found the extent of the hive in the tree, we plan to slice the trunk on each side of the entrance with the chainsaw and split the hive. Since comb is almost always built perpendicular to the entrance this, I believe, would keep most of the comb whole yet give us access to the hive. After this I believe the bees will start fanning where the queen is and should give us a clue as to where to start searching for her. Next I will capture her and some bees in a cup and put them in a hive I have ready for this purpose. Then I want to put the hive with about five frames of comb and foundation between the two halves of the hive to attract as many workers as possible into the hive. Now comes the fun (difficult) part, we're going to remove the old comb from the halves of the trunk and cut them so that they fit in empty frames. I will always keep the upward side up so that cells maintain their upward tilt. After wedging the pieces of comb in the frames I plan to tie them in with cotton string which the bees can remove later. In accomplishing this I want to process brood first and honey second. I will get as much of the "wild" comb as possible into frames in the hive and then move the hive to my backyard for two weeks. The homeowner who wanted to kill the bees earlier now wants to keep them in his backyard! After two weeks I will return the hive to his backyard and work the hive from there. Any bits of comb with honey will be used for public relations for the neighbors who will no doubt be watching from a safe distance. I plan to monitor these bees as closely as possible to see how they fare with varroa. I have been told that they have been in this tree for at least 3 years. In the process of cutting the comb I want to see if there are any varroa mites in the drone brood if there is any drone brood. If these bees are somehow successfully coexisting with varroa, I plan to share progeny of this queen with that program that is looking for varroa tolerant stock. I forget who was running that but it is in the logs and I can find that later. I know there is varroa in the area because my bees have had varroa only 7 miles away. Keep in mind this is just a plan and the bees pay change them as they are prone to do to us beekeepers. Are there any things I can plan to do better? Is my plan sound? I developed this plan from the Aebls book on beekeeping for those who want a reference. Ted Wout Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:11:06 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: The Christensens Subject: Re: VARROA Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:23 AM 4/16/97 +0200, you wrote: >Hi Brian, >hi everyone, > >where can i find a description of the method using mineral oil strips? > >Thanks >Hans W.Wunderlich >hawewu@rs.uni-siegen.de > > I don't think you can. It seems to be a deep dark secret for some reason. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:49:45 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: VARROA On Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:11:06 -0400 The Christensens writes: >At 09:23 AM 4/16/97 +0200, you wrote: > I don't think you can. It seems to be a deep dark secret for some >reason. Is this not the 'Dr Rodriques' method. If so then you can find his messages on the subject by searching the BEE-List archives. See the method quoted below: Try the months back in the late fall, I believe. Anyone remember when the good Doc was active on this subject? ............................................................. BEE-L LOGS are available from the host site (University at Albany) and can be retrieved by sending mail to LISTSERV@cnsibm.albany.edu with a single line in the body of the mail that reads: GET BEE-L LOG9703A Since 1996, logs have been kept on a weekly basis. The format of the log name identifies the log by year, month and week. Hence, to get the log from the third week in July, 1996 one would send a single line of mail that reads: GET BEE-L LOG9607C where 96 is the year, 07 is the month and C is the third week. Prior to 1996 logs were kept on a monthly basis, so to get the logs for the third week in July in 1989 the single line sent to: LISTSERV@cnsibm.albany.edu would read: GET BEE-L LOG8907 Please note that these commands get mailed to LISTSERV as opposed to BEE-L. BEE-L logs are available back to July, 1989. Admisistratively yours, Aaron Morris ................................................. Al, Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program Check Out " The Amazing BeeCam " At: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 14:00:08 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Dr. Rodriguez and mineral oil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Dr. Rodriguez never posted his food grade mineral oil claims directly on BEE-L. He announced his findings at ABF in Norfolk in January and some BEE-L members attending wrote about Dr. R's announcement after ABF. Those posts can be found in the January '97 BEE-L LOGs. Perhaps: BEE-L LOG9701B BEE-L LOG9701C BEE-L LOG9701D Prior to ABF, Dr. Rodriguez only announced that he would make his announcement at ABF. Aaron Morris ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 02:49:42 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Guy Miller Subject: Bee tree Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have never gone through the entire process, but I have an opinion nevertheless. I was once called to get a hive out of a tree that had been knocked down in a storm. I cut into it in the more-or-less right places, but the fall had collapsed all the comb together into one sticky glob. Most of the bees had drowned, or whatever the proper term is, in honey. I decided it was beyond my ability to salvage it. My feeling is that felling the entire tree before you get to the part with the bees is likely to be fatal to the hive. Professional tree guys working in an urban environment will usuually take it down from the top, lowering each section as they cut. Guy F. Miller Charlottesville. VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:36:38 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: VARROA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Subject: Re: VARROA Reply-to: allend@internode.net > >where can i find a description of the method using mineral oil strips? > I don't think you can. It seems to be a deep dark secret for some reason. It is not a deep dark secret. It was revealed in detail at the Virginia meeting of the ABF by Dr. Rodriguez. The method is still somewhat preliminary, not having undergone scrutiny by other workers, but has shown itself to be promising. The method is also a bit labour intensive at present. Dr. Rodriguez is working on verifying his results and finding an application procedure that requires less manipulation.. Dr. Rodriguez found himself in the middle of a bit of controversy at the time he first started to revealed his findings, since scientists typically release their findings to other scientists first, receive a review, then proceed to publicize the results. Since the convention he has been working on his paper and looking for the appropriate moment for publication. I have offered to put his article on a web site for all to see and evaluate, however he is not ready yet. You can write him direct at and ask him if he will explain the procedure to you. I would be surprised if he would not. (Please CC me the results if you do so). TIA Allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 16:48:52 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Re: VARROA Hello All, Hans W.Wunderlich wrote: >where can i find a description of the method using mineral oil strips? The Christensens wrote: > I don't think you can. It seems to be a deep dark secret for some reason. I searched the logs that I have downloaded and found some serious flames that I don't even want to include here. My PC is overheating from all of the activity. I believe that the following clips sum it up: Beekeepers at NorfolkEduChamps@aol.com wrote: > > >Essentially his method involves using stips of common waxed paper > >coated with food grade mineral oil. The strips are inserted into the > hive and > >left for two weeks at which time new strips are inserted. Details > later. Al Needham wrote: > Admittedly I am a hobbyist and not a long time experienced Beekeeper as > some are on this List. > > I am sorry, but I do not see this method as that "astounding'! > > Is it not a "take-off" on grease patties of sorts! > > Welcome comments from those of you who are experienced commercial > beekeepers. > > No disrespect to the good Doctor! Dr. Pedro Rodriguez wrote: >I am sure that you will when you have all the facts in hand. Just >consider this in the meantime: >mites/100 capped cell count went from 54 % to 2.0%. Compare that to >recorded data for other methods of treatment for a comparable period of >time. I would appreciate your comments after you have obtained that >evaluation. I am sure that others will also. I guess that Al's comments are appropriate. While I don't intend any disrespect the proof hasn't been in any of the posting pudding I've read lately. Of course if the methods do work as well and Dr. R says it would take some time for it to become common knowledge. Is anybody out there trying this? Has it worked so far? Have hives crashed despite this treatment? Have any reputable journals published Dr. R's work? Has anyone disproved Dr R's work? Please don't use this as a springboard to resume the flaming. If there is any merit to this procedure, I for one would like to know. It's amazing to me that so much bandwidth was dedicated to this topic during the month of January and those of us who have been patiently waiting for the results, pro or con, are still waiting. I think that if anyone knows for sure and can back it up, they should share it on the list and the rest of us should either try or discard it and keep our flamethrowers turned off. Ted Wout Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 00:59:25 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jxrn Johanesson Subject: The Beekeeping Software to expencive ??? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit EDBi and I have been discussing the registration fee for the Beekeeping software, distributed by EDBi and developed by me! We have decided to make a special offer for the beekeeper with only a few hives to maintain (Max 20) Please email to apimo@post4.tele.dk for more information and introduktion! regards Jorn Johanesson http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/edbi.htm for download of software. /Jorn Johanesson EDBi = Beekeeping software e-mail apimo@post4.tele.dk edbi homepage http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/edbi.htm ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 00:32:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: HeartsHomeFarm: HeartsHomeFarm: Question: Warming 55 Gallons of EAM>From: Edward A Markus >Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 23:28:46 EDT >Subject: HeartsHomeFarm: HeartsHomeFarm: Question: Warming 55 Gallons EAM> A not so new but still struggling beekeeper (myself), asks, now that >have I found a source of HFCS I feel I can afford , how the heck do I >reliquify a barrel of this great product? 1. cheaply 2. easily ?? I would not touch any HFCS syrup that is not liquid. HFC prices are at very low point right now and I can think of no reason to take a chance on any old stock or damaged goods. HFC does not normally granulate unless it has been mis handled by the addition of contaminates. ttul, OLd Drone BTW It was not very long ago that much damage and loss was caused by feeding "off grade" HFCS syrup. Don't know if the beekeepers who lost thousands of hives ever got a settlement, but for sure they are looking a little closer at any sugar they buy. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ Imker, Bienenzuechter and Bienenvater ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 00:37:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Meniere's Disease BT>From: Bill Truesdell >Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 09:14:49 -0700 >Subject: Meniere's Disease BT>This might be a little off the wall for this list but would appreciate >any comments you might have about meniere's disease and beekeeping, >specifically being stung. >I have Meniere's, which is a disease of the inner ear. It causes periods >of extream dizziness; ringing in the ear; loss of hearing; and a >"fullness" on the side of the head affected. >the dizziness and seem to have the disease in check. I have not suffered >from an attack of dizziness since I started keeping bees. Hi Bill, Good to read someone is benefiting from keeping bees and the bee stings. Writing from my own prospective I like to hear about the effects of bee stings, good one's, as we all know the bad one's. Antidotal information may not be scientific, but it is one of the building blocks that results in much good science. Other then that all of us OLd Drones who suffer from the dying process need all the help we can get. No fooling, I have a cancer on my noise!! I have been fighting this skin cancer, a tumor about as big as a nickel, for years with both lazer gun surgery, and the latest chemical products that makes the cancer genes turn on each other...still got the cancer, so not too long ago I read about the guy with the swollen lymph node who applied bee stings and it got better. I know he had a different flavor of cancer, I had that too, but what the heck it's my noise... Well I have been catching a bee a day off the lemon tree and after a sting or two in my fingers, that don't have any problems, I have been getting it on the cancer on my noise. It does hurt and takes several minutes for the stinger to pump a full load, and I shed a tear or two, but if it works and along with the prescribed chemical treatments the cancer goes away I will be publishing my own antidotal comments on the benefit's of bee stings, at least on my own tumor...it will bee about a month before the chemical effects are gone and the skin heals and I think I can handle a sting or two a day without much effort if the cancer is gone, better then the next step, a plastic noise, but then I do get my choice of style...humm.. maybe a real long one for when I am around beekeepers. ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ... Some bee had stung it newly. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:10:42 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tim Townsend Organization: TPLR Honey Farms Subject: Report from central Alberta MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All: I feel like we are really behind all of our southern conterparts when I post this, but I have seen our FIRST fresh pollen coming into the hives today, from the willows. So I guess I can figure spring has finally sprung here in the Great White North. :) Bees look much better this spring than last, good size and good reserves of feed. We haven't unwrapped yet, we have traditionally done it at about this time, but I have noticed over the last number of years that the last ones unwrapped tend to do the best, it normally takes us about 10 days to unwrap and reverse the outfit. If the weather stays good, probably add a few days because of poor weather. Best regards Tim ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 21:28:48 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Thomas W. Hoyt" Subject: Re: Dr. Rodriguez and mineral oil In a message dated 97-04-16 17:13:51 EDT, you write: << Those posts can be found in the January '97 BEE-L LOGs. >> Sounds interesting ... but , how might I retrieve a copy of those 'logs' ? ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 21:29:51 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Thomas W. Hoyt" Subject: Re: Bee Tree I've tried putting bees and comb into frames - - and it didn't work very well. The comb simply never got 'attached' to the frames. The only difference was my bees had moved into a seldom used shed and built from the rafters. We had combs that exteded downward for THREE FEET!! I would suggest, after you have the hive isolated that you stand that section on the ground. Place a piece of plywood with a large hole in the center on top of that section - and a regular hive body on top of the log/plywood. The bees will 'move up' into the hive body, eventually vacating the log. At this point the log can be disposed of. Keep building on top of the body. My $.02 worth. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 21:20:53 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Re: Hive plans MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: Bob Oliver > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Hive plans > Date: Wednesday, April 16, 1997 12:14 AM > > I like to know if anyone has plans to build your own hive. > The search engines are of no use or I'm not using them right. > > Thanks > Bob Check out Barry' s Bee Page at www.birkey.com/BLB/index.html. You can download hive plans and other neat things in PDF form and read them with Adobe reader which you can download while you are there. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:36:10 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: VARROA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Well, I think it is now time to lay claim to the exquisite piece of journalistic prose quoted so beautifully below. I wrote it hurriedly from a booth at Norfolk, using Dave & Jan's account. They wrote some pieces under that nom de plume and I wrote others, but that one is mine. I had thought by now that Dr. Pedro would have published the work, but since that does not seem to be the case, I will tell you what I know. I promised 'details later' here they are: When some of us arrived at the appointed room at the appointed time, the talk was almost over. Dr. Rodriguez graciously backed up a bit and recapped, then after finishing with the first group, went over his talk again for the benefit of us latecomers. In short, he had a huge slide blow-up of a varroa mite on the projector screen, and pointed out the pores that dotted the surface. He stated that that was the weak point of the varroa mite that he exploited in his treatment. He also explained that he had been a veterinarian doctor with the Spanish military and had seen the first varroa to arrive in Spain. He pointed out that the mites used the pores to breathe and to manage their water balance and that if the pores were blocked, the mites would perish. I conjectured at this point something I don't believe that he actually stated explicitly, and that is this: because of the relatively small size of the mite compared to a bee, the mite's pores are sufficiently small that a tiny glaze of oil would be drawn in and *held* by capillary action in the tiny pores, while much much more would be needed to block the larger openings in a bee. (Also there may be a considerable difference in respiratory action -- if a mite actually inhales). Anyhow I am guessing as to a mechanism here He had a number of hives in his experiment -- the exact count escapes me -- but it was a fair sized yard of bees that he divided into controls and subjects. The subjects were treated every two weeks with strips of ordinary kitchen waxed paper about 2" wide and about 14" long that he placed across the top bars of brood chamber frames. Each 6-1/2" end of each strip he then pushed down into the bee space between frames, using a hive tool. I do not recall how many strips he used, but there must have been about 10 per box? Before using these strips he prepared them at home by placing a drop or so of food grade mineral oil on the paper, stacking the strips up, and smoothing them so that the oil was pressed out in a very thin layer on each surface of each strip. Moderation is important, since he also pointed out that oil can also be fatal to bees if applied in excess. After 2 weeks the strips would be dry and chewed, and he would remove them and replace them with new ones. After continuing this treatment for some time, all his control hives succumbed to varroa, but the treated hives were fine. Later, when he did a 100 cell mite count at the end of the season, he could find *very* few mites in the treated hives. He said the mites were almost extinct at the convention time, but he did not want to uncap all his brood (in January) just to find a mite or two if any were indeed still there. Apparently the treated hives had wintered well. I understood that he used *no other* mite treatment during the year long experiment. When we identified ourselves as BEE-Lers, he greeted us most enthusiastically and we talked at length. Last I corresponded with him, he said he is looking for a less labour intensive method, refining his work, and intending to publish soon. > Beekeepers at Norfolk wrote: > >Essentially his method involves using stips of common waxed paper > >coated with food grade mineral oil. The strips are inserted into the > hive andleft for two weeks at which time new strips are inserted. > Details later. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:17:30 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: Bee Tree In a message dated 97-04-16 13:46:46 EDT, you write: << once we have found the extent of the hive in the tree, we plan to slice the trunk on each side of the entrance with the chainsaw and split the hive. Since comb is almost always built perpendicular to the entrance this, I believe, would keep most of the comb whole yet give us access to the hive. After this I believe the bees will start fanning where the queen is and should give us a clue as to where to start searching for her. Next I will capture her and some bees in a cup and put them in a hive I have ready for this purpose. Then I want to put the hive with about five frames of comb and foundation between the two halves of the hive to attract as many workers as possible into the hive. (snip further description >> Whew! You must enjoy doing a lot of work. I suggest an easier way (with much less stress on the bees). Take the section containing the bees back to your beeyard. Lay it on its side. The queen is reluctant to lay in comb that is not correctly oriented. If necessary take the chain saw, and using it as a power rasp, try to smooth off the area around the entrance, so that a 16 x 20 inch plywood piece can be placed on the flattened area. There should be a hole in the plywood that corresponds with the opening in the tree. Place a deep super over this, with brood comb in it. Use a bottom board upside down to give them an exit, or use an old super with a hole somewhere. The bees will be forced to go through it to exit, and the queen will soon move up into the box. As soon as she is established, put an excluder below the box. After a few days the brood from below will all be emerged and you can set aside the new hive. Let them rob out the tree, and you have them, queen and all. Getting the queen could be important, if you have found a varroa resistant strain in the wild. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:47:09 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Sten Tegfors Subject: Take me off the list MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please, take me off the bee-l list ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 04:04:45 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ron Harriger Subject: BEE TREE MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: application/msword Content-transfer-encoding: BASE64 CQBIaSBGb2xrcywAAABIACAgICAgICAgQXMgdGhlIHlvdW5nZXIgcGVvcGxlIHdv dWxkIHNheSwgYmVlbiB0aGVyZSwgZG9uZSB0aGF0LiBJIGdvdCBhIEcAY2FsbCBm cm9tIGEgZnJhbnRpYyBob21lIG93bmVyIGFib3V0IGEgYmVlIHRyZWUgaW4gaGlz IHlhcmQuIEhlIGN1dCB0aGUASgB0cmVlIGRvd24gbm90IGtub3dpbmcgdGhhdCB0 aGlydHkgZmVldCBhYm92ZSBoaW0gd2FzIGEgaGl2ZSBvZiBob25leSBiZWVzLkkA QWZ0ZXIgdGhlIHRyZWUgaGl0IHRoZSBncm91bmQgaGUgd2VudCB0b3dhcmQgdGhl IHRvcCwgbGltYmluZyBhcyBoZSB3ZW50IABLAHVudGlsIGhlIHJhbiBpbnRvIHRo ZSBhbmdyeSBiZWVzLiBIZSBzdXN0YWluZWQgc2V2ZXJhbCBzdGluZ3MgYmVmb3Jl IGRyb3BwLQBKAGluZyBoaXMgY2hhaW4gc2F3IGFuZCBydW5uaW5nIGxpa2UgbWFk IHRyeWluZyB0byBnZXQgYXdheSBmcm9tIHRoZSBhdHRhY3QtSgBpbmcgYmVlcy4g IEhlIHJlY292ZXJlZCBoaXMgY2hhaW4gc2F3IGFmdGVyIGRhcmssIG5vIGxvbmdl ciBydW5uaW5nLCB3aGVuIEsAdGhlIHRlbXBlcmF0dXJlIHdlbnQgZG93biBhbmQg dGhlIGJlZXMgcmV0dXJuZWQgdG8gY292ZXIgdGhlIGJyb29kIGluIHRoZWlyAEgA bmVzdC4gSSBhcnJpdmVkIG9uIHRoZSBzY2VuZSB0aGUgZm9sbG93aW5nIGRheSB0 byBzdXJ2ZXkgdGhlIGRhbWFnZSBkb25lSQB0byB0aGUgYmVlcyBhbmQgb2YgY291 cnNlIGxvb2sgYXQgdGhlIHdvdW5kcyBpbmZsaWN0ZWQgdXBvbiB0aGUgY2hhaW4g c2F3AEcAdGhlIHdvdW5kcyBpbmZsZWN0ZWQgdXBvbiB0aGUgY2hhaW4gc2F3IHdp ZWxkaW5nIG93bmVyLiBIZSBoYWQgc2V2ZXJhbCAASQBsYXJnZSBidW1wcyBvbiBo aXMgYmFsZCBoZWFkIGFuZCBzb21lIG9uIGhpcyBhcm1zIGFuZCBoYW5kcy4gSSBh bSBiYWxkaW5nAEoAdG8gYW5kIGtub3cgdGhlIGxpdHRsZSBnaXJscyBsb3ZlIHRv IHN0aW5nIG1lIG9uIHRoZSBzcG90LiBUaGUgb3duZXIgc3Rvb2RKAG9mZiBhdCBh IGRpc3RhbmNlIHdoaWxlIEkgbG9va2VkIGF0IHRoZSBoaXZlIGFuZCBkZXRlcm1p bmVkIHdoYXQgZXF1aXBtZW50SQBJIHdvdWxkIG5lZWQgdG8gcmVtb3ZlIHRoZSBi ZWVzLiBUbyBtYWtlIGEgbG9uZyBzdG9yeSBzaG9ydCBJdCB3YXMgYSBtZXNzAEgA b2YgYSBqb2IgdG8gZG8gYnV0IEkgZ290IGl0IGRvbmUuIEFzIGFscmVhZHkgbWVu dGlvbmVkIHRoZSBoaXZlIHdhcyBpbiBhSQBzaGFtYmxlcyBiZWNhdXNlIG9mIHRo ZSBmYWxsIGFuZCBzdWJzZXF1ZW50IGFicnVwdCBzdG9wLiBIb25leSB3YXMgb296 aW5nAEoAYWxsIG92ZXIgdGhlIHBsYWNlIGFuZCB0aGUgYmVlcyB3ZXJlIGNvbmNl cm5lZCBhYm91dCBhbnl0aGluZyBhbmQgYW55Ym9keSBJAGNvbWluZyBuZWFyIHRo ZSB0cmVlIGFuZCB0aGVpciBwcmVjaW91cyBzdG9yZXMuIEkgd2FzIGx1Y2t5IGlu IHRoYXQgSSB3YXMASQBhYmxlIHRvIGZpbmQgdGhlIFF1ZWVuIGFuZCB0byBteSBz dXJwcmlzZSBzaGUgd2FzIG5vdCBpbmp1cmVkLiBJIGdvdCBzb21lAEkAYnJvb2Qg Y29tYnMsIGVtcHR5IGNvbWJzLCBzb21lIGhvbmV5IGEgcG9sbGVuIGNvbWJzIGFu ZCBwbGFjZWQgdGhlIHF1ZWVuIABJAGludG8gdGhlIGJveCBhbmQgdGhlIGJlZXMg c3RhcnRlZCB0byBnbyBpbi4gVGhyZWUgZGF5cyBsYXRlciBhbGwgdGhlIGJlZXMA SABpbiB0aGUgYm94IGF0IG5pZ2h0IGFuZCBkdXJpbmcgdGhlIGRheSB0aGV5IG91 dCBjbGVhbmluZyB1cCB0aGUgaG9uZXkuIElKAG1vdmVkIHRoZSBoaXZlIHRvIG9u ZSBvZiBteSB5YXJkcyBhbmQgaXQgaXMgZG9pbmcgZmluZSB0aHJlZSB5ZWFycyBs YXRlci4gSwAgICAgIElmIEkgaGFkIGEgY2hvaWNlIEkgd291bGQgbm90IHByb2Nl ZWQgdGhpcyB3YXkuIFlvdXIgY2hhbmNlcyBvZiBzYXZpbmcASwB0aGUgcXVlZW4g YXJlIHNsaW0uIElmIHlvdSBkbywgaGF2ZSBhIHF1ZWVuIGhhbmR5IGp1c3QgaW4g Y2FzZSBzaGUgZG9lcyBub3QASQBtYWtlIHRoZSBmYWxsIGFuZCBzdWRkZW4gc3Rv cC4gIEkgd291bGQgcmF0aGVyIHdvcmsgdGhlIHRyZWUgZG93biB0byB0aGUgAEkA cG9pbnQgd2hlcmUgdGhlIHRvcCBvZiB0aGUgbmVzdCBjYW4gYmVlIHNlZW4uIFNj cmVlbiBpdCBvZmYgYW5kIHRoZW4gY3V0IABKAGJlbG93IHRoZSBuZXN0IHRha2lu ZyB0aGUgd2hvbGUgc3R1bXAgaG9tZS4gIFRoaXMgY2FuIGJlIHJhdGhlciBkaWZm aWN1bHQgTQBpZiB0aGUgdHJlZSBpcyBsYXJnZSBhbmQgeW91IGRvbid0IGhhdmUg ZW5vdWdoIGhlbHAuIEhlbHAgPSBvdGhlciBhZHZlbnR1cm91cwBJAGJlZSBrZWVw ZXJzIHdpdGggYmlnIG11c2NsZXMgb3Igc29tZSB0eXBlIG9mIGxpZnQgdG8gaG9p c3QgdGhlIHN0dW1wIG9udG8AEQBhIHdhaXRpbmcgcGlja3VwLgBJACAgICAgIFdv dWxkIEkgZG8gaXQgYWdhaW4uIFByb2JhYmx5LCBiZWNhdXNlIEkgdGhpbmsgbXkg bW90aGVyIGRyb3BwZWQgbWUASgB3aGVuIEkgd2FzIGEgaW5mYW50LiBJdCB3YXMg YSBsb3Qgb2YgZnVuIGFuZCB0aGUgZ3V5IHdhcyBzdXJlIHRoYW5rZnVsIHRoZR4A YmVlcyB3ZXJlIG91dCBvZiBoaXMgaGFpciA6LSkuAAAMAFJvbiBIYXJyaWdlcg8A MTAwIFJob2FkZXMgU3QuABsAQ2FtYnJpZGdlIFNwcmluZ3MgUGEuIDE2NDAzAA== ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:43:55 +1000 Reply-To: aweinert@tpgi.com.au Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Andrew & Judy Weinert Subject: introduction of pierco plastic frame and foundation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT We have just received our first box of pierco plastic frames and foundation. This is the first fully plastic frame etc that I have seen here in Australia. I am in Far North Queensland (17 degrees south of the equator) What are the best methods of getting the bees to draw the foundation, the old timers here tend to shy away from this type of frame but I thought I'd give it a go. I'd appreciate peoples thoughts and experiences on this foundation. Regards Andrew ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 13:41:24 +0200 Reply-To: 4a@eureka.it Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: 4a <4a@eureka.it> Organization: Associazione Amici delle Api e dell' Ambiente Subject: www.eureka.it/4a/english.htm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all I have joined this m-list from a week and I would lika very much if you would visit my page: http://www.eureka.it/4a/english.htm I' m preparing a meeting on line on our chat what do you think about? Reply me to mailto:4a@eureka.it ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:19:35 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Frederick L. Hollen" Subject: Re: Bee Tree In-Reply-To: <970416212701_-1368989922@emout18.mail.aol.com>; from "Thomas W. Hoyt" at Apr 16, 97 9:29 pm According to Thomas W. Hoyt: > > I've tried putting bees and comb into frames - - and it didn't work very > well. The comb simply never got 'attached' to the frames. The only > difference was my bees had moved into a seldom used shed and built from the > rafters. We had combs that exteded downward for THREE FEET!! > > I would suggest, after you have the hive isolated that you stand that section > on the ground. Place a piece of plywood with a large hole in the center on > top of that section - and a regular hive body on top of the log/plywood. The > bees will 'move up' into the hive body, eventually vacating the log. At this > point the log can be disposed of. Keep building on top of the body. > > My $.02 worth. > I am currently using just this procedure on a section of log I got about a month and a half ago. It was a short enough section that I was able to load it and bring it home. There is now a lovely pattern of capped brood in the hive body and I'm waiting a little longer for any brood still in the log to emerge and move up. Seems to be working. Regards, Fred ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:17:47 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Marc Sevigny Subject: First inspection on newly installed bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I installed a 4 pound package last Thursday. Since then, the weather has been quite cold (downright cold at night, with temps in the mid 20sF mostly). A couple of days the temps warmed to the 50s to near 60F and there was lots of activity around the hive. I waited the requisite 5 days before inspecting the hive to verify the queen was freed from her cage. When I opened the hive, the space in between the two frames containing the queen cage was having comb drawn in the gap. Not much, but some. The queen was still in the cage, and only about 1/2 the candy was eaten away. So, following the advice of one of my books (borrowed from the library) I poked a hols in the cany which exposed the queen though the channel in the candy, then I placed the queen back between two frames. I chose to put her between 2 different frames to prevent more comb-drawing in the gap between the frames where she was previously, then pushed the frames closer together. My questions are: 1. Is this normal that she would still be captive after 6 days in the hive? Or might this be the result of the cold temperatures keeping the bees inactive and not working hard to free the queen? 2. Last night, I was poking around on the net, and saw an article about installing that suggested that workers on the queen cage who hang on tightly have most likely not yet accepted the queen. I got nervous, because when I examined the queen cage, it was densely covered with bees. I tried moving them away so I could inspect the queen and verify that she was alive and well. They didn't move away much, and were persistent to keep at her. Does this indeed suggest that they will attack her if she is released? 3. At what point should I inspect again? I am worried that if she doesn't get out soon, the egg-laying won't commence soon enough to establish a strong hive. It has already been 7 days, and she's still caged. Should I have simply released her? If so, when should I open the hive again? I just bothered them yesterday. But the temps are cold again, and will have cold rain (in teh 40s) for the next 3 days. Should I wait? Thanks for your help. Marc ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:19:41 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Marc Sevigny Subject: bee bible (book recommendation wanted) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Is there a definitive bee book that every beginner should have? The books that I got from the library are fine, but it is not easy to get answers to questions that I have. For example, I see references to light and dark comb, yet none of the three books that I have mentions the cause or purpose of the different color combs... Opinions on the best reference books are welcomed. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 08:37:20 -0500 Reply-To: "Marla S. Spivak" Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Marla S. Spivak" Subject: Re: AHB in Costa Rica Lauren, Drag about your hard drive. Now you have my e-mail address. If you need more info, let me know. Marla Marla Spivak Dept Entomology 219 Hodson Hall University of Minnesota St. Paul, MN 55108 (612) 624-4798 ph (612) 625-5299 FAX spiva001@maroon.tc.umn.edu ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 06:38:45 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: adony melathopoulos Subject: Re: bee bible (book recommendation wanted) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:19 AM 4/17/97 -0400, you wrote: >Is there a definitive bee book that every beginner should have? The books >that I got from the library are fine, but it is not easy to get answers to >questions that I have. The Hive and The Honey Bee - If I could have one book that covers most topics, right to the sophisticated stuff, I would choose this book. >For example, I see references to light and dark comb, yet none of the three >books that I have mentions the cause or purpose of the different color >combs... Comb gets dark because of the byproducts of larval development (old cocoons and fecal defications) accumulate in the cell after a number of rounds of brood rearing. Incidentally, wax moths do not gain their nutritian from the wax but rather by eating these byproducts of development that remain in the cell. Cheers, Adony *********************************** ** Adony P. Melathopoulos ********* *** Center for Pest Management **** **** Simon Fraser University ****** ***** Burnaby, British Columbia *** ****** Canada, V5A-1S6 ************ *********************************** Tel : (604) 291-4163 Fax : (604) 291-3496 e-mail : melathop@sfu.ca "The pursuit of agriculture promotes the strength of the mind as well as the body" - Rev. John L. Blake, 1853 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 16:59:38 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Adony Melathopoulos Subject: Re : Neem Oil In-Reply-To: <199704161948.TAA25990@beaufort.sfu.ca> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Mike : > And what about NEEM oil? A friend of mine asked if anyone has tried it. Are > there any known problems with its use in the hive from an experimental > standpoint? Yes, it's not an approved substance in the US, but are there any > known detrimental effects? Providing that there is a possibility of safety, > is there a source for purchasing small quantities? I am one of the researchers who is working on the effects of neem oil on honey bees, mites, and honey bee diseases. I do not think anyone has a good idea of how neem oil (or refined neem oil extracts) work against mites or how safe it is to use around bees. The published studies I have seen to date suggest some preliminary miticidal and antibiotic properties, but other studies suggest that honey bee larva are somewhat suceptible to poisioning. I know of no study that looks at queen fertility after being treated with neem (some, but not all, adult insects become less fertile or even sterile when treated with neem). Without some research to guide the way (we're working on it), a neem treatment you might dream up may have some very nasty side-effects against your bees. I would not recomend playing with the stuff just yet. Cheers Adony *********************************** ** Adony P. Melathopoulos ********* *** Center for Pest Management **** **** Simon Fraser University ****** ***** Burnaby, British Columbia *** ****** Canada, V5A-1S6 ************ *********************************** Tel : (604) 291-4163 Fax : (604) 291-3496 e-mail : melathop@sfu.ca "The pursuit of agriculture promotes the strength of the mind as well as the body" - Rev. John L. Blake, 1853 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:07:35 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Subject: Re: RE> Disinfecting nosema hive Comments: To: "Theodore V. Fischer" In-Reply-To: <3354CEBB.6971@umich.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII You may wish to consult "Honey Bee Pests, Predators and Diseases", 2nd edition by Morse and Nowogrodski, pgs 57,354; where the use of acetic acid for fumigation of equipment is discussed. Note this edition states that "Acetic acid is not approved for this use in the US". You should check current regulations. The use of acetic acid is also discussed by Bailey in his Honey Bee Pathology 2nd edition On Wed, 16 Apr 1997, Theodore V. Fischer wrote: > Dan Goodwin wrote: > > I have a hive which died from Nosema. The inside of the hive is > > quites dirty. Is there a procedure for cleaning/disinfecting so I can > > re-use the equipment safely. > > I basically just scrape the encrusted dirt from the top, bottom and side bars of the > frames, scrape the inside of the brood chambers, and give the frames back to strong hives. > They will clean up the combs very nicely. To control further nosema, be sure to feed > Fumadil in your sugar syrup. > > Ted Fischer > Dexter, Michigan USA > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:06:49 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Firzst inspection on newly installed bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Marc, Quoting from Charlie Papazian, "Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!" Your description tells me your bees are doing fine! Comb between the frames where the queen cage sits is normal. Such comb is called burr comb and you will get to know burr comb well. Relax, don't worry. You did not say, but I trust you removed the burr comb before you moved the queen cage between different frames? If you didn't, you should - it will only get worse if you don't. Six days without releasing the queen is not beyond what can be expected. Poking the hole in the candy was the right thing to do, so you can relax and not worry. Your queen is probably out and laying by now, but with the current weather forecast you probably won't get to check until next Tuesday, at which time I'll bet 10 homebrews to your one that a) the queen will be released and laying, b) there will be more burr comb hanging between the frames where the queen cage (now empty) is located and c) there will be eggs in the burr comb. It hurts, but don't be tempted to leave the burr comb with eggs - it will only get worse and be in the way later. At that time remove the queen cage and burr comb, slide the remaining frames together tightly be happy and exhilarated about your new hobby and relax, don't worry. You also need not be concerned about the bees hanging onto the queen cage. That's what they do. In fact, some will continue to hang on the cage even after the queen is gone. Queen pheremones are powerful stuff! Relax, don't worry. Good books? I second the vote for _The_Hive_and_the_Honey_Bee_. It contains more information than you are most likely to ever need. And, if you follow the advice about joining the Worcester County Beekeepers Association, they may have a coupon that will get you a few bucks off the purchase price, and they're also a nice bunch of people to relax with. You may also want to check out _The_ABCs_and_XYZs_... Both books are available for loan to members from the WCBA, which has one of the most extensive libraries of beekeeping books that I have ever seen. Sounds like you're doin' fine. If spring ever arrives in ernest you'll have plenty of fun times ahead! Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 10:11:58 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: How many BEE-Lers does it take to change a light bulb? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Q: How many BEE-L subscribers does it take to change a light bulb? A: 1,331: 1 to change the light bulb and to post to the mail list that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently. 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs. 27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs. 53 to flame the spell checkers 156 to write to the list administrator complaining about the light bulb discussion and its inappropriateness to this mail list. 41 to correct spelling in the spelling/grammar flames. 109 to post that this list is not about light bulbs and to please take this email exchange to alt.lite.bulb 203 to demand that cross posting to alt.grammar, alt.spelling and alt.punctuation about changing light bulbs be stopped. 111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts **are** relevant to this mail list. 306 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique, and what brands are faulty. 27 to post URLs where one can see examples of different light bulbs 14 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly, and to post corrected URLs. 3 to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this list which makes light bulbs relevant to this list. 33 to concatenate all posts to date, then quote them including all headers and footers, and then add "Me Too." 12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing because they cannot handle the light bulb controversey. 19 to quote the "Me Too's" to say, "Me Three." 4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ. 1 to propose new alt.change.lite.bulb newsgroup. 47 to say this is just what alt.physic.cold_fusion was meant for, leave it here. 143 votes for alt.lite.bulb. Aaron Morris - thinking it ain't bees, but it sure is appropo! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:05:59 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: pictures tells more MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit here is a great picture of beekeeping, specialy on protected clothing. http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/slowakia.html and styrofoam and the woodpacker http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/specht.html pictures tells more than tousand words -- -------------------------------------------------------- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 homepage webside: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index2.html webside van het AmbrosiusGilde: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/ambro_index.html webside for NECTAR: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/nectar_index.html with some pages in english on solitary bees -------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 17:29:44 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: RE> Disinfecting nosema hive Comments: To: tvf@umich.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit when you use a dish washer ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 11:38:55 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Mares Subject: comb honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain In one of Richard Taylor's books, he recommends crowding bees down into one brood chamber just before the honey flow, in order to get the maximum comb honey production. I've always kept two brood chambers for fear of swarming. Have any of you used his method? Any cautions? Thanks, bill mares c.v.u. high school, Hinesburg, Vt. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:52:04 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: comb honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Crowding down into a single brood chamber all but guarantees swarming. There is more to it than crowding them down. Also required is a break in the brood cycle and a new/young queen also helps. Taylor's wrote about shook swarming, but the method is not attributed to him. Another book, argueably a better book is Killion's _Honey_in_the_Comb_ by Eugene Killion, published by Dadant Press. I consider this book "must reading" for anyone thinking about producing comb honey and "suggested reading" for anyone keeping bees. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 12:39:45 -0500 Reply-To: barry@birkey.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: Birkey.com Subject: Re: How many BEE-Lers does it take to change a light bulb? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Aaron Morris wrote: > > Q: How many BEE-L subscribers does it take to change a light bulb? > > A: 1,331: 1,332...... 1 to post the question and describe the numerical breakdown. -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:29:17 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" Organization: Luichart Woollens Subject: Re: comb honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill Mares wrote: > > In one of Richard Taylor's books, he recommends crowding bees down > into one brood chamber just before the honey flow, in order to get > the maximum comb honey production. > I've always kept two brood chambers for fear of swarming. > Have any of you used his method? Any cautions? Thanks, > bill mares c.v.u. high school, > Hinesburg, Vt. I do this every year in the first week in August to maximise the Heather crop. I usually arrange the combs so that the outside combs are full of stores and the rest full of brood (as young as possible) with the oldest brood in the centre. The Heather flow is late in the season and swarming is usually finished but you can sometimes get late swarms going off. I try to ensure that all the hives are headed by a young queen who will hopefully continue to lay into October and is less likely to swarm. I would not advise it earlier in the year. Harry Scotland ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:31:39 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: D Warr Subject: Re: DIY Foundation Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Is there a good method of making a foundation mould (mold)? Is plaster any good or could I use glassfibre resin? Any Ideas??? <><><><><><><><><> David Warr (Member of the ) (\ (\ (\ Ormskirk & Croston District Branch {|||8< {||||8< {|||||8< of the (/ (/ (/ Lancashire & North-West Beekeepers' Association| <><><><><><><><><> ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 16:40:59 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: How many BEE-Lers does it take to change a light bulb? You forgot 117 to remind that changing is not approved for use in the US ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:24:50 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Malcolm Tom Sanford, Extension Apiculturist" Subject: Re: Lokue Americana Comments: To: euroresearch Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Any Italians on this list that can point this person the right direction? Tom Sanford At 12:32 PM 4/14/97 -0700, you wrote: > Do you have any information related to an illness named LOKUE >AMERICANA? Some people said us that it is a fungus or virus causing this >kind of desease, carried by bees and attacking cattle. The actual >treatment is performed with an antibiotic (oxitetracycline), but may be >that you have some more specific information. >Thanks for your help. >Diego Furlan >Euroresearch s.r.l. >via Chiaravalle 11 >20122 Milano - Italy >tel +39-2-58304213 >fax +39-2-58304903 >E-Mail euroresearch@iol.it > > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 23:24:52 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Malcolm Tom Sanford, Extension Apiculturist" Subject: Re: to Dr. Tom Sanford Comments: To: black@nilc.org.ge Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Any help here? Tom Sanford At 03:37 PM 10/28/96 +0400, you wrote: >black@nilc.org.ge wrote: >> >> Dear Mr. Tom Sanford >> We are engaged in beekeeping already 10 years. We heve about 800 >> families of Georgian grey bee (Apis millifera caucasica) >> By means of selection we produce: >> 1) High quality and coldresistant queen bees during the season >> and bee-package. >> 2) Bee-poison (apitoxin). >> 3) Beeswax. >> 4) Pollen. >> 5) Propilis. >> 6) Milk of bee. >> 7) Acacia and chestnut honey, white honey. >> Could You advise us any persons or companies, which are >> interested in these products. >> In the case of interest, please, contact us. >> by fax: 995 32 341534 >> postal address: ARKADI EPREMIDZE , FLAT 16, 97 TSERETELI AVE. >> 380019, TBILISI, GEORGIA. > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:53:46 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Hinz Subject: Bumblebee Economics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A title by the name of Bumblebee Economics was suggested to me the other = day. Can anyone recommend it? What other titles with these themes are in = the public press? DaveE.Hinz Seattle, WA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:58:39 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: 'Gavia immer' Deborah Wisti-Peterson Subject: Re: Bumblebee Economics bumblebee economics, by bernd heinrich, is a great book. i am reading it right now, as a matter of fact, and i don't want to put this book down. not only are bumblebees cuter'n a bug's ear, but they are really fascinating creatures, too. Deborah Wisti-Peterson email:nyneve@u.washington.edu Department of Zoology, University of Washington, Seattle, Wash, USA Visit me on the web: http://weber.u.washington.edu/~nyneve/ =-=-=-Graduate School: it's not just a job, it's an indenture!=-=-= ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 01:20:00 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: pollen from Sweden?? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit he folkes there in Sweden Can you deliver ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:06:24 -0400 Reply-To: Hosanna@ictransnet.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Timothy A. Thompson" Organization: Hosanna Apiaries Subject: Re: bee bible (book recommendation wanted) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Marc Sevigny wrote: > > Is there a definitive bee book that every beginner should have? The books > that I got from the library are fine, but it is not easy to get answers to > questions that I have. > > For example, I see references to light and dark comb, yet none of the three > books that I have mentions the cause or purpose of the different color > combs... > > Opinions on the best reference books are welcomed. Dadant & Sons has a book called "The Hive and the Honeybee", very good reference source. Also A.I. Root has one called the "ABC & XYZ of Beekeeping", I think that is its name, an encyclopedia styled book. The difference between light and dark comb: Newly drawn comb is light colored,white to light yellow.Once brood has been raised in comb for a while it becomes dark brown. Generally as a comb ages it becomes darker in color. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:44:16 -0500 Reply-To: barry@birkey.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: Birkey.com Subject: Re: DIY Foundation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit D Warr wrote: > > Is there a good method of making a foundation mould (mold)? > Is plaster any good or could I use glassfibre resin? > Any Ideas??? > <><><><><><><><><> > David Warr (Member of the ) > (\ (\ (\ Ormskirk & Croston District Branch > {|||8< {||||8< {|||||8< of the > (/ (/ (/ Lancashire & North-West Beekeepers' > Association| > <><><><><><><><><> David - John Vivian wrote a book called "Keeping Bees" and he describes how to make a real simple and inexpensive foundation press. He uses plaster, fine grained hard cold-curing matrix like water putty and mortar mix. The publisher is Williamson Publishing in Charlotte, Vermont 05445 and the ISBN # is 0-413589-19-5 and sells for $10.95. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:46:52 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Bumblebee Economics On Thu, 17 Apr 1997 15:53:46 -0700 David Hinz writes: >A title by the name of Bumblebee Economics was suggested to me the >other day. Can anyone recommend it? What other titles with these themes are >in the public press? Dave: Last year a fellow beekeeper was interested in Bumblebees and the possibility of renting them for pollination. He did try one hive/colony (whatever you call a bumblebee nest), but found that after it was at the rental site for a bit, the bumbles abandoned ship. Anyway, in the course of events he asked me to check with BEE-l about Bumble Books. I found out that IBRA in England carried a new book on the subject, but I cannot remember the name or any other details. IBRA has a web site, which you can locate at some web sites, or simply use a search engine to find them. Once there, send them an e-mail. My friend said it was a good book. I would call him but he is in bed by this hour. Al, Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program Check Out " The Amazing BeeCam " At: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 22:05:45 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John M Thorp Subject: Foundation Comments: To: barry@birkey.com Hi Barry,At one time I had 350 " Langstroth" style hives and all that was used was your beloved "Duragilt". It proved itself to be cost and labour efficient time wise. Now the way to go can be found on Jim Satterfield's page on the "KTBH",no manmade foundation necessary. BTW,how did you get your name and e/mail add. to match? Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 19:48:06 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom & Carol Elliott Organization: Home Subject: Re: First inspection on newly installed bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Marc Sevigny wrote: > > I installed a 4 pound package last Thursday. Since then, the weather has been > quite cold (downright cold at night, with temps in the mid 20sF mostly). I have installed many packages at such temperatures. My solution to the queen release problem is to simply release the queen into the newly released cluster. Of course, here in Alaska it is always at least two days from the time the bees were shaken. I have never had any problems with queen acceptance. I would not try that when requeening, but a package is so disoriented they seem to be willing to accept anything. The advantages of this method: almost immediate laying, a week after installation I have brood almost ready to cap, plus no burr comb between frames. When I do requeen, by the way, I use flat cages that fit between the frames without leaving extra space. > I waited the requisite 5 days before inspecting the hive to verify the queen > was freed from her cage. > > 1. Is this normal that she would still be captive after 6 days in the hive? > Or might this be the result of the cold temperatures keeping the bees inactive > and not working hard to free the queen? Can't answer this one. > 2. Last night, I was poking around on the net, and saw an article about > installing that suggested that workers on the queen cage who hang on tightly > have most likely not yet accepted the queen. I got nervous, because when I > examined the queen cage, it was densely covered with bees. I tried moving > them away so I could inspect the queen and verify that she was alive and well. > They didn't move away much, and were persistent to keep at her. Does this > indeed suggest that they will attack her if she is released? Workers are always attracted to the queen. I have never seen, in 16 years of beekeeping, package bees ball a queen after a couple of days of aquaintence. I suspect they just want her out. > 3. At what point should I inspect again? I am worried that if she doesn't > get out soon, the egg-laying won't commence soon enough to establish a strong > hive. It has already been 7 days, and she's still caged. Should I have > simply released her? If so, when should I open the hive again? I just > bothered them yesterday. But the temps are cold again, and will have cold > rain (in teh 40s) for the next 3 days. Should I wait? I would release her tomorrow. Cool weather won't matter for the length of time it takes to pull out the queen cage and pop the cork. Be sure to keep the hole covered with your finger until you have the cage right at the top of the frames. I have had queens so eager to get out they took off flying before I could get the cage in position (the exception, but it does happen). - - - - - - - - - - - - "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 19:51:49 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom & Carol Elliott Organization: Home Subject: Re: Bee Tree MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thomas W. Hoyt wrote: > > I've tried putting bees and comb into frames - - and it didn't work very > well. The comb simply never got 'attached' to the frames. The only > difference was my bees had moved into a seldom used shed and built from the > rafters. We had combs that exteded downward for THREE FEET!! I have put feral combs into frames several times with no problems. It is important to have the combs touching the top bar, and the sides if possible. "Cut to fit" works very well for me. Of course, these are not valuable frames and need to be replaces when the brood nest moves out. - - - - - - - - - - - - "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:41:20 -0700 Reply-To: bjhensel@metro.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: BRIAN HENSEL Organization: Company Subject: WARNING ! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi everyone. The following story is a report on the death of a man in Arizona that died from an apparent attack from African Bee's. My friend knew the man who died, and sent me the following report. He wanted to know what should this man have done to ward off the attack, and possibly save his life. I told him that I did not have any experience in Africanized bee's, but I said that I would post the report on Bee-L, because I know that there are beekeepers on this list who have had extensive experience with Africanized bee's, and would have good advice. At times I hate the "killer bee" hysteria, especially when some people think that all bee's are very dangerous, and they don't want our hives within miles of their homes, and how many beekeepers have suffered losses over this hysteria? I for one can think of several recent posts to this list from beekeepers who have suffered great losses. I wish that with this news report they would have had a rebuttal from a local beekeeper to tell people how to handle such emergencies, and to say that people should not be alarmed. I realize that this is a serious problem and scares people to death, but I tell people that a person can die from just one sting from any bee or wasp if they are allergic. My very best friend, and teacher I had when I was in Jr. High died from a single sting from a yellow jacket, and he knew that he was allergic, and carried his sting antidote around with him except couldn't get to it in time, just one day when he was out pruning in his apple orchard, and he died. So I know how serious bee's can be. I think that there needs to be more public education through reports in news papers and magazines in defense of the honey bee. Maybe I just live in a state ( California ) that doesn't have any public announcements as yet because there haven't been many well publicized killer bee attacks as yet. If you could ad some answers to my questions please email me. THANK YOU VERY MUCH BRIAN HENSEL bjhensel@metro.net BEE ATTACK KILLS MAN; 3RD ARIZ. DEATH Source: MEMPHIS COMMERCIAL APPEAL TUCSON, ARIZ. - MEMPHIS COMMERCIAL APPEAL from Dialog via Individual Inc. : Gary Elam was lying on his couch when someone pounded on the front door of his mobile home and began screaming for help. Sprawled on the front steps was a man whose head ''was just literally, completely covered with bees,'' said Elam, who lives with his wife, Mary, and his daughter, Mary Jo, 30. ''They were all over him, but mainly his head. It was just an ugly sight,'' Elam, 56, said of the fatal bee attack he witnessed Tuesday. Elam dialed 911, then the family threw buckets of water onto the victim through the screen door that shielded them from the swarming bees. Then they went outside and hosed him down. The victim was Frank Garcia, 72, according to investigator Ernie Appel of the Pinal County Medical Examiner's Office. Garcia was pronounced dead 55 minutes after Elam's call, Appel said. Preliminary autopsy results Wednesday indicate Garcia died of anaphylactic shock due to multiple bee stings, he said. Garcia is apparently Arizona's third human fatality due to an Africanized ''killer'' honeybee attack. Though the bees have not been analyzed by a qualified laboratory, the mass attack is ''clearly African (bee) behavior,'' said Eric Erickson, director of the Carl Hayden Bee Research Center in Tucson. When the ambulance arrived, Elam said he helped administer CPR while paramedics struggled to get breathing tubes down Garcia's swollen throat. ''This man was covered literally with hundreds - if not a few thousand - bees,'' said Chief Steve Kerber of Regional Fire and Rescue, part of the emergency crew that responded. ''He was just saturated so heavily, like a blanket of bees, which is really a horror-show-type scenario. ''Everybody's heard the horror stories, but nobody wants to believe them,'' Kerber said. ''This is proof that it can and will happen, that these bees will blanket you and sting you to death.'' [04-15-97 at 17:24 EDT, Copyright 1997, MEMPHIS COMMERCIAL APPEAL] Contact: MEMPHIS COMMERCIAL APPEAL ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 14:28:40 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Malcolm Tom Sanford, Extension Apiculturist" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Any help here? Tom Sanford 04/18/97 9:34 AM name=cathleen partridge city=long beach, california url= email=cpart@flash.com userlink=Web search under %22beekeeping%22 comments=I am a curator of educational programs at Rancho Los Alamitos Historic Ranch %26 Gardens. I am trying to find beekeepers who will participate in an upcoming Citrus Festival that I am doing. Can you help%3F My work phone is 562 431-3541. I will be in Virginia for 2 weeks and will be back to Long Beach April 28 Saturday. Please call me or write me should you have any local resources for me. Many thanks. Cathy Partridge ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 20:58:56 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: comb honey In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > In one of Richard Taylor's books, he recommends crowding bees down > into one brood chamber just before the honey flow, in order to get the > maximum comb honey production. I've always kept two brood chambers for > fear of swarming. Have any of you used his method? Any cautions? > > Thanks, bill mares c.v.u. high school, Hinesburg, Vt. As a large commercial producer of Ross Rounds, I always used that (former) method. Yes, you will get swarms some of the time, but you will always get lots of comb honey. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:00:02 -0700 Reply-To: dpbees@slkc.uswest.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Derk Phelps Organization: Phelps Honey Farm Subject: Corn Syrup - Define MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, Could anyone please give me the final say on corn syrup? How is it classified and what type is best for bee feed? Diluting concentrate, using straight? Whats best? We have been using granulated sugar syrup and now have access to some corn syrup. We run about 350 colonies. Please e-mail me directly. Thanks for any help. Derk Phelps Phelps Honey Farm ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 10:14:55 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Trevor Weatherhead Subject: Re: Drawing Pierco foundation Glad to see you have found your way around Bee-L Andrew. Last year, Malcolm Haines, the Australasian agent for Pierco, gave me half a dozen frames to try. I put them in on a tea tree flow down the coast. The bees drew them OK. A few spots where they built brace comb but I scrapped these out with the hive tool and the bees drew it properly the second time. I found it had to be a reasonable honey flow to get it drawn otherwise it just sat there. This is of course unwaxed foundation. We don't recommend getting waxed foundation from overseas as it can bring in wax contaminated with fluvalinate. We in Australia are proud of our clean uncontaminated wax and we are fortunate in not having mites which require treatment. For the unwaxed foundation, I have been told by beekeepers in Australia using the permadent foundation that they paint the foundation with a thick sugar syrup solution before putting it in the hive. They claim the bees take it well. Andrew, try drawing some on the glycine, if the frost doesn't get to it first. If not, then put it in when the poplar gum flowers. Bees tend to do well on this. If you want it drawn sooner, take it down to Cairns for the tea tree. Good luck. Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 17:38:20 +0200 Reply-To: 4a@eureka.it Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: 4a <4a@eureka.it> Organization: Associazione Amici delle Api e dell' Ambiente Subject: ATTENTION Meeting on line MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Friend, What do you think about a meeting on line on our irc-chat channell to discuss of beekeeping problems?? On Thursday 24 April 1997 at 22:00 G.M.T. to: http://www.eureka.it/4a/english.htm you will find our chat page P.S.: enable java on your browser. See you on Thursday Beekeeping and Bees Friends Association ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 15:37:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: WARNING ! BH>From: BRIAN HENSEL >Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 14:41:20 -0700 >Subject: WARNING ! BH> BEE ATTACK KILLS MAN; 3RD ARIZ. > DEATH BH> Source: MEMPHIS COMMERCIAL APPEAL Always sad to hear of any bee attack and I am sorry to read someone died! ___ ____ ___ _ _ ___ ___ _ _ / _ \| _ \_ _| \ | |_ _/ _ \| \ | | from the OLd Drone! | | | | |_) | || \| || | | | | \| | | |_| | __/| || |\ || | |_| | |\ | \___/|_| |___|_| \_|___\___/|_| \_| If someone posted a article on a new beekeeper cure for a bee problem we all would all be treated to a warning about "more research" needs or how that may not be legal.. Interesting how a research scientist can make observations about African bees before the research is in. Here is a guy that would have made a good expert witness at the OJ trial... BH> Garcia is apparently Arizona's third human fatality due to an >Africanized ''killer'' honeybee attack. Though the bees have not >been analyzed by a qualified laboratory, the mass attack is ''clearly >African (bee) behavior,'' said Eric Erickson, director of the Carl >Hayden Bee Research Center in Tucson. Someone should tell Dr. Erickson that Afrikaner bees are not the only brand of honeybees that will do a mass attack which is common behaviour in most any bee yard under the right conditions, and especially so in the desert southwest. What is missing from this story is what caused the bees to attack, not that it makes a difference if you are dead. But I sure would not make a judgement without more information, but then I am not a rocket scientist or a bee scientist for that matter, but so far the Mr. Erickson's, BS is very light on science and heavy on hot air, but then maybe he has more bee experience then I think I do... In light of this article I would suggest we all take a 2nd look at any papers he has produced in the PP atmosphere of the USDA, (publish or parish), as I don't believe any so called BS USDA Director should be shooting from the lip or hip to the public before the facts are in... ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ... Where the wild bee never flew, ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 08:34:17 -0800 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom & Carol Elliott Organization: Home Subject: Re: WARNING ! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Andy Nachbaur wrote: >. . .as I don't believe any so called BS USDA Director should be > shooting from the lip or hip to the public before the facts are in... > Andy, I have to agree with this sentiment, but the news papers often do not really give these guys much choice. For them to refuse to comment leaves the door wide open for all sorts of hogwash. I have said before, and still hold to it, we need research and breeding done with the AHB to take advantage of the positive potential they hold. We all know the negative potential. Plus, beekeepers all over the lower 48, should be using the "danger" of the killer bees as a lever to get community encouragement for keeping "domesticated" bees. I read on this list, frequently, that we need to be less visible, etc. On the contrary, beekeepers should become more visible. Using their experience with honeybees to act as a first line of defense. Cities should revoke ordinances limiting or outlawing beekeeping, and replace them with rules to encourage responsible beekeeping. We have hade the AHB genes in the US since the late 40's (I think I have the time frame right, but someone out there can correct that). If we simply eliminate the overly aggresive hives leaving any more docile colonies to reproduce we will come out ahead. Stop thinking "eliminate AHB" and think more along the lines of "eliminate all overly aggresive colonies. Until someone begins breeding AHB for mild temperament, that is the only hope. - - - - - - - - - - - - "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Eagle River, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 10:34:00 PDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ivan McGill Subject: permadent in extractor Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Just a question for the list for people who have used permadent foundation in the extractor. Wired or unwired. Thanks Ivan In Prince George, B.C. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 13:55:30 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Re: WARNING ! BRIAN HENSEL wrote: > The following story is a report on the death of a man in Arizona >that died from an apparent attack from African Bee's. My friend knew the >man who died, and sent me the following report. He wanted to know what >should this man have done to ward off the attack, and possibly save his >life. I told him that I did not have any experience in Africanized >bee's, but I said that I would post the report on Bee-L, because I know >that there are beekeepers on this list who have had extensive experience >with Africanized bee's, and would have good advice. I have traveled throughout central and south America and have never experienced a problem with Africanized bees. If you call our state department, they'll warn you not to eat raw fish (cholera) but they say nothing about bees. During my travels I have never heard this sort of hysteria. It probably happens regularly but not at a high enough level to cause a panic or newsworthy item. I'd venture more people died on that given day in car wrecks in the Tucson area than from bee stings. > At times I hate the "killer bee" hysteria, especially when some >people think that all bee's are very dangerous, and they don't want our >hives within miles of their homes, and how many beekeepers have suffered >losses over this hysteria? I for one can think of several recent posts >to this list from beekeepers who have suffered great losses. I think it's up to us to educate the public at fairs, farmer's markets and other outdoor events. The press is obviously out to headline these stories for its shock value. That scares the public and then we're labeled as crazy for having bees. The fact that we're willing to stay in the hobby/business indicates that it isn't dangerous. We need to drive that fact home. > I wish that with this news report they would have had a rebuttal >from a local beekeeper to tell people how to handle such emergencies, >and to say that people should not be alarmed. I realize that this is a >serious problem and scares people to death, but I tell people that a >person can die from just one sting from any bee or wasp if they are >allergic. This situation in Arizona where there are many seasonal residents and a huge influx of out-of-state visitors and people moving from other climates makes this situation worse. They have many buildings that sit unused for several months and then the seasonal resident returns and attempts to use the facilities as if they were not gone the last six months. This leads to problems with rattlesnakes and lizards that are poisonous. Everyone is used to those so we don't see them in the news. The out-of-towners also are not aware of the dangers of snakes, lizards and bees so they heighten the possibility of a tragedy. If people would treat these situations with a healthy respect and be careful when opening little used outbuildings and facilities, these deaths might be preventable. I know this was the case in the second "africanized bee" death, an older man went to his shed that he had not used for six months and got stung profusely because he could not run. If a younger, more agile person had carefully checked the shed and been careful the older man might have been spared. > TUCSON, ARIZ. - MEMPHIS COMMERCIAL APPEAL from Dialog > via Individual Inc. : Gary Elam was lying on his couch when someone > pounded on the front door of his mobile home and began screaming for help. > Sprawled on the front steps was a man whose head ''was just literally, > completely covered with bees,'' said Elam, who lives with his wife, > Mary, and his daughter, Mary Jo, 30. > ''They were all over him, but mainly his head. It was just an ugly > sight,'' Elam, 56, said of the fatal bee attack he witnessed Tuesday. > Elam dialed 911, then the family threw buckets of water onto the > victim through the screen door that shielded them from the swarming bees. > Then they went outside and hosed him down. The victim was Frank Garcia, 72, > according to investigator Ernie Appel of the Pinal County Medical > Examiner's Office. > Garcia was pronounced dead 55 minutes after Elam's call, Appel said. > Preliminary autopsy results Wednesday indicate Garcia died of > anaphylactic shock due to multiple bee stings, he said. > Garcia is apparently Arizona's third human fatality due to an > Africanized ''killer'' honeybee attack. Though the bees have not been analyzed by > a qualified laboratory, the mass attack is ''clearly African (bee) > behavior,'' said Eric Erickson, director of the Carl Hayden Bee Research Center in > Tucson. > When the ambulance arrived, Elam said he helped administer CPR while > paramedics struggled to get breathing tubes down Garcia's swollen > throat. ''This man was covered literally with hundreds - if not a few thousand- > bees,'' said Chief Steve Kerber of Regional Fire and Rescue, part of the > emergency crew that responded. ''He was just saturated so heavily, like a > blanket of bees, which is really a horror-show-type scenario. > ''Everybody's heard the horror stories, but nobody wants to believe them,'' > Kerber said. ''This is proof that it can and will happen, that these bees will > blanket you and sting you to death.'' Notice this report does not include the particulars of this attack. There's no background into what caused the mass stinging. If someone goes up to one of your hives and messes with it this same incident can occur. Would the news report that the victim stupidly started taking apart a bee hive without protective gear or procedures or would they label it an africanized bee attack. I'd bet they would go for the sensational rather than the educational story. This story should have included what the older man did to provoke such an attack to educate the public about the dangers of africanized bees instead of sensationalizing this story for sales. If they had done so they may have prevented future deaths. It's a shame that the press refuses to use their power to help people. Especially since they use educating and helping the public as justification every time they need a first amendment argument. I guess I'll get off my soapbox now. Sorry for the use of bandwidth but this issue really gets under my skin. Ted Wout Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 20:10:18 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: portugal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit we want to visit Portugal in juli, aug in our 26 year old VW hippy-bus (I hope he/she/it manages it) is ther any beescene. musea, open air exposition ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 14:53:13 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: WARNING ! Ted et al: Your reasoning is correct on this mass hysteria and the need to educate the public. The odds are more in favor of any one of us being asphyxiated in our sleep by our spouse/or 'significant other' than being attacked to the death by any bees! Al, Al Needham--Scituate,MA,USA--awneedham@juno.com Author Of "The HoneyBee"--An Educational Program Check Out " The Amazing BeeCam " At: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 20:59:11 +-200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F8rn_Johanesson?= Subject: Stupid error! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There i no software without bugs, but this I build in my Bidata software was a Stupid one! if you get the error List index out of bound and unknown database alias DATA then select tools/select language, and then select the language you prefer! close down Bidata and launch it again. this solves the stupid error I made! sorry Jorn Johanesson the stupid Dane! but happy beekeeper . ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 09:17:01 +1000 Reply-To: aweinert@tpgi.com.au Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Andrew & Judy Weinert Subject: (Fwd) (Fwd) (Fwd) bee bible (book recommendation wanted) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- From: Self To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: (Fwd) (Fwd) bee bible (book recommendation wanted) Reply-to: aweinert@tpgi.com.au Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 09:05:58 +1000 ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- From: Self To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: (Fwd) bee bible (book recommendation wanted) Reply-to: aweinert@tpgi.com.au Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 08:58:03 +1000 ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 09:19:41 -0400 From: Marc Sevigny Subject: bee bible (book recommendation wanted) Is there a definitive bee book that every beginner should have? The books that I got from the library are fine, but it is not easy to get answers to questions that I have. For example, I see references to light and dark comb, yet none of the three books that I have mentions the cause or purpose of the different color combs... Opinions on the best reference books are welcomed. The standardd American Texts are good, There is also an Australian book "The bee Book , beekeeping in the warmer areas of Australia" by Peter Warhurst and Roger Goebel ISBN 0 7242 59198. Published by the Department of Primary industries Queensland. Manager Publishing services DPI GPO Box 46 Brisbane Queensland Australia 4001 This is aimed at the hobbiest and professional and has a lot of practicl information from comb manaagement to useful knots for the inexperienced transporter of hives. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 16:17:49 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Re: permadent in extractor There's no need to wire permadent (don't know how you'd do that anyway). The plastic base of the foundation provides more than enough strength in my experience. Ted Wout Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 02:10:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Corn Syrup - Define DP>From: Derk Phelps >Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:00:02 -0700 >Subject: Corn Syrup - Define >Organization: Phelps Honey Farm DP>Could anyone please give me the final say on corn syrup? How is it >classified and what type is best for bee feed? Diluting concentrate, >using straight? Whats best? All the major sugar companies have technical departments and are for the most part well versed on the use of HFC syrups for bee feed. I would direct my questions to them. The choice is usually between feeding a blend or the real stuff. Some beekeeper use one type in the spring and a different in the fall. You can always cut HFC with H2O, but then the bees have to work that much more removing the moisture you added. In any case the bees will add or remove moisture according to their own plans. One trick that I do recommend is to add one 6.4 oz package of TM for every 50 gallons of syrup if you have anyway to incorporate it into the sugar. A paddle or pump could be used if one is not built into your storage tank. It is a very cheep way to knock out some nasty bee keeping problems such as EFB or AFB and you will also get more brood for each gallon of syrup you feed increasing the value of the bee feed many times over the cost of the TM. DP>We have been using granulated sugar syrup and now have access to some >corn syrup. **WARNING** Corn syrup is never good bee feed as it contains sugars and other things that bees can not digest and will bind them up into a knot if you know what I mean. But I assume you are talking about High Fruitose Corn Syrup, or HFC, or HFCS.. that is a different product from corn syrup and used by beekeepers coast to coast for many years without any problems as long as they do not fall for some cheep deal's offered by some that are off grade. In that case don't be surprised if your bees go down hill or even die. I am sure once you use HFC you will not go back to granulated sugar in any form. The big difference can bee seen in your bee hives as they will expand much faster, bee healthier, and use less sugar in total because with HFC they are not burned out inverting the sugar into a useable product. You should also find the cost lower at this time I am told that there is a glut of production in excess of the market. DP>We run about 350 colonies. I would look for a beekeeper in your area that is buying product by the tanker load and make arrangements with him. Some bee supply dealer's like DADANT'S in Fresno, Ca and other areas have tanks set up and will pump it into your own small tanks or 55 gal drums. Sugar delivery companies do make less then full load deliveries but charge the going rate on a full load. Some company's will split a load, much depends on the beekeepers relationship with the sugar and transportation company. Some beekeepers have their own tankers and pick the syrup up at the bulk sugar plants. For technical specification on sugars, uses, different types and blends you should contact your local sugar company, all have technical departments that are more then happy to help beekeepers, if not find one that does. ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ... What is not good for the swarm is not good for the be ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 20:21:13 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Moving Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT >From time to time the question of how to move a hive of bees comes up and a lot of the old saws get trotted out. However, moving bees is not something that you can make hard and fast rules about. Much depends on the circumstances, and if you are willing to observe, the bees will tell you how to proceed. I remember a friend -- to whom I lease 100 hives or so -- telling me about rescuing yards of bees from rising flood waters at mid-day. He recruited neighbours and they moved the hives full of bees in singles and doubles on trailers without veils or smoke as the water rose. Today I had a chance to test the truth of that tale. We got a call that the water was up to the entrances of some of our hives in a yard near here. I loaded my trusty Swinger, and headed out. When we got there, the three pallets were submerged in the shallow water. Bees were flying about since it was sunny, just after noon, and the temperature was suitable for shirtsleeves. I had noticed a bit of pollen being brought in at other yards we visited earlier in the day. The brood boxes of the hives themselves were clear of the water, but some floors were immersed. Near the hives was a pallet of deadout brood chambers waiting for pickup; this had been a very poor wintering yard. I proceeded to pick up each pallet of bees with the forklift and move slowly to shore. I was afraid I might hit a chuck hole submerged in the muddy water and dump a pallet. I had the pallet forks on since I had been using a bucket and not had the time to mount the mast (which is much more steady and has a hold-down clamp). I had my veil on -- but not for any real need. No bees ever approached me, and my hands were never attacked. The new shoreline was a slightly inclined grassy slope - there was no brush in the area at all. As I hauled the pallets to shore, flying bees followed each pallet up the bank to the spot where I placed the hives. The water was sufficiently deep that my helper got water over her boots while following the forklift, so I guess I'd better check that I didn't get water in the drive axles. After I had moved all the hives, a few bees were still circling the brood chamber stack, which remained out in the stream. I don't know whether they had been robbing it, or were just using it for orientation, but when I retrieved it and placed it near the new hive locations, they lost interest in it. A few minutes after all was rescued, the bees were coming and going normally from the hives although there was more hovering than normal. I doubt that they all went into their own hives, but they all went in somewhere. When we left, the yard was pretty well back to normal, and no bees were seen to be flying out over the water where the hives had been. FWIW Allen ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 21:06:00 PDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ivan McGill Subject: Re: permadent in extractor Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >There's no need to wire permadent (don't know how you'd do that anyway). >The plastic base of the foundation provides more than enough strength in my >experience. > >Ted Wout >Red Oak, TX Thanks ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 00:34:13 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Alden P. Marshall" Subject: Re: Foundation >are so necessary. > >Cheers, > >JWG Freeville, NY > >--- >NB:1.Send replies to the author or BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU - not this >list > 2.To unsubscribe, email HoneyBee@systronix.net saying leave >BestOfBee My vot goes to Pierco frames or push-in foundation. Regards, >Alden Marshall B-Line Apiaries Hudson, NH 03051 Busybee9@Juno.com tel. 603-883-6764 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 00:34:12 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Alden P. Marshall" Subject: Bee Calm Spray Has anyone trid the product being advertised as of late? A couple of years ago i nhad a brain storm, If I used a spray to mask alarm or any other (beekeepers B.O.) odors perhaps I wouldn't have to asphixiate myself with that awful smoker. Well the wintergreen / water solution worked just fine. However I quickly realized it just wasn't calm bees I wanted. When the top bars are loaded with bees or the edges of the super are loaded and ne wishes to replace the overhead brood box it's nice to be able to get the bees to move. Of course there other reasons to want them to move also. Well I'm still SMOKING myself. Regards, Alden Marshall B-Line Apiaries Hudson, NH 03051 Busybee9@Juno.com tel. 603-883-6764 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 00:34:13 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Alden P. Marshall" Subject: Re: 1996 Mortality Rates On Thu, 17 Apr 1997 22:02:00 -0600 "Noel N. Troxclair, Jr. 618-997-3919" writes: >I polled a group of southern Illinois beekeepers (about 25 beekeepers) >at a >Beekeeper's Association meeting a couple of weeks ago (4 April). The >number of >colonies per beekeeper varied widely among the beekeepers, but the >average loss >through the winter was about 40%. The range of loss was 100% for about >half of >those new beekeepers with a couple to half-a-dozen colonies to no loss >for a >couple of very experienced beekeepers with as many as 30 colonies. >Total loss >was about 70 colonies. > >I talked to another club president today; he lost 7 of 15 colonies. >He said >everyone else in the club lost 100% of their colonies. Most of those >(eight >beekeepers) had around 6-7 hives each. The president mentioned that >he had a >weak colony that was still alive last week when he checked them. They >were low >on honey in the lower hive body where they were located but they had >90 lbs of >honey in the upper hive body. They did not move up and he attributes >his loss >to the bees starving to death. I have some reservations about his >diagnosis. >Anyone out there have any insight or different perspective as to what >might have >happened? > > Sincerely, > > > Noel Troxclair > >Noel Troxclair >108 Airway Drive >Marion, IL 62812 >PH: (618) 997-3919 >FAX: (618) 997-6213 > > { >Hi Noel, The first thing that comes to mind is that treatment procedures were not adhered to and or there were no effective treatment procedures. I do not closely follow the prescribed mite control but never less they are effective. Less than 10 %(~150 colonies) loss two years running after a near wipe out. It is, I believe, still necessary to aggressively treat for both mites. Bees don't starve to death with honey in the hive unless there is a contributing factor. I think more info should be gathered before any serious conclusions can be drawn. Good luck. Regards, Alden Marshall B-Line Apiaries Hudson, NH 03051 Busybee9@Juno.com tel. 603-883-6764 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 00:34:12 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Alden P. Marshall" Subject: Re: Essential Oils >roll of paper towels. Rip the towels apart at the perferations and >place >in plastic container that can be covered. > >Dump the wintergreen into the quart bottle of canola oil and shake >vigorously. Being of different viscosities they do not want to mix >but >will after shaking. Canola oil is an oil that will evaporate >(sic) carrying menthol through out the colony. > >Pour over immediately entire contents over the towels and let sit over > >night. When ever I manipulate or go in, I apply a towel on the top >bars >right in the way of traffic of each full super of brood or honey. The > >bees take approximately 2 days in chewing up the towels to remove them >by >carrying them out and depositing them in your yard. It is amazing how >big >a piece one bee can carry. This gets oil on the bee and its fellow >workers and sufficates the mites. > >I believe the oil is also responsible for inhibiting the communication >and >navigational abilities of the mite. The reason wintergreen or >peppermint >or spearment or pachuli(sorry if this is misspelled) is that these >plants >contain menthol which force the trachael mite from the thorax. > > >George >George & Lorraine Willy >East Burke, Vermont >05832 > Enjoyed Georges' discussion re: oil towles and patties. Last season used paper napkins and any vegetable oil that was a good buy. Carried a plastic container with me all the time with a stack of napkins soaking. The oil need not cover the napkins, they soak it up like a sponge. I just take a whole 4 fold table napkin and lift it off stack and give it one more fold and place it on top bars between top two (use 3 med.) brood supers. Had considered using wintergreen as an additive but didn't get to it. Believe it worked well as it was but intend to try it this year. Interesting thing here, The towel would sit there for a few seconds with the bees avoiding it then they would cautiously approach and then start licking. I have not read anywhere bees have a particular liking for oil. Let us not thik that oils are strange to bees though, plant products have a vast variety of them. Perhaps they like a suppliment? Have used the oil patties for a number of years now, a little different than customary, 50/50 pollen supliment (brewers yeast or soy flour) and granulated sugar. Keep these on all year, Oil keeps powder from turning to rock and/or molding. In most cases they get ignored during foraging periods. Believe them to be good insurance during brief dearths (which we have a nuber of here) and I dont have to make panic rounds when the honey flows end. Regards, Alden Marshall B-Line Apiaries Hudson, NH 03051 Busybee9@Juno.com tel. 603-883-6764 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 11:43:04 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Artificial Swarm Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" A local beekeeper called me today and said he had a few extra queens left over, and would I like to have them. Of course!! When I arrived at his honey shed, he showed me a 50 queen cage package with attendants. As he picked up the box, there was a tremendous roar. "Watch this", he said. We went outside and he opened the box. All the attendants came rushing out and proceeded to fly into the air just like a swarm. He said, "Just think what would have happened if I had opened the box to get your two queen cages INSIDE my honey house." The bees circled around and then came right back to the Queen Hotel. Amazing. They acted just like homing pigeons. Anyone have an idea why they would do this? Cleansing flight? How long can I keep a queen cage with attendants before I put her into a hive? I can't get these gals into a new hive until 2 days from now. I plan to make some nucs on top of weaker queen right hives separated by a double wire board, and then requeen these colonies. Should I feed the attendants sugar candy or honey? I am thrilled to be part of this BEE-list. After 25 years of keeping bees, I still learn new things, thanks to BEE-list subscribers. This is a great global sharing forum. Paul Cronshaw DC Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 03:19:18 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Richard Blohm Subject: Re: Meniere's Disease Hi Andy: Sorry to hear about your skin cancer, but I justed wanted to add one thing. I spoke to Pat Wagner's husband Ray and he said, when he was treating her with bee stings for her MS he decided to try stinging his skin cancer on his arm (he had skin cancer removed from his nose earliar) << Hi Bill, Good to read someone is benefiting from keeping bees and the bee stings. Writing from my own prospective I like to hear about the effects of bee stings, good one's, as we all know the bad one's. Antidotal information may not be scientific, but it is one of the building blocks that results in much good science. Other then that all of us OLd Drones who suffer from the dying process need all the help we can get. No fooling, I have a cancer on my noise!! I have been fighting this skin cancer, a tumor about as big as a nickel, for years with both lazer gun surgery, and the latest chemical products that makes the cancer genes turn on each other...still got the cancer, so not too long ago I read about the guy with the swollen lymph node who applied bee stings and it got better. I know he had a different flavor of cancer, I had that too, but what the heck it's my noise... Well I have been catching a bee a day off the lemon tree and after a sting or two in my fingers, that don't have any problems, I have been getting it on the cancer on my noise. It does hurt and takes several minutes for the stinger to pump a full load, and I shed a tear or two, but if it works and along with the prescribed chemical treatments the cancer goes away I will be publishing my own antidotal comments on the benefit's of bee stings, at least on my own tumor...it will bee about a month before the chemical effects are gone and the skin heals and I think I can handle a sting or two a day without much effort if the cancer is gone, better then the next step, a plastic noise, but then I do get my choice of style...humm.. maybe a real long one for when I am around beekeepers. ttul, the OLd Drone >> ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 11:27:03 +0200 Reply-To: 4a@eureka.it Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: 4a <4a@eureka.it> Organization: Associazione Amici delle Api e dell' Ambiente Subject: Beekeeping meeting MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Friend, On Thursday 24 April 1997 at 22:00 G.M.T. to: http://www.eureka.it/4a/english.htm you will find our chat page to discuss beekeeping problems P.S.: enable java on your browser. See you on Thursday Beekeeping and Bees Friends Association ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 20:41:00 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Guy Miller Subject: Changing the light bulb Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You forgot to count the guy who two years later says he heard there had been some chat about lightbulbs, but missed it, and would like help in finding it in the archives. Guy F. Miller Charlottesville. VA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 09:55:19 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Re: Artificial Swarm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: Paul Cronshaw, D.C. > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Artificial Swarm > Date: Friday, April 18, 1997 2:43 PM > > A local beekeeper called me today and said he had a few extra queens left > over, and would I like to have them. Of course!! > > When I arrived at his honey shed, he showed me a 50 queen cage package > with attendants. As he picked up the box, there was a tremendous roar. > > "Watch this", he said. > > We went outside and he opened the box. All the attendants came rushing out > and proceeded to fly into the air just like a swarm. > > He said, "Just think what would have happened if I had opened the box to > get your two queen cages INSIDE my honey house." > > The bees circled around and then came right back to the Queen Hotel. > Amazing. They acted just like homing pigeons. > > Anyone have an idea why they would do this? Cleansing flight? > > How long can I keep a queen cage with attendants before I put her into a > hive? I can't get these gals into a new hive until 2 days from now. I plan > to make some nucs on top of weaker queen right hives separated by a double > wire board, and then requeen these colonies. > > Should I feed the attendants sugar candy or honey? > > I am thrilled to be part of this BEE-list. After 25 years of keeping bees, > I still learn new things, thanks to BEE-list subscribers. This is a great > global sharing forum. > > Paul Cronshaw DC > Cyberchiro and Hobby Beekeeper > Santa Barbara, CA You can set up a queen nursery as follows: 1. Put a queen excluder on top of the brood chamber of the nursery hive. 2. Put a super on over the excluder. 3. Remove all attendants from the cages so they will not fight with the house bees. 4. Place queen cages, screen side down, over the openings between the topbars of the super. 5. Invert the inner cover and place back on the hive. Use a well populated queen right colony, that is raising brood. Italians are best and Yugos sometimes let the queens starve. I have kept queens this way for over 2 months. When using the queens, I put them in their new hive for 4 days and then release them manually. I have also transferred them to cages with candy so that the bees can release them. Most of the queens will be laying the next day so check in about 3 days to make sure she is laying a good pattern. If the hive you plan to use has several supers, put the queens on top of one that the bees are working. If there is a dearth, the colony needs to be fed or else they won't always feed the stored queens. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 10:12:55 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Storing Queens In-Reply-To: <199704191356.JAA02277@cdc3.cdc.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > You can set up a queen nursery as follows: > 1. Put a queen excluder on top of the brood chamber of the nursery hive. > 2. Put a super on over the excluder. > 3. Remove all attendants from the cages so they will not fight with the > house bees. > 4. Place queen cages, screen side down, over the openings between the > top bars of the super. > 5. Invert the inner cover and place back on the hive. For northerners, this method requires some fine tuning, since the bees will often retreat into a cluster at night, abandoning the supers - and the queens. The next day, the reason for the loss of the queens may not be apparent, since the bees will be back up. Moreover, if the queens are placed outside the volume occupied by the smallest cluster that is likely to ocur if a late storm comes along, their survival will be uncertain. We often place queens in cages (with or without attaendants) directly on the top bars of a brood chamber, just above the brood, and place a raised rim lid over them. A sack over the cages, and under the lid can help ensure warmth. If there are candy holes that are not corked from the outside, they must be covered, or all the queens will be released in a day or so. > If there is a dearth, the colony needs to be fed or else they won't > always feed the stored queens. The host hive must be well fed *before* putting queens on, and kept well fed during the task, if the queens are all to be cared for and not damaged. Although bees may *appear* to accept the queens otherwise, careful examination of queens added to hives that are not well fed often show some queens with feet missing. It is also wise to move the hive aside a ways and/or turn it around - if you have several hives nearby - so that the older field bees will go elsewhere and not harrass the new queens if there is a dearth. This is assuming, of course, that the population will not then be so low that no bees are left to care for the queens. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 18:49:57 +-200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F8rn_Johanesson?= Subject: new beeyear started in Denmark MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The new beeyear season have just started here in Denmark. The most = Beekeepers have been visiting their beeyards and being preparing the = hives for the new year. I think it is about time to start the treatment = against Varroa. I am not very happy by using Apistan or the like because = I see this as a poison that I want to live without. I want to limit the treatment to two natural elements already being a = part of the honey! lactic acid and formic acid. The first because it is mild and suited for = the treatment in Spring and the Other to use after the Honey harvest to = prepare for the overwintering of the bees with as less Varroas as = possible. I know that this kind of treatments is not 100% effective and = can result in dead families, but I think this is a better risk to take = than the risk to incorporate the Apistan elements in the Wax an have = medicine=20 remains in the Honey. I am thinking of all those people allergic to Food = elements. I think it is better to make Small families for overwintering = in a number of about a third of the total families.=20 Anybody out there that have tried some similar to this above?? or want = to comment on it please. --=20 EDBI =3D Beekeeping software for win 3.1+ and win95/NT http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/edbi.htm apimo@post4.tele.dk for more information and manual ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 11:36:15 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: 'Gavia immer' Deborah Wisti-Peterson Subject: bumblebees, anyone? hello everyone. does anyone out there keep bumblebees? i am currently writing a research paper on bumblebees and found some information suggesting that it is possible to "keep" these bees, too. does anyone on this list keep these interesting bees? i have found several nice books that address bumblebees specifically, including _bumblebee economics_ (bernd heinrich is a wonderful writer, in my opinion), _bumblebees_ by albert (this talks mostly about british bumblebee species) and otto plath's _bumblebees and their ways_. despite these three books, there really isn't much information out there that specifically talks about bumblebees, even in the research literature (biosis, expanded academic index, and medline searches yielded very little information about bumblebees). does anyone know of another source of bumblebee info that i might have missed? thanks for your time. Deborah Wisti-Peterson email:nyneve@u.washington.edu Department of Zoology, University of Washington, Seattle, Wash, USA Visit me on the web: http://weber.u.washington.edu/~nyneve/ =-=-=-Graduate School: it's not just a job, it's an indenture!=-=-= ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 09:25:05 +1200 Reply-To: beeman@insurer.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jonathan KP Marshall Subject: Furniture Wax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello everyone, Left over from my honey season down under, I have left over 400 kilo's of wax. I was showing an interested person my extraction proceedure when he noticed the pile of melted wax cakes. He wanted to buy some of it to make furniture wax for his business. In a later conversation with someone else they also requested to use the wax for wood polish. Only he didn't have a recipe for it. So I am wondering of there is anyone reading this that could send me some of their own recipe's that I could pass of to them. Personally I have been only interested in bulk produce and bulk sales but I thought that help those interested in it for their own use. Look forward to heaps of recipes. Jonathan ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 05:32:27 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Guy Miller Subject: polish Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" This was given to me by a woman who said her father is/was (?) curator of antiques in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. "With a cheese grater, grate enough beeswax to fill, loosely, a small jar 2/3 full. Add mineral spirits to cover the wax. Let it stand overnight until dissolved. Stir. It should have the consistency of heavy cream. Apply sparingly, let it dry and buff vigorously. Guy F. Miller Charlottesville. VA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 18:47:27 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: polish MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Another furniture polish which works well is 1 pt boiled linseed oil, 1/4 pint turpentine (min spirits), and 2-3 oz beeswax. Melt together carefully! It is extremely flammable so no open flame. Best way is boil some water in a large pot and put the ingredients in a smaller pot and then into the hot water well away from the source of heat. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 21:26:28 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Brian R Tucker Subject: Queen Eating Honey I have a story then a question. I have this hive that I requeened the other day. The queen was still in the cage after a few days so I went ahead and released her. As soon as I let her out she went straight to an open cell og honey and started eating. She had been in the queen cage for a few weeks with attendants. My question would be. I thought that I read that the other bees feed the queen and that she did not eat on her own. So why then would she have been eating honey. And she wan't just looking to see if the cell was empty she stuck her head in there for a good long time. Thanks. Also for those of you that are interested. I put grease patties with wintergreen oil on this hive a few days ago. It has quite a few varroa mites. And I don't belive in putting on Apistan before the honey flow. And my hive that had patties with oils in it in the winter did great so I thought that I would give it a shot here. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 23:16:47 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert Barnett Organization: DNA Subject: Re: Queen Eating Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brian R Tucker wrote: > > I have a story then a question. > > I have this hive that I requeened the other day. The queen was still in the > cage after a few days so I went ahead and released her. As soon as I let her > out she went straight to an open cell of honey and started eating. The assertion that the queen is always fed by her court, with the implication that she cannot feed herself, and sometimes that she is fed only Royal Jelly, I believe, is false. I have watched a good many Queens hatch from their own Queen cells, and they quite often go promptly to a honey cell nearly full, and drink long and hard with a "pumping" abdomen. They are *not* exploring the cell before mime laying, although even virgin queens often do that. Subsequently, I have watched mature queens feed themselves from honey cells, even come out of a cell just layed in, proceed immediately to a honey cell and eat, again with "pumping" abdomen. . The frequency with which her "court" does feed the queen (royal jelly I presume) is quite necessary. This food, produced by younger nurse bees capable of making it, must either deposit it into building queen cells, into 1-2 day old larval brood cells, or feed it to the queen (As far as I know, it is not stored elsewhere). Obviously, the queen needs a great deal of this material to help enhance production of certain necessary pheromones, and especially she needs its high protein content, from which she builds a thousand(s) eggs each day. Thus, while it *appears* that she is being exclusively fed, I am certain that she feeds herself honey at least part of the time! I shall be interested to know others have made such observations on this. Thanks for a timely observation, Brian. Bob Barnett, Birmingham, Ala ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 08:53:31 +-200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F8rn_Johanesson?= Subject: Bidata coursing troubles then please read MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was foolish enough to try your original software for Win 3.11. Then a = few hours later I read your post of your programing error. I too had the = "newer version of Windows required error" Yes and I am very sorry to hear that. I have to explain that closer to = you so that you can understand what happened. It is not my program coursing the trouble! But one *.dll I have copied = from my windows\system directory. Closer explained it is the OLE2.DLL = which is a Microsoft product. This was also supplied by the original = windows install. But=20 Then a Danish beekeeper called me and claimed that he was missing a file = for the program to run, so to help him out I send him the files he = needed. He then told me that now the software was running as expected. I the decided to deliver this files with the software to be sure that = then calls for not working would stop. And so it did. But and that is = what I am sorry about is, that those files I delivered were files from a = new win.3.11 I had installed. Some people told me about this troubles = that coursed for a lot of people trying to run this software of mine. = Normally new software should be better than old ones, and so it is also = with this *.DLL but only when the windows is designed for it. The step I took was to create a new APPSETUP.INF where I commented the = files out that coursed this error. and I send it to you here, so that = you can try the program. I have tested the install with this file = replaced, on a neighbors computer, which newer have seen my software = before, promising him, that if it fails we should drink a whole box of = beers together. His windows was an early win 3.1. The software installed = and showed up as normal like on my own computer, so I have reason to = think that the new APPSETUP.INF solved the problem. another problem, and this is a programming error I made, is that if a = wlang.countrycode for your country is not present, then you will get the = error listindex out of bounce and an error message telling you unknown = database alias DATA. I didn't trap this error, but it is harmless and is = solved in the following way : select tools\select language and then choose the language you prefer. = then close down Bidata, and the error is solved so that you can run it = normally. and had to reinstall Windows as most other Microsoft progarams would = not work because your program corrupted Windows.=20 In fact the only thing you had a need to reinstall was windows, but that = is of course bad enough. How many other people had the same problem?=20 I think a lot of pure 3.1 users, and I again apology for this. I don't think I'll try the program again as I already learned a valuable lesson about = trying software from the Internet. The language support will the be solved. I better tell you, that it was = no way my intention to harm your Joy using your computer, I am not that = kind of person. Best regards to you and family and again sorry for the trouble I = coursed. http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/appsetup.inf replace the old one in bidat31 installation with this. regards Jorn Johanesson ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 11:29:01 -5 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Corn Syrup - Define Comments: To: dpbees@slkc.uswest.net In-Reply-To: <3356F1C2.4DB@slkc.uswest.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 21:00:02 -0700 > Reply-to: dpbees@slkc.uswest.net > From: Derk Phelps > Organization: Phelps Honey Farm > Subject: Corn Syrup - Define > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Hi, > > Could anyone please give me the final say on corn syrup? How is it > classified and what type is best for bee feed? Diluting concentrate, > using straight? Whats best? > > We have been using granulated sugar syrup and now have access to some > corn syrup. There are quite a few varieties of corn syrup, most are not useful as bee feed. The type you want for feeding bees is high fructose corn syrup (HFCS) sold as "HFCS 42", or "HFCS 55". The number indicates the percentage of fructose, the remaining sugar is dextrose. Prices quoted for HFCS are often for the dry weight, so be careful when shopping. The 55% type is better for wintering bees because there is less dextrose which the bees have trouble digesting. Another advantage to the HFCS55 is that is is not as prone to granulation, a problem with feeding in the north. We use HFCS 55 and always dilute it with a little water, 15% for fall and 20% for spring. This prevents granulation and wakes it easier to handle. Our main reason to feed is to treat with fumidil. If you are feeding primarily to increase colony weight you may want to dilute less. We have found that even 10% (5 gal/BBL) will keep it liquid all winter. Undiluted HFCS will granulate very fast in cold weather, even indoors. As others have mentioned, be sure that you buy syrup not produced by the acid extraction method and stay clear of bargains or off spec. syrup that may be contaminated and kill your bees. Vince ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 13:37:44 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jack Kuehn Subject: Re: Queen Eating Honey In-Reply-To: <15415698700042@systronix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII We have been researching circadian rhythm in honeybees, and to do that we put individuals into small cages with water at one end and sugar candy at the other. They are kept in the dark from before hatching and their locomotor activity is measured by means of an electronic counter. After 10 days or so some bees develop a daily rhythem. Anyway, we want to select for bees that have this trait, so I put day old virgin queens into these cages, by themselves, and they lived four days. I put them back in the queen bank, and some survived. I instrumentally inseminated one of them yesterday with a drone that had been through the same process, so I will find out soon if it will work! It seems queens and drones are able to feed themselves when they are young. Jack Kuehn (217) 333-0977 Beekeeping technician University of Illinois (217) 333-6843 Department of Entomology email; j-kuehn@uiuc.edu 320 Morrill Hall 505 S. Goodwin Urbana, IL 61801 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 14:52:47 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Foreward Re Pollination - S. Michigan Comments: cc: ndhinche@mtu.edu Can anyone help this grower? Forewarded Message: << Date: 97-04-20 14:18:55 EDT From: ndhinche@mtu.edu (Nate Hincher) HI, I'm not sure if you can help me or not but all other avenues have turned up nothing. a friend of mine in southern michigan is looking to get some bees to help pollinate his pumpkin fields. How could he go about finding a bee keeper to help him out? we've looked in the phone book and can't find anything, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Nate Hinc >> Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) Pollination for lay people, students, teachers ....Of bees, beekeepers, and food http://users.aol.com/queenbjan/primbees.htm Pollination for the pros - those involved in doing it: Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Varietal Honeys and Gift Sets http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 14:47:42 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ed Levi Subject: Re: comb honey Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 13:03:18 -0600 >To:allend@internode.net >From:elevi@Aristotle.net (Ed Levi) >Subject:Re: comb honey > >>> In one of Richard Taylor's books, he recommends crowding bees down >>> into one brood chamber just before the honey flow, in order to get the >>> maximum comb honey production. I've always kept two brood chambers for >>> fear of swarming. Have any of you used his method? Any cautions? >>> >>> Thanks, bill mares c.v.u. high school, Hinesburg, Vt. >> >>As a large commercial producer of Ross Rounds, I always used that >>(former) method. Yes, you will get swarms some of the time, but you will >>always get lots of comb honey. >> >>Allen > >Crowding or blocking the queen during a honey flow is something I learned >while keeping bees in France. It makes lots of sense when you think about >the fact that you want lots of bees duringr the flow and not necessarily >afterwards. Also, consider that most of the honey and nectar that bees >make is used to produce brood. By reducing the brood area, more surplus >is produced. Of course, swarming risks rise with more crowding. > >Ed Levi >couple hundred hives - 25 years of learning (& counting) > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 00:19:04 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Glyn Davies Subject: Re: need bees! Comments: To: "P. Aras et M. Boily" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 11:22 14/04/97 -0500, you wrote: >Hi Ed, > >I have never seen bees feeding at hummingbird feedesr. Wasps and ants >yes, but wild and honey bees, no. >Phillipe Aras >Carillon,Qc. Can. > Phillipe I have just read your post on Bee-L. I am not sure of ther context of this letter. I've not looked at my mail box for a week! I was touring Arizona about 6 weeks ago. We visited the Desert Museum outside Tuscon. In the humming bird enclosure the feeders were all being visited by honeybees. About 6 on each one. They were also on the feeders outside the enclosure too but not so many. A ranger in the enclosure told us that the syrup for the hummingbirds in the enclosure contained vitamin and protein supplements because in captivity they were unable to obtain them otherwise. In the wild the h.birds eat small insects. Interestingly, the museum is in an isolated part of the desert and the ranger was not aware of any hives in the area. The bees looked healthy enough. I suppose they would on that special diet! If they were feral bees I wonder if their diet is helping them survive the mites? I'll copy this to the Bee-L as someone in Arizona may wish to comment. Glyn Davies, Ashburton, Devon. UK ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 15:10:02 -1000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: mortality rates MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What effect might the viruses be playing in the die out rates? It seems like no one is interested in the viruses. Has anyone heard any current news about the efforts of the USDA to once again revisit the Honey Bee Act issue at the continued request of the Australian and New Zealand beekeeper associations for permission to import honey bees to the US ? Also what if anything is happening about the semen issue to ease the prohibition against importing honey bee semen. What can be transfered in H B semen? Next can someone explain HMF in honey. Is it good or is it bad and how. Where does it come from and what causes it. Does its presence in Honey increase over time? Some help would be appreciated. Walter in Hawaii ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 21:18:43 +22324924 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Adam Finkelstein Subject: Re: Queen Eating Honey In-Reply-To: <970419212627_1154152303@emout03.mail.aol.com> from "Brian R Tucker" at Apr 19, 97 09:26:28 pm Content-Type: text Brian R Tucker wrote: > I thought that I read that the other bees feed the queen and that she >did not eat on her own. So why then would she have been eating honey. I've seen lots of queens eat honey. I also had a queen sting me the other day. Bees seem to perplex the makers of absolutes, don't they. :) Adam -- _________________ Adam Finkelstein adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf/home.html ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 22:50:23 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kirk Jones Subject: St. Ambrose Birthday? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, I noticed a few months ago the thread on the Patron Saints and Godesses of beekeepers. Could the person(s) with that information please email me how to find out more about him? Also when is St. Ambrose's Birthday? I'm considering making that a day of celebration in my shop. Sharon *Kirk Jones/ Sleeping Bear Apiaries /971 S. Pioneer Rd./Beulah,MI 49617 *Sharon Jones/ BeeDazzled Candleworks /6289 River Rd./ Benzonia, MI 49616 e-mail b-man@aliens.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 22:38:14 +0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: George_Willy Subject: Re: FWIW Department: Re: Essential Oils Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >In the discussion of the beekeeper who soaked paper towels in canola oil and >wintergreeen you stated that there were errors. What were these errors >since his method sure sounded simple. > >Faith Andrews Bedford >Ivy VA and Tampa Faith; I posted a message about oil and wintergreen that I use, last week. I don't have a copy of that posting and find the practice to be quite successfull. I don't know of any errors and perhaps I said that "I may be in error" only trying to be polite to those of greater knowledge of beekeeping than myself and not affirming this as an standard and accepted practice. George PS - It works George & Lorraine Willy The Village Inn of East Burke Box 186 East Burke, Vermont 05832 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 22:38:18 +0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: George_Willy Subject: Re: Bee Tree Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Ted: I presently have a bee tree in our back yard that we harvested from some 40 miles from here last fall. Some tips for you. If you can, fel a seperate tree at the spot where you plan to fel the bee tree. This will act as a cushion when the bee tree falls and will rile the bees less. When cutting the bee tree leave a thick hinge so as to almost hold the tree by itself. Then take a wedge and insert it into the saw cut on the opposite side of fall. Drive the wedge by splitting mall or sledge and the tree will slowly start leaning in the direction opposite the wedge. The hinge will hold the tree quite a ways cutting the impact considerably. One precaution the tree is probably dead and there are dead limbs above you. They may break off. The wood is brittle and will not stretch like live wood but will snap. Don't cut the branches first while standing. They act as a cushion. The queen in a cup with workers may not work. You may injure her. Have a set up nearby. Bottom board 2 deeps inner cover and cover, 20 deep empty frames with wire. Fell the tree. Cut from the top till you find the beginning of the cavity. It's bigger than you think. Cut from the bottom till you find the cavity. Smoke the top and bottom and entrance. Cut the length of the trunk with the saw only to score the log to help split it. With wedge's, split the tree and lay open. Find the brood and cut and shape to fit the frames. Need a 90 degree day so as not to chill the brood. Lay the brood on the wire and wrap with additional wire or large rubber bands and place into the deeps as quickly as possible. The queen will stay on one of the pieces of brood. Do this on one or several white sheets. It helps the bees stay on top of the grass and prevents unnessary killing and crushing. Get all the brood in and surround with honey. Close up the hive and leave untill night fall. At night cover up entrances with 1/8" hardware cloth for ventilation and move to a suitable location. Glad to help and good luck. George George & Lorraine Willy The Village Inn of East Burke Box 186 East Burke, Vermont 05832 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 21:55:24 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Roy Nettlebeck Subject: Re: mortality rates In-Reply-To: <199704210115.PAA21863@lehua.ilhawaii.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Sun, 20 Apr 1997, Walter Patton wrote: > What effect might the viruses be playing in the die out rates? It seems > like no one is interested in the viruses. Hi Walter, We have plenty of people interested in the virus problem.In the USDA Dr. Hung, at UC Davis Dr. Peng inthe UK Dr. Ball who will publish her work soon.Up in Ontario Canada Dr. Tellie Welesh. To work with viruses it takes a lot of time and money.If your interested in more info on the subject read, Honey Bee Pathology by L. Baily & B.V. Ball 1991 Academic Press Ltd. ISBN 0-12-073481-8 . We do know that Varroa is a vector of at least 3 viruses and maybe 2 more.Because your working with protien covered material getting in DNA and RNA to multiply it becomes complex.Mites are simple , but because of there relationship with viruses , it is hard to know if the bee already had the virus but inactive or the mite gave the virus to the bee. I'm very interseted in the virus problem. I know that some of my loss in 95 was do to the virus and the mite. The bees died too fast to be just V.mites. We need to get as much help as we can for the researchers. This research is very spendy and there is not much money out there for virus research. This is a world problem , not just a US problem. I don't know of a place that is free of all 22 bee viruses. Best Regards Roy ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 21:22:03 +1100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Nick Wallingford Subject: Re: FWIW: Re: Queen Eating Honey In-Reply-To: <03435533602647@systronix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > I've seen lots of queens eat honey. I also had a queen sting me the other > day. Bees seem to perplex the makers of absolutes, don't they. I think the way I heard it from some old book was "Bees do nothing invariably". I guess that's what makes them interesting... (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@wave.co.nz (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz NZ Beekeeping http://www.wave.co.nz/pages/nickw/nzbkpg.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 09:48:04 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: beetles inside hives When I open my hives I usually find a couple of black and orange beetles the size of asparagus beetles walking around on the inner covers and bottom boards. Are these checkered beetles and how much of a problem are a few of these in tthe hive? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 03:33:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Re: need bees! GD>From: Glyn Davies >Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 00:19:04 +0100 GD>I was touring Arizona about 6 weeks ago. We visited the Desert Museum >outside Tuscon. >Interestingly, the museum is in an isolated part of the desert and >the ranger was not aware of any hives in the area. Last time I was there they had their own hive, and sold local honey in the gift shop, but the hive may have been in the way of one of the new exhibits. I believe it was in the middle of the turtle run towards the back. In any case take my word for it there many hives within the flight range of the Desert Museum if not right down the road just off the main road back in the brush out of sight and harms way. ttul Andy- --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ Let the honey flow!!!!! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 10:53:56 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "P. Aras et M. Boily" Subject: Re: Queen Eating Honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brian R Tucker wrote: > > I have a story then a question. > > I have this hive that I requeened the other day. The queen was still in the > cage after a few days so I went ahead and released her. As soon as I let her > out she went straight to an open cell of honey and started eating. >>The assertion that the queen is always fed by her court, with the >>implication that she cannot feed herself, and sometimes that she is fed >>only Royal Jelly, I believe, is false. I have watched a good many >>Queens hatch from their own Queen cells, and they quite often go >>promptly to a honey cell nearly full, and drink long and hard with a >>"pumping" abdomen. They are *not* exploring the cell before mime >>laying, although even virgin queens often do that. Subsequently, I >>have watched mature queens feed themselves from honey cells, even come >>out of a cell just layed in, proceed immediately to a honey cell and >>eat, again with "pumping" abdomen. . The frequency with which her >>"court" does feed the queen (royal jelly I presume) is quite necessary. >>This food, produced by younger nurse bees capable of making it, must >>either deposit it into building queen cells, into 1-2 day old larval >>brood cells, or feed it to the queen (As far as I know, it is not stored >>elsewhere). Obviously, the queen needs a great deal of this material to >>help enhance production of certain necessary pheromones, and especially >>she needs its high protein content, from which she builds a thousand(s) >>eggs each day. Thus, while it *appears* that she is being exclusively >>fed, I am certain that she feeds herself honey at least part of the >>time! I shall be interested to know others have made such observations >>on this. Thanks for a timely observation, Brian. >>Bob Barnett, Birmingham, Ala When very very hungry, very few adult living beings will wait for someone else to feed them if the food is available. If the're like my loving wife, it's get out of the way, i'm damn hungry. Must be the same even for monarchs. Just one thing, the sucking pump of the bee is in the head of the animal, the pumping action of the abdomen is for air intake through the spiracles. As a mater of fact, bees do not breathe by their mouth. Philippe Aras, Carillon, Qc ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 18:31:55 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robin Wells Subject: Re: The Beekeeping Software to expencive ??? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We downloaded the test software, and it will not run. Keeps saying List Index out of Bounds. At any rate we have not used up all but 3 of our trial entries into the programme.. at which point I guess we have to uninstall it. Any ideas? ---------- > From: Jxrn Johanesson > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: The Beekeeping Software to expencive ??? > Date: Wednesday, April 16, 1997 18:59 PM > > EDBi and I have been discussing the registration fee for the Beekeeping > software, distributed by EDBi and developed by me! > > We have decided to make a special offer for the beekeeper with only a few > hives to maintain (Max 20) > > Please email to apimo@post4.tele.dk for more information and introduktion! > > regards > Jorn Johanesson > > http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/edbi.htm for download of software. > > > > > > /Jorn Johanesson > > EDBi = Beekeeping software > e-mail apimo@post4.tele.dk > edbi homepage http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/edbi.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 22:10:35 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: fryz@MIDWEST.NET Subject: new bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have just caught my first swarm of bees off of a tree in my front yard. I am from Illinois and was wondering if the lack of blooming plant life would warrant a supplement to their diet, and if so what would it be? I am presently keeping the bees in a 21" by 20" wooden main box and plan to put some sort of super on it with frames extending downward leaving a quarter inch around the edges. Are these suitable accomodations for my bees? any reply would be appreciated fryz@midwest.net ****************************************************************************** Fran Frymire PO Box 132 Enfield, IL 62835 Voice (618) 963-2260 Email fryz@midwest.net ****************************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 12:08:24 -0500 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Theodore V. Fischer" Subject: Re: Foreward Re Pollination - S. Michigan MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit David Green wrote: > > Can anyone help this grower? > > Forewarded Message: > > << Date: 97-04-20 14:18:55 EDT > From: ndhinche@mtu.edu (Nate Hincher) > > HI, I'm not sure if you can help me or not but all other avenues have > turned up nothing. a friend of mine in southern michigan is looking to get > some bees to help pollinate his pumpkin fields. How could he go about > finding a bee keeper to help him out? we've looked in the phone book and > can't find anything, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Where in southern Michigan is he located? I might have some leads in southeasten Michigan (near Detroit and Toledo, OH). Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 15:55:12 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: PondSite Subject: Split hives, new foundation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I recently split two (2) hives and added to each, a new hive body on the top of each one, with new foundation in each frame. It has been 22 days since I made the split, and yesterday I opened both hives to see how the bees were doing. The bees seem to be doing fine, new brood, new honey, lots of bees. I have been feeding them sugar syrup, but even though there are bees in the top hive, no foundation is being made. This is the first time that I have split a hive, and don't know if I have done something wrong, or not enough of something right. HELP! Walt ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 18:15:29 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Miller Subject: Re: permadent in extractor How do the plastic foundations hold up in an extractor? Very well, thank you. Even with overzealous kids on the extractor crank, I don't get the "blowouts" with plastic foundations that I used to get with Duragilt and wired wax. W. G. Miller Gaithersburg, MD ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 22 Apr 1997 00:57:55 +-200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F8rn_Johanesson?= Subject: SV: The Beekeeping Software to expencive ??? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC4EBA.6B38CF20" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC4EBA.6B38CF20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- Fra: Robin Wells[SMTP:rawells@JENERA.COM] Sendt: 20. april 1997 00:31 Til: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Emne: Re: The Beekeeping Software to expencive ??? We downloaded the test software, and it will not run. Keeps saying List Index out of Bounds. At any rate we have not used up all but 3 of our trial entries into the programme.. at which point I guess we have to uninstall it. Any ideas? It is the language support failing. Sorry it is a programming error. Two possibilitys can solve this: 1. find the wlang.44 if win31 or the wlang32.44 if win95 rename wlang.44 wlang.??, ?? is your countrycode or the wlang32.44 to wlang32.?? still your contrycode 2. when you get to the maincreen and see the error message. Select menuitem tools\select language and then select the language you prefer. close down bidata and the language error has gone. This is of course fixed in the release version regards Jorn ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC4EBA.6B38CF20 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 eJ8+IisXAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAENgAQAAgAAAAIAAgABBJAG ANQDAAACAAAAFAAAAAMAADAFAAAACwAPDgAAAAACAf8PAQAAAE8AAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmdbgDd AQ9UAgAAAABEaXNjdXNzaW9uIG9mIEJlZSBCaW9sb2d5AFNNVFAAQkVFLUxAQ05TSUJNLkFMQkFO WS5FRFUAAB4AAjABAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgADMAEAAAAYAAAAQkVFLUxAQ05TSUJNLkFMQkFO WS5FRFUAHgAaAAEAAAAUAAAAUkVQT1JULklQTS5OT1RFLk5EUgBAADIAoEQzXKdOvAEDAAQMAAAA AAMABQz/////AwAVDAAAABADAP4PBgAAAB4AARABAAAAUAAAAERlciB2YXIgaW5nZW4gdHJhbnNw b3J0cHJvdmlkZXJlIHRpbGfmbmdlbGlnZSB0aWwgYXQgbGV2ZXJlIHRpbCBkZW5uZSBtb2R0YWdl ci4AHgABMAEAAAAcAAAAJ0Rpc2N1c3Npb24gb2YgQmVlIEJpb2xvZ3knAAIBCzABAAAAHQAAAFNN VFA6QkVFLUxAQ05TSUJNLkFMQkFOWS5FRFUAAAAAAwAAOQAAAAACARI6AQAAAE8AAAAAAAAAgSsf pL6jEBmdbgDdAQ9UAgAAAABEaXNjdXNzaW9uIG9mIEJlZSBCaW9sb2d5AFNNVFAAQkVFLUxAQ05T SUJNLkFMQkFOWS5FRFUAAB4AEzoBAAAAHAAAACdEaXNjdXNzaW9uIG9mIEJlZSBCaW9sb2d5JwAC ARQ6AQAAAB0AAABTTVRQOkJFRS1MQENOU0lCTS5BTEJBTlkuRURVAAAAAAsAQDoBAAAAAgH2DwEA AAAEAAAAAAAABQ4AAAADAAAwBgAAAAsADw4BAAAAAgH/DwEAAABPAAAAAAAAAIErH6S+oxAZnW4A 3QEPVAIAAAAARGlzY3Vzc2lvbiBvZiBCZWUgQmlvbG9neQBTTVRQAEJFRS1MQENOU0lCTS5BTEJB TlkuRURVAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AAzABAAAAGAAAAEJFRS1MQENOU0lCTS5BTEJB TlkuRURVAB4AGgABAAAACAAAAElQTS5OT1RFAwAVDAEAAAADAP4PBgAAAB4AATABAAAAHAAAACdE aXNjdXNzaW9uIG9mIEJlZSBCaW9sb2d5JwACAQswAQAAAB0AAABTTVRQOkJFRS1MQENOU0lCTS5B TEJBTlkuRURVAAAAAAMAADkAAAAAAgEUOgEAAAAQAAAAmbu55aG60BGjFwQIAACCAAsAQDoBAAAA AgH2DwEAAAAEAAAAAAAABp3IAQiABwAYAAAASVBNLk1pY3Jvc29mdCBNYWlsLk5vdGUAMQgBBIAB AC0AAABTVjogVGhlIEJlZWtlZXBpbmcgU29mdHdhcmUgdG8gZXhwZW5jaXZlID8/PwBlDwEFgAMA DgAAAM0HBAAWAAAAOQA3AAIAYAEBBgAHABgAAABJUE0uTWljcm9zb2Z0IE1haWwuTm90ZQAxCAEg gAMADgAAAM0HBAAWAAAAIwAbAAIALgEBCYABACEAAAA5OUJCQjlFNUExQkFEMDExQTMxNzA0MDgw MDAwODIwMADoBgEDkAYAbAUAABMAAAALACMAAAAAAAMAJgAAAAAACwApAAAAAAADADYAAAAAAEAA OQAAiC1zp068AR4AcAABAAAALQAAAFNWOiBUaGUgQmVla2VlcGluZyBTb2Z0d2FyZSB0byBleHBl bmNpdmUgPz8/AAAAAAIBcQABAAAAFgAAAAG8TqWaeuW5u5q6oRHQoxcECAAAggAAAB4AHgwBAAAA BQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgAfDAEAAAAUAAAAYXBpbW9AcG9zdDQudGVsZS5kawADAAYQ7BavuQMABxDc AgAAHgAIEAEAAABlAAAALS0tLS0tLS0tLUZSQTpST0JJTldFTExTU01UUDpSQVdFTExTQEpFTkVS QUNPTVNFTkRUOjIwQVBSSUwxOTk3MDA6MzFUSUw6QkVFLUxAQ05TSUJNQUxCQU5ZRURVRU1ORTpS RQAAAAACAQkQAQAAAL8DAAC7AwAAxwYAAExaRnUbDZ2T/wAKAQ8CFQKoBesCgwBQAvIJAgBjaArA c2V0MjcGAAbDAoMyA8UCAHByQnER4nN0ZW0CgzN3AuQHEwKAfQqACM8J2TvxFg8yNTUCgAqBDbEL YOBuZzEwMw3wCwoUUTUL8mMAQCAKhQqLbGkIMTgwAtFpLTE0njQN8AzQHNMLWTE2CqDrA2AT0GMF QC0e9wqHHavDDDAedkZyYTof/h52CwyCB/FiC4AgV2VsAGxzW1NNVFA6BSGgdyQSQEpFTkWAUkEu Q09NXR+f4yCtBmBuZHQhzyLbAdAYLiBhE1ADETE5OcQ3IBxwOjMxJe8grQ0HYGwoPyLbQkVFLQBM QENOU0lCTQAuQUxCQU5ZLhhFRFUrXyCtRW1ujmUtjyLcMwFUaGUvUFUJ4GsJ4HALgGcGAG8NAYB3 CsA1UHRvIGVEeHAJ8GNpdjVQP+c3gBr/HAMzNh13GkUedkEkACBkb3duFaBhPQ2wZDagNUET0BPA IHPNNjUsKkAoACBpBUAD8AkkICBuHpAgcnVuGSowIEs1sQQgc2F51TXiTAQAdAqFSSgANuB+IAhg BUA2MC9QCGAoAHNaLje8QQVAAHB5PbBhvxPQPSA1UBGAN1E9gnURsFk7cHVwKkA9UWJAETP/QDII YTagByI20AIwCIEEID8LgDaxO5EKhR5xCcBhbc0HgC4qMT0RaGkRcEaQ5m9FsT+QIGcKUAQRQoZ/ NrE90AuAE8BDwj0APfFB5UIBaQ2wYXM3phl/GoweSQVABAA7gxjydWFnnTVQc0OQR/AAICBmC3DP HDAZECowNiByckqRTYNeYUaXNeIEkANgckDdVG53NsBH8AQQaSPAHDB02ROwIGMDkTwgbEkiR6D0 czpLFTFA3RygPNE7knp3GPIuHOA88EBQA/BuTyswP/BEsVZmMzJW6Dn2NTe8FhBuRvBWeVaFN4D3 PKA3gE2SeUSSBaA90ETQ/nkFoA2wSxVXvzaiWCZb4f08EHQ9QlxFXM1LFViAR4H/CfBcMkhgEcA2 ojuSAMALgP8FAAnhPLMRsFQiNVBRU2NQP0iRTmFPkSQQHrIHgG513z0AE+A2oQbwEyBcEbBl0/9O FzzCO5FTwWXETdtichNQ9w3ABJBA1mMVoBGwOtND8P9KsEJAUHBoJU4IZMQRgAQg/mcCIEcgUb1U UU2SQEFckfsRoVXxeDthI9E7khYQZdBvSuA1UDdQEaBpAiBZXmf7CxEEIEoFsHHmOJ85r3OfF3Sv dbwVMQB5YAADABAQAAAAAAMAERAAAAAAQAAHMABDwU+kTrwBQAAIMABDwU+kTrwBAgEUOgEAAAAQ AAAAmbu55aG60BGjFwQIAACCAB4APQABAAAABQAAAFNWOiAAAAAA850= ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC4EBA.6B38CF20-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 20:36:06 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Arthur Subject: Re: Foreward Re Pollination - S. Michigan Comments: To: "Theodore V. Fischer" In-Reply-To: <335B9F08.3D77@umich.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII He should try calling his local County Extention Service. Jim On Mon, 21 Apr 1997, Theodore V. Fischer wrote: > David Green wrote: > > > > Can anyone help this grower? > > > > Forewarded Message: > > > > << Date: 97-04-20 14:18:55 EDT > > From: ndhinche@mtu.edu (Nate Hincher) > > > > HI, I'm not sure if you can help me or not but all other avenues have > > turned up nothing. a friend of mine in southern michigan is looking to get > > some bees to help pollinate his pumpkin fields. How could he go about > > finding a bee keeper to help him out? we've looked in the phone book and > > can't find anything, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated > > Where in southern Michigan is he located? I might have some leads in > southeasten Michigan (near Detroit and Toledo, OH). > > Ted Fischer > Dexter, Michigan USA > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 20:51:08 -0400 Reply-To: Hosanna@ictransnet.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Timothy A. Thompson" Organization: Hosanna Apiaries Subject: Re: Split hives, new foundation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit PondSite wrote: > > I recently split two (2) hives and added to each, a new hive body on the > top of each one, with new > > foundation in each frame. It has been 22 days since I made the split, and > yesterday I opened both > > hives to see how the bees were doing. The bees seem to be doing fine, new > brood, new honey, lots of > > bees. I have been feeding them sugar syrup, but even though there are bees > in the top hive, no foundation > > is being made. This is the first time that I have split a hive, and don't > know if I have done something > > wrong, or not enough of something right. HELP! Walt In the hive body you put the split in,did you fill it up with foundation outside of the frames you split with or comb? If empty comb they may be putting the feed into the comb still:continue feeding until they quit taking it. If foundation was used they may be drawing it out in the lower hive body. At any rate continue feeding till they quit taking it. They will get it drawn out. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 21:22:06 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "William A. Simmons" Subject: Re: new bees Supplimental feed is needed, i.e., a 50/50 mixture of sugar syrup. The ideal for housing the bees in on standard equipment with drawn comb on standard moveable frames. If you do not have drawn comb, then pure bees wax foundation is also good. But you are going to move these bees to standard equipment sooner or later, and better to do it sooner than later. The longer you wait the more difficult it will be to manage the bees due to irregular comb building, cross combs, etc. This will make it harder to move the bees to their new standard hive as well. Buy new equipment to ensure that it is desease free. It is best to pay now, then to pay double later. Bill Simmons (WillSimm42@aol.com) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:13:36 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Gary Ford Fund Gary and I want to thank each of you who helped to encourage Gary by your generous gifts. About 235 dollars was received and some bees and brood were also given, so he has gotten close to $400 in aid. All your snail mail notes and copies of the e-mail comments were also turned over to him. He will be in contact with many of you, as soon as he can, though some gave anonymously, so he cannot. Gary was much encouraged by your evidence that there are a lot of caring people in the world yet. He is back in New York right now, preparing an old truck which he will bring to get the bees he still has. I am glad he's not going to try to truck bees in the old school bus. There is no way to get adequate ventilation. I looked at some of his nucs yesterday, and they are doing very well. He hopes to split again, and I think he'll be using the contributions for queens. He should have enough brood to make some more hives up. Frankly, I am surprised (pleasantly) to see how well these nucs are drawing foundation. He could even have a little honey to harvest before he leaves South Carolina. I had delayed this note, in hopes that I would have some good news on the police investigation, but I have been unable to get any information, so that item will have to wait. Thank you again, good folks! Dave Green ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:16:15 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Carolina Report Despite recent cooler weather, the blossoms continue to move along about three weeks ahead of schedule. A little gallberry is now open, though the bulk of it is still in the bud. We usually get gallberry starting around May 5. We've had two frosty mornings, but little damage was done, except in pockets. Friday was so cold the bees didn't work at all, but they were right back out Saturday. Yesterday and today gave the best flow yet this season. We are adding supers to many hives. Except for some that swarmed, the supers are full of bees. I really like to pop the lid and see wall-to-wall bees across all the top bars in the top super. An occasional hive has plugged out already, but most hives have not capped too much yet. This spring has produced more swarms than I've seen in several years, and some of them are where I do not know of any kept bees. I was supposed to check on one today, but from the description, I suspect they are already in the wall of a house, and I just didn't get to it. For some reason folks are calling from a long ways out. I got a request to get a swarm in Columbia (two hours away), today. Last year's spring freeze killed the bloom on many of the berries and fruits. This year they bloomed heavily. The wild plums around one of my bee yards have a thumb-sized green plum every inch or so on the branch, probably 10 to 15 per branch. If they all ripen they will be breaking limbs. Huckleberry bloomed the same way, and the most common type is nearly done. Holly had heavy bloom and is now done. Blackberry is midway in the bloom period and many of the thickets look just like snow. Gallberry is budded heavily. Tupelo came and went during the colder days, and I don't think yielded a lot. But all in all, it looks like a good honey year. Of course I never would count the honey, until it is in the drum. I have seen bees produce it and promptly eat it back up in a bad weather spell. I hear moans and groans from the Florida folks that gallberry is not yielding like normal. The weather is too cold and windy, with a lot of rain. That's a tough loss after the orange crop was so weak. Well folks, we took our turn last year, with late March temperatures in the teens, and hard freezes until the end of the first week of April. We had the first noticeable pesticide hit last weekend, right here in Hemingway. I don't know what it was from, and haven't had the time to investigate. I suspect mid-day mosquito spraying, because the mosquitos have been bad. Seems like the vector control folks should know better by now. I don't know of any farm spraying yet, of the type that could cause loss. Once in a while we have an early hit from wheat spraying, when there is a lot of mustard blooming with the wheat, but there is no wheat near these bees. Wheat is now heading, and, if they spray, that is the time they do it. Our town barbeque-shag festival is this weekend, and we are having open house at the honey house Friday and Saturday. We are NOT ready! I guess we'll get ready, because it is already advertised. If the weather is good, there may be ten thousand visitors in town. This is the barbeque capital of the world, folks. Y'all come on down for some good eating! Now, if you talk barbeque in Texas, you are talking beef, in the northeast you are talking chicken. Here you are talking pork - in its entirety, with secret sauce recipes and all. There will be about 25 whole hogs slowly cooking all night long, for the benefit of the judges and the public. We've offered to top off the grand prize with a case of quarts, if the official winner has used South Carolina honey as THE sweetener in the sauce. Just in time to interfere with the festival plans, the kiwifruit is coming into bloom, and I expect to have to move bees in later this week. Kiwi is a difficult fruit to pollinate, and requires some attention to do it well. With gallberry coming on so early, we may have a real hard time keeping bees in the kiwi blossoms. Ho, boy, what a week this will bee! Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green, PO Box 1200, Hemingway, SC 29554 (Dave & Jan's Pollination Service, Pot o'Gold Honey Co.) Practical Pollination Home Page Dave & Janice Green http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 23:28:45 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Bee Tree Epilogue Hello All, Well, we felled the bee tree in Lancaster, TX last Saturday and had a great and educational time. First of all we had a gallery that Tiger Woods would be envious of. Every neighbor that passed by was interested in our adventure and I think we pulled off some great beekeeping public relations. We only had one bee sting and that was surprising to me considering how close people were to the epicenter of activity. Folks were coming right up and looking into the tree to see the combs and everything! Even passers-by were slowing down and rubber-necking or stopping to take a look. It was wonderful. First of all I have to thank Dave Green for giving us the advice to cut the tree down and set it horizontal with the hole pointed up. We put the hive body on top just like he recommended and have yet to see if the queen moves up. Anyway, that saved us a bunch of time and much work that would have probably left more people nursing stings. In short, we basically fell the tree. It was an old sycamore and hollow from the base to about 2/3 of its height. I'd say it stood somewhere between 20' and 25' tall. The bees seemed dazed and weren't all that violent. People were standing around them talking and watching. Bees landed on a few people but there were no stinging incidents at the tree felling site. The owner of the house did the felling wearing a bee suit that we loaned him. Once the tree was down he started cutting where we thought the comb stopped at the bottom of the tree. Another neighbor went and got his chainsaw and started cutting where we thought the hives upper extent was. He wasn't wearing anything resembling protective gear and didn't get stung. It seemed his chainsaw kind of lulled the bees. That neighbors wife, the member of this list who started this whole adventure (I'm not using her name in case she wants to maitain some anonymity, she can write a perspective on the event if she wants), took pictures of the whole event. The homeowner's pet chicken joined the party and started eating the bugs and worms that had previously lived in the tree. Through all of this we managed to seal up the hollow section that contained the bees. We stuck it in the back of a pickup truck and hauled it to my backyard about 7 miles away. We unloaded it and set the log where I wanted it. I had previously made a bottom board from plywood and some wood scraps to hold a hive body on the limb hole that the bees had used as an entrance. We mounted and sealed around that board, set a hive body with foundation, some drawn comb and honey on it and put a lid on it. The single stinging incident happened in my back yard. We had a convoy come down to my back yard and I guess we let folks get a little too close. Now we're waiting for the queen to get tired of that sideways comb and move up into the hive body. There's some drawn comb just above the opening in the log for her. After that we'll put an excluder under her and encourage the rest of the bees to move up with her. Once that's done, we'll remove the log from below the hive, set the hive on stacked concrete blocks to keep it at the same approximate height, and split the log. I'll let these bees rob it out and render their comb. I want to hinge the split log, put some sort of roof on it and use it as a swarm catcher. I plan to split these bees eventually to get some more of this queen's progeny. I don't plan to treat for Varroa because I want to see if they have some natural defense against it. If they do I guess I'll need an experts help at raising queens. Keep your fingers crossed. Thanks to everyone on the list who offered advice or comments. The help is really appreciated. This was a wonderful experience that originated right here on this list when someone who lives seven miles away from me broadcast to the world via Bee Line that she wanted to save some bees in a tree before the homeowner exterminated them. After this experience, that homeowner wants me to return these bees to his yard in a manageable hive and teach him to keep bees! Ted Wout, 3rd year, 10 hives, 1 house removal in progress, and 1 bee tree. (I love this hobby!) Red Oak, TX