From LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mon Jun 30 09:39:09 1997
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 09:28:50 -0400
From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8c)"
     <LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
To: Adam Finkelstein <adamf@sunsite.unc.edu>
Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9706B"

=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 7 Jun 1997 22:53:40 -0700
Reply-To:     mwr@hotcity.com
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Michael Reddell <mwr@hotcity.com>
Subject:      Re: What should I have done?
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Brett D Bannon wrote:
>
> I need some Advice!
>
> Have Hive that swarmed, and after swarm left for who knows where I
> decided to split the double bodies with the hopes of getting two hives.
> Upon splitting I realized that most of the queen cells were between the
> two bodies and seemed to be destroyed upon splitting.
> I went ahead with the split and waited 23 days before I had a chance of
> looking into how this process had worked.
>
> Today May 6, I have no queens, if all the open cells showing no brood and
> no eggs is an indication, lots of honey and pollen.
>
> Question?  What could I have done to help make this double body split
> work better (not destroy the queen cells between bodies).
>
> Question?  If I add to each queenless split one frame from another hive
> will this be enough to help them raise a queen from a newly laid egg?

The important point to remember here is that LOTS OF BEES are the key to
making a split, not just having some queen cells.
I wouldn't have split a freshly swarmed hive at all.
Sure you have lots of queen cells, but you also have a depleted
population. The colony is weakened by the loss of the swarm and
splitting further weakens it.  To further complicate things it sounds
like you may have damaged all the viable queen cells in the process of
splitting.

I wouldn't force these bees to make a queen from a frame of brood now
either.  That would further weaken the colonies due to the fact that the
bees lost to attrition are not being replaced while they make the new
queen.  I would re-combine the splits and introduce a quality package
queen right away - assuming there are still enough young bees to make a
viable colony.

It's getting to that critical time of year (in most places in the
temperate zone of the northern hemisphere) when your colonies need to be
hitting peak population in order to produce a crop, or even to be strong
enough to go into winter.  If you want to split, find a hive hell-bent
on swarming and beat them to the punch.  If you're lucky, the disruption
might get them out of the swarming mood.  And one of your splits will
already have a queen.

Michael Reddell
mwr@hotcity.com
http://www.hotcity.com/~mwr
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Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 09:49:35 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "JG~NY" <jwg6@cornell.edu>
Subject:      Re: British Bees
In-Reply-To:  <199706050201_MC2-17E5-8CBA@compuserve.com>
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 <<<<If you want to find out more about the British
>native bees, look for the
>BIBBA *British Isles Bee Breeders Assn.* home page.  (that's @ --

http://www.angus.co.uk/bibba/


Sid Pulllinger wrote:

>The man in question was Beowulf Cooper, a government entomologist and
>enthusiastic beekeeper.  He died suddenly from a heart attack in 1982 and
>the book mentioned above was compiled after his death by a Mr Philip
>Denwood from the mass of material he left behind.  In 1964, after meeting
>with several leading beekeepers he formed the Village Bee Breeders
>Association, whose object was "the conservation, restoration, study,
>selection and improvement of strains of honeybees of native or near-native
>type suitable for Britain and Ireland. ...>

Thanks, Sid, that was the author I had in mind.  His book was extremely
interesting, and it is fortunate that Mr. Denwood was able to undertake the
task of completing the work.

 One of the most fascinating aspects of the book regarding the British bee
was the examination of bee longevity vs. merely prolific tendencies.  In
other words, instead of having huge populous colonies, there was a tendency
in some British stock to have longer-living individuals.  So with smaller,
more manageable colonies, the net result in work/nectar gathering would be
similar.

Additional emphasis was placed on the advantages of a less-prolific bee
which would not use up stores excessively (in raising too much brood), and
which would thrive in a single-brood-chamber hive.

Of particular interest, too, was the topic of SUPERCEDURE vs. SWARMING,
meaning that some British stock appeared to produce queen cells and just
*replace* the queen, instead of swarming.  That would be an extremely
useful trait for which to breed.

Anyone doing special breeding-work for trait selection would find a wealth
of information in Mr. Cooper's book.  Unfortunately it is probably not
widely available in North America, but I believe BIBBA does still offer it.


(Note that the BIBBA name (formerly Village Bee Breeders Assn.) was
recently changed.)
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Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 10:26:26 -0600
Reply-To:     allend@internode.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <allend@[204.209.166.19]>
From:         Allen Dick <allend@internode.net>
Organization: The Beekeepers
Subject:      Longevity
In-Reply-To:  <v03020900afc064335d17@[132.236.236.21]>
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>  One of the most fascinating aspects of the book regarding the British bee
> was the examination of bee longevity vs. merely prolific tendencies.  In
> other words, instead of having huge populous colonies, there was a tendency
> in some British stock to have longer-living individuals.  So with smaller,
> more manageable colonies, the net result in work/nectar gathering would be
> similar.

I have wondered about this.

In favour of the more long lived bees would be better wintering and less
food consumption, however there are drawbacks if there is an accompanying
reduction in brood rearing rates.

Unless such bees were very resistant to diseases and pests, and more
robust and less susceptible to damage in the field from mechanical
hazards, wearing out body parts, and things like pesticides and predators,
they would not prosper or produce  as well as less long-lived and more
fecund bees  in heavy and drawn out flows, since the attrition would mount
and reduce the force over time.

Granted, in areas with late, short and light flows, this is not the
problem it would be here in Western Canada.

To me, the ideal is a bee that has a long individual lifespan, yet can be
induced to raise large numbers of young bees at appropriate times.  For
this reason the Italian was traditionally the favourite of US package
producers, and the Carniolan has become very popular in Western Canada
since wintering has become very necessary.

The Carniolan has the reputation of being conservative in the fall and
winter, yet building up rapidly  from small winter populations in the
spring.  They also have a reportedly a longer lifespan than many bees.

The Italian has a rep for going full out all the time.  This
characteristic makes it a bit tougher to winter here since they have a
tendancy to raise brood in the coldest months, which makes them
vulnerable to cold,  and to eat up a lot of stores which can leave them
starved and suffering from pollen depletion.  If they do come through --
and they will do so in doubles if well fed in the fall -- they will have
the huge populations that make splitting a pleasure, compared to some
other bees.

We are tending to Italians, however do have a large number of Carniolan
type too.

Allen
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 16:18:44 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         James D Satterfield <biojdsx@panther.Gsu.EDU>
Subject:      Top Bar Hive Beekeeping
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The tbh website at

                      http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm

continues to be visited quite often...more than 1,000 visits since the
counter was installed on March 12th.

I have been corresponding with several who have set up tbh's and are
recording their experiences in narratives and with photographs.  I would
expect to be able to post some of these to the site eventually.  There are
several things that I want to add, and some photos to improve...but with
the busy times of beekeeping upon me, it will be a while before I get
around to it.  My 18 tbh's at Canton are doing well as are my 5-bar nucs
and queen mating nucs.  The seven hives I had at Ellijay have all been
cleaned out by the now-happy bears in the area. :)

Now, some information of particular interest to the beekeepers in the SE
USA:

The South Carolina Beekeeper's Association will be a meeting at Clemson,
SC on July 17, 18, and 19, 1997.  Registration and sessions will be in the
P&AS Building on campus.  I don't know all of the events and sessions, but
I do know that Dr. Wyatt Mangum will be presenting a workshop on
"Beekeeping with Kenya Top Bar Hives."  I heard his presentation last year
at the Young Harris, GA meeting, and he is superb.  He will also be
presenting lectures on "Queen Cell Biology", and the "Biology of Queen
Introduction".  These sessions are on Friday and Saturday if I understood
correctly.


The annual beekeeping institute at Young Harris College, GA is coming up
this month, June 20, and 21st.  It looks as if there will be an excellent
slate of speakers and workshops again this year.

Best wishes to all of you in your endeavors worldwide as we share our
common interest in honeybees and biology.

Cordially yours,

Jim

  ----------------------------------------------------------------
  |  James D. Satterfield        |  E-Mail: jsatt@gsu.edu        |
  |  258 Ridge Pine Drive        --------------------------------|
  |  Canton, GA 30114, USA        Canton is about 40 mi/64 km    |
  |  Telephone (770) 479-4784     north of Altanta, Georgia USA  |
  |                                                              |
  | TBH Beekeeping Website: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm |
  ----------------------------------------------------------------
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 16:01:04 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Suzanne & Greg Ircink <samngreg@nwi.net>
Subject:      Newbee in Wenatchee
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Is there a beekeeper in the Wenatchee, Washington area that wouldn't mind a
novice spectator (no hives & no nukes) watch him/her work his/her hives?  I
would like to see what it is that you all are so interested in doing.
Thanks

Greg Ircink
(509) 664-6450
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 19:17:58 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Eugene Makovec <EMakovec@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Carniolans vs. Italians

I'm a 2nd year beekeeper -- started with a hive of Italians last year, and
decided to try Carniolans (hybrids from Georgia) this year.  I have noticed
some interesting differences between the two:

1)  The Carniolans don't know the meaning of the word propolis.  They use
very little compared to the Italians, who glue everything so tightly you
practically need a pick-ax to get in.

2)  They make up for it with honeycomb.  They've waxed the frames in the top
box to the tops of those in the bottom box.  Since I put on an excluder and
super, they've even waxed the excluder to the frames below.

3)  Originally, I was amazed at how friendly these bees were.  Not anymore.
 Since they've built their honeycomb in all the open spaces, I can't get in
to take a look without destroying their handiwork, killing larvae, etc.

Has anyone else made similar observations?  This is very frustrating.

Otherwise, they're doing fine.  They built up very fast,  and I'll probably
get honey soon.  But I've decided to just leave them to their own devices
otherwise. I'm tired of being stung.

Eugene Makovec
Kirlwood, MO
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 20:25:58 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         bartlett <bartlett@eagle1.eaglenet.com>
Subject:      bees
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                Today in southern Maryland, USA, the sun came back and
                 the wind died down.  The bees came out to catch the
end of the honey          flow here.  It was just time to sit and watch
for awhile.  The bees flying in and out with their loads.  And why do I
find this so facinating to watch???
I still don't know after 20 some years, but I do.
               billy bee
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 20:46:04 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Paul Basehore <silvrfox@oklahoma.net>
Subject:      Re: Carniolans vs. Italians
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At 07:17 PM 6/8/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm a 2nd year beekeeper -- started with a hive of Italians last year, and
>decided to try Carniolans (hybrids from Georgia) this year.  I have noticed
>some interesting differences between the two:
>

>
>Otherwise, they're doing fine.  They built up very fast,  and I'll probably
>get honey soon.  But I've decided to just leave them to their own devices
>otherwise. I'm tired of being stung.
>
>Eugene Makovec
>Kirlwood, MO
>


Eugene you might get a honey maker suit from Mann Lake. I to did not care
for getting stung all the time and now I work all 10 hives and nuckes
without a 1 sting. Much moore enjoyable. Since I have never aquired the art
of the soft touch wile working the bees it was the only way for me not to
mention alot faster, not that I'm not careful but the suit lets me
concentrate on what I'm doing (grafting etc.) rather then being stung
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 22:30:24 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Midnite Bee <midnitebee@cybertours.com>
Subject:      Inspector's Report/Editor's Corner/Maine Beekeeping
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www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Greetings!
  The recent Bee Inspector's report has been added to the web page. Tony
has reports on infestations and warnings for "concoctions"(mineral oil and
vegetable oil). A must read!!!
   Bill Truesdell,the "Editor" of the "Bee Line", has a most interesting
article about his "Dead Bee Hive".
    Personal thanks to Bill,for allowing me to publish his article.

          Midnitebee(Herb)
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 23:28:56 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Conrad Sigona <conrad@ntcnet.com>
Subject:      Re: Inspector's Report/Editor's Corner/Maine Beekeeping
In-Reply-To:  <199706090227.WAA09623@hitchhike.cybertours.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

> www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
> Greetings!
>   The recent Bee Inspector's report has been added to the web page. Tony
> has reports on infestations and warnings for "concoctions"(mineral oil and
> vegetable oil). A must read!!!

There is no mention of mineral oil. It speaks of vegetable oil
concoctions with essential oils and how the aromatics and botanicals
may interfere with the bees' communication mechanism. Mineral oil is
neither an aromatic nor a botanical.

Conrad Sigona
conrad@ntcnet.com
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 12:19:19 GMT+0100
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Anthony Morgan <Anthony@iet.hist.no>
Organization: HiST/AIN/IET
Subject:      Re: Longevity
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    Allen Dick writes:

> The Carniolan has the reputation of being conservative in the fall and
> winter, yet building up rapidly  from small winter populations in the
> spring.  They also have a reportedly a longer lifespan than many
> bees.

One of our hives of Carniolans when fetched back from the heather
(damp coastal air seems to be necessary for our heather to have
usable amounts of nectar) had superceded their queen and although we
were certain that she was a virgin we overwintered the hive as per
normal. Absolutely all the heather honey was taken in mid-Sept
(problems with digestive wastes otherwise) and the hive given
sugar syrup for the winter. At this time there was NO brood.

After a long, cold, wet spring the hives came to life again and
examination showed that the queen was indeed a virgin, producing
prodigous quantities of drone brood. She was duly dispatched (a job I
hate doing) and two frames of eggs moved in from our strongest hive.
A well formed queen cell was produced (may have been more than one, we
stopped interfering as soon as we saw the first) and has duly hatched
and mated and is now laying quite well.

It is now June 9th., the hive is still well populated and working
away at fetching pollen and nectar. I find this amazing and had fully
expected the hive to dwindle long before the queen was "up and going".

The vast majority of the foraging force currently working away
hatched before the second week of Sept last year!!!!!!

Aren't bees wonderful creatures?

Cheers Tony,
Trondheim 63-26 N 10-45 E
------------------------------------------------------
Anthony N Morgan,
Forsteammanuensis
Institutt for Elektroteknikk
Hogskolen i Sor-Trondelag
N-7005 Trondheim, Norway
Tlf. 73 55 96 04
Fax. 73 55 95 81
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 08:12:46 EDT
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Robert E Neely <neely-bee@juno.com>
Subject:      Re: bees

billy-bee
After fifty-one years, ME TOO!
neely-bee
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 13:56:59 +0200
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         F Hogenboom <F.Hogenboom.Pharm@med.vu.nl>
Subject:      varroa and thymol
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Dear Bee-friends,
One and a half year ago I caused some commotion on this list. I reported
about 'Thymol', with which you could fight against the parasitic varroa mites
of honeybees.
Now it's time to let you hear from me again, although not much has changed.
For the wintertime the honeybee-colonies receive 4 times 2 grams of powdered
Thymol. First I give a few well-directed puffs of smoke (the smoker is filled
with tobacco) under the innercover to prepare the bees I'm still alive. I
wait a minute before I take away the innercover. 2 grams of powdered Thymol
are distributed directly on the topbars of the frames. Sprayed on some bees
or between the frames seems no problem. It may be helpfull to yourself to add
two or more grams of powdered sugar and using a tea-strainer. Whatever you do
the bees will roar their indignation, but they make no reprisals.
This won't cost you more than one dollar per colony per 4 treatments!
You can do it in a few seconds and the preparation time is as long as the
weighing of 2 grams Thymol will take you. Last autumn in my colonies even
three treatments with one gram Thymol were sufficient.
So up till now this method has been succesfull in my bee colonies (Apis
mellifera mellifera, the european Dark Bee). However, this succes (3 seasons)
is up little scientific value, since as a poor hobby-beekeeper I only have
two colonies at my disposal. For me that's more than enough, because I
consume all the honey myself. Therefore, neighbours are stung by my bees, I
eagerly offer them a jar of honey. Surprisingly, they let them sting very
often: I think I know why.
Best regards,
Francois Hogenboom
F.Hogenboom.Pharm@med.vu.nl
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 23:11:55 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Box1812@AOL.COM
Subject:      bee question

How do I get rid of a bumblebee hive in my garage without using pesticides?
Any organic way?
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 22:35:57 +0000
Reply-To:     jdalexa@widtech.com
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <jdalexa@his.com>
From:         John Alexander <jdalexa@WIDTECH.COM>
Subject:      BeeChat Guest Speaker
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1 July 1997 - 8:00 PM EST BeeChat is pleased to announce
 Dr Pedro Rodrigues as our guest speaker.  Point your browser to:

http://www.widtech.com/beechat/

Born in Puerto Rico on 15 January 1929, Dr Rodrigues received
his PHD in Veterinary Medicine in 1962 from the University of
Pennsylvania. Dr Rodrigues is a 4th generation beekeeper and
has been an active beekeeper since childhood. He has spent the
past 11 years studying Varroa mites   and recently published his
findings of research into Varroa control utilizing food grade mineral
oil.

Join Dr. Rodrigues on BeeChat on 1 July 1997 at 8:00 PM EST with
your questions and comments.

For more information about BeeChat, see the general information
section of the BeeChat homepage at:

http://www.widtech.com/beechat/

BeeChat is a free service for the beekeeping community.  No
commercial advertising or solicitation please.

John Alexander
WIDTECH
=========================================================================
Date:         Sun, 8 Jun 1997 22:00:53 +0000
Reply-To:     jdalexa@widtech.com
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <jdalexa@his.com>
From:         John Alexander <jdalexa@WIDTECH.COM>
Subject:      Re: bees
In-Reply-To:  <9706090021.AA08415@eagle1.eaglenet.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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How's your honey flow been?  I'm in Beltsville and it seems pretty
well not so good.  No surplus to speak of for me.

John Alexander
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 6 Jun 1997 13:52:05 -1000
Reply-To:     hilodon@fan.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Don Tinker <hilodon@FAN.NET>
Subject:      Re: Ants
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Dursban granules spread on the groung around the hive stand will control
the ants for a while.

Don Tinker
hilodon@fan.net
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 6 Jun 1997 17:52:57 -0700
Reply-To:     dronebee@pilot.infi.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "Dr. Pedro Rodriguez" <dronebee@PILOT.INFI.NET>
Organization: InfiNet
Subject:      Re: Mineral Oil for Bee Mites Treatment
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

T.V. Fischer wrote:

> Dr. Rodriguez -
>
> I received a copy of your post regarding the use of mineral oil in the
>
> treatment of mites, and I thank you for the extensive time and effort
> you put into this study.  This obviously was done for the benefit of
> beekeepers, not commercial interests, as I assume that the proportion
> of
> food grade mineral oil going to the beekeeping industry is miniscule
> compared to its overall usage.

     Dear Ted:Answer:
  I agree with you. It is best that I post the answers to your question
through Bee-L in order that
others with similar questions may benefit from them.

Answer:
            You are absolutely correct. I have funded the cost of eleven
years studying bee mites.  My reward is that of working with my
life-long devotion, the honey bee and recognition of the threat of bee
mites to honey bees and hence to humanity.

Answer:
     My work as posted on Bee-L represents a very much abbreviated
sample of
the data collected during eleven years of study.  It is meant for
beekeepers world-wide, including tropical countries that practice
yearlong beekeeping.  It is only logical that bees can not be subjected
to the stress of opening their hives during the cold months of the
winter.  On the other hand, there are special circumstances  even in
temperate climate countries (like our southern hemisphere).  I for one,
did not open my hives in the months of December and January.  However, I
started using oil as soon as the queens started laying in late February
and I live in Virginia (USA).

> I have a few questions regarding your methods, which may be of
> interest
> to others as well.  You might rather reply to the Bee-L if you deem
> these of more general concern.
>
> 1) Why is the oil applied throughout the winter?  I can understand
> giving it in late fall and early winter when the queen pauses in her
> egg
> laying, and the mites are completely unprotected by brood cells.  But
> is
> it really necessary to continue from then on until spring.  Where
> would
> the reinfestation with mites come from in midwinter to spring?  It
> would
> almost seem to me that opening the hives continually throughout the
> winter would be a hardship worse than the few mites which might
> survive.
>
> 2) Many brood frames have a coating of beeswax, sometimes extensive,
> on
> their upper surfaces.  Must this be scraped off whenever the oil is
> applied, or can the oil be put over this wax?

Answer:

>         Yes.    I find that the wax on the top bars does not have any
> influence on the application of the mineral oil.  At the beginning I
> did scrape the wax off but gave up because it was too labor intensive
> (time consuming) As it turned out, it did not make any difference.

>

> 3) Using the wax paper strip method, how hard is it to get the strip
> to
> slide down between frames, especially when this space is well filled
> with bees?  I ask this because when using Apistan strips sometimes the
>
> strip must be gently pushed down between the bees, and wax paper seems
>
> to be much less firm.

Answer:              It is not difficult at all.  I folded the strips on
the of my uncapping knife   and slid them in between frames with
relative ease.  I gave up that practice because I found that it was
taking up too much time.  I wanted to find ways thatwould be convenient
to all beekeepers, including commercial operations.

     I agree with you! It is very hard work indeed.  I now have three
colonies with six honey supers and two with six honey supers (each has
two brood chambers) and it is hellish (to say the least) to take those
down.  However, I don't want any factor to interfere with my treatment!
I apply oil to all the top bars in all supers and brood chambers.  I
have made adaptations which make my work relatively faster and easier
than one would think.

> 4) When in summer supers are placed and filled with honey a lot of
> work
> will surely be required to move them to get at the brood chambers.  Do
>
> you have any recommendations here, such as tipping the hive backward
> as
> a whole?  Or how do you get to the brood nest easily?  Also, at this
> time the colony will be packed with bees.  I assume extensive smoke
> will
> be neccessary to move bees away from the frame tops so that the oil
> can
> be applied.  Do you have any hints or experience that can be of
> general
> help here?

> Answer:
>        I have prepared a board (out of bakelite) with slits that
> coincide with the top bars (thus keeping the bees below) which allows
> faster application of the oil,  no stinging, and little use of smoke.
> It is not easy work.  I hope that in time someone will develop a
> mechanical method for applying the oil in order that it wont be such a
> back breaking operation and that it could be feasible for commercial
> operations. I am sure that someone will!

> Thank you for your consideration of these items.
>
> Ted Fischer

  Thanks for your questions.  I welcome all the questions and input that
all of you may have.  Beekeepers (and other related personnel) working
together will lick bee mites eventually.  Let stay together!
Best regards.
Dr. Rodriguez
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 09:11:34 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         bartlett <bartlett@eagle1.eaglenet.com>
Subject:      No surplus honey
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

To John  Alexander,
     John, I'm in southern Maryland USA, not too far south of you.  I
guess the
cold,wet, windy Spring got us this year and the honey flow is almost
over for our area.  Maybe next year , huh?
      billy bee
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 09:39:38 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Conrad Sigona <conrad@ntcnet.com>
Subject:      Re: bee question
In-Reply-To:  <970608231013_117258604@emout06.mail.aol.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

> How do I get rid of a bumblebee hive in my garage without using pesticides?
> Any organic way?

I didn't know bumblebees made hives. I always thought they lived in holes
in the ground.

Conrad Sigona
conrad@ntcnet.com
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 10:00:10 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Midnite Bee <midnitebee@cybertours.com>
Subject:      Re: Inspector's Report/Editor's Corner/Maine Beekeeping
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Greetings!
 I have been reading too many posts about "mineral oil".
Thousand pardons about the misleading "intro".
Good article, eh?

Midnitebee(Herb)
----------
> From: Conrad Sigona <conrad@ntcnet.com>
> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
> Subject: Re: Inspector's Report/Editor's Corner/Maine Beekeeping
> Date: Sunday, June 08, 1997 11:28 PM
>
> > www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
> > Greetings!
> >   The recent Bee Inspector's report has been added to the web page.
Tony
> > has reports on infestations and warnings for "concoctions"(mineral oil
and
> > vegetable oil). A must read!!!
>
> There is no mention of mineral oil. It speaks of vegetable oil
> concoctions with essential oils and how the aromatics and botanicals
> may interfere with the bees' communication mechanism. Mineral oil is
> neither an aromatic nor a botanical.
>
> Conrad Sigona
> conrad@ntcnet.com
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 09:49:25 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         RICHARD BARNES <rbarnes@halnet.com>
Subject:      Re: bee question
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

To get rid of the bumble bees, get rid of the hive.  The bumble bees are
using a "pile" of something in your garage that has a cavity.  If you get
rid of the hive source, the bees will probably move on.  In Oklahoma, we get
a lot of bumble bees in grass piles or compost piles because the ground is
too hard for the bees to dig holes and our winters are not harsh enough to
force all the bees to use holes in the ground.

In your case, the bees are happy to be indoors away from the cold winter and
the garage is providing shade from the sun in the summer.

Richard Barnes


At 09:39 AM 6/9/97 -0500, you wrote:
>> How do I get rid of a bumblebee hive in my garage without using pesticides?
>> Any organic way?
>
>I didn't know bumblebees made hives. I always thought they lived in holes
>in the ground.
>
>Conrad Sigona
>conrad@ntcnet.com
>
>
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 11:35:40 -0500
Reply-To:     beeworks@muskoka.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <beeworks@mail.muskoka.net>
From:         David Eyre <beeworks@muskoka.net>
Organization: The Bee Works
Subject:      Re: Carniolans vs. Italians
In-Reply-To:  <970608191757_-127752029@emout10.mail.aol.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

On  8 Jun 97 at 19:17, Eugene Makovec wrote:

> 1)  The Carniolans don't know the meaning of the word propolis.
> They use very little compared to the Italians, who glue everything
> so tightly you practically need a pick-ax to get in.
>
> 2)  They make up for it with honeycomb.  They've waxed the frames in
> the top box to the tops of those in the bottom box.  Since I put on
> an excluder and super, they've even waxed the excluder to the frames
> below.
>
> 3)  Originally, I was amazed at how friendly these bees were.  Not
> anymore.
>  Since they've built their honeycomb in all the open spaces, I can't
>  get in
> to take a look without destroying their handiwork, killing larvae,
> etc.

Please don't blame the inadequacy of the hive builder on the bees.
Bees are 'programed' to either fill excess space with propolis or
burr comb. No space, no burr comb or propolis!
        Some bees produce vast quantites of propolis others very little,
some are good wax builders, some or not, it all comes down to
breeding. I have Italians who don't seem to know what propolis is,
and I also have some bees who really don't like working foundation!!
My advise, try a different breeder.


*******************************************
The Bee Works, 9 Progress Dr, Unit 2,
Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1
Phone/fax  705-326-7171
David Eyre, Owner.
http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks
********************************************
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 12:33:45 -0300
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "Ing. Gaivironsky" <gaivi@OVERNET.COM.AR>
Subject:      Help
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Dear BEE-L subscribers:

I didn't receive any message from de list since one month or more.
Please, would you tell me if there are any problem with it?
I had a trouble with my P.C. and I lost the connection.
Thank you very much. Best regards,
                                        Lidia Gaivironsky
Lidia Gaivironsky
e.mail: gaivi@overnet.com.ar
Buenos Aires, Republica Argentina
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 09:23:38 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Ingrid Chesnick <chestnic@CVN.NET>
Organization: B&I
Subject:      Beehive on X-FILES
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Anybody see X-FILES last night? With the huge behive building?


I've Gone to beekeeper conventions with hive 10x as big as that. The
real kicker was it WAS ONY 10% DRONE COMB AND ONLY ONE QUEEN. The hive
had  700,000,000 bees!!!{give or take a million or two}


PS sorry about double messages my sister put her name on the email
address
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 09:20:59 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Ingrid Chesnick <chestnic@CVN.NET>
Organization: B&I
Subject:      behive on X-FILES
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Anybody see X-FILES last night? With the huge behive building?


I've Gone to beekeeper conventions with hive 10x as big as that. The
real kicker was it WAS ONY 10% DRONE COMB AND ONLY ONE QUEEN. The hive
had  700,000,000 bees!!!{give or take a million or two}
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 09:14:27 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Ingrid Chesnick <chestnic@CVN.NET>
Organization: B&I
Subject:      Re: bee question
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

try a garden hose or a spayer with soapy water in it
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 12:48:52 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Ian Watson <realtor@niagara.com>
Subject:      Re: bees
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi all

We are quite surprised that we are getting a surplus already.  Most of
mine, and my brother Robert's hives have almost 75% of one super full.

Ian Watson      ian@gardener.com
St. Catharines, Canada   (near Niagara Falls)
real estate agent    gardener    homebrewer    baritone
beekeeper---> 7 colonies, 3 nucs on order
----------
> From: John Alexander <jdalexa@WIDTECH.COM>
> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
> Subject: Re: bees
> Date: Sunday, June 08, 1997 6:00 PM
>
> How's your honey flow been?  I'm in Beltsville and it seems pretty
> well not so good.  No surplus to speak of for me.
>
> John Alexander
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 13:56:31 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Albert W Needham <awneedham@juno.com>
Subject:      Re: bees

On Sun, 8 Jun 1997 20:25:58 -0400 bartlett <bartlett@eagle1.eaglenet.com>
writes:
> And why do I ind this so facinating to watch???
>I still don't know after 20 some years, but I do.

Billy:

Some things are simply good "karma", not to be
figured out!

Al,

Offering 'Unique' Honey Bee Artwork On Caps,
------- T-Shirts, Tank Tops & Sweatshirts --------
-------------Honey Bees & Doktor Finkle-------------
------ http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ------
awneedham@juno.com.............Scituate,MA,USA
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 15:07:15 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Ian Watson <realtor@niagara.com>
Subject:      Re: disappearing bees...
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Al

Yes, that makes sense.  As far as the hive with two queens, I looked inside
yesterday and there is brood already, I guess from the first swarm's queen
and there was so evidence of the second one....Maybe she and her bees left
and went somewhere else?...

Anyhow, Thanks,

Ian Watson      ian@gardener.com
St. Catharines, Canada   (near Niagara Falls)
real estate agent    gardener    homebrewer    baritone
beekeeper---> 7 colonies, 3 nucs on order

----------
> From: Albert W Needham <awneedham@juno.com>
> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
> Subject: Re: disappearing bees...
> Date: Saturday, June 07, 1997 9:14 PM
>
> Ian:
>
> Addendum to below:
>
> Perhaps the other half of the big swarm that you put elsewhere
> had their queen in it and so they went where they belonged. You
> actually had two queens in one hive and one in the other (the
> small swarm). The real question is what happened in the hive
> with the two queens? Remember you said you took half of
> the large swarm and mixed it in with another swarm?
> ...........................
>
> Those that you saw all marching in, obviously didn't
> care for the accomodations, and they all marched
> out for elsewheres. :-) They found your Three Star
> Rating misleading!
>
> Al,
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 7 Jun 1997 20:14:13 -0400 Ian Watson <realtor@niagara.com>
> writes:
> >Hi all
> >
> >This being swarm season, I got a call that my bees, strangely enough,
> >had
> >swarmed.  Fancy that...;)
> >I found a rather small swarm on a small tree about 20 feet from the
> >colonies, and a very large one about 40 feet away, 20 feet up in an
> >old
> >pear tree.  Since I only had one empty hive with me, I hived the small
> >one
> >and then roughly split the large one between the small swarm and
> >another
> >swarm that I had picked up last week.  Now when I was out at the
> >Beeyard
> >this afternoon to feed them, I noticed that the hive with the small
> >swarm
> >and part of the larger swarm seemed to have only the small swarm in
> >it, or
> >even less.  There are only enough bees to not quite cover two frames.
> >My
> >brother Robert found the queen, so that's one good thing.  Now, the
> >question is this: Where did all those extra bees go that I dumped in
> >front
> >of the hive?...I saw them all march in, so I know they were there at
> >one
> >time.
> >It's a mystery to me...
> >
> >Any comments would be appreciated
> >
> >Ian Watson      ian@gardener.com
> >St. Catharines, Canada   (near Niagara Falls)
> >real estate agent    gardener    homebrewer    baritone
> >beekeeper---> 7 colonies, 3 nucs on order
> >
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 13:22:14 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Adony Melathopoulos <melathop@sfu.ca>
Subject:      Re: Beehive on X-FILES
In-Reply-To:  <339C03DA.3CDC@cvn.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Mon, 9 Jun 1997, Ingrid Chesnick wrote:

> Anybody see X-FILES last night? With the huge behive building?
>

Too bad most of the bees on the x-files set were in fact Thompson raisons
glued to the comb.


***********************************
** Adony P. Melathopoulos *********
*** Center for Pest Management ****
**** Simon Fraser University ******
***** Burnaby, British Columbia ***
****** Canada, V5A-1S6 ************
***********************************

Tel : (604) 291-4163
Fax : (604) 291-3496
e-mail : melathop@sfu.ca

"The pursuit of agriculture promotes the strength of the mind
 as well as the body"
         - Rev. John L. Blake, 1853
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 07:40:25 +0100
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Paul Walton <Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk>
Subject:      Re: Yorkshire Black Bees
In-Reply-To:  <339851A0.28CC@virgin.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0

In article <339851A0.28CC@virgin.net>, "luichart.woollens@virgin.net"
<luichart.woollens@virgin.net> writes
<snip>

> If so then the bees found in the excavation would be
>Italian/Danish/Black crosses!

You are assuming that any bees that were imported survived long enough
to mate with local bees.
--
Paul Walton
Email   : Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk
Toddington, Bedfordshire, England.
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 19:56:57 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         bartlett <bartlett@eagle1.eaglenet.com>
Subject:      Essencial oils
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

  There has been a lot of small talk on essencial oils, but nothing
really
specific.  It was mentioned that it might interfer with the bee's
communications.  Well we ceretainly have heard alot about the bees
     using the pheromones for several things in the hive.  From the
Nasannof glands to the queen substance.  What if all the bees smelled
alike, like spearmint?  The mineral oil maybe the better thing???

          billy bee  Southern Md USA
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 19:56:58 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Albert W Needham <awneedham@juno.com>
Subject:      Re: bee question

On Sun, 8 Jun 1997 23:11:55 -0400 Box1812@AOL.COM writes:
>How do I get rid of a bumblebee hive in my garage without using
>pesticides?
>Any organic way?
>

In response to Conrad's comment-they could in my garage
because it's a dirt floor :-). The Bumble Queens scout out my garage
regularly every spring.

As I have stated once before on the List, why do you want
to kill a Bumble Bee(s)? This business of us humans wanting
to kill everything simply because it is there is certainly not
a positive statement that supports our alleged belief that
we are a 'superior species' as some would have us all
believe. Long after we have done ourselevs in via
pollution, etc., guess who is going to have the last
laugh ? ..... the lowly cockroach ... who was here before us
and undoubtedly will be here long after the human species
is exticnct !

Bumbles are harmless! They don't bother anyone and you
have to go aways to get one to sting you! They go about their
business calmly and they will be gone in the Fall !

If you want to kill Bumbles simply because they are there,
what are you doing keeping HoneyBees? Because they
give you something in return? Actually they give you
nothing, you have to steal it.

Al,

Offering 'Unique' Honey Bee Artwork On Caps,
------- T-Shirts, Tank Tops & Sweatshirts --------
-------------Honey Bees & Doktor Finkle-------------
------ http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ------
awneedham@juno.com.............Scituate,MA,USA
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 21:29:11 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Fernihough <billfern@istar.ca>
Subject:      Re: Help
Comments: cc: gaivi@OVERNET.COM.AR
In-Reply-To:  <199706091533.MAA04618@carpincho.overnet.com.ar>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Lidia, I don't recall seeing a note from you on the list, why not try
again, or send it to me, I'll try to help.
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 21:07:31 -0800
Reply-To:     beeman@Alaska.NET
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Tom & Carol Elliott <beeman@Alaska.NET>
Organization: Home
Subject:      Re: bee question
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Box1812@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> How do I get rid of a bumblebee hive in my garage without using pesticides?
> Any organic way?

If they are in anything moveable you can just pick it up and move it a
long ways away.  Probably best to do so at night.  I moved a colony
living in a piece of fiberglass insulation that way.  I would guess you
would want to get enough distance to avoid the workers returning to your
garage.
--
"Test everything.  Hold on to the good."  (1 Thessalonians 5:21)

Tom Elliott
Eagle River, Alaska
U.S.A.
beeman@alaska.net
=========================================================================
Date:         Mon, 9 Jun 1997 09:20:35 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "Kerry Clark of AGF 784-2225 fax (604) 784 2299"
              <KCLARK@galaxy.gov.bc.ca>
Subject:      AFB scales in UV light
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII

   When I found a "black light" ultraviolet light/magnifier in the
   left-over bee inspectors equipment box, and asked about it, I was told
   that yes AFB scales DO fluoresce (is there a better word?) in the black
   light, but so do some honeys and pollen. With too many false positives,
   it was not found to be a feasible inspection method. The idea was that
   thousands of unoccupied frames might be inspected quickly during
   storage.

   Alternatives? abandon the concept, or consider training a dog to detect
   the odour.



   Kerry Clark, Apiculture Specialist
   B.C. Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food
   1201 103 Ave
   Dawson Creek B.C.
        V1G 4J2  CANADA          Tel (250) 784-2231     fax (250) 784-2299
   INTERNET kclark@galaxy.gov.bc.ca
=========================================================================
Date:         Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:44:02 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "<Matthew J Allan>HELP" <MattAllan@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: propolis and food preservation

Good day.

A letter has come to me as editor of Bee Biz requesting help. Usually I can
direct queries towards a solution, but this time I don't know which way to
turn. The query comes from a researcher in Ecuador, who is working on
preserving fruit and vegetables using propolis. Anybody got any clue about
background information?

Regards

Matthew J Allan
=========================================================================
Date:         Tue, 10 Jun 1997 19:52:17 +-100
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net>
Subject:      Re: Yorkshire Black Bees
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

----------
Subject:        Re: Yorkshire Black Bees

In article <339851A0.28CC@virgin.net>, "luichart.woollens@virgin.net"
<luichart.woollens@virgin.net> writes
<snip>

> If so then the bees found in the excavation would be
>Italian/Danish/Black crosses!

You are assuming that any bees that were imported survived long enough
to mate with local bees.
--
Paul Walton

Hi Paul,

If the Romans did bring bees to York then I think that it is almost =
certain that interbreeding took place.  The Romans were there for about =
400 years.  Why do you think the Italian bees would not survive?  I =
think the question is whether the Romans brought their bees with them or =
not.  I believe the Romans were very keen on honey and used it a lot in =
cooking.  Did they have sugar at that time?  The analogy with the =
colonists is not very good as the countries they were trying to colonize =
did not have honey bees whereas I assume that bees existed in Britain =
before the Roman occupation.  Is there any evidence that bees were =
indigenous to Britain before that time?  There was a book written by Dr. =
Eva Crane,  The Archaeology of Beekeeping,  which I had a look at a few =
years ago.  If anyone out there has a copy perhaps they could look up =
and answer some of these questions. Perhaps Eva Crane might even respond =
if she reads this!

Harry
Scotland =20
=========================================================================
Date:         Tue, 10 Jun 1997 19:41:56 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Mike Worrell <MikeW54789@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Carniolans vs. Italians

I use the New World Carniolons from California.  Last year my pollination
partner with alll Hugo Carniolans introduced me to how ornery that breed can
be.,  My New Worlds are a calm and gentle bee while the Hugo's are the
meanest S.O.B.'s  I've ever run into.  I wouldn't  have them if they were the
last bee on earth.

Mike
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 13:55:00 +1300
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Barry Donovan <DonovanB@crop.cri.nz>
Subject:      Re: Dark bees from England
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

Peter Barrett wrote that dark bees from England were
imported into the North Island of New Zealand for the first
time in 1839, and they persisted in the centre of that island
as a pure strain. Yellow Italian bees were first imported about
50 years later.

I started beekeeping in the central North Island in the mid
1950's at age 12 when I began working on weekends for a
commercial beekeeper who kept Italian bees. To build my
own stocks I often collected swarms and removed wild hives
from trees etc. In areas of native bush the bees were almost
invariably black or near-black, and very prone to attack when
hives were worked. When hived they made beautiful white
cappings to honey combs, due apparently to a small air
space between the honey and the capping. In contrast Italian
cappings were much duller, and sometimes rather greasy in
appearance because the cappings sat right on the honey.
Finding queens of black hives was often difficult because the
bees would frequently rush to the corners of frames held up
for inspection and fall off in clumps. Beekeepers much
preferred the quieter Italians, so black or crossbred queens
were soon replaced with Italians. In general crosses between
black and Italian bees were thought to be more savage than
pure blacks.
The belief among beekeepers was that if Italians were not
mainted by human selection, the black bees would soon
take over. This was thought to be due to a greater flight
speed by black drones, which would mate with virgins before
and to the exclusion of yellow drones. True or not is
uncertain, but black bees were certainly dominant outside
managed hives.
The same situation prevails in the South Island of New
Zealand, where as Peter Barrett says in his 1995 book, the
first bees were imported in 1842. On the west coast where
the rainfall is very high on a narrow strip of bushed lowland
between high mountains and the sea, the wild bees are very
black-and very savage.  One dare not move within several
metres of a black colony for fear of attack.

Native bees of New Zealand of which there are about 28
species in the families Colletidae and Halictidae are all black
or near-black (apart from a few yellow spots on a few
species). It seems to me that the climate which is generally
quite changeable, often within a day, favours black, which
fosters rapid warming of bees after cloud and rain. This
selection factor could be responsible for the dominance of
black among our wild honey bees.

Peter Barrett, could you please send me your email address
as I have a question for you. - thanks.

Barry J. Donovan
Canterbury Agriculture and Science Centre
Lincoln
Private Bag Christchurch
New Zealand.
DonovanB@crop.cri.nz
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 21:39:08 +1000
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Paul & Sandra Roberts <psrobert@gil.com.au>
Subject:      Sterilisation of Hive equipment after American Foul Brood disease
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dear subscribers,

I am seeking some definitive infomation regarding the sterilization of hive
equipment after a foul brood infection. There has been a long held view
that heating the equipment will result in the death of the Bacillus spores.
What I am seeking is some research which supports this which will enable
our amatuer beekeeping club to put argument before the Queensland DPI that
this treatment is an effective solution to this problem.

Nick Wallingford from NZ has been good enough to track down a paper
prepared by Hansen and Rassmussen on this subject. This was prepared for an
international symposium in Gent Belgium in 1990(1?).

I would greatly appreciate any advice on the matter, particularly that
which is supported by hard research, or reference to any technical papers
which are readily available.

Thanking you in anticipation

Paul Roberts
Treasurer  -  Brisbane Amatuer Beekeeping Society
Australia
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 09:52:37 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "William Nelson@Aol.Com" <Apiarist@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Sterilization of Hive equipment after American Foul Brood
              disease

I'm not sure but I believe there was an article several years ago concerning
the use of radiation sterilization of bee equipment.  This is a published
scientific paper and was either in the American Bee Journal or the Bee
Culture magazine here in the US.  I believe that Dr Hunt at Purdue
University, LaFayette, IN. USA may know about this paper and could source it
for you or Dr. Keith Delaplane at the University of Georgia USA could source
it for you.

Also, I believe the State of Virginia in the USA may allow for ethylene oxide
sterilzation of bee equipment that is foul brood infected.  I would suggest
contacting the State of Virginia Agriculture Department concerning this
policy.  Ethylene Oxide, (ETO), is a toxic gas for humans and a carcinogen.
 It is also not so good for the atmosphere so companies are slowly getting
away from it for other sources of sterilization.

Radiation sterilization is used extensively by the medical device industry
and there are probably facilities in your country that could handle bee
equipment for sterilization.  It does not harm metal or wood equipment but
might harm some types of plastic.  Unlike ETO there are not residues to worry
about.  Both types of sterilization are relatively expensive, so you would
need to be saving a high monetary amount of contaminated equipment to make it
worthwhile.

Let me know how you fair on this good luck.

Bill Nelson
North Liberty, IN. USA
AKA: Apiarist@AOL.com
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 10:21:31 -0700
Reply-To:     mister-t@clinic.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Truesdell <mister-t@clinic.net>
Subject:      Did not rotate hive bodies
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Earlier this year some posts talked about not rotating hive bodies in
the spring but letting the queen work her way down. My bees came through
the winter in exceptional shape, no mites. So when I decided to rotate
hive bodies, four out of five already were in the bottom box, so I only
rotated the one hive. It is the only one that swarmed. All the others
are in the second super - and we are not even in the main clover honey
flow. The one that swarmed is still in the lower brood boxes. I realize
this is only one data point and may be the exception, so I will try it
again next year.
Bill Truesdell
Bath
=========================================================================
Date:         Tue, 10 Jun 1997 21:43:50 +0000
Reply-To:     jdalexa@widtech.com
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <jdalexa@his.com>
From:         John Alexander <jdalexa@WIDTECH.COM>
Subject:      Bumbles
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

My neighbor has a nest of bumbles in his lawn implements shed.
They are about three times the size of italian honeybees and
have a bright yellow thorax and black head and abdomen.
There don't seem to be any more than 30 or 40 of them judging from
the number that came out when we rattled the shed and then sound of
those that stayed within.

Anyone have any idea what kind these are?  He's inclined to let
them bee as long as they don't get too agressive (they seem pretty
docile)

John Alexander
Beltsville, MD


--VAA23372.865992516/mail.his.com--



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=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 12:00:27 -0500
Reply-To:     tvf@umich.edu
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "Theodore V. Fischer" <tvf@umich.edu>
Organization: UM Department of Anatomy and Cell Biology
Subject:      Bees working pretty good
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I also am amazed that I am getting surplus honey so early for this
area.  I put two supers on one spring split the beginning of June,
then a week later they needed another one.  Yesterday I looked and the
third super was already being capped.  Not bad for a split made and
requeened about six weeks ago!

Ted Fischer
Dexter, Michigan USA
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 14:56:51 -0700
Reply-To:     mister-t@clinic.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Truesdell <mister-t@clinic.net>
Subject:      Re: Sterilisation of Hive equipment after American Foul Brood
              disease
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Paul & Sandra Roberts wrote
> I am seeking some definitive infomation regarding the sterilization of hive
> equipment after a foul brood infection. There has been a long held view
> that heating the equipment will result in the death of the Bacillus spores.
> What I am seeking is some research which supports this which will enable
> our amatuer beekeeping club to put argument before the Queensland DPI that
> this treatment is an effective solution to this problem.

Maybe I am way off base, and would appreciate being set straight, but I
had AFB when I first started beekeeping and my first act with my bees
was to destroy the lot and burn all the frames. I did use the "chimney
fire" technique to scorch the hive and super bodies. Plus I used a
butane flame to get all the other parts not touched by the flame. I used
the hive bodies for about five years and no trace of AFB, but it still
bothered me that only a few spores of AFB are necessary to reinfect the
hive, so this year I torched the last of my old hive bodies.
Here in Maine, an ethylene oxide chamber was going to be used to clense
AFB infected hives, but the EPA is holding things up, and we may lose
it.
But what bothers me, and I read it often as a "treatment" for AFB is to
douse them with Terramycin and call it a day. I consider that a method
of postponing the inevitable. The spores are still there. It is like
treating your kids with massive doses of antibiotics to treat bacterial
infections caused by bad water and never clean up the water.
I realize that the expense in destroying equipment is high, but I have
seen beekeepers in our area try to use Terramycin to clean up hives and,
when they lose the hive to other factors (mites), the hive is robbed out
by another beekeepers bees. And the AFB which was supposedly gone, ended
up in the other beekeepers hives and he had to destroy them. And it
happened two years in a row! So one bekeeper saved some money and the
other lost a lot.
I have read that AFB spores are still alive after 80+ years in
Beltsville. If so, it seems to me that it is irresponsible to do
anything other than burn until we have something to kill the spores
(Like ETO and irradiation) and not just treat the condition. I know if
our kids were involved, we would clean up the water and not keep feeding
them antibiotics.
(This is not a criticism of Paul & Sandra Robert's post, because they
are trying to kill the spores, which I agree with. My concern is as
stated- using terramycin to "cure" AFB.)
Bill Truesdell
Bath, ME
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 13:37:24 PDT
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         gary helriegel <baggins0@hotmail.com>
Subject:      beginner
Content-Type: text/plain

 Is there a beekeeper in the Littleton, CO area that will be able to
take on a 12-year old "apprentice"? i.e. to watch, help with tending
hives, etc.




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=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 13:43:11 PDT
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         gary helriegel <baggins0@hotmail.com>
Subject:      beginner
Content-Type: text/plain

Where could I get:
2 hive bodies w/ wired frames
2 honey supers w/ wired frames
1 bottom board
1 inner cover
1 telescoping outer cover w/ sheet metal top
1 smoker
1 hive tool
1 queen excluder (possibly)

pretty cheap? Must be in the Littleton, CO area. I can get bees
elsewhere.

-Baggins0



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=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 19:37:34 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Fernihough <billfern@istar.ca>
Subject:      Re: Sterilisation of Hive equipment after American Foul Brood
              disease
In-Reply-To:  <199706111138.VAA15832@iccu6.ipswich.gil.com.au>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Many beekeepers have reported on using a soldering torch to burn the frames
and inside of the hive for clean up, and others throw away the frames and
just do the hive boxes.

I looked into radiation once, and there is a good paper on it which has
been lost, but it can be done with heavy doses, but generally not available
to the public.
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 21:59:47 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         John M Thorp <hallelujah.honey.co@juno.com>
Subject:      People with too much time on their hands!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Comments: cc: TheKolonel@Top.Monad.Net, Micro@Top.Monad.Net, SCREASY@juno.com,
          MDROGOWSKI@aol.com, gfallon@nji.com, FOYBOY@GIL.NET,
          jwg6@cornell.edu, Dan4Songs@aol.com, Kellenbenz@aol.com,
          HeartsHomeFarm@juno.com, cfwc1@GIL.NET, MCKECHNIES@juno.com,
          southern1@mindspring.com, treym@bridge.net, BILLPO13@aol.com,
          jsatt@gsu.edu, cfwc2@GIL.NET, RTHORP@28BBL.WA.COM, beelady@olg.com,
          jwolf@az.com

I hope all of you guys like this. Some folks when lifes a lemon they make
lemonade,hope you do the same if you're coming up lemons. Blessings!
Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at<cfwc2@gil.net>

>>>HOLD THE DOWN ARROW KEY AND KEEP IT PRESSED.  THIS IS FUN!

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>>>
>>>
>>>THIS IS NOT A CHAIN LETTER, BUT PLEASE PASS THIS ON TO AS
>>MANY PEOPLE AS YOU CAN.  I WOULD LIKE TO BE RECOGNIZED FOR
>>MY WORK.....  THANX
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>This Particular Work of Art by:
>>>Alex Kubacki
>>>
>>
>>
>International Account
>Representative
>
>Zoom Telephonics, Inc.
>207 South St.
>Boston, MA 02111
>
>tel:  617.753.0506
>fax:  617.423.3923
=========================================================================
Date:         Wed, 11 Jun 1997 23:25:55 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Conrad Sigona <conrad@ntcnet.com>
Subject:      Re: People with too much time on their hands!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In-Reply-To:  <19970611.223855.12438.0.hallelujah.honey.co@juno.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

> >>>HOLD THE DOWN ARROW KEY AND KEEP IT PRESSED.  THIS IS FUN!

What's this nonsense doing on BEE-L?

Conrad Sigona
conrad@ntcnet.com
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 04:36:03 UT
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         S <Claremoor@msn.com>
Subject:      new beekeeper questions

I have 2 packages installed in April - they are doing great and raising lots
of brood.  My question is this:  do I need to scrape off the excess comb they
produce on the bottoms of the frames?  What about the queen cells?  And what
is the easiest and most efficient way to check the bottoms of the frames?
Today we finally had some warm weather, it has been a cool and cloudy spring.
I enjoy reading posts from all of you experienced and knowledgeable beekeepers
out there!
Thanks
Susan in St. Louis, MO
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 04:43:23 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         J Troyer <bkeep200@concentric.net>
Organization: Honey Hill Farm
Subject:      Re: new beekeeper questions
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Susan,

I suggest that you check your new hives to see if there is new larva,
eggs and a queen.  The queen might have died.  It is also possible that
queen cells are in a hive because the present queen is not laying and
must be superceded.  If that is the case, then removing queen cells
would prevent the bees from raising a new queen. Normally, healthy
queens destroy queen cells.

I don't bother removing excess comb from the bottoms of frames.  Bees do
what they want to do and frequent opening of the hive can be disruptive
to the colony.  Good luck in beekeeping!!!    JT
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 06:42:45 -0700
Reply-To:     mister-t@clinic.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Truesdell <mister-t@clinic.net>
Subject:      Re: People with too much time on their hands!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> > >>>HOLD THE DOWN ARROW KEY AND KEEP IT PRESSED.  THIS IS FUN!
>
> What's this nonsense doing on BEE-L?
>

Keeping some of us in a proper frame of mind. Don't you recall how some
people look at you when you say you keep bees. This helps confirm the
look.
hallelujah, John.
Bill Truesdell
Bath
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 07:37:10 -0600
Reply-To:     allend@internode.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <allend@[204.209.166.19]>
From:         Allen Dick <allend@internode.net>
Organization: The Beekeepers
Subject:      Repost: Best of Bee
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

How to get on Best of bee:

Send email to LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU saying SET BEE-L NOMAIL, and at
the same time send email to HoneyBee@systronix.net, saying JOIN
BESTOFBEE you@whatever.com (where 'you@whatever.com' is your the email
address to which you want the list to be sent).

Subscribing to Best of Bee will bring you only selected and edited
posts from BEE-L.  This is a reduction of 10 to 90% in mail flow
depending on the current quality of posts.  This option is best suited to
experienced or professional beekeepers who wish to avoid very basic
discussions, chatter, flames and tomfoolery but still track what is
happening on BEE-L.  There are currently 242 subscribers to Best of Bee.

For more information, send email to bees@systronix.net, saying
SEND BESTBEE in the subject line.  You will receive a text file in return.

For those who want to know more about the selection and editorial policies
of Best of Bee, send email to bees@systronix.net, saying SEND CRITERIA in
the subject line.
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 08:53:51 -0600
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         CR Johnson <cr_johnson@pobox.tbe.com>
Subject:      Re: People with too much tim

 6/12/97            8:52 AM

John,

Your
sick,  sick,  sick,  sick

--------------------------------------
Date: 6/11/97 9:48 PM
To: CR Johnson
From: Discussion of Bee Biology
!!! Original message was too large.
!!!
!!! It is contained in the enclosure whose name
!!! is the same as the subject of this message.
!!!
!!! A preview of the message follows:

I hope all of you guys like this. Some folks when lifes a lemon they make
lemonade,hope you do the same if you're coming up lemons. Blessings!
Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at<cfwc2@gil.net>

>>>HOLD THE DOWN ARROW KEY AND KEEP IT PRESSED.  THIS IS FUN!

>>>Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>> Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>  Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>   Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>    Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>     Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>      Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>       Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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>>>      Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>     Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>    Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>   Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>  Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>> Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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>>> Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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>>>   Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>    Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>     Hi Everybody!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 10:14:47 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Rory Stenerson <71762.1664@compuserve.com>
Subject:      Re: Beginner
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Wed, 11 Jun 1997 13:37:24 PDT
Gary Helriegel asks

"Is there a beekeeper in the Littleton, CO area that will be able to
take on a 12-year old "apprentice"? i.e. to watch, help with tending
hives, etc."

I would recommend that you try contacting your local beekeeper associatio=
n.
 I too am a brand new beekeeper and the advice and help I've receive from=

my association has been very, very, very worthwhile.  I found several
mentors via my association and they really helped me avoid making a lot o=
f
mistakes if I were to have gone at it alone.

You might want to contact:
Northern Colorado Beekeepers
W.B. Belden, Jr.
5922 Venus Ave.
Fort Collins, CO 80525

They may be able to help you locate some equipment for you as well.

Rory Stenerson,
Member, Centre County Beekeepers Association,
V.P., State College Underground Maltsters
State College, PA 16803
E-mail: 71762.1664@compuserve.com
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 11:06:48 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Albert W Needham <awneedham@juno.com>
Subject:      Re: Repost: Best of Bee

For those who may be new to the List. Whenever
alleged nonsense, or items of conversation deemed
to be unsuitable for the List suddenly appear, you can
count on the Gatekeeper, in some circles know as:
" The Grump from The North -- :-) :-) " to repost
information on Best Of BEE-L.

Relax Allen, truly I say this in positive humor !
Go out to one of your yards and enjoy watching
your girls bringing in the nectar like sixty !

Al,

Offering 'Unique' Honey Bee Artwork On Caps,
------- T-Shirts, Tank Tops & Sweatshirts --------
-------------Honey Bees & Doktor Finkle-------------
------ http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ------
awneedham@juno.com.............Scituate,MA,USA
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 12:13:22 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Ted Wout <TedWout@compuserve.com>
Subject:      Drawing out new supers
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

This year I bought the makings for several new supers, built them over th=
e
winter and had them ready for the flow.  I first used all of my fully dra=
wn
supers on my hives to get as much honey as possible.  Since they are now
fully capped now I am putting on my new supers.  I'm a little disappointe=
d
because my bees aren't taking to them with reckless abandon.  They really=

aren't doing much to draw them out at all.

They are all on top of the hives.  My beekeeping mentor has advised me to=

top super and not worry about moving supers around when adding.  I suspec=
t
that this advice may have been good when using fully drawn comb but may n=
ot
be good for getting bees to draw out new foundation.  I'm also using
Permadent plastic foundation which the bees might not like as well as pla=
in
old wax foundation.

So I'm floating some questions out here and we'll see how long they last
before they're shot out of the water.

1.  Should I have put on the new foundation first to encourage the bees t=
o
draw it out?  I think that they wouldn't have made as much honey but I'd
have drawn comb if I did.

2.  Should I have mixed drawn comb and foundation in each super to
encourage bees to draw it out?  Maybe every other frame?

3.  Should I have put drawn comb on half of the hives to get some honey a=
nd
forced others to draw out foundation for the honey flow?

4.  Should I have put new supers of foundation under supers of drawn comb=
?

I'm just not impressed with what I tried this year and am developing a
better plan for next year.

The last plant of our local wildflower flow, horsemint, is blooming now. =

By July it just gets too hot and dry for much more nectar.  There's some
cotton planted around my land so I'll get some honey from that as well.  =
If
we get more rain, maybe the mesquite will bloom again.  We're about 5
inches above average for the year but June is behind average for the mont=
h
so far.

It's turning out to be a good year for honey here.  I hope everyone else =
is
seeing a good flow.

Ted Wout
Red Oak, TX (just south of Dallas)
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 12:06:40 -0600
Reply-To:     Charles Harper <charlie@iAmerica.net>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Charles Harper <charlie@iAmerica.net>
Subject:      Re: Drawing out new supers
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

On Thu, 12 Jun 1997 12:13:22 -0400, Ted Wout wrote:

>1.  Should I have put on the new foundation first to encourage the bees to
>draw it out?  I think that they wouldn't have made as much honey but I'd
>have drawn comb if I did.

NO , you would loose honey. I always put my comb first to maximise my honey
flow

>2.  Should I have mixed drawn comb and foundation in each super to
>encourage bees to draw it out?  Maybe every other frame?

You would get a bad draw on the sheets next to the comb unless the flow is realy
strong, it sounds like the flow is not very intense


>3.  Should I have put drawn comb on half of the hives to get some honey and
>forced others to draw out foundation for the honey flow?

That will work best, but you will have a swarming problem on the hives with
foundation


>4.  Should I have put new supers of foundation under supers of drawn comb?

I have had dispointing resusts with that .
The best results i have had with drawing foundation is with new colinies that will
not gather a large crop as comparied to the overwinted hive.
 Or pull the crop and super back with fountation if the flow has any time left, that
will get your foundation pulled and still get maximum crop.



Charles Harper
Harper's Honey farm
1000 + Colonies
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 13:10:27 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         RICHARD BARNES <rbarnes@halnet.com>
Subject:      Re: Drawing out new supers
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Ted,
I have my best results by feeding sugar syrup to the hives that I want to
pull comb.  I usually do this in July when the flow is really low.  By
feeding syrup, I get drawn comb and keep the bee count up in the hives.  I
want to keep the bee count up for the cotton and alfalfa in august/
september/october.  I remove all supers from the colonies and just place one
super of undrawn comb.  Each hive will pull most of a super in a month on
sugar syrup.

If I get sugar-honey in the super, I can either extract for feeding in late
winter or keep the comb in the super and place the super on in late fall for
winter food.  If I use the sugar-honey for winter feed, I have to be careful
that the queen doesn't lay eggs in the super in the early spring before I
can work the hives.

Any other comments from the list?

Richard Barnes
SW Oklahoma, USA
rbarnes@halnet.com

At 12:13 PM 6/12/97 -0400, you wrote:
>This year I bought the makings for several new supers, built them over the
>winter and had them ready for the flow.  I first used all of my fully drawn
>supers on my hives to get as much honey as possible.  Since they are now
>fully capped now I am putting on my new supers.  I'm a little disappointed
>because my bees aren't taking to them with reckless abandon.  They really
>aren't doing much to draw them out at all.

>It's turning out to be a good year for honey here.  I hope everyone else is
>seeing a good flow.
>
>Ted Wout
>Red Oak, TX (just south of Dallas)
>
>
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:10:51 +-100
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net>
Subject:      Mineral Oil in Britain
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This may be of interest to British Beekeepers.
Dr. Rodriguez's mineral oil is known in Britain as Liquid Paraffin.  It =
is available in Chemist shops for about one pound sterling for about =
150mls.  It is also available from vets at about 4.50 pounds sterling =
for one litre.
If anyone knows of a better supply please let me know.

Harry
Scotland
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 15:47:30 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Faith Andrews Bedford <FAITHAB@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Africanized Bees

Several p eople have asked me if the African bees are less senitive to both
mites.  I told them I did not know but would throw the questions out to all
my bee buddies.  Anyone out there know the answer?

Thanks,

Faith Andrews Bedford
Ivy VA and Tampa
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 17:12:28 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         John Wolford <jmwolford@kih.net>
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I have just introduced a package of bees to a new hive.  I installed a
entrance reducer per advice from a fellow bee friend on BEE L.  Could
someone tell me how long I should keep it there?  (This is my first
experience with packaged bees)

John M. Wolford
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:49:42 +-100
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net>
Subject:      Skeps and AFB
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Hi All
A while back on the beekeeping newsgroup there was some discussion about =
Straw Hives and Skeps.  I was surprised to find out that Skep Beekeeping =
was not allowed in many countries due to the fact that the combs could =
not be examined properly.  The discussion in this group about the =
sterilisation of hives which were contaminated by AFB made me think =
about this again.  A new national hive in Britain will cost about 200 =
pounds sterling which is about 300 dollars.  I would be very loath to =
burn or even scald a new hive and I am sure many people must feel the =
same.  This must contribute to the spread of the disease.  Skeps on the =
other hand have the advantage that they cost nothing except your time in =
making them.  They are disposable.  I think they have been unjustly =
blamed for spreading disease.

Harry
Scotland
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 17:09:04 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Victor Kroenke <victork@sound.net>
Subject:      Re: People with too much time on their hands!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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John M Thorp wrote:
>
> I hope all of you guys like this. Some folks when lifes a lemon they make
> lemonade,hope you do the same if you're coming up lemons. Blessings!
> Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at<cfwc2@gil.net>

You got my vote.  Hope your post makes Best of BEE-L.


>
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 15:34:22 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
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>From owner-bee-l@cnsibm.albany.edu Thu Jun 12 15:09:45 1997
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<b>Subject:      Re: People with too much time on their hands!!!!!!!!!!!!!</b>
To:           BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
</pre><hr>
<pre>
John M Thorp wrote:
&gt;
&gt; I hope all of you guys like this. Some folks when lifes a lemon they make
&gt; lemonade,hope you do the same if you're coming up lemons. Blessings!
&gt; Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at&lt;cfwc2@gil.net&gt;

You got my vote.  Hope your post makes Best of BEE-L.


&gt;
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&#169; 1996-1997 <b>HoTMaiL</b>.  All Rights Reserved.
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--------------11C19F728FE--
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 23:02:16 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "MR WILLIAM L HUGHES JR." <NHJV32A@prodigy.com>
Subject:      Did not rotate hive bodies

Last year I did not reverse my hive bodies and very few colonies
swarmed.  This year I reversed all of them and had a great number of
swarms.  Like you next year I think I will not reverse them and see
what happens.

Bill Hughes
Bent Holly Honey Farm
Brighton, TN  USA

<<Earlier this year some posts talked about not rotating hive bodies
in
the spring but letting the queen work her way down. My bees came
through
the winter in exceptional shape, no mites. So when I decided to
rotate
hive bodies, four out of five already were in the bottom box, so I
only
rotated the one hive. It is the only one that swarmed. All the
others
are in the second super - and we are not even in the main clover
honey
flow. The one that swarmed is still in the lower brood boxes. I
realize
this is only one data point and may be the exception, so I will try
it
again next year.
Bill Truesdell
Bath>>
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 21:33:55 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Tim Townsend <TTOWNSE@IBM.NET>
Organization: TPLR Honey Farms
Subject:      Re: Safety of Roundup
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-2022-jp
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Sevigny, Marc wrote:
>
> I was told that roundup is harmless to biurds, and animals.  I
> extrapolated
> that thinking and extended it to bees.
>
> Last week, I applied Roundup near my hive in an attempt to keep the
> weeds
> from blocking the entrance.  The following day, I notices that I has
> several
> hundred dead and dying bees near the entrance to the hive.

Marc;
  Yes, Round Up is non toxic to the bees, we have been spraying it in front
of our hives for about 15 years with no ill effects, it does keep the weeds
down, and the farmers apprieciate that, and our crew like not having to pull
the grass and weeds. If there are ANY side effect I have yet to see them.

Best Regards,
Tim Townsend
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:00:12 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Tim Townsend <TTOWNSE@IBM.NET>
Organization: TPLR Honey Farms
Subject:      Re: AFB
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-2022-jp
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Bonnie Pierson wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> A friend asked me to ask the question, "Has any one had any experience
> detecting AFB with a  black light?"
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bonnie Pierson
> Bonbee@aol.comBonnie;
  I triied using a black light about 25 years ago to detect AFB, it worked
great, the AFB showed up florecent green ( if I remember the color
correctly), but it was too time consuming to continue. Give it a shot you'll
definitely notice it if it's there.
Tim
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 05:07:21 UT
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Garry Libby <LibBEE@msn.com>
Subject:      Sci.Agr.Beekeeping

Hello,

Could anyone tell Me what has happened to the Sci.Agr.Beekeeping list?
I have sent several posts to it with no response or messages,and the page is
completely blank.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank You,

Garry Libby   Boston,USA
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 00:07:18 -0600
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "Calkins, Rob" <RCalkins@Wolfgang.com>
Subject:      Re: Sci.Agr.Beekeeping
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain

I have had the same problem, no one seems to want to answer my
questions.

Rob Calkins

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Garry Libby [SMTP:LibBEE@msn.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 12, 1997 11:07 PM
> To:   BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
> Subject:      Sci.Agr.Beekeeping
>
> Hello,
>
> Could anyone tell Me what has happened to the Sci.Agr.Beekeeping list?
> I have sent several posts to it with no response or messages,and the
> page is
> completely blank.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank You,
>
> Garry Libby   Boston,USA
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 00:11:28 -0600
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "Calkins, Rob" <RCalkins@Wolfgang.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain

Would I be too optimistic if I were to put supers on my package bees?
They were installed the last week of April and have
been doing great.  The queens are laying well and lots of nectar and
pollen are coming in.  If I put on my supers, will they
fill them up before the extra space in the brood boxes or will they go
straight for the supers.  I want to give them enough honey for the
winter, but I am getting low on honey myself.  Any thoughts or help
would be appreciated.
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 08:29:10 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         J Troyer <bkeep200@concentric.net>
Organization: Honey Hill Farm
Subject:      Re: Supering Package Bees
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Rob,

In answer to your question on supering your package bes, we were given
this advice when we began beekeeping: when seven out of ten frames have
drawn comb, put on your second deep.  When 7/10 of the deep frames have
been drawn, put on the first honey super, etc.  Hope this helps. JT
=========================================================================
Date:         Thu, 12 Jun 1997 17:08:52 -0700
Reply-To:     dronebee@pilot.infi.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "Dr. Pedro Rodriguez" <dronebee@PILOT.INFI.NET>
Organization: InfiNet
Subject:      lost e-mail addresses
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

  Sometime ago I posted a memo on this list service indicating that I
had lost some files due to a power upsurge.  Unfortunately, I also lost
the addresses for many friends and neighbors ( Bryan Henle, Eduardo
Hector Baunstein, and others).  To those of you who may be wandering why
I have not written, I wish to let you know (this is the means that I
know best) that I appreciate your friendship but have not been able to
write due to lack of an e-mail address.
Best regards.
Dr. Rodriguez
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 07:33:09 -0600
Reply-To:     allend@internode.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <allend@[204.209.166.19]>
From:         Allen Dick <allend@internode.net>
Organization: The Beekeepers
Subject:      Re: Sci.Agr.Beekeeping
In-Reply-To:  <UPMAIL14.199706130506240811@msn.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> Could anyone tell Me what has happened to the Sci.Agr.Beekeeping list? I
> have sent several posts to it with no response or messages,and the page
> is completely blank...

A solution is below, but first some background...

Your ISP determines the amount and speed of news you receive and send.  If
the group you read is not as popular as some others (*.erotica.*?), your
ISP (MSN?) may have it very low in its priorities and it may only be
updated when the other groups have been serviced -- which can mean seldom
or never.  This is the case lately for sci.ag.bee on my ISP and I am
wrestling with them about it.

This is the main problem of USENET compared to mailing lists like BEE-L.
Reliability varies over time and distance on USENET, but mailing lists use
email which is over 95% reliable.   Sci.ag.bee is a USENET group and is
not located in any one place, but distributed over the net. Try
http://www.dejanews.com/help/dnusenet_help.html
which is a good place to learn more about USENET.

Anyhow there is a way around the problems with USENET: you *can* read
sci.ag.bee on the *web* any time you want by aiming your browser at
http://www.dejanews.com/forms/rn.html

I quote them:  "Articles don't expire on Deja News. Ever. We keep them
until the end of time so that old does not necessarily mean forgotten:
after their tenure as live Usenet news, articles make their sinuous,
bandwidthy way to Deja News..."

We have to assume they have a full feed.

Allen

PS:  You can also post from DejaNews
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 08:00:18 -0600
Reply-To:     allend@internode.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <allend@[204.209.166.19]>
From:         Allen Dick <allend@internode.net>
Organization: The Beekeepers
Subject:      Re: Sci.Agr.Beekeeping
In-Reply-To:  <13362394403544@systronix.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> Anyhow there is a way around the problems with USENET: you *can* read
> sci.ag.bee on the *web* any time you want by aiming your browser at
> http://www.dejanews.com/forms/rn.html

And for a direct route to the beekeeping group
http://search.dejanews.com/rn.xp?newsgroups=sci.agriculture.beekeeping

Allen
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 10:01:52 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Rory Stenerson <71762.1664@compuserve.com>
Subject:      Storing Newly Assembled Supers
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Greetings All,

I'm new to beekeeping and have a couple of questions I would gratefull fo=
r
any advice.
Super Storage-
I've just started with two hives from two five frame nucs (Carniolans) an=
d
I recently  purchased and assembled ten shallow supers and four more deep=
s
(using crimp-wired foundation.)  I've got them all painted and stacked up=

in my garage right now, should I be concerned with wax moth infestation? =
 I
know I should if they were drawn combs, but how about with new foundation=
?

Queen Exclusion-
Since I don't have any drawn comb supers, should I put in ten in the supe=
rs
instead of nine?  Also, I've been advised that the bees will not come up =
to
work a super with just foundation (which all that I have right now) throu=
gh
a queen excluder.  What's the best way of preventing the queen from comin=
g
up and laying in newly drawn comb in my new shallow supers?  Presently, I=
'm
using two deeps and there's brood in both levels.

Thanx everyone in advance for your advice,

Rory Stenerson,
Member, Centre County Beekeepers Association,
V.P., State College Underground Maltsters,
State College, PA U.S.A.
E-mail: 71762.1664@compuserve.com  =
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 08:44:50 -0600
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Eric Abell <eabell@compusmart.ab.ca>
Subject:      Re: Did not rotate hive bodies
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 23:46:44
>To: mister-t@clinic.net
>From: Eric Abell <eabell@mail.compusmart.ab.ca>
>Subject: Re: Did not rotate hive bodies
>
>At 10:21 AM 11/06/97 -0700, you wrote:
>>Earlier this year some posts talked about not rotating hive bodies in
>>the spring but letting the queen work her way down. My bees came through
>>the winter in exceptional shape, no mites. So when I decided to rotate
>>hive bodies, four out of five already were in the bottom box, so I only
>>rotated the one hive. It is the only one that swarmed. All the others
>>are in the second super - and we are not even in the main clover honey
>>flow. The one that swarmed is still in the lower brood boxes. I realize
>>this is only one data point and may be the exception, so I will try it
>>again next year.
>>Bill Truesdell
>>Bath
>>
>But is that not the reason for reversing (rotating) these boxes?  In my
area it is a race to have the bees ready for the flow.  If we believe that a
large population encourages swarming then your 5 hive experiment would
appear to indicate that reversing can increase the population faster than if
it is not reversed.
>
>In my case, I reverse as soon as the bees are starting into the bottom box
or as soon as the top box starts to fill with bees. Now, there is a
tremendous difference in colony strength between those that were reversed
and those that were not. Is this because the non-reversed were poor colonies
to begin with or because reversing imporoved the already better colonies?
Likely both.  When I first made this decision, there was not a great deal of
difference.  The difference is now great.  Perhaps I should reverse everything?
>
>Reversing is heavy work. With a short time between winter and the major
honey flow I suspect that reversing hives is worth the trouble.
>
>Eric
>
>
Eric Abell
Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0
Ph/fax (403) 998 3143
eabell@compusmart.ab.ca
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 09:42:07 -0600
Reply-To:     allend@internode.net
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <allend@[204.209.166.19]>
From:         Allen Dick <allend@internode.net>
Organization: The Beekeepers
Subject:      lost e-mail addresses
In-Reply-To:  <15380443203839@systronix.net>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

> Sometime ago I posted a memo on this list service indicating that I
> had lost some files due to a power upsurge.... To those of you who may
> be wondering why I have not written, I wish to let you know (this is the
> means that I know best) that I appreciate your friendship but have not
> been able to write due to lack of an e-mail address...

This is not an unusual problem, so the solution may be interest to all.

Anyone who is on BEE-L will be on the list of names returned by sending
email to:

LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
saying
REVIEW BEE-L

For a list of those on Best of Bee,
send email to:
honeybee@systronix.net
saying
list bestofbee

Searches on the web such as 411 will find many academics and others for
you as well

Allen
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 08:41:42 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Roy Nettlebeck <rnettleb@linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us>
Subject:      Re: Did not rotate hive bodies
In-Reply-To:  <199706131444.IAA09129@bernie.compusmart.ab.ca>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Fri, 13 Jun 1997, Eric Abell wrote:

> >Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 23:46:44
> >To: mister-t@clinic.net
> >From: Eric Abell <eabell@mail.compusmart.ab.ca>
> >Subject: Re: Did not rotate hive bodies
> >
> >At 10:21 AM 11/06/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >>Earlier this year some posts talked about not rotating hive bodies in
> >>the spring but letting the queen work her way down. My bees came through
> >>the winter in exceptional shape, no mites. So when I decided to rotate
> >>hive bodies, four out of five already were in the bottom box, so I only
> >>rotated the one hive. It is the only one that swarmed. All the others
> >>are in the second super - and we are not even in the main clover honey
> >>flow. The one that swarmed is still in the lower brood boxes. I realize
> >>this is only one data point and may be the exception, so I will try it
> >>again next year.
> >>Bill Truesdell
> >>Bath
> >>
> >But is that not the reason for reversing (rotating) these boxes?  In my
> area it is a race to have the bees ready for the flow.  If we believe that a
> large population encourages swarming then your 5 hive experiment would
> appear to indicate that reversing can increase the population faster than if
> it is not reversed.
> >
> >In my case, I reverse as soon as the bees are starting into the bottom box
> or as soon as the top box starts to fill with bees. Now, there is a
> tremendous difference in colony strength between those that were reversed
> and those that were not. Is this because the non-reversed were poor colonies
> to begin with or because reversing imporoved the already better colonies?
> Likely both.  When I first made this decision, there was not a great deal of
> difference.  The difference is now great.  Perhaps I should reverse everything?
> >
> >Reversing is heavy work. With a short time between winter and the major
> honey flow I suspect that reversing hives is worth the trouble.
> >

 Hi Eric and all,

  I reverse my hives. It is hard work but it will stimulate the bees to
work on a oval brood nest again. A happy bee is a busiy bee.
 Timing is important.You need to see a good start on build up.
 I have hives with 4-5 suppers that are about capped off now.The min. is
2. There is a down side. The more you work the hive , you increace the
chance of pinching the queen. Move slow !!!.
 We have had a terrible wet spring in western Washington. US.Even with the
bad weather the bees have had something to do when they could not fly.
I can see a good summer in the fireweed with very strong hives.
 Best Regards
 Roy
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:51:11 +0000
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "Malcolm Tom Sanford, Extension Apiculturist"
              <mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu>
Subject:      Mineral oil specifications
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Anybody know what this is called in France?  Is there some technical
specification for the stuff?  We all know that vegetable oil can  be
a number of things.

Tom Sanford

Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:10:51 +-100
From: "luichart.woollens@virgin.net" <luichart.woollens@virgin.net>
Subject: Mineral Oil in Britain
MIME-version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


This may be of interest to British Beekeepers.
Dr. Rodriguez's mineral oil is known in Britain as Liquid Paraffin.  It is
available in Chemist shops for about one pound sterling for about 150mls.
It is also available from vets at about 4.50 pounds sterling for one litre.
If anyone knows of a better supply please let me know.
====================================================
Dr. M.Tom Sanford  Professor and Extension Apiculturist
Entomology-Nematology, University of Florida
Box 110620  Gainesville, FL  32611-0620
Temporarily at:  23 Blvd. de la Republique No. 8
13100  Aix-en-Provence, France  ph 33-04-42-93-16-47
email: mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu
===================================================
Publisher of APIS on the web at:
http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~mts/apishtm/apis.htm
===================================================
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 13:44:04 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         MAKRUGER@AOL.COM
Subject:      WNYBeekeepers

Hello!  I live about half an hour south of Buffalo, and would like to get in
touch with some beekeepers in my area.  I'm not sure if I want a hive, but
would like to learn more and possibly see if someone would put a hive on my
property for pollination purposes.  Can you help me to find a couple people
who might fit this description?

Thank You!

Michelle Kruger
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 18:10:19 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "W. G. Miller" <WGMiller@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Sterilisation of Hive equipment after American Foul Brood
              disease

How does one disinfect AFB contaminated equipment?

First off, check to see if it is legal to do in your area, and if so, what
methods are permitted.  In most places, AFB contaminated equipment must be
burned.

All the fumigation treatments I know of involve hazardous agents, and require
special training, special equipment, and special safety precautions.  In
short, they all fall into the "do not try this at home" category.

In Maryland (USA), we have had good results using ethylene oxide as a
fumigation agent.  Using ethylene oxide requires special equipment and
training, which fortunately our state Dept. of Agriculture has.
 Unfortunately, due to recent actions by the Environmental Protection Agency
ethylene oxide fumigation may no longer be legal.  For those who are curious
about this, I believe the subject was discussed in BEE-L this past March.

Irradiation has also been used successfully, as has boiling in lye solutions.

Irradiation can be done at a commercial irradiation facility (if you know of
one).

Boiling in lye requires chemical hazard training, lots of safety equipment,
 and a thorough review of procedures and equipment being used to handle the
lye solution and the beeekeeping equipment.

W. G. Miller
Gaithersburg MD,
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 21:42:13 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         David Green <Pollinator@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Sci.Agr.Beekeeping

In a message dated 97-06-13 16:10:39 EDT, Garry Libby [SMTP:LibBEE@msn.com]
writes:

<< > Could anyone tell Me what has happened to the Sci.Agr.Beekeeping list?
 > I have sent several posts to it with no response or messages,and the
 > page is
 > completely blank.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank You,
 >
 > Garry Libby   Boston,USA >>

    I suspect this is an intensely busy season for most of the pros.  I've
had to curtail my net activity, due to pressures of pollination, shipping
bees north, and honey extracting.  Many times we are up against absolute
deadlines, and it doesn't matter if we feel we need a day off.  When the crop
starts to bloom, the farmer has GOT to have his bees.

    So.......my apologies if I missed something where I could have helped.
 All my livelihood depends on what happens in three months of the year.  I'll
be back ASAP.

Pollinator@aol.com
Dave Green   Hemingway, SC  29554
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:06:08 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Fernihough <billfern@istar.ca>
Subject:      Re: Did not rotate hive bodies
In-Reply-To:  <199706130302.XAA63214@mime4.prodigy.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

It is normal for bees to swarm in the second year, maybe, just maybe, hive
reversal had nothing do to with it.
>
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:07:45 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Fernihough <billfern@istar.ca>
Subject:      Re: Sci.Agr.Beekeeping
In-Reply-To:  <UPMAIL14.199706130506240811@msn.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

AMaybe your Internet provider dropped it, it is still there for me.
>
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:09:11 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Fernihough <billfern@istar.ca>
In-Reply-To:  <20E1A7F01AA1D011BFD50060971BC267032C7E@Watchdog.Wolfgang.c om>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Put the supers on.  As long as you have a honey flow they will fill them.
If the uspers are not drawn comb, don't put a queen exculder in, they won't
go to undrawn supers if you do.
=========================================================================
Date:         Fri, 13 Jun 1997 20:13:55 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bill Fernihough <billfern@istar.ca>
Subject:      Re: Storing Newly Assembled Supers
Comments: cc: 71762.1664@compuserve.com
In-Reply-To:  <199706131002_MC2-1864-EC1D@compuserve.com>
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

There is no good way to stop the queen from going into the higher supers,
buy once you have the bees working in them and a few combs drawn out, put
the excluder in, that will stop her.  The advice you got about not using a
queen exclduer with new undrawn comb is very accurate.  Evenif you get a
few larvae and eggs in the honey supers, they will filter out. Ug!  So does
everything else.
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 00:13:10 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Vince Coppola <vcoppola@epix.net>
Subject:      Re: WNYBeekeepers
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

MAKRUGER@AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hello!  I live about half an hour south of Buffalo, and would like to get in
> touch with some beekeepers in my area.  I'm not sure if I want a hive, but
> would like to learn more and possibly see if someone would put a hive on my
> property for pollination purposes.  Can you help me to find a couple people
> who might fit this description?

        Hi,

        We have an organization, the WNY honey producers association, dues is only
$5/yr. We have 5 meetings per year. If you want bees give me a call at 965-2904, I'm
in Forestville, near Silver Creek. We sell nucs, rent bees and produce honey so I'm
always looking for a new bee yard. What crops do you need pollinated?
                                        Vince
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 03:45:16 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Trevor Weatherhead <queenbee@gil.com.au>
Subject:      Re: Heat sterilisation of bee boxes

The Roberts wrote the following

>I am seeking some definitive infomation regarding the sterilization of hive
>equipment after a foul brood infection. There has been a long held view
>that heating the equipment will result in the death of the Bacillus spores.
>What I am seeking is some research which supports this which will enable
>our amatuer beekeeping club to put argument before the Queensland DPI that
>this treatment is an effective solution to this problem.

>Nick Wallingford from NZ has been good enough to track down a paper
>prepared by Hansen and Rassmussen on this subject. This was prepared for an
>international symposium in Gent Belgium in 1990(1?).

>I would greatly appreciate any advice on the matter, particularly that
>which is supported by hard research, or reference to any technical papers
>which are readily available.

There is already research being conducted by myself as the Principal
Researcher and the Queensland Department of Primary Industries on using heat
to sterilise beekeeping equipment infected with Paenibacillus larvae.  This
is the new name for American foulbrood.  At present we are working on bee
boxes.

I can assure you that in our project, the QDPI have researched the issue very
thoroughly.  Whilst it is not completed, the current research is showing
promise.

If you have any questions, I am in a position to answer them.  I can even come
to your club meeting to explain the current research.  If you coming to the
Queensland Beekeepers Association annual conference at Toowoomba on 19 & 20
June i.e. this coming week, there are two presentations on this research.  I
am surprised you have not heard of this research.

As for other sterilisation methods, there are some good articles written on
the sterilisation of AFB infected material using gamma irradiation.  The
author is Dr. Michael Hornitzky and these would be in the Brisbane Amateur
Beekeeping Society library as they have been published in the Australasian
Beekeeper.

Trevor Weatherhead
AUSTRALIA
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 20:10:42 +1100
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Comments:     Authenticated sender is <nickw@wave.co.nz>
From:         Nick Wallingford <nickw@wave.co.nz>
Subject:      NZ Bkpg site 'off air'...
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

The National Beekeepers' Association Executive Committee has not
decided to support this site.  Until I can sort out the difficulties,
I have had to remove the pages.

If you have enjoyed the site in the past, or have heard good things
about it from others, please write to the NBA Executive Secretary
(Harry Brown) and let him know that you were disappointed the site
was not available!

There is a link to send messages to support reinstating the site at:
http://www.wave.co.nz/pages/nickw/nzbkpg.htm

Thanks!
  (\      Nick Wallingford
 {|||8-   home nickw@wave.co.nz
  (/      work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz
NZ Beekeeping http://www.wave.co.nz/pages/nickw/nzbkpg.htm
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 07:29:51 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "(Thomas) (Cornick)" <BeeCrofter@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Did not rotate hive bodies

I winter in 2 deeps  now I am finding the BC's so full of honey that I am
extracting four combs of it and feeding it to my startup colonies to draw
foudation with and returning the empty combs to the BC's.
Is this a common practice to relieve BC congestion?
Perhaps too much work for the big guys but I get about 3 gallons of syrup
from 4 fat combs and it keeps my sugar bill lower and my queens busy.
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 10:00:22 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "<Matthew J Allan>HELP" <MattAllan@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Mineral oil specifications

'What is paraffin oil called in France?'

try 'le petrol'

Matthew j Allan
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 09:56:40 -0400
Reply-To:     Bob Billson <kc2wz@intercall.net>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Bob Billson <kc2wz@intercall.net>
Organization: my honeybees are more organized than me! :-)
Subject:      newbie ques.: 9 frames or 10?
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Hi all!

I have another first-year newbie question. :)

I am confused.  I have read conflicting recommendations for the number of
frames to have in the brood chambers.

With 9 frames, the bees supposedly have slightly more space and there is
less chance of injuring the queen when removing frames.  The downside is
supposed to be less room for brood and winter stores.

With 10 frames, the opposite holds.  There is supposedly more room for
brood and winter stores, but greater chance of injuring the queen.

Do 9 frame significantly increase the risks of swarming due to
overcrowding?  Or is the risk, if any, worth it because the queen is less
like to get hurt?

With 9 frames, don't the bees tend to 'glue' the frames together with more
bridge comb.  If that is the case, isn't the queen just as likely to get
hurt getting the frames apart?

I've already got one super for cut comb honey on my two colonies.  Should
I just not worry about anything until after the supers come off, if at
all?

What's a newbie to do? :)  Thanks for the advice.

        Bob
--
Bob Billson, KC2WZ                                email: kc2wz@intercall.net
  (\       MS-DOS, you can't live with it.  You can live without it.    /)
 {|||8-                 Linux:  World domination.  Fast.             -8|||}
  (/                                                                    \}
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Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 07:35:30 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Genie <genie@abc.awinc.com>
Subject:      Help - can't find Queen
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Hi to all on the list;

        Have a problem that I no doubt have seen the answer to on the list, but
can't find it.

        We have two hives in our first year, bought set-up hives.  One hive we
have found the queen. The other hive, can't find the queen lots of activity
too many drones.
        From the advice of one of the local beekeepers it has been sugested we get
a new queen and requeen the hive.  If I remember correctly - it has been
stated worker bees will produce drones, and will kill a new queen.
        We would like information on what could be done. Can the suggestion work
and what if anything can we do to keep from loosing the hive?

Thanks in advace for the help. We look forward to all the valuable
information that we have seen on this list.

Genie
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 13:48:44 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         John Wolford <jmwolford@kih.net>
Subject:      Re: Help - can't find Queen
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Genie,

Been there and done that.  I'm a freshman at bee keeping too.  I just
finished introducing a new queen to a hive like the one you just
described....

1.  I took all frames about 30 to 40 feet away and shook every bee off.  I
then took the hive itself with those remaining bees and shook those out
too.  I was told that the idea behind this was to let the worker bees fly
back and the laying workers or bad queen would not likely return due to
their inabilty to fly.

2.  I then replaced two frames from the laying worker colony with 2 frames
from a stronger colony that had lots of brood.  I placed the new queen in
between these two frames with the screen side up and the candy facing the
front of the hive.

I just did this June 10.  I plan on examining the hive tomorrow to see if
the queen was released and is still alive if it ever stops raining.  If she
is, in about 2 - 3 weeks I plan on checking again to see if she's laying.
I'll let you know something tomorrow if she is alive.

John M. Wolford
jmwolford@kih.net

----------
> From: Genie <genie@abc.awinc.com>
> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
> Subject: Help - can't find Queen
> Date: Saturday, June 14, 1997 10:35 AM
>
> Hi to all on the list;
>
>         Have a problem that I no doubt have seen the answer to on the
list, but
> can't find it.
>
>         We have two hives in our first year, bought set-up hives.  One
hive we
> have found the queen. The other hive, can't find the queen lots of
activity
> too many drones.
>         From the advice of one of the local beekeepers it has been
sugested we get
> a new queen and requeen the hive.  If I remember correctly - it has been
> stated worker bees will produce drones, and will kill a new queen.
>         We would like information on what could be done. Can the
suggestion work
> and what if anything can we do to keep from loosing the hive?
>
> Thanks in advace for the help. We look forward to all the valuable
> information that we have seen on this list.
>
> Genie
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 13:18:55 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         J Troyer <bkeep200@concentric.net>
Organization: Honey Hill Farm
Subject:      Re: Help - can't find Queen
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Genie,

In the June issue of Bee Culture on p.38 there is an article on "How to
Handle Laying Workers" that might be of interest to you.  Bee Culture
has a web site that contains some articles from the magazine but is only
posting the May issue.  If you do not have Bee Culture you might try the
web site and hope that the page is updated soon.  The address is
 <www.airoot.com>   The site also contains archived articles that you
could look through for information.    JT
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 18:09:29 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "(Thomas) (Cornick)" <BeeCrofter@aol.com>
Subject:      Re: Storing Newly Assembled Supers

In a message dated 97-06-14 09:16:00 EDT, you write:

<<
 There is no good way to stop the queen from going into the higher supers,
 buy once you have the bees working in them and a few combs drawn out, put
 the excluder in, that will stop her.  The advice you got about not using a
 queen exclduer with new undrawn comb is very accurate.  Evenif you get a
 few larvae and eggs in the honey supers, they will filter out. Ug!  So does
 everything else.

  >>
Hey I dont know if this is the best way to go but I have been putting a super
of undrawn foundation between the broodnest and the drawn supers and the
queen seems to stay below.
Just pulled another 30 frames of capped honey  what a spring
and someone tried to tell me the main honeyflow in CT is in the fall.
The hives that didnt swarm are stacked 3 supers of drawn and one super of
foundation over 2 deeps.
Six swarms have been hived so far and combined to make 3 strong hives in 2
deeps.
And it looks like my swarm trap is working also - a lot of scouts going in
and out.

what bees these mortals fool
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Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 20:10:43 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Conrad Sigona <conrad@ntcnet.com>
Subject:      Re: Did not rotate hive bodies
In-Reply-To:  <970614072950_1242131286@emout09.mail.aol.com>
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> I winter in 2 deeps  now I am finding the BC's so full of honey that I am
> extracting four combs of it and feeding it to my startup colonies to draw
> foudation with and returning the empty combs to the BC's.
> Is this a common practice to relieve BC congestion?
> Perhaps too much work for the big guys but I get about 3 gallons of syrup
> from 4 fat combs and it keeps my sugar bill lower and my queens busy.

It would seem counterproductive to me to extract honey and feed it in
liquid form back to other colonies. Maybe there's something I'm not
quite understanding?

Conrad Sigona
conrad@ntcnet.com
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 21:59:13 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Midnite Bee <midnitebee@cybertours.com>
Subject:      Re: cough drops
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www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
Greetings!
  I have received this e-mail message. Would anyone care to comment?
Another silver bullet,perhaps?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------

Bee farmers in southern U.S. tell me to use Hall's Ice Blue cough drops
     for hive treatment [ 4 drops at 12 mgs a drop].  Bees consume the
     drops.  They swear it works.Is this so.
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 22:01:58 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         John Wolford <jmwolford@kih.net>
Subject:      Re: cough drops
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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What are you treating for?

John M. Wolford
jmwolford@kih.net

----------
> From: Midnite Bee <midnitebee@cybertours.com>
> To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU
> Subject: Re: cough drops
> Date: Saturday, June 14, 1997 10:59 PM
>
> www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee
> Greetings!
>   I have received this e-mail message. Would anyone care to comment?
> Another silver bullet,perhaps?
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

> -------------------------------------------
>
> Bee farmers in southern U.S. tell me to use Hall's Ice Blue cough drops
>      for hive treatment [ 4 drops at 12 mgs a drop].  Bees consume the
>      drops.  They swear it works.Is this so.
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 19:34:26 -0700
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         "William W. Robinson" <roseguy@flash.net>
Subject:      FAQ for rec.gardens.ecosystems
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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I am in the process of writing the "Gardening for Wildlife" section for
the FAQ for the proposed new newsgroup rec.gardens.ecosystems.
I'm a better gardener than a bee keeper and I'm not all that
comfortable about my comments regarding bees and bee keeping.
Would some kind hearted bee keeper look over my attached draft
and tell me how to do it better.

Thanks

Bill
____________________________________________________________
I.02.*: Attracting Bees and other Pollinators

  I.02.00: Introduction to Attracting Bees and other Pollinators

     Pollen is the male germ cell and pollination is when these male
     germs cells are moved to the female part of the flower. Self
     pollination is when pollen is transferred from the male to the
     female parts on the same flower. Cross-pollination is when
     pollen from one plant is transferred to another plant of the
     same species. The resulting offspring from cross-pollinated
     plants are more vigorous and seemingly more disease resistant.

     Plants produce nectar to attract insects to them so that the
     flowers can be pollinated. There are many insects that are
     attracted to this nectar and in the process pollinate the
     flowers. Bees, as a group however, are unique in that the
     nectar is their base source for carbohydrates and the pollen
     is their base source of fat and protein.  Bees are the primary
     pollinators of many plants. The honey bee population is down
     at the present time. It is impacting on gardens and
     agriculture.

     The best way to attract these various pollinators to the garden
     is through the use of nectar producing plants. This sub-section
     is about the use of the major and minor "honey plants" to
     attract bees and other pollinators to the garden; the use of
     water and propolis as attractants; and a guide to the major
     references and resources on bee keeping.


  I.02.01:
     Q: What are the best plants to attract bees to my garden?

     A: It varies with the region. "The Complete Guide to Bee-
     keeping" by Roger A. Morse lists the "major honey plants" as:
     Alfalfa, Aster, Basswood, Buckwheat, Clover, Goldenrod, Locust,
     Orange, Raspberry, Tulip Tree, and Wild Thyme. Morse adds that
     there are two hundred or more "minor honey plants" as well.
     Best bet is to talk with your local agricultural agent to
     learn which plants do the best job of attracting pollinators
     in your area.

  I.02.02:
     Q: I live in a crowded suburb with neighbors on both side. Is
     it feasible for me to keep bees?

     A: Screens seem to work in guiding bees over areas or
     structures close to the hive and there is some beekeeping that
     goes on in suburban and urban areas without any real problem.
     It would be a good idea, however, to talk it through with your
     neighbors and to check with the local authorities. There are
     some communities with ordinances forbidding beekeeping.

  I.02.03:
     Q: How about having a FAQ on bee keeping?

     A: There is a lot of interest and a lot of material on bee
     keeping. It warrents more than a section in this FAQ. There is
     already a good amount of material on bee keeping on the
     Internet. See "The Internet Apiculture and Beekeeping Archive
     at <http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/home.html>; "The International
     Bee Research Association's web page at <http://www.cardiff.ac.
     uk/ibra>; and "The Beekeeping Home Page at <http://weber.u.
     washington.edu/~jlks/b>. There is also the bee keeping news-
     letter, Bee-L@cnsibm.albany.edu.

  I.02.04:

  I.02.05:

  I.02.06:
=========================================================================
Date:         Sat, 14 Jun 1997 21:47:14 -0500
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Steven Albritton <salbritt@iAmerica.net>
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I put 7 new packages in production Easter weekend.  By tommorrow I will have
pulled a super of honey off 5 of them.  Number 6 shortly, lost queen in #7
so it is behind.  I'm in the swamps of North Louisiana.


At 12:11 AM 6/13/97 -0600, you wrote:
>Would I be too optimistic if I were to put supers on my package bees?
>They were installed the last week of April and have
>been doing great.  The queens are laying well and lots of nectar and
>pollen are coming in.  If I put on my supers, will they
>fill them up before the extra space in the brood boxes or will they go
>straight for the supers.  I want to give them enough honey for the
>winter, but I am getting low on honey myself.  Any thoughts or help
>would be appreciated.
>
>
Steven Albritton
LDS Communications, Chauvin Honey Farms, Sports America
Monroe, La
http://sports.iamerica.net