From LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mon Jun 30 09:38:54 1997 Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 09:28:52 -0400 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8c)" To: Adam Finkelstein Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9706C" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 06:40:47 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: cough drops MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Midnite Bee wrote: > Bee farmers in southern U.S. tell me to use Hall's Ice Blue cough drops > for hive treatment [ 4 drops at 12 mgs a drop]. Bees consume the > drops. They swear it works.Is this so. Been there, done that. No. They still had mites- tracheal, but I never heard them cough the whole winter. Bill Truesdell Bath, ME ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 08:10:57 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Greg Hankins Subject: Leaving Capped Honey on Hive Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" It's not clear that this will become an issue for me this year, since I'm working with two new hives from packages, but I'm curious anyway . . . Reading ABC & XYZ, I've several times seen references to the improvement of homey as it ages in the hive. Sometimes this statement comes in a section on a particularly pungent honey (sumac or dandelion), and suggests that the pungency dissapates and the honey improves in the hive. Other references suggst that honey generally improves as it ages in the hive. I'm reasonably sure that the authors are talking about *sealed* honey improving over time in the hive. As a hobbyist, I can easily pull a super (or even individual frames) at any point after they are sealed. Since I plan to package my honey chunk-style, I probably want reasonably clean caps, and I've read that they can becom travel-stained over time. So, is there anything to this notion that sealed honey improves as it ages in the hive? Greg ____________________________________________________ Greg Hankins Mt. Gilead, NC ghankins@ac.net ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 10:24:00 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Did not rotate hive bodies In a message dated 97-06-15 06:01:53 EDT, you write: << > I winter in 2 deeps now I am finding the BC's so full of honey that I am > extracting four combs of it and feeding it to my startup colonies to draw > foudation with and returning the empty combs to the BC's. > Is this a common practice to relieve BC congestion? > Perhaps too much work for the big guys but I get about 3 gallons of syrup > from 4 fat combs and it keeps my sugar bill lower and my queens busy. It would seem counterproductive to me to extract honey and feed it in liquid form back to other colonies. Maybe there's something I'm not quite understanding? Conrad Sigona >> once the brood chamber fills up with honey the bees either use the supers for brood or swarm since brood chamber honey has had syrup and or medications i use it to feed my startup colonies and empty comb goes back into the brood nest for use by the queen. In most cases this honey was laid up last fall and the cappings are quite dark so as to make recognizing it easy- once it passes through the bees in my startup colonies it comes out as nice white wax and fat brood. Maybe I am missing something? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 10:27:20 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: cough drops In a message dated 97-06-14 22:35:57 EDT, you write: << have received this e-mail message. Would anyone care to comment? Another silver bullet,perhaps? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------- Bee farmers in southern U.S. tell me to use Hall's Ice Blue cough drops for hive treatment [ 4 drops at 12 mgs a drop]. Bees consume the drops. They swear it works.Is this so. >> Silver Bull something ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 10:00:05 -0600 Reply-To: ribac@wi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Randy, Isa & Alina Chase" Subject: Re: cough drops MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is a beekeeper on the Illinois/Wisconsin border that swears by using Hall's Cherry Menthol cough drops. He puts about three or four in each hive every time he opens them up. He has tried a variety of different types and, based on his observations, believes that the bees like the cherry menthol the best. He cautions using other types of medicated cough drops that may have an adverse effect on the bees. His stories are usually good for a grin or two. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 17:35:57 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Artificial insemination Hi all Anybody on the list tried artificial insemination of queens? Keep well Garth --- Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about Grahamstown catfood." 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 In general, generalisations are bad. But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 12:05:56 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Digest Cesar Flores Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 12 Jun 1997 to 13 Jun 1997 Does anyone know a supplier of glass honey jars from England (?) shaped like a bear? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 18:44:21 UT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Glass Honeybears The Beeworks in Ontario,Canada sells the glass honeybears.You can view their homepage at : http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks Garry Libby Boston,USA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 21:33:36 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Gus Truscott Subject: Extra Strong Mints MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hi, I claim almost 100% control of both tracheal and varroa mites by placing one Trebor Extra Strong Mint on top every other brood frame. I assume that the effect is due to the high level of menthol contained in Trebor Extra Strong Mints. Also, I have found a very rapid knockdown of varroa mites by adding 3 Eucalyptus 'Tunes' to my smoker. On the packet of these very effective throat pastilles I note that the ingredients include Eucalyptus, Menthol, Camphor and HONEY!. I am in the habit of smoking myself before working my bees and since adding 'Tunes' to my smoker I have been completely free of both headlice and influenza. Food for thought? Gus Truscott ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 14:18:39 -0700 Reply-To: snielsen@orednet.org Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Susan L. Nielsen" Subject: Re: Extra Strong Mints Gus says: >I am in the habit of smoking myself before working my bees and since >adding 'Tunes' to my smoker I have been completely free of both >headlice and influenza. Food for thought? Umm, gosh. Since blowing smoke on myself, I, too, an free of headlice and influenza. Also smallpox, typhus, yellow fever, malaria, HIV, streptoccus infections, poison oak rashes, pneumonia, bubonic plague, hanta virus, cholera, and, I fear, uncounted other ills. Must be something to this business of blowing smoke... Susan Susan Nielsen | Beehive: If you build it, snielsen@orednet.org | they will comb. -- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 23:30:36 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Keith Hall Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 12 Jun 1997 to 13 Jun 1997 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 12:05 PM 15/06/97 -0400, you wrote: >Does anyone know a supplier of glass honey jars from England (?) shaped like >a bear? > > Try French Flint & Ormco Ltd 61 St Thomas Street London SE1 3QX tel [0]171 403 1733 fax [0]171 407 5877 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 14:10:23 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Verville Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 12 Jun 1997 to 13 Jun 1997 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Digest Cesar Flores wrote: > > Does anyone know a supplier of glass honey jars from England (?) shaped like > a bear? Thorne ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 23:08:12 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Janice Green)" Subject: Re: NZ Bkpg site 'off air'... I tried to send the following message in response to your plea to defend your web site, but it bounced back : << Subj: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: xtra.co.nz%20: host not found) Date: 97-06-15 18:56:52 EDT From: MAILER-DAEMON@aol.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem) To: QueenBJan@aol.com >> The message I sent is as follows: << To: natbeeknz@xtra.co.nz%20 (support%20for%20nba%20site), nickw@wave.co.nz%20 (support%20for%20nba%20site) Subject: Nick's Web Site I can't immagine any beekeeping association that would not be eager to include the beekeeping website in it's repertoire. My husband and I have links to his page on both of our beekeeping pages as it has so much valuable information to beekeepers. The internet is world wide. Maybe they aren't "National" in the US, but that doesn't keep them from being a valuable resourse. Janice Green >> ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 23:45:18 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: Leaving Capped Honey on Hive In a message dated 97-06-15 08:11:48 EDT, ghankins@ac.net (Greg Hankins) writes: << So, is there anything to this notion that sealed honey improves as it ages in the hive? >> I've never found this true. Dandelion nectar is bitter, but, as soon as it is capped, it is a nice honey. I don't know how the bees work out the bitterness. Likewise goldenrod smells awful and tastes a bit rank when as nectar, but makes a nice, spicy tasting honey when capped. As you say, if you leave comb honey on too long, it will get travel stained. I'd rather not leave it any longer than necessary. There ARE honeys that are gross and rank. But I don't think time will heal them. The bees don't seem to mind getting these for their winter feed. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC 29554 Practical Pollination Page http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 23:50:40 -0700 Reply-To: mwr@hotcity.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: cough drops MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If menthol cough drops work for tracheal mites, what about breath mints for varroa? My personal favorite is Altoid Mints - "The curiously strong mint. So strong it comes in a metal box." If varroa can survive in the presence of Altoid Mints they deserve to live :) On second thought, I have a little trouble surviving an Altoid. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 22:41:39 +1200 Reply-To: beeman@insurer.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jonathan KP Marshall Subject: Re: Artificial insemination MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Garth wrote: > > Hi all > > Anybody on the list tried artificial insemination of queens? > > Keep well > > Garth > --- > Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those > 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about > Grahamstown catfood." > 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* > South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 > > In general, generalisations are bad. > But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. I have, with good results. Jonathan KP Marshall ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 08:19:23 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: Re: Storing Newly Assembled Supers Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Queen Exclusion- >Since I don't have any drawn comb supers, should I put in ten in the supers >instead of nine? Also, I've been advised that the bees will not come up to >work a super with just foundation (which all that I have right now) through >a queen excluder. What's the best way of preventing the queen from coming >up and laying in newly drawn comb in my new shallow supers? Presently, I'm >using two deeps and there's brood in both levels. > >Thanx everyone in advance for your advice, > >Rory Stenerson, >Member, Centre County Beekeepers Association, >V.P., State College Underground Maltsters, >State College, PA U.S.A. >E-mail: 71762.1664@compuserve.com I like excluders but you may do just fine without one. Shake the bees off of 2 frames of brood and place these above the excluder. That should get them going up. You can move the frames back later or simply wait 3 weeks before extracting. oops, I just noticed you are using shallow supers. I will leave this message anyway in case someone can use it as a starting point and give you a better solution. I guess you are experiencing one of the dissadvantages of two sizes of equipment. Eric Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 08:19:25 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: Apitherapy and MS Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have been asked to supply bees to a lady who is interested in treating her MS. Has anyone any experience in this area? I am avoiding recommending bees for any kind of treatment but I am not opposed to supplying bees if she does her own homework and wishes to sting herself. Further, she is on Immurane - which I believe is a suppressant of the imunne system. Might this be something that could further complicate apitherapy? Eric Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 09:13:51 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: William Deer Subject: Re: Extra Strong Mints MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Where are these mints available? Thanks! Bill ---Gus Truscott wrote: > > Hi, > > I claim almost 100% control of both tracheal and varroa mites by > placing one Trebor Extra Strong Mint on top every other brood frame. > I assume that the effect is due to the high level of menthol > contained in Trebor Extra Strong Mints. > > Also, I have found a very rapid knockdown of varroa mites by adding > 3 Eucalyptus 'Tunes' to my smoker. On the packet of these very > effective throat pastilles I note that the ingredients include > Eucalyptus, Menthol, Camphor and HONEY!. > > I am in the habit of smoking myself before working my bees and since > adding 'Tunes' to my smoker I have been completely free of both > headlice and influenza. Food for thought? > > Gus Truscott > _____________________________________________________________________ Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 14:53:34 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: People with too much time on their hands!!!!!!!!!!!!! Comments: To: j_c_truesdell@compuserve.com, ttruesdell@NRP1.newregency.com, Will Truesdell MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Its fun. enjoy Dad ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 14:55:59 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: People with too much time on their hands!!!!!!!!!!!!! Comments: To: j_c_truesdell@compuserve.com, ttruesdell@NRP1.newregency.com, Will Truesdell MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Forget the other post with the references. This is what I ment to send. love Dad John M Thorp wrote: > > I hope all of you guys like this. Some folks when lifes a lemon they make > lemonade,hope you do the same if you're coming up lemons. Blessings! > Take Care and GBY,John in Homestead,also at > > >>>HOLD THE DOWN ARROW KEY AND KEEP IT PRESSED. 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h i s kOo! > >>>Aint t h i s kOo! > >>>Aint t h i s kOo! > >>>Aint th i s kOo! > >>>Aint th i s kOo! > >>>Aint th i s kOo! > >>>Aint th i s kOo! > >>>Aint th i s kOo! > >>>Aint th i s kOo! > >>>Aint th i s k Oo! > >>>Aint th i s k Oo! > >>>Aint th i s k Oo! > >>>Aint th i s k Oo! > >>>Aint th i s k Oo! > >>>Aint thi s k Oo! > >>>Aint thi s k Oo! > >>>Aint thi s k Oo! > >>>Aint thi s k Oo! > >>>Aint thi s k Oo! > >>>Aint thi s k Oo! > >>>Aint thi s k O o! > >>>Aint thi s k O o! > >>>Aint thi s k O o! > >>>Aint thi s k O o! > >>>Aint thi s k O o! > >>>Aint this k O o! > >>>Aint this k O o! > >>>Aint this k O o! > >>>Aint this k O o! > >>>Aint this k O o! > >>>Aint this k O o! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this k O o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kO o ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo ! > >>>Aint this kOo! > >>> > >>> > >>>THIS IS NOT A CHAIN LETTER, BUT PLEASE PASS THIS ON TO AS > >>MANY PEOPLE AS YOU CAN. I WOULD LIKE TO BE RECOGNIZED FOR > >>MY WORK..... THANX > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>>This Particular Work of Art by: > >>>Alex Kubacki > >>> > >> > >> > >International Account > >Representative > > > >Zoom Telephonics, Inc. > >207 South St. > >Boston, MA 02111 > > > >tel: 617.753.0506 > >fax: 617.423.3923 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 15:57:20 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: My Apologies MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry for redistributing the "waste of time" on the list. Deserve all the flack. It was not suppose to go on the list. Still learning how to send email correctly. Bill Truesdell Bath, ME PS. My kids did enjoy it. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 22:59:12 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: New York Beekeepers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of my Rotterdam beekeeping friends will be visiting New York (Manhatten) in July Is there anyone who he can contact out there?? Nice to see the bees on the Empire State building? Bees in Cental park? Shops with beekeeping equipment?? Association of beekeepers?? -- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 homepage webside: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index2.html with some pages in english on solitary bees. NEW PAGES ON THE FIGHT ON THE VARROA MITES. http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/dronemethod.html ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 23:39:37 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kuyckx Maurice Subject: Re: FAQ for rec.gardens.ecosystems Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 07:32 16/06/97 +1100, you wrote: >From: dyanega@mono.icb.ufmg.br (Doug Yanega) > >A point that is NOT a minor one. In the text you posted, virtually every >single time you use the word "bee" you are referring to a single species, >the honeybee, Apis mellifera. There are 30,000 other bee species in the >world, and virtually any garden *in* the world will have a few of those >other species in it, such as bumblebees, carpenter bees, mining bees, >plasterer bees, sweat bees, and more. Most of these bees nest in the >ground, sometimes right *IN* the garden, sometimes in the lawn nearby, or >some species nest in hollow twigs or cavities in wood, in snail shells, and >many other different things. If you are serious about putting together a >FAQ on bees and gardens, I urge you strongly to include as much information >on these other groups of bees as you do on honeybees - these other 30,000 >species deserve at *least* equal time, no? While it is an unfortunate >reality that there is essentially zero POPULAR literature on these other >bees, that does not mean the information is not available, nor of value to >the public. If you already had this in mind, and simply did not post the >pertinent sections of the FAQ, then I apologize. If not, and if you need >background info, or more direct help, let me know. I did my PhD research on >a sweat bee in my driveway in New York City, for example, so I understand >and appreciate the "backyard bee" fauna pretty well, and would be happy to >contribute to the FAQ effort. > Reply from Belgium /Hasselt at 51,2N and 4,06E at 16 jun 23.34 hrs. Many thanks for your reaction, Mister Nick Wallingford, you are so right. P.S Please send me the official name of "Carpenter-bee" Greetings,Sig: Maurice ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 18:10:28 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Re: Apitherapy and MS Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please supply her with the bees. You or her or both can contact the American Apitheripy Society. They have a nice web site. P.S. Someday you may find that you have arthritis (probably). Give bee stings a try. It is surely cheap enough if you have your own bees. And you may be pleasently surprized. There are now several books on this subject. Also a few nights it was on national CBS news that the Multible Sclerosis Society has given $250,000 for research into bee venom!!!! billy bee ---------- > From: Eric Abell > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Apitherapy and MS > Date: 16 juin 1997 10:19 > > I have been asked to supply bees to a lady who is interested in treating her > MS. Has anyone any experience in this area? I am avoiding recommending bees > for any kind of treatment but I am not opposed to supplying bees if she does > her own homework and wishes to sting herself. > > Further, she is on Immurane - which I believe is a suppressant of the imunne > system. Might this be something that could further complicate apitherapy? > > Eric > > Eric Abell > Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 > Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 > eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 18:02:45 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert E Neely Subject: Re: Leaving Capped Honey on Hive Hi Greg: I think that the "Key" is "Sealed Honey". The honey is at peak flavor when capped. Excess moisture has been evaporated out by "Fanning" by the workers. When I did chunk honey, I would sometimes just cut out a strip of pretty capped honey out of the middle of a frame, and just slip the frame back in for the bees to repair and refill. Later you would have to look close to find the spot. (This cannot be done with Duragilt.) This gives a nice clean "Chunk" to slide down in the jar, then finish filling with extracted honey. Bob Neely Goose Creek, SC neely-bee@juno.com On Sun, 15 Jun 1997 08:10:57 +0100 Greg Hankins writes: >It's not clear that this will become an issue for me this year, since >I'm >working with two new hives from packages, but I'm curious anyway . . . > >Reading ABC & XYZ, I've several times seen references to the >improvement of >homey as it ages in the hive. Sometimes this statement comes in a >section >on a particularly pungent honey (sumac or dandelion), and suggests >that the >pungency dissapates and the honey improves in the hive. Other >references >suggst that honey generally improves as it ages in the hive. I'm >reasonably >sure that the authors are talking about *sealed* honey improving over >time >in the hive. > >As a hobbyist, I can easily pull a super (or even individual frames) >at any >point after they are sealed. Since I plan to package my honey >chunk-style, >I probably want reasonably clean caps, and I've read that they can >becom >travel-stained over time. > >So, is there anything to this notion that sealed honey improves as it >ages >in the hive? > >Greg > >____________________________________________________ >Greg Hankins Mt. Gilead, NC >ghankins@ac.net > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 22:25:54 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Beverly Ellen Stanley Subject: Re: Apitherapy and MS A friend of my sister who has MS has considered doing the same thing this past year, but has opted not to since the medication she was taking apparently was adequate. I told her not to pay for the bees since we have plenty, but I'm glad you brought up those points. If she does come to me for the bees, I will ask those questions of her. Thank you for your post. Bev ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 22:57:33 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: L M SMITH Subject: Re: Apitherapy and MS I have been doing apitherapy for two years now because of my ms. I would like to suggest your friend contact others who are doing it and also the American Apitherapy Society at Http://www.beesting.com before she tries it. It is imperative that anyone who tries it have a beesting kit prescribed from a doctor just in case there is an allergic reaction. take care, Lois Smith ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 09:01:38 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 15 Jun 1997 to 16 Jun 1997 In-Reply-To: > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 08:19:23 -0600 > From: Eric Abell > Subject: Re: Storing Newly Assembled Supers > > >Queen Exclusion- > >Since I don't have any drawn comb supers, should I put in ten in the supers > >instead of nine? Also, I've been advised that the bees will not come up to > >work a super with just foundation (which all that I have right now) through > >a queen excluder. What's the best way of preventing the queen from coming > >up and laying in newly drawn comb in my new shallow supers? Presently, I'm > >using two deeps and there's brood in both levels. > > > >Thanx everyone in advance for your advice, > > > >Rory Stenerson, > >Member, Centre County Beekeepers Association, > >V.P., State College Underground Maltsters, > >State College, PA U.S.A. > >E-mail: 71762.1664@compuserve.com > > I like excluders but you may do just fine without one. Shake the bees off > of 2 frames of brood and place these above the excluder. That should get > them going up. You can move the frames back later or simply wait 3 weeks > before extracting. > > oops, I just noticed you are using shallow supers. I will leave this > message anyway in case someone can use it as a starting point and give you a > better solution. I guess you are experiencing one of the dissadvantages of > two sizes of equipment. If you put two shallow supers on top of each other and leave a gap in the middle of both a deep super fits through into the gap, so if you are using deep brood and shallow supers, you can quite easily draw deep frames or use deep frames to get the bees drawing (doe'snt work as well) Keep well Garth --- Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about Grahamstown catfood." 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 In general, generalisations are bad. But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 22:16:59 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Glass honey bears from England Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" E.H. THORNE (BEEHIVES) LTD. Beehives Works, Wragby, Market Rasen, Lincs. LN8 5LA has glass honey bears illustrated in its catalogue. Price list issued March 1997price list is 76p excl. VAT, 90p. incl. VAT. Contact information - telephone 01673858555 - Fax: 01673958004 - email thorne@dial.pipex.com http://www.thorne.co.uk >Does anyone know a supplier of glass honey jars from England (?) shaped like >a bear? > > HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Queen cells... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello all Here's a conundrum for you. At least it appears to be one to me.... I was looking through a colony that I got about a week or so ago as a swarm. So far only 4 frames have brood in them. On one frame I saw at least 4 Queen cells. All but one were at or near the bottom of the frame, and the other was half way up. So they should be considered Swarm Cells; but why would a very recent swarm, swarm again, especially when there is a lot of room in the colony and 6 frames not even drawn out yet? Any thoughts? Ian Watson ian@gardener.com St. Catharines, Canada (near Niagara Falls) real estate agent gardener homebrewer baritone beekeeper---> 7 colonies, 3 nucs on order ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 17:41:58 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: big city beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of my other Rotterdam beekeeping friends asked: He is eekeeping in the Centre of "big city" Rotterdam on his terrace on the second floor. what to do with: - laying workers hive - drone brood queen - very agressive hive -- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 homepage webside: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index2.html with some pages in english on solitary bees. NEW PAGES ON THE FIGHT ON THE VARROA MITES. http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/dronemethod.html ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 13:48:26 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Stan Sandler Subject: Re: Queen cells... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >but why would a very recent swarm, swarm again, especially when there is a >lot of room in the colony and 6 frames not even drawn out yet? Hi Ian: I think they are most likely supersedure cells. Hives generally swarm with the old queen and then replace her shortly after. The position of the cells is not an absolute indicator of their type, and in a small colony they could be anywhere that they had an opportune location. Regards, Stan ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 13:11:42 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Berube Subject: INSECT ART (ESPECIALLY BEES) ON SHIRTS Comments: To: ENTOMO-L@LISTSERV.UOGUELPH.CA Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I've renovated my website and added a portion in which you can purchase reproductions of original insect art on T-shirts or sweat-shirts (or even stationery or iron-on transfers-- sorry couldn't figure out how to do tatoos through cyberspace ;-) If you'd like to garb yourself in grubs or bedeck yourself in bees use the following links as you would a bookmark file. (You can clip the portion below, save it as a file and, once on-line and in your browser, you can use the "open file" option (by typing in or clicking on the directory and filename you assign to this file) then double click on the colored portions to link to the sites). If you have any problems or questions, please let me know, Thanks!:

Insect Art Gallery (+ T-shirt and sweatshirt sales) The Insecty-side (entomology-related cartoons and associated essays)

Bee stuff

Insect Fact Sheets

Links to other websites

IPM, beekeeping, insect art, and entomology info Hope you enjoy the new pages.
- Conrad Berube
" ` ISLAND CROP MANAGEMENT
" ` 613 Hecate St.
_- -_`-_|'\ /` Nanaimo, B.C.
_/ / / -' `~()() V9R 4K4
\_\ _ /\-._/\/ (250)754-2482; fax (250)656-8922
/ | | email: uc779@freenet.victoria.bc.ca
'` ^ ^ website: http://pinc.com/~bwarner/
========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 18:28:59 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Clip art Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone know about the clip art that is downloadable from, I think, the Honey Board? billy bee ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 18:32:46 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Wolford MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Tuesday, June 7, I installed a package of bees into a new hive along with a queen. They have so far consumed about a gallon and a half of sugar syrup (1:1) to stimulate them. They appear to be doing well. 1. I placed 4 combs of drawn comb in the hive at the time I installed them. How long should I wait until I notice capped brood? 2. How long should I continue feeding syrup to them? John M. Wolford jmwolford@kih.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 10:41:01 +1200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Cliff Van Eaton Subject: Re: propolis and food preservation Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Matt Allan recently asked about background information on propolis as a food preservative. One of the best sources I know of for background information on propolis and other bee products is Krell, R. 1996. Value-added products from beekeeping. Food and Agriculture Organisation of the UN, Agriculture Services Bulletin 124. The book is available from the International Bee Research Association (see their web page). According to Krell, the antioxidant, antimicrobial and antifungal activities of propolis offer scope for applications in food technology. In Japan, a patent has been registered for use of propolis as a preservative in packing material. In that country frozen fish are also preserved with propolis. The preservation is said to extend the storage life of fish by 2-3 times. Krell also gives a reference for use of propolis for post-harvest treatment and conservation of fruits. The reference is Sangalli, A. 1990. La propoli. L'Ape Nostra Amica 12(4): 16-25. Maybe an Italian subscriber to BEE-L will be able to provide further information about that reference. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 19:22:08 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Theda Jeanell Davis Subject: NewBee Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hi. I am a new beekeeper with 1 Hive of bees that are flourishing. The hive has 2 Brood chambers that are just about filled with brood and honey. Last week I put a shallow super on for honey. The bees were purchaced in April and are All American variety from a dealer in Texas. Now for my questions....... 1. I have recently noticed bees that have a white or light yellow patch of hair?? on the top of their bodies. Appears to be less than 1-2 % of the bees have this appearance. Is this natural or does it indicate a problem? 2. I just inspected the top brood box. Found plenty of brood and honey. I noticed quite a few areas where the comb is not flat with the face of the frames. Rather, there are sections of comb where the cells are parallel with the face of the frame. What are these? Are they drone cells? Is this a problem? 3. And finally, I followed some of the discussion threads and read some books about the pros and cons with using 10 versus 9 frames in the brood chambers. I jumped out there and decided to try 9 in order to enhance ventilation ( live in Texas and it gets quite warm ). What should I monitor to see if this causes a problem or is better for the bees? Any help would be appreciated......... ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 22:22:42 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Debbie Hutchings Subject: varroa mites.... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Everyone! I have been thinking (which is sometimes dangerous) about how I could control this mite. I have this idea about putting one frame of drone foundation in each hive, then, before the drones are just about to hatch, I would take the frame from the hive and distroy the drones and then return the frame back to the hive to start all over again. I was reading that about 75 % to 80 % of the mites reproduce in drone brood cells, therefore if I do this I could possibly control or eliminate 75 % to 80 % of the varroa in the hives. Also if this could work I would have to find a way to make sure I killed all the mites hiding in the comb before returning it back to the hives. I know that a frame of drone brood would be taking up room in my hives, but if this could help control this mite it could be worth the sacrificed worker brood. How long can varroa survive without a host? Maybe I could have two drone frames and rotate them each time, that way I could kill the mites by starvation? I would still continue with conventional treatments..Fall & Spring. Anyone like to comment on this idea? Lets brain storm. Have a happy day! Debbie from Canada. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 19:52:19 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: adony melathopoulos Subject: Re: drone trapping a la Debbie Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Debbie : This is a very good idea. I believe Jan Templeman has a web site on the topic of trapping mites in drone brood (I have only looked at it quickly). I have a few points that may help smooth your idea out : At 10:22 PM 6/17/97 -0400, you wrote: >I have been thinking (which is sometimes dangerous) about how I could >control this mite. I have this idea about putting one frame of drone >foundation in each hive, then, before the drones are just about to hatch, I You do not need drone foundation specifically. If you rip a large hole in the center of a ratty old frame with worker cells and place it into a booming colony, the workers will draw the cells out in the hole as drone brood. Alternatively a friend of mine has used a smooth plastic sheet as foundation, and the workers draw the majority of those cells out as drone cells. Mark your specific drone frames and store them. You now have a battery of drone frames to drop into your colonies in the spring and summer to suck of your varroa. >would take the frame from the hive and distroy the drones and then return >the frame back to the hive to start all over again. I was reading that >about 75 % to 80 % of the mites reproduce in drone brood cells, therefore >if I do this I could possibly control or eliminate 75 % to 80 % of the >varroa in the hives. Also if this could work I would have to find a way to >make sure I killed all the mites hiding in the comb before returning it >back to the hives. Well, the method I have seen most used is not to even let the drones emerge. Take your drone-trap frame soon after it is sealed place it in the freezer overnight. You will be left with drone-varroa popsicles (fully and completely dead). To clean the trap frames out put it back into a strong hive and the worker will clean them up (one German beekeeper saves the workers the work and places the comb on the lawn and watches the robins peck merclessly at those varroa infested frames - gives him some satisfaction I suppose). Reuse your frames. Believe me whole lot of Varroa will be in those drone cells. I do not know how many drone frames or with what frequency the frames need to be used. I suspect there are studies from Europe (the Netherlands in particular) that have worked this out. Nonetheless I think anyone who has time on their hand should try it out. I think before experimenting with any sparcely studied varroa treatments (drone trapping, essential oils, throat losenges, etc..) good working knowledge of Varroa sampling techniques (in particular natural sticky board drops) needs to be achieved. With before and after sticky board counts (or at least after) on hand you can go back and retreat or clean up the mess with Apistan if the experimental treatment does not pan out. I'd love to hear testimonials of people's experience with drone trapping. Drop me a line any time. Sincerely Adony... also from Canada Oh, P.S. >I know that a frame of drone brood would be taking up >room in my hives, but if this could help control this mite it could be >worth the sacrificed worker brood. Maybe you'd be doing a big favour to colony productivity (just a guess). Drones are reaered but never get the opportunity to drain the colony of resources as adults (because they never make it that far). Also, perhaps all you do by putting a lot of drone brood on one frame is you reduce its scattering around the colony. Essentially you rear the same amount of drone brood, except you have forced the colony to put it all in one spot at one time (a real big guess, and i'm probably talking out my butt here). >Maybe I could have two drone frames and rotate them each time, that >way I could kill the mites by starvation? I would still continue with >conventional treatments..Fall & Spring. Oh, I don't get what you are saying here. *********************************** ** Adony P. Melathopoulos ********* *** Center for Pest Management **** **** Simon Fraser University ****** ***** Burnaby, British Columbia *** ****** Canada, V5A-1S6 ************ *********************************** Tel : (604) 291-4163 Fax : (604) 291-3496 e-mail : melathop@sfu.ca "The pursuit of agriculture promotes the strength of the mind as well as the body" - Rev. John L. Blake, 1853 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 22:01:17 +0000 Reply-To: barry@birkey.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: Birkey.Com Subject: Re: varroa mites.... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie Hutchings wrote: > > Hi Everyone! > I have been thinking (which is sometimes dangerous) about how I could > control this mite. I have this idea about putting one frame of drone > foundation in each hive, then, before the drones are just about to hatch, I > would take the frame from the hive and distroy the drones and then return > the frame back to the hive to start all over again. I was reading that Debbie - I think you will find that this method is already being used quite extensively in Europe and Jan has explained it in detail on his web site at: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/dronemethod.html Take a look. Regards -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 23:25:12 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Debbie Hutchings Subject: Varroa mite MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Maybe I could have two drone frames and rotate them each time, that >way I could kill the mites by starvation? I would still continue with >conventional treatments..Fall & Spring Thank You Adony for your letter! What I ment by having two frames of drone brood and then rotating them was just an idea I had about how I could kill the varroa in the drone cells without using chemicals. I would just put one frame in, wait till the drones were capprd over, then take that frame out and put the other in. I would clean the drones out of the cells and then by the time the other frame was ready to come out, any remaining varroa would have starved to death then insuring me that the frame was safe to use again. But I like your idea of frozen varroa popcicles better. What I'm saying about conventional treatments is that I would still continue using apistan and formic acid, spring and fall. Regards Debbie from Canada ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 22:45:43 +0000 Reply-To: barry@birkey.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: Birkey.Com Subject: Re: Varroa mite MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie Hutchings wrote: > What I'm saying about conventional treatments is that I would still > continue using apistan and formic acid, spring and fall. Debbie - This seems like big time overkill to me. If you are going to go to the effort of trapping the varroa with drone comb (which will be far more labor intensive than putting two strips of Apistan in), why would you want to also treat with Apistan and on top of that twice a year? Our goal should be to use any chemical only as much that is needed to do the job. I would suggest you approach it as Adony mentioned " With before and after sticky board counts (or at least after) on hand you can go back and retreat or clean up the mess with Apistan if the experimental treatment does not pan out" and only use the Apistan if it deems necessary. Jan also has info about Apistan on the same page that would be worth reading. I hope you do in fact try the drone comb method and report back on how it worked for you. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 00:04:16 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Debbie Hutchings Subject: Varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Barry! I just visited the web site you suggested and I can learn a lot there. As for the over kill, I ment that when all said and done, I was going to alternate , eg. formic in the spring and apistan in the fall and it would be only if need be. Probably by doing drone trapping method I would only have to do the fall treatment. I am in a very bad area for varroa mite, and we are just new to the situation and how to treat it. I never knew about varroa untill this year. Thank You, and I need all the help from expereinced beekeepers I can get! Debbie ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 09:16:29 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Walton Subject: Re: NewBee Questions In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 In article , Theda Jeanell Davis writes > >1. I have recently noticed bees that have a white or light yellow patch >of hair?? on the top of their bodies. Appears to be less than 1-2 % of >the bees have this appearance. Is this natural or does it indicate a >problem? > My guess is that they are newly emerged bees. No Problem. >2. I just inspected the top brood box. Found plenty of brood and >honey. I noticed quite a few areas where the comb is not flat with the >face of the frames. Rather, there are sections of comb where the cells >are parallel with the face of the frame. What are these? Are they drone >cells? Is this a problem? > It could be that your frame spacing is not quite right. If you are using frames with Hoffman spacers, make sure that they are pushed up tight together. >3. And finally, I followed some of the discussion threads and read some >books about the pros and cons with using 10 versus 9 frames in the brood >chambers. I jumped out there and decided to try 9 in order to enhance >ventilation ( live in Texas and it gets quite warm ). What should I >monitor to see if this causes a problem or is better for the bees? You may already be experiencing the problem (see 2). If you are not using all of the space in a brood box, use a follower board up against the last frame to keep the area confined. Otherwise, the bees will just fill up this "dead-space" with comb. -- Paul Walton Email : Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk Toddington, Bedfordshire, England. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 14:55:21 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "THONE HUGO VE144 (240)9452" Subject: Re: big city beekeeping In-Reply-To: <33A6B045.359A@xs4all.nl> MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII >One of my other Rotterdam beekeeping friends asked: >He is eekeeping in the Centre of "big city" Rotterdam >on his terrace on the second floor. >what to do with: >- laying workers hive >- drone brood queen >- very agressive hive Burn it ! Hugo +++++ Hugo Thone (SE144) (\ {|||8- ALCATEL TELECOM (/ F.Wellesplein 1 B-2018 Antwerp do bee do bee do .... email : thoneh@btmaa.bel.alcatel.be phone : (32) 3 240 94 52 fax : (32) 3 240 99 50 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 11:33:47 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: cough drops Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:59 PM 6/14/97 -0500, you wrote: >www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee >Greetings! > I have received this e-mail message. Would anyone care to comment? >Another silver bullet,perhaps? >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >------------------------------------------- > >Bee farmers in southern U.S. tell me to use Hall's Ice Blue cough drops > for hive treatment [ 4 drops at 12 mgs a drop]. Bees consume the > drops. They swear it works.Is this so. > IT works for what???????????? ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 12:45:18 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: Re: NewBee Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Theda Jeanell Davis wrote: >>Hi. I am a new beekeeper with 1 Hive of bees that are flourishing. Th= e hive has 2 Brood chambers that are just about filled with brood and honey. Last week I put a shallow super on for honey. The bees were purchaced in April and are All American variety from a dealer in Texas. Now for my questions.......<< Welcome to beekeeping! You purchased some good bees from a very reputabl= e package producer. I hope this all works out for you. >>1. I have recently noticed bees that have a white or light yellow patc= h of hair?? on the top of their bodies. Appears to be less than 1-2 % of the bees have this appearance. Is this natural or does it indicate a problem?<< This is most likely pollen caught in the hairs on the backs of the forage= r bees. Since you say that you can see it, I'm assuming that you're watchi= ng from outside the hive. If that's the case, you're seeing pollen. Right= now in my part of Texas, the horsemint is blooming like crazy. My bees a= re coming in coated with horsemint pollen. I don't know where you are but feel free to tell us. >>2. I just inspected the top brood box. Found plenty of brood and honey. I noticed quite a few areas where the comb is not flat with the face of the frames. Rather, there are sections of comb where the cells are parallel with the face of the frame. What are these? Are they drone cells? Is this a problem?<< This is probably burr or brace comb that the bees have built. Reading further I realized that you spaced your frames with only 9 frames in a brood chamber. This was ill advised in my opinion, especially if they we= re drawing out comb. I would only space combs with 9 frames after they were= fully drawn out. Otherwise you're encouraging them to build burr comb. = The way to fix this is remove the burr comb and add the tenth frame until= it is all fully drawn. I have not seen a benefit to spacing 9 frames in = a brood chamber. I have seen an advantage to spacing 9 frames in honey supers. It discourages the queen from moving up and the bees will cap of= f the honey very high so that uncapping is a breeze. >>3. And finally, I followed some of the discussion threads and read som= e books about the pros and cons with using 10 versus 9 frames in the brood chambers. I jumped out there and decided to try 9 in order to enhance ventilation ( live in Texas and it gets quite warm ). What should I monitor to see if this causes a problem or is better for the bees?<< For ventilation I recommend that you use telescoping covers with an inner= cover. Don't put the telescoping cover all the way over the inner cover.= = Instead, place the front lip of the telescoping cover on the front edge o= f the inner cover. This provides a way for hot air to rise out of the hive= , turns the outer cover into a shade board of sorts and gives the bees room= to hang out when they want to be out of the hive to keep heat down. You place the front lip flush with the front of the hive so that rain runs of= f to the back of the hive, not the landing board where it can flood the bottom board and cause a moisture problem in the hive. Another thing I have experimented with this year is cutting a 1" hole in = an end of the top honey super, right below the hand-hold. I've done this an= d I always see bees fanning for all they are worth at this hole, moving hot= air out of the hive and curing honey. BTW, the hives that have this hole= have consistently capped off more honey than hives that don't have this hole. = Ted Wout Red Oak, TX ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 18:19:45 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: big city beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable THONE HUGO VE144 (240)9452 wrote: > = > >One of my other Rotterdam beekeeping friends asked: > >He is eekeeping in the Centre of "big city" Rotterdam > >on his terrace on the second floor. > >what to do with: > >- laying workers hive > >- drone brood queen > >- very agressive hive > = > Burn it ! > = > Hugo > = burning in town (open fire) will be a penalty of I fl 150,- ( US$ 75,-) -- = Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 homepage webside: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index2.html with some pages in english on solitary bees. NEW PAGES ON THE FIGHT ON THE VARROA MITES. http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/dronemethod.html ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 18:37:49 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: drone trapping a la Debbie MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit adony melathopoulos wrote: > > Well, the method I have seen most used is not to even let the drones emerge. > Take your drone-trap frame soon after it is sealed place it in the freezer > overnight. You will be left with drone-varroa popsicles (fully and > completely dead). To clean the trap frames out put it back into a strong > hive and the worker will clean them up (one German beekeeper saves the > workers the work and places the comb on the lawn and watches the robins peck > merclessly at those varroa infested frames - gives him some satisfaction I > suppose). Reuse your frames. Believe me whole lot of Varroa will be in > those drone cells. eat them (the drone pulpa) they are delicious I'am serious!! -- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 homepage webside: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index2.html with some pages in english on solitary bees. NEW PAGES ON THE FIGHT ON THE VARROA MITES. http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/dronemethod.html ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 14:58:05 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Verville Subject: Re: big city beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit THONE HUGO VE144 (240)9452 wrote: > > >One of my other Rotterdam beekeeping friends asked: > >He is eekeeping in the Centre of "big city" Rotterdam > >on his terrace on the second floor. > >what to do with: > >- laying workers hive > >- drone brood queen > >- very agressive hive > > Burn it ! > > Hugo > > +++++ > > Hugo Thone (SE144) (\ > {|||8- > ALCATEL TELECOM (/ > F.Wellesplein 1 > B-2018 Antwerp do bee do bee do .... > > email : thoneh@btmaa.bel.alcatel.be > phone : (32) 3 240 94 52 > fax : (32) 3 240 99 50 Oh come on now, laying worker shake them up and requeen with a nuc. and the others are just calling for a new queen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 17:02:22 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Richard Drutchas Organization: Bee Haven Honey Subject: honey prices MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can anyone explain to me why honey prices are supposedly dropping. I have been told that Argentina had a good crop and the Germans didnt buy it so they dropped the price to around .70. Come on guys we got the price where it should be lets keep it up around a dollar a pound in the barrel. The market didnt fold at that price we know now what the market will bear so why back it down. The retail prices are not going to go down so if you sell cheap its the middle men that make out not the ones who are actually doing the work. Its an age old story isnt it, we hold our hats in our hand and get told the price according to supply and demand. Its hard for me to understand why Dutch Gold and all the big packers cant keep the price up to where it should be. They must realize we are thier bread and honey. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 17:41:14 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Debbie Hutchings Subject: Varorra device MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Johann ! I was wondering if you could give me the address of where I could view your varorra device? Cheers: Debbie from Canada ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 18:27:48 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Debbie Hutchings Subject: varroa? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit OOOpps Like my spelling? Ha ! varrora should be varroa. Humor me; Debbie ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 22:45:16 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert Watson Subject: Re: varroa? In-Reply-To: <199706182231.SAA03956@mail.peterboro.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Wed, 18 Jun 1997, Debbie Hutchings wrote: > OOOpps > > Like my spelling? Ha ! > varrora should be varroa. > > Humor me; No ...I don't like your spelling... All Canadians should spell "Humour" correctly!!!!! Sorry.... I'm just joking! You started it! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 14:58:42 +1100 Reply-To: p.bray@airborne.co.nz Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Peter Bray Organization: Airborne Honey Subject: Fire damaged supers - Insurance claims In-Reply-To: <339E05D4.C49E.018D.000@crop.cri.nz> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT We have just had a total loss of a number of supers in a fire. Has anyone had expericence in assessing the value of a super and frames based on cost of : super, frames, labour, paint, nails, wire, foundations etc. but importantly the cost of having the foundation drawn into comb? I am aware of the various research for conversion of honey into wax i.e. 1:7 to 1:18 - take your pick........ but from a practical point of view, can anyone indicate past experiences with this situ? TIA Peter Bray, Airborne Honey Ltd., PO Box 28, Leeston, New Zealand Fax 64-3-324-3236, Phone 64-3-324-3569 p.bray@airborne.co.nz ---------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 22:35:14 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Carlson@netins.net" Organization: http://www.netins.net/showcase/goldenoak/gof.htm Subject: When and how to add honey supers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry, ....... This is a newbee question... I think that I am ready to add honey supers... Do I add two or three at one time? OR do I add them as they use them up..? ALSO.. Do you move or switch the frames so the bees fill them all up? Or let them build in their circular pattern? Thanks.. Roger Carlson -- Visit us: at the Farm: "http://www.netins.net/showcase/goldenoak/gof.htm" at Aledo Time "http://www.netins.net/showcase/goldenoak/att.htm" ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 06:56:23 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: varroa? In a message dated 97-06-19 03:46:08 EDT, you write: << > Like my spelling? Ha ! > varrora should be varroa. > >> Varrora is what a queenless hive sounds like ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:57:06 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Greg Hankins Subject: Re: NewBee Questions In-Reply-To: <199706181245_MC2-18BE-B084@compuserve.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Ted Wout Wrote: >I have not seen a benefit to spacing 9 frames in a >brood chamber. I have seen an advantage to spacing 9 frames in honey >supers. It discourages the queen from moving up and the bees will cap off >the honey very high so that uncapping is a breeze. > I'm about to put the first honey super, filled with foundation not drawn comb, on the most populous of my two colonies (both established from packages this spring). I'm wary of using a queen excluder because of suggestions I've seen on this list that the bees will be reluctant to move up through an excluder to draw foundation. On the other hand, I'd rather keep the brrod and pollen out of the super. (And, as prolific as this queen seems to be, I bet she'd move up to use the space in a heartbeat!) If 9-frame spacing will accomplish keeping the queen down without discouraging the workers from drawing comb, I might be interested in trying it. Of course, since I plan to pack the harvest chunk or cut-comb style and hand press any honey to extract it, Maybe I shouldn't worrk and just assume I can cut around any brood or pollen. Anyone else find that 9-frame spacing in supers helps exclude the queen? Greg ______________________________________________________________ Greg Hankins Montgomery Packaging ghankins@ac.net Troy, North Carolina Voice: (910)576-0067 Fax: (910)576-0367 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 22:56:10 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Web Site Promotion For those of you on this list that have Web Sites, you may be interested in checking out: http://www.virtualpromotion.com/home.html They offer a " free " Weekly Gazette on Web-Site Promotion. Al, ---- 'Mail To:awneedham@juno.com' - Scituate,MA,USA Honey Bees & Beekeeping - Or - Doktor Finkle ....... http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ....... Check Out Our Unique T-Shirt/Sweatshirt Stuff! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 17:10:20 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Leigh Wiley Subject: I tried using mineral oil on my bees and was surprised by 1) the uproar it caused ( it appeared to disrupt the hives for the rest of the day), and 2) the several dozen dead bees on the bottom boards 1/2 hour later! I was really concerned that I might have done in the queen but it appears that the ones that died were the ones hit directly by the oil as I applied it. Still I have some concerns about using oil for this reason. I used a honey bear squeeze jar to apply but perhaps the hole was too big? The mineral oil was labled as being for "intestinal use". Any suggestions? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 19:18:33 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: Re: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Leigh, Used the same mineral oil and the did the same with the Bear. In the morning everything seemed OK. I had one more out yard to do in the afternoon and it was hot and the hive was large. Went down to the brood and put my beed of oil. The bees started an uproar as you said. I tried to get the other supers back on and the bees wouldn't quit. The oil spread out when it was too hot. On the other hives the bead sort of stayed together. Can anyone give us some more information?? billy bee Valley Lee Maryland, U.S.A. ---------- > From: Leigh Wiley > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: > Date: 19 juin 1997 17:10 > > I tried using mineral oil on my bees and was surprised by 1) the uproar > it caused ( it appeared to disrupt the hives for the rest of the day), > and 2) the several dozen dead bees on the bottom boards 1/2 hour later! > I was really concerned that I might have done in the queen but it > appears that the ones that died were the ones hit directly by the oil as > I applied it. Still I have some concerns about using oil for this > reason. I used a honey bear squeeze jar to apply but perhaps the hole > was too big? The mineral oil was labled as being for "intestinal use". > Any suggestions? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 19:03:17 -0600 Reply-To: Charles Harper Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Charles Harper Subject: Re: NewBee Questions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:57:06 -0400, Greg Hankins wrote: >Ted Wout Wrote: > >>I have not seen a benefit to spacing 9 frames in a >>brood chamber. I have seen an advantage to spacing 9 frames in honey >>supers. It discourages the queen from moving up and the bees will cap off >>the honey very high so that uncapping is a breeze. If the super is foundation then i would put in ten frames in the super, then when the bees start drawing the foundation insert the excluder to keep the queen out. Nine frames will not keep the queen out if there is no place for her to lay, also make shure the queen is not in the super when you insert the queen excluder. Charles Harper Harper's Honey farm 1000 + Colonies ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 22:01:12 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Richard E Leber Subject: Re: Clip art On Tue, 17 Jun 1997 18:28:59 -0400 bartlett writes: >Does anyone know about the clip art that is downloadable from, I >think, > >the Honey Board? > billy bee > Hi ya'll & Billy Bee Check the National Honey Board Web Site at http://www.nhb.org Rick Leber, Beekeeping Since 1987 Mobile, Alabama ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 21:03:34 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Queen cells... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Ian Watson writes: >I was looking through a colony that I got about a week or so ago as a >swarm. So far only 4 frames have brood in them. On one frame I saw at >least 4 Queen cells. All but one were at or near the bottom of the frame, >and the other was half way up. So they should be considered Swarm Cells; >but why would a very recent swarm, swarm again, especially when there is a >lot of room in the colony and 6 frames not even drawn out yet? > >Any thoughts? > Did you see the queen? If the hive from which the swarm issued had not swarmed for a year or so due to climate or food supply considerations, the queen may well be running out of steam. The hive would supersede immediately they pick up a weakness in the queen's laying pattern. Alternatively, the queen may have died accidentally, either when you handled the hive or through other causes so the hive has selected freshly hatched larvae to breed a replacement. Betty McAdam> HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam From: Barry Birkey Organization: Birkey.Com Subject: Re: Web Site Promotion MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Albert W Needham wrote: > > For those of you on this list that have Web Sites, > you may be interested in checking out: > > http://www.virtualpromotion.com/home.html Hi Al - Are you sure this is the correct address? I keep getting a "Netscape unable to locate server" message. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 08:10:55 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Read !! AND UNDERSTAND !! the instructions first!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT > Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 17:10:20 EDT > From: Leigh Wiley > Subject: > > I tried using mineral oil on my bees and was surprised by 1) the > uproar it caused ( it appeared to disrupt the hives for the rest of > the day), and 2) the several dozen dead bees on the bottom boards 1/2 > hour later! I was really concerned that I might have done in the queen > but it appears that the ones that died were the ones hit directly by the > oil as I applied it. Still I have some concerns about using oil for this > reason. I used a honey bear squeeze jar to apply but perhaps the hole > was too big? The mineral oil was labled as being for "intestinal use". > Any suggestions? > Yes, a suggestion is to read the instructions first! I don't know where you got the idea of using a honey bear to squirt the mineral oil onto the top bars, but that's not what Dr. Rodriguez recommended and in fact if you had bothered to investigate his proposal you would have found cautions against using too much FOOD GRADE mineral oil in the hive. Dr. R cautioned that too much mineral oil will have the same effect on your bees as it will on the target mites, and that effect is DEATH! Armed with the idea that mineral oil will cure mites is as we say in the systems programming business, "knowing enough to be dangerous!". Please folks, if you're going to try Dr. R's treatment, read the instructions first. If you haven't read instructions or haven't heard Dr. R speak or don't understand fully the mechanisms behind his recommended treatments, DON'T USE THEM! If you understand fully his proposed treatments you will understand that you too are experimenting with an as yet unsanctioned (and to my knowledge unpublished) treatment and there is room for your experiments to go awry. Forgive my tirade, but when I read of some half cocked application offing ones' bees as warned, I get upset! Aaron Morris - Thinking a little knowledge is a dangerous thing! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 08:26:47 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Arthur Subject: Re: Read !! AND UNDERSTAND !! the instructions first!!! In-Reply-To: <970620.081314.EDT.SYSAM@cnsibm.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII This is cut out of the instructions from Dr. Rodriguez At present, oil is applied from a bottle (similar to a honey bear) with a spout with an opening of 1/16" diameter. Oil is applied steadily, along the top bars leaving a continuous line of oil measuring approximately the size of a thin noodle. So don/t get in such an uproar.. Jim ------------------------------------------------------------------- Wife and Dog missing Reward for Dog ------------------------------------------------------------------- On Fri, 20 Jun 1997, Aaron Morris wrote: > > Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 17:10:20 EDT > > From: Leigh Wiley > > Subject: > > > > I tried using mineral oil on my bees and was surprised by 1) the > > uproar it caused ( it appeared to disrupt the hives for the rest of > > the day), and 2) the several dozen dead bees on the bottom boards 1/2 > > hour later! I was really concerned that I might have done in the queen > > but it appears that the ones that died were the ones hit directly by the > > oil as I applied it. Still I have some concerns about using oil for this > > reason. I used a honey bear squeeze jar to apply but perhaps the hole > > was too big? The mineral oil was labled as being for "intestinal use". > > Any suggestions? > > > > Yes, a suggestion is to read the instructions first! I don't know where > you got the idea of using a honey bear to squirt the mineral oil onto > the top bars, but that's not what Dr. Rodriguez recommended and in fact > if you had bothered to investigate his proposal you would have found > cautions against using too much FOOD GRADE mineral oil in the hive. Dr. > R cautioned that too much mineral oil will have the same effect on your > bees as it will on the target mites, and that effect is DEATH! > Armed with the idea that mineral oil will cure mites is as we say in > the systems programming business, "knowing enough to be dangerous!". > Please folks, if you're going to try Dr. R's treatment, read the > instructions first. If you haven't read instructions or haven't heard > Dr. R speak or don't understand fully the mechanisms behind his > recommended treatments, DON'T USE THEM! If you understand fully his > proposed treatments you will understand that you too are experimenting > with an as yet unsanctioned (and to my knowledge unpublished) treatment > and there is room for your experiments to go awry. > > Forgive my tirade, but when I read of some half cocked application > offing ones' bees as warned, I get upset! > > Aaron Morris - Thinking a little knowledge is a dangerous thing! > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 08:39:29 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: I stand corrected MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT > > This is cut out of the instructions from Dr. Rodriguez > > "At present, oil is applied from a bottle (similar to a honey bear) > with a spout with an opening of 1/16" diameter. Oil is applied > steadily, along the top bars leaving a continuous line of oil > measuring approximately the size of a thin noodle. > > So don/t get in such an uproar.. > > Jim Well, I must issue a public apology. I attended ABF in Virginia in January specifically to hear what Dr. Rodriguez had to say. There, he was very careful to stress that a very small amount of FGMO was used, smeared on strips of waxxed paper. I was not aware that the application method has changed and I must admit that I am guilty of that which I cautioned against, having not read the latest instructions. However in my defense I'm not using FGMO in my hives either. Getting back to the original question, "Any suggestions?", I'll stick to my original evaluation that the amount of FGMO squirted on the top bars was more than the "recommended" amount. Aaron Morris - thinking crow is not such a bad dish. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 07:54:39 +0000 Reply-To: barry@birkey.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: Birkey.Com Subject: Re: Read !! AND UNDERSTAND !! the instructions first!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Aaron Morris wrote: > > > Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 17:10:20 EDT > > From: Leigh Wiley > > Subject: > > > > I tried using mineral oil on my bees and was surprised by 1) the > > uproar it caused ( it appeared to disrupt the hives for the rest of > > the day), and 2) the several dozen dead bees on the bottom boards 1/2 > > hour later! I was really concerned that I might have done in the queen > > but it appears that the ones that died were the ones hit directly by the > > oil as I applied it. Still I have some concerns about using oil for this > > reason. I used a honey bear squeeze jar to apply but perhaps the hole > > was too big? The mineral oil was labled as being for "intestinal use". > > Any suggestions? > > > > Forgive my tirade, but when I read of some half cocked application > offing ones' bees as warned, I get upset! You may want to check back over the words that Dr R. did say to this list, " At present, oil is applied from a bottle (similar to a honey bear) with a spout with an opening of 1/16" diameter." It may well be a half cocked idea using minerial oil in the end but Leigh is only doing what Dr. R suggested. > Aaron Morris - Thinking a little knowledge is a dangerous thing! And just how does one go about measuring the amount of knowledge someone has? By the fact that they are experimenting with a "new" technique makes them have little knowledge? Don't think so. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 09:31:36 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: Read !! AND UNDERSTAND !! the instructions first!!! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 08:26 AM 6/20/97 -0400, you wrote: >This is cut out of the instructions from Dr. Rodriguez > > At present, oil is applied from a bottle (similar to a honey bear) with a >spout with an opening of 1/16" diameter. Oil is applied steadily, along >the top bars leaving a continuous line of oil measuring approximately the >size of a thin noodle. > >So don/t get in such an uproar.. > >Jim >------------------------------------------------------------------- > Wife and Dog missing > Reward for Dog >------------------------------------------------------------------- > >On Fri, 20 Jun 1997, Aaron Morris wrote: > >> > Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 17:10:20 EDT >> > From: Leigh Wiley >> > Subject: >> > >> > I tried using mineral oil on my bees and was surprised by 1) the >> > uproar it caused ( it appeared to disrupt the hives for the rest of >> > the day), and 2) the several dozen dead bees on the bottom boards 1/2 >> > hour later! I was really concerned that I might have done in the queen >> > but it appears that the ones that died were the ones hit directly by the >> > oil as I applied it. Still I have some concerns about using oil for this >> > reason. I used a honey bear squeeze jar to apply but perhaps the hole >> > was too big? The mineral oil was labled as being for "intestinal use". >> > Any suggestions? >> > >> >> Yes, a suggestion is to read the instructions first! I don't know where >> you got the idea of using a honey bear to squirt the mineral oil onto >> the top bars, but that's not what Dr. Rodriguez recommended and in fact >> if you had bothered to investigate his proposal you would have found >> cautions against using too much FOOD GRADE mineral oil in the hive. Dr. >> R cautioned that too much mineral oil will have the same effect on your >> bees as it will on the target mites, and that effect is DEATH! >> Armed with the idea that mineral oil will cure mites is as we say in >> the systems programming business, "knowing enough to be dangerous!". >> Please folks, if you're going to try Dr. R's treatment, read the >> instructions first. If you haven't read instructions or haven't heard >> Dr. R speak or don't understand fully the mechanisms behind his >> recommended treatments, DON'T USE THEM! If you understand fully his >> proposed treatments you will understand that you too are experimenting >> with an as yet unsanctioned (and to my knowledge unpublished) treatment >> and there is room for your experiments to go awry. >> >> Forgive my tirade, but when I read of some half cocked application >> offing ones' bees as warned, I get upset! >> >> Aaron Morris - Thinking a little knowledge is a dangerous thing! >> >Must be the heat has everyone a little testy. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 14:05:02 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Web Site Promotion Comments: To: barry@birkey.com On Fri, 20 Jun 1997 06:51:15 +0000 Barry Birkey writes: >Albert W Needham wrote: >> >> For those of you on this list that have Web Sites, >> you may be interested in checking out: >> >> http://www.virtualpromotion.com/home.html > >Hi Al - > >Are you sure this is the correct address? I keep getting a "Netscape >unable to locate >server" message. > >-Barry Sorry Barry: It is - http://www.virtualpromote.com/home.html Al ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 15:29:30 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: bartlett Subject: mineral oil. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Did some more hives today with mineral oil and have a couple of tips. Yes you can use a honey bear--- just use a needle to make the whole in the top. If that doesn't make the flow fast enough, use a larger needle. If the whole is a little too big, the flow will be too fast until the vaccuum takes over. Do not invert the bear again or you will get a big squirt at the start again. And for anybody's information---- this place is to learn and to teach and not get your butt chewed out!!! billy bee Valley Lee Maryland U S A ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 19:40:25 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bently Durant Subject: Re: Read !! AND UNDERSTAND !! the instructions first!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hmmmm, thats sorta usless to me because I cannot find mineral oil in stores nearby but since canola oil is in abundance I have used it. I didn't read the instructions I just sorta made up my own. (There were instrustions? like the kind that say insert tab A into slot B) well anyway I got a spray bottle and filles it with the oil. then I sprayed the top bars of the hive and the inner cover really well on each hive. this treatment seems to work well because I have never seen a mite on a bee yet. meby I'm missing something but as my cowboy friend said when he found out who I was dating "Whatever floats your boat" thank you bently durant ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 16:06:43 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: L M SMITH Subject: swarms MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi, My husband and I have had an observation hive for a year now, we keep it for apitherapy purposes. We are learning more and more about beekeeping and have read several books about it. Our hive has swarmed three times in the past three weeks. We caught the first swarm and installed it successfully in an outdoor hive and today we caught another one in a swarm box. We don't have another hive, so we are scrambling like crazy to get one. We weren't prepared for this, obviously. Can anyone tell me why we are getting so many swarms? Does it appear likely we may lose our observation colony? It sounds to me like they don't like it there. I just sent for the ABC book cause I know we need to do more research. I really want to get out there and work with the bees, but I have recently been confined to a wheelchair and because of the illness, we have let a lot of things go. Unfortunately, the bees were one of them. Any advice would be welcomed. I really need to keep at least the observation hive for my apitherapy, but would love to do the other kind too. I know we need to do more work with them if we expect good results. thanks, Lois Smith ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 09:13:51 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Roy Nettlebeck Subject: Re: bee question In-Reply-To: <19970609.200040.3438.0.awneedham@juno.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Mon, 9 Jun 1997, Albert W Needham wrote: > On Sun, 8 Jun 1997 23:11:55 -0400 Box1812@AOL.COM writes: > >How do I get rid of a bumblebee hive in my garage without using > >pesticides? > >Any organic way? > > > > In response to Conrad's comment-they could in my garage > because it's a dirt floor :-). The Bumble Queens scout out my garage > regularly every spring. > > As I have stated once before on the List, why do you want > to kill a Bumble Bee(s)? This business of us humans wanting > to kill everything simply because it is there is certainly not > a positive statement that supports our alleged belief that > we are a 'superior species' as some would have us all > believe. Long after we have done ourselevs in via > pollution, etc., guess who is going to have the last > laugh ? ..... the lowly cockroach ... who was here before us > and undoubtedly will be here long after the human species > is exticnct ! > > Bumbles are harmless! They don't bother anyone and you > have to go aways to get one to sting you! They go about their > business calmly and they will be gone in the Fall ! > Hi Al and All, Very well put. I can't beat what Al has already mentioned.But I have a little to add. The more understanding of nature you have , the more likely you will not kill everything in sight.Nature is a balance and we are the only ones that try very hard to throw it out of balance.Lady bugs eat aphids by the guzillion. We spray to kill the aphids and kill the lady bugs. We kill the natural control. I have lady bugs all over the place and no aphids and no spray. I learn somthing new and wonderful every day.We all need to back down off of our tower and join the whole world.Understanding will bring us much closer to a state of calmness. The heart attack rate will go down without drugs. Plus you smile alot more when you slow down and enjoy what the creator has given all of us to take care of. We shure have blown the take care of part, but we can get better.Beekeepers need to be wired to nature.The enviornment is very important to the bees. We need to know what is going on outside the hive as well as , what is going on inside the hive.It is all ONE. Best Regards Roy ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 22:13:21 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Oswego NY Beekeepers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a customer that has been buying raw honey from me for his allergies. He was told by his Allergist to eat 1 tbs per day do desensitize him from pollen irritations. He is being transferred to Oswego NY and would like to find a local source of honey there. If anyone is interested, please contact me directly and I will give him your name and phone number. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 23:31:21 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: swarms On Fri, 20 Jun 1997 16:06:43 -0500 L M SMITH writes: >Hi, > >My husband and I have had an observation hive for a year now, we keep >it for apitherapy purposes........ Can anyone tell me why we are >getting so many swarms? Sometimes they "just" swarm for reasons not totally known. However, one of the reasons they swarm is because they become overcrowded. Have you noticed that there were a lot more bees in there lately than you usually see? If so, then maybe that is why. Al, awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Honey Bees & Beekeeping - Or - Doktor Finkle http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ Check Out Our Unique T-Shirt/Sweatshirt Stuff! ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 06:31:37 -0700 Reply-To: mister-t@clinic.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Know the bad guys MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Roy Nettlebeck wrote >Nature is a balance and we are the only ones that >try very hard to throw it out of balance. Not quite true. Nature does a good job of going out of balance, otherwise you would not have extinctions of species. The key is knowing who the good guys are and helping them along. Just sitting back and allowing nature to balance won't help your corn fight earworm or your roses fight thirps, unless you have an unlimited budget to accept losses every year as a farmer. And if your kid comes down with a bacterial infection, do you let nature take its course? Of course not. And as far as the question origionally asked, I think it is still unanswered. The question was - is there an organic way to get rid of the bumblebees, so the same intent is there that was voiced in the replys- a desire to do right. But the respose was a lecture - like this one. I would love to know if there is a way to get rid of other bees (or wasps or hornets, all of which ar beneficial) from a dwelling organically. There sure have been plenty of posts on how to get honey bees out of dwellings. Bill Truesdell Bath ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 10:43:45 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Gerry Visel Subject: Re: swarms Comments: To: SVQF34B@prodigy.com Observation hives are an unnaturally small size for a colony, and take more work during the summer, (especially.) Swarming three times says they are trying to tell you something! When they build up and fill the frames with brood, they experience the swarm impulse due to crowding. They need more space. You need to ensure that there are empty frames of cells for the queen to lay in. That means removing one or two frames and giving her empty frames or foundation. Observation hives will produce many excess frames of brood this way, and they must be kept weak and with plenty of open space to not swarm. Don't worry about giving them two frames of foundation. They will draw it out quickly, especially if there is a honey flow on. I just removed two full frames of brood and installed foundation in my three-framer. They had another frame drawn out in three days. The other benefit of an observation hive is that you can see when they are making queen cells. That's another sign that something's wrong and they need more space (or a new queen if the brood pattern is getting spotty.) You can learn a lot by just watching them. (And reading!) Gerry and the other Visels at Visel7@juno.com, GVisel@aol.com, or GCVisel@snds.com Winnebago, Illinois, USA --- The best thing about the internet is that you don't have to be either filthy rich or politically correct to express your opinion. Intelligence (and love) speaks for itself. On Sat, 21 Jun 1997 13:25:38 +1100 "Best of Bee" writes: >From: L M SMITH > >My husband and I have had an observation hive for a year now, we >keep it for apitherapy purposes. We are learning more and more about >beekeeping and have read several books about it. > >Our hive has swarmed three times in the past three weeks. We caught >the first swarm and installed it successfully in an outdoor hive and >today we caught another one in a swarm box. We don't have another >hive, so we are scrambling like crazy to get one. We weren't >prepared for this, obviously. Can anyone tell me why we are getting >so many swarms? Does it appear likely we may lose our observation >colony? It sounds to me like they don't like it there. I just sent >for the ABC book cause I know we need to do more research. > > > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 11:38:12 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Bee removal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am at present removing several colonies from buildings by trapping with screen cone method. Every time I do this, it is always a hassle to get the cone just right and then sealing around it. Today I tried something new. I purchased several sizes of clear plastic tubing. I reduced the opening to one small entrance of about 1 1/2 " X 3/4". I then placed a 3" section of 3/4" tubing and sealed it in place with "Great Stuff" foam sealer. I then sealed up all remaining openings that the bees found. I then put a short section of 5/8" tubing in the 3/4" and 3/8" into the 5/8". The 3/8" tubing is about 8" long and the other end was placed just inside the entrance of a NUC in front of the original entrance. For about 30 minutes the bees were frantic to get back in but couldn't find an entrance to their old nest. Finally a few found the NUC and started scenting. After 45 minutes, most bees were entering the new hive with returning field bees searching for a short time and then they too entered. It took about 30 minutes for the bees to start exiting via the tubing. However once started they came out in a steady stream. If this continues to work as well as it started, I will never again use screening. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 14:04:51 -0700 Reply-To: tljohn@eagleweb.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Johnson, Terry" Subject: Re: Read !! AND UNDERSTAND !! the instructions first!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit "Yes, a suggestion is to read the instructions first! I don't know where you got the idea of using a honey bear to squirt the mineral oil onto the top bars, but that's not what Dr. Rodriguez recommended and in fact if you had bothered to investigate his proposal you would have found cautions against using too much FOOD GRADE mineral oil in the hive." arron... I think that maybe you should review Dr. R's instructions again. He specifically mentioned that he put the oil on the top bars using a squirt bottle. I would have done the same. But you are right about putting too much oil on the hive. That will do the same to the bee's as to the mites. Be gentle to us newbee's!! see you later. TJ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 17:02:29 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dusty Rhodes Subject: Re: varroa mites.... In-Reply-To: <199706180225.WAA27785@mail.peterboro.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have this idea about putting one frame of drone >foundation in each hive, then, before the drones are just about to hatch, I >would take the frame from the hive and distroy the drones and then return >the frame back to the hive to start all over again. I was reading that >about 75 % to 80 % of the mites reproduce in drone brood cells, therefore >if I do this I could possibly control or eliminate 75 % to 80 % of the >varroa in the hives. IMHO, I believe you would eliminate the mites which preffered drone cells which means you would breed mites which preffer workers. Dusty Angel's Old Town HomeBrew http://www.netropolis.net/dusty/homebrew.htm Beauty is in the hands of the beerholder! ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 18:16:20 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Verville Subject: Re: Bee removal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Frank & Phronsie Humphrey wrote: > > I am at present removing several colonies from buildings by trapping with > screen cone method. Every time I do this, it is always a hassle to get the > cone just right and then sealing around it. Today I tried something new. > I purchased several sizes of clear plastic tubing. I reduced the opening > to one small entrance of about 1 1/2 " X 3/4". I then placed a 3" section > of 3/4" tubing and sealed it in place with "Great Stuff" foam sealer. I > then sealed up all remaining openings that the bees found. I then put a > short section of 5/8" tubing in the 3/4" and 3/8" into the 5/8". The 3/8" > tubing is about 8" long and the other end was placed just inside the > entrance of a NUC in front of the original entrance. For about 30 minutes > the bees were frantic to get back in but couldn't find an entrance to their > old nest. Finally a few found the NUC and started scenting. After 45 > minutes, most bees were entering the new hive with returning field bees > searching for a short time and then they too entered. > > It took about 30 minutes for the bees to start exiting via the tubing. > However once started they came out in a steady stream. If this continues > to work as well as it started, I will never again use screening. > > Frank Humphrey > beekeepr@cdc.net This sounds promising but what about those good time summer party boys - drones plugging up the tubing? plugging up the tubing. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 22:05:14 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Re: Bee removal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: David Verville > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Bee removal > Date: Saturday, June 21, 1997 6:16 PM > > Frank & Phronsie Humphrey wrote: > > > > I am at present removing several colonies from buildings by trapping with > > screen cone method. Every time I do this, it is always a hassle to get the > > cone just right and then sealing around it. Today I tried something new. > > I purchased several sizes of clear plastic tubing. I reduced the opening > > to one small entrance of about 1 1/2 " X 3/4". I then placed a 3" section > > of 3/4" tubing and sealed it in place with "Great Stuff" foam sealer. I > > then sealed up all remaining openings that the bees found. I then put a > > short section of 5/8" tubing in the 3/4" and 3/8" into the 5/8". The 3/8" > > tubing is about 8" long and the other end was placed just inside the > > entrance of a NUC in front of the original entrance. > > > > Frank Humphrey > > beekeepr@cdc.net > > This sounds promising but what about those good time summer party boys - > drones plugging up the tubing? > plugging up the tubing. I had a few that chickened out half way through the tube and were trampled or otherwise died in the small tube. I removed it and used 5/8" all the way to the new hive. With this size, three or four can pass at the same time. With the exit end slightly inside of the new hive, the bees baven't been able to find it even with the increased size. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net