========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 23:18:49 -0500 Reply-To: lawrence@the-link.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Lawrence W. Thompson" Subject: Honeybees used to track radioactivity MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following article appeared in the "Albuquerque Journal", July 13, 1997, page B2. I thought it would be of interest to the list. Please excuse any typos. QUOTE HONEYBEES TRACK LAB ACTIVITY Researchers Want to Know Why Levels Appear Low by Ian Hoffman, Journal Northern Bureau "Tim Haarmann's honeybees are full of the stuff of thermonuclear weapons. No surprise - the bees drink and cool their hives from a waste lagoon at one of Los Alamos National Laboratory's "hottest" facilities. Plus they feed on pollen and nectar from nearby wildflowers. Haarmann's bees at LANL are just like any other honeybees: they flit about, they make wax and honey, they feed the queen. His hives at the lab appear as healthy as "normal" hives he keeps at home near Jemez Springs. They're just radioactive. And while the lab bees don't glow, they could shed light [was this an intentional pun?] on ways byproducts of nuclear of nuclear research travel through the environment. That makes the bees watchdogs for a larger family of plants and animals. Haarmann has posted his environmental sentinels near wastewater lagoons for the Los Alamos Neutron Science Center partly because its linear accelerator has some of the lab's highest radioactive emissions. The water - and the bees - contain traces of various radioactive elements and tritium, a radioactive form of hydrogen that is a key ingredient in thermonuclear weapons, as well as a signature pollutant from nuclear work. "Its an ecotoxicologist's dream to have this experimental ground to work on" said Haarmann, a lab ecologist. He just set up new hives at area G, the lab's storage area for radioactive waste. Other lab ecologists grow fruits and vegetables. They trap small animals. They test milk from a nearby dairy and from goats. If a car hits an elk or deer on lab land, a team is called out to cut shoulder muscle and bone from the road kill - all trying to figure out [continued on page B7] whether and how radioactive particles are getting into plants and animals. Haarmann's bees are modern-day canaries in a gold mine, keeping watch on radioactive pollution from way down the food chain. Haarmann vacuums honeybees from the hive, euthanizes them with ether, freezes them and hands them to lab technicians. They grind the bees into a soup and run it through a spectrometer to "see" the amounts of radioactive particles or radionuclides. "We have levels (of radioactivity), but what the heck does that mean to the bees or to the birds that feed on them?", Haarmann said. So far, the levels of radionuclides in the honeybees are low, he said. Much of Haarmann's detective work is aimed at figuring out why. He's found, for example, that bees get rid of some tritium in their bodies through respiration; it scatters in the air as they fly. [Are their bee wind tunnels?] "We're stuck with these low enough levels where I don't think there's any health effect for the bees", he said. "What I'm worried about is the entire movement of contaminants throughout the ecosystem so we can ensure the protection of those animals/" ENVIRONMENTAL SENTINELS Haarmann wants to know how the various flowers the bees rely upon for food take up radio active particles from the environment, whether some tend to concentrate those particles and others filter them. He also is trying to understand what may happen to birds or worms that eat the bees, whether eating them could magnify those contaminants. As sentinels against pollution, "insects are where it's at," Haarmann said. After all, he noted, most of the world's animals are insects. Humans have looked to honeybees as barometers of change for centuries. Calendars from the Middle Ages foretold war, pestilence and famine based on bee behaviour. Honeybees began signalling problems in the environment in the late 1800s, when farmers began spraying insecticides that contained trace metals, said biology professor Jerry Bromenshenk of the University of Montana. A German beekeeper made the first connection between bee health and polluting metals in 1914; he sued a silverworks on the Rhine River for killing his bees. Researchers began using honeybees as biological sentinels in 1930s, to study the impacts of ore smelters in Utah, Texas, Czechoslovakia and elsewhere in Europe. Entomologists think honeybees originated in Afghanistan. Human love of honey has carried them across most of the world. For Bromenshenk, those millions of bee colonies are a global monitoring network for the health of ecosystems. The reason: Bees pick up lots of stuff on their daily dorties, then haul it back to the hive. Honeybees are uniquely equipped for this: They are covered in tiny, branched hairs, making them like airborne balls of Velcro. Plus, scientists believe bees' bodies carry electrostatic charges, putting static cling to work carrying food, water and whatnot. Bromenshenk call them "nature's dust mop". YEARS OF STUDY For more than 20 years, Bromenshenk and colleagues have studied how bees harvest hundreds of contaminants and how those contaminants affect the various castes of bees back at the hive - foragers, nurse bees, drones and the queen. They've used sophisticated sensors to guage the health of the colonies and count every coming and going of the foragers - the females who hunt food and water up to three miles from the hive. Tiny screens at the hive entrance scrape pollen and other things from the foragers for chemical analysis. They drill holes into the hives, insert a pipe and run spectroscopic tests on the air inside. They've found that bees tend to concentrate pollutants in the hives, where they can be measured even when manmade instruments on the outside detect nothing. What they've found is intriguing for the US Army. Bromenshenk's bees are monitoring heavy metals pollution at the Aberdeen Proving Ground in Maryland, where the Army used to make chemical weapons and still stores mustard gas. "It's this broad screening we're excited about," said biologist and contract officer Tom Shedd of the US Army's Center for Environmental Health Research at Fort Detrick, Mc. As fast as the science of bee biomonitoring is expanding, there's still plenty of research to be done. And much of it concerns radionuclides. "There certainly are lots and lots of questions about how bees take them up and what happens to them in the hive," Bromenshenk said. That's where Haarmann's research comes in. He's not interested in whether pollutants could reach humans but how the ecosystem is affected by them. "The truth is we don't have a complete understanding of the movement of all these different radionuclides through different plants and animals," Haarmann said. "We measure these bees or a mouse to see what the levels of contaminants are. But what does that mean? Does it come from the soils, or from the water or the plants they're eating? There are a few things we need to understand before we can use these numbers. I think we will get to that point some day." end Quote The writer must get paid by the word. For those interested in responding to the newspaper and/or the writer, the address is: http://www.abqjournal.com or PO Drawer J, Albuquerque, NM 87103 or 7777 Jefferson NE, 87109 Lawrence W. Thompson Montgomery, Al. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 22:41:57 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jeff Burton Subject: feeding water? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" We live out in the nevada desert here with 5 hives which all except one are doing great. we have been putting supers on and I convinced my dad not to use sugar water anymore. But we are still worried that they won't get enought water so we filled the feeded jars up with pure water. can anyone think of a side-effect of this? I figured if nothing else the bees just would ignore the feeder but I promised my dad I would ask the list ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 23:27:08 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: Swarm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC90AD.98C01B80" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC90AD.98C01B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable 42 is a pretty big number isn't it! Yes it's all from this year. Last = year I only got 12. I live in Gilroy CA. I'm on the Santa Clara Valley Beekeeper's = Association swarm list and the Carrier Bee Supply swarm list. They are = both in San Jose, and I'm the only representative of both lists in my = area, which is 20 miles south of San Jose. Also, my partner and I get = all the local 911 referals, and all the referals from the public works = department in Gilroy. It's practically a monopoly I guess, but they = can't find anyone else who is interested. Our swarm season runs from = late January to July. The 911 and city contacts are new this year = accounting for much of the increase from last year. Last year we = traveled further for fewer swarms. Also, there seem to be more swarms = this year. This area was hit hard by varroa for about the first 3 years = it was here, but seems to be rebounding. I'm a hobbyist running a 4-H project with 9 kids and half a dozen = parents who are new beekeepers. We share the 4-H yard with a commercial = guy who uses the location for mating nucs and as a holding yard. He had = a lot of trouble with swarming in his yard this year and over a third of = the swarms were from there. There were several times when I would go to = the bee yard and find as many as 3 or 4 clusters of Kevin's bees in the = bushes. We usually combine swarms caught within a 24 hour period to = make a stronger colony and let the queens duke it out. We have combined = swarms to make up about 17 colonies. =20 If you want a blow by blow account, check out a feature on my web site = called "The swarm watch". The last few swarms haven't made it onto the = web page yet and may not. I'm too busy scrounging up swarm boxes and = keeping up with the bee list. My URL is http://www.hotcity.com/~mwr Michael ---------- From: bartlett[SMTP:bartlett@eagle1.eaglenet.com] Sent: Saturday, July 12, 1997 12:05 PM To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: Re: Swarm Mr. Reddell, Where are you located that you can catch 42 swarms? Are these from your apiary or are they calls that you get? Do you get this many swarms every year or is this exceptional? How many hives do you have total if you caught 42 this year? Just wondering-----------billy bee ---------- From: Michael Reddell To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: Re: Swarm Date: 12 juil. 1997 13:26 Betty's statement is generally true, but there are rare exceptions. This year I've hived 42 swarms and 2 of them settled into the box nicely the first day, only to abscond hours later the same day, or the next day. In one case I put them back in the same box and then they stayed. The other one took off across the countryside and I lost track of it when it crossed a creek. In both cases, the queen was in the box. A frame of brood in all stages of development will generally keep a swarm in a box even if they don't particularly like it. Problem is, I don't always have a spare frame of brood handy when hiving a swarm. If a swarm does not immediately leave the hive box, it has adopted it as a new home. 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charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I really do want to know if mineral oil is present in noticeable amounts = in honey from hives treated with it. Would someone who has tried it = PLEASE answer the question? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 07:36:15 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: Re: Moving beehives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:11 PM 13/07/97 -0700, you wrote: >I have two beehives that I would like to move to another location which >is about 200 feet away. I would like to have all hives in one location. >How would I go about moving these two hives? Or wait til colder weather? > >Mark F. Almond >Concord, NC > If there are no landmarks. That is - if they are along the edge of a bush. You can get by with just moving them. There will be some confusion but in an hour they will all find their way home. Safer - move them 20 feet a day. Still confusion but likely no bees lost. To be real safe - move them 10 miles away. Wait 2 weeks. Move them to their final location. Good luck. Eric Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 14:30:00 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Pheysey Subject: Re: Swarm I agree with Betty McAdam on the use of old brood combs to attract swarms. I placed five such frames into a bait hive on the roof of my garage one evening. My wife phoned me at work the next day around 1pm to say that there were "an awful lot of bees flying around the front garden"! I peered in that evening and all five frames were covered. I quickly made up some new frames with foundation and put them in to fill the remaining space. Less than 12 hours to find and move into a new home, some kind of record? I reckon it was a cast as I've only now found eggs, 18 days later. The first two weeks were pretty grim weather wise and they hogged down 6kgs of 1:1 sugar syrup. Cheers, Mike. Bristol UK, 100 miles west of London. mikeph@bri.hp.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 14:32:33 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Pheysey Subject: Extracting oil seed rape Hi, I've ended up with some crystalised oil seed rape honey in some of my frames and was wondering about how to extract it. How about the following idea?... Put all the offending frames in a warming cabinet (insulated box with 2 x 40W light bulbs) for a few days until the temperature reaches wax melting point minus a safety margin (any ideas for a value here?). Hopefully all the honey would dissolve back into liquid form (reasonable assumption???) at this point. Now remove the frames from the box and let cool for long enough for the wax harden up so as to withstand normal extraction forces but before the rape re-crystalises. Is this realistic?, or if not, why? I'd appreciate any views on this idea. Thanks in advance, Mike Pheysey Bristol UK, 100 miles west of London. mikeph@bri.hp.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 12:06:57 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mark Franklin Almond Subject: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I seen these advertised in the bee catalogs. I am thinking of building one of the baggie feeders. My question is "How long are the slits that you cut in the top of the baggie after it is placed into fedder box. I have measured the baggie and it is about 10 inches square. Too if you cut the slits too long, wouldn't about the sugar syrup run out of the baggie. Would not the heat cause the syrup to expand and run out too. Maybe thats what is suppose to do? I would like to try one. Anyone with answers to these questions? Mark F. Almond Concord, NC ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 08:28:09 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders On Tue, 15 Jul 1997 12:06:57 -0700 Mark Franklin Almond writes: >My question is "How long are the slits that >you cut in the top of the baggie after it is placed into fedder box. You can cut two to four about an inch or so long-I use a razor blade. >Too if you cut the slits too long, wouldn't about the sugar syrup >run out of the baggie. Yes and too much of it would just run down over the bees. The above is based upon my experience. I feel that they are a great way to feed them and it is easy to do a quick check to see if they need more & they are quite easy to replace quickly. I am sure that you will probably get some more responses on baggies. Keeps the syrup nice and warm inside the hive and you don't need a full super such as you would if you were using some sort of inverted jar setup. Al, ____ awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Honey Bees & Beekeeping - / - Doktor Finkle Play " Interlotto " and win at: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 10:49:25 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Deer Subject: Width of opening in super MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Greetings: Would an experienced keeper answer one question... Does the opening of the beehive affect it's production? Reason for asking, new at this. I received the 5 frames of bees, queen less 2 months ago. They are increasing in volume. a second super was installed 3 weeks ago. They have drawn 2 frames in the 2nd but not filled 2 frames in the lower super. The person I got the bees from placed wood on both sides of the base to reduce the opening. Are they necessary, or limiting anything.... Thank you in advance, Bill Deer Clarence, NY _____________________________________________________________________ Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 13:40:07 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Moore Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders From my experience 2 or 3 short parallel cuts about 2 inches in length is sufficient. --------- -------------- --------- If you make the feeding area too big the weight of the feeding bees tends to cause the baggie to leak. Also slits that are too long tend to compromise the bags abiltiy to hold the syrup. I think some of the early reports of the bees taking the syrup really fast were due to lots of bees on top of the baggie causing the syrup to leak and then just run out the entrance. This can be avoid by keeping the slits shorter. I really like the baggie feeders as they don't suffer from leaking that inverted pails suffer from when the air inside warms and expands. The only down side is that for feeding with cool temperatures the bees have to leave the warmth of the hive to get to the top of the baggie. This is not the case for pails inverted over the hole of the inner cover. Regards, Jim Moore ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 15:08:21 -0500 Reply-To: beeman52@worldnet.att.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ken Lawrence Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jim Moore wrote: > > From my experience 2 or 3 short parallel cuts about 2 inches in length > is sufficient. > > --------- > > -------------- > > --------- > > If you make the feeding area too big the weight of the feeding bees > tends to cause the baggie to leak. Also slits that are too long tend to > compromise the bags abiltiy to hold the syrup. > > I think some of the early reports of the bees taking the syrup really > fast were due to lots of bees on top of the baggie causing the syrup to leak > and then just run out the entrance. This can be avoid by keeping the slits > shorter. > > I really like the baggie feeders as they don't suffer from leaking that > inverted pails suffer from when the air inside warms and expands. The only down > side is that for feeding with cool temperatures the bees have to leave the > warmth of the hive to get to the top of the baggie. This is not the case for > pails inverted over the hole of the inner cover. > > Regards, > > Jim Moore Hello I also us the baggies but with only one slit about 2 inches long. But I can reuse the baggie by just refilling it without any trouble. Ken Lawrence ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 18:46:05 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MR MARK G SPAGNOLO Subject: Pollen cleaning? Aloha: Greeting from Hawaii! The queen season has finally slowed. The Hawaiian weather cooperated this year tomake this our best queen season ever. Sufficient rainfall at the right time kept the feed bill low and the drone populations high. We are still catching and selling queens and will continue through November. Now that I have some time to work on my own personal hives, I am hoping someone can help me gain some knowledge concerning pollen collection. Currently I have a small pollen buisiness (75-100 lbs per week from 40 hives). I sell most of it to local beekeepers to feed back to their bees. We also sell to local health food stores for human consumption. The health food store will pay four times as much as the beekeepers. Of course the pollen has to be very, very clean and this is where my questions comes. I am currently using a seed cleaner to clean the pollen. This does a good job removing anything bigger or smaller than the pollen grains. Anything the same size and relative weight isn't removed. I am wondering what the large commercial pollen producers use to clean pollen. I have heard the words gravity table used. Does anyone out there know what this might be? Are they expensive? Any help would be appreciated. Fresh-frozen pollen is selling for $12.75 per pound here, and I am only limited by the speed at which I can clean it. The math ($12.75 X 100 lbs per week) is pretty impressive and would make a great second income! Thanks for any help! Aloha, Mark document1 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 17:40:14 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark Franklin Almond wrote: > > I seen these advertised in the bee catalogs. I am thinking of building > one of the baggie feeders. My question is "How long are the slits that > you cut in the top of the baggie after it is placed into fedder box. I > have measured the baggie and it is about 10 inches square. Too if you cut > the slits too long, wouldn't about the sugar syrup run out of the baggie. > Would not the heat cause the syrup to expand and run out too. Maybe thats > what is suppose to do? I would like to try one. > Anyone with answers to these questions? > > Mark F. Almond > Concord, NC My experience with baggie feeders are at: http://www.birkey.com/BLB/Beekeeping/baggie.html -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 20:48:51 -0400 Reply-To: anscsche@entelchile.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: ANDREAS SCHCK Organization: ENTEL S.A. Subject: HIGH TENSION LINE AND BEES MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit HIGH FOLK, SINCE YESTERDAY I'M SUBSCRIBED IN THIS FINE MAIL GROUP.FOR ME IT'S A BIG PLESURE TO STAY HERE NOW ! I'M A COMMERCIAL QUEEN REARER FROM CHILE, ALTHOUGH I'M SWISS. I REAR QUEENS SOUTH FROM SANTIAGO BESIDE THE CORDILLERA. NOW AN ELECTRICITY COMPANY BUILTS AN HIGH TENSION LINE (500 MV) NEAR MY FECUNDATION NUCS AND HIVES. MY QUESTION IS IF THE BEES WILL BE HARMED OR AT LEAST DISTURBED WITH THE ELECTROMAGNETICAL FIELD THAT WILL SURROUND THE LINE. ARE THERE ANY STUDIES OR ANTECEDENT ABOUT THIS MATTER ? (THE NEAREST APIARY IS ABOUT 100 METERS FROM THE LINE). FINAL, I HOPE MY QUEENS ARE BETTER THEN MY ENGLISH !! ANDREAS SCH\CK COLMENARES SUIZOS FUNDO EL LITRAL PAINE-CHILE E MAIL: anscsche@entelchile.net ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:19:48 -0700 Reply-To: vcoppla@epix.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Width of opening in super MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill Deer wrote: > Does the opening of the beehive affect it's production? > > Reason for asking, new at this. I received the 5 frames of bees, > queen less 2 months ago. They are increasing in volume. a second > super was installed 3 weeks ago. They have drawn 2 frames in the 2nd > but not filled 2 frames in the lower super. The person I got the bees > from placed wood on both sides of the base to reduce the opening. > Are they necessary, or limiting anything.... For many years I belived that I had to remove the entrance reducer each spring and put it back in each fall. I finally took the advice of a local expert and tried leaving them in. I could see no advantage to taking them in and out so now they just stay in. Colonies can make huge crops with just a 3/8" X 2 1/2" entrance. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 20:51:03 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: HIGH TENSION LINE AND BEES In-Reply-To: <33CC1A73.5347@entelchile.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 08:48 PM 7/15/97 -0400, you wrote: >I'M A COMMERCIAL QUEEN REARER FROM CHILE, ALTHOUGH I'M SWISS. I REAR >QUEENS SOUTH FROM SANTIAGO BESIDE THE CORDILLERA. >NOW AN ELECTRICITY COMPANY BUILTS AN HIGH TENSION LINE (500 MV) NEAR >MY FECUNDATION NUCS AND HIVES. MY QUESTION IS IF THE BEES WILL BE >HARMED OR AT LEAST DISTURBED WITH THE ELECTROMAGNETICAL FIELD THAT WILL >SURROUND THE LINE. Don't know about the bees but a study of people living under or in the area of some High Tension lines in Fresno California discovered a high rate of cancer in the neighborhood, mostly in their children. Scientific study by the government regulatory body that gave the permit has proven it is not the power lines but did not not explain the high rate of deadly brain disease in the children or satisfy the people who live there. I believe that at least one school was closed and the children moved to other schools just to protect them from the harmless power lines. >ARE THERE ANY STUDIES OR ANTECEDENT ABOUT THIS MATTER ? (THE NEAREST >APIARY IS ABOUT 100 METERS FROM THE LINE). >FINAL, I HOPE MY QUEENS ARE BETTER THEN MY ENGLISH !! All I know for sure is that when they put these harmless high voltage lines across one of the ranches I keep bees in they also went around and grounded every gate to protect people and farm animinals from the harmless electricity and within two years problems developed with leak after leak in the under ground oil transmission lines that the power lines cross over in several places. All, I am sure can be proven not to be the fault of the new power lines if they pay enough for the study. The only thing I have seen myself out of the normal is when these lines pop and ark in the dampness of a foggy morning, all harmless I am told, the bees will ball the lower insulators sometimes in groups as large as a shocker football. I suspect this has something to do with the harmless ozone being produced by the arcking electric ropes. Never stayed around long enough to see if the bees come home, or glow in the dark, but as long as you don't have to live under those harmless HT lines I would not worry about it. ttul Andy- Los Banos, California ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 00:12:08 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steven Albritton Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I guess I cut two 3 inch slits. Feeder works great for me. However my advice is use good bags. the cheapm ones will pop open at the wrong time. Not a single bee will drown. At 12:06 PM 7/15/97 -0700, you wrote: >I seen these advertised in the bee catalogs. I am thinking of building >one of the baggie feeders. My question is "How long are the slits that >you cut in the top of the baggie after it is placed into fedder box. I >have measured the baggie and it is about 10 inches square. Too if you cut >the slits too long, wouldn't about the sugar syrup run out of the baggie. >Would not the heat cause the syrup to expand and run out too. Maybe thats >what is suppose to do? I would like to try one. >Anyone with answers to these questions? > >Mark F. Almond >Concord, NC > > Steven Albritton LDS Communications, Chauvin Honey Farms, Sports America Monroe, La http://sports.iamerica.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 08:10:53 GMT+2 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MIKE ALLSOPP Organization: N.I.P.B VREDENBURG Subject: Re: HIGH TENSION LINE AND BEES In-Reply-To: <33CC1A73.5347@entelchile.net> Andreas > I'M A COMMERCIAL QUEEN REARER FROM CHILE, ALTHOUGH I'M SWISS. I REAR > QUEENS SOUTH FROM SANTIAGO BESIDE THE CORDILLERA. > NOW AN ELECTRICITY COMPANY BUILTS AN HIGH TENSION LINE (500 MV) NEAR > MY FECUNDATION NUCS AND HIVES. MY QUESTION IS IF THE BEES WILL BE > HARMED OR AT LEAST DISTURBED WITH THE ELECTROMAGNETICAL FIELD THAT WILL > SURROUND THE LINE. > ARE THERE ANY STUDIES OR ANTECEDENT ABOUT THIS MATTER ? (THE NEAREST > APIARY IS ABOUT 100 METERS FROM THE LINE). > FINAL, I HOPE MY QUEENS ARE BETTER THEN MY ENGLISH !! > I know of about 8 or 10 studies that have looked at the effect of the electromagnetism from power lines on honeybee colonies. Most of these studies were Russian or German, although I think there have been two in the USA. The general conclusions were as follows - bees near powerlines had: - large increase in adult mortality - less honey produced - more diseases - disrupted foraging - more swarming - and sometimes less brood production All these stem from the magnetic field interfering with the honeybee navigation and perhaps communication - and there is one paper that suggest that the magnetic field results in actual protein changes in the bees. Seems that powerlines are not good for bees, and a Russian paper recommends 35m as a minimum distance between bees and powerlines. regards Mike Allsopp Stellenbosch, South Africa Mike Allsopp tel (27)(21) 887-4690 Honeybee Research Section fax (27)(21) 883-3285 Plant Protection Research Institute pmail plant3/vredma Agricultural Research Council email vredma@plant3.agric.za P/Bag X5017 Stellenbosch 7599 South Africa ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 00:24:14 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Peter Wilson Subject: Re: noxious substances in honey In-Reply-To: <199707141233.HAA24818@osage.csc.ti.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Mon, 14 Jul 1997, Laura Key wrote: > > > > It is advised to test the honey by first feeding it to a dog and observing > > its behaviour. > > > > Peter Wilson > > Edmonton, Alberta > > Canada > > > NOW HOLD IT RIGHT THERE! I, PETER WILSON, WAS QUOTING FROM MY 1973 EDITION OF " THE ABC & XYZ OF BEEKEEPING " BY THE A I ROOT COMPANY. THE EXACT QUOTE WAS ATTRIBUTED TO C.L. SAMS, THEN EXTENSION APIARIST FOR THE STATE OF NORTH CAROLINA (about the year 1921) > This is terrible advice! Whatever would possess someone > to be so cruel to a helpless lifeform -that has no voice > what what is done to it?? There are other ways to test > your substance. Ex-husbands are perfect for testing of > toxic substances...as are IRS agents, bad attorneys, > corrupt polititians, and child molesters. > > Everyone knows that a dog is to be loved and worshiped. > After all...spell "dog" backwards! :)))))) > > --Anima > -- > IT WAS NOT MY INTENTION TO REV UP A VIRAGO - APOLOGIES TO THE JAPANESE MOTOR CYCLE INDUSTRY AND THE LIST 8) PETER WILSON EDMONTON , ALBERTA. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 06:06:51 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert E Neely Subject: Re: Handling a twoweek old swarm This works when housing a swarm from a tree or building. Cut the brood and comb honey to fit the frame and hold in with rubber bands. The bees will fill in and tie it all together. Be sure to include big rubber bands to go all the way around from end to end. The bands may be removed later. (If the bees don't remove them first.) Bob Neely Goose Creek, SC neely-bee@juno.com On Wed, 9 Jul 1997 19:24:52 -0400 James Meehan writes: >I heard of someone actually attaching the comb to the frames with >rubberbands >and letting the bees figure out what to do. > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 12:09:00 +0002 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: RFC822 error: TO field duplicated. Last occurrence was retained. Comments: RFC822 error: TO field duplicated. Last occurrence was retained. Comments: RFC822 error: TO field duplicated. Last occurrence was retained. From: "Krell, Rainer (REUS)" Subject: Transgenic pollen Comments: To: "Sanford, Tom U. Fl." , infoterra messages , "Kevan, Peter" , "Roubik, Dave, STRI, Panama" , "Sheppard, Steve; WSU" , "Spivak, Marla; UoMinnesota" MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT A thought in reference to the news below on transgenic pollen: Labeling of genetically manipulated crops will become more and more difficult and controlled distribution of the genetic material quite difficult, independent of whether it is a health hazard or not. Considering that bees will be able to pick up this pollen, even honey from areas in which these plants are grown would have to be labeled as containing genetically manipulated material! Since pollen can be carried for not just a few miles but hundreds of miles with the right air currents, and is found in lakes and rivers, is there a limit? What a great idea! Apart from producing a sellable technique, did anybody think about the possible consequences? With labeling control and controlled distribution just about becoming impossible where will be our rights of free choice (between transgenic food, organic food, pesticide or hormone etc. treated food, additives etc.) and for reduced rather than increased pollution. Will nobody put a barrier or limits to the new green revolution - so it does not become a repetition of the last one, only with new toys? The continuing acceptance of transgenic plants for food cited by the Senior Vice President of BTG has still to be shown on a significant scale unless he is referring to only a small group of vested interest. Has there been an acceptance that could be continued other than the one by those who are to gain from transgenic sales or who have to recuperate their multi-billion dollar investments? The international BST "conflicts" as example only show that the patent or license owner (Monsanto) and major political powers (the US, also UK) are the ones who decide or at least try to decide what is and what is not acceptable or more precisely, whether consumers have to be informed so they can make their own choices. Considering however the multi-billion dollar investments in this field and who made the investments it is likely to be just a question of marketing and politics on how widely "acceptance will continue". This is just some food for thought; but let's keep the food for our minds at least cleaner than the one we use for our bodies. Greetings Rainer Krell --------------------- Forwarded message: Subj: US Patent Granted for Novel Method to Produce Transgenic Plants Date: 97-07-11 07:50:14 EDT From: AOL News GULPH MILLS, Pa., July 11 /PRNewswire/ -- BTG, an international technology licensing company, announced today that the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has received a US Patent (No. 5,629,183) entitled Plant Transformation by Gene Transfer into Pollen. Commercialization rights to this technology were acquired by BTG USA Inc. from the USDA in 1993, along with two additional agribusiness technologies. The patent relates to a method for producing transgenic plants which uses electroporation to introduce foreign genes into pollen. Transgenic plants are then produced from seeds formed after fertilization with electroporated pollen. As a result of working together with the USDA, BTG was able to provide funding to further develop the technology, which in turn resulted in this broad patent covering a full range of plant species including both monocotyledonous and dicotyledonous plants. The technology, developed by Dr. James A. Saunders and Dr. Benjamin Matthews, Agriculture Research Service (ARS), USDA, Beltsville, MD, has been demonstrated in several crops including tobacco, alfalfa and corn. Pollen electrotransformation offers the promise of a convenient, economical and, thus, commercially valuable procedure for rapidly producing genetically engineered plants. There are numerous potential advantages in using pollen. Because transformed seeds are obtained directly from the plant, no protoplast or tissue culture is involved. Since plants are directly obtained from seed, it is less likely that vigor and fertility will be compromised as compared with transformed plants obtained through regeneration from protoplasts. The risk of tissue culture induced variation is also minimized. The technology has already been licensed by BTG USA Inc. to Sanford Scientific, Inc. for exclusive use in the field of ornamental plants, and several commercial evaluations of the technology are underway in a variety of plant species with potential licensees. BTG will license the patent rights to the invention to additional companies in the agribusiness industry. Dr. Richard D. Gill, Senior Vice President and General Manager, BTG USA Inc. said, "We are delighted that the USDA has received such a broad patent covering the use of pollen electrotransformation to produce transgenic plants. With the continuing acceptance and demonstration of increased benefits in transgenic plants, we feel that the development of this technology could have a tremendous impact on the ongoing improvement of economically important crops and plants." SOURCE BTG USA Inc. CO: BTG plc; BTG USA Inc.; United States Department of Agriculture ST: Pennsylvania IN: AGR MTC SU: To edit your profile, go to keyword NewsProfiles. For all of today's news, go to keyword News. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 06:38:17 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Trevor Weatherhead Subject: Re: Bees under power lines Here in Australia I have heard anecdotal stories of bees becoming confused when placed under high voltage power lines. There are stories of a drop off in numbers in the hives. The theory is that as bees often use the earth's magnetic field to navigate, then the magnetic fields produced by the power lines causes the confusion. FWIW Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 07:24:26 -0600 Reply-To: ribac@wi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Randy, Isa & Alina Chase" Subject: Environmental Sentinals MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is an article in the May 24, 1997 issue of Science News (Vol. 151) entitled "Chemical Buzz: Honeybees and their hives act as sensors for pollution". It discusses various projects which employ honeybees as environmental pollution sensors using gas chromatograms from samples of hive materials. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 21:53:16 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: feeding water? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Supplying bees with pure water through use of feeder jars seems an excellent idea - no contaminants and no wasted time for foraging bees. Betty McAdam > HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: feeding water? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit j h & e mcadam wrote: > > Supplying bees with pure water through use of feeder jars seems an excellent > idea - no contaminants and no wasted time for foraging bees. > > Betty McAdam > > > HOG BAY APIARY > Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island > j.h. & e. mcadam http://kigateway.eastend.com.au/hogbay/hogbay1.htm I know this subject was talked about in length last year and for those interested, would be worth looking at the archives at: http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/home.html. My experience of suppling clean, fresh water to the bees via jars directly at the hive, has not been favorable. One would think the bees couldn't refuse to have water on tap but my bees would just as well forget the clean, good stuff, and head to the drainage ditch, stale pools of rain water or wet areas over the septic field. It seems that bees don't think logically like us and I'm forever trying to learn to think like them. Certainly give the water a try though. It can't hurt. Regards -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:25:24 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: wastewater and apiculture: historic problems? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Eric Ellman wrote: Dear Eric: I apologize if I am late answering your request. I am involved with a research project for treatment of honey bee mites that keeps me occupied 24 hours a day. Nevertheless I am always available to assist with bee questions. Regarding your question: 1. I have no knowledge regarding contaminated honey from Mexico. Honey can be easily contaminated at any geographical location if not handled properly! 2. I am concerned about botulism (fr. Clostridium botulinum) that sometimes may show up in honey. The source of Clostridium germs is of course soil or soil water that contains the germs. Will your water be available to honey bees at any time? I am wondering about this precisely because in you area of work, bees might be starved for water and will seek water from just about any source that they can find, and believe me they are good at it. 3. I am wondering if mesquite flowers might yield toxic honey. I am only wondering, not knowing about this possibility. Just a question mark for you to look into. Good luck. Please let me know if I may be of further assistance to you. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 12:50:55 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Twine (smoker fuel) - is it coated with preservative ?? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel Govostes wrote: Dear Joel: Sorry if I am late replying to your post on "smoker fuel" but as you might guess I am busy 24 four hours (literally speaking) with my mite work. I have tried many sorts of fuel and finally have settled on wood chips. I keep the chips in a waste can container and dip into them continuously as needed. I start the fire in the smoker using a bit of barbecue charcoal lighter fluid (enough to get the fire started). It is fast starting and quite productive of smoke. I would think that the "colored" stuff that you see in the twine is a preservative of some kind and that it might release "harmful" or contaminating residues that might do harm to the bees or contaminate the honey. Just a guess. Good luck. Best regards. Dr Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 13:14:07 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Another swarm story MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Digest Cesar Flores wrote: Dear Cesar: Sorry about a delayed reply. I am busy as "bee" with my work but I thought that it would be nice to contribute to this bee question. Most of the time bees will engorge themselves with honey (sort of a meal for the road). As you know, bees will accept newcomers who contribute something to a colony (water, nectar, pollen, honey). So having their honey pouch full would be a contributing factor for the colony and thus be accepted to a new colony. Fanning at the entrance was probably an exchange of "peace offering" pheromones (knowing how capable honey bees are, I would not doubt if they have such a trick in their bag) which served as their pass to the new home. I think that you are right. You were dealing with a "queenless" or "dry" swarm. The bees would not have abandoned their own queen to take up residence in a strange colony. Unlike their human captors, fidelity is a deeply ingrained quality of honey bees not readily given up. Happy beekeeping. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:34:19 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Max Watkins Subject: Vita (Europe) Limited - a new dedicated bee health company Comments: To: wbruce@asrr.arsusda.gov, ULT405@ibm.rhrz.uni-bonn.de, trouiller@hydrus.cc.uniud.it, pkevan@uoguelph.ca, norman.carreck@bbsrc.ac.uk, norberto.milani@pldef.uniud.et, ncalderone@asrr.arsusda.gov, mnasr@evbhort.uoguelph.ca, mathesona@ra.maf.govt.nz, M.Bew@CSL.gov.UK, M.A.Brown@CSL.gov.UK, lassi.kauko@knowledgelease.fi.sandoz.com, kclark@galaxy.gov.bc.ca, johnl@regulatory.hcc.com, ingemar.fries@entom.slu.se, hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch, hshimanuki@asrr.arsusda.gov, dbassand@magnet.ch, DavidD@CABISWD.MSM.CGNET.com, dave_black@tfbplc.demon.co.uk, claire@backlane.demon.co.uk, CABI-IIBC-HQ@CGNET.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="Boundary=_0.0_=0034700005735696" --Boundary=_0.0_=0034700005735696 Dear All, Please see the attached document, which explains the current bee medicine situation vis-a-vis Sandoz/Ciba-Geigy/Novartis and the formation of a new, independent company dedicated to this industry. 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Biology & Horticulture Subject: Re: Vita (Europe) Limited - a new dedicated bee health comp Comments: To: Max Watkins Hi Max: again, your file is doc file. You may need to save it first as text file. Then, you mail the " file.txt" which is ASSCII formated one. Try again Medhat > > > Please see the attached document, which explains the > current bee medicine situation vis-a-vis Sandoz/Ciba-Geigy/Novartis > and the formation of a new, independent company dedicated to this > industry. > > > Best regards, > > > Max > > > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 11:44:14 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: EAS Meeting, Field Trip MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hi: Some recent articles have stimulated interest in our electronic hives. We now have 21 units on-line in Maryland and 7 in Montana. As part of the upcoming Eastern Apicultural Society Meeting in Maryland, we have planned to host a Friday afternoon field trip to Aberdeen (about a 30 minute trip) to see these units. We cordially invite anyone who is interested in this technology to sign up for this trip. You will see the colonies, the electronics, and the computers that are continuously logging and displaying data. Of course, if it rains, the bees won't be very active, but we are hoping for sun. Cheers Jerry J. Bromenshenk jjbmail@selway.umt.edu http://grizzly.umt.edu/biology/bees ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 13:49:20 -0400 Reply-To: "Glen B. Glater" Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Glen B. Glater" Subject: SUGAR-H20 feeding: When to stop Hi folks. OK, I've been watching the traffic for a while and I've seen lots of messages that say: "Keep feeding 1:1 sugar water, the bees will stop taking it when there is a good source of nectar." Here in MA just west of Boston, I have 2 hives and have boardman feeders on each. The hives seem to go through a quart of 1:1 sugar water every 2-3 days, and they don't seem to be slowing down. I put fresh on last night and one hive had made a noticible dent by this morning! I am concerned that the honey that I get is going to be made from this sugar syrup instead of nectar. So, I'm asking again... Should I be feeding my hives 1:1 sugar water still or should I stop? Is it possible that there is such a dearth of nectar in the area that they need this to survive? Voices of experience, let me know what you think. Thanks. --glen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 14:15:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Midnite Bee Subject: Re: Vita (Europe) Limited - a new dedicated bee health company MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee Greetings! Here is the document Max sent. Dear colleague, We would like to inform you that, on July 8th 1997, Vita (Europe) Limited and Novartis Animal Health UK Limited, together with Novartis AG, Basel and Novartis Produkte AG, Animal Health Sector, Basel, Switzerland signed an agreement which transferred the Bee Health Business of Novartis to Vita (Europe) Limited. Under this Agreement the parties have agreed that all rights and contracts for the supply and purchase of the products APISTAN (excluding USA and Canada), APITOL, FOLBEX [and CNEW, a new product under development] shall be assigned to Vita (Europe) Limited as of 1st June 1997. The new Company is headed by two Directors, Jeremy Owen and Dr Max Watkins who previously ran the Bee Business for Sandoz in Europe, North Africa and the Middle East regions. We are keen to continue our close cooperation with all of our friends within the industry and can assure you of a professional service even better than before. For those participating, Vita (Europe) Limited will have a stand at Apimondia '97 in Antwerp, Belgium and we look forward to welcoming you there. Best Regards, Dr Max Watkins Jeremy M. W. Owen > > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:28:42 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: bee population estimates MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Friends: I have not seen an answer to the question on how to estimate bee populations. (Please forgive me if I am not interpreting this question correctly). There is a simple method for this procedure. I hope that I can explain it simply enough for everyone to understand. I learned to do the estimate using the metric system, hence it is easy for me to explain it using the metric system. I think that once you see my explanation, those of you who wish may convert to inches if desired. (I'll use Langstroth frame measurements). Langstroth frames measure 42 x 20 cms or 840 square centimeters. Add both sides and we have 1,680 square centimeters. ( Given: each ten square centimeters have 425 worker brood cells). Hence 160 square centimeters x 425 cells per square centimeter = 6,800 potential worker brood cells Potential because as we all know, only about two thirds of any frame contains brood cells, the balance going to honey storage or remaining empty. Again doing math calculations a la 1930 style: 6,800 potential brood cells 67.33 (two thirds of the cells utilized for worker brood cells) = 4,518 brood cells Assuming that we are using 10 frame brood chambers, we can estimate our brood to be 45,000 strong. Assuming that all of these mature to adults, our worker population can be safely estimated at 45,000 strong. You can make your own calculations (rough estimates about the drone population if you care. Just remember that drones serve one purpose only (besides playing host to Varroa mites in modern times) and that there are a lot of them around during mating time, but calculating their numbers to me have little economic value, (except that they take up worker brood cells), thus I would not bother. I hope that I have made my explanation understandable by all readers. I can give you estimates for other types of frames, but I figure that you can do that by merely substituting figures (dimensions of the frames). Incidentally, I learned to estimate bee populations from one of the World's great beekeepers, Professor, Dr. Andres Romero Fabrega, Leon, Spain: Explotacion Racional del Colmenar, Editorial Sintes, Barcelona, Spain, (1974). Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:45:48 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Apistan problem in Tampa? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Aaron Morris wrote: Well said Aaron. I would like to add (for the laic) that abuse and lack of attention to the prescribed and much recommended instructions, development of resistance is one of the problems that we face in the practice of medicine, be it human or veterinary. There is nothing that the practitioner of manufacturer can do to remedy the harm once it is done. I have long feared that that is precisely the problem with Apistan strips. Those of you who have read my file will remember that I mentioned that I bought a number of hives (severely infested by Varroa mites) and that treatment with Apistan strips did absolutely nothing to the mites. (Did the previous owner exceed recommended dosage?) Altering the physical characteristics of the strips could be releasing more than intended amounts of the pesticide (thus increased efficacy noted). HOWEVER, that increased amount of the active ingredient is going to be incorporated to the brood chamber and its contents. BEWARE of the consequences! I think that the writing is on the wall! Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:50:05 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 9 Jul 1997 to 10 Jul 1997 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit P. Aras et M. Boily wrote: Dear Phillipe: A M E N!!!!!! Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Baech, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:20:05 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Mineral oil use MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit bartlett wrote: Thanks Billy B. That was kind of you. Few others would admit it. Shows you a heck of a guy. Happy beekeeping. You might want to split that colony or may be re-queen. Who wants mean bees anyway? Just a thought. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:38:43 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: feeding water? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jeff Burton wrote: Hi Jeff: Hey, if anything, you might save your bees a lot of flying. They need water in their daily work processes. I would think that is quite applicable in Nevada if you happen to live far from bodies of water. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:45:58 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Swarm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Michael Reddell wrote: Dear Mike: Forgive me for intruding in your business. I am kind of curious that you would not at least try to locate one of the queens when you join swarms. It might be that both queens die in their "ducking it out contest" or the surviving queen might get hurt and not be quite as efficient. Getting rid of one (it should not be difficult in a swarming environment to find one of the queens could save you that degree of difficulty). My suggestion. Sorry if I interfere. Best regards. Dr Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:48:42 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Oil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Michael Reddell wrote: > I really do want to know if mineral oil is present in noticeable > amounts in honey from hives treated with it. Would someone who has > tried it PLEASE answer the question? Hi Mike. This is my first year of testing the oil. I have yet to extract honey since I started testing. I will notify the list if I find oil in the honey. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 18:47:06 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: AARCHER Subject: Re: New Mexico Beekeepers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Si... 2 hives at Gila Hot Springs. No I'm not a member. Details? ---------- > From: Ed Costanza > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: New Mexico Beekeepers > Date: Wednesday, June 25, 1997 1:05 PM > > Are there any New Mexico beekeepers reading BEE-L? Please E-mail me and let > me know if you are a member of the New Mexico Beekeepers association or not. > > Ed Costanza > Edgewood, NM ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 17:09:45 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joe Trattle Subject: Extracting oil seed rape MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Don't try it Mike! The wax will soften and loose it, strength well before it actually melts.= I can just imagine the mess. I have 8 supers of solid OSR honey in my kitchen which I am am scraping down to the midrib with a teaspoon a long and tedious bussiness. I will transfer the scrapings to my uncappi= ng tray to seperate the wax later. I have heard that Willie Robson who runs several hundred colonies up in t= he Borders(England/Scotland) just uses unwired foundation when working OSR and cuts out the lot for melting down at the end of the season. I don't think there are any easy answers this one. Regards Joe Trattle Norfolk UK >I've ended up with some crystalised oil seed rape honey in some of >my frames and was wondering about how to extract it. >How about the following idea?... >Put all the offending frames in a warming cabinet (insulated box >with 2 x 40W light bulbs) for a few days until the temperature >reaches wax melting point minus a safety margin (any ideas for a >value here?). Hopefully all the honey would dissolve back into >liquid form (reasonable assumption???) at this point. Now remove >the frames from the box and let cool for long enough for the wax >harden up so as to withstand normal extraction forces but before >the rape re-crystalises. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 20:24:25 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Fernihough Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 14 Jul 1997 to 15 Jul 1997 Comments: cc: ANDREAS SCHCK Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="us-ascii" Bees will not likely be affected by a high voltage line at a distance of 300 feet. In fact, its quite common in many places to put bees directly under the lines because the access roads provide good routes to the beekeeper. One study did find that bees could be touchy to 'step potential' under very high voltage lines, but you would have to be right under the line for it to be an issue. Step potential is the effect that is sometimes felt when the difference in electric field strength between one foot and the other, causes a small current to flow up one leg and down the other. Humans can get their legs far enough apart to sometimes feel it, bees legs are so close together I can't imagine it ever being an issue. In short, don't worry about it. If it makes you feel better of worse, I am an electrical engineer with the local power company! 0000,0000,ffffW. J. Fernihough (Bill, billfern@istar.ca Engineer, Beekeeper, Computer Nerd ffff,0000,0000All things cometh to he who waiteth if he worketh like hell while he waiteth. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:04:20 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Bee Pollination of Avocados Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I was talking to a local avocado farmer today. He says that recent research indicates that avocados need honeybees for pollination, and this may produce need for more bees in CA. Apparently, the avocado female flower opens in the AM and the male flower opens in the PM. If bees work the AM flowers and then return to the PM flowers, they are bound to have some pollen particles still present on their hind legs unless they are meticulous cleaners. Does anyone have more information about bee pollination and avocados? Also avocado honey is very dark, like molasses. Paul Cronshaw, D.C. Cyberchiro and Hobbyist Beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:23:26 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Paul Cronshaw, D.C." Subject: Smoker Fuel to Sedate AHB Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Does anyone know of special smoker fuel to sedate AHB? I heard that South African beekeepers use wood chips from a certain tree to help calm the tenacity of AHB. And I understand they also work them at night. Looking forward to the day AHB arrives in Santa Barbara. Paul Cronshaw, D.C. Cyberchiro and Hobbyist Beekeeper Santa Barbara, CA USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:32:19 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: Oil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Great! I'm eager to hear how this turns out. ---------- From: \Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez[SMTP:dronebee@norfolk.infi.net] This is my first year of testing the oil. I have yet to extract honey since I started testing. I will notify the list if I find oil in the honey. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 22:51:09 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: Smoker Fuel to Sedate AHB In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 10:23 PM 7/16/97 -0700, you wrote: >Does anyone know of special smoker fuel to sedate AHB? > >I heard that South African beekeepers use wood chips from a certain tree to help calm the tenacity of AHB. Blue Gum bark works well in the areas it grows in California. >And I understand they also work them at night. I am sure that beekeepers in South Africa are no different then those in any other area and for each beekeeper you will find a different method of working bees. At one time at least one beekeeper in SA worked his bees at night as reported in the Bee Journal, but that only speaks for that one. I have visited with one or two that worked at night but it is unclear if they all do or still do it in the dark today. I do know for a fact that some beekeepers in South Africa are very cautious when working around bees. A friend passed on this info about a guest he had in his apiary in Australia visiting from South Africa. "I was showing this beekeeper my queen rearing system and he and I entered our breeder and nuc yard which was back of the honey barn. I walked over and opened the lid of one of my best breeder queens using only the smoke from my ever present cancer stick and proceeded to pull out the center frames to show my guest the brood pattern and queen. When I looked up from my work I could find only the foot prints of my guest from Africa." "I guess I should have warned him that the uniform for working bees in this area of Australia is cut off's, short sleeve shirts, no bee veil, and as little smoke as may be necessary. The only thing different from what I learned in California is I have a Bush hat that replaced the ever present baseball had seen at home" >Looking forward to the day AHB arrives in Santa Barbara. Well Paul, If you really are interested in AHB I will send you the address of one beekeeper who has them in Arizona and you could visit with him and I am sure he would bee happy to give you a breeder queen so you can get a head start on nature. ttul, the OLd Drone ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 18:01:31 +1100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Nick Wallingford Subject: Re: Bees under power lines In-Reply-To: <12483432316959@systronix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Here in Australia I have heard anecdotal stories of bees becoming confused > when placed under high voltage power lines. There are stories of a drop > off in numbers in the hives. The theory is that as bees often use the > earth's magnetic field to navigate, then the magnetic fields produced by > the power lines causes the confusion. I recall some very strange research that exposed colonies to *very high* electromagnetic fields. At the top end, the colonies showed very erratic behaviour - they propolised all of the entrances shut and 'committed suicide' (No, no, I didn't say that! No anthropomorphism from here! Don't start on me!). (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@wave.co.nz (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 23:02:31 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: Smoker Fuel to Sedate AHB MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I haven't tried it my self, but I saw a video last winter at the local = bee assoc. meeting about handling AHB in Texas. They would put a = teaspoon of high nitrogen fertilizer in the smoker with their regular = smoker fuel. When the fertilizer burns it apparently makes nitrous = oxide (laughing gas) which completely knocks out the bees for about 10 = minutes. During that time they made preliminary measurements and if = they thought the bees were AHB they soaked the unconcious bees with a = dish soap solution to exterminate them. Michael ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 18:04:58 +1100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Nick Wallingford Subject: Re: Bee Pollination of Avocados In-Reply-To: <05194367619153@systronix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Does anyone have more information about bee pollination and avocados? I did a seminar talk some years ago that started out: "Avocados are a protogynous dicogamy with synchronous daily complementarity" There are Type A varieties and Type B. They are complimentary in the sense that when one has male flowers open, the other has female. In NZ it isn't such a big issue, as we get cooler evenings, and the types are not so strict in their flowering... (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@wave.co.nz (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 00:04:38 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: Swarms MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez wrote: > I am kind of curious that you would not at least try to locate one of > the queens when you join swarms. It might be that both queens die in > their "ducking it out contest" or the surviving queen might get hurt = and > not be quite as efficient. Getting rid of one (it should not be > difficult in a swarming environment to find one of the queens could = save > you that degree of difficulty). I guess a lot of people would be more comfortable with the method you = suggest, but here's my thinking and experience on the subject: In large apiaries, swarms often combine naturally when they emerge from = several hives about the same time. These swarms can be huge (referred = to as "barrel swarms") and have as many queens as there are hives = contributing a swarm. I've seen 4 queens in one large swarm. My 19 = pounder from earlier this year qualified as a small barrel swarm. I have had very good success letting nature take it's course with = multiple queens in swarms. As a general rule, the surviving queen is = not injured. I also have no way to know which queen will perform = better. How would I choose the one to keep? The big healthy looking = queen in a swarm may be old and running out of sperm or eggs even though = she still looks good. Quite often the queen in a swarm fails soon from = old age. My theory is that combining swarms gives better odds of ending = up with a relatively young queen. I assume that younger queens are = more inclined to fight than older ones, and thus more likely to win. = Also, I suspect that the bees help with the decision about which queen = will survive.=20 I usually requeen swarm hives no later than Fall of the year I capture = them anyway. The exception to that is when I know the swarm emerged with a young or = even virgin queen and she turns out to be a good one. In that case I = might give her an extra year. Another reason I don't look for queens in swarms is that I prefer to get = them in the box ASAP and quit bothering them so they can settle into = their new home. As I said in my previous post, 40 of 42 swarms this = year have stayed put in my boxes, and I suspect they're less stressed by = having to deal with multiple queens than they would be by my rummaging = around looking for queens. How many would I look for? How would I know = when to stop looking? The bottom line is honeybees are well designed to settle queen = controversies. They don't really need much help from me. Michael ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 09:10:37 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Alyn W. Ashworth" Subject: Re: Width of opening in super In-Reply-To: <12435886716938@systronix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 In message <12435886716938@systronix.net>, Excerpts from BEE-L writes >From: Vince Coppola >Reply-to: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > >> Does the opening of the beehive affect it's production? The person I got >> the bees from placed wood on both sides of the base to reduce the >> opening. Are they necessary, or limiting anything.... > >For many years I belived that I had to remove the entrance reducer each >spring and put it back in each fall. I finally took the advice of a local >expert and tried leaving them in. I could see no advantage to taking them >in and out so now they just stay in. Colonies can make huge crops with just >a 3/8" X 2 1/2" entrance. On the other hand, a lot of work has been done on improving hive ventilation, for example with open mesh floors. Does anyone know of any well-researched conclusions? -- Alyn W. Ashworth Lancashire & North-West Bee-Keepers' Association. UK. (but I don't speak on their bee-half) http://www.demon.co.uk/emphasys ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 12:00:00 +0002 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Krell, Rainer (REUS)" Subject: Re: HIGH TENSION LINE AND BEES MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT There have been papers published on this topic 10 -15 yrs back; though I don't have reference now. Bees appeared to increase in nervousness, I don't think there was a significant change in production. I Germany there is much concern about health effects of normal electric currency in households; mostly due to the frequency of the alternating current, i.e. the electromagnetic fields and their fluctuations created. The rhythms create a resonance in biological systems which can lead to immediate and long-term health effects. It only makes sense to me that these effects can be extrapolated to other biological organisms, particularly those known to be very sensitive to electromagnetic fields like bees. Biological organisms are also very flexible and tolerant in compensating for all kinds of negative environmental impacts, add enough of these and you will get a significant breakdown. No way of telling yet what the effect is on the more subtle health characteristics of the honey produced under these conditions. My suggestion: you want to reduce stress to your bees as much as possible, don't keep them near HT lines. Isn't it the beekeepers task to take care of the bees in his boxes as best as he can? ---------- >From: null >To: BestOfBee >Subject: Re: HIGH TENSION LINE AND BEES >Date: Wednesday, July 16, 1997 11:17PM > >>ARE THERE ANY STUDIES OR ANTECEDENT ABOUT THIS MATTER ? (THE NEAREST >>APIARY IS ABOUT 100 METERS FROM THE LINE). > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 12:42:22 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Max Watkins Subject: Re[2]: Apistan problem in Tampa? Comments: To: owner-bee-l@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU WHOOAAA there! We don't know that any "harm" has been done yet. There can be several reasons for anomalies in efficacy, besides tau-fluvalinate resistance in Varroa. Until this has been fully investigated, (preferably using the resistance test methodology developed by our team in Europe) it is wise to keep an open mind. I understand that Wellmark International (Sandoz Agro Inc that was) is currently investigating these cases with the appropriate experts. I agree with your comments about following label instructions for legalised [bee] medicines. The threat of resistance is very real and illegal, untested practices may have negative impact on the industry. Regards, Max ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Apistan problem in Tampa? Author: owner-bee-l@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU at INTERNET1 Date: 7/16/97 11:49 PM Aaron Morris wrote: Well said Aaron. I would like to add (for the laic) that abuse and lack of attention to the prescribed and much recommended instructions, development of resistance is one of the problems that we face in the practice of medicine, be it human or veterinary. There is nothing that the practitioner of manufacturer can do to remedy the harm once it is done. I have long feared that that is precisely the problem with Apistan strips. Those of you who have read my file will remember that I mentioned that I bought a number of hives (severely infested by Varroa mites) and that treatment with Apistan strips did absolutely nothing to the mites. (Did the previous owner exceed recommended dosage?) Altering the physical characteristics of the strips could be releasing more than intended amounts of the pesticide (thus increased efficacy noted). HOWEVER, that increased amount of the active ingredient is going to be incorporated to the brood chamber and its contents. BEWARE of the consequences! I think that the writing is on the wall! Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 12:43:48 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Max Watkins Subject: Vita (Europe) Limited - reformatted Comments: To: wbruce@asrr.arsusda.gov, ULT405@ibm.rhrz.uni-bonn.de, trouiller@hydrus.cc.uniud.it, pkevan@uoguelph.ca, norman.carreck@bbsrc.ac.uk, norberto.milani@pldef.uniud.et, ncalderone@asrr.arsusda.gov, mnasr@evbhort.uoguelph.ca, mathesona@ra.maf.govt.nz, M.Bew@CSL.gov.UK, M.A.Brown@CSL.gov.UK, kclark@galaxy.gov.bc.ca, johnl@regulatory.hcc.com, ingemar.fries@entom.slu.se, hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch, hshimanuki@asrr.arsusda.gov, dbassand@magnet.ch, DavidD@CABISWD.MSM.CGNET.com, dave_black@tfbplc.demon.co.uk, claire@backlane.demon.co.uk, CABI-IIBC-HQ@CGNET.COM MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="Boundary=_0.0_=0034700005745742" --Boundary=_0.0_=0034700005745742 Apologies to those who could not read the message attached to my original transmission yesterday. Please find attached a reformatted version of that announcement. Let me know if there are any other difficulties in deciphering this. Max --Boundary=_0.0_=0034700005745742 TO: All involved in the honeybee industry Date: 16 July, 1997 Concerning: Transfer of Bee Health Business from Novartis to Vita (Europe) Limited ..................................................................................................................................................................... Dear colleague, We would like to inform you that, on July 8th 1997, Vita (Europe) Limited and Novartis Animal Health UK Limited, together with Novartis AG, Basel and Novartis Produkte AG, Animal Health Sector, Basel, Switzerland signed an agreement which transferred the Bee Health Business of Novartis to Vita (Europe) Limited. Under this Agreement the parties have agreed that all rights and contracts for the supply and purchase of the products APISTAN (excluding USA and Canada), APITOL, FOLBEX [and CNEW, a new product under development] shall be assigned to Vita (Europe) Limited as of 1st June 1997. The new Company is headed by two Directors, Jeremy Owen and Dr Max Watkins who previously ran the Bee Business for Sandoz in Europe, North Africa and the Middle East regions. We are keen to continue our close cooperation with all of our friends within the industry and can assure you of a professional service even better than before. For those participating, Vita (Europe) Limited will have a stand at Apimondia '97 in Antwerp, Belgium and we look forward to welcoming you there. Best Regards, Dr Max Watkins Jeremy M. W. Owen Dr Max Watkins Vita (Europe) Limited SGS House 217-221 London Road Camberley Surrey GU15 3EY England This address will change in late August and will be posted. Tel Direct: 44 (0) 1276 670471 Fax 44 (0) 1276 25769 --Boundary=_0.0_=0034700005745742-- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 09:20:53 -0700 Reply-To: vcoppla@epix.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Width of opening in super MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Alyn W. Ashworth wrote: > On the other hand, a lot of work has been done on improving hive > ventilation, for example with open mesh floors. Does anyone know of any well-researched conclusions? > Most of our colonies are on standard bottom boards with the 3/8"X2 1/2" entrance and a 3/8"X 1" upper entrance as mentioned before. We also run several hundred hives with screened bottoms. There entrance is 3/4" X 14", quite large. They also have upper ventilation. This is an extream differance with regard to ventilation. If there was a significant advantage to ventilation I should be able to see some improvement in production. We have detailed production records for 14 years and cannot see any differance between the two styles of hives. In very warm weather (for Western New York - about 85-95F) bees will cluster on the front of each style hive equally. This my sound contrary to reason, I have no idea why its this way, and yet thats what we see here. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 11:03:26 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Ventillation - Slatted Bottom racks (was width of hive opening) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT The discussion of width of hive opening has touched on ventillation, which has also been discussed a bit on this list. Vince Coppola posted he's unable to notice a difference between solid and screened bottom boards. I'm wondering about slatted bottom racks. Killion's _Honey_in_the_Comb_ says they are REQUIRED EQUIPMENT, both to improve ventillation and to give bees room to hang out in a crowded comb honey production hive. I've grown into the habit of using slatted bottom racks on all my hives but have never done any "scientific" studies to determine if they improve things for the bees. Any opinions or hard facts? For those who are not familiar with slatted bottom racks, they're a piece of equipment that goes on top of the bottom board. They're the same size as an inner cover, but about 2 inches thicker. The front end has a slat about 4 inches wide and then there are 13 3/4 inch slats spaced with 1/2 inch gaps between the slats. Bees land on the bottom board and get into the hive bodies through the gaps between the slats. This ventillation issue is funny to me. Most books warn against drafts (mainly a winter concern), yet it seems that more and more things are leaning towards increased and improved ventillation. Seems there is a dichotomy here. Perhaps the "best" hives are the old drafty ones!? Anyway, any comments on slatted bottom racks? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 10:39:20 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: On-line Bee Ads MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT For those of you who use the Free Bee Ads page at http://www.internode.net/honeybee/BeeAds/index.htm It has been brought to my attention that it has been demanding a password lately. I also notice that things are a bit screwed up and must get around to figure why several ads appear on one page. Anyhow, I think I have fixed it. I don't know how long it has been acting up, so please -- anytime you notice any problems with it -- do write me and let me know, since I don't check it all that often. TIA Allen ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 13:43:35 -0300 Reply-To: rcarlos@alunos.ufv.br Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Rui Carlos Peruquetti Organization: Universidade Federa de Vicosa - Minas Gerais - Brazil Subject: Insecticide and bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi everyone, Reginaldo Proque, a graduate student, is beginning a work on impact of insecticide in beekeeping. So, he is need recent references about this subject. If someone in the list can help him, please, send the reply to this to apiario@mail.ufv.br. Thanks. -- Rui Carlos Peruquetti Universidade Federal de Vicosa Departamento de Biologia Geral 36571-000 - Vicosa - MG - Brazil ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 10:57:05 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Berube Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 15 Jul 1997 to 16 Jul 1997 Comments: To: Rainer.Krell@fao.org Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Rainier, >From: "Krell, Rainer (REUS)" >Subject: Transgenic pollen >...With labeling control and controlled distribution just about becoming >impossible where will be our rights of free choice (between transgenic food, >organic food, pesticide or hormone etc. treated food, additives etc.) and >for reduced rather than increased pollution. I'm not against the development of transgenic organisms per se but believe that the legislation and implementation of the technology falls far short of what it should be. I think labelling of transgenic produce should be mandated to allow choices in the marketplace and that specific instructions for deployment (such as for headland and perimeter planting only) of transgenic plants containing pest control genes (such as corn or cotton containing Bt proteins) should be included as legally-binding pesticide labelling on the seed. Here's a way of combatting companies that are irresponsibly marketing transgenic plants containing pest-control agents: Grow a nons-transgenic variety of the same plant for seed in fields next to someone who is growing a transgenic crop. If any of the plants on your land are pollinated by plants from the adjoining crop and prove to have picked up the transgenic traits then you can either: * sue the neighboring grower and transgenic seed producer for contaminating your seed crop with "pesticide drift" (I would think that a strong case could be made here) * start selling the transgenic seed derived from your own lands undercutting the originator and bypassing all their R&D costs and make some cash (if transgenic seed producers are going to claim proprietorship on spliced-in genes then they'll have to take financial responsibility for making sure the genes don't contaminate adjoining lands where the same crop is grown--unless labelling guidelines have been violated by whoever out in the crop of transgenic seed, in which case I think the latter would be legally responsible-- as is the case with conventional pesticide drift-- except in this case it would likely be much easier to prove where the transgenic pollen came from until these products become more widespread. Transgenic plants and other organisms can be powerful tools but at the moment the legislation governing their use in the field and in marketable produce seems woefully lax. '\ /` ()() \/\ Conrad Berube ____ /`\ \\ ISLAND CROP MANAGEMENT / ; ; /` `\/'\\ _____________ 613 Hecate St. ` /` `' \`-===========/~~\ Nanaimo, B.C. V9R 4K4 \ \ -^\ /\____/^^^~> (250)754-2482; fax: (250)656-8922 |/ '\ '\~~~~~~~~ email: uc779@freenet.victoria.bc.ca '\ '\ website: http://pinc.com/~bwarner/ \__\__ `` `` ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 20:17:25 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 15 Jul 1997 to 16 Jul 1997 In-Reply-To: > ------------------------------ Hi All This post is wrong in a few repects, or else I am. > A thought in reference to the news below on transgenic pollen: > Labeling of genetically manipulated crops will become more and more > difficult and controlled distribution of the genetic material quite > difficult, independent of whether it is a health hazard or not. Considering > that bees will be able to pick up this pollen, even honey from areas in > which these plants are grown would have to be labeled as containing > genetically manipulated material! The rest of the pot deals with a fear of this happening. I would like to put in my little punt for this technology. Who cares if other plants get these genes. Iif conventiional crops pick up resiistance to spider mite who cares? Less p[esticide all round as far a Ii can see. Then iif some new horror tobacco or successful other plant should take advantage of thesse genes, we can pend the money saved on medical bill for pesticide damaged human, ducks etc and actual production costs as well to find a way of solving that problem. The strength of human sciience is not what we have done wrong, but rather the spead with whiiich we solve the problems each cure has produced. ie sure the trangenic plant have problem, but they are better problems than mendels peas had. (DDT, Dieldrin, etc) > With labeling control and controlled distribution just about becoming > impossible where will be our rights of free choice (between transgenic food, > organic food, pesticide or hormone etc. treated food, additives etc.) and > for reduced rather than increased pollution. About the same place. Get a nice little seed bank goiing in some dodgy third world country and use seed from there. > This is just some food for thought; but let's keep the food for our minds at > least cleaner than the one we use for our bodies. On this score, this is DNA phobic. Genetically engineered crop usuallu use DNA as a weapon against pest etc. IE we can digest DNA, but cannot digest pesticiides. Just my food for though. Keep well Garth --- Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about Grahamstown catfood." 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 In general, generalisations are bad. But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 14:45:33 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: yves steinmetz Subject: Re: Fogging Mineral Oil Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 17:15 11/07/97 -0500, you wrote: >Reply-to: Discussion of Bee Biology >From: Edward A Craft Jr > >Keeping 800 hives leaves no time to put oil on top bars. I decided that I >needed to come up with something else. > I'm waiting your comments. Thank you for doing that essay. With more than 1000 beehives your method will be the solution. How did you do to kow if you fog more or less than 2.5 to 3 cc with this spray method? Did you know somthing about viscosity of your MO? Beekeeping is a pleasure! Reply to: Yves Steinmetz Fax 56-71-241089 P.O. Box 1014 - Talca, CHILE ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 14:47:47 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Midnite Bee Subject: Re: Ventillation - Slatted Bottom racks (was width of hive opening) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee Greetings! I have used the slatted racks for the last 3 years and noticed that there is less gnawing of the comb. The bees have more room to roam. Also, I have noticed a straighter comb production. It is claimed to help in a better brood nest. I believe it was developed by Dr.C.Miller. I am not a scientist, just an observation I have made before and after I have been installed these racks. Midnitebee(Herb) ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 14:48:49 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Fredrick, Heidi" Subject: Mineral Oil Fogging Results MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any of you who try this method, please report your observations! I am very interested in learning about this method of treatment. Heidi Fredrick ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 22:22:02 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Subject: Re: Mites Subject: Re: Mites Hi All As regards the post about sighting mites of a redish nature running around the front board of the hive: I do not know whether the natural hive 'pseudoscorpions' which are found in south africa occur in european bee populations as well. In my area as well as further up in africa one is likely to find populations of small pseudoscorpions attached to swarms. These animals are also resident in the hives and as far as I have read are believed to be harmless. I believe they feed on smaller mites and things in the hive. Apparently they are less common in man kept hives. Swarms that were infested usually lost the mites in my experience. (three cases). I saw one mite walking on the entrance board, but speedy was not a word I would use to describe it!! Keep well Garth --- Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about Grahamstown catfood." 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 In general, generalisations are bad. But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 15:56:20 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: RICHARD BARNES Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Mites Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" If these things feed on smaller mites, could they be a natural treatment for our mites, t and v? At 10:22 PM 7/17/97 GMT+0200, you wrote: >Subject: Re: Mites > >Hi All > >As regards the post about sighting mites of a redish nature running >around the front board of the hive: > >I do not know whether the natural hive 'pseudoscorpions' which are >found in south africa occur in european bee populations as well. > >In my area as well as further up in africa one is likely to find >populations of small pseudoscorpions attached to swarms. These >animals are also resident in the hives and as far as I have read are >believed to be harmless. I believe they feed on smaller mites and >things in the hive. Apparently they are less common in man kept >hives. Swarms that were infested usually lost the mites in my >experience. (three cases). > >I saw one mite walking on the entrance board, but speedy was not a >word I would use to describe it!! > >Keep well > >Garth >--- >Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those >15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about >Grahamstown catfood." >6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* >South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 > >In general, generalisations are bad. >But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. > > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 16:56:20 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kim Flottum Subject: Bee Pollination of Avocados Hello, Avocados and honey bees have been linked since the 20s. McGregor's book outlines the pollination requirements fairly well. About 1 colony/acre, but in bunches. Check the book for detailes. Kim Flottum, Bee Culture Magazine ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 17:03:33 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Mites MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Garth wrote: Here is something of great interest to me. Does anyone know if this variety of "pseudo scorpions" has been used as a biological control agent for bee mites? Please reply if anyone has knowledge about the subject. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 14:39:10 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Bees under power lines On Thu, 17 Jul 1997 18:01:31 +1100 Nick Wallingford writes: >and 'committed suicide' (No, no, I didn't say that! No >anthropomorphism from here! Don't start on me!). Would we do that to you Nick? BTW...whatever happened with the NZ Association Bee Site? Gone forever? Al, awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Honey Bees & Beekeeping - / - Doktor Finkle Play " Interlotto " and win at: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ > > > (\ Nick Wallingford > {|||8- home nickw@wave.co.nz > (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 05:52:15 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Edward A Craft Jr Subject: Re: Fogging Mineral Oil Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >At 17:15 11/07/97 -0500, you wrote: >>Reply-to: Discussion of Bee Biology >>From: Edward A Craft Jr >> >>> >I'm waiting your comments. Thank you for doing that essay. >With more than 1000 beehives your method will be the solution. >How did you do to kow if you fog more or less than 2.5 to 3 cc >with this spray method? >Did you know somthing about viscosity of your MO? > >Beekeeping is a pleasure! > > >Yves Please don't credit me for something that doesn't work yet. IF it eventually does work then the credit belongs to Dr. Rodriquez and others on the list who mentioned the idea that I am looking into. The amount of oil that comes out in the fog is very difficult to measure. There is some more study that needs to be done there. I destroyed the original post from Dr. Rodriquez but I was under the impression that it was 2.5 cc per frame. I'm sure someone can help here. I will keep you informed of anything new > > > Reply to: > > Yves Steinmetz > > Fax 56-71-241089 > P.O. Box 1014 - Talca, CHILE > > Ed Craft 14887 Oldham Dr Orlando, FL 32826 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 16:10:01 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Donald Aitken Subject: Re: Ventillation - Slatted Bottom racks (was width of hive opening) In-Reply-To: <970717.113128.EDT.SYSAM@cnsibm.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I tried six of the slotted racks when I was producing cut comb honey. They did not seem to make any difference in production. The hives that have them don't cluster as much on the front of the hive in hot weather as do their neighbours with ordinary bottom boards. They might pay their way in a hotter climate than ours, but they are probably not worthwhile here. Donald Aitken 11710-129 Street Edmonton Alberta Canada T5M 0Y7 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 19:05:46 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: Ventillation - Slatted Bottom racks (was width of hive opening) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The rack basically provides extra room for the bees, in which they cannot construct comb. That is, the spacing between the bars is a bee-space, so they have some room to cluster without letting them "build down" off the bottoms of the brood frames. In section comb honey this is important (using the traditional Killion/crowding plan) so that you can have lots of bees crammed into a brood chamber, with no choice but to go up and work in the sections. On the other hand, the commercial "flat" bottom boards are only 3/8" or so deep, and so provide a fairly narrow entrance. Yet the bees do well with them, too. I haven't used the s. racks, but at one time built "tunnel entrances" for my comb honey colonies. The tunnels were in effect the front, solid portion of a Killion slatted rack, and jutted into the entrances about 4" or so. Fitted into the 7/8" (deep) side of a standard bottom board, they provided a 3/8" high entrance. The tunnels helped to reduce the gnawing away of the bottoms of the brood combs, so that the single brood box could contain a full complement of quality cells for the queens' laying. Made out of masonite, the tunnels were chewed away pretty well after a couple of seasons, and I didn't bother with them anymore. The racks are probably quite beneficial on any hive, but still, it's another piece of gear to worry about... Best regards, JWG Freeville, NY ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 21:15:13 PDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert O'Hara Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders In-Reply-To: <33CBCA51.B74@InfoAve.Net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; X-MAPIextension=".TXT" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I seen these advertised in the bee catalogs. I am thinking of building one of the baggie feeders. My question is "How long are the slits that you cut in the top of the baggie after it is placed into fedder box. I have measured the baggie and it is about 10 inches square. Too if you cut the slits too long, wouldn't about the sugar syrup run out of the baggie. Would not the heat cause the syrup to expand and run out too. Maybe thats what is suppose to do? I would like to try one. Anyone with answers to these questions? Mark F. Almond Concord, NC Hi Mark Don't use a baggie feeder unless you want to drown your bees. My first ever package of bees coupled with a cold wet spring and a baggie feeder was my first bee disaster. Made the slits about one inch long just like the instructions said and baggie drooped and leaked all over the frames. The poor bees clustered on the inner cover trying to get dry. If the weather had not been so cold they might have dried out and cleaned themselves up. They have to travel too far to get the syrup and a much better method is a gallon jar on inner cover hole surrounded by empty hive body and cover. My second package thrived and ate 5 gallons of 1:1 sugar water until I felt I was pampering them. Best Regards Rob Robert O'Hara rohara@stratos.net 13155 Dorothy Dr. Chesterland, Ohio 44026 AA8IB Amateur Radio Two Hives ; 1st Year Beekeeper ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 20:19:26 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Robert O'Hara wrote: > Don't use a baggie feeder unless you want to drown your bees. My first > ever package of bees coupled with a cold wet spring and a baggie feeder > was my first bee disaster. Made the slits about one inch long just like Hi Rob - Keep in mind that one negative experience with a procedure doesn't necessarily mean that it's not good or shouldn't be recommended. I think you pointed out some of the reasons why you may have had a negative experience with the feeders. Cold is one of them. You are very correct in pointing out the pros of "jar" feeding as the benifits are many especially in the cold weather. When I used the baggie method, I was wanting to get alot of "feed" to the bees in a short time and it was done in the early fall. I had extracted a fall crop of honey from a couple of hives and I had some earlier honey that I had extracted that was a little too wet so I gave it back to them. In this setting, the baggie did very well for me. I don't know how others have used this system but like everything, it has limits too. Regards -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 14:24:05 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Walter T. Weller" Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 15 Jul 1997 to 16 Jul 1997 On Thu, 17 Jul 1997 10:57:05 -0700 Conrad Berube writes: > > * sue the neighboring grower and transgenic seed producer > for contaminating your seed crop with "pesticide drift" > (I would think that a strong case could be made here) > > * start selling the transgenic seed derived from your own >lands > undercutting the originator and bypassing all their R&D >costs > and make some cash (if transgenic seed producers are going > to claim proprietorship on spliced-in genes then they'll > have to take financial responsibility for making sure the > genes don't contaminate adjoining lands where the same crop >is >grown--unless labelling guidelines have been violated by whoever > out in the crop of transgenic seed, in which case I think >the > latter would be legally responsible-- as is the case with >conventional pesticide drift-- except in this case it would > likely be much easier to prove where the transgenic pollen >came > from until these products become more widespread. Oh, good grief!! Just what we need -- more ideas for law-suits! We have enough members of the legal "profession" coming up with them already! I wish all you contentious litigious characters severe cases of Varroa and AFB in all your colonies. Walter Weller (retired attorney) ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 21:40:55 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Donald Aitken Subject: Re: Extracting oil seed rape In-Reply-To: <199707161710_MC2-1B03-B459@compuserve.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII In my area, rapeseed ( we call it Canola ) is the major honey plant. It granulates very quickly and my approach is to extract every week during the flow. It is quite difficult to deal with once it has begun to granulate. The crop here is usually quite low moisture content and we can get away with extracting combs which just show a band of capping along the top edge. If you wait until the comb is fully capped it is often too late. Honey can be melted in the comb without destroying the comb but it is fairly tricky to do. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Probably the most cost effective way to clear the combs of granulated honey is to feed it back to the bees in the spring. Donald Aitken 11710-129 Street Edmonton Alberta Canada T5M 0Y7 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 20:37:10 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Roy Nettlebeck Subject: Re: Ventillation - Slatted Bottom racks (was width of hive opening) In-Reply-To: <970717.113128.EDT.SYSAM@cnsibm.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Thu, 17 Jul 1997, Aaron Morris wrote: > The discussion of width of hive opening has touched on ventillation, > which has also been discussed a bit on this list. Vince Coppola > posted he's unable to notice a difference between solid and screened > bottom boards. I'm wondering about slatted bottom racks. Killion's > _Honey_in_the_Comb_ says they are REQUIRED EQUIPMENT, both to improve > ventillation and to give bees room to hang out in a crowded comb > honey production hive. I've grown into the habit of using slatted > bottom racks on all my hives but have never done any "scientific" > studies to determine if they improve things for the bees. Any opinions > or hard facts? For those who are not familiar with slatted bottom > racks, they're a piece of equipment that goes on top of the bottom board. > They're the same size as an inner cover, but about 2 inches thicker. > The front end has a slat about 4 inches wide and then there are 13 3/4 > inch slats spaced with 1/2 inch gaps between the slats. Bees land on > the bottom board and get into the hive bodies through the gaps between > the slats. > > This ventillation issue is funny to me. Most books warn against drafts > (mainly a winter concern), yet it seems that more and more things are > leaning towards increased and improved ventillation. Seems there is > a dichotomy here. Perhaps the "best" hives are the old drafty ones!? > > Anyway, any comments on slatted bottom racks? > Hello All, I have have talked with Jim Bach our (Washington State Apiarist ) at some lenght about slatted racks. He uses them on all of his hives. I will be making some for my hives before winter. They have to have a positive affect on the hives in the summer also.Bees cannot be bunched up on the brood in the bottem box or you will have a swarming problem. I have looked at some other peoples bees this year that were swarming with the bottem box full and room in the second box.Congestion in the brood box will trigger swarming , even with a new queen. Ventilation is a must. Moisture needs to be removed or you will have sick bees. I came up with a top board that would get the moisture out but keep the heat in , with the contol left up to the bees.They can cover a screen that I have in the middle of my top and cut down the air flow. The slatted rack will slow down the cold air before it gets to the bottem bars of the lower brood box. That has to be a plus for winter. You are better off with a full 3/8 inch opening at the bottem and a slatted rack than cutting down the enterance to a couple of inches. I have left my enterance open without a slatted rack and lost one out of 50 last winter. I had 3 feet of snow on them at one time and still had no problem. I think the slatted rack will give you a larger brood nest in the early spring. Best Regards Roy ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 01:27:44 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Fogging Mineral Oil MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------2BC71D307C851D700BEA22C3" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------2BC71D307C851D700BEA22C3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Edward A Craft Jr wrote: Dear Ed: I have worked with many dosages and found that 2.5 cc worked well. Since I have applied up to 33 cc without causing any harm to the bees. As you state, further research needs to be performed in this area before we can determine what is best. Good luck. I am attaching my original file for you to have if you think that you want to have a copy of it for references. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez --------------2BC71D307C851D700BEA22C3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="mineral oil for bee mites treatment.txt" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="mineral oil for bee mites treatment.txt" From - Tue Jun 03 22:08:22 1997 Return-Path: Received: from sysx.systronix.net (SYSX.SYSTRONIX.NET [204.209.166.9]) by mh004.infi.net (8.8.5/8.8.5) with SMTP id SAA17786 for ; Tue, 3 Jun 1997 18:54:02 -0400 (EDT) Received: from dialin9.internode.net (dialin9.internode.net [198.161.228.109]) by sysx.systronix.net (NTMail 3.02.13) with ESMTP id za033643 for ; Tue, 3 Jun 1997 16:55:59 -0600 Comments: Authenticated sender is From: "Allen Dick" Organization: The Beekeepers To: dronebee@pilot.infi.net Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 16:53:49 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Subject: (Fwd) Bee Mites And Mineral Oil Reply-to: allend@internode.net Priority: normal X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Win32 (v2.53/R1) Message-Id: <22555949301934@systronix.net> X-UIDL: 7c4aad5e0b1e438a2d7d75dd3c21f20f X-Mozilla-Status: 2001 ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- From: "Excerpts from BEE-L" Organization: BestOfBee@systronix.net To: allend@internode.net Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 16:49:52 -0500 Subject: (Fwd) Bee Mites And Mineral Oil Priority: normal Here is the text copy which I have relayed to Best of Bee just now. You may wish to cut and paste it into an email and try posting to BEE-L again. If you would like, I could send it there for you. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Your following message has been delivered to the 242 members of the list BestOfBee@systronix.net at 16:45:36 on 3 Jun 1997. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here is Dr Pedro Rodriguez's release regarding his mineral oil research: --- Bee Mites And Mineral Oil I wish to apologize for the delay in publication of details of my work on this subject. The reasons are unintentional and compelling. There were many questions that I felt needed to be answered (some of which I am still pursuing) and because I suffer from double vision (from a bout with hyperthyroidism) that induces severe headaches after periods of field work, reading, use of word processor and other tasks that require eye strain. Although the project is incomplete, I feel that my findings are significant and valuable to beekeepers who may wish to implement them. Also, my findings may be valuable to other investigators who may wish to perform related work on this subject. Hence release of present findings is considered appro- priate at this stage. (Technical language and statistical data has been carefully limited). Background: Born and raised on a farm, I was initiated with animal husbandry chores as a very young child. I started caring for sick animals by smuggling them into pens heavily crowded by my "patients." I still recall my parents' admonitions for "wasting" time and money on "worthless" causes, especially my mother's for using her castor oil to treat leg mites on chickens and ear mites on rabbits. My experience with mineral oil continued when as a young veterinarian I used mineral oil for treating ear mites on cats. Later in my career, mineral oil became part of my professional "tool bag" when as a government supervisor of food plants, I approved the use of food grade mineral oil for maintenance of food preparation equipment. I observed the first Varroa mites in 1983 while working with honey bees in Spain. From that date, I became fascinated with the ability of the little creatures for attacking honey bee colonies and eventually destroying them. At the time, Fulvex was the chemical of choice in Europe for treatment and cure of bee mites. I suspected mites would eventually develop re- sistance to Fulvex as most often happens with chemicals used for disease control, fact that was later corroborated by other investigators (Faucon et al, 1955; Lodesani et al, 1955; Smodgen et al, 1955). The potential need for a different agent to treat bee mites in case the mites develop resistance, led me to wonder if my "oil treatment of old" would be as effective for the treatment of bee mites. While pondering about this possibility, many other questions arose in my mind. 1. would mineral oil affect honey bees? 2. mode, quantity and frequency of application of the oil. 3. would the oil affect bee larvae or the egg laying ability of the queen? 4. could the oil be applied all year long or be limited to seasons? 5. what would be the mechanism of action of the oil? >From my previous experience, I knew that oil kills mites. I became intrigued with the idea of finding the answer to this puzzling question and started researching literature on mite biology, anatomy, physiology and other factors that could lead to the answer deriving the following data. 1. the body of the bee mites is flat, thus having a high ratio of surface volume (factor also used by Italian researchers of bee mites as expressed on a recent post to Bee-L), charac- teristic that make bee mites vulnerable to treatment with oils. 2. mites, like honey bees, breathe through spiracles. The bee/mite body size differential ratio may be utilized to attack the mites with oil without harming the bees. 3. mites utilize body pores for diffusion of gases and for moisture intake (Gary et al, 1989; Gary et al 1991b; Pugh et al 1992). A study with female mites has demonstrated that mites control gaseous exchange through adjustment of components of their respiratory system (Pugh, PJA; King, PE; Fordy MR Na: Experimental and Applied Acarology, Vol. 15, No. 2, pp 123-139, 1992). 4. mites have a short life cycle (12 days for tracheal mites and 18 days for Varroa mites) and are most vulnerable to treatment during their ectoparasitic phase. After eleven years of consecutive loses of bee colonies to mites and the economic impact that these parasites were having on apiculture worldwide, it was obvious that it was imperative to find an effective treatment for the parasites. Realizing that after continued treatment of my colonies with Apistan strips, mites continued to proliferate and that colony health and size were diminishing, I determined that a vigorous form of treatment had to be implemented. On 1 April 1996, I applied Apistan strips (three strips per colony) between frames in the brood chambers. After six weeks of treatment with Apistan, four colonies had perished and mites continued to proliferate in all remaining colonies. Based on my knowledge of success- ful treatment of mites on domestic animals, treatment was switched from Apistan to mineral oil. All the Apistan strips were removed (after waiting two weeks to allow Apistan to wear off) before starting use of mineral oil in an effort to eliminate the possibility of cross effect between the two agents. Treatment with food grade mineral oil was initiated on 1 June 1996 on twenty colonies while five colonies (randomly selected) were used as controls. Rationale: Mineral oil is effective in the treatment of mites on domestic animals. Food grade mineral oil is approved for use in food processing plants in the United States because it is not toxic and because it does not contaminate food products. Hence, mineral oil, if effective against bee mites, could be utilized for the treatment of bee mites during the entire year contrary to other acaricides that have seasonal limitations. The two species of bee mites existing in the United States (Acarapis woodi and Varroa jacobsoni) spend some of their life span on the surface of their host bee. Because of the known house keeping and grooming habits of the honey bee, it was reasoned that bees would "transfer" oil from their legs to the rest of their body and to other parts of the colony if they came in contact with oil. Food grade mineral oil does not contaminate honey or honey bee products and is not toxic to honey bees, provided that the oil is not applied in excessive quantities (see description of different methods of application employed). Twelve consecutive months of work with oil have revealed amazing (positive) results in the treatment and control of bee mites. Method: A. Laboratory work: 1. Mineral oil was applied with the tip of a prove directly to mites seen on bees. Close observation revealed that mites would drop off the bees (time was not measured). 2. Live mites were carefully collected from various colonies, placed in open glass jars and brought home. Some mites were treated with oil directly in the jars, others were carefully removed (to prevent physical harm) and placed on a glass surface coated with a film of mineral oil, or, on waxed paper or seran wrap coated with a film of mineral oil. Some mites were allowed to remain untreated in the glass jars, surviving for several days. Mites exposed to oil were observed to become motionless almost immediately, however, some remained active (lethal doses or lethal times were not evaluated) for some time. B. Field work: Several methods of application of the mineral oil have been tested in a period of time spanning 51 weeks, (1 June 1996 - 24 May 1996). 1. Sheets of waxed paper or freezer paper were coated with a film of mineral oil and placed on the bottom boards of the colonies. Dead mites were collected and counted. Yields varied between ten in a small colony to 112 in a large colony. 2. Strips of waxed paper (10 inches long x 1 1/2 inches wide) were coated with a film of mineral oil and placed between frames in the brood chambers. The number of strips varied between six and ten depending upon the size of the colonies. Coated strips of paper were replaced every two weeks while this form of application lasted. . 3. A continuous bead of mineral oil (up to 2.5 cc) spread on top bars of the frames. Evaluation of treatment: Effect of the mineral oil treatment was measured by counting mites by uncapping brood cells. Yields varied according to degree of infestation, size of the colonies and length of treatment. Initial count yielded as high as 54 infected cells per one hundred cells opened. Mite count varied between one to three per cell. Mite count per hundred brood cells uncapped dropped drastically (54 % in some colonies to four percent in others) as oil treatment continued. It was acknowledged that the procedure was labor intensive early in the process. Other avenues of treatment were sought in order to make the procedure cost effective to commercial operations dedicating special attention to varying quantities of oil applied. The most successful method was determined to be when oil was applied in a continuous bead along the surface of the top bars. At first, the amount of oil was measured and applied with a graduated eye dropper (available to any beekeeper), arriving at 2.5 cc of oil as a safe quantity (before the bees became soaked in oil). At present, oil is applied from a bottle (similar to a honey bear) with a spout with an opening of 1/16" diameter. Oil is applied steadily, along the top bars leaving a continuous line of oil measuring approximately the size of a thin noodle. In the beginning of the operation, it was thought that the oil should be sprayed on the bars or spread by hand. In the course of the applications it was determined that it is not necessary to spread the oil, the bees spread the oil as soon as they walk on it. I have now designed a board (from bakelite) that blocks the bees inside the brood chamber while the oil is applied. The board is fitted with slits that coincide with the top bars allowing application of the oil while perfectly barring the bees inside to prevent stinging and applying the oil directly to the bees. Observations: After 51 weeks utilizing food grade mineral oil in various ways the following observations have been made: 1. Food grade mineral oil can be utilized effectively to control bee mites (acaricide) with quantities ranging from a mere film applied on waxed paper and up to 2.5 cc applied on the top bars of the frames. 2. Mite count per hundred capped cells examined diminished drastically, (54 % to 4 %). 3. Application of mineral oil in the form described above has not affected the queen's laying ability. 4. All five colonies utilized as controls perished. (Test colonies were distributed in three sites at least ten miles apart and each site had control colonies). 5. Of the twenty colonies utilized for treatment with mineral oil: One absconded; two were small and died due to pilferage. Seventeen remaining colonies are thriving and building very large populations. Two colonies have two brood chambers and eight honey suppers each. Two colonies have two brood chambers and six honey suppers each. 6. Control colonies perished quickly due to a combination of factors: Parasitized bees became weak and abandoned their house keeping habits. Stores were quickly robbed. Queens stopped laying and the bees died fighting the robbers, from disease and lack of food. Nosema was observed in two of the heavily parasitized colonies. 7. The use of sheets of waxed paper smeared with oil and placed on the bottom boards was abandoned promptly because these were observed to become covered with debris thus reducing the effectiveness of the oil. Waxed paper or other impervious type paper placed on the bottom boards while treatment is taking place maybe valuable if used for the purpose of collecting and counting dead mites. 8. Capped cell exams revealed mites within drone cells as well as in worker bee cells. 9. Worker bee samples were collected, dissected and examined for tracheal mites. No tracheal mites were found during the test period. 10. Mineral oil was applied continuously every two weeks during the test period including the winter months. The use of mineral oil did not affect egg laying of the queens nor the health of the developing larvae. While it may seem that oil applications should be made more frequently (judging by the presence of mites after 51 weeks of treatment) economics tend to indicate that more frequent applications might be prohibitive. This remains as one of my questions still under study. Conclusion: Contrasted to the characteristics of other oils, lard, Apistan or menthol (used as acaricides), mineral oil seems to offer a preferable medium based on per unit cost, physical characteristics (odorless, flavorless, does not deteriorate, does not contaminate honey or bee products, can be utilized all year long) for utilization as an acaricide. --- NB:1.Send replies to the author or BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU - not this list 2.To unsubscribe, email HoneyBee@systronix.net saying leave BestOfBee --------------2BC71D307C851D700BEA22C3-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 11:28:08 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jxrn Johanesson Subject: Hivenote software new edition! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Multilangual software now in new edition! The Bidata software is meant for practical beekeeping and is traded = by EDBi, which is a foundation of EDB interested beekeepers with a wish = of handling their beekeeping data on a computer. EDBi was founded 1986 = with the purpose of developing a practical hivenote software suitable = for the Danish beekeeping. To serve this purpose I have been programming = a software package for the last 9 years. In the meantime the platform = has changed from pure DOS to windows so I have stopped the developing of = a DOS based software and is concentrating developing to windows 3.1+ and = win95/NT. The concept for the 'Bidata' is put up by input from=20 practical beekeepers and the national Danish Beekeeper Foundation (DBF). = It gives some freedom to the beekeeper but will also limited the data = input into a necessary amount with the purpose of standardisation of = data, making it possible for beekeepers to cooperage in the effort of = making the queens as productive as possible. The function of the programme is based on notes taken in the bee yard = and transferred into the programme. When data have been entered, you = will be able to calculate an Index on the queens, making it easy to = compare the queens within a bee yard. You will also be able to compare = queen sisters, and all together you will get a tool to help you to judge = and select the queens, you want to go on with in your beekeeping. To make it easy to compare data, there is a graphical function build in = where you e.g. Is able to see the honey harvest in pillar representation = and also see it in 3D. This graphical screen can be copied to the = clipboard and transferred in to a document like you see here : Picture omitted. The data you judge from is the following : Honey harvest aggressively swarm tendency steadiness sickness and you enter the data into a spreadsheet like window : Picture Omitted. the cheapest way to get the software is to download it from my homepage = =20 http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/download.htm. There you can get the = software you want. The software you are getting is a Three month demo and can be registered = by paying the register fee to EDBi. The instructions to this you will = find in the program.=20 EDBi =3D Beekeeping software for Windows 3.1/win95 e-mail apimo@post4.tele.dk edbi homepage http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo/edbi.htm Ken Morris Homepage http://www.wn.com.au/gol/members/kenm/index.htm Hivenote software win95 = ftp://ftp.wn.com.au/bidata/win95pg/bidatawin95inst.exe Hivenote software win31 ftp://ftp.wn.com.au/bidata/win31pg/bidat31.exe bolonging databasekit = ftp://ftp.sunet.se/pub/science/agriculture/beenet/databas1.zip best regards Jorn ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 19:46:24 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Extracting oil seed rape Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I've ended up with some crystalised oil seed rape honey in some of >my frames and was wondering about how to extract it. This a recurring problem with rape or as it is more politically correctly described now "canola". In some seasons it cannot be avoided as if conditions dry off there will be a delay in filling combs or if there are numerous cool spells the flow will be on/off and in these cases candying commences in the comb. A warming room is good to prevent candying between removal from hives and extraction and this can be improvised with a fan heater in the honey shed if the room is sealed against draughts. Once the frames are candied I have been unable to extract them. The heat required to liquify the honey would also melt all the comb. I believe wax melting point is 160 degrees C. but heating frames evenly is so difficult I do not believe honey can be liquified in the comb without considerable leakage. Prevention is the only action I can recommend. We bring canola off the hives and extract the next day, come what may. Frames that have candied in the hive we uncap and use for feeding swarms. If the frames are freshly drawn, perhaps chunk honeycomb sold in granulated form? Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Width of opening in super Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Does the opening of the beehive affect it's production? > If hives are worked in ideal conditions where minimal smoke is used, there would be no detectable affect on production. I have seen reports that smoking hives can affect the bees for 3 days and certainly an invasive inspection should be avoided unless you are diagnosing a problem. For a hobbyist I would recommend a period of 2 weeks between opening the hive as you are not likely to detect changes in less time. As a commercial beekeeper we work hives at least once a month with a full inspection of brood box in early spring, again during swarming season, a month after the honey flow ceases and late autumn, plus investigation of any hive which is not up to the standard of others in the same apiary. Say 4 times a year minimum full inspection. The width of entrance is narrowed to give the bees less area they must defend and to assist in warming the hive. I don't bother but I do not have extremes of temperature to deal with and strengthen weak hives by requeening or uniting bees. Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: Extracting oil seed rape Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" A few years ago I had a yard several miles up on the west side of Cayuga Lake, and there were several fields of Canola nearby. It was wonderful to see the supers filling up so fast in May. I knew the honey had a tendency to granulate, but at the time I didn't fully appreciate how much. I removed the supers all nicely capped in June, and sure enough, the combs were like BRICKS. Hardly a drop could be removed. It took a couple of seasons of supering and using the combs under needy hives to get all the canola honey cleaned out. So if you see bright yellow fields of canola blossoms in spring, make sure you keep an eye on the bees -- super them up plenty early, and get the crop off soon, as Donald has described. Our usual quick-granulating honey here in NY is aster, but even when it is crystallized in the comb one can usually get at least a portion of it out by extracting. The canola, on the other hand, sets solid. Cheers, JWG Freeville, NY ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 06:34:49 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Extracting oil seed rape In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.19970718104624.0067e52c@kigateway.kin.on.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > >I've ended up with some crystalised oil seed rape honey in some of > >my frames and was wondering about how to extract it. We have a lot of canola around here ("rapeseed" referes to the old non double zero varieties and can include some pretty dark and unattractive honey that is very heat sensitive). Usually canola honey granulates if the weather is ideal for the flow so that large amounts of nectar are gathered in a short time, then the weather turns cool enough that the supers are not kept warm by the bees. Then -- if the beekeeper does not extract it immediately -- a large problem can arise. I was told by a university-based honey analyst that canola honey is not much different -- when fully ripe -- from clover honey in composition, but that when gathered quickly, canola honey is not converted by the bees to the final form fast enough to avoid susceptibility to sudden granulation. Once ripe and processed, it has similar bottling and liquid shelf life properties to clover honey. > Once the frames are candied I have been unable to extract them. The heat > required to liquify the honey would also melt all the comb. I believe > wax melting point is 160 degrees C. but heating frames evenly is so > difficult I do not believe honey can be liquified in the comb without > considerable leakage. We built a special warming room one year which we held at about 110 - 120 degrees F to try melting the honey. Honey melts at *around* (depending on variety) 105 degrees and pure beeswax (which is actually a blend of several waxes) begins to melt at 142 degrees F -- AFAIK. We had to inject moisture too, since honey tends to be very dry here -- about 16%. Although insulated and equipped with a circulating fan, the room did not have sufficiently even temperature distribution to prevent sagging some combs and leaving some hard. All in all, it was a waste of time. In recent years, the problem has been minor, since we are more efficient in getting our honey off within a week or two after it is gathered. When we do have a problem, we uncap any such granulated combs and place them in the centre of our thirds, either in a group or interlaced with empty combs. A super with 3 or so such frames (uncapped) is placed on each hive immediately above our excluders. The trick is to put the thirds on a bit early. When the honey comes in for extracting later, there is no sign of the granulation. We also send uncapped granulation back out during the season and it seems to disappear. The trick is not to put more than a few such frames in any one super. Such frames can also be placed one at a time in the centre of *strong* hives' brood chambers when spreading brood in hot weather and are emptied almost instantly. But be careful, since this latter technique is not for beginners. Hard granulated canola honey can be deadly for wintering. The bees simply cannot deal with it without a lot of heat. I have seen cells with chunks of 'sugar' in them after the bees have removed what they can and also lots of the white granules of the 'sugar' on the hive entrance when too much granulation is given to a hive. Honey contains two major sugars, one of which -- as I recall -- is unattractive to the bees, and I surmise that in granulating to such a hard form, canola honey separates into the two constituents, one of which is somewhat liquid and attractive and one which is rock hard and of little interest to the bees. Maybe someone can add to this... Allen. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 09:46:13 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Re: Extracting oil seed rape Comments: To: Allen Dick In-Reply-To: <12381321421869@systronix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > Hard granulated canola honey can be deadly for wintering. The bees simply > cannot deal with it without a lot of heat. I have seen cells with chunks > of 'sugar' in them after the bees have removed what they can and also lots > of the white granules of the 'sugar' on the hive entrance when too much > granulation is given to a hive. I presumed all honey used for wintering is granulated except at the very center of the cluster. Why would this be different? Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 08:01:33 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: Extracting oil seed rape In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > > Hard granulated canola honey can be deadly for wintering. The bees simply > > cannot deal with it without a lot of heat. I have seen cells with chunks > > of 'sugar' in them after the bees have removed what they can and also lots > > of the white granules of the 'sugar' on the hive entrance when too much > > granulation is given to a hive. > > I presumed all honey used for wintering is granulated except at the > very center of the cluster. Why would this be different? Ideally, *no* honey used in wintering should be dark or granulated. In practice, things often work out differently. Soft granulation is not *too* difficult for the bees to handle, but honey so hard that people have trouble scraping any off with a hive tool is just often just too difficult for the bees to manage, particularly those colonies which are borderline in strength or vigour. Moreover, wintering clusters are not always 96 degrees F in the centre, particularly when the bees have no brood. To make things tougher too, the honey is not usually in the centre of the cluster anyhow -- it is usually at the edge of the cluster where temperatures are near the ideal granulating point of honey: 57 degrees F, and under such conditions the honey we are discussing will be like a rock. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 10:20:01 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "William Nelson@Aol.Com" Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders I have used baggie feeders in Indiana in the middle of winter as fumidal B feed when a hive has developed nosema. I have also used them as emergency feeders. I use a dental pick to poke small holes in the baggie on one side only. I increased the number if needed. I have found 5-6 holes is usually enough and have not had problems with the bags emptying too fast. I just put them on top on the hive bars or on top of the inner cover. I really prefer the top hive bars. Of course you can change the configuration by changing the size of the baggie. I prefer the freezer type bags because they are thicker. The system worked well for me. Apiarist AKA: Bill Nelson North Liberty, IN. USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 14:28:29 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James D Satterfield Subject: Honey Press and TBH Website MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I continue to revise the TBH website at: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm to try to improve it. I have reduced the sizes of the .gif files so that they load faster. It's a compromise always...the smaller photos show less detail, but if I get requests for particular photos to be larger I can always rescan them and set up links. A major addition that I've made is to set up a link on the home page to a page on building and using a honey press. I have 9 photos on the page, and at 14.4, it takes about 3.5 minutes to load. I am trying to keep all of my .gif files on the website around 20K in size. If you have any interest in pressing honey out of the comb, check out these possibilities. I continue to add names of tbh beekeepers. If you are keeping bees in tbh's and would like your name added to the 'list' link, please send me the appropriate information. Several tbh beekeepers with whom I communicate are recording their experiences as they establish their hives. Perhaps we can look forward to text and photos from them in the future. I hope your honeyflows are going well in the Northern Hemisphere, that your colonies have gone into the winter in good shape if you're in the Southern Hemisphere of our marvelous planet... Cordially yours, Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------- | James D. Satterfield | E-Mail: jsatt@gsu.edu | | 258 Ridge Pine Drive --------------------------------| | Canton, GA 30114, USA Canton is about 40 mi/64 km | | Telephone (770) 479-4784 north of Altanta, Georgia USA | | | | TBH Beekeeping Website: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm | ---------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 14:39:10 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Don't use a baggie feeder unless you want to drown your bees.> > Rob > > > > Robert O'Hara > rohara@stratos.net > 13155 Dorothy Dr. > Chesterland, Ohio 44026 > AA8IB Amateur Radio > Two Hives ; 1st Year Beekeeper I've been using the baggie feeders for 3 years now and haven't drowned any bees since the first season. The key is to refrain from overfilling the bags. The directions say put 3 qts syrup in the baggie. I don't put quite that much in each bag. The bag should lay flat and be approximately 1" thick when filled. If you don't get it flat, it will wrinkle and leak or the bees will crawl inside and drown. I never reuse bags because they are cheap enough at Sam' s to use a new one every time. As with anything new, it just takes a little practice. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 11:56:20 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Kerry Clark of AGF 784-2225 fax (604) 784 2299" Subject: Re: pseudoscorpions vs. mites MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Pseudoscorpions DO occur in North America. If you look really close at them, they might startle you and cause alarm with a claws-up pose (like a threatened crab, but about 3 mm or less than 1/4 inch long). An animatronic (giant model) one was cast as a threat in the movie "Honey I shrunk the kids" (battle with an ant). They can't hurt people as far as I know. I can't imagine how they could have relevance to Varroa control, except perhaps they might be one of the predators that could clean up any varroa that dropped onto the ground through a mesh bottom board. They haven't been reported as being found in bee hives (as have dozens of other species, mostly free-living mites just using the space). The ones I've seen have not been red. There are other red mites (like velvet mites) that might explain the original observation. If they are fast moving, I think they are likely to be predators of other tiny arthropods. Kerry Clark, Apiculture Specialist B.C. Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food 1201 103 Ave Dawson Creek B.C. V1G 4J2 CANADA Tel (250) 784-2231 fax (250) 784-2299 INTERNET kclark@galaxy.gov.bc.ca ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 21:49:27 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: Entrance reducers With regard to the entrance reducer thread. All my hives make a propolis wall about a centimeter in from the entrance with a few holes in it. The bees shut the holes they don't need in winter. If I put a reducer over the entrance, the amount of space for bees to land on is reduced, so bees bump the reducer and are too chilled to get back in occasionally. If they had had that 1cm of space to touch down on they would have been okay. Also, the entrance reducer gives the bees little place for guards, leading to robbing problems on warm days. So my feeling: entrance reducers are a waste of time that interfere with the bees natural ventilation mechanisms. I have only used them on hives that I have started during the winter which cannot gather much propolis because it is all rock hard on the trees due to the temp. Keep well Garth --- Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about Grahamstown catfood." 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 In general, generalisations are bad. But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 13:12:22 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: Extracting oil seed rape In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:46 AM 7/18/97 -0500, you wrote: >> Hard granulated canola honey can be deadly for wintering. >I presumed all honey used for wintering is granulated except at the >very center of the cluster. Why would this be different? I am sure that in areas that have very cold and very dry climate that granulated honey is not the best of bee foods. In California the weather is not that cold and bees fly most days in the winter and have little problem using granulated honey, of course if it is really hard some is wasted and the effort of the bees can cause the wintering bee populations to decline. The same can be said of dry white sugar which can burn a weak hive out trying to use it. DRIVERT sugar can be added to regular table sugar and much effort and ware and tare can be reduced on the bees. The ratio of 50# DRIVERT to 200+# granulated sugar will make the mixture as useful to the bees as DRIVERT by itself at much reduced cost to the beekeeper. The best bee feed is still HFC, but I would bee sure you get it from a reliable supplier with good product insurance. ttul, the OLd Drone ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 22:23:31 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: Mites In response to my post about pseudoscorpions in hives RICHARD BARNES wrote: >If these things feed on smaller mites, could they be a natural >treatment for our mites, t and v? That was something I was wondering about. Mites as far as I have read have not been a major problem here. I heard someone sayy something about tracheal mites in the cape, but no problems here. Now, if the swarms I caught were absconding due to t-mite festations it is perfectly possible theyy ould also have had a larger pop of pseudoscorpions with them feeding on the little critters! Oh well, next yeat if I catch a swarm with the things on I will cut a few up or whatever one does for mites! Keep well Garth --- Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about Grahamstown catfood." 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 In general, generalisations are bad. But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 11:41:54 -0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John van Horn Subject: Re: hive population ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Sorry that this took so long to find. Out of "Beekeeping" by John Eckert and Frank Shaw (1960): They reported a work by Farrar (1931) in comparing colony strength by counting the average number of flights out of the colony each minute. 3 pound package 15 bees flying per minute 5 pound package 48.5 bees flying per minute 3.5 pound overwintered colony 64.5 bees flying per minute 7 pound overwintered colony 128.3 bees flying per minute Hope this answers your question of hive population. John van Horn first year, two hives (1 package, 1 swarm), no honey yet :-{ ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 13:17:57 -0600 Reply-To: glcooke@sisna.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lawrence Cooke Organization: Dolores Door&Trim Subject: Moving Frames MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am using used Brood boxes and frames that have some wax moth damage.My three pound bees have cleaned and worked them into to good shape but they are doing little to the outside ones so I moved them in two frames to get them to work them too. Is this a waist of time or is frame shuffling common practice. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 19:38:54 -0500 Reply-To: lkrengel@mc.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Larry Krengel Subject: slatted bottom racks MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Although I have never used slatted bottom racks, I have seen them. I would be interested in making my own and trying them. I have plans for most hive parts, but I have never come across plans for these. Does anyone know if they are available on a web site? Larry Krengel Marengo, IL USA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 23:20:46 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Digest Cesar Flores Subject: Re: Baggie feeders In a message dated 97-07-18 00:10:25 EDT, you write: << I just put them on top on the hive bars or on top of the inner cover. I really prefer the top hive bars. >> Check that they don't fill the space above the bags with alot of burr comb if they are just resting on the top hive bars. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 22:32:27 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Bill Fernihough Subject: slated bottom racks Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="us-ascii" Not entirely sure what you mean here, but one of my older bee keeper buddies suggested one day that I make entrances that consisted of a three quarters inch board, a three quarter inch (actually a bit less) square riser around the outside except on one of the longer sides, and then cover this with slates of plywood one quarter inch thick, with the slates being about 2 or three inches wide, and spaced so that there was about one quarter inch between them. Not sure if you get the picture but if you want to send me a fax numbers or snail mail address I'll send plan to you. 0000,0000,ffffW. J. Fernihough (Bill, billfern@istar.ca Engineer, Beekeeper, Computer Nerd ffff,0000,0000All things cometh to he who waiteth if he worketh like hell while he waiteth. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 06:22:43 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Rick Grossman Subject: Re: slated bottom racks Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" My fax number is 503-684-3519. Thanks in advance for faxing this info to me. Rick Grossman Newberg, Oregon bmn@worldnet.att.net At 05:32 AM 7/20/97 +0000, you wrote: >Not entirely sure what you mean here, but one of my older bee keeper buddies suggested one day that I make entrances that consisted of a three quarters inch board, a three quarter inch (actually a bit less) square riser around the outside except on one of the longer sides, and then cover this with slates of plywood one quarter inch thick, with the slates being about 2 or three inches wide, and spaced so that there was about one quarter inch between them. Not sure if you get the picture but if you want to send me a fax numbers or snail mail address I'll send plan to you. >W. J. Fernihough (Bill, billfern@istar.ca >Engineer, Beekeeper, Computer Nerd >All things cometh to he who waiteth if he worketh like hell while he waiteth. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 12:08:44 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Plans for Hives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I would be interested in obtaining plans for an Irish Hive called the CDB Hive. It is a very attractive looking hive (and I am not saying this just because I am an Irishman!) and it takes British National Frames. If the WBC (William Broughton Carr) hive takes British National Frames I would also be interested in it. Thanks foe any assistance you can give me Tom Barrett 49 South Park Foxrock Dublin 18 Irish Republic. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 14:41:21 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Keith Redmon Subject: Re: dead bees I hope some one on BEE-l can answer this question. I requeened a hive last week. I introduced the queen and then waited 10 days before I checked to see how she was doing. She seemed to be doing fine but the other bees appeared agitated; more so than usual when working a hive. Also, I noticed the bees were clustering around the entrance to the hive. I closed up the hive and went on about my business. I checked the hive a few hours later and found approximately 200 dead bees in front of the hive. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but it has been extremely hot and dry in my area (Piedmont region of N.C.) Has anyone else ever had this problem or maybe someone can suggest or hint at something I may havedone wrong? Keith Redmon ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 15:24:24 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James D Satterfield Subject: TBH Webpage Update MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII It's 93F outside at the moment and very humid. Good time to stay inside under a fan and do some work on the web page. Someone suggested that more photos on manipulating tbh's be added. I've added a section to the homepage where I will compile links to pages with more photos and information on working the hives. The first addition is on making foundation and setting up top bars. Jim Moore has made a couple of suggestions. One, that I make the small images 'clickable' to larger images. I'm not sure that this would be LYNX friendly, so I've put a link at one image that goes to a larger annotated image. Seems to work ok. If you find other photos that would better serve your needs with similar links, please let me know. Jim also suggested that I put links to the additions on the "What's New" link on the homepage. Wonderful suggestion! I've started doing this, so if you want to see what has been added, you no longer have to hunt for it. Just got to the "What's New" section and click on the links. If any of you who are keeping tbh's have photos of your working with the hives, I'd be happy to scan them, put them on the page along with your explanations, and return the photos to you. Drop me a note if you have photos to add. Looks as if my revision of the area on the honey press has inspired some of the site visitors to start making presses. That's wonderful. If tbh beekeeping is an area of interest to you, check out the site at http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm Cordially yours, Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------- | James D. Satterfield | E-Mail: jsatt@gsu.edu | | 258 Ridge Pine Drive --------------------------------| | Canton, GA 30114, USA Canton is about 40 mi/64 km | | Telephone (770) 479-4784 north of Altanta, Georgia USA | | | | TBH Beekeeping Website: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm | ---------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 17:00:05 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: dead bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 02:41 PM 7/20/97 -0400, you wrote: >I hope some one on BEE-l can answer this question. I requeened a hive last >week. I introduced the queen and then waited 10 days before I checked to see >how she was doing. She seemed to be doing fine but the other bees appeared >agitated; more so than usual when working a hive. Also, I noticed the bees >were clustering around the entrance to the hive. I closed up the hive and >went on about my business. I checked the hive a few hours later and found >approximately 200 dead bees in front of the hive. I don't know if this has >anything to do with it but it has been extremely hot and dry in my area >(Piedmont region of N.C.) Has anyone else ever had this problem or maybe >someone can suggest or hint at something I may havedone wrong? > >Keith Redmon > Did you provide a close source of water? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 18:29:26 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: dead bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Keith Redmon wrote: > Dear Keith: Usually, bees can tolerate changes in temperature pretty well, especially heat. They simply get out and/or do other things to cool off their colony (fanning, carrying extra water, etc.). It has been hot here in Virginia also, but I have not seen my bees dieying.Sounds to me like your bees got into some kind toxic substance, food, etc. Is this a generalized situation in all of your colonies, or just colony? This was not clear to me. It does not sound like disease either. Signs of disease are more evident than what you are describing, especially when there is excitement to go with it. I am curious. Could you tell me more. Other signs or symptoms that you might have seen. Do not omit anything. What might look silly to you might be important to me, if you catch my drift. Talk to you later (I hope). Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 18:30:51 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Re: Baggie feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: Digest Cesar Flores > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Baggie feeders > Date: Saturday, July 19, 1997 11:20 PM > > In a message dated 97-07-18 00:10:25 EDT, you write: > > << I just put them on top on the hive bars or on top of the inner cover. I > really prefer the top hive bars. >> > > Check that they don't fill the space above the bags with alot of burr comb if > they are just resting on the top hive bars. This has never been a problem although I have always given them plenty of storage space below. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 10:58:46 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: TBH Webpage Update On Sun, 20 Jul 1997 15:24:24 -0400 James D Satterfield writes: >Jim also suggested that I put links to the additions on the "What's >New" link on the homepage. Wonderful suggestion! I've started doing this, >so if you want to see what has been added, you no longer have to hunt for >it. Just go to the "What's New" section and click on the links. >Looks as if my revision of the area on the honey press has inspired >some of the site visitors to start making presses. Jim: That "What's New" feature works out real nicely. You did a real nice job on your "Honey Press" Page with the step by step illustrations. I would highly reccomend your 'Rube Goldberg' Honey Press to any hobbyist who does not want to (or can't) spend the $$ for an Extractor, to check it out. Great idea! Al, ---- awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Honey Bees & Beekeeping - / - Doktor Finkle Play " Interlotto " and win at: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 20:18:39 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.Com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: slatted bottom racks MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Larry Krengel wrote: > > Although I have never used slatted bottom racks, I have seen them. I > would be interested in making my own and trying them. I have plans for > most hive parts, but I have never come across plans for these. Does > anyone know if they are available on a web site? > > Larry Krengel > Marengo, IL USA If someone gives me dimensions for it, I'll draw it up and make it available on my site. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 20:25:57 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lawrence Cooke Organization: Dolores Door&Trim Subject: Lost Queen Comments: To: Bee's Bee MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thursday evening I found one of my Queens outside the hive. She was missing a wing and walking funny. I put her in a jar for study later..I looked in the hive and found an freshly opened Queen cell. So I closed it up..Today I took out frames to look of eggs and found no eggs AND no brood from old Queen.This is one of my 3 pound that I started two months ago.It had brood!! What to do? I am concerned that I might have a laying worker soon. Lawrence Cooke: Dolores Colorado.. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 23:22:42 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Keith Redmon Subject: Re: dead bees Yes I do have a water supply just a few yards away from the hive. Keith Redmon ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 20:05:08 -0800 Reply-To: beeman@Alaska.NET Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom & Carol Elliott Organization: Home Subject: Re: Lost Queen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lawrence Cooke wrote: > ..I looked in the hive and found an freshly opened Queen cell. So I closed it up..Today I took out frames to look of eggs and found no eggs AND no brood from old Queen. This is one of my 3 pound that I started two months ago. Lawrence, If you have a newly hatched queen cell, it will be at least 2 weeks, and usually more like 4 weeks, before the new queen begins to lay. It would be nice to know if you do have a virgin queen, if so no danger of laying workers. Depending on your nectar flow, a break in the brood cycle could be a good thing. Here in coastal Southcentral Alaska, I cage my queens about the middle of July. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Chugiak, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 21:50:33 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: Lost Queen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable 2 to 4 weeks is a bit long for a new queen not to be laying.. According to ABC&XYZ (and in keeping with my experience) queens mate = between the 4th and 10th day, and lay eggs within 3 to 4 days after = mating is completed. The average age out of the cell when a queen = starts laying is 9 days. If the weather is good she will mate closer = to the 4th day, If the weather is bad, she may have to wait. The easiest way to know if you have a queen is to borrow a frame = containing fresh eggs (but no bees) from another hive and put it into = the brood nest. If the bees start making queen cells, they are = queenless. Adding a frame of eggs and fresh brood is a good idea = whether they are queenless or not. If they are, it will prevent them = from becoming "hopeless" while you line up a replacement queen. If they = aren't queenless, the frame of brood will give them a few reinforcements = while the new queen gets going. (If you have no nectar flow, then you = might want to weigh this against Tom's comment about a break in the = brood cycle. I don't have this problem until about November, so I have = no comment.) I strongly suggest that you introduce a good strong queen immediately if = they start queen cells in the new brood frame. If you let them start a = new queen now they will lose too much valuable time and brood production = and end up very weak by the time the new queen gets started laying. = Just leave the queen cells in to keep them distracted (hopeful) until = your new queen is ready to introduce, then remove the queen cells so = they will be more inclined to accept your new queen. Hope this helps! Michael ---------- From: Tom & Carol Elliott[SMTP:beeman@Alaska.NET] Sent: Sunday, July 20, 1997 9:05 PM To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: Re: Lost Queen Lawrence Cooke wrote: > ..I looked in the hive and found an freshly opened Queen cell. So I = closed it up..Today I took out frames to look of eggs and found no eggs = AND no brood from old Queen. This is one of my 3 pound that I started = two months ago. Lawrence, If you have a newly hatched queen cell, it will be at least 2 weeks, and usually more like 4 weeks, before the new queen begins to lay. It would be nice to know if you do have a virgin queen, if so no danger of laying workers. Depending on your nectar flow, a break in the brood cycle could be a good thing. Here in coastal Southcentral Alaska, I cage my queens about the middle of July. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Chugiak, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 08:43:37 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Rick Grossman Subject: Handling a two week old hive Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Just wanted to give a status update on my older swarm that had started comb. Thanks to all that responded. I ended up using the rubberband method and got 5 reasonable frames of brood comb. Checking them today, the queen continues to lay in these combs, the bees have semi-smoothed them into working combs, and they are bringing in plenty of pollen. When I first rubber-banded them, I started feeding a 1:1 sugar syrup, since I noticed that they had no stores. There is now a samll amount of liquid stores in the brood boxes. I believe the queen might be a new virgin queen that mated after the swarm settled into their temporary quarters (before I got to them) for the following reason. One of the combs was completely drone comb. I did not put this into the new hive. I assumed that the queen first laid drones into the drone comb, mated, and then started the rest of the hive. Of course, that would put the swarm at much older than two weeks (if she mated with her own "sons" instead of with drones that came with the swarm). Does this make sense? Rick Grossman Newberg, Oregon bmn@worldnet.att.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:26:56 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: pseudoscorpions vs. mites In-Reply-To: > Subject: Re: pseudoscorpions vs. mites Kerry Clark wrote: > Pseudoscorpions DO occur in North America. If you look really close > at them, they might startle you and cause alarm with a claws-up pose > (like a threatened crab, but about 3 mm or less than 1/4 inch long). An > I can't imagine how they could have relevance to Varroa control, > except perhaps they might be one of the predators that could clean up any I posted the original post. The pseudoscorpions I referred to are if my memory serves me correctly two distinct species. Both have one overdeveloped pincer arm which they use to latch onto bees as a form of parasitic transport. They then drop of and eat something, which is at present not known. Saying that there are pseudoscorpions in america and that they do not possibly represent a way of treating varroa is a bit like saying that flies are bad bees. There are probably thousands of pseudoscorpion species which will naturally live in a huge range of environments. In our case we have two which live in bee hives and eat something that is not known. Due to speciation and so on, they are not the same as the north american pseudoscorpions you will find under rocks and so on. These live in african bee hives. No they are not velvet mites. In a few weeks I will have a scanned photograph of these little guys on my african bee web page(under construction). Keep well Garth --- Garth Cambray "Opinions expressed in this post may be those 15 Park Road of Pritz, my cat, who knows a lot about Grahamstown catfood." 6140 *garth@rucus.ru.ac.za* South Africa Phone 27-0461-311663 In general, generalisations are bad. But don't worry BEEEEEE happy. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 05:35:04 -0600 Reply-To: Charles Harper Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Charles Harper Subject: Re: Handling a two week old hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Mon, 21 Jul 1997 08:43:37 +0000, Rick Grossman wrote: I assumed that the queen first laid drones into >the drone comb, mated, and then started the rest of the hive. Of course, >that would put the swarm at much older than two weeks (if she mated with her >own "sons" instead of with drones that came with the swarm). Does this make >sense? > >Rick Grossman >Newberg, Oregon >bmn@worldnet.att.net > When a queen starts laying she will not mate anymore if she has not mated she will be a drone layer forever. Charles Harper Harper's Honey farm 1000 + Colonies ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 08:37:43 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Subject: Re: slatted bottom racks Comments: To: Barry Birkey In-Reply-To: <33D2729F.1DDE@Birkey.Com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Eugene E. Killion in "Honey in the Comb", describes a false bottom or slatted rack as follows: "The false bottom is made with two railings that are 18"(457mm) long, 15/16"(24mm) in width, and 9/16"(14mm)thick. The slats nailed across the top are 13-7/8"(352mm)long,3/4"(19mm)wide, and 5/16"(8mm) thick, one crosspiece 4"(102mm)in width is nailed in front with the slats spaced 5/16"(8mm) apart. The wide board placed in front discourages the bees' tendency to chew out the front bottom corners of the frames that are so close to the opening. To create a bee space all around, four small staples are driven into the bottom of the two railings, extending out 5/16"(8mm), two more are driven into the back end of the false bottom and a nail or staple is placed on each side of the 4"(102mm) front crosspiece and back crosspiece. The bees will not propolize the false bottom when these nails or staples are used, but they would if the railings or slats were touching the bottom board. The top of the false bottom must be 5/16"(8mm) shallower than the top edge of the bottom board." Killion describes the bottom board required for the false bottom as follows: "The bottom board we use was also copied from Dr. C.C. Miller's, which he described as' a plain box, two inches deep, open at one end.'" Killion's book also has good diagrams of all this equipment. Honey in the Comb Eugene E. Killion 1981 Dadant & Sons, Inc ISBN Number 0-915698-08-0 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 09:01:20 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: dead bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 11:22 PM 7/20/97 -0400, you wrote: >Yes I do have a water supply just a few yards away from the hive. > >Keith Redmon > Keith, They might have come into contact with some kind of insecticide. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:31:36 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mike Rowbottom Subject: Hot air decapping MIME-Version: 1.0 Dear All I have recently tried de-capping comb using an electrically powered, hand held, hot air blower originally designed for paint stripping. The device has two heat settings and is rated at 1600 W. According to the manufacturer's literature it delivers air at 300-560 Deg.C ( 570 - 1040 Deg. F ). I use the lower heat setting so the temperature used is probably around the lower end of the temperature range quoted. The air jet is directed almost perpedicularly onto the face of the comb. The blower nozzle is rotated in small circles while the blower is traversed across the face in a zig-zag motion. The nozzle is about 75- 100mm ( 3-4 inches) away from the comb face. One pass across the face is all that is normally required. The decapping results are excellent; the wax melts on the tops of the cells and is then pulled by the surface tension of the liquid wax onto the tops of the cell walls, leaving the honey free for extraction. It takes about 20 seconds per side, and apart from a very small amount of wax blown off as tiny droplets, the wax wastage is zero. There are no cappings with the associated honey to deal with. The technique is equally quick on unevenly drawn comb, which I have found time-consuming to deal with using a de-capping knife. At the end of the de-capping the face of the combs is warm to the touch, perhaps about 30 Deg. C ( 86 Deg. F). The technique is so quick and easy that I am a convert, BUT, would anyone know if the heat treatment that the honey receives in the process would have an adverse effect on the quality of the honey? Short term tests show that, subjectively, the flavour is un-impaired and that granulation properties seem much the same. Regards, Mike Rowbottom Harrogate North Yorkshire UK ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 08:26:30 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: Hot air decapping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BC95AF.D2961D80" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC95AF.D2961D80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Wow! I have one of these hot air guns and never thought to try it. = Sounds great! I have several thoughts on the implications of this = method: 1. I doubt that it would heat the honey any more than an electric = uncapping knife does. The honey in the cappings can get pretty warm. 2. I gather that almost all the wax stays on the comb and there is = little or no wax from cappings to render. That would mean all the honey = stays in the comb too, and thus no need to separate honey from the = capping wax. The only down side to this method might be that you don't = get any of that pale yellow capping wax as a byproduct of extracting. A = small price to pay, I suppose. 3. With this method it may make more sense to go back to 10 frames in = the supers since the main purpose of spacing 9 frames out in a 10 frame = box is to extend the comb out far enough to get the uncapping knife into = it. I really like this idea. I'll give it a try on my August honey pull. Michael ---------- From: Mike Rowbottom[SMTP:mike@cognant.demon.co.uk] Sent: Monday, July 21, 1997 4:31 AM To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: Hot air decapping Dear All I have recently tried de-capping comb using an electrically powered, hand held, hot air blower originally designed for paint stripping. The device has two heat settings and is rated at 1600 W. According to the manufacturer's literature it delivers air at 300-560 Deg.C ( 570 - 1040 Deg. F ). I use the lower heat setting so the temperature used is probably around the lower end of the temperature range quoted. The air jet is directed almost perpedicularly onto the face of the comb. The blower nozzle is rotated in small circles while the blower is traversed across the face in a zig-zag motion. The nozzle is about 75- 100mm ( 3-4 inches) away from the comb face. One pass across the face is all that is normally required. The decapping results are excellent; the wax melts on the tops of the cells and is then pulled by the surface tension of the liquid wax onto the tops of the cell walls, leaving the honey free for extraction. It takes about 20 seconds per side, and apart from a very small amount of wax blown off as tiny droplets, the wax wastage is zero. There are no cappings with the associated honey to deal with. The technique is equally quick on unevenly drawn comb, which I have found time-consuming to deal with using a de-capping knife. At the end of the de-capping the face of the combs is warm to the touch, perhaps about 30 Deg. C ( 86 Deg. F). The technique is so quick and easy that I am a convert, BUT, would anyone know if the heat treatment that the honey receives in the process would have an adverse effect on the quality of the honey? Short term tests show that, subjectively, the flavour is un-impaired and that granulation properties seem much the same. 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Vince Coppola > posted he's unable to notice a difference between solid and screened > bottom boards. I should have been more specific, no differance with regard to honey production/ripening. I think thats what the original question was about. > This ventillation issue is funny to me. Most books warn against drafts > (mainly a winter concern), yet it seems that more and more things are > leaning towards increased and improved ventillation. Seems there is > a dichotomy here. Perhaps the "best" hives are the old drafty ones!? I don't think drafts are good. We put a plastic board under the screens in August and leave it there till they are to be moved to pollination, which is the reason for the screens in the first place. Besides winter drafts, light comes in and discourages the use of the lowest cells, especially for brood. The same thing happens when you have large entrances on standard bottoms and is another reason to leave your reducers in or at least replace them well before fall. Ventilation is good but like many other things that are good, more is not always better. I think research on what ventilation really does and how much is really necessary could have a big impact on keeping bees in the north. We have had drafty old hives that wintered well, but we also have tight insulated hives, with upper ventilation, that winter as well. I have'nt made measurements but my informal observation is that the insulated, controlled ventilation hives winter more consistantly and consume less honey. The main reason for ventilation is moisture elimination. The amount of moisture is related to the amount of honey consumed and that is related to how much energy is needed to maintain cluster temperature. When we know the proper balance we will probably be wintering is single story hives. Right Barry? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 09:03:12 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Sevigny, Marc" Subject: Supering Question MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a couple of questions about supering for honey extraction. This is my first season, having installed bees in April. I only purchased and assembled 2 (medium) honey supers over 2 deep bodies. At this point, the bees have capped every frame in one of the supers. The second super seems to be about 1/3 capped but every frame is fully drawn and has lots of nectar in it. I live in Central Massachusetts Questions: 1. Do the bees need an extra super? If so, how soon? I'm not sure when the peek honey flow is here, and didn't know if the honey production will drop off quickly soon or if it will continue for a while longer. Do the bees need more room? The hive population seems to be very high, each frame covered. 2. Can capped frames be removed and replaced with new foundation? If so, can the capped frames be stored so that extraction can be done at a later time? 3. How much honey should be left in the hive for the bees to overwinter? Thanks for the advice. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 13:27:24 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Faith Andrews Bedford Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders In a message dated 97-07-16 09:41:27 EDT, you write: << I also us the baggies but with only one slit about 2 inches long. But I can reuse the baggie by just refilling it without any trouble. Ken Lawrence >> How does one refille a baggie with a slit in it ? Faith Andrews Bedford, Ivy, VA and Tampa ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 13:41:57 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: A lesson learned MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Hello all, This past weekend I learned a few lessons that I thought I would share wi= th the list. The first was that I should have replaced my bee suit and glov= es long ago. Why? My beesuit has been washed with bleach to keep its brigh= t white and virgin appearance. This, over time, has worn the fabric down t= o where it is not of much value when it comes to preventing stings. The second was that my gloves needed attention. The gauntlets next to the elastic had given way to a few holes. I had not had any problems with th= e suit or gloves all season long. The problem became very obvious as I was= robbing my bees of honey supers over the weekend. I have one hive that I requeened this past spring because it was so violent. A subsequet check showed that the queen was laying away and everything was fine. Apparently, the hive superceded the newly introduce= d queen with an egg from the previous queen because they got their aggressi= ve nature back during the summer. I robbed all of my other hives with no problems except for excessive heat= =2E = My son and I were dealing with temperatures in the high 90s and perspirin= g heavily. When we got to this last hive we put our fume pad on top with bee-go and waited for the bees to move out of the super. I removed three= supers this way with no incident other than the bees were buzzing us to show their disapproval. When I pulled off the fourth super the bees exploded out of the top of the hive and covered me. They found every weakness in my protection. They crawled in my gloves. Somehow, I don't know how, they got under my veil. They came up my legs. They stung through my sweat soaked bee suit and t-shirt. I sustained 40+ stings - w= e couldn't count them all. My son was well protected and sustained no stings. We ran away and were pursued for over 300 yards by the bees. On= ce away from them we pulled on my suit which removes all of the stingers through the suit wherever I was stung through the suit. We packed up and= left another three supers on that hive for another day. While driving home I experienced a little light headedness. My son notic= ed several stingers in my neck and removed them as I drove. We also found several on my arms and removed them. By the time we removed them they ha= d already pumped their full load of venom into me. Soon my scalp, armipits= and inner thighs starting itching like crazy. By the time we made it hom= e, the skin under my armpits and inner thighs looked like I had a severe cas= e of poison ivy. My wife thought it was a chigger infestation. A phone call to a friend in the medical profession gave us the answer. H= e said that the lymph glands that process poison in the body are located under the arm pits and in the groin area. When they are overloaded, pois= on is sent to the skin. He advised me to take benadryl and drink water continuously. Following his advice proved out. Within three hours the rash was gone and the stings were down to nothing. Even today, there is very little itching. Normally, when I get a sting it itches like crazy a= few days later. So for everyone out there with a well worn bee suit. REPLACE IT! Also make sure your gloves are in good shape. You never know when something like this can happen to you. Also, it might make sense to keep benadryl = in your beekeeping equipment to aid in those times when you get several stings. When washing your bee suit, just use detergent with no bleach. = Use the gentle cycle on your washing machine and hang it out to dry. Thi= s will help prolong the life of your suit. The functionality is much more important than a pristine white appearance. Requeen violent hives and us= e extra caution when working them. And now for my question, how many bee stings is lethal? I know that one bee sting can kill someone who is allergic. I'm not allergic, I suffer b= ee stings all the time. How many bee stings can a person sustain until it i= s life threatening? Can anyone back up the medical advice I was given? Ca= n drinking plenty of water really lessen the after-effects of bee stings? The good news is that we are going to get over 50 gallons(600 ilbs.) of honey this year. We're still extracting so the final tally is not done. = I need a new storage tank for next year. The new suit and gloves are on order. Ted Wout Red Oak, TX, USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:13:48 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Day Subject: Re: A lesson learned ted certainly got a beating, didn't he? Gloves: i went to the hardware store one day and found a pair of Acid Gloves, the type used for handling gasoline and other noxious liquids. They are made of rather thick plastic, totally impervious to bee stings. i like them, but for one thing: you need to rubber band the tops shut or else the buggers get in and get you. otherwise, i can feel well at the fingertips. the sweat does build up inside tho. but i'll take that over stings anytime. suits: duct tape over the tops of zippers, pocket holes and so on will help a lot, especially if handling a lot of hives or a really nasty one, and i've had my share of them. here's a REALLY good tip for you all. i use a "painter's sock" under my veil. it's a cotton sock you pull on over your head with a hole in it for your nose and eyes. originally to keep paint off your head, it's great for keeping stings from getting thru the sides of the veil or when the occasional bee gets into the veil. very cheap, and added a great deal of comfort to my beekeeping. i used to suffer a lot of stings thru the veil, especially when sweating a lot, now i usually don't get any in the head anymore. have fun! (\ John {|||8- in (/ Soquel, Ca ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:10:20 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Kriston M. Bruland" Subject: Ants and snakes in hives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Everyone, I visited all of my hives this past weekend and found uninvited guests in two of them. One hive had black carpenter ants underneath the outer cover, on top of the inner cover. They had chewed big holes in the inner cover and were working down into the super under it. I cleaned all of them out, removing the eggs and all the ants. The next day they were right back in, eggs and all. Another hive had two snakes sunning on the front porch, probably eating bees too. They went right into the hive when I approached. I managed to drive them out with the smoker and they went off into the woods. The next day, there was a different (larger) snake which also went into the hive when it saw me. The bees completely ignored the snakes when they went in. Fortunately we don't have poisonous snakes in this area. Does anyone have any good ideas for getting rid of either? I have never had either of these in hives before. We had some good sunny weather on the weekend and I extracted about 400 pounds of blackberry honey! Thanks, Kris Bruland Member of Mt. Baker Beekeepers Association Bellingham, WA U.S.A. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 13:24:02 -0500 Reply-To: beeman52@worldnet.att.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ken Lawrence Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Faith Andrews Bedford wrote: > > In a message dated 97-07-16 09:41:27 EDT, you write: > > << I also us the baggies but with only one slit about 2 inches long. But I > can reuse the baggie by just refilling it without any trouble. Ken > Lawrence > >> > How does one refille a baggie with a slit in it ? > > Faith Andrews Bedford, Ivy, VA and Tampa Stick two fingers in the slit and pour in new syrup. Really simple. Ken ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:39:07 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Day Subject: Ants i just read that ants HATE lemons. has anyone tried squeezing lemon juice on or about the hive entrance? (\ John {|||8- in (/ Soquel, Ca ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 11:25:25 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: Hot air decapping Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 12:31 PM 7/21/97 +0100, you wrote: >Dear All > >I have recently tried de-capping comb using an electrically powered, >hand held, hot air blower originally designed for paint stripping. The >device has two heat settings and is rated at 1600 W. According to the >manufacturer's literature it delivers air at 300-560 Deg.C ( 570 - 1040 >Deg. F ). I use the lower heat setting so the temperature used is >probably around the lower end of the temperature range quoted. > >The air jet is directed almost perpedicularly onto the face of the comb. >The blower nozzle is rotated in small circles while the blower is >traversed across the face in a zig-zag motion. The nozzle is about 75- >100mm ( 3-4 inches) away from the comb face. One pass across the face >is all that is normally required. > >The decapping results are excellent; the wax melts on the tops of the >cells and is then pulled by the surface tension of the liquid wax onto >the tops of the cell walls, leaving the honey free for extraction. It >takes about 20 seconds per side, and apart from a very small amount of >wax blown off as tiny droplets, the wax wastage is zero. There are no >cappings with the associated honey to deal with. The technique is >equally quick on unevenly drawn comb, which I have found time-consuming >to deal with using a de-capping knife. > > >Mike Rowbottom >Harrogate >North Yorkshire >UK > Mike I do the same thing with a portable propane toech. It is very fast and I have not noticed any adverse effects on the honey but one added benifit is it kills any exposed mites etc. I to have tried numerous decapping knives etc. and none of them are as fast as this method for me and ease of operation. This may very well be the best decapping tool I have used in a long time. Paul Basehore Oklahoma ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 18:46:38 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom Speight Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 19 Jul 1997 to 20 Jul 1997 In-Reply-To: <869457946.126771.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In message <869457946.126771.0@uacsc2.albany.edu>, Automatic digest processor writes >If someone gives me dimensions for it, I'll draw it up and make it available on >my site. > >-Barry No plans are required. It just looks like a pallet. The description by CC Miller gives good enough directions. I don't know what size of hive he was using at the time. Qoute from 'Fifty Years Among the Bees': As material for a rack there are two pieces 18 x 1 x 3/4 inches and 21 pieces 10.1/2 x 3/8 x 3/4 inches The little pieces are nailed upon the 3/4 inch sides of the two larger pieces, ladder-fashion with 1/2-inch space between each two strips. The strips are allowed to project over at each side abont an inch. I value this bottom-rack highly. It prevents building down and at the same time gives the bees nearly the full benefit of the deep space, preventing overheating in hot weather, thus serving as no small factor in the prevention of swwarming, it also saves the labor of lifting the hive off the bottom board to reverse the bottom-board and then lifting the the hive back again,spring and fall. Instead of being made up in the way described, a board 10.1/2 inches long may he split up irregularly and used for the cross-pieces. End of quote hth -- Tom S -- Tom Speight ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 15:58:39 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Bee Works Subject: Re: Lost Queen In-Reply-To: <33D2C8B5.C7F9AB93@sisna.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 20 Jul 97 at 20:25, Lawrence Cooke wrote: > Thursday evening I found one of my Queens outside the hive. She was > missing a wing and walking funny. I put her in a jar for study > later..I looked in the hive and found an freshly opened Queen cell. > So I closed it up..Today I took out frames to look of eggs and > found no eggs AND no brood from old Queen.This is one of my 3 pound > that I started two months ago.It had brood!! What to do? I am > concerned that I might have a laying worker soon. Lawrence Cooke: > Dolores Colorado.. > Sounds like the results of a 'Battle Royal'. Possibly the work of the newly emerged virgin or even the bees themselves, as they will not tolerate a poor queen. Without a lot more information as to the state of the hive before this was discovered it is difficult diagnosing from a distance. One way to discover what is happening is to use the added brood technique. A frame of eggs from another hive will soon give you an answer. If the make cells they are queenless, if they cap over as usual, then you have a virgin waiting to lay. ******************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Dr, Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1 Phone/fax 705-326-7171 David Eyre, Owner. http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ******************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 15:58:41 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Bee Works Subject: Re: Ventillation In-Reply-To: <33D3AAAB.1C11@epix.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 21 Jul 97 at 11:30, Vince Coppola wrote: > winter as well. I have'nt made measurements but my informal > observation is that the insulated, controlled ventilation hives > winter more consistantly and consume less honey. The main reason for > ventilation is moisture elimination. The amount of moisture is > related to the amount of honey consumed and that is related to how > much energy is needed to maintain cluster temperature. When we know > the proper balance we will probably be wintering is single story > hives. Right Barry? There is one keeper out West of us who winters all his hives in single story hives. I certainly won't risk it, no safety factor. As to ventilation, we have spent many years testing various ventilation and wintering ideas and since we marketed our Mod Kit have had numerous reports of 80-100% more hive products. As I am prone to repeat....Ventilation works. Strange how we keep reinventing the wheel. In the 1850's both lower and upper ventilation were discussed in great detail, and it was decided then to be beneficial. ******************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Dr, Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1 Phone/fax 705-326-7171 David Eyre, Owner. http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ******************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 16:27:35 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Walt Barricklow Subject: air bubbles MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit need some help on how to filter out air bubbles in my honey jars. I have a small extractor and let the honey flow into a large jar, then heat some to get the honey to flow through a cheese cloth into pint jars that have been boiled clean and dried. My honey is very thick and flavorful, but at the top of the pint jars are small air bubbles. WALT , pondsite@barnwellsc.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 17:08:24 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Rory Stenerson <71762.1664@compuserve.com> Subject: Drone Comb Foundation U.S. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Greetings Everyone, I'm a beginning beekeeper and I had my first hive inspection today from o= ur state bee inspector. Everything looked good, except for an occasional Ba= ld Face Brood from an enterprising Wax Moth worm. An ether roll showed abou= t 10-15 varroa mites which I'm told is relatively low, but is a warning. I= would like to check the summer build up of Varroa without taking my first= honey supers off, (they're about 3/4 built out.) I was thinking about trying Jan Templeman's Drone Comb Method and reporti= ng the results back to my club. However, I cannot find a supplier who sells= drone comb foundation anymore. I tried Dadant, Kelley, A.I.Root, and Man= n Lake and struck out. Anybody have any suggestions for finding drone foundation in the U.S? Thank you in advance, Rory Stenerson, Member - Centre County Beekeepers Association State College, PA U.S.A. 71762.1664@compuserve.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 14:13:55 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: A lesson learned In-Reply-To: <199707211342_MC2-1B44-438E@compuserve.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 01:41 PM 7/21/97 -0400, you wrote: Hi Ted, Always go buy what your doctor says, its your life.. But all you have described is a normal reaction to someone who has not been stung enough to build up an immunity. You can get the same symptoms with one sting until you have had time to build up that immune system. One cheep thing you can do is take a anti histamine tablet such as you can buy off the shelf for hay fever or runny noise and this will sometime help. There seems to be two things working with new beekeepers, one is the "pain" tolerance, and you know you are there when you get home and find stinger in your ears. The 2nd is building on that immune system and this may take some time. It took me several years working bees commercially before I no longer had the itchy palms and soles, and even then I always seemed to get stung in the face on Saturday afternoons as that was when my work was done and I could drive the 100 miles to my home. I would get about half way and have to stop and sleep as my eyes would be swollen up so bad that I would get sleepy driving. About 15 mins to an hour and I would be ready to drive again. I have had two experiences with people in my family who had to have treatments to become immune to bee stings. One if not found with luck by her brother pased out on the floor with the telephone in her hand needed it real bad. The treatments were not costly, here anyway, took several months, and still require a bee sting every once in awhile to maintain the immunity. ttul, Andy- >While driving home I experienced a little light headedness. My son noticed >several stingers in my neck and removed them as I drove. We also found >several on my arms and removed them. By the time we removed them they had >already pumped their full load of venom into me. Soon my scalp, armipits >and inner thighs starting itching like crazy. By the time we made it home, >the skin under my armpits and inner thighs looked like I had a severe case >of poison ivy. >Ted Wout >Red Oak, TX, USA > > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 17:12:31 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Ants MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John Day wrote: Dear Friends: I just moved some of my bees to a new site which I cleared in the middle of patch of woods covered with brambles. Needless to say, the ants moved in readily to the inner cover of every hive hat I relocated there. Just as a curiosity, I started literally squirting mineral oil on the antes and eggs before I dumped them off. Guess what? Within two months I no longer see ants nesting under my hive tops. Added bonus? I would say so! Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 19:01:40 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Frank & Phronsie Humphrey Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders Comments: To: beeman52@worldnet.att.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: Ken Lawrence > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders > Date: Monday, July 21, 1997 2:24 PM > > Faith Andrews Bedford wrote: > > > > In a message dated 97-07-16 09:41:27 EDT, you write: > > > > << I also us the baggies but with only one slit about 2 inches long. But I > > can reuse the baggie by just refilling it without any trouble. Ken > > Lawrence > > >> > > How does one refille a baggie with a slit in it ? > > > > Faith Andrews Bedford, Ivy, VA and Tampa > > Stick two fingers in the slit and pour in new syrup. Really simple. > Ken I really think you are asking for trouble reusing baggies. It contains a sugar residue which can be a growing medium for all sorts of organisms. Frank Humphrey beekeepr@cdc.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 01:38:44 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: air bubbles On Mon, 21 Jul 1997 16:27:35 -0400 Walt Barricklow writes: >need some help on how to filter out air bubbles in my honey jars. Walt: I have heard or read somewhere that if you pour the honey in at the inner top edge of the container, so that it runs down the inner side that this will help eliminate bubbles. In my case it does cut down on the bubbles substantially. Al, ___ awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Honey Bees & Beekeeping - / - Doktor Finkle Play " Interlotto " and win at: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 16:12:41 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 01:27 PM 7/21/97 -0400, you wrote: >In a message dated 97-07-16 09:41:27 EDT, you write: > ><< I also us the baggies but with only one slit about 2 inches long. But I > can reuse the baggie by just refilling it without any trouble. Ken > Lawrence > >> > How does one refille a baggie with a slit in it ? You fill the baggie first. > >Faith Andrews Bedford, Ivy, VA and Tampa > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 16:07:35 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: Supering Question Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:03 AM 7/21/97 -0400, you wrote: >I have a couple of questions about supering for honey extraction. This >is >my first season, having installed bees in April. > >I only purchased and assembled 2 (medium) honey supers over 2 deep >bodies. At this point, the bees have capped every frame in one of the >supers. The second super seems to be about 1/3 capped but every >frame is fully drawn and has lots of nectar in it. > >I live in Central Massachusetts > >Questions: > >1. Do the bees need an extra super? If so, how soon? Yes I would put another on immeaditly. I'm not sure >when the peek >honey flow is here, and didn't know if the honey production will drop >off quickly soon >or if it will continue for a while longer. Do the bees need more room? >The hive population >seems to be very high, each frame covered. They could probably use another brood chamber to keep swarming from happening. > >2. Can capped frames be removed and replaced with new foundation? Yes If >so, can the >capped frames be stored so that extraction can be done at a later time? I wouldn't store them moore than 4 or 5 days. > >3. How much honey should be left in the hive for the bees to overwinter? > That depends on how your winters are. I overwinter in 2 brood chambers due to some very cold wind chill temp, at times it gets 30 to 50 below 0. > >Thanks for the advice. > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:44:02 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Salvador Templar Subject: Re: transgenic pollen Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Oh, good grief!! Just what we need -- more ideas for law-suits! We have >enough members of the legal "profession" coming up with them already! I >wish all you contentious litigious characters severe cases of Varroa and >AFB in all your colonies. >Walter Weller >(retired attorney) Yes, of course, we should all bend over and let the multi-national corporations stick it to us and dictate what we should consume and how we live our lives ;-) Although there is something to be said for old Billy's idea to "Kill all the lawyers" the alternative to the rule of law is "might makes right" and there's pretty good evidence that this latter is getting to be more and more the norm in environmental issues anyway-- when that's the case the only resort available to non-corporate entities, like beekeepers, are guerilla tactics-- but some of us thrive on that. As far as the issue of transgenic pollen goes: my understanding is that a lot of the work in transgenics is being done to make plants _more_ tolerant of pesticides (namely herbicides) so that the end result would be more chemical pollutants in the environment not less (especially if the resistance jumped into a weed genome via viral tranposans or the like). On the bright side, for those who fear the abuse of such technology, preliminary field trials of most transgenic products to date have been fairly disappointing compared to the manufacturers' claims. Salvador Templar (paid assasin-- lawyers done for free ;-) Deus lo volt!) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 20:10:38 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lawrence Cooke Organization: Dolores Door&Trim Subject: Bee Stings Comments: To: Bee's Bee MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes I am new to beekeeping. I asked about shuffling frames and my lost Queen problem and got great advice that made since. I put brood in lost Queen hive and will check it in a week for cells. Thanks!! Two things.. 1.) The upper side of my forearm swelled down my arm about 10 inches from one sting and my arm was hot. Is this normal ? 2.) I have two suppers on top of a strong double brood.I had one supper that they were filling nicely so I took it off and put on an empty supper and then put the filled but not capped one back, but on top.This was 3 to 4 weeks ago The top one is now filled and capped. The lower one is about half way there. Should I harvest the top one now and replace it, or wait until the end of the season. This will be my first year getting honey. Thanks, Lawrence Cooke ( Colorado ) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 19:40:28 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Margaret & Hubert Maringgele Subject: Honey Containers Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have recently moved to Vancouver Island and need to find new suppliers for honey containers. I prefer glass containers and am looking for suppliers located in British Columbia. If you can help me out, please e-mail me at mmarin@mail.island.net. Thankyou. Hubert ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 22:51:42 -0700 Reply-To: vcoppola@epix.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Supering Question MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sevigny, Marc wrote: > Questions: > > 1. Do the bees need an extra super? Yes If so, how soon? I'm not sure when the peek honey flow is here, and didn't know if the honey production will drop off quickly soon or if it will continue for a while longer. Do the bees need more room? Yes, if the flow is not over it should be on now. > 2. Can capped frames be removed and replaced with new foundation? Yes If so, can the capped frames be stored so that extraction can be done at a later time? Yes but you will have to protect them from wax moths and granulation. It would be far easier to just put another super on. This is a good time to "under super". > 3. How much honey should be left in the hive for the bees to overwinter? Depends on where you live. Two deeps will hold enough for anywhere in the US and most of Canada. Consult a local expert. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 23:31:58 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: John Wolford Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You don't. Just use another bag. John M. Wolford jmwolford@kih.net ---------- > From: Faith Andrews Bedford > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Re: Baggie Sugar Syrup Feeders > Date: Monday, July 21, 1997 1:27 PM > > In a message dated 97-07-16 09:41:27 EDT, you write: > > << I also us the baggies but with only one slit about 2 inches long. But I > can reuse the baggie by just refilling it without any trouble. Ken > Lawrence > >> > How does one refille a baggie with a slit in it ? > > Faith Andrews Bedford, Ivy, VA and Tampa ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 20:32:42 -0700 Reply-To: acuell@hooked.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Armando G. Cuellar, Jr." Organization: CATAMA Horse Ranch Subject: Re: Ants and snakes in hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Kriston M. Bruland wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I visited all of my hives this past weekend and found uninvited guests > in two > of them. One hive had black carpenter ants underneath the outer > cover, on top > of the inner cover. They had chewed big holes in the inner cover and > were > working down into the super under it. I cleaned all of them out, > removing the > eggs and all the ants. The next day they were right back in, eggs and > all. > > Another hive had two snakes sunning on the front porch, probably > eating bees > too. They went right into the hive when I approached. I managed to > drive them > out with the smoker and they went off into the woods. The next day, > there was > a different (larger) snake which also went into the hive when it saw > me. The > bees completely ignored the snakes when they went in. Fortunately we > don't > have poisonous snakes in this area. > > Does anyone have any good ideas for getting rid of either? I have > never had > either of these in hives before. > > We had some good sunny weather on the weekend and I extracted about > 400 pounds > of blackberry honey! > > Thanks, > > Kris Bruland > Member of Mt. Baker Beekeepers Association > Bellingham, WA U.S.A. Dear Kris: Can't help you with the snakes, but I battled ants and hit upon the following solution. I put my hives on 3/4" plywood boards to which I attached four 4x4 posts. These I put in plastic tubs containing motor oil. The ants could not get across the moat of motor oil to climb the posts, and my bees have remained free of ants since. -- MZ=90