========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 00:02:16 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mark D Egloff Subject: Re: Geez.... what was that? That "little red critter" was a varroa mite, and if t there arare enough varroa in youour colony to see one on the back of the bees, it's time to put in Apistan. Mark Egloff Dayton, Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 23:45:41 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Brenda Wishin Subject: Re: bee venom and CF MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BVT helps fatigue when used for MS. My husband has a lot more energy and less mood swings - which may be related. Couldn't hurt to try! Make sure to do the test sting with an epi nearby in case of an allergic reaction. Good luck! ---------- > From: Aaron D Wolfenbarger > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: bee venom and CF > Date: Thursday, August 14, 1997 7:05 PM > > Hi loopers, > > I was wondering if there was any treatment (maybe that's not the right > word) for Cronic Fatigue using beestings, or bee venom. I have a freind > who has this and was wondering. Thanks in advanve. > > Aaron Wolfenbarger > Norris, TN > 1st year > 3 hives > AND NOT ONE STINKING DROP OF HONEY!!! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 23:09:04 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Re: bee venom and CF In-Reply-To: <19970814.200207.15375.0.Bees-n-Trumpets@juno.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > I was wondering if there was any treatment (maybe that's not the right > word) for Cronic Fatigue using beestings, or bee venom. I have a freind > who has this and was wondering. Not to say there isn't, but both my son and daughter have/had CFS and neither of them has had any lack of bee stings. (My son has pretty well recovered now, and my daughter is getting better). FWIW, some people were wondering if bees caused it! Actually it seems to be an after effect of a virus flu type infection and beestings did not seem to help -- in our experience, at least. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 17:42:06 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Andrea Seymore (SAR)" Subject: CHEAP observation bee hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII The observation bee hive at the Gulf Coast World of Science in Sarasota needs to be rebuilt. We would like to build a hive with a more "natural" appearance. We want something simple and cheap, but interesting. Does anyone have any exhibit designs they might be able to send? If we can't use them as they are, we can still modify them. I am aware of observation hives in hollowed logs, but I wanted to check for any designs I might not have heard or thought of...couldn't hurt. I am a former subscriber of BEE-L but my email account was overrun by messages by the listserve and I got many nasty messages from my superuser. As such, I would appreciate any replies to my request be sent to my address: seymore@virtu.sar.usf.edu Thanks, Andrea Seymore New College, USF ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 10:51:16 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paula Franke Subject: Re: bee venom and CF MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Allen wrote: > Not to say there isn't, but both my son and daughter have/had CFS and > neither of them has had any lack of bee stings. (My son has pretty well > recovered now, and my daughter is getting better). > > FWIW, some people were wondering if bees caused it! Actually it seems to > be an after effect of a virus flu type infection and beestings did not > seem to help -- in our experience, at least. Many years ago I went to the doctor when I was feeling constantly exhausted without reason. He told me that CF was a catch-all term for feeling tired and that it was not an identifiable medical condition in itself. Blood tests at the time revealed that my problem was something called Epstein-Barr Syndrome, which is mononucleosis (that "kissing disease") that never quite goes away. I contracted mono back in the late 60's and, according to the doctor, the virus hides somewhere waiting for a chance to come out and wreak havoc whenever my defenses are low (not eating regular, not getting enough sleep, etc.) A vicious circle can result because when in the throes of Epstein-Barr, one doesn't have the energy to eat properly, exercise or engage in any of the activities of a healthy lifestyle. In my own situation, I agree with Allen. Beestings are probably not going to help. My suggestion would be find out what is causing the CF. If you're like me, all you'll need to do is adopt a sensibly healthy lifestyle so the pesky virus doesn't have an opportunity to come out and cause mischief. BTW, anyone could have had mono and thought it was just a really bad case of the flu. I was sick for five days. The only reason I know it was mono and not the flu is because everyone I was working with at the time came down with it and the company brought in a doctor to diagnose and treat all of us. Paula Franke in Tollesboro, KY pfranke@kih.net http://www.users.kih.net/~pfranke "There are only two rules in life: 1. Don't sweat the small stuff. 2. It's all small stuff." ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 10:23:10 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Arbor J. Buchanan" Subject: Re: CHEAP observation bee hive In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I too would like to build an observation bee hive with a "natural" appearance, and would very much appreciate seeing any designs and plans that may be available. Thank uou, Arbor Buchanan arborb@comp.uark.edu On Thu, 14 Aug 1997, Andrea Seymore (SAR) wrote: > The observation bee hive at the Gulf Coast World of Science in Sarasota > needs to be rebuilt. We would like to build a hive with a more "natural" > appearance. We want something simple and cheap, but interesting. Does > anyone have any exhibit designs they might be able to send? If we can't > use them as they are, we can still modify them. I am aware of observation > hives in hollowed logs, but I wanted to check for any designs I might > not have heard or thought of...couldn't hurt. > > I am a former subscriber of BEE-L but my email account was overrun by > messages by the listserve and I got many nasty messages from my superuser. > As such, I would appreciate any replies to my request be sent to my > address: > > seymore@virtu.sar.usf.edu > > Thanks, > Andrea Seymore > New College, USF > ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 17:02:56 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: Bees with black bodies MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dean Breaux wrote: > > Most Queens mate with many boyfriends from 7 to 15 with the norm about 10. So yes more than one boyfriend. > latest research on DNA tells that it will be 25!!!!! -- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 15:01:09 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: MR MARK G SPAGNOLO Subject: mite free status vs. resistance Martin makes a good point with his questioning of the development of any possible resistance to mites through exposure and the lack of exposure to mites by Kona Queens. At one time in the past the absence of mites in Hawaii was a big selling point. If you didn't have mites why would you buy queens with mites? Then, as the mite situation changed, the lack of exposure to mites, assuming you believe that bees can develop a resistance, became a negative. After a lot of thought, we decided to improve our breeding program and Artifical Insemination program by using semen from drones from the mainland of the United States. These bees had been exposed to mites and survived. By using artificial insemination we are able to preserve our mite free status and breed for resistance. Every Summer we take several trips to difference places around the US and Canada to collect semen. This is then returned to Hawaii and used to inseminate virgin queens. I am not convinced that resistance can be bred into bees, but we feel that breeding from surviving colonies that also show other good characteristics; color, honey production, temperament and such, can only be good. Aloha Mark at Kona Queen ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 15:28:02 -0700 Reply-To: leonc@telusplanet.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "L.&J. Christensen" Organization: Ikin Enterprises Ltd. Subject: Re: Geez.... what was that? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill Deer wrote: > > A little red critter looking like a mobile red dot on the back of a > bee. Bill I believe there is another little red critter that crawls around on the bees called "bee louse". In my opinion before you get too excited about treatments find out for sure what you're dealing with. Good luck! Leon ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 11:42:18 -0700 Reply-To: "Ahmed Slimi (Interprete Assermente Anglais/Francais/Arabe)" Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Ahmed Slimi (Interprete Assermente Anglais/Francais/Arabe)" Subject: subscribe In-Reply-To: <199708140632.XAA01109@norm.island.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: Multipart/Mixed; boundary="BeyondBoundary_3_Fri_Aug_15_20:14:02_1997__18BE" --BeyondBoundary_3_Fri_Aug_15_20:14:02_1997__18BE Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit BeyondMail Form: Reply Message subscribe BEE-L Ahmed Slimi --BeyondBoundary_3_Fri_Aug_15_20:14:02_1997__18BE Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="ATTRIBS.BND" Content-Transfer-Encoding: Base64 Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="ATTRIBS.BND" QmV5b25kIFBhY2tlZCBBdHRyaWJ1dGVzADMOABYAKAAAAAAAc3Vic2NyaWJl AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AGludHJwcmV0AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA8Qk1TTVRQODcxNjQxMzc5NGlu dHJwcmUAQmV5b25kIFByb3ByaWV0YXJ5IERhdGEaAAAAAAQAAAAAAAAABAAO AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARm9ybQ1SZXBseSBNZXNzYWdlBAAAAAAA AAAPACgAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABDb252ZXJzYXRpb24gSWQnPDE5 OTcwODE0MDYzMi5YQUEwMTEwOUBub3JtLmlzbGFuZC5uZXQ+BAAAAAAAAAAQ AAkAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABNZXNzYWdlIEVuY29kaW5nCElTTy04 ODU5AQAAAAAAAAAVAAMAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABVc2UgUHJvcG9y dGlvbmFsIEZvbnQBAAEJAAAAAAAAAA0ALQAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AFByZXZpb3VzIEZyb20sdWM3NzlAZnJlZW5ldC52aWN0b3JpYS5iYy5jYSAo Q29ucmFkIEJlcnViZSkNAAAAAAAAAAsAZAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AFByZXZpb3VzIFRvYgDwCAEACQD//1MAAAACUwBSIkFobWVkIFNsaW1pIChJ bnRlcnByZXRlIEFzc2VybWVudGUgQW5nbGFpcy9GcmFuY2Fpcy9BcmFiZSki PGludHJwcmV0QG9wZW4ubmV0Lm1hPg0AAAAAAAAACwBkAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAT3JpZ2luYWwgdG9iAPAIAQAJAP//UwAAAAJTAFIiQWhtZWQg U2xpbWkgKEludGVycHJldGUgQXNzZXJtZW50ZSBBbmdsYWlzL0ZyYW5jYWlz L0FyYWJlKSI8aW50cnByZXRAb3Blbi5uZXQubWE+EQAAAAAAAAANAAYAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABPcmlnaW5hbCB0ZXh0AAAAAAAAEQAAAAAAAAAE ACIAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABUZXh0HAAKc3Vic2NyaWJlIEJFRS1M IEFobWVkIFNsaW1pAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEAAGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAQXR0YWNobWVudCBDb3VudAQAAAAAAA== --BeyondBoundary_3_Fri_Aug_15_20:14:02_1997__18BE-- ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 16:43:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: AHB thread G>From: Garth >Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 18:28:20 GMT+0200 >Subject: AHB thread >Organization: Rhodes University South Africa G>Firstly, a reasonable amount of genetic evidence is cropping up to >show that the AHB's reaching and entering the US are probably not >crossed with the Euro Bees already there. Not how I read it, in fact much time and US federal money has been spent in an attempt to find such a bee in Texas with no such luck, but I am not in the BS loupe so you may have some information the rest of us missed. G>My bets are as follows: G>African bees are superior foragers and defenders and move about twice >as fast as euro bees. They are more evolved because they have more >generations per year. Twice as fast? They do dart into and out of the hive, but no way they are twice as fast here, and some are more aggressive then the local bees, but many more are no different. G>So, should an african hive swarm, it will scout about early in the >morning, after spending a night in a tree, and find a nice space full >of honey with no major defence up. This would be a weak euro hive. >Then it will invade the hive by swarming in and take out the queen >quite easily. Not the experience reported by commercial beekeepers in the US with several years of hands on (gloved hands on) experience with African bio types, or the so called "killer" bees. (I have seen a strong swarm invade one of my own weak >african hives. A strong swarm can fly early when it is cold and a >weak swarm will be so cold it is no good at defence.) This behaviour is not limited to bees in Africa and is not common here but most who spend eight or more hours a day in bee yards have seen it more then once. IMHO, Andy- Los Banos, Calif. Almost 50 years of being stung. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ "Ihr habt alle keine Chancen aber nutzt sie." ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 15:29:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Re: AHB & Hawaii MMGS>From: MR MARK G SPAGNOLO >Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 13:34:43 -0500 >Subject: Re: AHB & Hawaii MMGS>Would Andy be interested in trying a few Kona Queens now? Let me >know. I think he would be surprised! Hi Mark, Andy would love to have several of those native black's, or one of those from Slovakia. I can send you an nice breeder from Arizona in exchange. Single queens in plastic cages with feed and attendants can be shipped in a plain sealed coin envelope with no problems via air mail or express mail. ttul, Andy- --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ... Where bee-hives range on a gray bench in the garden, ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 16:39:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: Re: Hawain Queen Bees & Mite Resistance NW>From: Nick Wallingford >Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 02:23:45 +1200 >Subject: Re: Hawain Queen Bees & Mite Resistance NW>> If we continue to bring bees from mite free areas into mite infested areas >> I doubt we can improve the degree of mite resistance of our bees. If we >> persist doing so, I believe we are fighting against nature. NW>contents in a timely manner). 'Resistance' or 'susceptibility' to >mites is a hygenic behaviour not specific to having a mite present... Hi Nick, This is only one way that so called "resistance" may happen, and is not exclusive. My own idea on rearing queens and one that is followed by the majority of those who do it for a living is: one should use the best stock.. Each of us differ on what is the best stock or how we go about finding it, which assumes that we are looking and do not now have it. The only way I know of testing stock is by hands on experience with it and I would each summer buy 25 to 100 queens from several to a dozen other bee breeders in the US, and including queens sent to me for testing bootlegged from various research stations including daughters of all imported stock. I can honestly say that excepting how these queens were handled by the producer, or in shipment, that there were some differences, but this was/is the exception. A difference is something that can be measured, and in commercial beekeeping is must have a positive dollar value. Yes I have had bees that produced many different eye colors, and drones without hair, or bees with all gold color, these things are interesting but are not cost effective as they are seldom the stock that produces the most honey, but when they are those are included in the breeding line or I would not have had them in the first place. The one big exception was stock from a old time caucasian breeder who has now doing his bees in heaven. He shipped true sisters and his stock was much more productive then the average. The summer divides made with them produced much more honey then the total for the year made by the hives they were made up from. In the millions of hive visits I have made over the year I have never found any stock that was as gentle. I use to take visiting beekeepers out to these hives in the worst of conditions and just rip one of these hives apart with no smoke or protection for me or my guests, tossing the bees into the air and never would anyone get stung or would these bees make any attempt to sting anyone. Sadly the breeder queens from this test were lost and the original breeder in Georgia passed on. Other differences found were the poor temperament in the Hawaii bees, which are still purchased by many good beekeepers because they can be had early in the season when no others are available and this is an advantage to those who make up increase for others. I have no reason to doubt that these queens are not as aggressive as they once were, but I have not used them myself, and have not asked my neighbors who do get them from beekeepers early each spring to make increase. Another difference found through early experience was that some breeders from the south had bees that were susceptible to Chalk Brood, something that eliminates them from the breeder selection. It is safer to over look one cell of AFB then one Chalk Brood mummy in a breeder queen, but I would discard both myself. The best queens are always those produced by an experienced beekeeper in his own bee yards from his own stock produced for his own use. If you can't get those then the 2nd best is the queen you pick up yourself from a bee breeder within driving range of your own apiaries. After that it is a crap shoot. The way you get experience selecting breeder queens is by doing it yourself. Rank your own hives and keep a record on the hive or in a book or pc. You judge them for the qualities you feel are important to you and that can range from the color you want to the amount of pollen that can be collected from them. The actual breeding process can be as simple as using brood from that hive to start other hives and queens the natural way to artificial insemination. Some bee breeders will use your queen to rear queens for you, ask around. Try as many other queens in your production hives as you can, it is a fun thing to do and it is interesting to discover the not always so obvious difference of other beekeepers stock. One final word of caution, don't put your trust in bee breeders who have the biggest advertizements. Some bee breeders spend more effort on composing their adverting then working their own bees. Right now I don't know of any real dud's, but in the past we have had a few real ringers who made all kinds of claims in their advertising they could not live up too and disappointed many beekeepers and picked their pockets clean. BEE WARE, their is some safety in beekeepers working together so keep in contact with your neighboring beekeepers and you hand on your wallet when around those who want to sell you something, bee it information or bees. ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ... Yet, like the bee returning to her queen, ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 04:47:19 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Apiservices Subject: Apimondia Web site MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 You have two URLs for the official Apimondia web site : http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/apiservices and if it's too busy or slow : http://perso.wanadoo.fr/apiservices You can get all the information about the next Congress (Belgium, beginin= g of September) (\ {III8< (/ Ratia Gilles International beekeeping consultant APISERVICES "Le Terrier" F-24420 Coulaures - France Phone : (+33) 5 53 05 91 13 Mobile : (+33) 6 07 68 49 39 Fax : (+33) 5 53 04 44 57 Email : apiservices@compuserve.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 12:23:48 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James Meehan Subject: POLLIN IN SUPERS I was doing my normal weekly inspection and noticed a bee in the top super with her pollin baskets full. There was one frame in the top box that has alot of pollin stores. Does this mean that the brood boxes are too full of brood and they are looking for additional places to get ready for the winter? How do I entice the bees to put only honey in the supers? Jim Meehan Hampton, VA ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 11:57:12 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert E Neely Subject: Re: Excluder entrance Hi Rett I have never drilled a hole above the excluder. It may be OK to do so. The worse case scenario is for a queen to return from her maiden flight and enter above the excluder. It has caused some trouble for a small swarm to enter the super. You then have a queen above and below the excluder. Good luck. Bob Neely Goose Creek, SC neely-bee@juno.com On Tue, 22 Jul 1997 12:13:58 -0600 Rett Thorpe writes: >I am considering adding queen excluders to my two first year hives and >was wondering if it would be a good idea (or is it standard practice) >to >drill a hole or some other opening above the excluder for the workers >to >enter and exit more easily? Thanks for your replies on this matter. >Rett Thorpe >Salt Lake City, Utah > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 18:33:48 -0500 Reply-To: bkeep200@concentric.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "J.Troyer" Subject: Re: Excluder entrance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is in response to the question posted by Rett Thorpe about the use of queen excluders and the use of drilled entry holes in the supers. I do use drilled entry holes on most deep hive bodies. Bees seem to love them. I do not use any secondary entry holes on supers except for the normal vents on the inner cover. I usually do not use excluders. However, if I did use excluders (as I sometimes do) there would be less chance the queen would crawl up outside the hive and enter a super since there would be no easy entry holes. If the queen somehow did go through the excluder, she might be able to get out through the vents on the inner cover. Incidentally, I have found a queen above an excluder a few times so it may be a good idea to make sure the cover is vented. -- JTroyer Mail to:bkeep200@concentric.net http://www.concentric.net/~bkeep200 Honey Hill Farm - Handcrafted Honey & Beeswax Soaps ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 19:44:42 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Hawain Queen Bees & Mite Resistance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Martin Braunstein wrote: Dear Martin: I am afraid that you are only part right. I am very much in favor of using such queens as well. How am I ever going to find out how they will behave under "laboratory" conditions unless I submit them to testing. Until tests are actually performed no one will know for sure. I think that type of test is a must. I am making preparations to initiate some limited tests (I have limited resources) along with my mineral oil tests. Hopefully, a year from now I will have some answers. As usual, I will keep you posted. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 23:31:35 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Ralph W. Harrison" Subject: Honey Liquor Does anyone on the Bee-List have a recipe for "honey liquor" that they would be willing to share. I was thinking along the lines of something that would be aged for a year or two rather than something quick. Regards, Ralph Harrison Western Connecticut Beekeepers Association Milford, CT USA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 04:58:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: bee louse >From: "L.&J. Christensen" >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 15:28:02 -0700 >Subject: Re: Geez.... what was that? >> A little red critter looking like a mobile red dot on the back of a >> bee. > I believe there is another little red critter that crawls >around on the bees called "bee louse". > In my opinion before you get too excited about treatments find out >for sure what you're dealing with. The so called "bee louse" is very rare pest in California, I have seen only one since 1954 and that was attacked firmly to the bee and did not catch my eye because of the color, only its size. May be more common in the east? The Varroa mites seem to be light sensitive and harder to find in the early stages of building populations. As they build up numbers one is more likely to see them scampering for cover if you see them at all until they reach high numbers and can be found in most drone brood in the warmest areas of the hive and between brood supers if more then one is used. In advanced stages of build up the bees almost seem to give up trying to rid themselves of them and the mites seem to become bolder riding out in full view on the field bees. They are little red pin head sized blood suckers that once seen, never forgotten. It is fun to watch for them in nature beekeeping flicks shown on TV,..you can date the age of the bee pics by the lack of them. They were showing up in films shot in Germany and shown here before most realized they were a problem. ttul, the OLd Drone (c) Permission is granted to freely copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)Opinions are not necessarily facts. Use at own risk. --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ ... And where the bee with cowslip bells was wrestling. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 05:07:00 GMT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Organization: WILD BEE'S BBS (209) 826-8107 LOS BANOS, CA Subject: POLLIN IN SUPERS JM>From: James Meehan >Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 12:23:48 -0400 >Subject: POLLIN IN SUPERS JM>I was doing my normal weekly inspection and noticed a bee in the top super >with her pollin baskets full. There was one frame in the top box that has >alot of pollin stores. Does this mean that the brood boxes are too full of >brood and they are looking for additional places to get ready for the winter > How do I entice the bees to put only honey in the supers? Jim Meehan > Hampton, VA The normal position for pollen is adjacent to the brood and close to the hive entrance. One problem with upper entrances is that the bees will unload the pollen in the upper suppers even if there is no brood. Most beekeepers could use more pollen not less, but if it is not in the proper place for use by the bees it does no good. Some very successful beekeepers place a 6-5/8 super under the brood super in the late summer and move it above the brood chamber late in the fall or early in the spring to encourage early brood rearing. An ideal hive would/could be three of these 6-5/8 supers that were rotated on a schedule that fit the beekeepers area. I am sure some areas would need more for winter. ttul, the OLd Drone "standard disclaimer for T&A" --- ~ QMPro 1.53 ~ Un Dia Tal Vez! (One Day Maybe) a full n^rd node. sp erro ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 08:53:27 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: fermented syrup Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have a few drums of syrup which was not consumed by the bees. It has now fermented. I hate to dump it but do not want to do any harm if I was to feed it to the bees. They will likely not take it as it is but would it be a good idea to add some if it to fresh syrup? I wonder about the harmful affects as well as the nutritional value. Eric Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 08:53:29 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: Re: mite free status vs. resistance Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I like the idea of introducing genes from successful colonies into your stock but do not understand why you would select for color as a good characteristic. It is even listed first. I feel that if I am interested in colorful bees I would be better off raising butterflies. Eric > >I am not convinced that resistance can be bred into bees, but we feel >that breeding from surviving colonies that also show other good >characteristics; color, honey production, temperament and such, can >only be good. > >Aloha > >Mark at Kona Queen > > Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 09:02:24 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Donald Aitken Subject: Re: fermented syrup In-Reply-To: <199708171453.IAA25559@bernie.compusmart.ab.ca> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Sun, 17 Aug 1997, Eric Abell wrote: > I have a few drums of syrup which was not consumed by the bees. It has now > fermented. Hi Eric! I have used some fermented syrup in the past without apparent harm. It was heated to drive off the alcohol and kill the yeast. I fed it in the spring and the bees took it willingly. Dilution with a large proportion of new syrup is probably a good idea, but I would still heat it first to sterilize it. You don't want to inoculate your entire feed supply with high sugar tolerant yeasts! Donald Aitken 11710-129 Street Edmonton Alberta Canada T5M 0Y7 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 12:07:58 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Re: fermented syrup In-Reply-To: <199708171453.IAA25559@bernie.compusmart.ab.ca> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > I have a few drums of syrup which was not consumed by the bees. It has now > fermented. I hate to dump it but do not want to do any harm if I was to > feed it to the bees. They will likely not take it as it is but would it be > a good idea to add some if it to fresh syrup? I wonder about the harmful > affects as well as the nutritional value. I have no experience with drums, but good experience with a gallon. I found a gallon of syrup left over from last year and it was fermented, thin, and had mold. All I did was boil it. Tt thickened and was readily taken by the bees. I presume the boiling killed the mold and evaporated the alcohol. You have to understand that you won't end up with the same amount of sugar since a lot of the sugar was turned into alcohol and then evaporated, but it's a way to save what you can. It may not be so convenient to boil a whole drum but I've done it for lye baths. Just prop the drum on cement blocks and burn wood beneath it until the syrup boils. Don't leave the drum full or it might spill when it boils. Also keeping it covered will greatly speed up the boiling. Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 09:42:45 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbar Subject: COLOR In-Reply-To: <199708171453.IAA25563@bernie.compusmart.ab.ca> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 08:53 AM 8/17/97 -0600, you wrote: >stock but do not understand why you would select for color as a good >characteristic. It is even listed first. I feel that if I am >interested in colorful bees I would be better off raising butterflies. If any beekeeper can rear butterflies he should do that as the returns can bee 5x what they are for queen bees. Bee breeders have used color for generations as personal identifiers, a few old time Canadians may remember "Banta's", a Pioneer in shipping bees to Canada. His bees, and I have done this, could easily be picked out by walking down the rows of hundreds of hives and judging the bees at the entrance. They were bright yellow and VERY productive. The same could be done with the black's from Humphrey's of Georgia. These bee's also were very productive. Selecting for color also extends to the queens. Any shipper who ships mixed colored queens and represents his bees as one race or another usually does not last long. Each bee breeder must do what he must do to and you can get away with doing less when you are your own customer, but color will remain one of the many things that are looked at in selecting breeder queens. I personally like the "tiger" colors one can get from "nature" queens and have killed so many on some days that the drones would follow me around the queen yards. The truth in all this is that NO one bee breeder has advanced his bees to the point that he can sell them as beeing more productive that any other's. The main quality difference is in the environment they were reared and how they were handled in shipment, but the color of the bees sold can be adjusted by good selection. Most times mongrels or pot lickers grown under the best conditions are as productive as the best, but the sales price is seldom worthwhile. ttul, the OLd Drone "standard disclaimer & cautions" ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 12:58:05 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Black Pollen Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Can anyone suggest the sources of the black and dark-green pollen loads, appearing lately (past month or so) in our pollen traps? Location is central NY State. Thanks for any info! We've noticed quite an interesting array of colors this summer. Best regards, J. Govostes ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 14:23:46 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Re: Honey Liquor In-Reply-To: <970816233134_607014494@emout11.mail.aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > Does anyone on the Bee-List have a recipe for "honey liquor" that they would > be willing to share. I sent a long email regarding mead directly to Mr. Harrison. If anyone else would like it, ask me privately. Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 14:24:21 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: bee louse MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Andy Nachbaur wrote: Dear friends: Recently I have seen quite a few posts on Bee-L regarding observations of "mite-like" creatures on their bees or confines of the colony. I would like to offer the following lines in an effort to assist in the differentiation of Varroa mites. I agree that the bee louse might be confused with Varroa mites by observers at a glance. However, upon closer inspection, definite identification can be made of the two. The bee louse (Braula coeca) has three pairs of legs while Varroa mites have four pairs of legs. The bee louse generally will be observed attached to the head or dorsal aspect of the thorax of bees and most usually on queens. While I have seen mites on all anatomical sections of bees in heavy infestations, Varroa mites prefer the ventral aspect of the abdominal segment where they feed by inserting their mouth parts between the segments of the abdomen. The louse feeds directly from the mouth of the host bee. I am in agreement that most beekeepers do not have magnifying equipment to make this fine differentiation. However, all beekeepers should become acquainted with the appearance of Varroa mites simply by looking at pictures available in bee literature. Once known, Varroa mites will not be confused with any other mite or spider, etc. In my opinion, Varroa mites are significantly important to humankind enough that every beekeeper should make efforts to know how to recognize them. I do not have a scanner, but I do know a friend that does. I plan to ask my friend to send me a post with photos of these. If and when I receive them, I promise that I will post them to the list. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 14:33:25 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Black Pollen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel Govostes wrote: Hi Joel. I do not collect pollen, hence I am not experienced with the fine details of pollen. From my limited observations, I would like to suggest the following: One source of green pollen can be from sunflowers. Black pollen could be pollen that has undergone oxidation. I'll watch for opinions from fellow contributors. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 12:17:50 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbar Subject: Re: Black Pollen In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 12:58 PM 8/17/97 -0500, you wrote: >Can anyone suggest the sources of the black and dark-green pollen loads, >appearing lately (past month or so) in our pollen traps? Location is >central NY State. > Some flowers may produce black pollen, but bees will also gather different black smut spores off of grasses such as rice and other water grasses. I would not be happy if I had much of this as these spores can be very toxic. One experience I had was in selling "rice" pollen to a natural ice cream maker and receiving his call and vivid description of the black "pollen". "it explodes when mixed into the milk fat and forms a large circle of black ice cream", he was not happy and the ice cream was destroyed. After that I was very careful if any black "pollen" came out of the traps. ttul Andy- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 18:38:11 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kirk Jones Subject: Re: Black Pollen Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Can anyone suggest the sources of the black and dark-green pollen loads, >appearing lately (past month or so) in our pollen traps? Location is >central NY State. > >Thanks for any info! We've noticed quite an interesting array of colors >this summer. > >Best regards, > >J. Govostes I've seen black pollen from Poppies. *Kirk Jones/ Sleeping Bear Apiaries /971 S. Pioneer Rd./Beulah,MI 49617 *Sharon Jones/ BeeDazzled Candleworks /6289 River Rd./ Benzonia, MI 49616 e-mail b-man@aliens.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 18:38:21 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Kirk Jones Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #586, 16 August 1997 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >To: B-man >From: mead@talisman.com >Date: 17 Aug 97 01:17:54 -0500 >Subject: Mead Lover's Digest #586, 16 August 1997 > > > >Mead Lover's Digest #586 16 August 1997 > > Forum for Discussion of Mead Making and Consuming > Dick Dunn, Digest Janitor > >Contents: > Nut Meads (Kate Collins) > Poison Cherry Melomel (Kate Collins) > Cherry Stones/fermentation temps/buffers ("Nathan L. Kanous II") > Poisn Mead? (Gordon & Cindy Camp) > Yeast Starters for Mead ("Val J. Lipscomb") > 1st melomel question... (jfischer@access.digex.net) > corking (Matt Maples) > Re: Mead Lover's Digest #585, 14 August 1997 (Marc Shapiro) > Fwd: failed mail (Robert L Lewis) > >NOTE: Digest only appears when there is enough material to send one. >Send ONLY articles for the digest to mead@talisman.com. >Use mead-request@talisman.com for [un]subscribe/admin requests. When > subscribing, please include name and email address in body of message. >Digest archives and FAQ are available for anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu > in pub/clubs/homebrew/mead. >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Subject: Nut Meads >From: Kate Collins >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 10:47:40 +0200 > >Hi - > >I'm sure this has been discussed before but I figure it can't hurt >to revive interesting topics. Does anyone have any recipes for >mead made with nuts? Where I live, chestnut trees are about as >prolific as dandelions, so I figured maybe I could put the chestnuts >to good use. I'll bet they would be delicious in that milk-honey >stuff discussed a few months ago, but I'd prefer to do just a >regular old mead first (I can always freeze the nuts). > >/Kate Collins > >------------------------------ > >Subject: Poison Cherry Melomel >From: Kate Collins >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 11:46:38 +0200 > >> I just made a blackberry-cherry mel. I didn't think until after >> the fact that cherry stones contain poision. I left the fruit >> (stones and all) in the primary for about a week. Does anyone know >> if I made poision mead? Thanks for the help. > >Leaving the cherries in the primary wouldn't cause any problems - the >proportion of cherries to finished product sounds pretty low and the >poison doesn't really leach out (many recipes for canned cherries >leave the pits in). However, if you cooked the cherries with the must >at a high heat for, say, 1/2 hour or longer, some of the poison MAY >have been extracted - but I doubt it would be enough to hurt you. > >/Kate Collins > (Botanist) > >------------------------------ > >Subject: Cherry Stones/fermentation temps/buffers >From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 09:35:53 -0400 > >Hi, > >WRT cherry pits left in the fermentor for a month, yes, cherry pits do >contain toxic substances. The cherries, pits included, are commonly >left in beers for similar amounts of time with no detrimental effects. >I wouldn't worry. > >Question about fermentation temp. I was curious if anyone has >recommendations for "proper fermentation" temp with wine yeasts. I am >looking to avoid the production of fusel or other "higher" alcohols. I >can't stand the taste of them and I notice them even after extended >periods of aging. I would prefer to avoid their production all >together. I don't mind a longer fermentation if I can avoid the "higer" >alcohols. Premier Cuvee, or Lalvin 1116 yeasts. Any thoughts on temps >to recommend? > >WRT buffers, has anyone developed an effective buffer to use in meads to >avoid the difficulties with low pH and "stuck" yeast? > >Also, someone posted about the Wyeast Sweet Mead yeast. I made a batch >of cyser last fall which has a very distinct aroma and taste. It tastes >(imagine this) like Copenhagen snuff. Yeah, chewing tobacco. Anybody >else ever have this? If I could avoid that, I would use the yeast >again. If not, no way. Everybody else drinks it and thinks it's O.K.. >I can drink it but would prefer to avoid that taste. > >Sorry for the bandwidth. TIA > >nathan in Frankenmuth, MI > >------------------------------ > >Subject: Poisn Mead? >From: Gordon & Cindy Camp >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 10:33:42 -0400 > >Dave Asks: > >I just made a blackberry-cherry mel. I didn't think until after the fact >that cherry stones contain poision. I left the fruit (stones and all) in the >primary for about a week. Does anyone know if I made poision mead? >Thanks >for the help. > >As an occasional mead maker who is an avid homebrewer I can tell you >that in brewing the stones are recommednded to be left in for added >flavor. Also, as far as danger, Michael Jackson (not that one) writes in >his book "Beer Companion" p. 44 "As fermentation consumes theflesh of >the fruit, it eventually reaches the stone, and picks up the almondy >notes that make a good kriek especially complex." Since the great >Belgian brewers seem to not fear "getting stoned", I can't imagine that >you should either. > >Please note that I am not a Doctor, however I did play one in the third >grade. > > >G. Camp > >If there aint no beer in heaven, then damn me to hell. > >------------------------------ > >Subject: Yeast Starters for Mead >From: "Val J. Lipscomb" >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 16:54:20 -0500 (CDT) > >Greetings All, > >I've noticed a number of posts lately on the above subject. >For several years I've used a starter on all meads,whether >using liquid yeast or dry wine yeasts. I think that I have >faster, more complete ferments this way. The starter is from >Appendix 1 of the Bee's Lees, which also has a lot of other >good info and recipes. Get it at: > >http://realbeer.com/brewery/library/beeslees.html > >Try it, you'll like it! > >Val Lipscomb-Makin' Mead in San Antonio > >------------------------------ > >Subject: 1st melomel question... >From: jfischer@access.digex.net >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 17:37:09 -0400 > >I have started my first mead, an orange melomel, with (I think)good >results...my question is: I have read in several sources that a melomel >takes less time to finish than a true mead...but how much sooner? >Should I rack and taste it once a month? Also, it has been bubbling >away nicely for a week now...when should I expect to need to rack it for >a first time (it's in plastic now, I'd like to move it to glass ASAP) > >Thanks for listening, I've been "lurking" for a while now and have >learned a lot! > >- -- >- - lori >- -------------------------------------------------- >"Little old lady got mutilated late last night, > Werewolves of London again... " >- -------------------------------------------------- > >------------------------------ > >Subject: corking >From: Matt Maples >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 16:27:43 -0700 > >I have been using wine bottles ( ya got to love those magnums) and >corking my still meads for about 3 years now and I was wanting to get >some feedback on sanitizing the corks. I have read about soaking in a >sulfite solution but really didn't like that idea much. I have also read >that you can steam them for 20 min which I like much better and have >been doing that. I have also found that if you steam them they are not >quite wet enough to make for easy corking. to remedy that I dip them in >a weak iodophor solution. That way they are still sanitary and they are >wet and slick enough to insert well. I would like to know how others are >doing it please let me know. > >Matt Maples >mattm@ipacrx.com > >------------------------------ > >Subject: Re: Mead Lover's Digest #585, 14 August 1997 >From: Marc Shapiro >Date: Fri, 15 Aug 1997 20:27:05 -0400 > >> Subject: When to Sanitize Fruits >> From: Katydidit@aol.com >> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 11:00:43 -0400 (EDT) >> >> (1) If I am not going to prepare the fruit along with the must, when do I >> treat the fruits with sulphites -- at the intial prep (before freezing) or at >> the time of thaw and pulverization? > >I either juice my fruit and add it to the initial must, or (if the fruit >does not 'juice' easily) I put it in with the primary fermentation. >However, if you prefer to add the fruit during a secondary fermentation >I see no real reason against this. I don't think it really matters when >you add the sulfites. They will not be harmed by freezing, and bacteria >is not going to grow during freezing, either. I would say that this is >a matter of personal preference and do whatever is easier, or seems >better to you. > >> (2) If I am going to sanitize the fruit via sulphites rather than >> pasteurization, are there any advisements against sanitizing the must in the >> same way (i.e., sodium metabisulphite rather than boiling)? > >If you are using sulfites on the fruit, you might as well use it in the >initial must, as well. Just be sure that the TOTAL amount of sulfites >in the final melomel is not out of line. > >- ---- > >> Subject: Pasteurization, starters >> From: Samuel Mize >> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 1997 15:12:00 -0500 (CDT) >> >> To pasteurize, crush the fruit, put it into some water, and heat it to >> 150 for 20 minutes, or to 170 for 5 minutes. (I'm not a microbiologist, >> this is based on Papazian's New Complete Joy of Homebrewing, Papazian's >> Homebrewer's Companion, and an article in Southwest Brewing News.) >> >> Some people pasteurize their honey when making mead (same temperatures >> and times). It's a compromise... > >According to _Inside Mead_ (Sorry, I don't recall which one and mine are >alread packed to to an impending move) 3-5 minutes at 150F is sufficient >to pasteurize honey for mead. The lower the temperature and the shorter >the heating time, the better (for honey AND fruit), so I wouldn't go >over 5 minutes. > >HTH > >Wassail! > >Marc >- -- >Visit "The Meadery": http://www.mindspring.com/~mn.shapiro1/index.html > >"If you drink melomel every day, you will live to be 150 years old, >unless your wife shoots you." >- --Dr. Ferenc Androczi, Winemaker of the Little Hungary Winery > >------------------------------ > >Subject: Fwd: failed mail >From: bobbylew@ix.netcom.com (Robert L Lewis) >Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 10:18:58 -0500 (CDT) > > >Subject: Destoning Cherries >From: DFusion@aol.com >Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 16:02:46 -0400 (EDT) > >Hello everyone- > I just made a blackberry-cherry mel. I didn't think until after >the fact that cherry stones contain poision. I left the fruit (stones >and all) in the primary for about a week. Does anyone know if I made >poision mead? > > I don't know if the pits contain poison, are considered >corsonigenic, or what. I do know that there is at least one Belgian >beer (Cantillon) that lets the cherries & pits sit in the primary >fermentation for months, while making their Cantillon Kriek. (A truly >superb lambic, if those are your tastes HTTP://WWW.Cantillon.com). They >use sour cherries though. > I can not verify the safety of your mead. However, if you don't >feel same drinking it, send me some. I'll be glad to sample it, just >to make sure it's safe... > Check your references... If there really is something funky in >Cherry pits, I would be interested in knowing. > >Robert > > > > >------------------------------ > >End of Mead Lover's Digest #586 >******************************* > *Kirk Jones/ Sleeping Bear Apiaries /971 S. Pioneer Rd./Beulah,MI 49617 *Sharon Jones/ BeeDazzled Candleworks /6289 River Rd./ Benzonia, MI 49616 e-mail b-man@aliens.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 21:44:02 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Joel Govostes Subject: Re: Black Pollen Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thanks for the suggestions. Just occured to me that there are a lot of Tiger Lilies (the orange flowers) blooming all around here. Perhaps that is the source of the black pollen(?) -- I'll check this out. There are scattered patches of sunflower this time of year, with full blooms, so that could be the source of the green stuff. Now that the goldenrod is coming in, there is more bright orange pollen in the mix. Thanks & regards, JWG >>Can anyone suggest the sources of the black and dark-green pollen loads, >>appearing lately (past month or so) in our pollen traps? Location is >>central NY State. >> >>Thanks for any info! We've noticed quite an interesting array of colors >>this summer. >> >>Best regards, >> >>J. Govostes > >I've seen black pollen from Poppies. > >*Kirk Jones/ Sleeping Bear Apiaries /971 S. Pioneer Rd./Beulah,MI 49617 >*Sharon Jones/ BeeDazzled Candleworks /6289 River Rd./ Benzonia, MI 49616 > e-mail b-man@aliens.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 23:56:58 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: varroa vs bee lice (braulids) Somebody smack me if I am wrong but varroa mites seem to move wide side first and braulids move like insects narrow side first. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 03:57:51 UT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Chewy Honey Hello, I entered My thick honey in the Marshfield Fair(MA,USA)and it took third place.The first and second place entries were crystal clear compared to Mine(which was only filtered through the commercialy available cloth that I bought through a catalog.They took off three points for the very low moisture(14%),but it did very well otherwise.I am going to buy some of the organelle cloth that was recommended,and enter it in another fair next month.My cut comb,and chunk honey both took first prize.Thanks for the advice. Garry Libby Boston,USA GlibBEE@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 03:21:57 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: The Bankses Subject: Re: PRODUCING ROYAL JELLY I am interested in receiving information regarding royal jelly production. AEXP Marcia Banks IDS Tower 10 T32-1324 Minneapolis, MN 55440 On Fri, 8 Aug 1997 06:49:16 -0400 "HELP" writes: >In a message dated 05/08/97 21:59:50, you write: > ><< Hi y'all, > I would be grateful for any information or contacts on the > subject of producing RoyalJelly. > > Contact through the list or directly to save cluttering this list. > thanks in advance for those who respond. > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Mike Vercoe > Company Bee Honey > Central Otago,NEW ZEALAND > dmverco@es.co.nz > >> >Mike > >I edit Bee Biz, an international magazine for commercial beekeepers. >In the >current issue which is just being mailed out, I have reprinted the >Carnet >European on Commercial Jelly Production. You will find this of >interest - it >has lots of good practical information. > >Please let me have a mailing address, and I shall send you a >complimentary >copy. > >The same goes for any other subscriber to Bee-L who is interested. > >Regards > >Mathhew J Allan > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 08:47:00 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Robert E Neely Subject: Re: Chewy Honey Congratulations Garry Stick with it. Bob Neely Goose Creek, SC neely-bee@juno.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 09:01:23 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Black Pollen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT I too have noticed the black and dark green pollen coming in lately. A member of my Beekeepers Association identified the black pollen as "Joe Pye Weed" (sorry no Latin). Joe Pye Weed is a moisture loving plant and blooms in areas not yet taken over by Purple Loosestrife (again no Latin). I have no guess about the dark green stuff. I was amazed at the amount of the dark green and black pollen the bees have been bringing in - it was definitely the largest load harvested from my Stauffer pollen trap this season. I try to empty the trap daily when it's activated. I trap only enough pollen from a single trap to have sufficient quantity to mix with pollen substitutes for early spring patties. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 09:11:06 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "HELP" Subject: Refractive indices I have three honey refractometers, each giving a different reading, within 1%. I shall discuss this with the manufacturers. In the meantime I would appreciate some assistance with background information. The charts that come with the instruments give tables of refractive indices of sucrose solutions of differing concentration at different temps. My memory tells me that the refractive index of say an 80% fructose/glucose mixture is not the same as an 80% sucrose solution. Where is the best place to find out this information? Regards Matthew J Allan ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 15:05:21 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: Black Pollen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel Govostes wrote: > Can anyone suggest the sources of the black and dark-green pollen loads, > appearing lately (past month or so) in our pollen traps? Location is > central NY State. In "A colour guide to the pollen loads of the honey bee" from William KIRK, IBRA the verry dark pollen are Echium vulgare (Viper's bugloss) Phacelia tanacetiflora (Phacelia) Hyacinthoides hispanica (Spanish bluebell) Scillia siberia (Siberian squill) Chamerion angustifolium (Rosebay willowherb)>>dark green Papaver orientale (Oriental poppy) and in the Netherlands Tulips (our national proud) have black pollen.(only in april/may) -- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:04:54 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jim Moore Subject: Re: Black Pollen As to green pollen, purple loosetrife is a possibility. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 15:58:17 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: International Bee Research Subject: IBRA Content-Type: text IBRA's network connection will be having a major upgrade (starts Tuesday 19 August) which means we will temporarily lose our email facilities for a few days - please use other means to contact us if your message is urgent. Fax: (01222) 665522 ************************************************************** * International Bee Research Association * * Please state who your message is for at IBRA * *============================================================* * E.mail : ibra@cardiff.ac.uk | Mail: IBRA * * Phone : (+44) 1222 372 409 | 18 North Road * * Fax : (+44) 1222 665 522 | Cardiff CF1 3DY, UK * ************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 09:48:56 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Patrick M. O'Hearn" Subject: Apistan and Tracheal Mites MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Re Allens question about Apistans action on trach. mites, I was at the annual Federation of Irish Beekeepers summer course at Gormanston several weeks ago. While Ireland has not found Varroa and thus, Irish beekeepers are not having to treat with Apistan, there were a number of English beekeepers at the conference. Many of them made the statement that, since they had to begin using Apistan, tracheal mites were a thing of the past. Also claimed that it totally eliminated the bee louse as well. Just hearsay but thought I would pass it along. Patrick M. O'Hearn Bears Choice Honey Aztec, New Mexico ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 07:10:58 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "David R. Andersen" Subject: Re: Honey Liquor In-Reply-To: <09184291011327@systronix.net> from "Excerpts from BEE-L" at Aug 18, 97 03:16:03 am MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Conrad - I'd be interested in having a copy of your response. Thanks. Dave Andersen k0rx@solon.eng.uiowa.edu > > Does anyone on the Bee-List have a recipe for "honey liquor" that they would > > be willing to share. > > I sent a long email regarding mead directly to Mr. Harrison. If anyone else > would like it, ask me privately. > > Conrad Sigona > conrad@ntcnet.com > -- _______________________________________________________________________ David R. Andersen Internet k0rx@solon.eng.uiowa.edu Ph: 319-644-2637 AX.25 k0rx@wa0rjt.ia.usa.na FAX: 319-353-1115 WWW http://marv.eng.uiowa.edu/ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 02:31:14 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Stan Sandler Subject: Re: fermented syrup Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I have no experience with drums, but good experience with a gallon. I >found a gallon of syrup left over from last year and it was fermented, >thin, and had mold. All I did was boil it. Tt thickened and was >readily taken by the bees. I presume the boiling killed the mold and >evaporated the alcohol. I thought that boiling sugar syrup caramelizes the sugars and gives the bees dysentery. Not the sort of thing one would like in winter feed. But hey, if you WERE going to boil a barrel of fermented syrup why not thread an adapter and some copper tubing into the little bung hole and pass it through some cold water.... :) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 02:16:47 -0300 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Stan Sandler Subject: Re: Black Pollen Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >>Can anyone suggest the sources of the black and dark-green pollen loads, >>appearing lately (past month or so) in our pollen traps? Location is >>central NY State. Sorry Joel, I do not know the sources. However, I confirm that I am also getting such pollen in Prince Edward Island. It certainly does not seem to be a smut (it tastes fine) and there is way too much for it to be from poppies or sunflowers. It is the main pollen coming in to some of the traps. I find some to be blue black more than green black. I am surprised to still see it now that goldenrod has started here. As Vince Coppola once noted my eyes started to itch working the hives as soon as the first flowers opened. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 19:00:17 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: JRmintin@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Apimondia Web site as a novice bee keeper could you tell me am i better off to leave the bees go during the extreem cold midwest winters and order new bees in early spring and not wory about mites and treatments. do the bees leave the hive with temps around zero and colder. one other thing i extracted honey today and really pleased with the amounts how come some of the supers have wax extending quarter of an inch which makes it easy to shave off the wax but some frames the wax is even or inside frame wan easy way to remove the wax on these thank you kindly jerry from Wisconsin ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 12:23:07 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Patricia Subject: writer seeks basic bee information Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am a writer currently working on a comic fantasy novel. One chapter requires the main characters to encounter a hive of oversided bees. Although the book is a spoof and will not be completely true to reality (for example, the bees talk), I want to be as technically accurate as possible. I have done research on bees but am hoping for a quick review from an expert who could point out obvious errors. If anyone would be willing to provide some comments about bees, bee behavior and hives, please contact me. Patricia Snyder wordcat@cdsnet.net ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 01:24:34 UT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Black Pollen Hello, While trying to guess where the pollens are from,could Anyone offer Me a guess as to which plant gave all the bright yellow honey about a month ago ? It was just a little bitter,but tasted OK.Thanks for Your guesses. Garry Libby Boston,MA USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 22:14:42 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: fermented syrup MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Stan Sandler wrote: Way to go Stan! Just make sure the Feds are not around! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 02:26:43 UT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: Chewy Honey Hello Bob, Thank You for the kind words. Garry Libby ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 21:09:43 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Simics Subject: bvt and chronic fatique Comments: cc: bees-n-trumpets@juno.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Aaron asked about bee venom therapy and chronic fatigue syndrome. Yes sufferers of this condition have benefitted from the use of bee venom . Michael Simics has more information on this . He is in Calgary , Alberta right now collecting venom and will be back at the end of the month. You may wish to call him at (604) 271-9414. He also sells therapy materials and has a catalogue . You can download the catalogue from his web site http://www.direct.ca/beevenom. Sorry I can't give you more info on it. I am answering his mail and responding to inquiries while he is away. Darlene ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 23:48:17 -0600 Reply-To: sholisky@winternet.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Scott Holisky Subject: Re: writer seeks basic bee information MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I think Allen touched on this last April...or was it the truth? Bee's the size of your thumb... :) Scott St.Paul, MN USA * Black & Green pollen here too! * ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 11:19:50 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: Refractive indices MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-2 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have three honey refractometers, each giving a different reading, within > 1%. I shall discuss this with the manufacturers. In the meantime I would > appreciate some assistance with background information. The charts that come > with the instruments give tables of refractive indices of sucrose solutions > of differing concentration at different temps. My memory tells me that the > refractive index of say an 80% fructose/glucose mixture is not the same as an > 80% sucrose solution. Where is the best place to find out this information? > > Regards > > Matthew J Allan on my site is a tabel with the refractometer reading and true value in honey hope you can use it http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/corrrefrac.html -- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | EMAIL:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 20:38:47 +0900 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Pollen - treatment and storage Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I plan to use pollen traps for the first time this year to collect spring pollen which is in excessive supply and feed it back to the hives in late summer when the nectar sources are pollen poor. The traps will be on my back yard hives only so I can empty them every couple of days and I plan to dry the pollen in a dehydrator and freeze to kill insect eggs. I would appreciate any hints as to the best ways to store and use the pollen collected. Does anybody have instructions for how to feed pollen to bees, particularly during a nectar flow so as to maintain brood growth for following honey crops? Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island j.h. & e. mcadam Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: Re: fermented syrup Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thanks, Don, I like your idea although heating may be difficult. Perhaps I will try to hold it to spring when I can monitor the bees better. Winter feed is a big risk. Eric At 09:02 AM 17/08/97 -0600, you wrote: >On Sun, 17 Aug 1997, Eric Abell wrote: > >> I have a few drums of syrup which was not consumed by the bees. It has now >> fermented. > >Hi Eric! > >I have used some fermented syrup in the past without apparent harm. It was >heated to drive off the alcohol and kill the yeast. I fed it in the spring >and the bees took it willingly. > >Dilution with a large proportion of new syrup is probably a good idea, but >I would still heat it first to sterilize it. You don't want to inoculate >your entire feed supply with high sugar tolerant yeasts! > >Donald Aitken >11710-129 Street >Edmonton Alberta Canada >T5M 0Y7 > > Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 08:14:19 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Eric Abell Subject: Re: fermented syrup Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You have a good point about reduced sugar content. I think I can handle the boiling much as you described. Perhaps I will save it until spring. Eric At 12:07 PM 17/08/97 -0500, you wrote: >> I have a few drums of syrup which was not consumed by the bees. It has now >> fermented. I hate to dump it but do not want to do any harm if I was to >> feed it to the bees. They will likely not take it as it is but would it be >> a good idea to add some if it to fresh syrup? I wonder about the harmful >> affects as well as the nutritional value. > >I have no experience with drums, but good experience with a gallon. I >found a gallon of syrup left over from last year and it was fermented, >thin, and had mold. All I did was boil it. Tt thickened and was >readily taken by the bees. I presume the boiling killed the mold and >evaporated the alcohol. You have to understand that you won't end up with >the same amount of sugar since a lot of the sugar was turned into alcohol >and then evaporated, but it's a way to save what you can. > >It may not be so convenient to boil a whole drum but I've done it >for lye baths. Just prop the drum on cement blocks and burn wood beneath >it until the syrup boils. Don't leave the drum full or it might spill >when it boils. Also keeping it covered will greatly speed up the >boiling. > >Conrad Sigona >conrad@ntcnet.com > > Eric Abell Gibbons, Alberta Canada T0A 1N0 Ph/fax (403) 998 3143 eabell@compusmart.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 10:23:49 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: writer seeks basic bee information In a message dated 97-08-19 07:48:19 EDT, you write: << I want to be as technically accurate as possible. I have done research on bees but am hoping for a quick review from an expert who could point out obvious errors. If anyone would be willing to provide some comments about bees, bee behavior and hives, please contact me. >> I'll take a shot at it. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 22:05:18 +22324924 Reply-To: adamf@vt.edu Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Adam Finkelstein Subject: Vote on beekeeping books Content-Type: text Hello bee-l folks, After some lucid Usenet discussion, a "beekeeping book faq" was thought necessary by the readers of sci.agriculture.beekeeping. Since so many of you read beekeeping books too, I thought you might want to contribute your best book ideas. Reply to this letter with your vote for your favorite beekeeping book: Can be as many as you like, and comments are good too-- I'll tabulate all the votes from sci.agriculture.beekeeping and bee-l, write a summary and then create a FAQ for beekeeping books that will be available at http://sunsite./unc.edu/bees Hope to hear from you with a vote! Adam -- _________________ Adam Finkelstein adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 14:55:19 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Debbie Hutchings Subject: Virus could wipe out your computor's hard drive !!!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit *----------------------------------------------------* Regards, Raymond Smith Westport Computers at http://www.canlink.com/rideaucom *----------------------------------------------------* ---------- > From: Derrick Smith > To: Andrew Caron ; Big Buck ; Gil O'Campo ; Gordana Tripic ; Howard Pearl ; Ian Roberts ; John Wright ; Luba Chastelet ; Mike Sankey ; Mike Cassibo ; Noel Ellamil ; Robert Aide ; Sam Barrios ; Scott Gray ; Scott Langlois ; Stephen Pearce ; Jim Kabrajee (E-mail) ; Joanne Fitzpatrick (E-mail) ; Keith Carmichael (E-mail) ; Layne Conner (E-mail) ; Marsha Maynard (E-mail) ; Neil Mak (E-mail) ; Raymond Smith (E-mail) > Subject: Virus *****Warning > Date: Tuesday, August 19, 1997 11:42 AM > > Please distribute this warning to everyone you know that has EMail. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: George Georgas [SMTP:ggeorgas@pplmarketing.com] > Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 1997 11:19 AM > To: Derrick Smith > Subject: Fw: Readme Virus *****Warning > > > > > > If you receive an e-mail titled "JOIN THE CREW" DO NOT open it! > > It will erase EVERYTHING on your hard drive! > > Send this letter out to as many people you can. > > This is a new virus that is not yet detectable by most virus protection > > software. > > ---------------------- Forwarded by Caroline Corvington on 08/19/97 09:17 > > AM --------------------------- > > > Hi Everyone! A dear friend in the computor industry just sent me this message, and I am passing it on to you... If it is true I would not want anyone to lose their files. Debbie from Canada ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 15:23:15 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: seasons end varroa and wintering Been a good season overall, made increase from 14 to 26 hives in 2 deeps and still got close to a thousand pounds of honey. Goldenrod is coming on and I am thinking about shutting down half my production and taking the supers off and putting in apistan and patties. Going to take my lightest hefting hives for the early shutdown and let them refill the deeps for winter stores. I have seen a few varroa mites on drone brood although not many. The hives had apistan in them early in the year and mineral oil on frame tops throughout the season. So I will miss a portion of the fall darker honey from two of the yards where I keep bees and insure a better survival for those bees. Any comments from the more experianced greatly appreciated Tom in New London CT ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 14:35:17 CDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steve Arnold Subject: Virus Hoax DON'T BELIEVE IT!!! Virus hoaxes like this one have been floating around the internet for years. The only purpose is to get people to send large amounts of email, thereby clogging up servers. Folks, it is flat out impossible for you to get a virus from reading an e-mail message. It can't be done. Letters warning you about "Good Times," "Irina," "Deeyenda," "Penpal Greetings," and any other e-mail-born viruses are HOAXES! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 14:41:53 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Steven Albritton Subject: Re: Virus Hoax Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Yea Right! This one may be a hoax but the one that wiped my hard drive was not. The same one also wiped a co-worker's computer at work. Steven Albritton LDS Communications, Sports America, Chauvin Honey Farms Monroe, Louisiana ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 16 Aug 1997 00:35:00 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Albert W Needham Subject: Re: Virus Hoax On Tue, 19 Aug 1997 14:41:53 -0500 Steven Albritton writes: >Yea Right! This one may be a hoax but the one that wiped my hard >drive was >not. The same one also wiped a co-worker's computer at work. >Steven Albritton >LDS Communications, Sports America, Chauvin Honey Farms >Monroe, Louisiana > I have also read many places that a simple e-mail message cannot contain a virus. It was correct to say that these types of hoaxes come up regularly and seem to scare the b-j's out of everyone. Are you sure that there was not a file attached to the e-mail that you opened and then that was the virus in the box, so to speak? Al, ----------------------------------------------------------- awneedham@juno.com - Scituate,MA,USA Cerberus - Three Sites In One Honey Bees-LottoLand-Doktor Finkle http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 15:55:02 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Re: Virus Hoax In-Reply-To: <199708191941.OAA21714@mailroom.iamerica.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > Yea Right! This one may be a hoax but the one that wiped my hard drive was > not. The same one also wiped a co-worker's computer at work. Ladies and gentlemen, this is not the place to start a virus thread. What started as a well-intentioned notice now has become, with the addition of my plea, four messages dealing with viruses, with the threat of many more on the way. Let's stick to bees. Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 15:50:13 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.Com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: Virus could wipe out your computor's hard drive !!!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie Hutchings wrote: > Hi Everyone! > A dear friend in the computor industry just sent me this message, and I am passing it on to you... > If it is true I would not want anyone to lose their files. > > Debbie from Canada Look at: http://www.kumite.com/myths/ for info on viruses and their myths. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 18:21:05 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Richard H. Glassford II" Subject: bees and kids MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello, Maybe some of you could help me. I have a small orchard and a fairly large garden. I would like to have one bee hive in the back yard but I have 5 small children from the ages 4-13 that play in the back yard. You all are the experts. Many of you have had bees for a very long time. What would be your advice. My nightmare is my kids and dogs will be attacked. If stung are their drugs I should have around the house that I could give to the kids if they are allergic? I am new to the list and have enjoyed reading the posts. Thanks, Rich ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 20:21:16 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James D Satterfield Subject: Supering Top Bar Hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII I've added a web page to the tbh beekeeping website at: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm The page deals with using supers on tbh's. Works ok if your back is good and you don't mind lifting supers. On the page I have photos of a "queen excluder top bar" which works well. If tbh beekeeping interests you, and you'd like to go to the new page, use: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/super.htm if you've already visited the home page. I expect to add more photos to this page which will show manipulations of the supers and harvesting the honey. I hope your year is going well for you. Cordially yours, Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------- | James D. Satterfield | E-Mail: jsatt@gsu.edu | | 258 Ridge Pine Drive --------------------------------| | Canton, GA 30114, USA Canton is about 40 mi/64 km | | Telephone (770) 479-4784 north of Altanta, Georgia USA | | | | TBH Beekeeping Website: http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm | ---------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 18:34:00 -0600 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: bees and kids MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, it all depends on where you live and what your bees are like. I've had up to 1,000 (one thousand) hives in the home yard and all kinds of people coming and going without incident -- including kids. However, if you have read Andy's recent anecdotes, you'll know that there are some geographical regions where the gentlest bees get pretty raunchy. Allen -----Original Message----- From: Richard H. Glassford II To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Date: August 19, 1997 6:21 PM Subject: bees and kids >Hello, > >Maybe some of you could help me. I have a small orchard and a fairly >large garden. I would like to have one bee hive in the back yard but I >have 5 small children from the ages 4-13 that play in the back yard. >You all are the experts. Many of you have had bees for a very long time. > What would be your advice. My nightmare is my kids and dogs will be >attacked. If stung are their drugs I should have around the house that >I could give to the kids if they are allergic? I am new to the list >and have enjoyed reading the posts. > >Thanks, Rich ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 23:05:03 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.Com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: bees and kids MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard H. Glassford II wrote: > attacked. If stung are their drugs I should have around the house that > I could give to the kids if they are allergic? I am new to the list > and have enjoyed reading the posts. Rich - I never had anything special around the house to use in case one of my five kids (5-12) got stung. They have all been stung several times over the years without allergic reactions. About two months ago that changed when my son did have an allergic reaction. If you want to be on the safe side, get yourself an EpiPen and have it ready to use just in case. I'm still keeping bees but I'm certainly more cautious with my son now. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 02:06:26 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Sid Pullinger Subject: Black Pollen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Cannot speak for America buI I believe the only source of black pollen in= Europe is the common field poppy, papaver rhoeas. Before the days of blanket spraying this was a common and attractive weed on all arable land= but is not so common today, at least in my part of the world, southern England. Its relative, the oriental poppy, comes close to it in colour with a very dark blue. Sid P. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 23:28:10 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: bees and kids MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCACF7.9412F060" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCACF7.9412F060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rich, There are two very distinct questions embedded in your note. I've = over-simplified the questions I suppose, but here they are with my = comments: 1. Can you keep bees in such a situation as yours, and if so how? By all means! There are FAR more injuries and fatalities per = backyard=20 swimming pool than there are per backyard bee hive! I kept 2 = hives in my yard in the middle of Seattle with pets and 3 young children for = 6 years.=20 There were a few stings from stepping on bees in the grass, but = never an attack. Dogs generally stay away from the bees after 1 or 2 = stings. The keys are to keep gentle queen stock from a reputable = breeder, be gentle, pay attention to details, and use your common sense when working = the bees, and locate them in such a way that the hive entrance is = not in a place where the kids play. If you have a separately fenced area that = you can lock, that would work well (for bees or for swimming pools). =20 2. What about allergies and extreme reactions? Many, many people have local swelling reactions to bees. =20 Many many people think swelling is a precursor to a dangerous = reaction=20 and that they are in grave danger if they get stung. This is not true. 1 in 10,000 people is dangerously allergic to = bees. Some of=20 these people never swell when stung, and most people who swell = never have a dangerous reaction. If you are worried about it, find an = allergist to talk to. You might get him to perscribe an "EpiPen" for you to keep on = hand for emergencies. You can also keep non-perscription antihystamines = on hand=20 for minor reactions. And BTW, from several recent posts, it = appears that for some people, Ibuprofen may cause a bee sting reaction to be = stronger and=20 possibly more dangerous than it would be otherwise. =20 If someone does have a reaction involving something other than = local pain and swelling, such as a generalized rash, irregular or high = pulse rate, or difficulty breathing, get to the hospital fast and maybe start = thinking about a more remote location for your bees while the victim gets allergy = shots for a couple of years. =20 The probability of a severe reaction is pretty low. There are a = few participants on this list who have dealt with severe reactions = and made the necessary adjustments to keep on going. =20 The main thing is to use your common sense and keep an even = temperament=20 as you work out the details of your setup and circumstances.=20 Michael ---------- From: Richard H. Glassford II[SMTP:glassman@utah.uswest.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 1997 5:21 PM To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: bees and kids Hello, Maybe some of you could help me. I have a small orchard and a fairly large garden. I would like to have one bee hive in the back yard but I have 5 small children from the ages 4-13 that play in the back yard. You all are the experts. Many of you have had bees for a very long time. What would be your advice. My nightmare is my kids and dogs will be attacked. If stung are their drugs I should have around the house that I could give to the kids if they are allergic? I am new to the list and have enjoyed reading the posts. 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They fell off the alighting board and finally separated on the ground, at which point one of them (which looked like all my other bees) flew back into the hive. The other bee (though almost definitely a honey bee) looked quite different, in that it was very very dark (mine are quite light), and looked like its fur had been rubbed off (ie it may not have started out dark). Also, its wings were like two little bits of string and, I beleive, were being chewed during the wrestling match by the other bee. It didn't look as if the bees were trying to sting each other during the bout. Afterwards, the dark bee then just crawled around on the ground, but did not seem interested in trying to fly. Does anyone have any thoughts about what might have been going on? Also, if this is going to happen again, can anyone tell me where to get a set of rules for bee wrestling? Leo Walford One hive, London,UK ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:30:00 PDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Graham Read EOS Subject: Re: wrestling bees I'm only a newbie, however it sounds top me like what you saw was a newly hatched bee, that had not developed correctly, being removed from your hive by a healthy bee. The development of wings in the pupae is, I'm told, very susceptible to viral or mite effects. I would check the level of varroa mite infestation in the hive and provide treatment if necessary. I've seen similar bees with 'string-like' wings crawling about on the ground near my hive, they usually seem to get wrestled (&killed) by wasps. I don't have rules for inter-insect species wrestling matches either :). Graham Hampshire, UK ---------- From: owner-bee-l[SMTP:owner-bee-l@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU] Sent: 20 August 1997 10:58 To: BEE-L Subject: wrestling bees Wathcing the bees coming and going from the hive this morning, I noticed what appeared to be two bees wrestling. They fell off the alighting board and finally separated on the ground, at which point one of them (which looked like all my other bees) flew back into the hive. The other bee (though almost definitely a honey bee) looked quite different, in that it was very very dark (mine are quite light), and looked like its fur had been rubbed off (ie it may not have started out dark). Also, its wings were like two little bits of string and, I beleive, were being chewed during the wrestling match by the other bee. It didn't look as if the bees were trying to sting each other during the bout. Afterwards, the dark bee then just crawled around on the ground, but did not seem interested in trying to fly. Does anyone have any thoughts about what might have been going on? Also, if this is going to happen again, can anyone tell me where to get a set of rules for bee wrestling? Leo Walford One hive, London,UK ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 12:30:36 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Jean-Luc Widlowski Subject: G7 Global Environmental Information Locator Service (GELOS) Comments: To: CTURTLE@LISTS.UFL.EDU, BIOPI-L@LISTSERV.KSU.EDU, ENVINF-L@NIC.SURFNET.NL, TW-ENV@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU, HEALTHE@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit SORRY FOR CROSS POSTING Your possibility to use and contribute to the G7 Global Environmental Information Locator Service (GELOS) http://ceo.gelos.org We would like to bring to your attention the G7 ENRM project which forms part of the G7 Information Society project. The ENRM project aims at providing a virtual library - one component of which is a centralised clearinghouse for Environmental Information worldwide - and to promote discussion and collaboration between the Environmental Institutions of the world. In seeking to initiate the ENRM project the G7 ENRM consortium has set up a prototype information server, hosted by the European Commission's Centre for Earth Observation (CEO). This Global Environmental Information Locator Service (GELOS) is a centralised database of selected Environmental Information resources worldwide, and is open to contributions of records from any source. GELOS currently contains more than 1300 registered users, 1150 resources and nearly 100 ENRM related future events. The GELOS virtual library (http://ceo.gelos.org) allows users to register, search and access information within the GELOS virtual library but also within other remotely held databases. Information on people, events and other ENRM related resources can be found via free text, keyword and geographical search mechanisms. Registered GELOS users are given the possibility to submit a home-page but also any other information that is of relevance to the ENRM project. Most important of all: THIS SERVICE IS AND WILL REMAIN FREE OF CHARGE! In order to ensure the success of the GELOS virtual library, and of the ENRM project as a whole, we are looking for contributors of information pointers or metadata records. If you have an online database, an environmental project or event - or just a document that you wish people to know about - we would like to encourage you to register with the GELOS virtual library and submit this information. A process that does not take up too much of your time while adding a new dimension to your environmental interests. Detailed online help information is also provided. Please note also that you will always remain the owner of the information provided, you can amend, alter or even delete a GELOS record if you wish to do so. One of the goals of the GELOS server is namely to provide users, organizations and governmental bodies with a centralised platform on which to freely advertise their datasets and information. If you have already registered on the ENRM, then please take a new look at the now operational GELOS system - all your details are taken over. Otherwise if you are a newcomer then you are invited to register. For further information regarding the GELOS server, please contact the GELOS Administrator at: ENRM-Admin@jrc.it If you require more information about the G7 ENRM project, please do not hesitate to contact Larry Enomoto, project coordinator, NASA, USA at: lenomoto@nesdis.noaa.gov. -- ==================================================================== Jean-Luc Widlowski work : +39 332 78 95 49 European Community fax : +39 332 78 91 85 Joint Research Centre, project : http://enrm.ceo.org Ispra, Italy email: enrm-admin@jrc.it ==================================================================== ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 08:01:21 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: wrestling bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Leo Walford wrote: > Dear Leo: From what you describe sounds to me like one of your bees was attempting to remove a malformed bee as one would see in colonies with mites. Bees with deformities, be they body, legs or wings are usually my first tell-tale signs of mite infection. Once I see a beewith bad wings, for example, I know that I have mites in the colony. After that, a quick check of the larvae confirms the diagnosis. If you are not acquainted with the technique for checking for the presence of mites, ask one of the local beekeepers to show you how. It is very likely that you do have mites in that colony, and it is to your advantage to start treatment ASAP. Sincerely. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 08:22:02 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Trevor Weatherhead Subject: Re: pollen collecting, storage and feeding Re Betty's query about pollen trapping, storage and feeding. Firstly, why dry it before freezing? I have been quoted research that says that once you dry pollen it losses its crude protein value faster than if kept as collected. I know a lot of people including myself, who trap pollen and freeze it as collected and then use it later on for feeding back. The freezing will kill any insects including eggs from insects. For feeding, there are several ways. Firstly, as you have inner covers on your hives, the pollen can be placed on top of the inner cover and the bees will come up around it and feed. Another person I know puts plastic on top of the frames in the top box, making sure that the plastic is under the lid on the downhill side with the gap on the uphill side. This way the pollen will not roll off the plastic. The bees can come and collect it. This method was used by a beekeeper who was working bees on a summer flow that was pollen deficient and he felt the bees wintered better than if he had not fed pollen. Another way is to make patties with sugar syrup and feed it in the brood chamber. If making patties, you can add extras such as de-fatted soya flour, torula yeast or brewer's yeast to make the pollen go further. If you are drying the pollen, then grind it up and feed it in the open in a protected situation. You will be surprised how readily bees will take it. As Kangaroo Island does not have the nasties like AFB, EFB or chalkbrood, open feeding will not spread disease. The other point to consider is the protein value of the pollen you are trapping. Just because there are large quantities coming in doesn't mean it has a high protein value. A classic example of this is that bees will collect large quantities of pollen from pine trees of the Pinus sp. even though its crude protein level is only around 6%. You can tell the difference if you have ever seen bees that come off pine pollen collected from pine plantations. I accidentally did it one year, many years ago. Never again. Hope this helps. Trevor Weatherhead AUSTRALIA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 08:22:44 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: Black Pollen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sid Pullinger wrote: Dear friends: After my post to Bee-L regarding possible oringin for green or black colored pollen, a dear friend from the Canary Islands (Spain) wrote to tell me the names of three known plants in the Canary Islands which yield black pollen: 1. red poppy = Papaver roheas 2. white poppy = Papaver somniferum 3. tedera (local name) = Psoralea bituminosa In retrospect, I remember with nostalgia my trips to the country side while in residence in Spain, the amazing beautiful red color of the poppy-covered fields. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 09:01:59 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "HELP" Subject: Re: Foundation Making Machinery Fulvio I can give you prices for a foundation rolling machine. The rollers are 450mm diameter, so that you can make foundation up to 450mm wide. I warn you, they are not cheap! Electric machine - #2950 Manual machine - #1850 Let me know if you are interested in this machinery, and I shall get more information. I shall be at Apimondia in September, and shall see if any other machine is available. I shall keep in touch. Regards Matthew ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 08:02:34 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "FLORENCE COOPER, RN" Subject: Re: bees and kids My 11 year old son and I are "urban" beekeepers, i.e., we have a beehive in a corner of our backyard and our home is well within the city limits. We have had no problems with bee agression (our bees are a very gentle Italian strain). Mark and I have not been stung yet. Our dog did get stung when he swished his tail too close to the hive entrance. I do have epi-pens and benadryl on hand, just to be on the safe side. I mow right up to the front of the hive with no problems. I am careful to stay out of the field bees' flight path. This is our first year of beekeeping, and we have harvested 12 gallons of honey, which I think is pretty good for beginners. I encourage you to get a hive. Your kids would get alot out of it. In fact, my son's interest in bees is why we have a hive and he loves working the bees and extracting the honey. I hope this helps! Florence and Mark Cooper Beginning Beekeepers in Jackson, MS Subject: bees and kids To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Hello, Maybe some of you could help me. I have a small orchard and a fairly large garden. I would like to have one bee hive in the back yard but I have 5 small children from the ages 4-13 that play in the back yard. You all are the experts. Many of you have had bees for a very long time. What would be your advice. My nightmare is my kids and dogs will be attacked. If stung are their drugs I should have around the house that I could give to the kids if they are allergic? I am new to the list and have enjoyed reading the posts. Thanks, Rich ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 18:32:02 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: EASY WAY TO APPLY MO Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" For myself I don't have the time it takes to take two brood chambers every few days to apply MO to the tops of the bars in the brood chambers, so I came up with this alternative. I take some thick cloth like a towel about an inch wide and the length of the hive opening staple it so it is about half way inside the hive on the landing board and apply the MO to it. As the bees go in and out they get treated and take it into the hive. It is very fast and the results thus far are as good as applying it to the top bars. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 10:12:02 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: BEE-L on vacation! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Well, not really. Actually the University at Albany will be doing electrical maintenance this weekend and the computers will be offline from Friday evening through Sunday afternoon. Due to the nature of LISTSERV and electronic mail, any postings to BEE-L will not be lost but will be held at the "point of last failure". When the host computer (cnsibm.albany.edu) comes back online on Sunday the mail that was held will finally reach its destination and be processed as usual. However, during the outage, mail directed to BEE-L@cnsibm.albany.edu (and ALL mail directed to any_machine@albany.edu) will appear to have failed. As I write this it occurs to me that that's how things would work if all mailers are configured as are the mailers here at U of A. However, if the "point of last failure" is a site with a very conservative "retry" configuration (like give up trying to deliver undeliverable mail after 3 hours vs 3 days) then postings will be returned to sender marked as undeliverable. For this reason it would be best if all subscribers take a little BEE-L vacation this weekend and play with their bees instead (apologies to those who only work and never play with their bees). And apologies in advance for this inconvenience to all BEE-L subscribers. Respectfully submitted, Aaron Morris, IBM System Manager University at Albany ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 10:21:51 EDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Mary Jo Orzech Subject: Outage Aug 22 24 On Friday, August 22, 1997 starting at about 4 p.m., all the central computing systems at Univ. at Albany (including the one in which this listserv resides) will be powered down because of some major wiring reconfigurations being carried out here at the University at Albany. The outage expected to last until sometime Sunday, August 24. As a result, none of these systems will be receiving electronic mail during this period, nor, of course, will they be sending mail out. Because of the way electronic mail is distributed, no messages should be lost because of this hiatus, but merely delayed. In particular, list subscribers, should they post to the list during this time, may be mystified because their postings are not being distributed. Postings occurring during this period will not be distributed until sometime on Sunday. Thank you for your patience in this matter. Mary Jo Orzech Bee-l and Socinsct Listowner ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 16:31:11 +0100 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Smoking bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" This is my first year beekeeping. I have 2 hives in my back garden in a suburb of Dublin Ireland. I have just taken the honey crop from the hives. To day I decided to put the empty supers back on the hives to have the bees clean them up prior to storage. I was debating with myself whether or not I should use smoke. I followed some of the books I have read, and used smoke when I was lifting the crownboard. However I noticed that the bees were very quiet until I used the smoke, and then they got a bit aggravated. I am wondering if I am using smoke unnecessarily and maybe upsetting the bees thereby. What I am really after are good guidelines for using smoke and how much of it to use. Thanks for your comments Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland e mail: cssl@iol.ie ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:42:03 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Ted Wout Subject: bees and kids MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 "Richard H. Glassford II" wrote: >>Maybe some of you could help me. I have a small orchard and a fairly large garden. I would like to have one bee hive in the back yard but I have 5 small children from the ages 4-13 that play in the back yard. You all are the experts. Many of you have had bees for a very long time. What would be your advice. My nightmare is my kids and dogs will be attacked. If stung are their drugs I should have around the house that I could give to the kids if they are allergic? I am new to the list and have enjoyed reading the posts.<< Hello Richard, I've had two hives in my backyard for the last three summers with no majo= r problems. My kids play back there all the time but have the sense to sta= y away from the hives. The dog has ventured over there a few times and she= got stung a few times. She doesn't go near the hives now. My children have stepped on bees and gotten stung a few times. No major problems there. One thing that has been a problem is the dogs water bowl= =2E = Seems the bees really took a liking to it for a water source. It sat on the back porch right by the back door. Bees were always flying around us= and there were a few buzzing incidents but no stings. Also the dog couldn't get water out of the bowl through all the bees in it. The solution was to buy a galvanized tub and use it for a watering bowl. The= bees have their access to it and the dog can get a drink without getting stung. It sits out by the shed now out of the way. Because it holds so much water we clean it out every couple of days and that seems fine. These hives have been moved out to our bee yard in the fall each year but= get replaced with new ones in the spring. Right now I have a tree trunk with hive bodies on it waiting for bees to move up into the hive bodies a= nd a former bait hive from a bee removal operation. They'll both move in th= e fall if possible. Having the bees so close to home has peaked my childrens interest in bees= =2E = My twelve year old son is my helper and has his own suit. He's getting h= is own woodenware for Christmas and his grandparents are sending him package= bees for his birthday in march. He's ready for his own hives and they'll= probably be the backyard hives next year. My five year old son is helpin= g also. He says "I'm the smoker man". He does a great job of smoking bees= , his brother, his father and whatever else he deems needs smoke when he helps. He has a suit on order. You also may find that your children will want to help and/or interact wi= th the hives. You might just start them off on their own bee adventure. Ted Wout Red Oak, TX, USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:13:29 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Mark J. Vogel" Subject: The best time to replace queen? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have two hives with queens that are two seasons old. They seem to be doing fine, but my understanding is the queens are past their prime at two years. My question is should I replace them now with new queens with the risk of losing them if we have a severe Winter, or should I wait until Spring to replace them? Mark Vogel Rockford, MN USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 14:51:31 +0000 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Ahmed Slimi (Arabic-English-French Conference Interpeter)" Organization: ASSOCIATED INTERPRETERS Subject: Re: Supering Top Bar Hives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit James D Satterfield wrote: > I've added a web page to the tbh beekeeping > website at: > > > http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm > > The page deals with using supers on tbh's. Works > ok if your back is good > and you don't mind lifting supers. On the page I > have photos of a "queen > excluder top bar" which works well. > > If tbh beekeeping interests you, and you'd like to > go to the new page, > use: > > > http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/super.htm > > Hi Jim, I enjoyed visiting your site. I'd like to insert a good photo of a bee in my Home Page. I wonder if you have any photos you'd like to give away. If you do, please e-mail one or two, or alternatively, send me instructions on how to download such photos. Thank you in advance. Gratefully -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ahmed SLIMI - Correspondent au Maroc de WORLDVIEW Fax : (212)2 207575 Voice : (212)2 279741 Postal Address: 149 Avenue Lalla Yacout, Casablanca, Morocco CUseeme Videophone WebTalk http://members.tripod.com/~CASABLANCA_2/JOURNALIST.html E-mail: intrpret@open.net.ma -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 09:25:33 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "FULVIO SANTAMARIA J." Subject: Re: Foundation Making Machinery MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > ---------- > De: HELP[SMTP:MattAllan@aol.com] > Responder a: Discussion of Bee Biology > Enviado el: Mi=E9rcoles 20 de Agosto de 1997 8:01 AM > Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Asunto: Re: Foundation Making Machinery >=20 > Fulvio >=20 > I can give you prices for a foundation rolling machine. The rollers > are 450mm diameter, so that you can make foundation up to 450mm wide. > I warn you, they are not cheap! >=20 > Electric machine - #2950 > Manual machine - #1850 >=20 > Let me know if you are interested in this machinery, and I shall get > more > information. >=20 > I shall be at Apimondia in September, and shall see if any other > machine is available. I shall keep in touch. > Regards >=20 > Matthew >=20 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:35:00 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "FULVIO SANTAMARIA J." Subject: Re: Foundation Making Machinery MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > ---------- > De: HELP[SMTP:MattAllan@aol.com] > Responder a: Discussion of Bee Biology > Enviado el: Mi=E9rcoles 20 de Agosto de 1997 8:01 AM > Para: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Asunto: Re: Foundation Making Machinery >=20 OK, Matthew, I am interested in this machinery. If you can send me more information about, that's good. Then when you come back of Apimondia congress, I would like hear if any other machine is = available. Thanks, Bye. Fulvio ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 12:46:28 -0400 Reply-To: mrayson@apk.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Michael J. Schuerger, Sr" Organization: Rayson Computer Services Subject: Re: Ulees Gold- again MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Boy scouts do not study knot tying any more either. No respect for > practical survival skills. I wish somebody had taught me to tie knots. > > Betty McAdam > Betty that is simply not true. Knot tying is a basic skill with various requirements at different age and rank levels in both Cub and Boy Scouts. This spring I was teaching our Cubs (1st through 5th grades) at our spring campout. My group is large and active, but not unusual in this. Smart lady like you should have no trouble picking up whatever knots you want to learn. 8-). Mike (Wolf Den 2) ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 13:12:26 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Bee Works Subject: Re: Virus Hoax In-Reply-To: <19970816.003502.4374.0.awneedham@juno.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 16 Aug 97 at 0:35, Albert W Needham wrote: > I have also read many places that a simple e-mail message cannot > contain a virus. It was correct to say that these types of hoaxes > come up regularly and seem to scare the b-j's out of everyone. The old chestnut comes around again!! While I agree that a simple e-mail message cannot contain a virus, there are messages that can. For example Michael Reddell's messages always come to me in two parts. The first is an e-mail message, then part two is a binary file that my machine can't read. Not suggesting that there is anything nasty included, but there could be!! My suggestion. Add Norton Anti-Virus, this program has an auto protect feature which examines everything being downloaded to your hard drive, then warms if something is wrong. ******************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Dr, Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1 Phone/fax 705-326-7171 David Eyre, Owner. http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ******************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 13:12:28 -0500 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: David Eyre Organization: The Bee Works Subject: Re: wrestling bees In-Reply-To: <199708200953.KAA11456@thyme.sagepub.co.uk> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 20 Aug 97 at 10:58, Leo Walford wrote: > Wathcing the bees coming and going from the hive this morning, > I noticed what appeared to be two bees wrestling. They fell off > the alighting board and finally separated on the ground, at > which point one of them (which looked like all my other bees) > flew back into the hive. The other bee (though almost > definitely a honey bee) looked quite different, in that it was > very very dark (mine are quite light), and looked like its fur > had been rubbed off (ie it may not have started out dark). > Also, its wings were like two little bits of string and, I > beleive, were being chewed during the wrestling match by the > Does anyone have any thoughts about what might have been going > on? At this time of year one has to be on the lookout for robbing. This I suggest is what was seen here. The defeated one is older, darker, and less hairy, from a different hive. IMHO bees will kill deformed bees before dragging them outside, whereas robbers are sometimes allowed to get away, perhaps to warn the others? ******************************************* The Bee Works, 9 Progress Dr, Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, L3V 6H1 Phone/fax 705-326-7171 David Eyre, Owner. http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ******************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 12:44:07 +0000 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.Com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: Virus Hoax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit David Eyre wrote: > > On 16 Aug 97 at 0:35, Albert W Needham wrote: > > > I have also read many places that a simple e-mail message cannot > > contain a virus. It was correct to say that these types of hoaxes > > come up regularly and seem to scare the b-j's out of everyone. > > The old chestnut comes around again!! > While I agree that a simple e-mail message cannot contain a virus, > there are messages that can. For example Michael Reddell's messages > always come to me in two parts. The first is an e-mail message, then > part two is a binary file that my machine can't read. Not suggesting > that there is anything nasty included, but there could be!! Hi Dave - This is a good point you make. There is a difference between just email and an email with an attachment. Anyone that has their preferences set to automatically open attachments that come with an email is living dangerously. Hope you're enjoying your travels. -Barry -- Barry Birkey West Chicago, Illinois USA barry@birkey.com http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 12:43:20 -0500 Reply-To: snapshot@pbmo.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "M. C. Michel" Organization: Snap Shot Subject: Re: bees and kids MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard H. Glassford II wrote: I have a small orchard and a fairly > large garden. I would like to have one bee hive in the back yard but > I > have 5 small children from the ages 4-13 that play in the back yard. > You all are the experts. Many of you have had bees for a very long > time. > What would be your advice. My nightmare is my kids and dogs will be > attacked. If stung are their drugs I should have around the house > that > I could give to the kids if they are allergic? I am new to the list > and have enjoyed reading the posts. Rich, I have Five Boys, ages 20 months to 12 years. My apiary is adjacent to my chestnut orchard. All of the boys when not directly suited up for bee work do not ever have a problem with the bees. I would however suggest you do as we did and place a fence to keep the dogs out. As for the boys, they are allowed to enter the apiary with adult supervision. the small ones MUST hold hands with older ones. My boys working with bees know not to swat at bees when encountered in the orchard or other yard. We have not had a random sting on any of the children. As for working the bees, there have been a few stings but they wear full protection and the stings have been very few. A couple of days ago my 9 year old was forming up a ball of burr comb that we had cleaned off some of the hives and he was stung by a dead bee. It seems the bee sting was sticking out of the ball of wax and he got a rather deep sting. That aside we have had few (if any) problems. Bees and people do mix when you are properly educated. M. Chris Michel Poplar Bluff, Missouri ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 20:32:39 +0200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Max Watkins Subject: Max Watkins change of E-mail address Comments: To: wbruce@asrr.arsusda.gov, ULT405@ibm.rhrz.uni-bonn.de, trouiller@hydrus.cc.uniud.it, pkevan@uoguelph.ca, norman.carreck@bbsrc.ac.uk, norberto.milani@pldef.uniud.et, ncalderone@asrr.arsusda.gov, mnasr@evbhort.uoguelph.ca, max.watkins@chbsemx.chbs.sandoz.com, mathesona@ra.maf.govt.nz, M.Bew@CSL.gov.UK, M.A.Brown@CSL.gov.UK, lassi.kauko@knowledgelease.fi.sandoz.com, kclark@galaxy.gov.bc.ca, jonathan.richards@chbs.mhs.novartis.com, johnl@regulatory.hcc.com, ingemar.fries@entom.slu.se, IanClowes@aol.com, ian.piccione@chbs.mhs.novartis.com, hthomas@solid.phys.ethz.ch, hshimanuki@asrr.arsusda.gov, dbassand@magnet.ch, DavidD@CABISWD.MSM.CGNET.com, dave_black@tfbplc.demon.co.uk, claire@backlane.demon.co.uk, CABI-IIBC-HQ@CGNET.COM, 100573.3502@compuserve.com Dear Guys, I have a new E-mail address. Although the Sandoz.com path may still be valid for a few days longer it will definately be shut down next week. You can reach me on the following new coordinates in future: Max.Watkins@Vita.demon.co.uk Best wishes to everyone, Max Vita (Europe) Limited ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 16:27:41 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Chip McCurdy Subject: Re: Smoking bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Tom, When you smoke the bees you trick them into thinking there is a forest fire. Instinct tells the bees to save their food supply making them go inside and gorge themselves with honey. This has a "full-belly sedative" effect on the bees making them less apt to fly and even if they do, the last thing they want to do is sting you. Too much smoke, on the other hand, will just make the bees mad and scramble to get fresh air because they cant breath. So just a little at the entrance before you open the hive, then a little more across the top after will do the trick. Give them a little more when they start to cover the top bars until you are ready to put the top back on. If you want them to clean up the super frames just set it on it's side in front of the hive and it will be ready in 1 or 2 days. If you put it back on the hive they will start filling it up again. Hope this helps, Chip ---------- > From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Smoking bees > Date: Wednesday, August 20, 1997 11:31 AM > > This is my first year beekeeping. I have 2 hives in my back garden in a > suburb of Dublin Ireland. > > I have just taken the honey crop from the hives. To day I decided to put the > empty supers back on the hives to have the bees clean them up prior to storage. > > I was debating with myself whether or not I should use smoke. > > I followed some of the books I have read, and used smoke when I was lifting > the crownboard. However I noticed that the bees were very quiet until I used > the smoke, and then they got a bit aggravated. > > I am wondering if I am using smoke unnecessarily and maybe upsetting the > bees thereby. > > What I am really after are good guidelines for using smoke and how much of > it to use. > > Thanks for your comments > > Sincerely > > Tom Barrett > 49 South Park > Foxrock > Dublin 18 > Ireland > > e mail: cssl@iol.ie ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 16:34:27 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Chip McCurdy Subject: Re: The best time to replace queen? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Mark, I have always had best luck letting the hive re-queen itself. The bees will know when their queen is no longer productive and start building queen cells. ---------- > From: Mark J. Vogel > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: The best time to replace queen? > Date: Wednesday, August 20, 1997 2:13 PM > > I have two hives with queens that are two seasons old. > They seem to be doing fine, but my understanding is the > queens are past their prime at two years. My question is > should I replace them now with new queens with the risk > of losing them if we have a severe Winter, or should I > wait until Spring to replace them? > > Mark Vogel > Rockford, MN USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 17:10:19 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Re: EASY WAY TO APPLY MO MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Paul Basehore wrote: Good thinking Paul. I am sure that "united we shall conquer" Varroa. I am working on an alternate method also and soon will post details of it on Bee-L. I think that this method or innovations of it will make it cost effective for commercial beekeepers. Best regards. Dr. Rodriguez Virginia Beach, VA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 17:42:18 -0500 Reply-To: snapshot@pbmo.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "M. C. Michel" Organization: Snap Shot Subject: Re: Foundation Making Machinery MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Fulvio > I can give you prices for a foundation rolling machine. The rollers > are 450mm > diameter, so that you can make foundation up to 450mm wide. I warn > you, they > are not cheap! > Electric machine - #2950 > Manual machine - #1850 > Let me know if you are interested in this machinery, and I shall get > more > information. > Matthew I would like the info as well please..................... Chris Michel Poplar Bluff, MO ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 15:48:38 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbar Subject: HAIRLESS BEES In-Reply-To: <199708200953.KAA11456@thyme.sagepub.co.uk> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 10:58 AM 8/20/97 +0000, Leo Walford wrote: >hive. The other bee (though almost definitely a honey bee) >looked quite different, in that it was very very dark (mine are quite >light), and looked like its fur had been rubbed off (ie it may not >have started out dark). Old bees can become, like this OLd Drone, hairless but it is said the bees do ware their hair off working and in old age become very shiny black looking because of the lack of hair and if they don't die in the field the younger bees drive them out. Hairless bees can also signal a virus that some say the bees respond to by eating the hair off the bees that have it. Here in central California the bees that have been on the cotton flow can be found to have significant numbers of hairless black bees. I am sure the lack of nutritious pollen may be the cause and that these bees are deficient in their ability to resist the virus that may be in most hives. In any case if they are not moved to a good pollen source even though they look good now with lots of sealed brood, heavy frames of honey, they will pass on before spring and become a deadout. It is also a rare sight but some bees or hives of bees are born with no hair, and I have seen one hive that produced drones with no hair. It has been suggested that this is genetic. I don't know as at the time I was not wise enough to know how to ship live drones for testing and all died in shipment. > Afterwards, the dark bee then just crawled around on the ground, but > did not seem interested in trying to fly. One could assume the individual was injured, if there are many individuals then it suggests advanced viral infection. In these cases you should be able to find other symptoms such as extended abdomens, and K or misshaped wings depending on what combination of virus is around. Today most of these symptoms are found in bees that may have T mites or even Varroa mites and some associate the symptoms to these pests. IMHO, THEY ARE WRONG, as T & V mites have their own symptoms and it is sad that some insist on listing cross symptoms to puff up their own work. The truth is that bees can have at any one time many problems with many different symptoms and it shows lack of experience to mix these symptoms and is very poor science. >get a set of rules for bee wrestling? I am sure what you saw was nothing to worry about and almost an everyday occurrence in all beehives, and if it is the worse there is nothing you can do about it anyway and you will have to start a new hive next spring. ttul, the Old Drone ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:13:07 +1200 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Nick Wallingford Organization: Bay of Plenty Polytechnic Subject: What 'knot' to do... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT With a mention from someone on the list of the importance of knot tying, I dug out an article I wrote some years ago and placed it on the NZ Beekeeping pages at: http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/article2.htm Most hives/boxes in New Zealand are held down with synthetic strapping now, but keen rope users (beekeeping use only, other users will need to go to a different site...) may find it interesting... (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@wave.co.nz (/ work nw1@boppoly.ac.nz NZ Beekeeping http://www.beekeeping.co.nz ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 19:38:46 PDT Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Dean Breaux Subject: Re: Bees and Kids I would like to warn people with young children to prevent young children from being stung. I have a three year old daughter that has been stung twice and almost died from the second bee sting. I am not trying to alarm anyone only a word to the wise, be careful. The doctors told me that my daughter was exposed to the venom thru my clothes and such because I spent so much time with the bees. My oldest daughter (8yrs) has worked bees and been in the bee yards with me since she was 4 yrs old and has never had any kind of a reaction to bee stings but we always carry a epi-pen with us since my youngest had the reaction. Because of my work my youngest daughter is undergoing bee sting therapy one shot every other week. The doctors say that she should be immune in a couple of years MAYBE ???? I would suggest the bee sheriff suits and a good set of gloves for all children. Saftey First, it is scary to have your young child have a reaction, I thought I would die before we got her to the hospital. Dean Breaux Executive Vice President Hybri-Bees Inc. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 19:45:04 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Elizabeth M. Bowles" Subject: Re: wrestling bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This sounds like what my bees look like when I accidently get MO on them. They end up getting kicked out of the hive, dead or alive. > quite different, in that it was very very dark (mine are quite light), > and looked like its fur had been rubbed off (ie it may not have > started out dark). Also, its wings were like two little bits of string > and, I beleive, were being chewed during the wrestling match by the > other bee. It didn't look as if the bees were trying to sting each > other during the bout. > > Afterwards, the dark bee then just crawled around on the ground, but > did not seem interested in trying to fly. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 18:19:07 -0800 Reply-To: beeman@Alaska.NET Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tom & Carol Elliott Organization: Home Subject: Re: Smoking bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Computer Software Solutions Ltd wrote: > > I followed some of the books I have read, and used smoke when I was lifting > the crownboard. However I noticed that the bees were very quiet until I used > the smoke, and then they got a bit aggravated. > > I am wondering if I am using smoke unnecessarily and maybe upsetting the > bees thereby. Whenever you puff smoke on the bees you will notice that they make more noise. Their response is to fan the smoke out of the hive. This does not indicate that they are aggrevated. It is just the natural reaction to a foreign scent in the hive. The old explanation for the way smoke works related to fooling the bees into thinking there was a forest fire. Since bees don't seem to "think" in that way, and it is a rere bee that has experienced a forest fire and ended up in a managed hive, that is probably an old wives tale. Since much of the life of the hive is organized on scent, a strong foreign scent in the hive disrupts that organization. This masking effect is, in my opinion, a far more likely explaination of the impact of smoke on a hive. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Chugiak, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@alaska.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 23:40:19 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "MR WILLIAM L HUGHES JR." Subject: Fall splits After reading a few articles about over wintering splits I am thinking about making some. Is this feasible and has any one had any experience doing it. Bill Hughes Bent Holly Farms Brighton, Tennessee USA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 00:40:59 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: pollination info In a message dated 97-08-14 15:12:41 EDT, you write: << I was just wondering if there are any of big time pollinators here. My sister is writing a paper about pollination. She is the Southeastern Wisconsin Honey Queen. We are only a small operation with only about 100 hives, so we don't do much with pollination. If you have any info Please email it to me. >> Have you been by our web page? Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:27:50 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: pollination info MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCADB8.4CF2CEA0" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCADB8.4CF2CEA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Definitely check out Dave and Janice's site. When I saw it I just put a = pointer to it on my site (http://www.hotcity.com/~mwr) and didn't bother = to discuss pollen in detail. They said everything I would have and = more, and I couldn't have improved on it. A very nice treatment of = pollination and related topics. Michael ---------- From: David Green[SMTP:Pollinator@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 1997 9:40 PM To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: Re: pollination info In a message dated 97-08-14 15:12:41 EDT, you write: << I was just wondering if there are any of big time pollinators here. = My sister is writing a paper about pollination. She is the Southeastern Wisconsin Honey Queen. We are only a small operation with only about = 100 hives, so we don't do much with pollination. If you have any info = Please email it to me. >> Have you been by our web page? Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCADB8.4CF2CEA0 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 eJ8+IjUFAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAENgAQAAgAAAAIAAgABBJAG ADABAAABAAAADAAAAAMAADADAAAACwAPDgAAAAACAf8PAQAAAE8AAAAAAAAAgSsfpL6jEBmdbgDd AQ9UAgAAAABEaXNjdXNzaW9uIG9mIEJlZSBCaW9sb2d5AFNNVFAAQkVFLUxAQ05TSUJNLkFMQkFO WS5FRFUAAB4AAjABAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgADMAEAAAAYAAAAQkVFLUxAQ05TSUJNLkFMQkFO WS5FRFUAAwAVDAEAAAADAP4PBgAAAB4AATABAAAAHAAAACdEaXNjdXNzaW9uIG9mIEJlZSBCaW9s b2d5JwACAQswAQAAAB0AAABTTVRQOkJFRS1MQENOU0lCTS5BTEJBTlkuRURVAAAAAAMAADkAAAAA CwBAOgEAAAACAfYPAQAAAAQAAAAAAAADBjUBCIAHABgAAABJUE0uTWljcm9zb2Z0IE1haWwuTm90 ZQAxCAEEgAEAFQAAAFJFOiBwb2xsaW5hdGlvbiBpbmZvAGYHAQWAAwAOAAAAzQcIABQAFgAbADIA AwBWAQEggAMADgAAAM0HCAAUABYAFgAMAAMAKwEBCYABACEAAAA4REM2MkUwOEEwMTlEMTExQTI1 ODQwM0EwMkMxMDYyNwDjBgEDkAYAfAUAABIAAAALACMAAAAAAAMAJgAAAAAACwApAAAAAAADADYA AAAAAEAAOQCgZ6b38q28AR4AcAABAAAAFQAAAFJFOiBwb2xsaW5hdGlvbiBpbmZvAAAAAAIBcQAB AAAAFgAAAAG8rfL3nQguxo4ZoBHRolhAOgLBBicAAB4AHgwBAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgAfDAEA AAAQAAAAbXdyQGhvdGNpdHkuY29tAAMABhBFtdX2AwAHEB0DAAAeAAgQAQAAAGUAAABERUZJTklU RUxZQ0hFQ0tPVVREQVZFQU5ESkFOSUNFU1NJVEVXSEVOSVNBV0lUSUpVU1RQVVRBUE9JTlRFUlRP SVRPTk1ZU0lURShIVFRQOi8vV1dXSE9UQ0lUWUNPTS9NV1IpAAAAAAIBCRABAAAABgQAAAIEAACt BgAATFpGdTR8FbL/AAoBDwIVAqgF6wKDAFAC8gkCAGNoCsBzZXQyNwYABsMCgzIDxQIAcHJCcRHi c3RlbQKDM3cC5AcTAoB9CoAIzwnZO/EWDzI1NQKACoENsQtg4G5nMTAzFFALChRRZQvyYwBAIEQN wAuAaTET0Gx5IBFwBZBrIIMIYAVARGF2ZSAAcAhkIEoAcGljZSeHBCAAkBPQLiAgVxuwdQOgSR1Q YQfgG0AeEWpSdRPAIHAcEWEfEG9nC4AT0AXAdG8ecgIgIEZtG4AdYiAoaAJAcBA6Ly93IZAuaG8k dGMbQHkuBaBtLyB+bXdyKRyDZGnYZG4nBUAG4HQbsB/jnyMwBPAe4AQgH4BsbB3xrwuAIyARwAtw bB2hVBuwlyChC3AcsGUcYHJ5I8DVC4BnHhF3CGBsHLARgPccZQRgFhAsHIMeIAWgJ4HvI2Inwwdw E1BvHGAcsCBh0xtAHaFBICaiIBzyH/C5FhBhdAeAAjAb8GYks/sLgCvwaSBhHJIWEAtgE9BLHLAg AHAdAHMuCoVNPx0AEYAbYAqFCosswDE4gjAC0WktMTQ0DfDnDNAxQwtZMTYKoANgE9D6YwVALTNn CocyGwwwMub6RgNhOjRuMuYMghwyJmECRwnSW1NNVFA6ZlAspQWwQGEG8CJCXb80DzUdBmACMDZP N1tXCYAibgeQZGF5KJBBdQ5nHuIB0CiQMTk5N4ggOToxYCBQTTpvGTUdVG88rzdbQkVFAC1MQENO U0lCAE0uQUxCQU5ZMC5FRFVArzt+dWLOajMhQs83W1JlSIAsms8LgAIQL28wczM2MecaRb0y5kkt MSCAB5AeQGcccMc+4C3SQAAtMDgxMT/QcDU6MTJAQBrQReBUvSiQeQhgJ1AFEBPQOkus9Dw8JzJh BCAe0ydgHKB/BnEnEQaQH/Aj0RxxVKJu8xuALGFiaScgLQAHgCyHzwWwBCBUgh2hTXkKhR1RPxPB BcAEAFFzJwIfYWFw3x/RAaAcAiyZHaFTG7BYQr8jwQYAHAEbsFMgH8FuV2beVyRRAiAAkAOgSAIg JhH+UQpQCfAdolS0AiAbcR9g/nMAwCTgG/BZQSz0A/AjwF9elVmTGTAKdiewaRxgc/UokHMgEHdP UQIgI3FikN0ggHURcGAEWexJLHBRQr8nxRuAS2JAcCTwUyBlV2Y/E+AlkR5yIAEHgB2gPj7tS6xI HFJRQmIJ4SOQVTHfCHBiUTgACrBPQD9LrDk/vm0dsB2wHEM4gx2wSBPgBycBUxA/AVNDIFVT3kEK hSXxa4ctElMdED6wf2yyJ7AhNB7gBJAuYDnlL/dWGHISamIxIcAsAC9dTB8vTS8y9QqFFTEAd8AA AAMAEBAAAAAAAwAREAAAAABAAAcwQJoMLvKtvAFAAAgwQJoMLvKtvAEeAD0AAQAAAAUAAABSRTog AAAAAO2U ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCADB8.4CF2CEA0-- ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 22:50:53 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Michael Reddell Subject: Re: The best time to replace queen? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- =_NextPart_000_01BCADBB.8984C280" ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCADBB.8984C280 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I prefer to requeen this time of year (late summer to early fall). It = allows the new queen to get settled in and ready to go in the spring. = That way you don't have to worry about whether or not she will be up to = the job of spring buildup. If you buy queens from a known breeder whose = stock is selected for traits you like, such as gentleness, you will have = a known quantity in the spring. =20 If you wait you may have a failing queen in the spring and no way to = replace her until the breeders start shipping in April. I suppose this = is more of a problem for me in California than it would be for you in = Minnesota, where spring doesn't start so early. (Spring for me is = February.) I don't like to let the bees make their own queens because they tend to = get a little too defensive after a couple of generations in my = experience. Another advantage of summer/fall requeening is that the queens are less = expensive and often better mated than the spring queens. =20 Michael ---------- From: Mark J. Vogel[SMTP:mjv@cnt.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 1997 11:13 AM To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: The best time to replace queen? I have two hives with queens that are two seasons old. They seem to be doing fine, but my understanding is the queens are past their prime at two years. My question is should I replace them now with new queens with the risk of losing them if we have a severe Winter, or should I wait until Spring to replace them? 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First off, queens are less expensive and readily available in the fall. Second, if for some reason the new queen is rejected there is still time for another try prior to the onset of winter. Third, a new queen in the fall means your new queen will be the one laying in January to start the 1998 build up. You'll get a jump start on '98 by requeening now. Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:40:07 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: James P Parkman Subject: Re: The best time to replace queen? In-Reply-To: <01BCADBB.897B9AC0@C3.hotcity.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Does anyone have any ideas about how to reduce moisture content of honey after it has been extracted? Our moisture content is around 19.0-19.5%. We have a 40 pt. dehumidifier, but moisture reduction is extremely slow. Regards, Pat Parkman Univ. or Tennessee, Knoxville ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 07:25:53 -0600 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Reducing Moisture in Honey In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Does anyone have any ideas about how to reduce moisture content of honey > after it has been extracted? Our moisture content is around 19.0-19.5%. > We have a 40 pt. dehumidifier, but moisture reduction is extremely slow. Best solutions: (That come quickly to mind) 1. Blend with low moisture honey 2. Pasteurize the honey so it will keep. 3. Make mead 4. Store in a freezer until needed or 5. Sell to a customer who is prepared to do one or all the above in a short timeframe ( monitor for signs of fermentation meanwhile) Allen ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 11:34:45 EDT Reply-To: twelsh@evbhort.uoguelph.ca Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Tillie Welsh Organization: Environ. Biology & Horticulture Subject: bLACK POLLEN Black, dark green pollen comes from the purple loosestrife, if you crush one pollen grain on white paper you will see that is really a dark green color. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 14:20:19 -0400 Reply-To: sblanchard@merx.cebra.com Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Stiphane Blanchard Organization: Cebra Inc. Subject: Wintering Requirement MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey Bee-listers, I was reading about the requirements for wintering. In the book I have, it says that they'll need plenty of pollen and that it should be strategically placed so it'll be availaible through the winter. My questions are, how much is plenty and what kind of strategy one should use so that it is availaible to my beautiful bees. Thanks in advance ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 11:44:54 -0500 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Paul Basehore Subject: Re: Smoking bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >I was debating with myself whether or not I should use smoke. > I haven't used smoke in years just have a good bee suit and if you prefer gloves. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:08:01 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Lars Chittka Subject: address change Comments: To: 102123.3160@compuserve.com Comments: cc: erhard.maier@biologie.uni-regensburg.de, vb10006@cus.cam.ac.uk, buchmann@ccit.arizona.edu, t-fuku@cc.miyakyo-u.ac.jp, kjones@wellesley.edu, menzel@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, jankunze@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, thomas.carew@yale.edu, smbhdmh@ucl.ac.uk, robbi@.zedat.fu-berlin.de, helver@zoo2-pc.biologie.uni-erlangen.d400.de, vorobyev@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, arroyo@cica.es, biocyb@uni-tuebingen.de, randy@cognet.ucla.edu, timothy.goldsmith@yale.edu, johns@usp.br, zeil@rsbs.anu.edu.au, i.cuthill@bristol.ac.uk, di5@umail.umd.edu, jm123@uk.ac.cam.phx, d.osorio@sussex.ac.uk, unitz@t-online.de, unitz@mac-ev.de, klaus.lunau@biologie.uni-regensburg.de, sandoval@lifesci.ucsb.edu, a.k.turner@sussex.ac.uk, clcraig@minerva.cis.yale.edu, cronin@umbc7.umbc.edu, romo1434@mailszrz.zrz.tu-berlin.de, coi01@keele.ac.uk, s.m.wuerger@keele.ac.uk, pkevan@.uoguelph.ca, socinsct@uacsc2.albany.edu, emil.menzel@sunysb.edu, wenner@lifesci.lscf.ucsb.edu, polpal-l@uoguelph.ca, jacobs@psych.ucsb.edu, batya@vms.huji.ac.il, batya@hujivms.ALBANY.EDU, pkaiser@vm1.yorku.ca, dukas@ubc.bcu.ca, NWILLIAM@life.bio.sunysb.edu, hcbio028@email.csun.edu, rabi306@uvm.haifa.ac.il, kristina.clenaghan@sunysb.edu, bgydgt@west-01.novell.leeds.ac.uk, niko@mpik-tueb.mpg.de, dventura@usp.br, rwthorp@ucdavis.edu, nottebo@rockvax.rockefeller.edu, i-timokhina@ski.mskcc.org, greggers@castor.zedat.fu-berlin.de, ej_melendez@cuhac.upr.clu.edu, j_ackerman@upr1.upr.clu.edu, harald.e.esch.1@nd.edu, joerges@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, fstollni@nsf.gov, oliver.hammerstein@iib3.dfg.d400.de, tim_falkenhagen@tanagraphics.com, rstevenson@umbsky.cc.umb.edu, agumber@ibm.net, hucho@csd.uwm.edu, achittka@mail.med.cornell.edu, biermann@life.bio.sunysb.edu, jt@life.bio.sunysb.edu, mcpheron@nature.berkeley.edu, jmfdcama@usp.br, ninamd@.zedat.fu-berlin.de, fhell@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, gerber@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, mhammer@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, kwadding@fig.cox.miami.edu, tegtmeier@springer.de, miriam@zool.unizh.ch, chrisz@berlin.snafu.de, t.s.collett@sussex.ac.uk, schistos@ag.arizona.edu, teese@life.bio.sunysb.edu, sl104@.cam.ac.uk, j.c.partridge@bris.ac.uk, cr108@mercury.anglia.ac.uk, nevr2134@mailszrz.zrz.tu-berlin.de, rbarfiel@nsf.gov, ciz48170@centum.utulsa.edu, a.hildrew@qmw.ac.uk, ltm@cns.nyu.edu, mb135@cam.ac.uk, jgurvtch@life.bio.sunysb.edu, psaal@ccmail.sunysb.edu, palacios@uv.cl, soro@life.bio.sunysb.edu, CHITTKA@life.bio.sunysb.edu, andy.bennett@bris.ac.uk, akb@brownvm.brown.edu, john.endler@jcu.edu.au, biol_psh@centum.utulsa.edu, ackerman@upracd.upr.clu.edu, peter@nauvax.ucc.nau.edu, wiegmann@indiana.edu, nedlin@neptune.nrl.navy.mil, weissm@gusun.georgetown.edu, bsmith@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu, hendrik_rosenboom@mckinsey.com, shafir.1@osu.edu, waser@ucrac1.ucr.edu, cmora@life.bio.sunysb.edu, kstudholme@brain.bio.sunysb.edu, lhkw2@cam.ac.uk, pflueger@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, bert.hoelldobler@biozentrum.uni-wuerzburg.de, msmangel@ucdavis.edu, pjh@oup_usa.org, windisch@i3.dfg.d400.de, windisch@dfg.d400.de, verkerk@koppert.com, vk@socium.usr.pu.ru, sergei.boitsov@unilever.com, biol_hw@centum.utulsa.edu, personal@zv.uni-wuerzburg.de, joerg.chittka@ikb.de, scottarm@alfa.itea.ntnu.no, cvnet@skivs.ski.org, frison@hochschulverband.de, ichase@ccvm.sunysb.edu, laserpages@netmedia.net.il, Fangorn4@aol.com, giurfa@neuro.biologie.fu-berlin.de, agumbert@komma.fddi2.fu-berlin.de, giurfa@inssoc.uba.ar Dear friends, I'm going east. The new address, as of September 1, is Lars Chittka Theodor-Boveri-Institut Am Hubland 97074 Wuerzburg Germany I don't have new email, fax, or tel.# yet (will let you know as soon as I get there), but please note that this email account (lchittka@aol.com) will discontinue working immediately! In the intermediate period, before I have a new account in the old world, please use chittka@life.bio.sunysb.edu. That account should work for a few more months. All the best wishes, Lars ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:49:15 -0500 Reply-To: neonmarv@iso.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Marvin Walker Subject: REPLACING QUEENS MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just got through replacing 3 queens. It would have been much easier if they were marked. If you are planning on replacing queens after 2 years, you might want to think about getting them marked. I would have saved about 4 hours, if the old ones were marked. Hard to find queen in 50,000 bees. Marvin Walker Springdale, Arkansas --=20 MZ=90 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:51:10 -0400 Reply-To: "Glen B. Glater" Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Glen B. Glater" Subject: Honey weight revisited... I know that this was discussed already, but... How much does a gallon of honey weigh? I know that it depends on the type, but on average? Email directly to me, please. Thanks. --glen (glen@writeme.com) ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 17:08:42 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbar Subject: Re: Wintering Requirement Comments: To: sblanchard@merx.cebra.com In-Reply-To: <33FB3563.5791@merx.cebra.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 02:20 PM 8/20/97 -0400, Stiphane Blanchard wrote: >have, it says that they'll need plenty of pollen and that it should be >strategically placed so it'll be availaible through the winter. My >questions are, how much is plenty and what kind of strategy one should >use so that it is availaible to my beautiful bees. One frame of pollen for one frame of brood, or one pound of pollen for one pound of bees. The norm but not a rule as different pollen gives different results. As a "rule" the best bee food is a mixture of pollens, and few single source pollen are in themselves a complete diet for bees. (None that I can think of that most have access to, and quite a few that can give negative brood rearing results.) For most the above brings understanding why the most the average person can do is supplement the bees diet with pollen or other proteins as the amounts needed are so large and the labor to feed bees also must be considered. It is possible but not practical to take just a few pounds of bees and a queen and without any food coming in naturally to rear very large and healthy hives, I have done this, but if in the end you need an economical return on time and labor it is doubtful. One lesson all learn is that bees have nasty habits of eating back on brood if the food intake falls below a certain level, so in feeding bees if you are one day late you can be set back weeks. In feeding proteins to bees they must be present in the right place in the hive at all times if you want continued brood rearing and the best use of materials. The only thing that bees can use other then pollen is yeast, food grade. Feed grade is cheaper but much is wasted because food grade is the right micron size for bees to ingest. All other additives beekeepers put in diets are only interesting as they disappear without harmful effects but have little to do with the nutrition of bees, other then adding the sugar (HFC) to make a easy to handle pattie and one that the bees will be attracted to. The higher the sugar content the faster they will eat the diet. Other observations, when pollen builds up in the hive more time then not it indicates a less nutritious pollen that slows down brood rearing, but in the fall as the days shorten, temperatures fall, it is normal for the bees to cut back on the use of pollen and some buildup of reserves would be normal. So much talk of oils, (lipids), and the such for mite suppression it is a wonder that someone has not looked at those natural oils found in pollens, such as corn, safflower, and many others from the health view of those lucky hives. Would not surprise me to find that bees in some areas of the world that do not have mite or reduced mite problems have an abundance of oil rich proteins available naturally. (Don't get all bothered about it, just a passing of the gass in the wind.)} Translation I would not get my hopes up as little has been done to study the areas that have varroa and report no problems because more then likely the loss from varroa is a combination of problems, and some areas may be most fortunate in not having the right combination to cause loss. (Like one or more common virus.) In any case corn oils are used to suppress mite populations by many beekeepers. IMHO, the OLd Drone ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 20:52:35 -0400 Reply-To: dronebee@norfolk.infi.net Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "\\Dr. Pedro P. Rodriguez" Organization: Independent non-profit research Subject: Bee louse and Varroa mites MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I am attempting to transfer two images that were sent to me by a > friend (because I do not have a scanner) as promised previously. I > hope that this works. Best regardsDr. Rodriguez > > ------------------------- > ---Image--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > [Image] [] ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:21:11 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "W. G. Miller" Subject: Re: Wintering Requirement It's time for my annual plea that people who ask questions about wintering please include their geographic location with their posts. What Allen Dick needs to do to overwinter colonies in Alberta would strike Maryland beekeepers as overkill, and I doubt that a colony that is properly prepared for winter by Maryland standards would successfully overwinter in Alberta. W. G. Miller Gaithersburg, MD ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 23:23:11 -0400 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "W. G. Miller" Subject: Re: The best time to replace queen? In Maryland, we advocate requeening in early September. We still have about 1 1/2 month of brood rearing time left then, so the new queen has plenty of time to get established. We also advocate the "nuc" method of requeening (see Geroge Imirie's article "Almost Foolproof Requeening" in the Brushy Mountain catalog). With the "nuc" method, you are running 2 queens at once for about 2 weeks, so you get double the brood production. And, if the new queen doesn't take, the old queen will still be available to keep the colony going. And finally, we advocate replacing two year old queens. A queen that old is almost certainly past her prime, and very likely to swarm next Spring. W. G. Miller Gaithersburg, MD ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 20:50:16 -0700 Reply-To: Discussion of Bee Biology Sender: Discussion of Bee Biology From: "Andy Nachbaur (by way of Andy Nachbar )" Subject: Weevils go `haywire' in U.S. biocontrol project (8/21/1997) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable http://www.sjmercury.com/news/breaking/docs/002463.htm
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---------- <=20 Posted at 4:19 p.m. PDT Thursday, August 21, 1997 =20 Weevils go `haywire' in U.S. biocontrol project WASHINGTON (Reuters) - A weevil introduced in North America to control rampaging European thistles itself went haywire and started preying on native plants, scientists reported Thursday. They said the case illustrated the dangers of using living organisms to control pests, and recommended that U.S. authorities be more careful about what they let into the country. European milk thistle and other, similar, species had long been the bane of farmers and ranchers. ``It is just a hideous weed,'' said Don Strong, a professor of biology at the University of California at Davis. ``It renders rangeland and agricultural land unusable because these thistles are so spiky and noxious that cattle can't eat them. They are very aggressive colonizers of open ground.'' So in the late 1960s, experts came up with what seemed like a good idea -- introduce something from the thistles' native land that eats them. Enter the weevil Rhinocyllus conicus. But the weevil liked all kinds of thistles, and started eating native North American species, Svata Louda at the University of Nebraska and colleagues at the University of Tennessee reported in the journal Science. ``Weevils significantly reduced the seed production of native thistle flowerheads,'' they wrote. Writing a commentary on the findings, Strong called the weevil scheme ``a biocontrol project gone haywire.'' He said the weevil really did prefer the European thistles. ``But it builds up populations on those and it goes over and clobbers the natives,'' he said in a telephone interview. ``The fear is that it is evolving to specialize on the natives.'' Strong and Louda's team both said the case taught a serious lesson about the dangers of importing alien species. Scientists will have to check more closely on what the controllers really eat, how far they will spread and other possible ecological effects, they said. ``The potential risks to both biodiversity and ecological stability are high when a mistake occurs,'' Louda wrote. Strong noted that public concerns about such issues were much stronger elsewhere. ``Europe and Australia and New Zealand are way ahead of us on this,'' he said. ``I think it's time for an open public discussion on biological control. We've got funky regulations in the United States and a poorly developed apparatus for contemplation of what organisms we introduce for biological control.'' Free markets made this difficult, Strong added. ``But this is an issue about free markets that we have to address.'' =20 ---------- | <Mercury Center Home | <Index | <Feedback | =A91996-7 Mercury Center. The information you receive on-line from Mercury Center is protected by the copyright laws of the United States. The copyright laws prohibit any copying, redistributing, retransmitting, or repurposing of any copyright-protected material.