========================================================================= Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 20:38:50 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Frank Subject: extractors Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Is there a "consumers guide" for extractors? I'd like some opinions/experience --privately, off list--about some of the smaller, radial types such as Dadant's Ranger or the Italian ones listed in some of the catalogs which are available in eastern USA. I've got a Little Wonder now and would like stop flipping frames (and hand cranking). Since I have a "temporary" honey house (kitchen) I don't want to wrestle with a 200 pounder either. Thanks Bill Frank billsbz@exis.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 07:36:09 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 18:03:53 -0700 (PDT) From: MK Lee Subject: Need advice on how to keep wild bees from entering hive To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Greetings, I am very new in this field, oh, by the way, I live in Malaysia, I don't think there are many of us in Malaysia who keep bees. I need advice on the above matter, cause these wild bees are causing a lot of problems now. Thanks in advance for any helpful advice. Regards, MK ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 22:52:22 +0900 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: roaches MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Where are you located? >What kind of roaches? >What's the weather like? > >FWIW, I'm in Texas, and don't yet own bees, but when dry summer weather >comes, wood roaches migrate to places where they can find shelter and >moisture. They are large, reddish-to-dark-brown and they fly. During dry >spells they'll come into the house, but normally they'd rather be in a nice >moist rotten log outdoors. Down in Oz we have two types of cockroach (that I recognize anyway). One is the house cockroach which also occasionally turns up in the honey shed but the one I encounter in the hives is much larger with clearly segmented back and a very dark brown. My research indicates that this is known in Australia as the American cockroach (right or wrong?) Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island J.H. & E. McAdam Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gordon Albright Subject: Re: extractors Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit To Bill Frank: I just wanted to recommend the "Maxant" brand of extractor. It is made in Ayer MA. USA. They have a very wide variety of sizes to choose from. I suggest you look at one of the small radial types which will eliminate the need of flipping the frames you spoke of. I purchased a ten frame radial last year and it is fantastic. Very nice stainless steel construction, well made. I don't have the address or phone # with me at this moment. You can call for information in the 978 area code, (which is where Ayer MA is) or look in either American Beekeeping Journal or Bee Culture where they place frequent ads. Or last but not least maybe someone else on the list has the number and address and will post it for you. Gordon Albright ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 10:12:30 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Bonney Subject: Re: extractors MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Maxant Industries can be reached at P O Box 454G Ayer MA 01432 978 772-0576 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:43:06 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gordon Scott Subject: Basingstoke Newsletter. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII The Association's newsletter is now on the web site: http://www.apis.demon.co.uk/beekeeping/ Gordon -- Gordon Scott gordon@apis.demon.co.uk gordon@multitone.co.uk (work) Gordon's Apis Home Page Beekeeper; Kendo 3rd Dan, retd :-(; Sometime sailor. Hampshire, England. Linux -- Because I like to *get* there today. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 13:37:39 -0400 Reply-To: gmaloney@gis.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: gmaloney Subject: Alaska MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Do we have someone from Alaska who is familiar with the mite problem there?. Someone is telling me that they do not have mites in Alaska. Also how do the bee's make out wintering over? ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 13:41:07 -0400 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Plastic frames and etc. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit About seven years ago I bought some full cell Pierco frames (about 20) to test them out. They work fine, the bees use them over and over just like natural comb, and they are extremely easy to uncap either manually or with an uncapping machine - just scrape right down to the cell tops! However, as with all things, there are a couple of problems: 1) These frames are heavy compared to wood or plastic foundation frames. An empty super feels like it has quite a bit of honey in it already. 2) In a poor honey flow, the bees sometimes don't fill the cell up to the top. Then when they put a capping on top of what they filled, it is almost impossible to uncap without punching a hole in each and every sunken cell. That sure takes time, even using a cappings scratcher to punch a line of cells at once! Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 14:35:41 -0400 Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Palmer Organization: French Hill Apiaries Subject: Re: Ants MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Enough is enough! Comet, Borax, cyannide, grease!! To get rid of ants? How about keeping strong colonies, and leaving the inner cover hole open. Works fine for me. Really! Cyannide for ants? JCooper wrote: > I have been able to get rid of ants by sprinkling Comet scouring powder > on top of the inner cover. > > Don't know if any similar products would work to the same effect. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:49:01 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Slade Subject: mites Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Andy Nachbaur asks for more details on when not to treat for Varroa. The information is based on a study in the UK so it may not relate directly to conditions elsewhere. I am reluctant to debase a useful scientific study by cherry picking from the results and readers are recommended to obtain the full document from the Central Science Laboratory if they are interested. However, a table in the pamphlet indicates the estimated mite population level below which no control measures are needed during the current year but monitoring must be undertaken the following year. January to May - below 170; June below 300; July below 500; August below 1000; September below 2000; October to December below 2500. I think it might be helpful if US State Apiarists contacted Dr Martin to discover to what degree the model can be adapted to local conditions. Tel UK 01904 462510 Fax 01904 462240. He probably has an e.mail address but I don't know it. There probably is a way of finding it but I am too much of technophobe to have been able to find out how. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 17:48:59 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Slade Subject: Varroa in Ireland Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit How are the authorities to find all the hives in what they assume to be the affected area. Are beekeepers registered in Ireland? I bet that at this moment apiaries are being split up and hives disperse to odd corners or out of the danger area. The Irish authorities are choosing the most effective way of infesting the whole island as rapidly as possible. Maybe this is their objective. It simplifies matters. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 16:15:35 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Re: Ants MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Enough is enough! Comet, Borax, cyannide, grease!! To get rid of ants? How >about keeping strong colonies, and leaving the inner cover hole open. Works >fine for me. Really! Cyannide for ants? Actually, I was being facetious when I mentioned cyanide. I guess my point was lost on some. Ian Watson realtor@niagara.com real estate agent gardener baritone beekeeper---> 13 colonies ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 07:31:46 +0000 Reply-To: aweinert@tpgi.com.au Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: Authenticated sender is From: aweinert Subject: hive materials other than wood MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I have seveal full depth boxes that are starting to rot. (I am located in Far North Queensland, Australia) These boxes were painted only, I have been told that soaking them in copper Napthanate will preserve them for many years but I am not sure how to do this just yet, I am sure it is not hard. I just have to get the material and a bath for them. I have seen articles on polystyrene hives and there were people using plastic hives some years ago but these seem to have faded into the distant past. I am interested in any updates on hive material aother than wood thanks Andrew Weinert Atherton, Tropical North Queensland Australia 17.17 Degrees South, 145.30 Degrees East ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 01:12:12 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Sid Pullinger Subject: Varroa in Ireland MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Here we go again. The extract is from a correspondent in Ireland. <<<<<>>>>>> Don't government departments ever learn? This policy of destruction was tried out over the years in country after country. All in vain. Surely = by now everyone, even non-beekeepers in ministries, knows that with our present knowledge varroa cannot be eliminated, only controlled. 100 colonies, 4,000,000 bees, 2,000,000 foragers currently pollinating. = What a waste if destruction goes ahead. Where will it end? If the report= is true the officials who decreed this order need to be severely stung. = = With all the knowledge gained over the years Irish and Scottish beekeeper= s should have no difficulty in coming to terms with the mite. S= id P. Five years with varroa and still keeping strong colonies and getting plenty of honey when our climate permits. = ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 10:38:02 BST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: qub Subject: Re: Varroa in Ireland news clipping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII For those who are interested below is a copy of the Irish times article: Nine bean rows will I have there, and a hive for the honey bee, was William Butler Yeats's declared ambition for the Lake Isle of Innisfree. And live alone in the bee-loud glade. But the bee-loud glades will be silent in the poet's native county following a decision by the Department of Agriculture to embark on the most ambitious slaughter policy since the foundation of the State, the destruction of six million bees in south Co Sligo. The Department decided on this drastic plan of action last night following a meeting with the Federation of Irish Beekeepers to discuss the control of the disease, varroasis, which has been found in Sligo for the first time in Irish bee hives. The disease, caused by a parasitic mite, varroa jacobsoni, poses no risk to human health but destroys honey bees by feeding on their blood. The Department has a traditional policy of slaughter to control diseases in animals and birds and it has slaughtered millions of cattle to eradicate bovine TB and thousands to control BSE. A Department spokesman said yesterday that, following a meeting with the federation, a decision had been taken to destroy the infected bees. He said he understood nearly a dozen beekeepers were involved, and an estimated 100 hives would be wiped out in the operation. The spokesman could not specify how south Sligo would be turned into a bee-silent glade, but a prominent beekeeper said it was likely the hives would be treated with chemicals or burned. "It is not an easy job to do," said Mr John Donoghue, the incoming president of the federation. "You have to wait at this time of year until around 11 p.m. when all the bees come home and then block the exit to the hive and either kill them with chemicals or burn the hives." He said the news would "send shivers up the spine of every beekeeper in Ireland", but he accepted that this might have to happen because of the destruction caused by the disease. "The killing of the bees may not prevent the spread of the disease because wild bees carry the mite as well, and there is no way of getting rid of every wild bee in Sligo. "The fact that the Department has decided to destroy the hives may mean that the problem is localised, and that is good news." Philip ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 08:43:49 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rod Billett Subject: Re: hive materials other than wood Comments: cc: beeman@algonet.se Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: multipart/mixed; Boundary="0__=Zi3oMM2U4nGl0L40GueblAGN3fiCxHO0bLEpxCa8QjePv1yVG0iYFpfT" --0__=Zi3oMM2U4nGl0L40GueblAGN3fiCxHO0bLEpxCa8QjePv1yVG0iYFpfT Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Disposition: inline Andrew, Your post asked for more information on hive products made from materials other than wood. My only experience is with Wooden Hive materials, but on the Web I ran across Per-Olof Gustafssons' (Of Sweden), interesting web page: http://www.algonet.se/~beeman/ If you go to this web site, then click on the 'How it all started' button. Within the text of the page, you will see a link to Styrofoam. Apparently they are High Density Styrofoam, and from the pictures on his web site, it looks like he uses a lot of them. (But I dont think they are rodent proof - Check out the picture of the badger Damage to a hive) The Manufacturer is LP:s Biodling Torstensbyn 14 S-661 94 S --0__=Zi3oMM2U4nGl0L40GueblAGN3fiCxHO0bLEpxCa8QjePv1yVG0iYFpfT Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable =E4ffle Sweden His web page is pretty interesting. I'd recommend surfing through his pages. Hope this Helps Rod Billett Lexington, SC USA = --0__=Zi3oMM2U4nGl0L40GueblAGN3fiCxHO0bLEpxCa8QjePv1yVG0iYFpfT-- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 16:51:55 +0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: nadir Subject: beeswax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=KOI8-R Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Sirs. We are a small beekeeping company from Russia. We would be very much obliged to you if you could help us with any kind of information about companies that may need beeswax. We would also appreciate it if you could help us to find out retail and wholesale prices on beeswax on the market of your country. We know that beeswax is used for manufacturing a lot of products, but we are not sure we know them all. Could you, please, give us more detailed information about it? Thank you for your help, please feel always welcome to contact us if you need any kind of information about Russian beekeepers. We'll be happy to help you. Awaiting your soon reply. Best regards: Nadir Zagidullin. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 17:39:36 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Ralston Subject: Re: slatted racks revisited In-Reply-To: <199806260140.VAA22852@jade.cis.pitt.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi all, I'd like to thank everyone for the replies concerning the use of slatted racks. I plan to start using them. A few people asked why I have only 1 hive. Essentially, I got a late start with making the preparations to bring back our family's bees (after we lost our last hive--probably due to mites--a few years ago). Time was more of an issue than money was. Hopefully, this hive will make it through the winter, so that I can start up some more hives next spring. George Imirie mentioned that he's been keeping bees for 65 years. My grandfather has also been keeping bees a long time--he started when he was 15, by obtaining his uncle's hives (via a horse team and a wagon). He's 93 now. (93 - 15 = 78!) If he were able to get around like he used to, I have no doubts he'd still be managing the bees himself. Proud to be a 4th-generation beekeeper, James Ralston ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 18:03:28 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Ralston Subject: Re: Ants in and on hive Comments: cc: Robert E Butcher , Musashi In-Reply-To: <19980623.184012.9478.4.bobbees@juno.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Robert, [Teresa], You wrote: > Hi, does anyone know of a good non chemical way of keeping out them > stinking little ants? Layne Westover mentioned possibly putting your hive on a stand with legs, and then either setting the legs in sand canisters soaked in used motor oil, or applying Tanglefoot to the legs. I've used Tanglefoot before (albeit not on hives), and in my opinion, it works *very* well. You generally only have to reapply once or twice a season, and I've yet to see any critter that's willing to even attempt to cross that barrier. (I have a suspicion that part of Tanglefoot's effectiveness comes from exploiting evolved behavior on the part of insects to avoid attempting to cross areas of sticky gunk (i.e., sap) on trees. But as far as I know, that's just a pet theory of mine.) I'd also feel a lot better about using Tanglefoot than used motor oil, because used motor oil is nasty stuff. Not only is it toxic, but it's carcinogenic as well. In contrast, Tanglefoot consists of "castor oil, natural gum, resins, and vegetable wax." Not anything you'd want you or any other mammals to eat, of course, but certainly less toxic than used motor oil. Regards, James ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 20:14:06 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: tomas mozer Subject: query for south african beekeepers:cape bees,small hive beetles,etc. Comments: To: g95c6713@WARTHOG.RU.AC.ZA greetings garth et al.! have some questions you all may be able to answer... can anyone update me on the "capensis syndrome"? is this like the equivalent of "africanization" in the americas? how far has it spread: in particular, has it reached durban? does anybody keep european bees in the affected areas? are there any known correlations between bee types and aethina tumida infestation/damage? one reason for my curiosity is a recent interception/extermination of a feral hive in a florida(usa) seaport on a barge loaded in durban which arrived here with about 100 lbs.of bees/comb (confirmed african by morphometrics) after a month at sea with at least one stopover (in venezuela)...certainly a scenario suggestive of a possible means of introduction of more than one already confirmed exotic to these shores; reminds me of the supposed old chinese curse about living in interesting times, with a global village adaptation about living in shifting paradigms... _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 05:53:34 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Judy Spradley Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 1 Jul 1998 to 2 Jul 1998 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Andrew requested info on bee hive materials other than wood. Well, I saw an article a year or so ago in an American publication - Bee Culture. It discussed making brood boxes out of concrete. The advantage was they did not rot and were easy to repair. The disadvantage was their weight if you need to move them, and the fact that they would absorb moisture in a wet climate. Might be feasible in a dry climate. The forms were made using an old wooden hive. Judy, A Displaced Texan in PA (ironacres@geocities.com) IRON ACRES HANDCRAFTS - goat milk soap & beeswax candles Where the water is red & the grass is green! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 10:12:45 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Greg Hankins Subject: Shook Swarms Late in Season Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I've just read Richard Taylor's Comb Honey book and am interested in trying the shook swarm method, maybe for sections or maybe just for chunk honey. Some posts in the archives suggest this may be a problem late in the season, either because of spotty flows or a disinclination of the bees to build comb later in the season. We had a strong late flow from sumac (and maybe some cotton) last year. Assuming a repeat this year, is trying the method still inadvisable? I understand that spring is "swarm season," but do bees often swarm naturally in the late season under the influence of a strong flow? Thanks for any and all advice. Greg ____________________________________________________ Greg Hankins Mt. Gilead, NC ghankins@ac.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 11:06:31 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Comb Honey/Shook Swarming MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Regarding shook swarming for comb honey production I'd advise against it at this time of the season. Although hives will swarm in July, and in the past few years I have seen late swarms, even in August(!), it's best to remember the rhyme: A swarm in May is worth a load of hay. A swarm in June is worth a silver spoon. A swarm in July ain't worth a fly! Taylor's comb honey book is a good one and you should have good results following the techniques he describes, but it's best to start earlier in the season. Late May is ideal. From the new annals of stupidity: I shook swarmed a hive about two weeks ago for the second time. I originally SSed them in early June, but the bees never moved into the comb honey super they jammed the brood box with honey and pollen to the point that there were only two frames left for the queen, who was laying. Swarm cells a plenty told me the SS was getting ready to swarm again. So I quickly grabbed a medium super and shook swarmed them again, only this time I tried to get ALL the bees into the SS and gave the now beeless brood chamber to another hive. Two days later, very few bees (less than a pound) were in the SS. Very curious!? Upon examination I discovered that the medium super into which I had shaken the bees had NO FOUNDATION! Needless to say the shook swarm absconded. Aaron Morris - thinking that's how stupid I can be! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 18:59:42 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: RFC822 error: Incorrect or incomplete address field found and ignored. From: Ruary Rudd Subject: Varroa in Ireland MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable this is the text of a further article in the Irish Times dated July 3rd 1998. "An air of gloom hung over the open day at the Teagasc beekeeping Researc= h Unit in Clonroche yesterday. The day before had been D-day for Irish beekeepers. Overnight the Department ofr Agriculture and Food had destroy= ed 10 million bees in 150 hives in Co. sligo to prevent the spread of the varroa mite which preys on colonies and wipes them out." "There was anger too that somehow the pest had been introduced into Irela= nd, the last place in the world outside australia to be free of the mite." "Not even the news that substantial compensation of =A380 per hive will b= e paid to beekeepers concerned, brightened the day." " 'We are at a crossroads in beekeeping in Ireland from here on in. We w= ill have to learn to live with varroa like everyone else' said Mr. Patsy Benn= et, the Teagasc bee expert." "While he was lecturing the beekeepers who came from all over the country= to the session on how to spot the mites in hives, an angry debate was going = on as to how the long resisted mite had eventually made its way into this country." "None of the five beekeepers from Sligo who had been hit by the mite was = in attendance." "Mr. Michael O'Callaghan, the Cork president of the Irish Beekeepers federation appealed to beekeepers and the public to destroy any swarms of wild bees they might find in the Sligo / Mayo area over the next few week= s." " 'They can spread the mite because they cannot be controlled like the b= ees we handle. If anyone sees a swarm of wild bees, they should destroy them,= ' he said. My comments on this fiasco are ; 1 The incidence of infested hives has increased from two hives to a minium of five ( and probably a lot more) 2 Therefore the mite is widespread in the area. 3 A slaughter policy is going to deter other beekeepers from coming forward and seeking assistance. 4 If the mite is widespread in the area a slaughter policy cannot work unless all carriers are killed; the mind runs to the tse tse fly eradicat= ion program in East and central Africa to see the futility of a slaughter pol= icy where part of the vectoring factors are feral animals. Ruary Rudd rrudd@ tinet.ie ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 3 Jul 1998 16:51:42 -0500 Reply-To: ktate@geocities.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Kathy Tate Subject: Re: Ants in and on hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I've used Tanglefoot before (albeit not on hives), and in my opinion, > it works *very* well. Would someone please tell me what Tanglefoot is and where can it be found. I saw the ingredents listed but is it a premixed product or do you mix it up yourself? Thanks, Kathy T ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 00:57:17 +0300 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: hive materials other than wood MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit aweinert wrote: > I am interested in any updates on hive material aother than wood i have maked hive of aluminium>> http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/alubk.html (nice photos, unfortunaly in dutch language ) cork>> http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/kurkbkast.html (nice photos, unfortunaly in dutch language ) polustyreen>> http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/specht.html (nice photos ) In germany and large parts of holland Intensive use of SEGEBERGER HIVES INFO ON >> http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/Segenb.html (nice photos, unfortunaly in dutch language ) and........ there is more on >>> http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html ;-) ;-) greeting, jan ------------------------------------------------- home of the drone frame method. de darreraat methode ------------------------------------------------- Jan Tempelman / Ineke Drabbe | mailto:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 ------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 4 Jul 1998 17:35:17 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Ralston Subject: Tanglefoot (was Re: Ants in and on hive) Comments: cc: ktate@geocities.com In-Reply-To: <199807032242.SAA01014@post-ofc03.srv.cis.pitt.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Kathy Tate asked: > Would someone please tell me what Tanglefoot is and where can it be > found. "Tanglefoot" is short for "Tree Tanglefoot", a product sold by the Tanglefoot Company. It's sold pre-mixed, usually in white plastic tubs with green trim and black lettering. Essentially, it's a big tub of viscous goo. Here's what the label says: Tree Tanglefoot Pest Barrier Effective against: - Cankerworms - Gypsy Moth Caterpillars - Ants - Root Weevils - Climbing Cutworms - Other destructive climbing insects Tree Tanglefoot Pest Barrier has been manufactured from 100% natural ingredients since 1902. Ingredients: Castor Oil, Natural Gum Resins, Vegetable Wax The Tanglefoot Company Grand Rapids Michigan 49504 USA +1 616 459 4139, 8am-5pm EST E.P.A. Est. No. 1621-MI-1 Here in Butler County, Pennsylvania, USA, it's commonly sold in hardware and garden supply stores. If you look around some, you shouldn't have too much difficult finding it. Good luck, James ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 12:13:08 +0100 Reply-To: mpym@hive.netkonect.co.uk Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Madeleine Pym Organization: n/a Subject: Hi everyone, I'm Madeleine... new subscriber MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------A5FCC277CFDE12ECC452FCA1" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A5FCC277CFDE12ECC452FCA1 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit file:///Hard%20Disk/Temporary%20Items/nscomm40/tmp/tmp1/edt1.html --------------A5FCC277CFDE12ECC452FCA1 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"; name="edt1.html" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="edt1.html" Content-Base: "file:///Hard%20Disk/Temporary%20Items/ nscomm40/tmp/tmp1/edt1.html" Hi,

Just saying hello. I've just signed up with BEE-L and simply wanted to introduce myself.

I'm a beekeeper living in London, UK.

Just signed up with NetKonect and taking my first orientation flight.

Looking forward to talking to you.

Yours Sincerely,

Madeleine Pym --------------A5FCC277CFDE12ECC452FCA1-- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 09:12:29 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Tanglefoot (was Re: Ants in and on hive) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Anybody out there using Fluon for ant barriers? or is it just a lab curiosity. Tom in CT ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 10:50:31 BST Reply-To: MBDESAS@mail1.mcc.ac.uk Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andy Sutherland Organization: Manchester University and UMIST Subject: Video Comments: To: LISTSERV@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Does anyone know where I may be able to purchase " the monk and the honey bee " Video from in the UK? It's the video about brother Adams at Buckfast. I did buy it about 8 years ago ( can't remember where from ) but I leant it to someone who threw it away! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Andy Sutherland ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 08:03:46 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris ------------------ Original message (ID=694437) (80 lines) -------------------- Return-Path: Received: from ALBNYVM1 (NJE origin SMTPIN2@ALBNYVM1) by CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU (LMail V1.2c/1.8c) with BSMTP id 6983; Mon, 6 Jul 1998 07:41:11 -0400 Received: from m1.boston.juno.com [205.231.100.199] by CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU (IBM VM SMTP V2R4a) via TCP with SMTP ; Mon, 06 Jul 1998 07:41:10 EDT Received: (from tomasmozer@juno.com) by m1.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id DHGKSZY6; Mon, 06 Jul 1998 07:38:40 EDT To: mdiver@voy.net Cc: bee-l@cnsibm.albany.edu Subject: [Fwd: Drag Queen????]/thelytoky in apis mellifera Message-ID: <19980706.013951.4471.1.tomasmozer@juno.com> X-Mailer: Juno 1.38 X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 0-6,8-9,11-13,15,17,19,21-23,25,27-31,34,36-37, 49-50,52,54-55,57,59 From: tomasmozer@juno.com (tomas mozer) Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 07:38:40 EDT --------- Begin forwarded message ---------- From: mdiver@voy.net (vger) Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Drag Queen???? Date: 2 Jul 1998 20:22:16 GMT > I've had a Queenless hive with laying workers... > I noticed that the workers had made Queen cells. > Now my question is: Since the laying workers only lay drone eggs, if > they lay an egg in the queen cell, and the workers treat it as a Queen > egg with royal jelly and all. When the bee hatches out is it still a > drone but thinking it's a Queen? Does it act like a Queen or a Drone? > So would it be called a Drag Queen then? :) --------- End forwarded message --------- an article in the may,1991 issue of beescience (v.1,#3) by degrandi-hoffman, erickson, lusby&lusby reports on thelytoky (a type of parthenogenic reproduction where unfertilized eggs develop into females) in a strain of u.s. honey bees... (paraphrasing from the abstract): "a strain...with the ability to rear workers and queens using the eggs of laying workers...was developed from commercial stocks of european bees...previously, thelytoky was assumed to occur rarely...with the exception of the south african cape bee (a.m.capensis)...comparisons of worker behavior and ovarian development were made among queenless colonies of (this strain) and two (other) lines...(this strain) had a significantly lower percentage of workers with developed ovaries at the time when eggs...first appeared...all three constructed queen cells and deposited eggs in them but viable queens emerged only from (this strain)...(second) line did not rear larvae...but in some instances the (third) line did...however (they) destroyed the queen cells either prior to or soon after capping them." (paraphrasing from the results): "...(third line) produced only drones from laying worker eggs, although some colonies reared larvae in queen cells...these...were larger and longer than those...in colonies rearing queens from a mated queen's brood." guess you can have pretenders to the throne (false queens) in the hive, even some times restoring rightful rulers (true queens), but "drag queens" will not be tolerated? _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 08:25:58 -0400 Reply-To: beekeepr@bellsouth.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Frank Humphrey Subject: Returned Pictures MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some of the "Bees in building pictures" I sent were rejected by individual domains. I answered all request so if you didn't get them they can be seen at http://www.sugarplum.net/bees.htm Frank Humphrey beekeepr@bellsouth.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 16:11:19 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Emily M. Pruyn" Subject: Help! Bear in Apiary! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have two new hives in my back yard just outside of Boston Ma; and this morning at 6am I see a black bear sitting with my birdfeeder between his legs, scooping sunflower seeds intohis mouth!! He is sitting not 30 feet away from my hives. I go outside and yell at him and he (she?) lumbers away. But, he will be back....I'm sure the seeds were delicious, and sooner or later he'll notice the hives. What should I do?? I can't sit by them with a .22 all night long (besides discharging it in this built up neighborhood is illegal). Emily ---thinking if it ain't one thing, it's another! Emily M. Pruyn emlake@aerodyne.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 19:44:06 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Norman CotÊ" Subject: Re: Help! Bear in Apiary! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit What you may end up needing is a solar powered electric fence around your hives and bird feeder. Also, I would report the bear sighting to police etc. Norm in Connecticut ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 17:52:14 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tony Dixon Subject: Re: Help! Bear in Apiary! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Bears are a vexing problem here too. A simple solution is to remove all edibles from the area and place a radio near the hive, perhaps under a second hive body. play it all night very low, just so you can hear it about 15 feet away. Here on Vancouver Island bears are a major issue, and a wide variety of anti bear defences are used. From electric fences to urine marking posts to bear cages for the hives. All work to some extent but the bears don't all cooperate all the time. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 08:56:56 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Algis Tribinevicius Subject: Steam Wax Melter MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Bee-L Members, I am looking for plans to construct a steam wax melter to clean out combs from about 20 hives. If anyone has made such a device please contact me via e-mail at algitrib@enoreo.on.ca. Thank you, Algis Tribinevicius - Manitoulin Island, Ontario, Canada. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:31:08 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dan Jones Subject: Re: Help! Bear in Apiary! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have found 2 things that work. I have only had problems with bears at the hives at night. During the day they go after the berries and fruit... Also, this applies ONLY to black bears, those of you with the feircer varities are on your own ;) 1.) A dog that lets me know when there is a bear around and a VERY bright light. I have used a spotlight (like you would use for spotting deer etc. ) connected to a 12 volt battery. The brightness helps since it reduces the distance I have to walk to chase the bear off. If you use a flashlight, it's likely that the bear will only move out of the light, which is 100' max with a flashlight. With a spotlight you can move them over the river and through the woods. This only works if you are near the hives when the bear is. When you tire of chasing the bear off it's time for number 2. 2.) A good electric fence. Properly installed and grounded with a quality charger. If you are installing the fence/controller just for a hive or two it is expensive, but it does work. It helps to bait the fence to get the bear to touch it once, preferably with the tounge or lips. I have used a can of sardines peirced with a couple of nailholes hung from a hot wire. Someone else suggested a radio, this should work in some situations, as would a flashing light or other unnatural distraction. In most areas bears don't stay in any one place for very long over the feeding season. Their ranges are big. If they are staying in your area for more than a few days they will probably get used to hearing the radio and choose to ignore it. Maybe place several tons of salmon in your neighbors yard?? Dan Jones dgj+@pitt.edu ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:07:33 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dale Q. Marmaduke" Subject: How do the professionals requeen when they don't have the time to find the old queen? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit How do the professionals with 1,000+ hives requeen. They don't have the time to look for the queens. What are the techniques of the professionals? Dale Marmaduke (jsut five hives and working for twenty) dmarmad@iquest.net ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 09:21:24 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: M Greene Subject: Re: Help! Bear in Apiary! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Emily, Bobby from Gardiner NY. In a catalog from Brushy Mountain Bee Farms they have a devise called , Critter Gitter. It sences body heat which flashes a built in lite and makes piercing noises. The nice thing about this devise is, it changes the sound and lite patern each time it is activated. So the critter does not get used to it. It retails for 60 bucks. You can get a catalog by calling 1 800 beeswax . Tell Becky I said , Hello. They have many good products. Good luck, Your Beeee Bud BOBBY -----Original Message----- From: Emily M. Pruyn To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Date: Monday, July 06, 1998 5:58 PM Subject: Help! Bear in Apiary! >I have two new hives in my back yard just outside of >Boston Ma; and this morning at 6am I see a black bear sitting >with my birdfeeder between his legs, scooping sunflower seeds >intohis mouth!! He is sitting not 30 feet away from my hives. >I go outside and yell at him and he (she?) lumbers away. But, >he will be back....I'm sure the seeds were delicious, and sooner >or later he'll notice the hives. What should I do?? I can't sit >by them with a .22 all night long (besides discharging it in this >built up neighborhood is illegal). > >Emily ---thinking if it ain't one thing, it's another! >Emily M. Pruyn >emlake@aerodyne.com > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 10:05:05 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Emily M. Pruyn" Subject: Re: Help! Bear in Apiary! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 05:52 PM 7/6/98 -0700, you wrote: >Bears are a vexing problem here too. A simple solution is to remove all >edibles from the area and place a radio near the hive, perhaps under a >second hive body. play it all night very low, just so you can hear it about >15 feet away. Someone has told me that bears will stay away from barking dogs, but I had not heard the advice about the radio. Is it, then, any kind of "other animal" noise that deters them?.......music or talk equally effective?.....Jazz, hard rock, or classical? Sorry, I'm getting punchy. He/she was sited 6 backyards away from mine at 10 pm last nite. I kept flood lights on my yard all nite, and slept with one eye open listening for him. No visits last night. Thanks for your info. I will set up a radio tonite. Emily Emily M. Pruyn emlake@aerodyne.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 18:27:49 PDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ernest Gregoire Subject: Re: Help! Bear in Apiary! Comments: cc: "Emily M. Pruyn" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello Emilly, Whatever you do,do not shoot the bear with a .22 It will only aggravate him. He could easily turn his attention from bird seed to you. The doors to most houses would not stop an angry bear either. Call Fish and Game, They will advise you. Bears are wild animals and extremely strong. I have seen the remains of trees ripped apart by bears to get the ants inside. For starters clean up the bird seed,and any other food lying about.(Wait for the bear to depart, of course.) Bears become a nuisance when they become "Pets", by so called "Animal Lovers," feeding them. Wild animals should be just that, wild. They do not need any help from man to exist. They will loose their fear of people and that is when the trouble starts. The best that can be hoped for then is that Fish and Game officials can capture it,(Not often successful.) The worst case involves the yuppie fed bear being killed by Fish and Game people. (Dart tranquilizers work in the movies, In real life they often kill the animal. If not killed by the drugs they then wander about in a drug induced stupor, extremely stressed out, and die later. I lost my(then) one and only hive to a bear a few years ago. I have an electric fence now. We got it working just in time too. My wife saw a bear cub just 200 yards from our house, and apiary. We live in the country with lots of wild game close by. I have lost several cats to coyotes and fox over the past decade. Bear sighting are common, as are turkeys, and deer. I can help you with and improved diagram for the circuit of an electric fence, not the electronic part but the fence itself. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 22:13:18 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tom Sanford Subject: Any help here? MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Return-path: >Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 15:53:05 -0400 (EDT) >From: Ottagency@aol.com >Subject: help with info >To: mts@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU, ": mts"@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU >Cc: Ottagency@aol.com > > > > Sirs, I am new to Bee keeping and have been give an extractor of > made of steel (older type) galvanizes? > it has been not been in use for 5 years former owner lost >all his > bees to foulbrood > > how can I clean it ?? do I have to worry about foulbrood >being > transmitted? > > also was give a s.steel tank , how should I clean it?? > > thank you for any info you may >have > nice site.> sincerely John >OTT > ottagency @aol.com > > ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 19:25:48 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tony Dixon Subject: Re: Help! Bear in Apiary! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Someone has told me that bears will stay away from barking dogs, but I had not >heard the advice about the radio. Is it, then, any kind of "other animal" noise >that deters them?.......music or talk equally effective?.....Jazz, hard rock, or >classical? Several commercial beekeepers use radios in each bee yard and no longer strap hives or use electrical fencing except in special cases. I suppose talk radio is the station of choice. Often we don't have a choice since there is poor reception in the narrow mountain valleys here in central Vancouver Island. In these valleys we often have several resident bears, they don't seem to get used to the radio sounds. I must be conservative. My bees are secured to pallets with steel banding and have a radio tuned to Dr. Laura, and an electric fence. So far no problems. Electric fencing will not keep out a determined bear. Many recomend baiting a new fence with aluminum foil on the wire and coated with a mixture of peanut butter and cooking oil. This form of aversion therapy will keep the bear away for the rest of the summer I think. Each time I drive up the logging road to visit the bee yard there are large piles of bear dung on the road so they are in the area. so far this year no problem. Tony Dixon