========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 20:35:17 -0600 Reply-To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Matthew Subject: Re: taking hives out of a tree - cut open a window? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Bee-L members! Does anyone out there have the experience of removing hives from large trees? Someone called me with an old Cottonwood tree in the country which I found two rather active hives (or one REALLY huge one - as it spans about 10 feet from openings - one in a branch & the other directly in the trunk of the tree). The residents don't care what I do to the Cottonwood (which spans approx 7-8 ft in diameter @ the base) - though there's an 1800's shed below one of the large 'tree-size' limbs which they'd like to see survive. It looks like the entire tree is hollow. Branches which have broken off are hollow down to the ends. The one hive in the branch, I'll likely tie ropes to and lower the bulk of the branch slowly after sawing it from the trunk. If this succeeds, I'll move the whole branch to my property & find a way to place Apistan inside the hive - or menthol for the winter. Q.- For the 2n'd one in the trunk, I'm thinking of cutting a "window" close to their entrance & remove as much of the honey & bees as possible. Following this, I'll vacuum (bee-vacuum) the bees in crevices. I'll move them into a Langstroth hive which I'll leave attached to the tree close to the old entrance. This way, I'm expecting the remainder of the hive will move out & into my beehive (provided the queen is captured, or all the honey is removed). Anyone else have ideas of safe-capture for this type of hive? Thanks in advance, Matthew in Colorado ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 21:36:19 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Propolis Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Does everyone who gets their photo in a bee magazine save a clean unstained bee suit for the photo opertunity or is there some secret to removing the goo I have yet to discover? Are rubber bands on the cuffs the standard routine to keep the bees out of your armpits once the elastic gives up? Tom in CT ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 09:46:12 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: Greenhouse Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Thanks for all of the opinions on greenhouse bees. This is a very informative list. I have concluded from the convoluted verbage that my idea would work but is not practical. Next Question; Most hives are made of pine. I have a good quantity of red cedar and woodworking skills. Cedar keeps moths out of closets and cedar chests do the same. Cedar shavings, when used for bedding, help keep your dogs free of fleas. Cedar also resists rot and weathers nicely. I have seen cedar bottom boards advertised so I assume that it is ok with the bees. If the wooden ware were constructed of cedar, would this help repel mites? I know I can ask some dumb questions but I,m new to this and you guys have "been there, done that" , so thanks for the help. Richard ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 18:20:04 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Norman CotÊ" Subject: Re: Greenhouse Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I would think that by using cedar that your surplus honey would take on that odor and i don't think that you would like it. Also, I'm not too sure but, I don't think that the bees would care for it either. But, listen you may want to try it with one hive. Norm ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 18:23:22 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Norman CotÊ" Subject: Re: Propolis Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Tom, I think your correct about people having a clean bee suit for photo's. When I was on the Martha Stewart show I had to purchase a new one since mine was covered with propolis. Norm, also from Connecticut ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 20:41:00 -0400 Reply-To: Mark Baird Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mark Baird Subject: Re: Propolis MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Although it sounds that you're joking.....rubber bands do come in handy. If you are joking.....find somewhere else.... Mark Baird rookie beekeeper ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 06:54:11 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Daniel D. Dempsey" Subject: Re: Propolis In-Reply-To: <199808081348.GAA09981@tco1.tco.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:36 PM 8/7/98 EDT, you wrote: > Does everyone who gets their photo in a bee magazine save a clean unstained >bee suit for the photo opertunity or is there some secret to removing the goo Tom: There is a product made by CASTROL called SUPER CLEAN it will take most of the Propolis out of your suit and off your hands. >I have yet to discover? > Are rubber bands on the cuffs the standard routine to keep the bees out of >your armpits once the elastic gives up? I thought that is what Duct Tape is for. If you have a helper have them tape you up and then they can use the Rubber Bands. Dan Daniel D. Dempsey P. O. Box 5 Red Bluff,CA 96080-0005 ddempsey@tco.net ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 14:12:35 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Midnitebee Subject: Fw: Urgent info/bee hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings!.. can some one in the San Francisco,Ca. area help this person?.. From: HBSOB@aol.com To: midnitebee@cybertours.com Date: Saturday, August 08, 1998 1:15 PM Subject: Urgent info >I am interested in obtaining a bee hive. I do not know anything about bee's . >I want it as a gift for a friend of mine that will be his birthday today >8/7/98 and would like to see how I can obaing one. Where are you located ? >I live in San Francisco, Ca. Do you know of a place close by where I can >obtain one? I would really apreciate if you get back to me asap. > > E-mail hbsob@aol.com >Tel 415-664-8716 > > Thanks for your help > > Osbaldo ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 19:01:22 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Alan Riach Subject: Cedar Hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Re Tom in CT's question on cedar hives - these are the ideal hive in damp UK(we've had one of the wettest summers ever here in Scotland incidently) Most of our bee equipment suppliers only offer cedar now. However I've noticed that re-plant cedar isn't nearly as good as original growth ( which has a much stronger smell ) for resisting rot. Recently we have started getting Brazilian cedar which seems to have a stronger smell.We always get our USA cedar boards in 7/8 inch thickness whereas the pine boards are 3/4, anyone know why ? Happy honey hunting, Alan Riach in Scotland ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 09:28:59 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Swarming in August? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" *ripped off the news group for you that don't get it.* Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: swarming in August? Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 00:59:43 GMT On Fri, 07 Aug 1998 14:49:17 -0400, Marc Andelman wrote: >Can bees swarm in August? How can you tell swarming >behavior from mere mustering of the troops for a good >honey flow? Good Question from Marc, 1st swarming can take place anytime of the year that the bees are active and they become crowed with bees, honey, and/or pollen. In many areas the bees do swarm more then once and in some areas they do not swarm in the spring but will swarm later in the summer because of the timing of plants useful to bees. Beekeepers who move their bees from South to North many times increase the numbers of swarms and over the years most have developed methods to prevent this swarming. The most popular is by making divides with new queens before moving. In some locations not necessarily the best for honey production such as coastal areas with warm days alternating with cool fogy days the bees will swarm out, that is they will keep swarming until nothing is left behind but a queen cell and a few hundred bees. These yards are excellent for making increase and if the bees are left alone and only the swarms caught many times the number of swarms caught will exceed the original number of hives. Some of these areas are notorious for NOT catching back mated queens because of the same weather conditions that may cause them to swarm. Careful examination of commercial bee hives in California finds queen cells present all season long. We think of these as supersedure cells but all outward appearances of the hives will be normal. No signs of a failing queen such as shot gun brood and the like. Most beekeepers do not cut this type of cell and for sure queens are being replace naturally all season long and some of these may swarm in the process if they become crowded with pollen and/or nectar. Most think of the swarming behaviors as being caused by crowding by bees and it may be, we also think that a queen must be present but in running queen banks of several hundred mated queens and young bees added every few days from hatching brood I have had these hives swarm without any queen in the swarm.. It is interesting and exciting, very exciting if you know the value $$ of 250 queens in a full bank, to see them take wing filling the air and heading out of town only to park in a big cluster on a tree limb 50 to 100 yards away. They usually rest there for up to an hour and then again take flight and return to the hive. I once had a bank hive that you could set your clock by as it would take off each afternoon about the same time and always returned. In time even an old drone can learn new tricks and all that was needed to stop this brazer and dangerous activity was to remove one or all of the gallon feed cans on these hives and cut the sugar with water so they will blow most of it out each night and not become so crowded. Old time beekeepers this area used to finish extracting and their bee work for the year and take of for a month of hunting in October - November. One year they all got back to find swarms hanging everywhere as they hit a unheard of late cotton flow and had removed all the supers so the bees blocked out and swarmed. They started up again and did not finish extracting until Thanksgiving turkey time. I once hit a crop of Golden Eye, a cool season wild sunflower, on the Mexican boarder a flow that only hits every 17 years or so and I never finished extracting but quit at Christmas as it was cold enough to make it an impossible job in an area that having heat in the honey house was never thought of, normally never needed, as the air temperature is normally warm enough to extract and pump honey as fast as you can extract it. We did well over 200 pounds per hive anyway and had hives wanting to swarm to the last day of the flow which in total was almost a year long and some of the different wild flowers bloomed three times that normally only bloom once. Beekeeping on the higher Snorian Desert is a different and as difficult beekeeping as can be found. Most beekeepers in the area never were able to take real advantage of this late flow as they had never experienced it before and by the time they figured it out their bees were so weak from swarming to do much. ttul, the OLd Drone http://beenet.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:17:05 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Cedar Hives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/9/98 2:26:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, alan.riach@WHICH.NET writes: > We always get our USA cedar boards in 7/8 inch thickness Usually #2 or #3 cedar is 7/8 when left rough on one side and is used for house siding board and batten style. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:34:45 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dave D. Cawley" Subject: Hive Beetle Question MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Ok, correct me if I'm wrong...but the beetle drops into the soil to paupate, can't we make the soil inaccessible to inhospitable? Maybe putting down gravel or black tarpso r grub killing pesticides could be used. How far off the mark am I? *************************************************************** Dave D. Cawley | Where a social revolution is pending and, The Internet Cafe | for whatever reason, is not accomplished, Scranton, PA | reaction is the alternative. (717) 344-1969 | dave@scranton.com | -Daniel De Leon *************************************************************** URL => http://www.scranton.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 15:50:38 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Kerry Stewart Subject: BUMBLE BEES AND TWO-QUEEN HIVES MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would appreciate any replies to the following questions. TWO QUEEN HIVES How soon before a spring honey flow should you split a hive and introduce a second queen? How soon before a spring honey flow should you reunite the hives and run a two-queen system? BUMBLE BEES Has anyone details about making a bumble bee hive? How do you start a bumble bee hive? FEEDING What is best to feed in spring - sugar, raw sugar or syrup? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 15:33:36 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "John R. Valentine" Subject: Question about this new Beetle Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I have not read any of the Beetle mail. Could anyone enlighten me with a brief summary of the facts. And does this thing pose a real threat to New England beekeepers. John CT ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 00:14:47 -0600 Reply-To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Matthew Subject: queen laying multiple eggs in cells? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anyone ever see a queen lay 3 or 4 eggs in a brood-cell, on nearly every open cell? This queen is a new (2-3 weeks) & she's working on four brood-frames from my other hives. I'm wondering if the limited space she has may be a factor and perhaps she's just an extremely heavy layer with nowhere else to lay? (I'll be giving her halfway-empty brood frames out of my other hives tomorrow, if I can find some). (no worries - she's not a laying worker - I know a queen when I see one & she's marked) If she's a dud, can I save the brood by picking out the extra eggs? Or will the bees do this themselves given a bit more time? Thanks, Mathew ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 23:15:14 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: Question about this new Beetle In-Reply-To: <199808100546.WAA19487@mx1.thegrid.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 03:33 PM 8/9/98 -0400, you wrote: >I have not read any of the Beetle mail. >Could anyone enlighten me with a brief summary of the facts. And does this >thing pose a real threat to New England beekeepers. Follow the advance of Afro-Beetle in the "Killer Bee & Worm Journal" at: http://beenet.com/bnews.htp 8.7.98 AFRO-Beetles have been found in six state's and looking. Damage in most cases is NOT expected to be great and control my be as easy as moving to new locations,..often. Several controls includes both chemical and biological. One includes a chemical now used for Fire Ants and registration could be pending label changes. Some questions have not been answered such as if damage is greater closer to the coast and the route this pest used to get to an island off the coast of SC with heavy infestation to bees there reported? The states are SC, FL, GA, OH, ND, and ME. *editor. * Of course you may not have read about this in your local newspapers as its from un-named sources close to the investigation and invasion. ttul, the OLd Drone (c)Permission is given to copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE AT OWN RISK! ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:16:35 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: Re: Cedar Hives Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Hi Alan, Cedar is not rot resistant because of the smell. It is more wearther proof because it contains an oil based resin rather than a water based sap in wood that has to be kiln dried. This oil produces the cedar smell and some say that the oil is what causes it to repel moths, termites, and fleas. This is why I question wether or not it would repel mites in bee hives. I use cedar shavings in my dog kennels. My dogs are kept clean and have no fleas. If this is because of the cedar or hygene, I don't know, but they smell good. Cedar is cut to 7/8m thickness to allow for planing to 3/4 in lumber. Thank You for the info on cedar hives. I will definetly try them. Do you have mite problems in your cedar hives? I know more about wood thatn bees but I am learning. I attended a really great meeting today of the Nashville Area Beekeepers Assn. The are some of the most friendly folks I have been around. If all bee keepers are like these folks, that is reason enough to become a beekeeper just to be counted as 1 of them. Thanks for making me feeling welcome. Enough rambling. Richard , ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 20:36:37 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Propolis Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/8/98 7:16:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Beekeeperc@AOL.COM writes: > om, I think your correct about people having a clean bee suit for photo's. > When I was on the Martha Stewart show I had to purchase a new one since mine > was covered with propolis. > I hear ol Marfa is worth 230-300 million- should ahve had her provide a new Sheriff suit. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 14:19:43 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: propolis stains and duct tape query Comments: To: beerich@BELLSOUTH.NET Hi Tom As regors your propolis question: how to get it of your suit - I have had this problem with it getting on my shirts (I usually avoid suits as they cause you to get stung) To remove place a jar with chloroform under the stain - place another jar on the other side and push it's neck into contact with the chlorform jar - invert repeatedly until most of the stain is disolved. Then, use a little clean just to remove the excess stain. Works quite well - anything the chloroform does not dissolve can be dissolved by a hot wash in your washing machine with a bioactive washing powder. As regards the elastic bands on the sleeves: Bees always get in suits - unless you are working scutellata it should not be neccessary to wear a suit - they cause you to get stung - remember, if you use your smoker right any bee which gets inside your suit does not actually want to sting you - it wants to get out - and if your suit is all sealed, that is difficult - a loose t-shirt with the bottome untucked is much better and you get stung less - if neccessary wear a veil. It must be white. Hope that helps Keep well Garth Garth Cambray Camdini Apiaries Grahamstown Apis mellifera capensis Eastern Cape Prov. South Africa Time = Honey After careful consideration, I have decided that if I am ever a V.I.P the I. may not stand for important. (rather influential, ignorant, idiotic, intelectual, illadvised etc) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 08:28:30 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Frank Humphrey Subject: Re: taking hives out of a tree - cut open a window? Comments: To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com In-Reply-To: <199808081346.JAA08703@mail4.bellsouth.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Following this, I'll vacuum (bee-vacuum) the bees in crevices. I'll > move them into a Langstroth hive which I'll leave attached > to the tree > close to the old entrance. This way, I'm expecting the > remainder of the > hive will move out & into my beehive (provided the queen > is captured, > or all the honey is removed). Anyone else have ideas of > safe-capture > for this type of hive? > > Thanks in advance, > > Matthew in Colorado > The key is getting the queen in the new hive and trapping her there so that she can't move back into the tree. once the bees realize that she is there, they will rob the honey from the tree and move it into the new hive. If the hive is very high, make sure you set up a rope and pulley arrangement to lower it the ground. If it is a large colony, it can become very heavy and would be very nasty if you drop them coming down the ladder. Frank Humphrey [ beekeepr@bellsouth.net ] ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 14:27:23 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Parker Subject: Re: Greenhouse Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Richard Spiekhout wrote: Most hives are made of pine. I have a good quantity of red cedar and woodworking skills. Cedar keeps moths out of closets and cedar chests do the same. Cedar shavings, when used for bedding, help keep your dogs free of fleas. Cedar also resists rot and weathers nicely. I have seen cedar bottom boards advertised so I assume that it is ok with the bees. If the wooden ware were constructed of cedar, would this help repel mites? Richard, As a relatively new beekeeper and someone who has recently purchased new hives, I know that western red cedar is the product of choice in the UK. It has a number of advantages in that it is more resistant to rot and insect attack (e.g. woodworm) and if cared for properly (the occasional application of wood preservative), will last for many, many years. I know of brood boxes and supers more than 20 years old which are still in excellent condition. However, it has a major drawback in that it is expensive. Unfortunately, in answer to your query, it does not prevent varroa (or other mite attack?). I have 3 colonies in red cedar hives and all have small numbers of varroa (and some wax moth). I don't know whether the infestation would have been more severe if the hives were of other wood species, but I doubt it. After all, the bees live quite happily in hives of this material. Bill Parker Hobby Beekeeper, Buckinghamshire, UK ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 08:54:23 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Warren Otto Subject: Quick and short from Manitoba MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just a quick update for those who may be interested. The weather here in Manitoba has been sunny and warm all summer with the right amount of rain in May and June to bring the canola along nicely. If my hives (4) are any indication, this will be a great year for the Manitoba beekeepers. One hive has produced about 400 lbs. while the other three have about 200lbs. each. Looking forward to the extraction this weekend. Cheers all. Warren Otto ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:58:46 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BILL HUGHES JR Subject: Boil Weevil Eradication Program Update Hi all, The BWEP in west Tennessee started yesterday. How do I know? I say the planes flying and spraying. The BWEP swore up and down that they would call me when they started spraying. Well they did not!! Also they said that they would only spray early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Well that they must be in a different time zone then me for the spraying was going on at 2:00 in the afternoon. If you are a government employee who is living off the work of others I guess 2PM is late. I am going down to their office this morning and complain. Fat chance it will do any good. Bill Hughes Bent Holly Honey Farm Brighton, Tennessee USA ____ Bill Hughes Bent Holly Honey Farm Brighton, Tennessee USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:48:57 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Nick Shilliff Subject: Queen cells We are in central NY and the goldenrod flow is just starting here.I was making up some late nucs in one outyard yesterday and found supersedure cells started in all five hives that we opened.All had excellent brood pattern,very strong.The queens are of varying ages.2 new this spring ,3 new last spring.This seems unusual for all to have cells. Also,RE highbush blueberry pollination.We have had mixed results effectively pollinating blueberries over the past few years.last year the bees worked the dandelions across from the blueberries while there were hundreds/thousands of bumblebees working the blueberries resulting in a bumper crop.this year we did not put honeybees in the blueberries and there were not many bumblebees pollinating,resulting in a poor crop.Is there any reason that the beehives would draw in the bumblebees?The grower has searched around (Cornell etc)and from the info he has received,concluded that bumblebees are better pollinators of highbush berries. Any wisdom you could share would bee appreciated. could share would be appreciated. _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 16:47:26 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Victoria McDonough Subject: Re: Uncappers Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Hi, As a new beekeeper I found the uncapping plane excellent. It was so easy to use. I was unskilled and sloppy with the knife. I use shallow honey supers because I can lift and carry them full (the mediums are too heavy for me) and the plane worked very well. It made a nice even neat cut. Vickie newbee in MA. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 14:41:52 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Drew LeWay Subject: bee stuff Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hey folks, This is our first year having bees, we have 3 hives. Yesterday I went down to check the girls out, hive 1 super was about 2/3 filled with honey, hive 3 super, the bees were starting to build out the comb, just starting, hive 2 super the bees were walking around but now comb has been started. We started all 3 hives at the same time, is there anything that I should be looking for and is this( normal)? We are using Duragilt foundations. Thanks... ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 19:02:11 -0400 Reply-To: lacelle@sympatico.ca Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Paul Lacelle Subject: Removal of Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I got a call from a very worried home owner today.His problem is a hive of bees have moved into his house all along the soffit area.Upon inspection I noticed that this was not just a swarm but a whole hive.He wants them destroyed as his family is very allergic to them.I hate to do them in,but really don't want to transfer them to my apiary.Any suggestion would be appreciated on how to dispose of them. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 18:00:15 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Slade Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 7 Aug 1998 to 8 Aug 1998 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit 1. Taking bees from a tree. It would help to establish the bees in the hive attached to the tree if any comb containing brood were trimmed to size and fitted into standard frames, secured with string or elastic bands and then placed in the hive. 2. My beesuit doesn't have elastic at the wrists as it is a cotton boiler suit as used by painters and decorators and a fraction of the price of a catalogue bee suit. When working bare handed I use wristlets. These are cloth tubes about 9 inches long with elastic at each end. They encase the arm from wrist to just below the elbow and prevent bees crawling up the sleeves. I bought mine but they must be very easy to make with basic sewing skills. 3. In the UK all the best hives are made of cedar. Pine is at the cheap, second class end of the market. Cedar is very light, stable, easily worked, insulating, lasts longer than the beekeeper and is resistant to insect attack. When very new they do have an attractive aroma, nicer than that of pine. The smell soon goes and honey does not appear to be tainted by it. Bees love it. The only disadvantages are the cost and that being a softer wood can over the years be damaged by hive tools at the corners. Woodpeckers and rats can make holes in it relatively easily but this is an infrequent problem in my area. Some of my cedar hives in constant use are at least half a century old. When new, cedar is a pinkish colour but soon weathers to an attractive silvery grey. Every few years I paint my hives with creosote if I think about it. This may make them last a little longer but I don't think I will live long enough to be sure. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 07:52:42 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Alan Riach Subject: 7/8 Cedar/ 3/4 Pine MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for the info. guys. Both the 7/8 cedar and 3/4 pine which we get is planed both sides - maybe someone in the past thought cedar needed to be thicker to make up for strength.For a given outside hive dimension it does of course give slightly smaller inside sizes but the bees seem to be able to live with the smaller overall space i.e. there doesn't seem to be any more tendency to propalise. Happy honey hunting Alan Riach ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:01:09 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Alan Riach Subject: Uncapping planes MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The hot hand plane which we use is excellent taking the cappings with hardly any honey. However it is a bit old and grouchy - keeps blowing the fuse after it's been on for a while - if we don't do something about it soon my friend Allister Guy's wife is going to throw us out of the house so that she can watch her favourite TV show without interruption. Anyone know of a source/price for good uncapping planes-thanks. Happy honey hunting Alan Riach ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 09:34:08 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: queen with laying workers?? Comments: To: fltdeck1@IX.NETCOM.COM Hi Mathew and All Just a quick query - you mentioned you had a queen in a hive and still had laying worker like symptoms with lots of eggs per cell. The questions here are: 1) where are you (geographically) 2) are the eggs drone or worker The reasons I ask this is that there is a small possibility that a certain number of cape honeybees have been introduced into the americas and this symptom you describe is often evident in hives affected by cape laying workers. Keep well Garth Garth Cambray Camdini Apiaries Grahamstown Apis mellifera capensis Eastern Cape Prov. South Africa Time = Honey After careful consideration, I have decided that if I am ever a V.I.P the I. may not stand for important. (rather influential, ignorant, idiotic, intelectual, illadvised etc) ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 07:25:30 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Return-Path: Received: from ALBNYVM1 (NJE origin SMTPIN2@ALBNYVM1) by CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU (LMail V1.2c/1.8c) with BSMTP id 1854; Mon, 10 Aug 1998 13:59:14 -0400 Received: from rock.icd.com [209.81.223.1] by CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU (IBM VM SMTP V2R4a) via TCP with SMTP ; Mon, 10 Aug 1998 13:59:14 EDT Received: from tom.icd.com (tom.icd.com [209.81.223.5]) by rock.icd.com (8.8.7/8.8.7) with SMTP id MAA17181 for ; Mon, 10 Aug 1998 12:51:04 -0500 Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.19980810125900.035fbd20@mail.icd.com> X-Sender: tom@mail.icd.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 3.0.3 (32) Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 12:59:00 -0500 To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Thomas D. Harker" Subject: Re: Queen cells In-Reply-To: <199808101526.KAA16431@rock.icd.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 09:48 AM 8/10/98 -0400, you wrote: >Also,RE highbush blueberry pollination... > ... info he has received,concluded that bumblebees are better >pollinators of highbush berries. > >Any wisdom you could share would bee appreciated. Bumblebees (Bombus) also work my raspberries better than my honeybees. I noticed an increase in Bombus over the past couple years since I started composting my leaves in the fall. I think the compost is creating an environment that is healthy for Bombus since they nest under ground. This year was a bumper crop for my raspberries and Bombus. Perhaps your Blueberry grower friend changed something else besides the honey bees this year. Tom ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 07:27:34 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:54:14 -0700 From: Tom Sanford Subject: Travail en apiculture X-Sender: mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu To: bee-l@cnsibm.albany.edu Cc: PFaure4108@aol.com Any help here? Please contact directly. =20 Tom Sanford >Return-path: >Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 15:22:01 -0400 (EDT) >From: PFaure4108@aol.com >Subject: Travail en apiculture >To: mts@GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU > >Je cherche du travail dans le domaine de l'apiculture au Canada. >J'ai 20 ans d'exp=E9rience et j'exploite environ 120 ruches en France. >J'ai 39 ans et je souhaite emigrer au Canada. >Pouvez vous m'aider ou me donner des adresses d'apiculteur =E0 contacter. >D'avance merci. > > Dr. Malcolm (Tom) Sanford, Extension Apiculturist, University of Florida Bldg. 970, P.O. Box 110620, Gainesville, FL 32611-0620 =20 Ph. 352/392-1801 ext. 143 Fax 352/392-0190 =20 E-mail: mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu =20 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------= ---- Publisher of the APIS newsletter: = http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~mts/apishtm/apis.htm To electronically subscribe, send the following to listserv@lists.ufl.edu: subscribe Apis-L First Name Last Name ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:16:45 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris From: "Swintosky, Michael D." To: "'bee-l@cnsibm.albany.edu'" Subject: Blueberry Pollination Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:11:11 -0400 Nick Shilliff wrote: >RE highbush blueberry pollination... Is there any reason that the >beehives would draw in the bumblebees? ... Could it be that introducing honeybees to the area creates competition for the other available forage, forcing the bumblebees to forage more heavily on the blueberries? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:37:49 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Randall Subject: TMC Chat Meeting Hi List Members, The Beekeeping site at The Mining Co. is having its weekly Chat Meeting. We invite you to join us tonight at 10:00pm. We have our chat meetings every Tuesday at 10:00pm est. We would be happy to have you stop by, and chat a while with us. Tonights topic is The Small Hive Beetle. TMC Beekeeping Chat Room: http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mpchat.htm Kind Regards, Sherry Medders beekeeping.guide@miningco.com http://beekeeping.miningco.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 10:01:00 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ron Bogansky Subject: Hand Uncapping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello All, I think I have tried every method and tool for uncapping by hand, including a torch. I have settled on the uncapping plane. It is a bit bulky and takes a little getting used to, but I prefer it over a knife. It allows you to hold your wrist in a more natural position which will relieve stress. I have carpel tunnel syndrome and find the plane is better ergonomically. One bit of advice, which I should have followed, is order a spare heating element. The one I use died last night and it will take a few days for a replacement to arrive. The element is less than $20.00 (American) and is good insurance. When I use the plane I control the temperature with a foot switch. I don't like to leave it on all the time. This may be why it burned out, but I prefer to keep the temperature cooler. I guess I will have to break out the blow torch until the element arrives. (Before everyone starts asking about the torch method, do an archive search. It was discussed in depth last year.) One late but quick comment on EAS. I attended it this year for the first time. It was great and I plan to attend in the future. The speakers were excellent, but the best part was meeting some of the people on the Bee-L list; Aaron, Herb, David, Kim and ol' George. It is great to put a face to a post. It was comments on the list by Herb, Kim and George that made me decide to go. My wife even had a good time and she is not really into the bees like the rest of us. One final note. The honey flow was less than expected in my area (southeastern PA). Some yards did better than others, but overall it was less than other years. I did have a few hives swarm after 13 days of rain in May, but the flow was spotty through most of June. The locust bloom was good but came two weeks early. The weather definitely had an effect. Yesterday was the first substantial rain we had in five weeks. But all that is what keeps it interesting. Ron Bogansky Kutztown, PA ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 06:24:10 -0600 Reply-To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Matthew Subject: Re: queen with laying workers?? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Garth & all, I'm in Castle Rock, Colorado (USA). The eggs are still in their infant stages so it's tough (for me) to tell, though they look identical to 1day-2day old normal queen-eggs (i.e. not capped yet). After reading through the responses of others though, the consensus is she's just a new queen & a bit frustrated without proper space to lay. I've given her another frame of ready-to-hatch larvae from my best hive, so I expect she'll have enough room to lay for a few days at least. By then, I'll locate some drawn comb to add to the hive. BTW - the queen was purchased from a queen producer (BWeaver - which I'm 100% thrilled with ! - great service & my other two queens from this year are doing great!) so my first inclination is that "I" was doing something wrong (vs. the queen). Seems like this was so, though I'll see in a few days. Where did I read "give the bees what they need, not what you want"? Thanks to all for their input, Matthew Westall > Just a quick query - you mentioned you had a queen in a hive and > still had laying worker like symptoms with lots of eggs per cell. > > The questions here are: 1) where are you (geographically) > 2) are the eggs drone or worker ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 16:37:00 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Beenetuk1 Organization: Amigabee computer networking for beekeepers Subject: NHS lecture programme 1998 The 67th National Honey Show with International Classes and Beekeepers' Lecture Convention, 1998 Organised by THE NATIONAL HONEY SHOW LIMITED The show is sponsored by The Worshipful Company of Wax Chandlers PROGRAMME OF EVENTS SCHEDULE OF CLASSES AND PRIZES Thursday, 26th November 2.30 pm-7.00 pm (doors open for Opening Ceremony 1.45 pm) Friday, 27th November 9.30 am-7.00 pm Saturday, 28th November 9.30 am-5.00 pm ADMISSION: Adults 4.00 * Children 16 and under 50p * Members free THURSDAY 26th NOVEMBER 2.00 pm Opening Ceremony HER EXCELLENCY SHELAGH M de OSUNA High Commissioner of the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago SATURDAY 28th NOVEMBER 4.00 pm Presentation of Cups and Trophies JACK HOLT . President of the National Honey Show LECTURE CONVENTION and Programme THURSDAY 26th NOVEMBER 1.45 Doors open 2.0 Opening Ceremony 3.0 "How doth the little busy Bee" Dr. Beulah Cullen 4.15 "Yemini Bees and Beekeeping" Julian Johnston 7.00 Show closes FRIDAY 27th November 9.30 Show opens 10.30 "Beekeeping lessons from the past" Norman Hughes 11.45 "Cold Climate Beekeeping" Kari Valonen 1.00 "Transporting Bees by Stage Coach" Ted Kay 2.15 "Those other Bees in your Garden" Andrew Halstead 3.30 "Honey - from the Honey Packers Point of View" Robin Lewis 4.45 "Bees, Smells and Gadgets" Dr Guy Poppy 7.00 Show closes SATURDAY 28NOVEMBER 9.30 Show opens 10.30 "Occasional Joys of a Marginal Beekeeper" Ted Kay 11.45 "Conflict in the Bee Hive" Dr Francis Ratnieks 1.00 "Beekeeping in Finland" Kari Valonen 2.30 National Honey Show Annual General Meeting and Annual National Council Meeting 4.00 Presentation of Trophies and Awards followed by the Draw 5.00 Show closes 5.30 Collect Exhibits The Show gratefully acknowledges the sponsorship by Hertfordshire BKA of the Jim Crawford Memorial Lecture given by Andrew Halstead, an anonymous donor for funding the Francis Ratnieks lecture and others who have donated generously and anonymously to the Lecture Convention funding. Show your Best Honey to the World at the Best Honey Show in the World. 26th, 27th & 28th November 1998 at Kensington Town Hall London UK Full details from Revd. F Capener, 1 Baldric Road, Folkestone CT20 2NR Tel & fax. +44 01303 254 579 (26p C5 sae welcome) E-mail: nathon@zbee.com Registered Charity 233656 --- # Origin: Bromley Beekeeping in the 21st Century (240:244/118) ----- End of Forwarded Message ----- STEVEN TURNER G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS. http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/ Email: beeman@zbee.com .. Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 11:55:40 -0500 Reply-To: lawrence@the-link.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lawrence W. Thompson" Subject: Yellow Jacket removal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The lady who tends the flowers and garden at my parish came to me to remove the bees in "her" flower garden. Turns out they are yellow jackets who have made a hive in a mound of dirt around some new plants. As the parish priest, I must say that I have no compunction about removing/ejecting these critters, but how do I do this without killing, maiming or otherwise injuring those "sacred" plants so lovingly installed by this lady, aka the "mother superior"? Thanks. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 13:40:00 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: Yellow Jacket removal Comments: To: lawrence@the-link.net Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/11/98 1:26:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lawrence@the- link.net writes: > The lady who tends the flowers and garden at my parish came to me to > remove the bees in "her" flower garden. Turns out they are yellow > jackets who have made a hive in a mound of dirt around some new plants. > As the parish priest, I must say that I have no compunction about > removing/ejecting these critters, but how do I do this without killing, > maiming or otherwise injuring those "sacred" plants so lovingly > installed by this lady, aka the "mother superior"? Thanks. Soapy water. The chemical companies don't want you to know that, of course. I'd pour it down the hole after dark. Say 3 oz dish detergent in a quart of water. It shouldn't hurt the plants. If it doesn't work, it didn't contact them. For example, you may have some larvae in sealed cells. They may be protected enough so they'll be unhurt and may hatch out. Just do it again in a few days, if you see continued activity. Don't forget though, that yellow jackets are very important preditors of many pest insects. The nest also will die out when cold weather comes. If you can live with them......... Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 19:54:27 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tom Speight Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 9 Aug 1998 to 10 Aug 1998 In-Reply-To: <902808022.2127585.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In message <902808022.2127585.0@uacsc2.albany.edu>, Automatic digest processor writes >Thank You for the info on cedar hives. I will definetly try them. I can't help about the mite query but I believe that the cedar repels waxmoth WHEN NEW. As soon as the bees propolise over the wood, they stop the oils being effective. (Perhaps a rub down with sandpaper may re- vitalise them?) More knowledgable (read expert) than I beekeepers told me that it doesn't work, so I ignored them and put small (6 x 3 1/2 inch) pieces of newly sawn timber in my stored supers and never saw a waxmoth. Guess I was just plain lucky -- Tom S ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 14:47:48 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John A Skinner Subject: Re: Blueberry Pollination Suggestion Comments: To: Nick Shilliff In-Reply-To: <199808101534.LAA15398@mailhost.cas.utk.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Mon, 10 Aug 1998, Nick Shilliff wrote: > Also,RE highbush blueberry pollination.We have had mixed results > effectively pollinating blueberries over the past few years.last year the > bees worked the dandelions across from the blueberries while there were > hundreds/thousands of bumblebees working the blueberries resulting in a > bumper crop.this year we did not put honeybees in the blueberries and > there were not many bumblebees pollinating,resulting in a poor crop.Is > there any reason that the beehives would draw in the bumblebees? I doubt that the colonies or honey bees would draw in the Bombus. Bombus buzz pollinates the blueberry flower by shivering it's flight muscles. This vibration oepns the anthers which are joined together, releasing the pollen. Bee for bee, Bombus is more efficient, but there are three types of blueberry, each could be different to some extent. Highbush, Rabbiteye, and Lowbush. I have experience with Rabbiteye and rely on others for details on the other two. In rabbiteye blueberry, the tongue of the honey bee is too short to get the nectar from the flower which looks like an upside-down bell, being male first with anthers inside the "bell" and female later with the pistil poking through the mouth of the flower like the dauber of a bell. Bombus has a longer tongue and doesn't have a problem getting the nectar. In high bush berries the flower is larger and I've been told that honey bees can go inside, but if bumble bees also visit, more pollen will be released and honey bees and bumble bees can move it around. For Lowbush, I heard an excellent presentation by Tony Jadzak about pollination of berries in Maine using honey bees. What I suggest you have seen is the effect of varying numbers of pollinators. In some years bumble bees are very abundant and are responsible for part of the pollination of a crop. Other years there are fewer Bombus and not enough to reliably pollinate a large acreage crop. I recommend using honey bees every year because other pollinators, although efficient bee for bee, may not be numerous enough to be economical. My nickels worth, grins, John > John A. Skinner 218 Ellington Hall Extension Apiculturist University of Tennessee jskinner@utk.edu Knoxville, TN 37901 (423)974-7138 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 14:43:19 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Kevin D. Parsons" Subject: Yellow Jacket removal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 I've had quite a bit of luck placing a large clear glass jar or bowl over= a yellow jacket hole. Do it at night when they are all in the nest. Try to get a good sea= l between the jar and the ground. The yellow jackets will be able to fly so they won't (usually= ) dig a new exit. But, they can't get out to gather food, so they all die. Can take a week = to finish them all off. Hope it works for you, Kevin > The lady who tends the flowers and garden at my parish came to me to > remove the bees in "her" flower garden. Turns out they are yellow > jackets who have made a hive in a mound of dirt around some new plants.= > As the parish priest, I must say that I have no compunction about > removing/ejecting these critters, but how do I do this without killing,= > maiming or otherwise injuring those "sacred" plants so lovingly > installed by this lady, aka the "mother superior"? Thanks. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 08:11:11 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Swintosky, Michael D." Subject: Blueberry Pollination Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Nick Shilliff wrote: Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Midnitebee Subject: ABF Symposium MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings... An article about the ABF(Colorado) symposium is located here: http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee trivia:who is the Charles & Evelyn Divelbiss Beekeeper of the Year,for 1998? Herb Holly-B Apiary P.O.Box 26 Wells,Maine 04090-0026 http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 08:21:10 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Canon, Hartman" Subject: Russian Bees vs Varroa MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain Just received my latest SCIENCE NEWS vol 154 Aug 8, 1998 which contains an article titled 'RUSSIAN BEES BEE-little Mites' Impact'. Contains discussion on introduction of Russian bees to combat varroa. Contains quotes by Troy Fore of American Beekeeping Federation, Jesup GA., and Kim Flottum, editor of BEE CULTURE, Thomas Rinderer of the USDA honeybee lab in B.R., La. Very interesting. I don't have a scanner or I would submit the whole thing. Can't type either. Probably find it at the library. HBCanon Geneva, FL ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 09:39:36 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Frank Humphrey Subject: Re: Yellow Jacket removal Comments: To: lawrence@the-link.net In-Reply-To: <199808111726.NAA16322@mail4.bellsouth.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > -----Original Message----- > > As the parish priest, I must say that I have no compunction about > removing/ejecting these critters, but how do I do this > without killing, > maiming or otherwise injuring those "sacred" plants so lovingly > installed by this lady, aka the "mother superior"? Thanks. > Mix 1 cup of Dish washing detergent with 1 gallon of water. Pour this in the entrance at night when the yellow jackets are not flying. Get as much inside as possible and soak the ground around it. This devolves the exoskeleton on most insects and they will die. Most dish detergents are biodegradable and should not harm plants. Frank Humphrey ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 11:07:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Midnitebee Subject: Buzz the Schools MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings... It is that time of year where fellow beekeepers will be "teaching" our young adults about the wonderful world of honeybees..I call your attention to the following article: "Let's Buzz the Schools" booklet is a continuing effort to bring agricultural education to the general public and in particular to elementary school teachers and their school children. This booklet contains lesson plans, illustrations, vocabulary, and reference materials. It is designed for children in Kindergarten through 5th grade and will hopefully change some attitudes about a very important industry Beekeeping lesson plans are developed for each appropriate grade level. Level Teachers have a chose of what lesson plans to teach and can use as many as they have time for. They do not need to have a background in beekeeping because materials with the necessary information is provided along with answer sheets. People have misconceptions about bees and this usually develops during childhood. We want to inform the general public through their children. We want to show that the honey bee is a friend, not an enemy; honey bees sting out defense; how they live and function in hives; how man uses the honey bee; and how important they are to mankind. Honey bees play a crucial role in pollination, thus ensuring an abundance of plant foods for man, domestic animals, wildlife and enabling the persistence of plant species. The bee industry is also besieged by more problem than we can puff a smoker at. Americans would stop eating foreign honey if they knew the terrible impact that this unfairly priced imported honey was having on our industry. Home gardeners would be more aware of the care they should take in applying insecticides if they knew the value of bees to their gardens. Education and promotion is the key. We need to work very hard to inform the public as well as our legislative officials about the importance of honey bees to mankind. As beekeepers we should make every effort to get at least one copy in each of our local school libraries. This booklet is being offered at $12.95...postage and handling included. If you would like to obtain a copy, please contact Loretta Surprenant, Box 300 Essex,New York 12936 or call (518) 963-7593. Herb Holly-B Apiary P.O.Box 26 Wells,Maine 04090-0026 http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 10:25:38 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dave Pehling Subject: Re: BUMBLE BEES AND TWO-QUEEN HIVES In-Reply-To: <199808100546.AA13882@coopext.cahe.wsu.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Mon, 10 Aug 1998, Kerry Stewart wrote: > > BUMBLE BEES > > Has anyone details about making a bumble bee hive? ================================ I did not see an answer to Kerry's question..... Try looking at http://www.anet-chi.com/%7Emanytimes/page40.htm for good information about nest boxes. cheers, Dave Pehling ============================================ | W.S.U. COOPERATIVE EXTENSION-SNOHOMISH CO. | | 600 128TH ST. S.E. | | EVERETT, WA. 98208 U.S.A. | | PHONE - (425)338-2400 | | FAX - (425)338-3994 | | EMAIL pehling@wsu.edu | ============================================ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 18:18:26 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: RFC822 error: Incorrect or incomplete address field found and ignored. From: Steve Newcomb Subject: Re: Russian Bees vs Varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The complete text is available at: http://www.sciencenews.org/sn_arc98/8_8_98/fob1.htm ---------- > Just received my latest SCIENCE NEWS vol 154 Aug 8, 1998 which contains an > article titled 'RUSSIAN BEES BEE-little Mites' Impact'. Contains discussion... > HBCanon > Geneva, FL ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 12:06:37 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: No Beetles In Ohio -Forwarded Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Bee cops fail in search for Afro-Beetles in Ohio, as reported on-line in the "Killer Bee and Worm Journal" at: http://beenet.com/bnews.htp It could be that my sources got it rong, if so I am embarrassed and apologize to those who feel they were wronged. It also could be that what the beekeepers involved are finding is not the same as the bee cops or maybe my source was just being prophetic in the information I used to write on 8.7.98 this report: 8.7.98 AFRO-Beetles have been found in six state's and looking. Damage in most cases is NOT expected to be great and control my be as easy as moving to new locations,..often. Several controls includes both chemical and biological. One includes a chemical now used for Fire Ants and registration could be pending label changes. Some questions have not been answered such as if damage is greater closer to the coast and the route this pest used to get to an island off the coast of SC with heavy infestation to bees there reported? The states are SC, FL, GA, OH, ND, and ME. *editor. * Of course you may not have read about this in your local newspapers as its from un-named sources close to the investigation and invasion. Additional information on the Small Hive Beetle indicates that the beetles themselves can live quite a while in the hive but the worms must pupate in the ground. The ground must be moist, about the same moisture that would support fishing worms. This would limit the generations produced in many areas of the country. The worms may also be susceptible to at least two strains of BT. Also it has been reported that Carbolic Acid a chemical once used to drive the bees from honey supers is better at driving the adult beetles out of the hives then the bees. Nothing has been reported on the chemicles now used today in the US to do the same or their effect on the beetles. ttul, the OLd Drone http://beenet.com ---------------The last word from Ohio 8.12.98 as e-mailed from the Chief Michael E. Cooper----------------------- FYI Michael E. Cooper, Chief Bureau of Feeds and Plant Services Phone (208) 332-8620 Fax: (208) 334-2283 -----Original Message----- From: Blane White [SMTP:Blane.White@state.mn.us] Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 1998 6:53 AM To: agpstil@ag.state.nj.us; jbach@agr.wa.gov; mcooper@agri.state.id.us; Feastert@aspb.state.ar.us; hjcksn@clemson.edu; bobr@doa.state.sd.us; deweesc@doacs.state.fl.us; culliney@elele.peacesat.hawaii.edu; Bob.cox@idals.state.ia.us; kathleen_prough_at_dnrlan@ima.isd.state.in.us; gross@kda.state.ks.us; JIMMY_D@ldaf.state.la.us; Don_Hopkins@mail.agr.state.nc.us; mbrown@mail.state.mo.us; smithib@mda.state.md.us; huhden@missc.state.wy.us; lhinck@mt.gov; elevi@mvtel.net; rudloff@odant.agri.state.oh.us; jimmy@pda005.pda.state.pa.us; lvissage@ra.msstate.edu; bob@smtp.dda.state.de.us; HANSENMG@state.mi.us; jcarlson@state.nd.us; mcdonnel@usit.net; ffulgham@vdacs.state.va.us; phibba@wheel.datcp.state.wi.us Subject: No Beetles In Ohio -Forwarded Hi all, Here is a note from Linda in OH simply saying that they have not yet found the small hive beetle in OH. blane **************************************** Blane White MN Dept. of Agriculture St Paul, MN blane.white@state.mn.us <> Message-ID: <3.0.32.19980812084003.0079b830@odant> From: ickes@odant.agri.state.oh.us To: "White@state.mn.us" , Gordon Rudloff Subject: No Beetles In Ohio Date: Wed, 12 Aug 1998 06:40:03 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.0.1460.8) Content-Type: text/plain Our State Inspectors in Ohio have started inspection migratory colonies and colonies that might be more likely to have beetle infestation. As of August 12, 1998, no positive beetle finds have been reported. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 06:14:32 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Beenetuk1 Organization: Amigabee computer networking for beekeepers Subject: National Honey Show 98 web site Now available for download the full Schedule of Classes for The National Honey Show 1998 in England this November. http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/nhs/ Contact: Francis Capener for a printed copy if required. E.Mail: nathon@zbee.com Description: Schedule of Classes + Entry Form File Size: 860.672K Title: nhs98.doc Format: Word97 only (sorry) Available for file request from Beenet 240:44/0 and Fidonet 2:254/215 or /214 STEVEN TURNER G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS. http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/ Email: beeman@zbee.com .. Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 13:19:54 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: bees in TV ad Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Has anyone noticed the nice ad running on TV for the SureTrade.com, a on-line stock trading company? Something does not look right to me, but it could be tired eye's or something but is not the frame upside down with the honey at the bottom and the brood at the top? I guess it makes no difference its really a nice picture and at least its not showing the "killer" bees running the customers into there homes or something, but I would think a stock trading company would want to set the record straight the same as if they made a mistake with someone's trade. For sure I would not want them working in my bee yard if they don't know which end is up. ttul, the OLd Drone (c)Permission is given to copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE AT OWN RISK! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 23:36:47 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rune Stenseth Subject: Bees & Cat death MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings everybody, and thanks for such an informative discussion group. We received our first 4 hives 2 weeks ago, and today we found one of our newly acquired cat a few meters behind the hives, stiff as a log. There was no outer sign of violence or anything other wrong, its tongue was sticking out, but eyes closed and very peacefully dead. She was about 16 weeks old. Question is; can cats die from bee stings? If she played with some near the front of the hive, maybe several stung here, and this was tro much? Anybody has any experience with cats or other animals close to hives? May they become allergic? Best Regards Rune Stenseth Gudmundsrud Farm Algarheim Norway +47 63 98 64 99 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 17:35:16 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Midnitebee Subject: Fw: French beekeepers in USA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings.. I am forwarding the following message.. Herb -----Original Message----- From: PFaure4108@aol.com To: midnitebee@cybertours.com Date: Thursday, August 13, 1998 5:22 PM Subject: French beekeepers in USA >We are a french beekeepers group. >We want to visit a famous bee farm in Canada or in United-states. >We want to see a bee-breeder who speak a little bit french if it's possible. >We want to come in North America next year (1999). >May be you know some bee farm with organized visits. >Could you help me an give me adress or Email. >Thank you in advance. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 16:20:39 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: Bees & Cat death In-Reply-To: <199808132154.OAA15289@mx1.thegrid.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 11:36 PM 8/13/98 +0200, you wrote: >Question is; can cats die from bee stings? If she played with some near the >front of the hive, maybe several stung here, and this was tro much? >Anybody has any experience with cats or other animals close to hives? May they >become allergic? Hi Rune, Sorry to read about your kitten. I have never heard of a cat being allergic to bees and being killed because of bee stings, but I am sure it is possible. I did have a problem with a family of skunks at one time that I found the mother and her three kittens dead. They were covered with bees and I am sure they died from the bee stings which is not the norm as I have watched other skunks scratch on the hives and then pick and eat the bees from their fur for hours at a time and I am sure they were getting stung at the same time. I once had a long haired black dog that would follow me in the bee yard and get stung and try to rub off the bees on the hives only collecting more and I would have to rock him to get him to leave about the time he would be trying to dig a hole with his noise about the only part of him not covered by bees. He always came back for more so I guess they did not hurt him that bad. Had another dog that would hide from the bees in the truck and kill any that got in with her which saved me a few stings at times. ttul, the OLd Drone (c)Permission is given to copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE AT OWN RISK! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 23:34:28 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rich Subject: chalk brood? In-Reply-To: <199808132350.QAA28043@mail.quick.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Sorry for not paying attention to the subject when it has been discussed before, but this is the first time I have seen anybody with chalk brood. What are some of the other treatments besides requeening? Rich ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 06:40:03 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David W Oakes Subject: queenless hive MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I had a hive blow over in the wind this passed summer. The hive is farther from my home and I do not get to the hive as often as I would like. I was told that the hive blew over and the next morning I went and righted the hive. Yesterday I went to remove honey and I found the hive in weakened condition with a smaller number of bees. Wax worms were beginning to form and I found no brood ie..queenless. And there is less honey in the hive today than when I re-righted the hive. This is the only hive in the area that I know, at least 3-4 mile radius. My question to the group is this, probably the queen was lost to the blow-over of the hive, why was not a new queen produced? I cannot remember exactly when the hive was upset, but it had been as least 1.5 months or more. does anyone have an idea? And, what happened to all the honey? Thanks in advance for all your thoughts. Dave O. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 07:06:00 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 22:17:03 -0700 Subject: Re: Bees & Cat death From: shaverjr@juno.com Rune, I have a pigeon lofts close to my hives. On one or two occasions, when the pigeons were returning from flight, the bees perceived them as a threat and attacked, following them into the coop. They stung them about the eyes and several died. Interestingly, they attacked the darker colored pigeons and spared the whites. You might consider getting a white cat. It may be less visible to bees. Jim Shaver, Los Angeles ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 17:36:41 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re Bees and cats Hi Rune and All I am sorry to hear about your cat. I doubt your cat would have been attacked by bees. Interestingly, cats seem not to make bees cross. As an experiment, hold a ball of dogs hair in front of a hive - it will be stung. Same for a feather. Not for a cat. I have had hives go wild once or twice and cats nearby were not affected, but donkeys, cows and sheep/humans further away were seriously stung. My cat sleeps on top of one of my big double brood nest hives in winter as it is warm. You question whether the cat could have had an ellergic reaction and mention it was 16 weeks old. A cat's immune system is complete after about 4 to five weeks of age. At this point it can begin to have an allergic reaction. If it were stung then, followed by another sting/s two weeks later and then a final sting on the bad day it could have died from an allergic reaction, but this process is highly unlikely as cats are very intelligent and learn fast that bees hurt (unlike dogs which bite bees because they hurt). My geuss is, if a bee did kill your cat, it is because it swallowed one and it's throat swelled shut. This does happen. Keep well Garth Garth Cambray Camdini Apiaries Grahamstown Apis mellifera capensis Eastern Cape Prov. South Africa Time = Honey After careful consideration, I have decided that if I am ever a V.I.P the I. may not stand for important. (rather influential, ignorant, idiotic, intelectual, illadvised etc) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:38:19 -0700 Reply-To: JamesCBach Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: JamesCBach Subject: Matthew taking bees from a tree MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are some legal issues you should consider before you do anything to that cottonwood. First, is it protected in the community where it is growing? Second, do you know anything about limb or tree removal? Third, do you have an insurance policy to cover you? Fourth, do you have a signed written agreement with the property owner (not the renter) to alter the look of the tree, if you are not going to remove it entirely? Fifth, does the written agreement protect you if you damage the 1800's shed? People have a way of changing their mind after the damage is done and they see how the tree will look. If you do any cutting, you may out-balance the tree allowing normal winds to move the tree in different directions than at present. Might the tree blow down on some other desirable physical property? This might cause delayed liability issues for you. I think these issues are important whether the tree is in a housing subdivision or on a farm. I know a person who took bees out from behind a partial brick and wood exterior wall. The owner acknowledged that the mortar couldn't be matched and verbally agreed to the operation. When it was all over the mortar was white compared to the weathered mortar. The homeowner sued, won, and the beekeeper had to pay to remove the brick wall and have it reinstalled so that it looked the same throughout. Quite a cost for a large swarm of bees! James C. Bach jbach@agr.wa.gov jcbach@yvn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 09:36:47 -0700 Reply-To: JamesCBach Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: JamesCBach Subject: Propolis in coveralls; gloves or elastic MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thomas Cornick: Here in WA they sell a product called Spray'NWash. It is the best product I've found to do the job. Spray the Spray'NWash on the heaviest stains then put your coveralls and gloves in the washer with a low or medium warm water level. Add detergent and 1/4 to 1/2 cup Spray'NWash. When the elastic wears out, perhaps replace it. Cut a slice in the hem of the sleeves or leg ends, clip and or remove the elastic. Cut another piece of elastic and put a small safety pin through the end. Close the pin and feed it through the hem. Tie the ends of the elastic together giving the right tension that you desire. Slip the knot into the cut in the hem. You have replaced the elastic. Slip the knot back out of the hem if you want to retie it tighter or looser. Or wear gloves. Or use velcro elastic bands. Or sew a piece of 3/4 inch elastic together to make the proper size wrist band to go over your folded sleeves. James C. Bach jbach@agr.wa.gov jcbach@yvn.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 17:52:28 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Slade Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 11 Aug 1998 to 12 Aug 1998 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Frank Humphrey exaggerates rather when he says that a detergent solution dissolves the exoskeleton of insects. What it does is to wash off the waxy outer coat which prevents water penetration of the insect in either direction (in or out). Without this waxy coat the insect dehydrates and dies. The exoskeleton itself will be intact. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 19:49:10 -0400 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Eyre Organization: The Bee Works Subject: Re: chalk brood? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Date sent: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 23:34:28 -0700 Send reply to: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rich Subject: chalk brood? To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Sorry for not paying attention to the subject when it has been discussed > before, but this is the first time I have seen anybody with chalk brood. > What are some of the other treatments besides requeening? I for one am not convinced that re-queening is necessary. On the one occasion I found chalk brood I added a ventilated hive top, and it disappeared. All the 'books' say requeen, and the last time I stepped out of line I got stomped on. So you takes yer chances! ******************************************** The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, Orillia, ON, Canada.L3V 6H1 Phone- 705-326 7171. Fax 705 325 3461. North American agents. E.H.Thorne(UK)Ltd. Ventilated Hives and Equipment David Eyre... Owner http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks ********************************************* ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 19:49:10 -0400 Reply-To: beeworks@muskoka.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Eyre Organization: The Bee Works Subject: (Fwd) bee venom MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: Quoted-printable ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- From: "=C7=E8=ED=EE=E2=FC=E5=E2" To: Subject: bee venom Date sent: Fri, 14 Aug 1998 10:39:17 +0400 Dear sirs, we are show by producer representatives of bee poison and have a possibility of its sale. High quality Product. Characteristics: 1. Discription - grey-yellow powder. 2. Water content, % - 5,4. 3. Insoluble in water impurities, % - 1,1. 4. Total ash, % - 1,3. 5. Hemolysis time, second - 140. 6. Activity of phospholipase, IU - 173. 7. Melittin content, % - 62,0. However this market for us new and we ask You prompt who needed to offer such goods. We shall You are grateful, if You report us an address of potential buyer. In the event of the interest we will send additional information. The Greater thank you. Best regards, Zinoviev A. Company AgriS Moscow Russia Tel. 095 2844649 http://www.agris.comtel.ru Does this interest anyone, if so, please answer them direct. ******************************************** The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, Orillia, ON, Canada.L3V 6H1 Phone- 705-326 7171. Fax 705 325 3461. North American agents. E.H.Thorne(UK)Ltd. Ventilated Hives and Equipment David Eyre... Owner http://www.muskoka.net/~beeworks *********************************************