========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 02:12:37 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Frederic Andros Subject: Re: Andrew & Tiffany Dubas : my mother has MS, Venom therapy ? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dubie, Regarding apitherapy questions, it's best to consult the world-renowned Dr. Stefan Stangaciu of Romania, an apitherapy expert at apither@gmb.ro Also the APITHER WEB site at < http://www.sci.fi > Good luck, Charles F. Andros NH/VT Apiary Inspector '78-=9289 Linden Apiaries 1 McLean Road POB 165 Walpole, NH 03608-0165 USA/EUA 603-756-9056 phone/fax if notified by phone email: lindena@sover.net Residence: Latitude: 43=B0 05=92 North, Longitude: 72=B0 21=92 15=94 Wes= t, Elevation 362 meters. Keeper of 41 two-queen colonies for honey, pollen, propolis, pollination, nuclei, beeswax, apitherapy, and education. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 18:42:04 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: my mother has MS, Venom therapy ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Bee Venom Therapy Conditions, techniques, and testimonials http://www.beesting.com/bvt.html ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 19:49:18 -0400 Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Palmer Organization: French Hill Apiaries Subject: Re: my mother has MS, Venom therapy ? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Get in toutch with Charles Mraz, Middlebury, Vermont. His reputation with bee venom therapy is world-wide. If you can't get your mother to see him, he could probably refer her to someone close to your area. Andrew & Tiffany Dubas wrote: > Does anyone know about Venom therapy ? My mother has multiple sclerosis and > I have plenty of bees, but don't know much about how many stings, where to > sting and so on, also she is very afraid of the sting of the bee, can some > one recommend a sting kill cream or something ? any help on this would be > great because though my mother can still get around and would say the MS is > medium in severity it is going down hill. thanks for the help... > > Andrew "dubie" > > PS thanks for the people who replied about the PARA moth at wal-mart. saved > me money ! ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 20:00:47 -0400 Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Palmer Organization: French Hill Apiaries Subject: Robbing yard results MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My home yard consists of two overwintered colonies, and five nucs started in May. It's located in a wooded area where the bees rarely make surplus honey. I use the yard to clean up my extracted supers before winter storage. I removed 1300 lbs from these seven colonies. My total crop this year was 80000 lbs. Equals about 1-50th of the total crop. Significant I do think! No I don't have any AFB, or have any neighboring bee yards at risk even if I did. Mike ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 20:55:36 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: George W Imirie Subject: Re: my mother has MS, Venom therapy ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit The American "Founding Father" of apitherapy is Charlie Mraz in New Hampshire. The "most cured" MS patient and leading exponent of apitherapy for MS is Pat Wagner, Lucy Lane, Waldorf, Maryland. Both of these apitherapy people have written superb books, available from most of the bee equipment houses like Root, Dadant, Brushy Mountain, etc. Contact them. I wish I knew the email addresses of Charlie and Pat, but I don't. George Imirie ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:16:50 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Ralph W. Harrison" Subject: Re: my mother has MS, Venom therapy ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Hi Andrew, Go to this web site www.beesting.com. It has a wealth of info on Bee Venom Therapy Regards, Ralph ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 21:09:46 +1100 Reply-To: brownie@eck.net.au Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Anne Brown Organization: Brown's of 'Snake Hill' Subject: Re: Brazil Experience MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gauthier Buddy J wrote: > > Ana Merlo, a beekeeper in Brazil said it also could have been 2 > other things; Eucalyptus or Sugar Cane. I'm not familiar with eucalyptus at > all, so I can not comment. > G'day Buddy, The dark colour of the comb had nothing to do with the bees being on eucalyptus. Most Australian bees spend most of their time on eucalypts (there are about 500 varieties) and while the honey and wax vary in colour I have never heard of dark brown. I agree with Kathy (?), those little bees left their blankets behind! A little more on eucalypt honeys for those interested. We have our bees permanently in an area where, over a two year period they gather pollen and honey from about six varieties of eucalypts. The resultant honey varies in colour from pale gold when the yellow box flow is on, through to dark reddish ironbark. Some, like grey box crystalise easily while others never do. Because we do not move our hives, we tend to get mixed varieties. The colour of the wax too varies considerably. Last year we had a very heavy flow of grey box, capped in almost pure white. I am particularly careful when cleaning the uncappings from yellow box as the wax is brilliant yellow, almost the colour of a free range egg yolk. This makes wonderful candles, Anne Brown Browns Busy Bees 'Snake Hill', Victoria, Australia ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 06:52:13 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andrew & Tiffany Dubas Subject: thank you for the info on MS Comments: To: Beekeeper MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just wanted thank all of you who responded to my questions on Venom therapy :) We did find a Dr in Allentown , PA who will do it. I would not mind doing it since I have bees but don't want to take chances with things Im not sure of. So thanks again Andrew "Dubie" ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:09:51 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Ross Rounds Rimantas Zujus says I'd like to know what is this "Ross Round sections". Maybe, I could see it in the web? Please see http://www.rossrounds.com. Later this year the site will be revised, and will have several photos included. If you wish additional information it can be requested directly from the web site. Lloyd LloydSpear@email.msn.com Owner, Ross Rounds the finest in comb honey production. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 17:34:40 +0300 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: Two queen systems or better RossRounds MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit something on <<. on http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/RossRounds.html include convertion to our WBC hive greeting jan Rimantas Zujus wrote: > "Ross Round sections". Maybe, I could see it in the web? > Rimantas Zujus ------------------------------------------------- home of the drone frame method. de darreraat methode ------------------------------------------------- http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html Jan Tempelman mailto:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 ------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 09:39:37 -0600 Reply-To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Matthew Subject: Bee Vacuum construction info MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit (this is a copy of my post to Sci.agriculture.beekeeping for the benefit of Bee-L members) ------------- Just a follow-up to the message floating about on bee-vacuums. These are really easy to make and are COMPLETELY invaluable in catching hard-to reach swarms or removing existing hives. I've modified the design of another beekeeper to accept most any wet-vac or other vacuum to hook up to the box. The most important thing with bee-vacuums is that you need to regulate the pressure so it doesn't whip the bees into the inside 'bee-catcher" box (which has sidewall vents made of harware mesh and allows air to pass & suck up into the vacuum, trapping the bees behind the mesh inside the box). If they hit the inside box too hard, they'll die. It's a very depressing feeling to find thousands of dead bees inside the vacuum so please pay close attention to the amount of suction. If you have too much, you'll feel their bodies bump hard down the vacuum hose - just the right amount & you can barely feel them fly down the hose. All you need is just enough suction to make it halfway annoying (to you & the bees) on trying to vacuum them off their comb (or tree...etc). Too much & they'll rip right off their comb (& the rip the bees off nearby comb) but you'll find them all dead inside the box. Just the right amount lets a few try to hang onto the inside top-edge of the hose for a second...before getting sucked into the inside box. Thinking of building your own? If you catch swarms or wish to pull feral hives, you'll absolutely want to buy or build a bee-vacuum (provided electricity is close by). Here's the idea: Inside box - rectangular shape box with a removable bottom (mine slides on & off) and has hardware mesh on either side. Cut a single 2" hole to match up to a vacuum hose which is inserted through both the vacuum box & this box.....i.e..direct connection to the outside vacuum hose. Vacuum box: - holds the inside box which contain the bees. You'll cut two openings: first for the outside hose to attach to the inside box and second to attach to any vacuum device (I use a 2 hp wet-vac which I removed off the top of a $30 vac from Wal-mart - this is removable and you can insert a 2" hose from another wet-vac if you need more pressure - ...any vacuum device which hook up to the 2" hole I've cut at the top. Inside this vacuum box, you'll need to brace the inside box to keep it from being sucked up to the vacuum (I use a couple 1" wood blocks). As well, you need about 1/2" to 1" around the two wire-mesh sides of the inside box so air flow can get sucked out (leaving the bees contained). The kicker is the regulation of the air-flow.....all you need to do is cut a 2" or so hole on the top of the box (at least 6" away from the vacuum) and use wire-mesh to keep nearby bees from entering. To regulate the pressure, cut a piece of plastic, tin, tape....anything and mount it to a screw above the hole. This way you can move the piece in front of the hole in varying degrees and it'll cut off outside air from entering as it forces more air to pull through the vacuum hose. Any dimensions will work. I've read of one beekeeper using a lunch boxe to catch bees. (Though I've rarely seen the opportunity to catch such a small bunch of bees....nor would I want to). During swarm season, you might need several inside boxes.....when one gets full, just pull it out of the vacuum box & insert another (tape the exposed hole on the full box, or use a sqare piece of something which swivels open & closed manually). Mine cost around $140 with fine 1/2" pressboard flamed maple and clear-coat. If I used 1/2" plywood, I could have built the thing for $20-$30 (plus another $30-$35 for the 2hp vacuum, if needed). The inside boxes can be constructed of any most any sturdy material. Other particulars: Cardboard won't work (I've tried) as the force of suction from even a 1 hp motor will crumple the box into nothing. 1/2" wood is what I used for the outside box and 1/8" for the inside boxes. Plastic edge-guard (normally used on drywall) is good material for the rails on the bottom of the inside boxes, so you could simply slide open the bottom of the box & knock the bees out into a hive. My outside box has a hinged top & bottom so I can quickly remove the inside boxes. Any method of removing the inside box (& bees) is fine. If I can ever find the time to draw up the design I'll post the address here. (or, perhaps I'll find the time to make a video) This idea has saved me hundreds of stings and saved the lives of alot of bees (I wouldn't pull feral hives without one). If you've ever tried to remove an existing feral hive without a bee-vacuum, I'm sure you've sworn off ever doing it again. Try it by vacuuming off the majority of bees first - then remove the comb one by one & vacuum the bees off each comb as you go. With less bees in the air & on the ground you'll have less of a chance at any unhappy bee-meeting. Plus the bees seem to know they're in trouble when you vacuum off most of their population - the rest will likely remain extremely timid. At the end of the day you'll have more salvageable comb (put back into empty frames and tie with cotton string or rubber-bands) cleaner honey (without 1000's of bee-parts) and a bunch more live bees. The idea behing the 'bee-vacuum' is exceptionally simple in design and you'll have much more fun in retrieving swarms or hives. Good luck. Matthew Westall in Castle Rock, CO ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 14:12:08 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Swintosky, Michael D." Subject: Meeting with Richard Taylor Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >The Carroll County Bee Club is pleased to announce a meeting with Richard >Taylor. A long time beekeeper, author, columnist and philosopher, Dr. Taylor >will be speaking on "New Methods of Comb Honey Production". There will be >ample time for questions and answers. > >Place: Stark State College > Advanced Technology Center > Canton, Ohio > (call or email for map/directions) >Date: Saturday, October 24 >Time: 1:00-3:00 PM >Title: "New Methods of Comb Honey Production" >Cost: $4, pre-registration only! > Seating is limited to 70 people. Please register by October 17. >Checks can be made payable to "Carroll County Bee Club", and should be sent >to: Mike Swintosky, 242 Clay Road, Dellroy, OH 44620. >Questions may be directed to Mike via evening phone at (330) 735-2865, or >email at swintosk@timken.com. > >We will be raffling off some interesting items to help offset the balance of >the costs. > >An assortment of drinks and snack items will be provided, including honey >baked goods. > >For those planning to eat lunch locally, there is a wide selection of >restaurants in the Belden Village area, including the food court inside >Belden Village Mall. > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 14:33:18 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andrew & Tiffany Dubas Subject: my bee vacume Comments: To: Beekeeper MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I use a 5 gallon plastic bucket, with a hole cut in like where you would put a gate in. also a hole in the lid to fit the hose, I put a piece of PVC in the lid hole and put a notch in it to hold a draw string. inside the bucket is a cake cooling rack propped up so it is off the bottom so air can pass freely, I use an old metal lamp shade that is round the metal farme of the lamp shade fits inside the cloth bag which gives it support, both sides of the cloth bag have draw strings. the bottom stays closed until I remove the bees, the top of the bag is rubber banded around the PVC coming down from the lid with the notch in it, the draw string from the top of the bag is in the notch so when the bag is full of bees I just reach down and pull up the pvc piece and that tightens the draw string closing the bees in the bag for easy transportation. just put a new bag in and Im ready for more. fairly easy to assemble. I heated the pvc to expand the one side so it does not fall down through the hole in the lid. and to pull the pvc up when the bees are full I took a small piece of coat hanger shaped in a half circle and drilled 2 holes in the sides of the pvc to accommodate the coat hanger and because of the shape it does not block the hole. and the bottom hole will fit and shop vac and the top hole is threaded to put the other hose in, so in general the bottom hole is connected to the vac the top hole is for the hose to suck the bees in, they get sucked into the net unharmed, I have had very little death of bees doing this. do you all follow me ? hard to explain. talk to you all later. Dubie ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 22:06:49 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ken Hoare Subject: OILSEED RAPE - Three questions??? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [1] Do the hybrid varieties of Oilseed Rape produce nectar/pollen as profusely as the older varieties? [2] Are the glucose/fructose levels similar? [3] Do the hybrid varieties granulate any slower? Ken Hoare bees@kenlia.enta.net ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:38:00 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Caldeira Subject: Texas Beekeepers Convention, Nov 5-7 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This year's format and final agenda have not been communicated to the TBA membership yet, so what follows is a tentative agenda. Some of it is based on events of past years' conventions: TEXAS BEEKEEPERS ASSOCIATION ANNUAL CONVENTION Where: Tyler Texas (100 miles east of Dallas), Sheraton-Tyler Hotel When: November 5 - 7 (Thursday - Saturday) THURSDAY AFTERNOON WORKSHOPS 1. Basic beekeeping (Videos) 2. Queen Rearing - Jenter System by Robert Hutchinson - Raising Queens for a Commercial Operation by Steve Coplin Thursday Evening: Social "bee buzz" - Typically a cash bar event - Good time to renew old acquaintances, meet our honey queens, and make new bee-friends. FRIDAY A.M., FRIDAY P.M. & SATURDAY A.M. - PROGRAMS TENTATIVE PROGRAM TOPICS (partial list) Small Hive Beetle - James Baxter Varroa Resistance to Fluvalinate - Dr. Frank Eischen Characterizing Varroa Resistance - Dr. Patricia Elzen Resistance to Varroa - Dr. Jeff Pettis Price of Honey in '99 - Dr. Carl Shaefer (The above looks heavy on mites, but the agenda typically end-up well-rounded) Several of the national organizations (e.g., National Honey Board) also typically give reports. Friday Queens Luncheon ($15). WORKSHOPS (Friday and/or Saturday) Effective Displays at Fairs - John Talbert Newsletters - Linda Smith Making Mead - to be announced SATURDAY P.M. Typically a business meeting, which can get, ehhh,... interesting on topics like National Honey Board assessments, trade protectionism, etc. SATURDAY NIGHT A banquet ($20), often with queen's auction. For Hotel reservations, call the Sheraton-Tyler direct (not their 800 number - they don't have the special rate info) at (903) 561-5800. The Sheraton room rate is $65+tax. Dealers of bee equipment typically display their wares that can be browsed during breaks. The convention is an easy place to ask questions, get advice, and share thinking with fellow beekeepers. Great for beginners as well as more -experienced beekeepers, hobbyists and commercial beekeepers alike. Registration is $40 in advance, usually a little more at the door. To register in advance, contact Jimmie Oakley (TBA Treasurer) at jloakley@juno.com for details. My apologies for not giving more detailed agenda items. The organizers apparently are still working it, but thought some of you might like to make plans now. Hope to see some BEE-Lers and sci.agriculture beekeepers there! Regards, John John Caldeira jcaldeira@earthlink.net Dallas, Texas, USA http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/ ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:22:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Canola Ken Hoare asks questions about oil seed/rape. Ken, Bee Culture had an excellent article about this crop, the hybrids, and its nectar within the past three months. See http://www.airoot.com. Lloyd LloydSpear@email.msn.com Owner, Ross Rounds the finest in comb honey production. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 18:05:07 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Re: my mother has MS, Venom therapy ? In-Reply-To: <199810010659.CAA26203@newport.ntcnet.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > The "most cured" MS patient and leading exponent of apitherapy for MS is Pat > Wagner, Lucy Lane, Waldorf, Maryland. > Both of these apitherapy people have written superb books, available from most > of the bee equipment houses like Root, Dadant, Brushy Mountain, etc. Contact > them. > I wish I knew the email addresses of Charlie and Pat, but I don't. You can find Pat Wagner at beelady@olg.com (www.olg.com/beelady). Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 1 Oct 1998 13:31:36 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Paul Nicholson Subject: Re: Bee Vacuum construction info Comments: To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com In-Reply-To: <199810011659.JAA11255@alto1.altonet.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, I just use a regular wet/dry shop vac and a variac (variable transformer) to slow down the motor. Or if you don't have a variac, you can uses a thyristor motor speed controller or lamp dimmer of sufficient wattage. Thyristor lamp dimmers are available in electrical stores, but the common ones are limited to 600 watts, which is OK for a 2/3 horsepower motor or less. Vacumn Cleaners use brush type motors which are OK to use with thyristor speed/dimmer controllers. For a 2 HP moter you need a 1500 or so watt dimmer. Paul "BRONX ANODD" (tm) in organic forms with full American violence emitting, is three-dimensional curves demonstrate mystic movements as if they were of unknown life. The body with well trained muscles but no extra flesh dashes is the dark with sharpened knife-like brilliance emitting. Now, nobody can stand in his way "BRONX ANODD" has just released hot. -- English language ad copy for alloy wheels from "Option, Communication Car Magazine", March 1998 issue, Japan. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 09:03:05 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Effects of Bayvarol and Apistan on Acarine (Dr Max Wa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT The following message was submitted by to BEE-L list at CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU. It has been edited to improve format. ------------------ Original message (ID=35BACD) ------------------------------- Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 13:41:35 +0100 To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dr Max Watkins Subject: Re: Effects of Bayvarol and Apistan on Acarine In-Reply-To: <907102296.1014862.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> Hi Tom, In message <907102296.1014862.0@uacsc2.albany.edu>, Computer Software Solutions Ltd writes >Hello All >... >What effects if any has the use of Bayvarol and Apistan on the Acarine mite >- acarapis woodi? Neither product has any real effect on Acarapis; you need to use a vapour-producing treatment. > >He is presently putting Bayvarol strips into some of his hives to >combat acarine. He does not yet have varroa. I heard that it is not >advisable to use a varroa treatment when varroa is not present, and >told him so. > Yes, I agree. Why waste money treating if there's nothing to treat? Even if there are 1 or 2 mites why treat? Eventually you may need to but until it's at a threatening population level, why bother? >He is also putting methylsalicylate into his hives ... > No comment, except it's dangerous and illegal. -- Dr Max Watkins Director, Vita (Europe) Limited, UK ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 13:41:35 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dr Max Watkins Subject: Re: Effects of Bayvarol and Apistan on Acarine In-Reply-To: <907102296.1014862.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Hi Tom, In message <907102296.1014862.0@uacsc2.albany.edu>, Computer Software Solutions Ltd writes >Hello All > >I was talking with a beekeeper friend today. He is not on the internet and >he asked me to put the following question. > >What effects if any has the use of Bayvarol and Apistan on the Acarine mite >- acarapis woodi? Neither product has any real effect on Acarapis; you need to use a vapour-producing treatment. > >He is presently putting Bayvarol strips into some of his hives to combat >acarine. > >He does not yet have varroa. I heard that it is not advisable to use a >varroa treatment when varroa is not present, and told him so. > Yes, I agree. Why waste money treating if there's nothing to treat? Even if there are 1 or 2 mites why treat? Eventually you may need to but until it's at a threatening population level, why bother? >He is also putting methylsalicylate into his hives, by soaking a piece of >absorbent material in the methylsalicylate, tieing this on the end of a >stick and pushing this into the hive entrance to combat acarine also. > No comment, except it's dangerous and illegal. >This was a very bad summer in Ireland, and for this reason he felt that the >bees will go into winter under stress and hence liable to disease. Hence his >pre occupation with remedies. > >What do the members of the list think of the above? > >Thanks for any replies. > >Sincerely > >Tom Barrett >49 South Park >Foxrock >Dublin 18 >Ireland > >e mail cssl@iol.ie >Tel + 353 1 289 5269 >Fax + 353 1 289 9940 > >Latitude 53 Degrees 16' North >Longitude 6 Degrees 9' West of Greenwich -- Dr Max Watkins Director, Vita (Europe) Limited, UK ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 08:33:24 -0500 Reply-To: boby@lakecountry.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob Young Subject: top-bar hives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was wondering about top-hives; any comments good or bad would be appreciated. This looks like the way to go for a person who has just a couple of hives. How about honey production; how much compared to standard hives? I only have five hives now; (my first year), and the thought of having to get all that equipment next year to extract and store supers is not pleasant. I keep bees with my father who is in his seventies and top bar hives would be a lot less weight for him to deal with. From my previous message; it is common to start fall nucs in east Texas, usa. Thanks, Bob Lindale,TX,USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 11:33:10 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Wilkerson Subject: Top Bar Hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bob, Here are some of the observations I have had since June in keeping TBH's. Benefits: They are cheap to build and maintain. No foundation. No special frames. No critiacl dimensions. No storage problems due to supers and brood chambers. Easy to move. Ease of harvesting honey without opening but the smallest amount of hive. Adjustable hive volume all in one easy to build box No heavy lifting and all the frames can be positioned at waist height. Easy to cut and trim comb to fit or correct problems. Easy to assemble with drywall screws and wood glue. No finger joints needed. Problems: Being the top bars rest side by side they can be difficult to align due to bees in crack and propolis build up. Special rack needed to hold frames after they are removed from hive. You can never set a frame down or lean it against the box. Lots of roaches/spiders living in the unutalized back portion of the box. (I keep a movable divider in the hive to adjust the total amout of hive voulume.) "Central Florida " Still waiting for the first snake. More careful handling of comb due to no frame work for added support. Tendency to build combs 90 degrees from the direction you want. Be sure to seed the top bar with wax and correct any problems early. I try to never add more than two empty top bars side by side. I seperate the brood or honey frames and mix in fresh combless topbars. This helps control comb direction. I have the benefit of keeping my hives in my back yard and can check them weekly if needed. Note: The hives I keep are 42" long. 10.5" at the base 16" at the top and 10.25" tall. This give me about a 15 degree slope for the side and I have very little comb attatchement to the wall and none to the bottom. The hive holds 29 or 30 bars, each 18.5 wide with a .5 x .25 wood strip, that I wax, used to seed the center of the bar. The enterance is at one end and not the center. I designed the hive to be build from standard 1" x 6" and 1" x 8" and 1" x 12" lumber with minimual cutting and scrap. Doing it again I would make the top bars 19" in length so that they could be inserted into standard hives but that is a moot point being I keep no Langstroth hives. john wilkerson ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 13:36:29 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Medders Subject: TMC Bulletin Board Hi Everyone, I enjoy reading all of your posts each day. I just wanted to let you know about the Beekeeping Bulletin Board at The Mining Co., if you get a chance stop by and browse the board and post a reply if you can help someone. I know they would appreciate your comments. Take Care and Thanks. Beekeeping Bulletin Board:http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mpboards.htm Kind Regards, Sherry Medders beekeeping.guide@miningco.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 18:29:30 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Slade Subject: collecting feral bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit The bee vacuum cleaner sounds a bit brutal if it causes that many casualties. Often one is able to drive bees from their comb to the container of one's choice by setting up a vibration. The technique is to smoke the colony lightly from below. Place a shaded skep or new hive above the colony making sure it is smoke free, dark and that the bees have a bridge to walk up into it. Start drumming with your hands on the hive/box/skep/branch containing the colony at a pace similar to your pulse beat if you're not too excited. Don't be too energetic - you may need to keep going for half an hour. The bees will peaceably move upwards into the skep enabling you to remove the comb without interference. You can treat the driven bees as a swarm or re-unite with them with their brood comb when tied into frames in the way you described. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 16:28:22 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Paul Nicholson Subject: Re: collecting feral bees In-Reply-To: <199810022311.QAA23635@alto1.altonet.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 18:29 -0400 10/2/98, Christopher Slade wrote: >The bee vacuum cleaner sounds a bit brutal if it causes that many casualties. Make sure the flow is slow enough, then you won't harm the bees. I know, I killed a few thousand before I got out my variac to slow down the shop vac. Paul ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 17:30:28 -0600 Reply-To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Matthew Subject: Re: collecting feral bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Christopher & all, I'm not sure if you were referring to my post on the construction of a bee vacuum cleaner, but this answer might help. If your setting is right for the vacuum-suction, you shouldn't kill more than 20-30 bees in vacuuming 20-30,000 bees. My setting is so low that I'm usually tapping on the hose & junction of the box to get the bees to move through to the collection box. On the other hand, if your' setting is too high, you'll likely kill over half of them (dead bees make a good cushion for new bees entering the box - though this is a heartbreaking thing to find after all the hard work in catching the bees). Two or three beekeepers e-mailed me with different bee-vacuum's - one made out of a plastic bucket. Anyone have a picture of theirs to share? I'll post pictures of mine as soon as I find a digital camera. For next year, I'll be modifying some heavy guage plastic hose (found at Home Depot in the pool/plumbing section) which is completely smooth on the inside bore. I'm sure this will make a good deal of difference over the normal bumpy hose. I'll also find some heavy-gauge clear plastic to make another bee-vacuum with so I can see the air-flow and the bees being vacuumed into their box. Matthew Christopher Slade wrote: > The bee vacuum cleaner sounds a bit brutal if it causes that many > casualties. > Often one is able to drive bees from their comb to the container of > one's > choice by setting up a vibration. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 2 Oct 1998 20:00:30 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Al Needham Subject: Re: Top Bar Hive " For Everything You Wanted To Know About Top Bar Hives, But Were Afraid To Ask " Visit Jim Satterfield's Super Web Site On TBH's at: http://www.gsu.edu/biojdsx/main.htm Jim lives in Georgia, USA Al .......................................................... <"Mailto: awneedham@juno.com" > Scituate,Massachusetts,USA The Beehive-Educational Honey Bee Site Visit The Beehive Book Shoppe http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 18:41:26 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Al Needham Subject: Correction On URL TBH Web Site Correct address therefor is : http://www.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/main.htm Jim Satterfield's TBH Web Site I left out the tilde in front of biojdsx. Al <"Mailto: awneedham@juno.com" > Scituate,Massachusetts,USA The Beehive-Educational Honey Bee Site Visit The Beehive Book Shoppe http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 13:48:49 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ricky Holden Subject: Wax Worms are put to good use! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Found a hive that died from mites in my yard yesterday. Had lots of wax worms in the combs. Now I've worked up a great dislike of those little critters but having a fishing trip planned the next day I latched on to a grand idea. I threw a few of them little wigglers in a can with some moist oak leaves. Next day me and the youngins went to the fishin hole. Bluegills and shellcrackers loved them. Guess their good for something. Oh , by the way don't send any, I got plenty!! Rick, from Florida ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 16:26:34 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Peter Dalby Subject: Hydrofluoric Acid as a sterilant MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of the British Beekeepers magazines "Beecraft" has published a letter from a reader suggesting the use of hydrofluoric acid for fumigation of beehives to kill wax moth. I know it is a very dangerous compound to use and safety data sheets on the product bear this out. Does anybody have any comments on its effectiveness or specific dangers and risks to humans or to bees or bee products before I formulate a reply to this magazine? Thanks for any help. Peter Dalby, Chairman BBKA Technical Committee. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 10:58:57 -0400 Reply-To: dublgully@worldnet.att.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Gaida Subject: collecting feral bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Let me explain our bee vacuum. The more you use it, the more design changes you come up with. First I'll explain the current box, then explain the changes we have in mind. The vacuum is made with two boxes, the bottom box is an old regular deep hive body with a piece of plywood nailed on the bottom. The handholds allow an easy lift. We have a hole cut out on the bottom half of one side which accepts the vacuum hose. We have a sliding door (made from a piece of vinyl siding fascia, shape: _| , with two small pieces of scrap wood holding it to the box and allowing it to slide up and down.) that is over the vacuum hole, when we are done with the suction, we remove the hose and close the sliding door. The inside of the box opposite the vacuum is covered with carpet padding to help the bee's landing to be a bit softer. The next item up from the bottom box is a frame built the same size as the box with mesh screen in it. There are latches to secure this frame to the bottom. This allows you to remove the second box and shake the bees down before you remove the screen to shake the bees into their new home. Of course, it also prevents the bees from being sucked up into the vacuum. The next item up is a second box. This box is a medium super with a piece of plywood nailed on as a top. The plywood has a hole cut in it to accept the vacuum hose. We have a bunch of 1/8" holes drilled in about a 3" x 3" area. There is a similar slide over these holes to allow control of the amount of suction and to allow air into the box after the bees are in. This box has latches to secure it to the bottom box. If you have a long trip home, you can take the top box off for more air, or just open the slide over the holes. We use a gas powered blower/vac. You can adjust the speed of the vac right on the engine. We aren't always fortunate to have electricity by us when we collect bees. The flow of air is: /|\ /|\ |-----| ____|___|______ | | | /|\ | |______________| | /|\ | | |_ | < < < | <<< |_______________| Our changes will be to allow enough suction at the end of the hose to collect the bees, but to relieve it as it approaches the box. We plan on adding some plumbing pipe to the box where the bees enter. The opening right at the box will be about 8" or so in diameter, then come out about a foot or two and reduce to 4" or so, then come out further and reduce to regular suction hose size. These changes are in the planning stages so we aren't sure if the diffusion will be sufficient to reduce damage to the bees and still allow adequate suction at the collection end. Then we will reduce the actual end of the suction tube to about 1". Hopefully, the bees will be sucked in at 1", then after 2" or so the diameter is raised to 1 1/2", to relieve some of the pressure. We are also going to insert a glass insert in the side of the box to allow us to watch the bees as they are being collected and monitor their progress or lack thereof. Any suggestions, corrections, or ideas will be welcome. I saw on sci.agriculture.beekeeping that Brushy Mountain is going to be carrying a vacuum in 1999. Hopefully it will work to save the bees. Loving these bees, Judy ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 07:13:29 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Mordenti Subject: propolis production MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello, I'm trying to find information on propolis production. Trap design, environmental concerns..etc... If you can point me to a site or book, I would appreciate it. Thanks, ~Mike Mordenti ( Mordenti Apiaries ) ~11 hives of Italian bees and growing ~8 years in apiculture ~email mmore@ptd.net ~Webpage- http://www.angelfire.com/mo/beekeeping ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 06:59:08 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Frederic Andros Subject: APISTAN MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="x-user-defined" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have recently talked to commercial beekeepers who think they can leave supers of honey on the hives while stripping the mites, then put that sup= er on the bottom of the hive, let the bees clean it out, then later use that same super for honey storage and extract the honey. They think that beca= use they didn=92t put a strip right in that box, it=92s okay to use for honey production. If this is so, then I suppose it=92s okay to treat at any ti= me, as long as no strips are put in the honey supers. Sorry, but that=92s not what it says on the label: "Remove honey supers before application of APISTAN strips, and do not replace until the end of the control period." Pesticides should be used according to the label to avoid pollution of was in honey supers, and contamination of honey. I use only deep boxes for brood, and smaller ones for surplus honey, and remove all of the shallows and mediums prior to mite treatments. Any equipment you use during the Apistan treatment should be marked so you kn= ow never to extract honey from it. Consider it contaminated! Don=92t eat h= oney from treated equipment while working your bees! It=92s a fact that Apist= an accumulates in beeswax. Charles F. Andros NH/VT Apiary Inspector '78-=9289 Linden Apiaries 1 McLean Road POB 165 Walpole, NH 03608-0165 USA/EUA 603-756-9056 phone/fax if notified by phone email: lindena@sover.net Residence: Latitude: 43=B0 05=92 North, Longitude: 72=B0 21=92 15=94 West= , Elevation 362 meters. Keeper of 41 two-queen colonies for honey, pollen, propolis, pollination, nuclei, beeswax, apitherapy, and education. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 12:50:36 GMT+0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garth Organization: Rhodes University South Africa Subject: Re: Top bar hives + and - Hi Bob You mention your interest in top bar hives: I can give you some positive and negative apsects of these: +ve Cheap More natural for bees to live in - ie not trying to constrain bees into a shape that is good for transport, but not for them. One can make entrance holes right down the side consisting of cork size holes near the top of the hive box - as the hive grows these can be opened. Bees can guard a hole much better, and can ventilate such a hive very effectively. When working such a hive it is easy to smoke the bees away from the are where you are working - if you have africanised bees this has advantages in sting control. Low cost. -ve In a bad year your honey production will be considerably down compared to a commercial hive - the reson - in bad years bees will struggle to draw combs all year, hence by harvesting after ones first flow they don't have anymore space to fill. With a comercial hive one is recylcing honey storage space - meaining that each time bees invest in wax they don't have to do so again and can instead concentrate on producing honey. It has been shown that large unfilled areas of comb act as a nectar gathering stimulus. Difficult to move the hive - it you load such a hive into your vehicle and drive along with it, a sharp bumb or breaking action causes the combs to swing and can cause them to snap/pressure bees. This is due to the un-strenghtened nature of the combs. Hope this helps Keep well Garth Garth Cambray Camdini Apiaries 15 Park Road Grahamstown Apis mellifera capensis 6139 South Africa Time = Honey If you are not living on the edge you are taking up too much space!! ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 09:55:19 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Sr. Monica Ryan" Subject: Thanks for responses re Bad temper colony.. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am most grateful to the many people who responded to my question/problem re the 'Bad temper colony and its requeening with a queen of a gentler nature'. It was at the Beekeepers' Summer School in Gormanstown College near Drogheda in County Louth, Ireland, that we learned about the discussion Group on the Internet. My knowledge of the Internet is nil, but Sr. Monica (who is also into beekeeping) helps out here! She supplies me with the printouts. We enjoy all the queries and responses - all very useful and at times light-hearted. If I'm not a 'proper' Beekeeper by the end of the year I'll give up!! In response to the person who asked where Drogheda is situated in Eire - it is about 30 miles north of Dublin on the East coast. Incidentally, Gormanstown, which is the venue for the annual Summer School in July each year, in a Franciscan owned Boys Boarding School, is about 25 miles north of Dublin. Beekeepers from all over Eire, as well as many from England, Europe and on occasion from U.S.A., gather there for a week. It is a time not to be missed. Again, thanks to all who took the time to share their knowledge with us. Watch out for some more questions!! Maybe some time I will be able to resond to some of the topics raised. Sr. Catherine Duffy and Sr. Monica Ryan ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:10:11 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Hydrofluoric Acid as a sterilant (from J Bromenshenk) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT This message was originally submitted by jjbmail@SELWAY.UMT.EDU to the BEE-L list at CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU. It has been edited to remove excessive requoting of previously posted material. Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 13:27:38 -0600 To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Re: Hydrofluoric Acid as a sterilant >Does anybody have any comments on the effectiveness (of hydrofluoric >acid) or specific dangers and risks to humans or to bees or bee >products before I formulate a reply to this magazine? Yikes! Geologists use hydrofluoric acid to break down rocks. We once picked up elevated levels of fluoride in the bees themselves, when their hives were placed on a roof top of a laboratory building. The HF fumes coming up the fume hood vent got into the hives and was affecting the bees. This is a very caustic acid - potentially harmful to both humans and bees. Cheers Jerry J. Bromenshenk jjbmail@selway.umt.edu http://www.umt.edu/biology/bees ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 14:22:11 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: Re: Wax Worms are put to good use! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit These things bring $5 for 150 at the bait shop ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 22:48:27 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "John M. Thorp" Subject: Re: Top Bar Hive Comments: cc: johnwilk@WICI.COM Hi John, In reading the portion of your letter that's below did you ever try the metal frame spacers ? How many T.B.H.'s do you have now ? It seems that with proper top bar rotation mites should be kept down quite well. Do you do that and if so is this a sound observation ? Being the top bars rest side by side they can be difficult to align due to bees in crack and propolis build up. Special rack needed to hold frames after they are removed from hive. You can never set a frame down or lean it against the box. John in Homestead- -Jesus Christ is the only answer- -"Truth stands the test of time; lies are soon exposed." - Prov. 12:19 ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:18:14 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Wax Worms are put to good use! (from dubees@enter.net) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT This message was originally submitted by dubees@ENTER.NET to the BEE-L list at CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to remove excessive quoting of previously posted material. ------------------ Original message (ID=53285C) (44 lines) -------------------- From: "Andrew & Tiffany Dubas" To: "Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology" Subject: Re: Wax Worms are put to good use! Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 21:44:24 -0700 Ricky Holden wrote: >... Guess (Wax Worms are) good for something.... Tree frogs love them too, and Geckos lizards..... :) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:35:27 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Top Bar Hive (from johnwilk@wici.com) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT This message was originally submitted by johnwilk@WICI.COM to the BEE-L list at CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to improve formatting. ------------------ Original message (ID=111936) (44 lines) -------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 08:21:59 -0400 From: John Wilkerson To: "BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU" Subject: hallelujah.honey.co@juno.com wrote: > Hi > John, In > reading the portion of your letter that's below did you ever try the > metal frame spacers ? My hives have no recessed lip for the top bars to rest in. They simply rest on the top edge of the box and are in turn covered by a piece of edged plywood to keep the elements out. The Top bars are 1 3/8 inch exact in width and I place them side by side the length of the hive box. If I were to use the steel alignment racks, I would have to make a recessed channel in the hive or shorten the top bars. I have thought about doing this but decided against it because when the cover is removed I would then have 15 to 30 open frams of bees looking up at me. Granted reassembly of the hive would probably be easier, but I just keep a few hives and find the extra time to not be a problem. I do this just as a hobby and to help my fruit trees and garden. > How many T.B.H.'s do you have now ? This is my first year and am keeping two hives and have an extra that I will use to raise queens in next year. I might increase the number on up around 5 but I live in town and don't want problems with the neighbors. So far they seem to appreciate the bees, but with the rash of hornet and yellow jacket stings this year I am hesitant to be overly visable. > It seems that with proper top bar rotation mites should be kept down > quite well. Do you do that and if so is this a sound observation? I do not understand the connection between rotating the combs and mite control? John ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:17:13 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Hydrofluoric Acid as a sterilant (from J Bromenshenk) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Varroa won't make me quit beekeeping Foulbrood won't make me quit beekeeping Formic acid won't make me quit beekeeping Hydroflouric acid if it becomes necessasary to the keeping of bees will make me quit beekeeping. The stuff is beyond dangerous it eats your bones causes heart failure by screwing up you internal chemistry and so on. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 09:58:26 -0400 Reply-To: vreeland@chesco.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Russell Vreeland Subject: Re: Hornfaced bees and mites MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm new to this discussion group and would appreciate any response to two questions. My husband and I have been keeping hornfaced bees for pollination for 3 years now. We live in Coatesville, Pennsylvania and the bees seem to be doing well. Does anyone know if they are susceptible to the varroa and tracheal mites of honey bees? Also, we would like to switch from cardboard tubes to wooden bee houses -- does the type of wood used make a difference with the bees? Thanks, Susan Vreeland vreeland@chesco.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 09:36:15 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Frank Fox Subject: name that feeder! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable giving a short report at our monthly meeting. topic is feeding. have = examples of various & sundry feeders, along w/name for each with one = exception...can someone please tell me the name of the large volume = dry/wet feeder that resembles a shallow super & holds 1+ gal. of sugar = water? thanks, ffox nashville, tn ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 10:47:35 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: Hornfaced bees and mites Comments: To: vreeland@chesco.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/5/98 10:30:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, vreeland@chesco.com writes: > I'm new to this discussion group and would appreciate any response to two > questions. My husband and I have been keeping hornfaced bees for > pollination for 3 years now. We live in Coatesville, Pennsylvania and the > bees seem to be doing well. Does anyone know if they are susceptible to the > varroa and tracheal mites of honey bees? They have their own parasites, which tend to build up when you concentrate the population. For more info, see an article by Dr. Van Alebeek on the pollination page under Alternative Pollinators. Also, we would like to switch from > cardboard tubes to wooden bee houses -- does the type of wood used make a > difference with the bees? My understanding is that any wood will do. Personally I'd avoid cedar, walnut or other such strong smelling wood. The problem is getting a drill bit long enough. If the holes are not deep enough, the male/female ratio becomes way too high. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 10:17:17 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Mares Subject: books on beekeeping Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain I'm looking for books on beekeeping which would rouse the interest of my 13-year-old nephew. The Magic School Bus volume is too juvenile for him. Any suggestions? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:14:46 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Feeder can someone please tell me the name of the large volume = dry/wet feeder that resembles a shallow super & holds 1+ gal. of sugar = water? thanks, ffox nashville, tn I think you might be referring to a Miller-type feeder. I make them to hold just under 5 gallons. Lloyd LloydSpear@email.msn.com Owner, Ross Rounds the finest in comb honey production. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:16:10 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: name that feeder! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT This message was originally submitted by pondsite@BARNWELLSC.COM to the BEE-L list at CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to remove excessive quotes of previously posted material. ------------------ Original message (ID=2AD5F2) (40 lines) -------------------- From: pondsite@barnwellsc.com (Barricklow, Walt) Subject: Re: name that feeder! Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 10:39:27 -0400 Frank Fox asked: >... can someone please tell me the name of the large volume dry/wet > feeder that resembles a shallow super & holds 1+ gal. of sugar > water? .... there are lots of names for the feeders that you describe, but if it is sectioned and has a slot in the center for the bees to climb up, and you pour the syrup directly into the sections on each side of the slot is called a hive top feeder, if the shallow super has baggies to hold the syrup, it is called a baggie feeder. Lots of luck with your class Walt in Barnwell in SC ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:19:58 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Hydrofluoric Acid as a sterilant MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT This message was originally submitted by hartman.canon@LMCO.COM to the BEE-L list at CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to remove excessive quotes of previously posted material. ------------------ Original message (ID=180E4A) (38 lines) -------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 11:00:03 -0400 From: "Canon, Hartman" Subject: RE: Hydrofluoric Acid as a sterilant To: "'Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology'" HYDROFLUORIC acid is one of the most dangerous inorganic chemicals known. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 16:44:19 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Paul Walton Subject: Re: name that feeder! In-Reply-To: <907598565.217335.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In article <907598565.217335.0@uacsc2.albany.edu>, Frank Fox writes >giving a short report at our monthly meeting. topic is feeding. have = >examples of various & sundry feeders, along w/name for each with one = >exception...can someone please tell me the name of the large volume = >dry/wet feeder that resembles a shallow super & holds 1+ gal. of sugar = >water? thanks, ffox nashville, tn There are two types that I can think of the "Asforth" and the "miller". The only difference being that one has the entrance in the centre and the bees have access to two compartments and the other has the entrance at the front/along one of the sides. -- Paul Walton Bedfordshire, England Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 09:10:22 -0700 Reply-To: gstyer@worldnet.att.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "George Styer, Jr" Subject: Re: books on beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For a 13 year old, I would recommend "A Book of Bees" by Sue Hubbell, ISBN 0-394-55894-4. It is a quick read that takes the beekeeper through a year. I recommend it because it does not read like a text book or reference. I think all the references to studies ad nauseum in say "The Hive and the Honey Bee" (which is a good reference once one decides to start) will bore the lad. ---------- > From: Bill Mares > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: books on beekeeping > Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 8:17 AM > > I'm looking for books on beekeeping which would rouse the interest of > my 13-year-old nephew. The Magic School Bus volume is too juvenile > for him. > Any suggestions? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:24:02 -0500 Reply-To: lithar@midwest.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: AL Subject: Re: books on beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill Mares wrote: > > I'm looking for books on beekeeping which would rouse the interest of > my 13-year-old nephew. The Magic School Bus volume is too juvenile > for him. > Any suggestions? Check out this site. Don't let the African Bee title fool you, there's lots of great info about honeybees. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/ AL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 10:39:27 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Barricklow, Walt" Subject: Re: name that feeder! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit there are lots of names for the feeders that you describe, but if it is sectioned and has a slot in the center for the bees to climb up, and you pour the syrup directly into the sections on each side of the slot is called a hive top feeder, if the shallow super has baggies to hold the syrup, it is called a baggie feeder. Lots of luck with your class Walt in Barnwell in SC ---------- > From: Frank Fox > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: name that feeder! > Date: Monday, October 05, 1998 10:36 AM > > giving a short report at our monthly meeting. topic is feeding. have = > examples of various & sundry feeders, along w/name for each with one = > exception...can someone please tell me the name of the large volume = > dry/wet feeder that resembles a shallow super & holds 1+ gal. of sugar = > water? thanks, ffox nashville, tn ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 08:21:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Wilkerson Subject: Re: Top Bar Hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit hallelujah.honey.co@juno.com wrote: > Hi > John, In > reading the portion of your letter that's below did you ever try the > metal frame spacers ? My hives have no recessed lip for the top bars to rest in. They simply rest on the top edge of the box and are in turn covered by a piece of edged plywood to keep the elements out. The Top bars are 1 3/8 inch exact in width and I place them side by side the length of the hive box. If I were to use the steel alignment racks, I would have to make a recessed channel in the hive or shorten the top bars. I have thought about doing this but decided against it because when the cover is removed I would then have 15 to 30 open frams of bees looking up at me. Granted reassembly of the hive would probably be easier, but I just keep a few hives and find the extra time to not be a problem. I do this just as a hobby and to help my fruit trees and garden. > How many T.B.H.'s do you have now ? This is my first year and am keeping two hives and have an extra that I will use to raise queens in next year. I might increase the number on up around 5 but I live in town and don't want problems with the neighbors. So far they seem to appreciate the bees, but with the rash of hornet and yellow jacket stings this year I am hesitant to be overly visable. > It seems that with proper top bar rotation mites should be kept down quite well. Do you do that and if so is this a sound observation? I do not understand the connection between rotating the combs and mite control? John ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 14:51:45 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Pinder Subject: Re: books on beekeeping MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello List, Hi Bill, your nephew might like the following book. It may be a little advanced, but probably not - it has some pretty good pictures of hives and equipment, touches on parasites and diseases, how to get started, extraction, etc.. It isn't heavy reading (like The Hive and the Honeybee from Dadant). The New Complete Guide to Beekeeping by Roger A. Morse, ISBN 0-88150-315-0 Published in 1994 by The Countryman Press Inc., PO Box 175, Woodstock, Vermont 05091, U.S. About US$15.00 retail - there may be a more recent version, but I'm not sure. John Pinder ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 15:38:52 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adrian Wenner Subject: Books on beekeeping, etc. Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" George Styer, Jr wrote: >For a 13 year old, I would recommend "A Book of Bees" by Sue Hubbell, ISBN >0-394-55894-4. It is a quick read that takes the beekeeper through a year. >I recommend it because it does not read like a text book or reference. I >think all the references to studies ad nauseum in say "The Hive and the >Honey Bee" (which is a good reference once one decides to start) will bore >the lad. I second that recommendation. In addition, he might read Sue Hubbell's book, A COUNTRY YEAR (ISBN 0-06-097086-3). It has a little about beekeeping, as well. In case the young person is well enough along, richard Bonney's book, BEEKEEPING: A PRACTICAL GUIDE (ISBN 0-88266-861-7), might prove helpful (though out-of-date on the "dance language" notion). Adrian Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home phone) 967 Garcia Road (805) 893-8062 (UCSB FAX) Santa Barbara, CA 93106 ************************************************************************ * "...in the drift of the years I by and by found out that a Consensus * * examines a new [idea] with its feelings rather oftener than with its * * mind. You know, yourself, that is so. Do those people examine with * * feelings that are friendly to evidence? You know they don't." * * * * Mark Twain * ************************************************************************ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 09:11:19 GMT+0100 Reply-To: Anthony.Morgan@iet.hist.no Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Anthony Morgan Organization: HiST/AIN/IET Subject: Re: Hydrofluoric Acid as a sterilant (from J Bromenshenk) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Thomas Cornick wrote: > Varroa won't make me quit beekeeping > Foulbrood won't make me quit beekeeping > Formic acid won't make me quit beekeeping > > Hydroflouric acid if it becomes necessasary to the keeping of bees will make > me quit beekeeping. > The stuff is beyond dangerous it eats your bones causes heart failure by > screwing up you internal chemistry and so on. > Having used HF in the semiconductor industry earlier in my life , the idea of using it in connection with beekeeping is horrific!! Culled from the web:---- Anhydrous hydrogen fluoride and hydrofluoric acid are extremely corrosive to all tissues of the body. Skin contact results in painful deep-seated burns that are slow to heal. Burns from dilute (<50%) HF solutions do not usually become apparent until several hours after exposure; more concentrated solutions and anhydrous HF cause immediate painful burns and tissue destruction. HF burns pose unique dangers distinct from other acids such as HCL and H2SO4: undissociated HF readily penetrates the skin, damaging underlying tissue; fluoride ion can then cause destruction of soft tissues and decalcification of the bones. Hydrofluoric acid and HF vapor can cause severe burns to the eyes, which may lead to permanent damage and blindness. At 10 to 15 ppm, HF vapor is irritating to the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract. Exposure to higher concentrations can result in serious damage to the lungs, and fatal pulmonary edema may develop after a delay of several hours. Brief exposure (5 min) to 50 to 250 ppm may be fatal to humans. Ingestion of HF can produce severe injury to the mouth, throat, and gastrointestinal tract and may be fatal. Hydrofluoric acid attacks glass, concrete, and many metals. It also attacks carbonaceous natural material such as woody materials, leather, and rubber. Some materials resist the corrosive action of the acid, such as platinum, wax, polypropylene, polyethylene, and Teflon. In contact with metals with which it will react, hydrogen gas is liberated and the danger exists of a spark or flame resulting in an explosion. HF should always be stored in plastic bottles. Containers of HF should be stored in secondary containers made of polyethylene in areas separate from incompatible materials. All work with HF should be conducted in a fume hood to prevent exposure by inhalation. Splash goggles and Neoprene gloves as well as laboratory coats should be worn at all times to prevent eye and skin contact. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER USING HF!!!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Anthony N Morgan, Forsteammanuensis Institutt for Elektroteknikk Hogskolen i Sor-Trondelag N-7005 Trondheim, Norway anthony@iet.hist.no Tlf. 73 55 96 04 Fax. 73 55 95 81 ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 03:33:48 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Sid Pullinger Subject: Name that Feeder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Most hive top feeders are adaptations of the original Miller feeder, dati= ng back to the last century. Doctor C C Miller, born 1831 at Ligonier, Pa..= = Obviously a very versatile man. Started life as a doctor, switched to music, composing, song writing and finally to beekeeping, becoming a full-time beekeeper in 1878. Well known at the time for his writings and= his book "Year anong the Bees. S= id P. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 19:14:09 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jeff Holbrook Subject: Hydrofluoric Acid MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please re-post this message!! -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Holbrook To: Bee ListServe Date: Friday, August 21, 1998 12:15 AM Subject: RE: White Wax: Acids!! >Howdy! > > Just a note on the acid types mentioned here. James Max Peterson >was correct when he wrote "Phosphoric Acid is used in soft drinks to give >them a tart taste. It will burn the skin if left on in concentrated form. >Hydrofluoric Acid will dissolve bone if left on the skin." > > I just wanted to point out that Hydrofluoric Acid, commonly referred >to as HF by those who use it, is extremely dangerous. It is highly unlikely >that most folks will ever see it. It is commonly used by the glass industry >to etch glass to reduce surface flaws that may induce stress points and to >frost glass, as it dissolves glass rather easily. The reason that it is so >dangerous is that it can be quite deceptive. It may not cause your skin to >have a burning sensation until well after you have been exposed to it. You >may think that you got some water on you, at least for a while. This >gives it time to start to go to work on your bone before you even realize >what has happened. Once it gets into your system it reacts with calcium, >stealing it from every available source, specifically bone, muscle and even >neurons. It is so powerful that a five square inch skin exposure is very >likely to be fatal. Death is usually caused by heart failure as the calcium >required for muscle contraction (heart beat) is consumed by the HF. Even if >death is not the end result, any exposure is likely to be a painful event. >After a time, depending on concentration (molarity) the burning will begin. >When it gets to the bone it will make you think that your bones are being >cracked open by a nutcracker. That description was provided by a survivor >of an HF exposure! You will get many injections of sodium gluconate around >the effected bone. Morphine is usually required to control pain. Seizures >will occur. Muscle control and nerves in the exposure area are likely to be >irreparably damaged. > > Sorry to be so wordy but I want all to know the dangers of HF. Don't >use it!! In the rare instance that someone does get a hold of a quantity of >HF, I want them to know enough so that they just don't use it. We use it >where I work every day. It is treated as the most dangerous stuff in the >plant. It is! A single pinhole in a rubber glove will ruin your life. >Please do not use Hydrofluoric Acid for anything. > >Thanks for listening! > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 21:23:42 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Harry Goudie Subject: Re: Effects of Bayvarol and Apistan on Acarine (Dr Max Wa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Harry Goudie, Lochluichart, Scotland. Knitwear Page: http://freespace.virgin.net/luichart.woollens/ -----Original Message----- From: Aaron Morris To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Date: 02 October 1998 14:05 Subject: Re: Effects of Bayvarol and Apistan on Acarine (Dr Max Wa >>He is also putting methylsalicylate into his hives ... >> >No comment, except it's dangerous and illegal. Hi All, This business of ILLEGAL chemicals in the beehive has set me thinking. I would think that it would depend on whether the produce of the hive was offered for sale to the general public and even what products were being offered. There is an apiary near here, for example, which produces wax rather than honey. In the Scottish Beekeeper (August) there was a translation of the German instructions for the use of bayvalol in which it states: Only honey which has been very finely filtered and with all traces of foaming removed should be offered for sale Comb honey and chunk honey may NOT be offered for sale as food! It would seem to me that that is a strong case for making BAYVAROL an illegal substance!!! ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 17:44:48 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: Hydrofluoric Acid as a sterilant MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I agree with the several astonished replies carried so far - this suggestion is sheer lunacy, and obviously was proposed by someone with very little knowledge of chemical safety. I would hope that hydrofluoric acid is a controlled substance wherever the original writer lives. -(With foodstuffs, ALWAYS err on the side of extreme caution with regard to new additives - don't we have enough problems ?? - Do you really want to attract the attention of the "food police" to YOUR operation ????) - John Edwards, former chem major, Safety Chairman for 6 years during the 1980s at the Tucson USDA Bee Lab complex . Peter Dalby wrote: > One of the British Beekeepers magazines "Beecraft" has published a letter > from a reader suggesting the use of hydrofluoric acid for fumigation of > beehives to kill wax moth. > > I know it is a very dangerous compound to use and safety data sheets on the > product bear this out. > > Does anybody have any comments on its effectiveness or specific dangers and > risks to humans or to bees or bee products before I formulate a reply to > this magazine? > > Thanks for any help. > > Peter Dalby, Chairman BBKA Technical Committee. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:48:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Swintosky, Michael D." Subject: Hive-Top / Miller Feeder Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've seen references to volumes of anywhere from 2 to 5 gallons for these feeders. Is there a problem with mold or yeast activity if the syrup remains in the feeder too long? And how long is too long? I expect that might be temperature dependent. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 11:07:29 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Mold in feeder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ">Is there a problem with mold or yeast activity if the syrup remains in the feeder too long?"< Yes, there is certainly a problem with mold...I do not know about yeast. I suspect it is highly temperature dependent. For this reason, if I am feeding a weak hive or nuc, I start out with only 1-2 gallons in the feeder as want to see it entirely consumed within 2 weeks. I have been told that 1 teaspoon of Clorox or 1 tablespoon of vinegar to 5 gallons of syrup will not hurt bees and will prevent mold. This is interesting as the Clorox would make the syrup more alkaline and the vinegar would make it more acid. Yet both are claimed to work. Because of the seeming contradiction between alkaline and acid (in general, mold would rather grow in alkaline solution than in acid) I have always been afraid to try either. Lloyd LloydSpear@email.msn.com Owner, Ross Rounds(tm) the finest in comb honey production. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 11:26:14 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Canon, Hartman" Subject: Top Feeders MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain I have had no trouble with mold using these approx. 4.0-4.5 gal feeders since I started adding 1/4 tsp cream of tartar/gal of syrup as suggested by someone on this list. I refill about every 2 weeks when feeding. I should attend to it about every 10 days less, as they are always bone dry when I open up. HBCanon Geneva, FL ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 08:32:04 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adrian Wenner Subject: Nosema treatment ? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" To those on BEE-L With all the exchanges about treatment for diseases going about, you might be interested in an early folk remedy for nosema, one that rings a bell today. My wife gave me a book (novel) last Christmas, one which I just managed to finish. Leo Perutz first published it in 1936 (DER SCHWEDISCHE REITER). John Brownjohn translated it, and it came out in English in 1992 (Harper Collins Pub.) as THE SWEDISH CAVALIER. In the middle of the book, one finds a short section on troubles with beekeeping experienced by a priest-beekeeper. I quote here some of the relevant material dealing with the yield from three bee hives: "I keep [the hives] in the meadow behind my house.' Three, eh? 'They must yield eighteen or more measures of spring-gathered honey.' The priest sighed. 'This year, ten-and-a-half measures only.' 'That's very little for three hives,' the captain said. 'Yet it was just the kind of year the beekeeper craves: a summer with cool winds and heavy dews, a long, dry autumn, and a snowy winter. What was amiss?' 'Alas,' the priest lamented, his thoughts flitting back and forth between hives and the theft of his church's treasures, 'my bees were afflicted with nosema.' 'And you did nothing to cure it? You had no remedy [at] hand?' 'No,' the priest said sadly, 'there is none. One must simply let the disease take its course.' 'Mark this, sir', the robber captain told him. 'Wild thyme pounded up with a little oil of lavender and addeded to the bees' sugar-water --- that's a proven remedy for nosema.' ******* Adrian Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home phone) 967 Garcia Road (805) 893-8062 (UCSB FAX) Santa Barbara, CA 93106 ************************************************************************ * "...in the drift of the years I by and by found out that a Consensus * * examines a new [idea] with its feelings rather oftener than with its * * mind. You know, yourself, that is so. Do those people examine with * * feelings that are friendly to evidence? You know they don't." * * * * Mark Twain * ************************************************************************ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 11:40:50 -0400 Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Palmer Organization: French Hill Apiaries Subject: mold in feeder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I use gallon paint I buy new at an auto parts store. I place them directly on the combs(actually resting on sticks to preserve the bee space). I've seen colonies take down 5 gallons in less than 3 days. The syrup(HFCS) isn't in the cans long enough to crystalize, I guess molds and yeasts wouldn't be a problem. Wash and dry the cans when you're done. The bees cluster around the cans, and keep the syrup warm. Important here in the north when October turns cold, and you have barrels of syrup to feed. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 09:15:44 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Honey Price Support News Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 10.6.98 Citizens Against Government Waste. In an attempt to ``pull the wool'' over taxpayers' eyes, legislators inserted the language to revive the federal mohair program -- as well as the honey and wool subsidy programs -- in the $56 billion agriculture appropriations bill, which is laden with other pork-barrel goodies disguised as ``emergency'' farm relief. 10.6.98 (Breaking News) WASHINGTON (Reuters) - The Senate passed a $4.2 billion election-year bailout for farmers Tuesday that prompted a veto threat by President Clinton, who wants a record $7.7 billion to help growers through an economic downturn. It is not clear if the new "honey loan program" is included in this or the Presidents version of the Farm Bill but I have been told honey will be supported at about $.56 in some form of a farm loan program. Details are unknown at this time but you can be sure as they are found they will be posted. Follow this and other beekeeping news at: http://beenet.com Its free, its active, its fun, and a lot of work but a real learning experence. ttul, the OLd Drone Los Banos, California (c)Permission is given to copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE AT OWN RISK! ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 21:31:29 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Sr. Monica Ryan" Subject: Ivy honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In Autumn and early Winter of 1997 the IVY yielded profusely around here -(East & Northeast of Ireland). I think the same thing is happening this year. I am interested to know how one can best handle such a crop. It granulates almost rock hard, and I'm told it is not the type of honey one would relish at breakfast. Questions: (1) How can it be got out of the combs? (2) What use can be made of it? Many thanks for any tips. Sr. Catherine Duffy. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 12:00:56 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Buck Rut Subject: Swarming Urge MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Greetings Fellow Beekeepers, This is my first year of beekeeping, and I must say it has been a wonderful experience. I currently have 4 hives in the St. Louis area. I have run into a problem in the past 2 months, that none of my fellow beekeepers around here can explain. In Early June, I split a hive and place a Starline queen in the new hive. All went very well until late August. The bees then began to construct both superceedure and swarm cells. Being so late in the season, I figured the if I kept them cut out, they would lose the urge. Within three weeks, they quit producing superceedure cells, but they are still continuing to produce 2-3 swarm cells a week along the bottom of the frames. Even being new, I am sure that the cells are swarm cells due to their location on the lower edges of the frames. Any suggestions about what is going on, how much longer it will continue, etc would be greatly appreciated. Also, should I plan or requeening this colony in the spring? Seems they dont like this queen, yet she lays a wonderful brood pattern. Thanks for any help with this problem! Scott Moser _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 19:41:02 +0300 Reply-To: Rimantas Zujus Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rimantas Zujus Subject: Re: Mold in feeder Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lloyd Spear writes:>For this reason, if I am feeding a weak hive or nuc,... I don't know what do you mean with "week hive". If your colony is really week you should not give them sugar syrup. This is a very exhaustible job for bees. Their wintering becomes worse. We are advised to give sugar syrup to strong hives and later to steal some combs with sugar honey for the sake of the week ladies. Best regards Remnants Zujus Kaunas LITHUANIA e-mail : zujus@isag.lei.lt http://www.online.lt/indexs.htm 55 North, 24 East ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 21:27:53 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ken Hoare Subject: Re Mold in feeder MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Manley in his book 'Honey Farming' states that a solution of Thymol added to the syrup prevents fermentation of any unsealed stores. Having personally used a thymol solution for a few years now (except 1998 - very little feeding necessary, but then very little harvested in my part of the UK) it definitely prevents mould (my spelling this time) forming on the inside of any syrup containers or feeders. I have made up syrup in the early spring to feed a hungry colony and any remaining has been left in the container, intending to use it for feeding a swarm. Maybe three months later the syrup is as clear and the container as clean as the day it was first used, and "No", it appears to have no ill-effects on the bees. Thymol crystals, HAZARDOUS just like the majority of chemicals, will not dissolve in water, a solution must be made up as follows: dissolve one ounce of thymol crystals in five fluid ounces of surgical spirit. Shake the bottle vigorously. Use a half fluid ounce of this solution to 112lbs sugar in seven gallons of water. Ken - A New Boy to BEE-L, rapidly learning how it is done the other side of the Atlantic, thank you. bees@kenlia.enta.net ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 18:29:24 PDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ernest Gregoire Subject: Re: Nosema treatment ? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII This message on Nosema is timely indeed. Hello Gang, I was reading the brochure that came with some Fumidil-B. It reads,"Dosage and preparation of Medicated Syrup" "Fumidil-B is best prepared at a concentration in the range of 75 to 100 mg.fumigillin activity per gallon of 2:1 sugar syrup." So far so good! The instructions now leave the confines of reality as they further recommend," When only (1) or (2) colonies are to be treated, the syrup may be made by dissolving a rounded teaspoonful (3.75 to 5 grams ) FUMIDIL-B per galon of syrup." Let's run the numbers folks! There are 1000 milligrams in 1 gram. There are 5000 milligrams in 5 grams. The bottle of Fumidil-B holds 500 mg. or half a gram. and is clearly labled that way. At the 100 mg./gal. rate ,500 mg. will make 5 gallons of treated syrup. At the 100 mg./gal. rate, 5000 mg. will make 50 gallons of treated syrup. At the 5 gram/gal. rate, you are overdosing your bees by a factor of 10 to 1. My point is this; if an unsuspecting new beekeeper takes the later intructions for 1 or 2 colonies and does not do the math, then he will be overdosing his bee. Obviously, the writer did not do the math when he wrote this. I will call the manufacturer tomorrow and inform them of this error. Meanwhile,read the labels carefully folks. Which brings up the Terramycin dosage,but that is a subject for another letter. de AA1IK, Time the accursed enemy of man, cursed by youth for going to slow Ernie Gregoire and by the old for going to fast. R.R. 1, Box 221, South Rd. Beekeeper Canaan, NH. 03741 Fly fisher & tier, Promise Keeper. E-mail address: gregoire@endor.com packet address: AA1IK@WA1WOK.FN43FE.NH.USA.NA ------------------------------------- 10/07/98 18:29:24