========================================================================= Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 20:45:19 -0500 Reply-To: vcoppola@froggernet.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vince Coppola Subject: Re: Queens preferred laying area? RE: Carniolan bees in TBH - MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Matthew wrote: > > > > Has anyone tried joining two Langstroth hives by removing one side > (i.e., one really long Langstroth hive)? > > I'm wondering if the queens prefer climbing comb-to-comb rather than up > to the next hive body & back down. Hi matthew, I f you look through the old beekeeping books, an old abc-xyz for example, you will see articles about the "Long Idea Hive". The idea was to construct a hive as you describe with 20 or more frames per hive body. Some years ago I tryed to help someone who was confined to a wheel chair to keep bees. Using the long hive idea we made a base hivebody that held 33 9 1/8" frames. This was to allow us to super the hive with three standard 6 5/8' supers side by side. The whole hive would stay low to the base and there would be a minimum of lifting. The problem we had was getting the bees to work that wide a hivebody. As I remember they went out to about 20 frames fairly readily but the end frames never got filled. As soon as supers were put on they went up. We may have been able to force them up with excluders or by confining them to the brood chamber longer but at the time it seemed that we were working against there wishes. We tried this for 2 1/2 seasons and gave up. Wintering was not as good either. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 09:12:29 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Russian Bees and varroa Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All I read recently in one of the Irish Beekeeping magazines as follows: >Outdoor testing has begun at the USDA-ARS Honeybee Breeding Genetics and Physiology Laboratory at Baton Rouge, Louisiana USA, to establish if Russian honeybees can resist Varroa and other tracheal mites. > >These Russian bees, imported into the USA last July evolved in a mite-infested region in far eastern Russia. If they do prove resistant, scientists could arrange to distribute hybrids - offspring of Russian Queens and American drones (my question - why not American Queens and Russian drones?) - to beekeepers. > >The scientists' outdoor tests will also measure the Russian bees' honey production and other valuable traits.' > I was wondering if any list members can say if the above is correct, and if there is any further information available on it. Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland e mail cssl@iol.ie Tel + 353 1 289 5269 Fax + 353 1 289 9940 Latitude 53 Degrees 16' North Longitude 6 Degrees 9' West of Greenwich ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 17:34:07 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Let's Get Together MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT A coupla years ago, I broke open my piggybank and went to Virginia, USA. To the ABF meeting there. It was a really good time, and I met many old friends. Plus many new ones from BEE-L. I'm sitting here thinking I'd like to do it again and wonder how many are up for it. Last time, there were about 10 or so of us from the list, and we did quite a few things together, from sitting in on Dr. Rodriguez's lecture to having dinner as a group (several times) in a local restaurant. After it was over, I drove down to visit a couple who are well known on this list and had a memorable time. I think of it often. They say that involvement in internet discussions tend to increase the isolation that people experience in their 'real' lives. No so for me. Mark your calendar and let's do it agin. Allen ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 09:50:00 -0600 Reply-To: Charles Harper Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Harper Subject: Re: Russian Bees and varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Sun, 15 Nov 1998 09:12:29 GMT, Computer Software Solutions Ltd wrote: >I was wondering if any list members can say if the above is correct, and if >there is any further information available on it. > >Tom Barrett >49 South Park >Foxrock >Dublin 18 >Ireland > >e mail cssl@iol.ie >Tel + 353 1 289 5269 >Fax + 353 1 289 9940 Yes the above information is correct, the bee lab is able to substain the Rusian bees without chemicals, the control bees next to the Rusian bees require chemicals to serive. The test for production will be performed next seasion. Charles Harper Harper's Honey farm Carencro LA. 900+ Hives ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 09:50:26 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Paul Walton Subject: Re: (no subject) In-Reply-To: <910915501.2127838.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In article <910915501.2127838.0@uacsc2.albany.edu>, Dar Heinze writes >Hello! > >I have a question about feeding. I read that the proper fall feed was 2 parts >sugar, and 1 part water. That is correct. The objective is to feed the bees with as high a concentration of sugar as possible so that they can convert it into stores with the minimum amount of effort. > Well, almost everytime I have made syrup 2:1, it has >crystalized before the bees could drink it all. If you try using warm water you will find that it goes into solution much easier. Of course, you must allow it to cool before feeding it to the bees. If they do not have sufficient free space (i.e. empty cells), they may well not need the extra stores so they will be slow to take it. > So, I decreased the sugar to >1 3/4:1, which seems to fix the problem. But - will this lessened sugar >content have any ill effects? Yes. As it gets cooler, they may not be able to reduce the water content low enough to be used as stores and it will probably ferment in the cells. This will cause the bees problems when they come to eat it. > I have a entrance feeder, so when the sugar >crystalizes, it plugs the holes and does not allow any more liquid to pass >through. The idea is that you can stimulate the bees into early brood rearing in the spring with slow feeders such as this (they also need a pollen supplement to get the hypopharyngeal gland producing brood food). In the autumn, you need to replace the honey that you have removed by bulk feeding them syrup. To do this, you would be better off with a hive top feeder such as the asforth or miller style which hold a gallon or more at a time - or even a frame feeder (frame feeders do not hold as much as the others so you have to disturb the bees more with this type as you re-fill them). > >Thanks! >Dar -- Paul Walton Bedfordshire, England Paul@adrem.demon.co.uk ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 23:49:36 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Banks Organization: http://www3.sympatico.ca/honey.road Subject: Insulating hives with TYPAR house wrap MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Has anyone every considered wraping there hivws with TYPAR, I was taking construction wit a friend, when we got on the topic of House wrap, and then it dawned on me. a: Typar has no insulating value, but is wind proof, thereby cutting down on draft in hive b: Typar radiates moisture only one way, out. When wraped properly, it wound draw moisture out, and not let any in. Has anyone tried it, and if so, how are your winters in you region.(mild, long, snowy, etc..) ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 11:55:57 -0800 Reply-To: ryarnell@orednet.org Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Yarnell Subject: Re: Let's Get Together That meeting is too far away for us. However, our experience with "non-virtual get-togethers" by virtual groups has been positive. We've met with "cyber friends" on three or four occasions and found the friendships we claimed to exist proved to be true in person. In fact, people who were new to the groups and who assumed we all "knew" each other in real life, were astonished to learn we'd never before met in person. Allen wrote: >They say that involvement in internet discussions tend to increase the >isolation that people experience in their 'real' lives. No so for me. >Mark your calendar and let's do it agin. -- ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 14:40:53 -0800 Reply-To: pyramid@epix.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Pyramid Subject: Frame feeders MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Frame feeders can be used for cold weather feeding with the least possible hive disturbance. Place the frame feeder at the end. Drill a 1/2" dia. (or so) hole in the inner cover directly over the feeder. Now to feed, slide the top cover over about 3" to uncover the hole, stick a small funnel in the hole, and pour in the syrup. The seal on the top cover is never broken. Check the syrup level by using a dipstick through the hole. I have found the manufactured, plastic feeders unsuitable. I make my own which are larger since the feeder goes all the way to the inner wall. For a shallow super, my feeders hold just under 2 qts. ea.; for a deep, one will hold about 3 1/2 qts. For my food supers, I leave a feeder permanently in place. While I would not consider this method suitable for a commercial operation, it works well for me. Burns NE PA 76W 41 1/2N ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 15:14:42 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Adams Subject: wax adherents Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Hi All I am looking for information on a wax adherent that is in use in Germany I'm told. I don't know the name of the product, it is not a bleach type chemical , it bonds with the gum resins and pollen particles when wax is filtered to make an almost white wax. Does anyone know what is called and a source for it? Thanks David ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 18:01:50 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Slade Subject: Re: "killer bees" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Old gentlemen in their eighties or nineties, mostly now gone on, have spoken to me of the fearsomely aggressive nature of the "black Italians" imported into the UK in the twenties to make up for losses put down to Isle of Wight disease. I don't believe these bees were aggressive when imported, but as often happens were quickly superseded and the daughter queens, mating with native stock, enjoyed hybrid vigour which manifested itself in bad temper as well as increased honey gathering. This may have created the myth that good honey gathering and bad temper necessarily go together. I have noticed that it is the fashion among our North American contributors to try queens of different races, eg Carniolan or Italian, often on the same shopping list and presumably in the same apiary. If one person isn't, maybe his neighbour is. I wonder how many of the reports of killer bees are really down to hybrids or first crosses between European races and nothing at all to do with Africa. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:56:50 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard E Leber Subject: ABF Convention It's still two months away but, there is no doubt Nancy & I will BEE there starting with the all day bus trip to Walter T. Kelley's. This is one week of vacation time that really combines 'business' with pleasure. Rick & Nancy Leber Beekeeping & Honey Production Since 1987 Mobile, 'Sweet Home Alabama' ricks.toy@juno.com ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:45:46 -0600 Reply-To: Barry@Birkey.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Barry Birkey Organization: BIRKEY.COM Subject: Re: Insulating hives with TYPAR house wrap MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Allen Banks wrote: > Has anyone every considered wraping there hivws with TYPAR, I was taking > Has anyone tried it, and if so, how are your winters in you > region.(mild, long, snowy, etc..) My experience with it consists of one winter. Being in the building trade, I have house wrap on hand and decided to try it one winter. My conclusion is that in the 5 winters since, where no wrap of any kind was used and 100 percent of my hives have wintered just fine, I can't justify the cost or time to wrap hives. Chicago area where winter temps can be as cold as -10 degrees with plenty of wind and snow mixed in. -Barry -- Barry Birkey Illinios, USA -------------------------------------------- 630.293.1181 ph > 630.293.3613 fx barry@birkey.com > http://www.birkey.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 15:31:48 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Andy Nachbaur Subject: Re: wax adherents In-Reply-To: <199811152030.MAA02651@mx1.thegrid.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 03:14 PM 11/15/98 -0500, you wrote: >I am looking for information on a wax adherent that is in use in Germany I'm >told. don't know the name of the product, it is not a bleach type chemical , it >bonds with the gum resins and pollen particles when wax is filtered to make an >almost white wax. >Does anyone know what is called and a source for it? I tested such a product years ago. It was a heavy black soap type of material and it worked well but it also changed the chemical makeup of the bees wax making it into a product with no more value then petroleum wax. I do not believe it was ever marketed to the beeswax industry or beekeeping industry here in the US. The product I tested had no name, (don't quote me) but I believe it was supplied by Shell. Most beeswax refiners have their own commercial and secret process for bleaching wax. The safest and the one that preserves the natural quality of the beeswax is sun bleaching. If done right you can get white wax by sun bleaching and is possible in all areas of the world at reasonable costs. The 2nd most used process at least in use at one time was bleaching using acid and filtering using carbon or DE. Have not bothered keeping up with all this because the price of farm beeswax does not provide for further processing and there is good reason for this as value of bees wax to the buyer depends on his own use and most will not buy wax that has been altered by chemical treatments. Clean dark beeswax has the same value as light wax but does not always bring the same price but mostly close to it depending on the needs of the end user and volume of the wax. Much of the color in farm beeswax if from processing without adequate water to wash the honey residue from the wax that burns and discolors the wax. Beeswax should be as free of honey as it can be before melting in clean soft water. Water should be changed if discolered by honey remaining in the wax. I know many a one time used Brand type melters that actually heat the honey to melt the wax but that does not make it the best beeswax melting process unless carefully operated so the honey does not burn and darken the wax which really slows that system down. ttul, the OLd Drone http://beenet.com (c)Permission is given to copy this document in any form, or to print for any use. (w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE AT OWN RISK! ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:19:51 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ines Kinchen Subject: any beekeepers in wisconsin Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I am just starting beekeeping together with a partner in the spring of 99. We were just wondering if there are any beekeepers in Wisconsin we could become friends with. We live in Green Bay. Hope someone will contact us. Ines Kinchen 1696 Forest Glen Green Bay, WI 54304 (920) 405-3157 runines@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 19:17:19 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert E Butcher Subject: Re: Mixing 2:1 syrup Hi all, When we feed, we use 3liter soda pop containers. Just mix sugar and water by shaking container. Also drill real small holes in the lid and just squeeze it. Squirt it right in the comb, very little mess. 39 colonies and growing God Bless You Robert&Teresa Butcher bobbees@juno.com ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 11:12:34 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rimantas Zujus Subject: Re: Queens preferred laying area? RE: Carniolan bees in TBH - Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-4" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Beefriends Matthew in Castle Rock, CO Writes: >queens would prefer to lay on the two lower full-depth supers first >before venturing up to the second level. Some of the feral hives I've >removed indicated the queen preferred a side-to-side area where she >could easily moniter brood activity. > >Since this is only my 'guess' does anyone have any professional insight >to preferred laying patterns? > We discussed this topic in our last meeting of our town's Society two weeks ago. Conclusion was: "The longer is a hive the grater optimal temperature volume for brood occurs" As you know the density of air depends on its temperature. Therefore heated air distributes upper and cool - lower. Optimal temperature for brood is somewhere between it. Thus horizontal area (volume) with optimal temperature depends on hives length. As confirmation to this ,maybe, our love to greater frames (Dadant 435x300 mm) and mostly wide hives with one or sometimes two supers (half Dadant height 145x300 mm) I want to pay your attention. We are almost north country :) Rimantas Zujus Kaunas LITHUANIA e-mail : zujus@isag.lei.lt http://www.online.lt/indexs.htm http://www.lei.lt 55 North, 24 East ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:05:59 -0500 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Scott question MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lloyd Spear wrote: > Scott, in East Tennessee, said "Just went back today to remove apistan and > have very few > bees in the hive,1000-2000 maybe, very slow moving,(other hives we were in > today had lots of activity) no brood, and a fair number of yellow jackets," > > > - Your hive was all ready severely weakened by Varroa when you put the > strips in and could not recover. The fact that there were many bees and > they were working well, does not mean the hive was not weakened by Varroa. > If both worker bees and larvae are heavily infested, the hive can collapse in > 2-3 weeks, even with strips present. > I agree that undetected high varroa levels was probably the basic problem. Yesterday I also went out to remove Apistan strips. Almost all the hives were in excellent shape, with heavy honey stores and strong populations (it being cold, I did not check the brood). However, one hive had died out and its combs were already destroyed by wax moths. Very few dead bees were on the bottom board, and no dead cluster was between the combs -- this is very typical of varroa. I am fortunate this year, because that was the only casualty out of 77 hives checked so far, but every one of them was strong in early September when they were given the strips. (Yes, I know it has been longer than 45 days, but at least I got them out.) Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 17:52:31 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Conrad Sigona Subject: Re: geografical position In-Reply-To: <199811110946.EAA13356@newport.ntcnet.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII > I'd like to ask you to add your geografical position as longitude and > latitude. Especially of the great states. I must confess I can't imagine > where is that "OR" in the USA as I'm sure most of you don't know where is > Lithuania: in Africa, Asia or Australia. One could better evaluate > differences of your climate and possibility to apply your experience. Please consider that latitude and longitude is useful to locate a spot on the map, but not very accurate as a direct relationship of climate. That is, 50 degrees N is not necessarily colder than 40 degrees N. Are we trying to establish location or climate? Conrad Sigona conrad@ntcnet.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 11:17:47 -0900 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tom Elliott Subject: Re: "killer" bees returns MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Andy Nachbaur wrote: > I am somewhat disappointed in the fact that no solution has been found for > this aggressive behavior as I know there is one and believe it will turn > out to be simple and have nothing to do with DNA or the WWII science of > morphometrics. I suspect to much effort is being made in identifying > problems and looking for new ones and I am sure more will be found. Andy, etal It has seemed to me since the "Killer Bee" scare began that lineage is not as important as behavior. We have all seen or heard of folks routinely working AHB without any protection. Now here in Alaska I do not ever anticipate having a problem with AHB. We have enough trouble keeping temperate climate bees alive through the winter. But, several things could be done to ameliorate the AHB probllem. One I have advocated on this list before is simply selecting AHB for gentleness. If your bees are gentle and productive, do you care if they are africanized. I am sure a little thought would produce many solutions, and I agree wholeheartedly that what you folks need are solutions not more problems. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Chugiak, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@gci.net ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 18:39:25 -0700 Reply-To: allend@internode.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Here is How to Search the Archives PAINLESSLY! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Wow! Sunsite -- where Adam maintains the BEE-L and sci.ag.bee archives has a search on the main page: http://sunsite.unc.edu/It turned up 375 references for 'Beekeepers' and 92 for 'Formic' Knock yourselves out! Allen ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:01:51 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Blane White Subject: Re: Drones and Varroa -Reply Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi all, It would seem likely that drone brood trapping of varroa would select for = mites with a preference for worker brood as Stan pointed out. However, = the reproductive rate of varroa is much lower in worker brood and that may = actually be enough to allow the colony to coexist with the mites. I seem = to recall an article to this effect from somewhere in Europe where the = mites prefered worker brood and as a result did not build up to damaging = levels in the colony. The difference in that case was shown to be the = mites not the bees. If this is true - a big if - the selection resulting = from drone brood trapping is also to the beekeepers avantage as it would = at least reduce the need for treatment due to the lower reproductive = potential of the mites in worker brood. =20 FWIW blane ************************************* Blane White MN Dept of Agriculture St Paul, MN ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:48:49 -0500 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Russian Bees and varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is there any information as to the race of these bees? Are they Caucasion or Carniolan bees, or some other race? Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 11:23:04 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: CSlade777@aol.com on beekeeping in Portugal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT This message was originally submitted by CSlade777@AOL.COM to the BEE-L list at CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to improve formatting. ------------------ Original message (ID=1BDB40) (102 lines) ------------------- From: CSlade777@aol.com Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 19:02:08 EST To: bee-l@cnsibm.albany.edu Many thanks to all those who responded to my query on beekeeping in Portugal, especially Madeleine Pym. We stayed in a resort called Quinto do Lago (Lake Farm) a few miles west of Faro in the Algarve. It is surrounded by golf courses. The resort has well maintained gardens with plenty of flowers although many of these were of the large flowered tropical types not much favoured by bees. The countryside is mainly dry heathland becoming extensive saltmarsh on the coastal lagoons. Clearly the main honey flow from the heathland plants was long since over. I did, however, see a single very black bee foraging on a Rosemary bush. A number of people were selling honey in Loule market including country folk who were also selling other produce of their ground such as herbs, fruit and vegetables. Some honey was produced to a high visual quality as seen on supermarket shelves anywhere. Other was clear but in recycled jars with home made labels and some was very murky and unlabelled. Where the jars were of the right size the honey was sold by the half kilo and throughout the market the price was 350 escudos per half kilo which works out at A3sterling 1.16 a pound weight. I bought one and found the honey to be viscous, fairly dark and strongly flavoured with probably a good proportion of ling (calluna vulgaris) Upon Madeleine's recommendation I persuaded my family that they would really love to visit Monchique in the mountains (big hills really). Isabel in the tourist information office was not able to tell me of a beekeeper's shop in town, but I noticed on her desk a frame of honey in a plastic bag. The shallow frame may have been home made but was well constructed. The drone size honey cappings were travel stained. The comb had been brought in by the office cleaning lady whose husband, Senhor Mariauo keeps bees. He works in a local timber yard and also makes hives etc but as Isabel thought he could not speak English I didn't follow this up. We made for the highest point, at Foia where there is a Nato radar station but as we left the tree line at about 900 metres we were driving through cloud so turned back. We went for a walk in the woods. I didn't spot any hives either cork or conventional but pocketed a handful of acorns from the cork oak so shall grow my own hive. In the little spa village near Monchique honey as I bought for 350 esc was on sale for 550 on one side of the square and 650 on the other. In a supermarket in the town of Almancil it was 450. I saw one other bee during my holiday, also black and working citrus blossom. On our way back to the airport on the road from Quartiera to Almancil I saw what looked like a line of hives about 50 yards from the road. We had a plane to catch so did not stop. Clearly Portugal is a country where a lot of honey is produced. There are some large producers (I saw the same name on labels in several outlets) and many small ones. The land seems very dry by British standards. There is a great deal of unkempt land where wild flowers should thrive in their season. There are also many small orange groves. I kept finding roadside advertising signs for a firm of pest controllers and my guess is that their job is to spray orange groves rather than to prevent tourists being bitten by bed bugs. I am still puzzled at the lack of visible bees around. The temperature was in the low seventies F. Butterflies and grasshoppers were abundant. I just hope they haven't been smitten with the big V. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 12:18:37 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Varroa and drone brood, selecting for worker preference? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Hi Stan and all, Sorry not to answer sooner. On purpose I do not have a computer at home. After doin' it all day I leave it at the office. Regarding varroa: their preferred host is drone brood. This is due to the drones' longer development time which favors more mites reaching maturity while the drone cells are capped. Early in the season when mite populations are low and drone populations are building, the mites will target the drone cells. My understanding is that mites don't target worker brood until the drone population is decreasing (late summer/fall) and the mite population has risen to the point that there aren't enough drone cells to go around - then they migrate to worker brood. If the varroa population reaches that point in their dynamics it's a pretty sure bet the hive will collapse soon afterwards, unless the beekeeper steps in, and even then it may be too late. When drone trapping, if you start early and keep trapping, you keep your drone population coming (the method calls for encouraging construction of drone cells) and you keep the mite population in check by removing them from the hive before they get the chance to emerge from the drone cells. By the time the queens stop producing drones, the few mites that are still present in spite of drone trapping will not be of numbers sufficient to crash your hive in the time remaining in the season. You can harvest your fall crop and the get in a fall treatment of Apistan to knock out the rest of the varroa population. Drone trapping is not touted as the final solution for varroa control, rather it's another tool in IPM (integrated pest management). Now for the record, I do not trap drones (although in retrospect I will certainly start next year!). In my parts we get two major flows, early June to mid-July and late Aug to mid-Oct. A mid season Apistan treatment means kissing off the fall flow. I have relied on Apistan twice yearly, which worked well in '96 and '97, but I expect that this year I should have forsaken the fall flow (which was very good) and treated in September. I am seeing ominous signs that I waited too long. What worked well in previous years may spell disaster in '98. Drone trapping seems the only alternative right now, until (if?) gel-formic is released. Apistan timing just doesn't coincide with the flows in these parts. Bob Horr's article claims that drone trapping will keep varroa populations in check throughout the season (provided you start early and keep it up all season) such that you can get by with a single post- fall-flow Apistan treatment in the northeast US. The bad news is it's labor intensive and the constant drone cell building cuts down on honey yield. Having said all this, I'll capitulate. I guess drone trapping could select for mites that prefer worker brood. I do not know for sure that ALL mites will target drone brood if the drones are available. It COULD BE that there is a population of mites out there who prefer worker brood and it COULD BE that drone trapping will select for that portion of the varroa population. Current research has not detected that population (which does not mean it does does not exist) and if every beekeeper starts trapping drones, then that heretofore undetected portion of the varroa population could come to the forefront. All the more reason to use drone trapping as part of an IPM strategy rather than the sole weapon. Aaron Morris - thinking too many problems, too few solutions! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 17:16:26 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rimantas Zujus Subject: Re: geografical position Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-4" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Conrad Sigona >conrad@ntcnet.com>writes: >Are we trying to establish location or climate? > You are quite right. But as concerns my curiosity both are interesting. With respect Rimantas Zujus Kaunas LITHUANIA e-mail : zujus@isag.lei.lt http://www.online.lt/indexs.htm http://www.lei.lt 55 North, 24 East ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 11:17:55 +0200 Reply-To: jtemp@xs4all.nl Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jan Tempelman Organization: Home Subject: Re: Drones and Varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >From the introducion of the dronemethode: (perhaps it helps) Varroa mites propagate in brood cells. Research from the University of Wageningen (The Netherlands) has shown that the Varroa mites are 12 times more likely to enter drone cells versus worker cells. Therefore, If a situation is created wherein all of the mites are on the bees (and not in any brood) it is possible to catch a high percentage of the mites with a couple of drone cell brood frames. Capturing mites in broodless hives with drone cell frames is very effective. A broodless period is essential to this method since the mites, all on the bees, will be caught in the drone cells. This principle is used in biotechnical mite control methods. rest on: http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/dronemethod.html greeting , jan Vince Coppola wrote: > At the time > > when one employs the drone trapping method there is plenty of drone > > brood available to accommodate (play host to) all the varroa within a > > hive. It is not until late in the season when there is not enough > > drone brood to go around that varroa migrate to worker brood. > > Presumably when drone trapping, the dynamics of the varroa population > > change. You only select for varroa who prefer worker brood if you let > > the dynamics reach that point. If you're drone trapping right through > > the season the mites never reach the point that they are forced to ------------------------------------------------- home of the drone frame method. de darreraat methode ------------------------------------------------- http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html Jan Tempelman mailto:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 ------------------------------------------------- -- ------------------------------------------------- home of the drone frame method. de darreraat methode ------------------54N----5E---------------------- http://www.xs4all.nl/~jtemp/index3.html Jan Tempelman mailto:jtemp@xs4all.nl Sterremos 16 3069 AS Rotterdam, The Netherlands Tel/Fax (SOMETIMES) XX 31 (0)10-4569412 ------------------------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 20:21:10 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rimantas Zujus Subject: Re: Russian Bees and varroa Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE119E.A62B19A0" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE119E.A62B19A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-4" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >Ted Fischer >Dexter, Michigan USA >Is there any information as to the race of these bees? Are they >Caucasion or Carniolan bees, or some other race? > Dear Beefriends According to one Russian "Handbook for beekeeper", 1984, Moscow, by NL Burenin, UDK 638.1 (031) the races are as follows (in the area of the former SU): Middle Russian - natural area Middle and North Europe. Brought in North America-17 century, South America and Australia - 18 century, Asia - 19 century.They are the greatest except Italian race. Aggressive. Very swarming. Not suitable for south areas. Length - 5.6 to 6.3 mm, one day = mass 110 mg, unmated queen -190 mg, mated - 200 to 210 mg, lays up to1500 - = 2000 eggs daily. Honey yield 12.7 to 41 kg/hive/year (average 28 kg, yield depends on region). Nothing is said about Varroa resistance. Grey Caucasian (of mountains) - natural area mountain area of North = Caucasus and behind Caucasus. Very peaceful. The longest tongue of all races - 6.6 to 7.2 mm, mass-90, queen mass - 180 (200), eggs 1100 to 1500. Low swarming. Honey yield 4 = to 58, average 29kg. Yellow Caucasian - natural area lowland of Georgia, Armenia, = Azerbaidzhan. Tongue 6.5 to 6.9, mass 80 to 90, queen mass 180 (200), eggs 1100 to = 1700, good for hot dry climate, don't vent hive in heat just sit calmly. Peaceful. Carpathian , (mountains Ukraine) - tongue - 6.3 to 7.0, mass 110, queen = 185 (205), eggs 1200 to 1800. Very peaceful, honey 30 to 40 kg. Ukrainian steppe - natural area South Ukraine, derived of Middle Russian south branch , tongue 6.3 to 6.7, mass 105, queen mass 180 (200), eggs = 1100 to 1500. Middle aggressiveness, honey 30 to 40 kg. Maybe, it helps. Best wishes Rimantas Zujus Kaunas LITHUANIA e-mail : zujus@isag.lei.lt http://www.online.lt/indexs.htm http://www.lei.lt 55 North, 24 East ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE119E.A62B19A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-4" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>Ted Fischer
>Dexter, Michigan USA

>Is there any = information as to the race of these bees?  Are = they
>Caucasion or=20 Carniolan bees, or some other race?
>

Dear=20 Beefriends

According to one Russian "Handbook for = beekeeper",=20 1984, Moscow, by NL
Burenin, UDK 638.1 (031)
the races are as = follows (in=20 the area of the former SU):

Middle Russian - natural area Middle = and=20 North Europe. Brought in North
America-17 century, South America and=20 Australia - 18 century, Asia - 19
century.They are the greatest = except=20 Italian race. Aggressive. Very
swarming. Not suitable for south = areas. Length=20 - 5.6 to 6.3 mm, one day mass
110 mg, unmated queen -190 mg, mated - = 200 to=20 210 mg, lays up to1500 - 2000
eggs daily. Honey yield 12.7 to 41 = kg/hive/year=20 (average 28 kg, yield
depends on region). Nothing is said about = Varroa=20 resistance.

Grey Caucasian (of mountains) - natural area mountain = area of=20 North Caucasus
and behind Caucasus.
Very peaceful. The longest = tongue of=20 all races - 6.6 to 7.2 mm, mass-90,
queen mass - 180 (200), eggs 1100 = to=20 1500. Low swarming. Honey yield 4 to
58, average 29kg.

Yellow=20 Caucasian - natural area lowland of Georgia, Armenia, = Azerbaidzhan.
Tongue=20 6.5 to 6.9, mass 80 to 90, queen mass 180 (200), eggs 1100 to = 1700,
good for=20 hot dry climate, don't vent hive in heat just sit=20 calmly.
Peaceful.

Carpathian , (mountains Ukraine) - tongue - = 6.3 to=20 7.0, mass 110, queen 185
(205), eggs 1200 to 1800. Very peaceful, = honey 30 to=20 40 kg.

Ukrainian steppe - natural area South Ukraine, derived of = Middle=20 Russian
south branch , tongue 6.3 to 6.7, mass 105, queen mass 180 = (200),=20 eggs 1100
to 1500. Middle aggressiveness, honey 30 to 40 = kg.

Maybe, it=20 helps.

Best wishes
Rimantas = Zujus
Kaunas
LITHUANIA

e-mail=20 : zujus@isag.lei.lt
http://www.online.lt/indexs.htm<= /A>
http://www.lei.lt
55 North, 24=20 East






------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE119E.A62B19A0-- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 18:33:13 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Slade Subject: Re: Horizontal v vertical extensions Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Matthew asks whether it would be a good idea to join two Langstroths side by side for brood rearing. There appears to be a tendency for traditional beekeepers nearer the equator to have their hives horizontally arranged and for northerners to have vertical hives. The presumption is that in cooler areas heat is used more economically in a vertical stack. The question is whether the beekeepers were following the inclination of the bees or just using local materials, eg living trees as opposed to earthenware jars on their sides, in the easiest way for the beekeeper. I don't know the climate of CO (Colorado?) where Matthew is keeping his bees but he is using Carniolan bees from what I assume originally to have been a forested area with cold winters where vertical hives were probably the rule. In Germany where bees outside are kept in vertical stacks they often use bee houses in which the bees are kept in drawers like a filing cabinet. I suspect the bees will manage to adapt to whatever type of box you keep them in without it making a measureable difference. If CO has hot summers and cold winters try them in a longstroth in the summer and an upstroth in the winter. Let us know what you find. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 15:43:51 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: beekeeping with scutellata MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Garth wrote: > would geuss is that if 15 000 colonies of feral bees > are removed from a city like Mexico city (every year), then there > must be at least 40 000 feral colonies that have not been removed. Just FYI, Tucson, Arizona -( not so different from the Transvaal or other areas ?), now has upwards of 6,000 swarms being removed by commercial outfits yearly, and even now (Mid November), one removal expert told me they are getting 60 calls per day. The migratory phase seems to kick in about October, and is still little understood ( or investigated). Where are the locust specialists when we really need them ?.... - John Edwards, Tucson Bee Lab, Arizona ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 15:16:59 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: "killer" bees returns MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Andy Nachbaur wrote: > > I am somewhat disappointed in the fact that no solution has been found for > this aggressive behavior as I know there is one and believe it will turn > out to be simple and have nothing to do with DNA or the WWII science of > morphometrics. I suspect to much effort is being made in identifying > problems and looking for new ones and I am sure more will be found. > > ttul, Andy- > Los Banos, Left Coast of the Republic of America I certainly agree, and would add that the most effective and prob cheapest solution is the one we all know - requeening. But, the problem is that I see no large beekeeper near here willing to ship in queens and risk having them superceded as has happened in other areas. As an aside, Andy, I recognize that you have a truly unique perspective on problems in southern Arizona because of your work here, and when you write about this or other areas, I listen. - John Edwards, Tucson, Arizona p.s. - One idea I can't seem to keep lit around the lab is the need for new size(s) of excluders to deal with these "new" smaller queens. maybe some on this list might try punching out a few this winter and researching - this needs quite a few tests. je. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 08:21:20 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rimantas Zujus Subject: Re: Russian Bees and varroa Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-4" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Ted Fischer >Dexter, Michigan USA >Is there any information as to the race of these bees? Are they >Caucasion or Carniolan bees, or some other race? > Dear Beefriends According to one Russian "Handbook for beekeeper", 1984, Moscow, by NL Burenin, UDK 638.1 (031) the races are as follows (in the area of the former SU): Middle Russian - natural area Middle and North Europe. Brought in North America-17 century, South America and Australia - 18 century, Asia - 19 century.They are the greatest except Italian race. Aggressive. Very swarming. Not suitable for south areas. Length - 5.6 to 6.3 mm, one day mass 110 mg, unmated queen -190 mg, mated - 200 to 210 mg, lays up to1500 - 2000 eggs daily. Honey yield 12.7 to 41 kg/hive/year (average 28 kg, yield depends on region). Nothing is said about Varroa resistance. Grey Caucasian (of mountains) - natural area mountain area of North Caucasus and behind Caucasus. Very peaceful. The longest tongue of all races - 6.6 to 7.2 mm, mass-90, queen mass - 180 (200), eggs 1100 to 1500. Low swarming. Honey yield 4 to 58, average 29kg. Yellow Caucasian - natural area lowland of Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaidzhan. Tongue 6.5 to 6.9, mass 80 to 90, queen mass 180 (200), eggs 1100 to 1700, good for hot dry climate, don't vent hive in heat just sit calmly. Peaceful. Carpathian , (mountains Ukraine) - tongue - 6.3 to 7.0, mass 110, queen 185 (205), eggs 1200 to 1800. Very peaceful, honey 30 to 40 kg. Ukrainian steppe - natural area South Ukraine, derived of Middle Russian south branch , tongue 6.3 to 6.7, mass 105, queen mass 180 (200), eggs 1100 to 1500. Middle aggressiveness, honey 30 to 40 kg. Maybe, it helps. Best wishes Rimantas Zujus Kaunas LITHUANIA e-mail : zujus@isag.lei.lt http://www.online.lt/indexs.htm http://www.lei.lt 55 North, 24 East ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 18:53:17 -0500 Reply-To: dublgully@worldnet.att.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Gaida Subject: ABF Convention MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was glad to see Allen's invitation to get together. And that Rick and Nancy will also be at the convention. Dave and I also plan on attending. I know Master George and his bee partner will also be there. I would like to extend another invitation. Dave and I live about 30 miles south of Cincinnati, Ohio, just 9 miles off Interstate 75 in Kentucky. (A very winding 9 miles :>) ) We have 3 spare bedrooms and hearts large enough to accommodate people to fill them. We love company and would bee pleased if you are traveling, and need a place to stop over, that you would consider our home. We can even show you where our hives were, and our remaining ladies. I am an outrageous down home cook (ask anyone at our bee club) and enjoy cooking for a crowd. We are 2 exits south (about 8 miles) of where Interstate 71 splits from Interstate 75 in Kentucky. It is about 6 to 7 hours on to Nashville from here; or 3 hours to Kelley's. A comfortable distance. I hope you can tell from our posts that we are fun-loving creatures. Sometimes a little dumber than dirt, but enjoying ourselves tremendously. Our farm is remote and quiet. Please, let us know when to expect you. Noticed our Buckfast bringing in a very bright yellow pollen today. Searched all through the woods and fields. We have had about 2 weeks of nights below freezing and days about 50 - 55 deg. F. Everything looked brown and dried to me. Then I spotted a bee - working dandelions! In November! Judy in Kentucky 84.5 West; 38.5 North (At least, I think, that's what Dave told me to write) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 15:17:35 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: James Loveless Subject: Re: geografical position Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII ** Proprietary ** I for one would like everyone to use USDA planting Zones. When someone tells me they are in Zone 3, I know what their season and climate is like. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 15:30:04 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: "killer" bees returns MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom Elliott wrote: > I am sure a little thought would produce many solutions, and I agree > wholeheartedly that what you folks need are solutions not more problems. > -- > "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) > > Tom Elliott > Chugiak, Alaska > U.S.A. > beeman@gci.net Now here is someone who knows about problems - By the way, how DO you keep grizzlies out of your hives ????? John Edwards, Tucson, Arizona ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 02:49:31 PST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ross Peters Subject: Burr Comb MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Hi All, I've just removed a lot of bur comb from one of my hives. Can someone please advise me how to remove honey from it without an extractor. Is it worthwhile placing it back in the hive, after adding a new super and some more frames? Will the bees reuse it to build more cells? Thanks for your advice. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 15:52:50 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: geografical position MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit GPS reading was taken about 25 feet south of the southeast door to the main building, but you must always consider the source (government-controlled GPS satellites), which may give us precise data, but for their own reasons, inaccurate. Altogether, though, not bad for units that cost under $200. - never a lost beeyard again !! Rimantas Zujus wrote: > Dear John > > Such high accuracy I accept as some kind of joke :) > 0.001 min W corresponds with some 1,6 meter in your laboratory (32 deg > 16.497 min N) > You should mention the room and even the table you pointed. > > Sincerely Yours > > Rimantas > > > - John Edwards, Tucson, Arizona ( 32 deg 16.497 min N 110 deg 56.449 > min > >W at the Bee Lab) > > ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 16:01:59 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: geografical position Comments: To: ryarnell@orednet.org MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, yes, but also a hobby of mine for ten years or more in my real life outside work. As for the data, mine is as scrambled as anyone's - but I looked up Eugene's location in the back of an atlas. John Edwards, Tucson, etc,etc. (now if I could only get a job doing GPS work in Oregon after I retire from this job next year ! -any offers ????)je. Richard Yarnell wrote: > >Eugene, Oregon = 44.02 N 123.05 W > > > John Edwards, Tucson, Arizona ( 32 deg 16.497 min N, 110 deg 56.449 min W > > Such accuracy bespeaks employment by the USGovernment and access to some > pretty fancy, unfiltered GPS data! ;) > > -- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 16:10:40 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: Long. and Lat. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sid Pullinger wrote: > <<<<<<<. Eugene is positioned at > latitude 440 7' N, longitude 1230 13' W.>>>>>> > Put me right, please. Sid P. Most fonts don't like the degree symbol, so typed-in positions often go into whiplash with the extra zero. John Edwards, Tucson, (Township 13 S, Range 14 E), Arizona ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 16:28:44 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Organization: Hayden Bee Lab, USDA-ARS,Tucson, Arizona Subject: Re: geografical position MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the continuing interest in location I'm seeing, I will offer to look up and e-mail latitude and longitude for anyone needing this service - - then you could hopefully add this to your signature, so that we have a general idea of your climate and, by inference, vegetation. John Edwards, Tucson, Arizona - - just send the name of a nearby city to: edwards@tucson.ars.ag.gov