From MAILER-DAEMON Fri Sep 17 12:52:11 1999 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by luna.oit.unc.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA27266 for ; Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:08 -0400 (EDT) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA11068 for ; Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:04 -0400 (EDT) Message-Id: <199909171652.MAA11068@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:03 -0400 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9903D" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Content-Length: 198639 Lines: 4441 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 20:56:40 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Becky S Boehm Subject: bee blower Has anyone tried to use the Black and Decker battery powered broom (looks like a mini leaf blower) for blowing bees off the frames? If so how did it work? ok- not ok? Is there possibly something else small and portable and hopefully battery powered and maybe even inexpensive that works well? thanks in advance. Al Boehm Columbus North Carolina USA ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 20:07:56 -0600 Reply-To: lithar@midwest.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: AL Subject: honey in homebrew MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As I experiment with various homebrew recipes I wonder what effect adding a little honey for might have. The corn sugar, malt extract and other ingredients provide the fermentables, so the honey is begin considered from the flavoring aspect. BTW, to those of you who received a sample of my recent 'crop', let me assure you I am not talking about adding *that* to my beer:) AL ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 05:24:01 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Sreve Fleischaker Subject: Re: yellow jasmine Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit << The forsythia is a decidious shrub, with the blooms appearing before the leaves pop out in the spring. Jasmine on the other hand is more of a fast growing evergreen vine >> Yellow Jasmine - Carolina Jessamine: vine from gelsomino, Italian for jasmine (evergreen); Gelsemium sempervirens, family Loganiaceae. Forsythia - golden-bells, family Oleaceae, - decisuous shrub that bloom before spring leaves show, 6 or 7 spp ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 13:44:22 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: tomas mozer Subject: Re: yellow jasmine/jessamine? Comments: To: menier@CIMRS1.MNHN.FR appears to bee some confusion in common name spellings as well as symptoms: from 'florida bee botany" by m.t.sanford,extension apiculturist,univ.of fla.(usa): "yellow jessamine, gelsenium sempervivens...is a woody vine...occurring from central peninsular florida northwards...blooms from february to march...has been reported as being toxic to honey bees and responsible for reducing colony strength in some areas." from r.j.barker,"poisoning by plants" in "honey bee pests,predators, and diseases, 2nd edition" r.a.morse&r.nowogrodzki,editors [copyright 1990 by cornell university]: yellow jessamine, or carolina jessamine: gelsemium sempervivens (loganiaceae) "...grows from virginia,usa, to guatemala...yields pollen and probably some nectar... bees associated with the blooms became paralyzed and died [ref.cited]...more young nurse bees than field bees seemed to be killed, so the toxin was suspected to be in the pollen [ref.cited]...brood was not killed...sugar syrup containing jessamine blossoms was fed to bees...did not increase mortality [ref.cited]...the possibility of insoluble toxins in pollen and the dilution effect of the sugar syrup needed consideration..." ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 13:44:22 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: tomas mozer Subject: Re: no varroa? Comments: To: gmc@HCIS.NET beeman wrote: > i have a hive that seems to never have any varroa... > is there anyway of testing the bees to see if they are varroa resistant?? check out the HIP (honeybee improvement program)... From: griffes@my-dejanews.com Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Subject: Re: isolated hives and mites Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 11:14:19 GMT Suggestion: use resistant stock when it is available. Caveat: unfortunately stock resistant to Varroa is still in developmental stages here at HIP and elsewhere. The genetic puzzle on that one has not really been figured out so we are essentially looking for invisible needles in large haystacks. You can see colonies that are doing what needs doing - namely not just surviving but actually thriving for 2 years completely untreated for either mite IN ANY WAY - however it must be multiple gene because getting it to pass on reliably has yet to be fully accomplished. Since 1993 when HIP was started we have made progress however - our test then only required a one year untreated phase to clearly point out breeders - now it requires a two year untreated phase. Increasing to a two year untreated test does not just double the difficulty - it exponentially increases it for several reasons not the least of which is queen longevity (use marked queens). In 1993 and 1994 we saw one completely untreated commercial operation lose 80% each year. Now in 1999 one of our HIP Cooperators is reporting 30% loss in his yard of first year untreated stock (with zero loss in the acual HIP stock in his 1st year test yard) and 70% loss in his 2 year Untreated Thriving Survival test yard. This is against a backdrop of only 3% operation wide loss of treated colonies (bulk of each operation is treated in HIP program - only test colonies are risked) at this time - but it should be noted that it is still early and MUCH winter loss actually occurs in March and even April hereabouts though not generally for that particular HIP Cooperator. To the point - the hand selected test stock has survived for two years untreated better than originally was happening with stock left untreated just one year. But we are as yet a good long ways off our HIP goal - which is 80+% untreated survival of naturally mated daughters of HIP Breeder Queens. We could use more help in getting there. If any of you mainland USA folks would like to help - let me know. Most of our Cooperators are in MI but we count Kirk Webster of VT as well as Steve Cantu of FL among our HIP Cooperators so difficulties revolving around distance can be overcome with proper determination and patience. We recently picked up another 5 HIP Cooperators here in MI putting us up to 14 Cooperators now and I think we now break the 10,000 colony mark by a goodly margin - so we have more hay to sort through and that means we will find more needles to make use of cooperatively. We use both NM and AI and requeen mainly with cells. Last years daughter queens that do well provid this years drones out in the field. The more Cooperators in a given area the better the odds of getting your stock mated nearly pure with HIP drones - a community effort definitely helps and it does make a difference what drones are used. Also HIP cells can be purchased even by non-Cooperators and that helps Cooperators fund the effort too. If you live in MI or FL let me know and I can get you the phone number of our main HIP cell producers. Jack Griffes Country Jack's Honeybee Farm http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/ -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 18:07:34 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Simics Subject: Apidictor Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi All, One may find Wood's Apidictor is an interesting tool to detect early swarming, queenlessness, etc, but the device is not new, but part of history. There was an article in the American Bee Journal written by Ing O. Vancata who designed a device based on Wood's research. The device is small and built with semiconductors. You can contact him for more information at: Address: Ing O. Vancata Vallonvagen 2D 730 50 Skultuna Sweden Reference to his article: Ing O. Vancata (1995) Using acoustic technology to monitor your hives. ABJ., Vol. 135, No. 9, pp. 615-618 There is a US. patent held by Howard T. Kerr, Michael E. Buchanan and Kenneth H. Valentine (see references) to detect AHB from European honey bees. It lists publications related to this topic. Some of the bandpass filters (low-pass and high-pass) can be modified to your needs. The circuit diagram of the device is presented in the paper (no component values listed). You can use inexpensive operational amplifers and LED to build your device and display the results of readings. Simple design of bandpass filters can be found in the book: Don Lancaster: Active-Filter Cookbook, Sans, Carmel, ID, USA, 1975, ISBN 0-672-21168-8. You can obtain a copy of the patent for around $15 Can. from a library, patent office or patent agency. The frequency range you may need to detect and display is well researched and it is not necessary to use sophisticated computer programs or frequency analyzers to come to the conclusion, but it sounds good. The listed references and Ing O. Vancata's article will give you the necessary information. In 1992-1993, I designed a similar device to detect queenless hives. I tested it in Febr.-April, 1993 in an apiary in Calgary. The device was capable of picking up the sounds of bees from the entrance of hive and based on the frequency range of the sound display queenright and queenless hives. A modified and improved device was planned to be designed for the next winter period and to test, but my dedication to bee venom collection and its time requirements never allowed me to proceed. Some of the references listed below can be helpful when you research, design and build your device. Please note Howard T. Kerr, Michael E. Buchanan and Kenneth H. Valentine's patent lists 10 more references. References: Claudia Dreller and Wolfgang H. Kirchner (1995): The sense of hearing in honey bees. Bee World, 76(1): 6-17 Howard T. Kerr, Michael E. Buchanan and Kenneth H. Valentine (1989) Method and device for identifying different species of honeybees. U.S. patent, No.: 4,876,721 Hayward G. Spangler (1994) Are the wingbeat frequencies of honey bees an indicator of populations or behavior? ABJ, Jan, pp. 53-55 Adrian M. Wenner (1964) Sound communication in honeybees. Scientific American, 210: 116-124 Adrian M. Wenner (1962) Sound production during waggle dance of the honey bee. Animal Behaviour, Vol. X, pp. 79-96 E. F. Woods (1956) Queen piping. Bee world, Vol. 37, No. 10, pp. 185-227 Honey bee sounds (1989) (in This Week in Science), Science, May, p. 627 Good Luck. Sincerely, Michael Simics Apitronic Services ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 20:21:53 -0800 Reply-To: compost@telusplanet.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Leischner Subject: Request for Observation Hive Photographs MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am doing volunteer work at the Calgary Zoo. I would like assistance locating colour pictures of observation hives preferrably with a lot of people around them. If you have some I could use with permission please contact me at your earliest convenience to make arrangements. Thanks for your assistance. Ted Leischner ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 10:55:25 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Re: Availability of pollen in early spring In-Reply-To: <0cbed1258091539CPIMSSMTPI06@email.msn.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barb asks "I have noticed what appears to be green, mustard and bright yellow colored "pollen" in the bee's baskets. I did not think that this was possible so early in the year, before flowers and trees begin to bloom. Is this really pollen? I live in a wooded area with farmland nearby." Yes, Barb, it is really pollen. At this time of year most of the pollen comes from trees that are blooming; especially maples and willows. These "blossoms" are inconspicuous to you and me, but highly attractive to the bees! They yield copious amounts of pollen and modest amounts of nectar. One of the joys of beekeeping is what you can learn about nature just by watching bee behavior. This summer, when you see the "winged" maple seeds twirling to the ground you will be reminded of how important maple trees (which people never think of as having flowers) are to the health of your bees. Lloyd Lloyd Spear Owner, Ross Rounds(tm). The finest in comb honey production. http://www.rossrounds.com -----Original Message----- From: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology [mailto:BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU] On Behalf Of RockyTop Farm Sent: Saturday, March 20, 1999 11:02 PM To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Subject: Availability of pollen in early spring Hello everyone, I am going into my first full year as a beekeeper in Southeast Pennsylvania. My question concerns the availability of pollen at this time of year. We have had several days of reasonable temperatures and my bees have been out of the hive. I have noticed what appears to be green, mustard and bright yellow colored "pollen" in the bee's baskets. I did not think that this was possible so early in the year, before flowers and trees begin to bloom. Is this really pollen? I live in a wooded area with farmland nearby. Thank you very much, Barb Miller ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 20:02:57 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gordon Scott Subject: Re: Apidictor (Electronic Swarm Predictor) In-Reply-To: <921807242.2111628.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Thu, 18 Mar 1999, Becky S Boehm wrote: > How would one keep an expensive microphone clean inside of a hive?? > Perhaps a different type of sensing device could be used, such as a > transducer? It's possible to get tiny electret condenser microphone capsules for a few pence (or cents). They need a voltage feed and a small amplifier, but the whole thing could be built for a couple of dollars including a battery. Try enquiring in Radio Shack/Tandy or wherever. I heard a while back that there is also a sudden temperature surge just before a swarm -- about 40 minutes? Unfortunately, you can probably see the activity starting by then, so the value is doubtful. I've been trying to remember what the problems were with the original experiments. Can't remember at the moment. G. -- Gordon Scott gordon@apis.demon.co.uk gordon@multitone.co.uk (work) Gordon's Apis Home Page Beekeeper; Kendo 3rd Dan, retd :-(; Sometime sailor. Hampshire, England. Linux -- Because I like to *get* there today. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 20:30:21 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Spiekhout Subject: Re: "Inside" Bucket Feeders Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit David Tharle said "don't over do it." I had not considered that one could over feed and guess I just assumed that when nectar was available, the bees would leave the feed for the nectar. What happens when you over feed and how much is too much? Richard ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:35:58 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Jean J. MENIER" Subject: Re: yellow jasmine Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: Quoted-Printable Dear bee-lers, I also questioned myself about the identity of yellow jasmine and got a personnal reply from a member of the list. Madelaine PYM is asking also what "yellow Jasmin" refers to. In Europe we have the genus _Jasminium_ (family Oleaceae). Two species are present in France : Jasminium fruticans (Jasmin jaune =3D Yellow jasmin) and J. officinale= (jasmin blanc =3D white jasmin). Our "yellow jasmin " is sometimes called "Spanish jasmin" and _ it blooms in the winter _ from january to march, depending of the local meteorological conditions, sometimes earlier in december. I've never seen any bees on it, ... I wander why ! Forsythia (Oleaceae) is now a very common shrub in Europe. I've never heard myself people calling it "Jasmin". It blooms from mid- march to beginning of april following conditions of course ... Apparently the US "Yellow jasmin" is something different. Following Rod Billett , Tomas mozer and (personnal communication, sorry I trashed you complete mail !) "yellow jessamine, or carolina jessamine refers to Gelsemium sempervivens (family Loganiaceae)". Sincerely, Jean J. Menier Professeur, Laboratoire d'Entomologie, Mus=E9um national d'Histoire naturelle, 45, rue Buffon, F-75005 PARIS T=E9l=E9phone : 01 40 79 33 93 (direct), ou 34 00 (standard du labo). T=E9l=E9copie : " " " " 36 99 >From foregin countries dial first 33 then 1 40 79 ... (no 0 before the 1) Site MNHN : http://www.mnhn.fr ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 20:55:46 -0700 Reply-To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Matthew Subject: Re: Another Oak Has Fallen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >From a beekeeper whom stands in the ranks at the back, I can say Andy Nachbar was well read by Bee-L. Andy contributed 105 posts since July of last year (1998- 1999)... keeping us abreast on subjects from news of honey price support to amusing beekeeper memories. >From the majority whom have benefitted by the knowledge Andy and other Bee-L members have cared to share with us - thanks. You'll be missed by more than your close friends Andy. Matthew Westall - Castle Rock, CO ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:01:26 -0500 Reply-To: BobCan@TDPI.Com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob Subject: Caught off guard. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Being new to beekeeping I have been studying as many books as I can and trying to do all my homework I am have missed a few pages or something as I have this problem. My plan was to start with 1 deep super then go to a second deep super and when they are built up use mediums for honey supers. Well, now to my delima, I now have confused myself after purchasing hive full of bees that are configured as a deep super with a medium super sitting on top of it which appears to be filled with honey and broad. Now my question is, at some point I want to take the medium off and place a deep super on the present deep. What do I do with the medium box and the frames that are full of a mix of broad and honey and I want to use mediums for honey only. I have a feeling that in the fall I will putting myself in the same situation when I give the extra honey from the mediums for overwintering which means I probably will be placing a medium on my supers. DO I have this all mixed up or am I on a south bound train wanting to go north? Thanks! ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 08:54:17 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: yellow jasmine Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/19/99 10:53:15 AM Eastern Standard Time, rbillett@SCTCORP.COM writes: > Here is South Carolina we have both Forsythia and Jasmine. > They are two different plants. > > The forsythia is a decidious shrub, with the blooms appearing > before > the leaves pop out in the spring. Forsythia is a yard shrub, probably not native, and along the coast, will often bloom all winter. > Jasmine on the other hand is more of a fast growing evergreen > vine > (there may be a variety that is more shrublike, but i believe it > is evergreen as well). > > Before everyone crushes me, I do not know the scientific name of > either. Yellow jasamine is Gelsemium sempervirens. It blooms in early spring. I believe it is native, at least it grows freely in the wild and is very common. It is a vine, often growing on fences, or up small trees at the edge of a forest. In checking a guidebook, it mentions that all parts of the plant are poisonous. It says children have been poisoned by sucking nectar from the flowers, apparently thinking it was honeysuckle. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html The Pollination Home Page: http://www.pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 21:55:11 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Midnitebee Subject: Andy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >At 08:11 PM 2/22/99 -0500, you wrote: >It is with great sadness that I have to tell you that Andy passed away on >3/17/99. a very sad day indeed..God bless Andy. Herb ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:47:52 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Rod Billett Subject: Demaree method... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello all. I have a few questions relating to the Demaree method. First, I've read the sections in Hive & HoneyBee and ABC|XYZ and all did a good job of explaining how to do the major 'shuffle'. I searched Bee-L (Demaree, Demare, Swarm Prevention) and came up with references to Demaree, but no concrete discussion of the method. I am a hobbiest who started last spring with two hives, and have two really strong hives sitting in my back yard, I do not want to increase my number of hives, and want to retain the strength of my hives. A recent inspection revealed the construction of Swarm cells in one hive, and I noticed laid eggs in several of them. So Saturday, I Demareed the Hive - Shaking all the frames to increase my chances of 'finding that last queen cell'. No cells were capped, most had an egg, or royal jelly in them, So I hope i caught it in time. I will go back into the hive next weekend to check for emergency cells in the upper brood area. All the readings are very good at describing the initial process, but there is very little info on how to recombine the 'halves' once the nectar flow has started. My intuition is telling me to move broodless frames from the top back to the bottom on a weekly basis, so the queen can continue laying. Any information on how to proceede with this part of the process would be greatly appreciated. Also, for a hobbiest, this method looks as if it could be used in a proactive method instead of a reactive method for swarm prevention. Any Experiences? Rod Billett Lexington, SC USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:54:40 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gauthier Buddy J Subject: Unknown Bee product MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A few months ago, I received a gift of bee keeping items; some known = and others unknown. Could I get some help in deciphering what this may be? = First of all, it is written in German, so here goes: APOTHEKER SCHNEIDERS BIENENTEE-EXTRAKT Noch bedeutend vollwertiger als mein verbesserter Bienentee, da aus = diesem nach Vorschrift des Deutschen Arzneibuches hergestelit. GroBe Zeiteinsparung, weil keine Teezubereitung mehr potwendig! Verwendungsvorschrift: Zur Reizfutterung : 10g =3D 1 Teeloffel voll fur 10 liter = Zuckerlosung Zur Einfutterung: 5g =3D =BD Teeloffel voll fur 10 Liter = Zuckerlosung Als Zusatz zum Trankenwasser: Fur 20 Liter Wasser 5g Bienentee-Extrakt. W?er?ig: Vor dem Gebrauch gut umschutteln Ur? Nach Zusatz stets gut vermischen! (?) =3D faded out part of = label Has a picture of a bee with pollen baskets full. =20 Honie Muggersdorff Buddy Gauthier Computer Systems Analyst Cameco Industries, Inc. Thibodaux, LA 70301 Phone: (504)448-0339 Fax: (504)435-4704 Email: T802273@deere.com =20 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:57:16 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Landolfi Subject: QUEEN REARING Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Hello, I am fairly new to the list and beekeeping. My friend in California got me hooked. Now my question is, can anyone out there point me in the right direction on obtaining information on rearing queens? I am looking for all the equipment I will need and the proper procedures. I have looked on several web pages, but have only found brief descriptions of the procedures. I am also looking for information on how to split the hive successfully. Any assistance on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you NM, Beekeeper BOB (DUFFOOS) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:53:01 -0500 Reply-To: Alan Pagliere Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Alan Pagliere Subject: Re: Dying hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Thanks to all that responded, on and off the list, to my post about my colony. Among the responses were two very kind offers to come look at the hive, one from Don Rahman in Toledo and one from Ted Fischer in Dexter, MI. I took up Mr. Fischer's offer since he is relatively speaking just down the road. Here's the diagnosis. My worry about too much space left on the hive for the bees to warm was, as seen from many posts, unfounded. Bees warm their cluster and do not warm the rest of the hive. What I was, in my inexperience and ignorance, worried was some kind of decaying brood was in fact crystallized honey (I had never seen crystallized honey so white - now I know better). The entrance reducer on the bottom had a small opening, not big enough for a mouse but big enough for ventilation. The top super had a hole (about 3/4 inch) drilled in the front (the bees always use that as an alternate entrance). The inner cover had the usual semicircle cut out on one side (which the bees also use as an entrance from time to time). I had thought that would be adequate ventilation, but I suppose not. Here is the real story. When Mr. Fischer and I opened up the hive on Saturday, we found more activity, more population, than I had seen a few days earlier. Not a lot of bees mind you, but some. He noticed a queen, young, small, and as I looked at her, I noticed she was not marked. My original queen had been. There was a small cluster of brand new eggs nicely laid in an area in the lower of the two supers. Here is the theory. The original queen was superceded very, very late last season. Not late enough to prevent her from mating however. Since it was too late for her to start laying, the population dwindled faster than it might have otherwise. I also think it must have been very late, because during my last fall visit to the hive, I noticed no signs of supercedure in the form of cells. Anyways, now, coming out of the worst of the winter, the bees are starting up, the queen has started laying. There was no brood, there were only a few eggs, and clearly on a couple of days old. Since there is a queen who has started laying, and since there seem to be just enough bees to start a colony (almost as if I had just bought a package), we decided to remove one of the two deep brood boxes I had (will save for my new hive since it has lots of pollen and honey), dump all the bees into the one remaining deep, put on an excluder and then put the two supers with capped honey on top of that. I will probably lose the few eggs in the super comb, but it is a very small loss compared to the benefit of getting the queen laying back in the brood area where all the pollen is. Another thing done was to shim up the back of the bottom board to help tilt the hive forward and drain moisture. So. All is not as dire as I had thought. The hive is weak but not diseased. Small new queen, but laying. seems well. The cause of my problems were likely not disease, but just mediocre ventilation and a strange bit of timing, where the queen was superceded very late in the season. So, several lessons learned here for all you other hobbyist/beginners. Tilt your hive forward, ventilate better than you think you should, and whenever possible, get the on-location advice of an experienced beekeeper, especially one like Mr. Fischer. Thanks again. ---------------------------------- Alan Pagliere Ann Arbor, MI 48104-1205 ---------------------------------- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:38:37 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Waskey, Dick" Subject: Question about Varrola Resistance MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Just a note to say that the University of Minnesota is working on a line of bees that are very hygienic or should I say cleans house very well. These bees throw out sick bees, throw out things that might harm the hive. I don't know if you can just "TEST" these bees for resistance because it is a behavior...It's like saying people who take out there garbage every day have less flies (Disease) in there house than people who take it out only once a month. How could you "TEST" these people for disease resistance? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:11:19 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Christopher Sauer Subject: Re: Availability of pollen in early spring In-Reply-To: <199903220505.XAA08657@subcellar.mwci.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barb, Our apiaries are located in north-eastern Iowa and I noticed our first pollen coming in this weekend as well. The box elder and willow around our place usually come in first. Chris Colesburg Apiaries ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 10:13:22 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Thom Bradley Subject: Re: honey in homebrew MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Al, I have been brewing for about seven years with several major competition awards under my belt. That said: The sugars in raw honey are nearly 100% fermantable. The effect of adding raw honey to wort and adding hearty yeast is to significantly raise the alcohol content and and increase the apparent "dry" mouthfeel and taste of the beer/wine. As such, in order to keep the yeast from stressing you may want to add some yeast nutrient to your wort. You can affect the amount of fermentable sugar in the honey by carmelizing the honey prior to adding it to your wort. To do this, in a seperate operation from your wort boil, heat the undiluted honey in a clean pot on your stovetop to about 200 or so Deg F. the exact temp is not important and you can experiment. Be sure to stir regularly as the honey will burn if not tended. Keep the honey hot for a while until you notice it start to appear darker. This is the beginiing of the Carmelization process. Essentially it is the same as creating a Caramel grain. Add to your sweet wort within the last couple of minutes of boil or later. You must be careful not to scorch the sugars again, and boilovers. The honey can be added directly to you carboy prior to or after your wort addition if desired. You will not need to be concerned with wild yeasts and contamination as the honey will be at a high temp for longer than 30 minutes. If you are nervous, just add it to your boil just before transfer. You can place the honey in your oven to make it easier to keep at temp without having to adjust the burner on your stove. Continue until you get the color you will come to associate with a particular flavor. The effect will be a varying degree ( depending on level of caramelization) of red color (carmel makes beer red), head retention (due to addition of residual sugars), apparent sweetness, and an apparent caramel flavor, occaisionally a detectable honey odor (if a large amount is used). Drawback may be a cold haze developed due to addition of proteins. Honey with the addition of yeast nutrient is a great yeast starter. This is a good use of honey acquired from the solar melter. Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA AL wrote: > As I experiment with various homebrew recipes I wonder what effect > adding a little honey for might have. The corn sugar, malt extract and > other ingredients provide the fermentables, so the honey is begin > considered from the flavoring aspect. > > AL ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:07:45 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Welcome to BEE-L MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT I revised the BEE-L WELCOME file which I had anticipated would have been sent to those CONFIRMing their BEE-L subscriptions. Unfortunately the file is only send to new subscribers. For the benefit of all subscribers I am posting the BEE-L WELCOME file here. I hope everyone will read it in its entirity. Sincerely, Aaron Morris Welcome to BEE-L, which is perhaps the oldest, continuously running LISTSERV discussion list dealing with the "Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology". Prior to participating on BEE-L, subscribers are encouraged to become familiar with the tools that support this LISTSERV list as well as being aware of the guidelines for making submissions to the list. Please read this entire document before jump- ing into the fray! Consider saving this document for future review. And again, welcome to BEE-L! First and foremost, BEE-L is a LISTSERV list. LISTSERV is a software package written to support many different dis- cussion lists, only one of which is BEE-L. It is imperative that subscribers understand the difference between LISTSERV and BEE-L - LISTSERV is the provider of services to list us- ers. Requests for list services must be sent to LISTSERV. A summary of LISTSERV user commands is available and can be retrieved by sending a single line of mail to: LISTSERV@cnsibm.albany.edu that reads: GET LISTSERV REFCARD LISTSERV will return a short (less than 300 lines) summary of commands sufficient for most users. Subscribers are en- couraged to get, read and keep LISTSERV REFCARD Distinct from service requests of LISTSERV are submissions of discussion to the list. Submissions of discussion, called posts, are sent as mail addressed to: BEE-L@cnsibm.albany.edu BEE-L is a moderated list, meaning that ALL submissions to the list are first sent to the list moderators for review and approval prior to distribution to subscribers. To as- sist with "round the clock, spanning the globe coverage", the four BEE-L moderators reside in three countries on two continents. Any one of the BEE-L moderators may approve a submission, whereas for a submission to be denied general distribution, ALL moderators must withhold their approval. Very little communication takes place between the list mod- erators regarding individual submissions, for the most part "votes" are cast silently. If a moderator cares not to ap- prove a submission he or she simply withholds approval. It only takes one approval for a submission to be distributed, whereas it must be a unanimous decision for a submission to be denied. Provided that the guidelines for submission are followed, anything submitted is approved. However, many submissions are rejected because they do not follow the guidelines for submission as stated herein. Guideline for BEE-L Submissions 1. Do not include excessive quotes of previous submissions. If you must quote previous postings, include only what is necessary to make your point. Submissions that in- clude the entirety of previous posts will be rejected without comment or notice. 2. Submit your posts as TEXT ONLY! There are many sub- scribers whose mailers will not interpret text markup languages and to them submissions which include markup characters (such as HTML) appear as gibberish. Sub- missions to BEE-L must be in the lowest common denomina- tor for all subscribers, which is TEXT ONLY! Posts submitted to BEE-L in markup languages will be rejected without notice. 3. Binary file attachments are not allowed on BEE-L. Simi- lar to markup languages, many subscribers have mailers not able to decipher binary file attachments (such as MS Word attachments). Submissions with binary attachments are never approved by the list moderators, most times without notice. Suggestions for binary attachments in- clude deciphering them at your end to include in the text of your submission or making them available at your site and advertising their availability on BEE-L. Please verify your URLs. If detected, submissions with invalid or nonexistant URLs will not be approved, possi- bly without notice. 4. Do not send personal responses to the entire list. If Bea Keepr posts something to the list that inspires you to write to Bea, DO NOT send your personal response to BEE-L, send it to Bea! Only send to the list that which you want read by everyone. Submissions to the list that appear to be personal responses are rarely approved by the list moderators, often without notice. 5. Trolling (name calling, baiting, incivility) is not tol- erated. Heated discussions are allowed, after all we're beekeepers and may not always agree. But as Rodney King put it, "Can't we all just get along?" This is a grey area up to the discretion of the moderators, but offend- ing submissions will be rejected without notice. 6. Do not send LISTSERV service requests to the list. Re- quests of LISTSERV for list services must be sent to: LISTSERV@cnsibm.albany.edu LISTSERV service requests sent to BEE-L are never ap- proved by the list moderators, no notice is given and the requested service is not provided. 7. Submissions to BEE-L must be related to the "Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology". SPAM is NEVER approved! Furthermore, submissions must be "Informed"! BEE-L is not intended to be a substitute for beginning texts on keeping bees. If your question is a basic beekeeping question, it has probably been asked and answered on BEE-L before, perhaps many times. Answers to frequently asked questions may be found by searching the BEE-L archives. Submissions of frequently asked questions may be approved or not, with or without notice. Approved frequently asked questions are often met with cries of "Search the Archives!". Cries of "Search the Archives!" are sometimes approved to drive home the point, but rarely. 8. Submissions to BEE-L should not contain misinformation. Although slow to admit it, the moderators do not know it all. However, blatant misinformation is rejected with- out notice. Realizing there is a fine line between new, thought provoking ideas and misinformation the modera- tors strive for leniency in their judgment and prefer to err on the side of thought provoking ideas. Reader be- ware that if you read it here it ain't necessarily so! 9. BEE-L is not a marketplace. Product reviews are wel- come. Product announcements are tolerated. Repeated announcements and marketing are less welcome proportion- ately to their frequency. Advertisements may be re- jected without notice. 10. Lastly, long signature files are discouraged. A guide- line of five lines is suggested. Life histories and driving directions to your doorstep or place of business are strongly discouraged and are often rejected without notice. The BEE-L moderators and subscribers thank you in advance for adhering to these guidelines. We hope you find your BEE-L experience informative, engaging, educational and most importantly, fun! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:23:57 -0600 Reply-To: Martin Braunstein Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Martin Braunstein Subject: Re: IHEO: WEB PAGE...!!! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Allen and all, >This does not correspond to what we are seeing here in Canada or the >offers I am receiving by email from Argentinian beekeepers. Since more than a month elapsed since the IHEO report was delivered to it= s members, it is obvious the information that I reproduced will not necessarily match current market data. Neither the specific paragraph describes Canada situation nor it should have any connection with what is going on right n= ow in your country and in Argentina. So I don't really understand your statement aiming at discredit my assertions. By the way, bear in mind that the USA does not belong to IHEO, it is Cana= da (YOUR COUNTRY) who provides these data. Given the absence of US honey traders it shouldn't be surprising to find unaccuracies or misleading information. Since the president of IHEO is Mr. Wayne Rumball, why don't = you ask your friend about the authenticity of the information? >I wonder about the authenticity and the date of that report. If you wish I can refax you a copy of the report that I got so you can se= e it yourself. I have been receiving these reports since June 1998, you can have a copy from all of them if you want. I am sure Mr. Rumball will conf= irm both the authenticity and date of issuance. As far as I am concerned I have no reason to believe the reports are not true. I am sorry but I cannot disclose the source. After all he is an exporter too, but dislikes the procedures of this group. That is why he was so kin= d as to share this information with me. >At the particular timementioned, prices had already sunk below the 80 ce= nt Canadian >mark here and in past weeks I have seen offers around the 72 ce= nt mark and heard >that people had sold in that vicinity. ($1.00 Canadian is ~65 cents US) That 72 >Canadian cents translates into something more like $1030 / metri= c tonne, if I am >figuring correctly. Indeed I am sorry you got such bad prices for your honey. I guess you are right, maybe you are not figuring correcty. Why do you take for granted t= hat prices being paid to Canadians at a certain time should equal those paid = to US producers? I am subscribed to the American Beekeeping Federation - Hon= ey Market Faxline (bimonthly report), as per Report N=BA 104 issued on Feb. = 15 '99 they inform sales of US white honey at 58 cents a pound =3D $1276 met= ric tonne, considerably above the prices that you got paid. Please find below part of that same Feb. 15 IHEO report about Canada: "Actual Price: U$S 1200 / 1300 MT. Max: 15 mm, delivered USA packers, dut= y paid. U$S 1550 CFR EMP for Clover; U$S 1250 CFR EMP for 20 mm. (Import duty in = the USA is 1 cent per pound, which means U$S 22 per metric ton.) Buyers demand: LOW. General Comments: Most packers want to wait to see ho= w the market develops." >And, I guess I should step up here and stick up for a friend of mine... >I'd like to set things straight regarding Wayne, and maybe the IHEO, >seeing as his name came up and some things were said. I don't have the pleasure of knowing -your friend- Mr. Wayne Rumball so I cannot say anything about his reputation. But it really makes me suspicio= us that the organization he is president of, has had such a low profile duri= ng the last 16 years. Allen, don't you think I am right? How many times duri= ng the existence of BEE-L did you have the chance to debate seriously on world honey trade? How many times did the name of the IHEO was mentioned? Don't you think a CARTEL of exporters of any commodity have a lot of power? Lik= e it or not IHEO is a CARTEL, you don't need to be an economist to realize = it but to read a introductory book on Economics. >I've been aware of the IHEO for some time. In fact Wayne has mentioned >the organisation to me in our discussions of honey prices. He knows I'm= a >honey producer, and one with a big mouth to boot, so I don't think the >IHEO is a secret society -- in Canada at least. It may not be a secret society in Canada, OK. Why don't you ask down sout= h US beekeepers how many of them ever heard of IHEO? Why don't you ask Mr. Rumball to include you in his mailing list and to invite you to IHEO meetings? If he is your friend maybe he'll do it. >My understanding is that the IHEO has a strong interest in maintaining >orderly markets. I agree with you. As per IHEO perspective they are quite successful at maintaining an "orderly market", they succeeded in dumping the price. Bu= t as a commercial beekeeper what do you mean by maintaining orderly markets= ? According to IHEO Constitution it is "to defend the price of honey". Does= it mean to defend the interest of beekeepers? I don't think so. Whenever someone sells he wants the best price (beekeepers) , whenever someone buy= s (IHEO) he wants to pay the least money. This is real life and basic economics. > I hope we can continue it without demonizing any person or group, becau= se that way >we can all work together. So do I. It is not a matter of demonizing or sacralizing anybody but to unmask who is who in the world trade of honey and I am absolutely sure t= he IHEO has been a key player during the last few years. Regards, (P.S.: exporter of queens, not of honey) Martin Braunstein Queen Breeder & Exporter Criador de Reinas y Exportador Malka Cabania Apicola e-mail: malka@webnet.com.ar Phone (54+11)4446-8350 Fax (54+2322)487564 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:33:22 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Paul Nicholson Subject: Re: Caught off guard. Comments: To: BobCan@TDPI.Com In-Reply-To: <199903221355.FAA07496@alto1.altonet.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 8:01 -0500 3/22/99, Bob wrote: [snip] >Now my >question is, at some point I want to take the medium off and place a deep >super on the present deep. What do I do with the medium box and the frames >that are full of a mix of broad and honey and I want to use mediums for >honey only. Pull off your supers and place the new deep super below the original deep super on the bottom board. Brush the bees off the medium frames into the new deep super and then place original deep super and on the new deep. Place the queen excluder on top of the two deep supers. This way, you are guaranteed to have the queen below the excluder. If you get lucky and see the queen, it will suffice to make sure she is below the excluder. Then place the medium box on top of the excluder. Nurse bees will return to the medium super and finish raising the brood. Wait for the sring flow and warmer temperatures before you do this. If the hive population is small and it is still cold, the split brood nest may not gather enough nurse bees to keep temperatures up and finish raising the larvae. You may also want to come back in a couple of weeks and open up the top to let any drones caught abote the excluder escape. Paul ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:48:59 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Faith Andrews Bedford Subject: Re: death of Andy Nachbaur Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/21/99 9:12:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, sandler@AURACOM.COM writes: << It was very sad to hear of Andy's death. I file some letters from this list in folders, according to topic. I have one called "Pure Andy" >> I too, who never knew Andy, except for his wonderful letters, will sadly mis his wit and wisdom. Is there someone out there who saved them all? They might make a wonderful book....especially if we had the original letters to which he responded. He might have been right, or he might have been wrong, but he was never in doubt and he was never boring! I am only sorry now that I did not write him and thank him for his levity and knowledge. As a writer, I can vouch for the fact that he was a superb wordsmith, whether he aimed to be that or not. The world of bees is a sadder place for his passing. Faith Andrews Bedford Tampa and Ivy, VA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:32:34 PST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ernest Gregoire Subject: Wire Mesh Bottom Boards MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello Gang, Pussy Willows are blooming here in my neck of NH, but the weather is bad. Rain, wind, more rain, temps. in the mid-40s. So there won't be any bee flights today. I found time to search the Archives for Wire Mesh Bottom Boards, WMBB,and thought this would be a good time to challenge the group to do some research into just how they work in various parts of the world. Letting the Varroa drop through the wire mesh sounds like a good idea to me. Having been told that this will eliminate up to 15% of the mites, I am willing to give it a try. I use slatted racks in the winter and summer, but this year I want to try to use the WMBB in the summer. If they are built to regular bottom board size, then a plastic Varroa screen ( sprayed with Pam ) could be put underneath to count mite drop on occasion. What size mesh to use? Two ideas were submitted to the list: 1/4 inch mesh to aid in passage of bees through the floor, and serve as a shaded clustering place on a hot day. and : 1/8 inch mesh to allow the bees to walk on the floor more easily and still allow mites to drop through it.In both cases a coating of petroleum jelly on the wooden frame of the WMBB was suggested to keep energetic mites from possibly regaining entry to the hive. So there you have it. What do you think? Long term Varroa control may be incremental. Who is willing to give it a try? Keep good records and report the findings here. Year 2000 could see an improvement in Varroa control. I'd like to see FGMO worked into the research somehow too. Grist Mill Apiary Ernie Gregoire Canaan, NH.USA ------------------------------------- 03/22/99 12:32:34 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 10:26:03 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Roy Subject: Andy MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Andy's wit and knowledge will be missed.Over the years he has added much to this list.He was on the leading edge at getting information out to beekeepers, by the use of these computers. Andy was gifted and you could count on his posts to be anything but just informative. I thank Him for all the smiles that has brought to my face.I knew Him only through his posts and E-mail.He will be greatly missed. Andy, you made a difference. God Bless Roy Nettlebeck ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:49:19 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Faith Andrews Bedford Subject: Re: bee blower Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/22/99 1:40:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, beckwards@JUNO.COM writes: << Has anyone tried to use the Black and Decker battery powered broom (looks like a mini leaf blower) for blowing bees off the frames? If so how did it work? ok- not ok? >> Yup, this works just great. Since my honey house was the screen porch of our house (and is now our garage) it was close to an electrical outlet and I just plugged in my leaf blower, tipped the supers on their sides on the gate of my truck and blew the bees from the bottom of the super out through the top. Most of them left in a hurry. Faith Andrews Bedford ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 11:20:45 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Urs Schaufelbuhl Subject: Re: Unknown Bee product MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Buddy. I will insert the translation between the appropriate lines (as best as I can). Urs Schaufelbuehl have a BEEutiful day ;-) urschau@mars.ark.com http://mars.ark.com/~urschau/ ---------- > From: Gauthier Buddy J > To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU > Subject: Unknown Bee product > Date: Monday, March 22, 1999 5:54 AM > > A few months ago, I received a gift of bee keeping items; some known = > and > others unknown. Could I get some help in deciphering what this may be? = > First > of all, it is written in German, so here goes: > > APOTHEKER SCHNEIDERS > BIENENTEE-EXTRAKT BEE TEA EXTRACT > > Noch bedeutend vollwertiger als mein verbesserter Bienentee, da aus = even better improved then my previous improved beetea > diesem > nach Vorschrift des Deutschen Arzneibuches hergestelit. GroBe manufactured after recipe of the German drug book. Big > Zeiteinsparung, weil keine Teezubereitung mehr potwendig! time saver, because it is not necessary to make tea > > Verwendungsvorschrift: application: > Zur Reizfutterung : 10g =3D 1 Teeloffel voll fur 10 liter = to promote brood rearing: 10 gram=(3D) 1 teaspoon for 10 liter > Zuckerlosung sugar syrup > Zur Einfutterung: 5g =3D =BD Teeloffel voll fur 10 Liter = to feed syrup: 5 gram (=3D =BD) teaspoon for 10 liter > Zuckerlosung syrup > Als Zusatz zum Trankenwasser: Fur 20 Liter Wasser 5g Bienentee-Extrakt. as supplement to drinking water (for the bees): for 20 liters of water add 5 gram bee tea extract > > W?er?ig: Vor dem Gebrauch gut umschutteln (w?er?ig): shake well before use > Ur? Nach Zusatz stets gut vermischen! (?) =3D faded out part of = (Ur?) mix well with liquids > label > Has a picture of a bee with pollen baskets full. > =20 > Honie Muggersdorff > > Buddy Gauthier > > Computer Systems Analyst > Cameco Industries, Inc. > Thibodaux, LA 70301 > Phone: (504)448-0339 > Fax: (504)435-4704 > Email: T802273@deere.com =20 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:54:52 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gauthier Buddy J Subject: What to do with Bee-Tea MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Now you've seen the translation of the Bee-Tea Extract, any comments on the product? Is it an old product that is obsolete or does it have any value? It may be good to improve brood, but what does it exactly do? Any comments would bee greatly appreciated. Buddy Gauthier Computer Systems Analyst / Bee Hobbyist (1 Healthy Hive, 1 on the way) Cameco Industries, Inc. Thibodaux, LA 70301 Phone: (504)448-0339 Fax: (504)435-4704 Email: T802273@deere.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:43:30 -0700 Reply-To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Matthew Subject: Re: Drown-proof watering method MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lately I've been experimenting with a 'bee/water' solution to keep the 'house' bees out of my neighbor's hot-tub. After trying various feeders from bird-baths to planters, I've come to the conclusion that bees -try as they might -are really much better fliers than they are swimmers. We really have to applaud their courage as they seem to jump right in at the first opportunity to drown themselves. Here's a better method: Drop a few brightly colored sponges (yellow) into a planter or bird-bath. With a drop or two of honey to get them started, the bees will take right to the sponges and your drowning worries are over. Place your dish someplace where the water is in full sun. The only problem I haven't figured out is how to keep the sponges wet without watering everyday. Matthew Westall in Castle Rock, CO ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:54:35 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Andy Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Andy will be missed for many reasons. Like most of you, I never met him in person, but we had lots of exchanges - first when he launched his Bulletin Board and then as he developed his web page. I've often wondered about his background. Obviously, he had a long history with beekeeping - but where did the computer/information technology come from? I know he started out using UNIX as an operating system - not an easy course to pursue. Then he jumped to Windows for his web page - again not the easy route. Perhaps someone who knew him better could provide us with a bio. He definitely had strong opinions and didn't much like big government, nor many of the large research labs. He constantly challenged those of us in the research arena to provide answers to the tough problems. He and I disagreed over many things - but with a difference. We respected each other's knowledge and opinions - even when we were both sure the other was wrong. Never any name calling - at least not in a mean-spirited way. Actually, he was very supportive of our efforts to put bees on-line and to enable beekeepers to participate in our work. He tracked our observation hive, following its flight activity, pollen-gathering, and overall performance. I remember a message from him asking if we were in a pollen dearth, and that it looked like El Nino was affecting us too. It was a great "proof of the concept" that a beekeeper in California named Andy could "read" our hive as if he were standing in front of it. Great fun! I for one am going to miss his wit, his opinions, and his jabs. We seldom get the chance to debate fundamental issues with anyone, and Andy was alway s up for a lively discussion. It was great fun to get him to cede a point. And he won the point from us on many occassions. He will be missed as one of beekeeping's true innovators and one of the beekeeping industry's leading advocates. Our e-mail will certainly be less interesting and rather dull by comparison. I'll miss his posts. Cheers Jerry J. Bromenshenk, Ph.D. Director, DOE/EPSCoR & Montana Organization for Research in Energy The University of Montana-Missoula Missoula, MT 59812-1002 E-Mail: jjbmail@selway.umt.edu Tel: 406-243-5648 Fax: 406-243-4184 http://www.umt.edu/biology/more http://www.umt.edu/biology/bees ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 23:03:51 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gordon Scott Subject: Re: Another Oak Has Fallen In-Reply-To: <922025333.2017149.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII It's strange how sad one can feel about the loss of someone you've never actually met. I feel I've known Andy a long time and I have just lost a close, dear friend. Goodnight Andy. Sleep well. G. -- Gordon Scott gordon@apis.demon.co.uk gordon@multitone.co.uk (work) Gordon's Apis Home Page Beekeeper; Kendo 3rd Dan, retd :-(; Sometime sailor. Hampshire, England. Linux -- Because I like to *get* there today. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 16:37:28 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: RFC822 error: Incorrect or incomplete address field found and ignored. From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Subject: Re: QUEEN REARING MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello: If you have not already read the following texts ,you may wish to do so Breeding Super Bees, Steve Taber ,pub. The AI Root Co. 1987 Queen Rearing and Bee Breeding ,HH Laidlaw and RE Page, Jr., pub. WICWAS Press 1997 ISBN 1-878075-08-X The Ontario Ministry of Ag. and Food has a publication Queen Bee Rearing (pub. 74) 1989 ISBN 0-7729-6130-1, that may be of interest. Contact me if you have difficulty obtaining this one. Your state Ag. dept. may have a similar booklet. Also, contact your local beekeepers' group, someone there may be able to help you with the details you need. Some things with beekeeping are best learnt "hands on". Best wishes, Keith ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 16:59:59 -0500 Reply-To: String & Linda Monteith Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: String & Linda Monteith Subject: Re: Drown-proof watering method Comments: To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I love the idea of the sponges. Wouldn't an automatic dog waterer work? Even one of the ones that uses an inverted 2 liter bottle would keep a LOT of bees watered for a long time! My concern is: Won't bacteria grow in the sponge? Linda in Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:41:06 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Donald James Tupper Subject: Re: bee blower MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I found the ECHO Model # PB 2100 for about $130.00. This blower works great, is light weight and has a two stroke motor. This makes blowing bees out of supers quick and easy. Donny Tupper Red Top Aparies ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 00:50:35 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Death of Andy Nachbaur Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All Sadly, we have lost another venerable beekeeper. I enjoyed as did all of my colleagues, the great posts submitted by the Old Drone. I often pictured Andy as a wise old gentleman with many many answers to beekeeping, sitting like the Oracle of ancient times, dispensing his knowledge to travellers who happened to come along. I was privileged to be one of those travellers. Aaron Morris wrote to me recently, 'it is nice to meet the faces behind the posts'. Sadly, this option is no longer available to those like myself who never met Andy. We will nonetheless carry a lovely mental picture of Andy based on what he wrote. No more will we see his signature 'Ttul The Old Drone'. Thank you good friend for sharing so much with us. Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland Hobbyist beekeeper e mail cssl@iol.ie Tel + 353 1 289 5269 Fax + 353 1 289 9940 Latitude 53 Degrees 16' North Longitude 6 Degrees 9' West of Greenwich ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 18:55:26 -0600 Reply-To: lkrengel@mc.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Larry Krengel Subject: Re: bee blower MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Becky - I bought a leaf blower (gas powered) at the Sears outlet store for about $45. It is not as small as what you describe, but I rigged a section of vacuum hose on to it so I need not carry it. I have used this each of the last two falls to clear supers. It works quite well and much better than bee escapes or Bee-Go. Larry Krengel Marengo, IL USA > Has anyone tried to use the Black and Decker battery powered broom (looks > like a mini leaf blower) for blowing bees off the frames? ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 18:46:38 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dave Pehling Subject: Re: honey in homebrew Comments: To: AL In-Reply-To: <199903221328.FAA27393@coopext.cahe.wsu.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Fri, 19 Mar 1999, AL wrote: > As I experiment with various homebrew recipes I wonder what effect > adding a little honey for might have. The corn sugar, malt extract and > other ingredients provide the fermentables, so the honey is begin > considered from the flavoring aspect. ============= Hi Al & all, I've used honey in place of corn sugar (100 percent) and come out with a wonderful brew! cheers, Dave Pehling ============================================ | W.S.U. COOPERATIVE EXTENSION-SNOHOMISH CO. | | 600 128TH ST. S.E. | | EVERETT, WA. 98208 U.S.A. | | PHONE - (425)338-2400 | | FAX - (425)338-3994 | | EMAIL pehling@wsu.edu | ============================================ ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:18:06 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Donald Aitken Subject: Re: Wax melter Comments: To: "M.Berzonis" In-Reply-To: <199903191241.FAA310170@fn1.freenet.edmonton.ab.ca> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Fri, 19 Mar 1999, M.Berzonis wrote: ... find out average melting cycle length for 20 frame... I have a steam chest which has a 1200 watt steam generator externally and a 1500 Watt water heater in its base. It melts out 30 frames in about 15 minutes. It is made of stainless steel with 1" styrofoam insulation on the exterior. Best regards, Donald Aitken Edmonton Alberta Canada ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:22:40 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jeff Holbrook Subject: Re: Another Oak Has Fallen MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All, I was reading my e-mail last week, on the 17th to be precise, when I said to my wife: Andy (Nachbaur) has not posted or responded to anything in quite a while. Today, upon returning home from a weekend of birding I discovered the reason for Andy's absence. Wow! Our loss. Heavens gain. I'm sure he would have a comment about that one! I too have an Andy folder in my e-mail program. I also have notes and replies from Andy scattered throughout my bee subfolders. I just finished re-reading all that I could locate. I consider myself fortunate that I was able to see the "Old Drone" in action. That I was able to participate in threads in which he was involved was an honor. He was straight and to the point. Andy minced no words. I tended to agree with him more often than not. And yes, his posts were always read first. I will miss him. I may not have been in the woods when that oak fell, I didn't hear it fall but can see and feel the void that remains. That is all that I can add as others have done better at describing our loss than l could. Thanks for all of your insight, wit etc. You have helped me better understand the bees. "Now Andy did you hear about this one....." _ _ (o!o) Jeff Holbrook ((___)) holbrook@northnet.org ---"-"--- Canton, NY ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:12:18 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Landrith Subject: Re: honey in homebrew Comments: To: lithar@midwest.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Honey is a great adjunct to beer. Very light honey gives a dry champagne character that is truly profound. It seriously increases fermentation time, however. I have a batch of 50% Amber Malt 50% honey dry hopped with Saaz that has been aging for 2.5 years and should be perfect for new years. Try Papazian's "The Joy of Homebrewing" for more info. -K ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 03:36:13 -0600 Reply-To: ktate@geocities.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Kathy Tate Subject: honey vs milk pricing MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > and still more money in there pocket. Humm...more money in my pocket? Strange...I haven't seen it! As a dairy farmer that keeps bees to help support our dairy "habit", I need to share that dairy farmers are not "on top of the game". The dairy industry (at least the farm end of it) is a joke. Government regulation and an outdated pricing structure have nearly destroyed the family dairy farm. The government forces us to "participate" in an advertising promotion program that takes a huge chunk of our checks and then uses the funds in whatever way they see fit. Our checks for the month of February were half of what they were in January. Everytime you pay $3.50 for a gallon of skim milk in your local grocery, the dairyman gets less than 50 cents for that same gallon at the farm. We're penalized for fat content, water content, protein content, bacteria counts, to name a few. Drop one "plop" of manure on the road, and the EPA beats you home with a citation and a hefty fine (some are $10,000 per day). Heaven forbid they find a bee leg in it!!! Folks, that's surely not what honey producers want! I don't have a solution but modeling the honey industry after the dairy industry is not a good moooove! > ...but we can get there, ...Just like the Dairy Farmers. Is that referencing "out of business"? Wishing I had the answer... Kathy Tate ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 00:50:37 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Queen Rearing Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All Robert Landolfi wrote asking for information on the above subject. There is an absolutely vast number of approaches to Queen Rearing. I recently came across what I believe to be an elegant method called 'The Hopkins System'. It dates from 1911 and was devised by a Mr I Hopkins from New Zealand. It consists of placing a frame of drawn comb which has NOT been used for brood rearing, into the broodnest of the hive from which you wish to breed. Remove the frame after four days, when it should be well filled with eggs and just hatching larvae. Then select one side as the better side and destroy the eggs on the other side. Then, starting at the top of the frame on the better side, destroy two rows of eggs and leave the next row. Then destroy the next two rows and leave the next row. Continue until you reach the end of the frame. Now start at the first column of cells (the vertical 'rows'), and do the same, destroy two columns and leave the next one etc. You will now end up with eggs over all or most of the surface of the comb with about 12mm of empty space all around each of them. This prepared surface is laid flatwise with cells facing down over the brood nest of a queenless colony which you have designated as a cell builder. Some kind of support is necessary to hold the comb far enough above the frame to leave plenty of room for drawing large queen cells. A shallow super with grooves cut in the end pieces to within 25mm of the bottom is a solution to this. If all conditions are favourable you will secure a maximum number of cells. It should be borne in mind that if too many queen cells are left to be nurtured, that the resources of the cell building colony may be over taxed, and you may end up with a great many mediocre queens. So I daresay the message is do not go for too many cells. When the cells are ripe, a couple of days before emergence, they can be removed with a very slight effort with minimum or no damage, and placed in mating nucs or queenless colonies etc. in the normal way. I got a full write up on this system from Mr G W Hayes Jr, Branch Manager, Dadant and Sons Inc., Wayland, Michigan, USA. In my opinion, and this is elaborated on in the write up, the Hopkins System offers many advantages to a beginner like myself, not the least of which are that it is not necessary to find the breeder queen, or get involved with tricky grafting procedures, or extra paraphernalia. I am going to try it out this year. Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland Hobbyist beekeeper e mail cssl@iol.ie Tel + 353 1 289 5269 Fax + 353 1 289 9940 Latitude 53 Degrees 16' North Longitude 6 Degrees 9' West of Greenwich ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:42:39 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Steve Davis Subject: Re: First Swarm: That makes it "officially" spring! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dave, I would think if a swarn had varroa and it was treated that they would make a hive as good as any. Is there a point of no return, even for a swarm? Steve > > All the wild swarms I have ever gotten have eventually succumbed to varroa, > though > >one that I thought showed promise, was lost due to a drone layer. That one > >lived a year. Another which lived a year and a half, and was extremely > >productive during its first year, broke down in late spring to a heavy varroa > >infestation. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 14:30:28 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Midnitebee Subject: new treatment? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings.. This is a newspaper clipping form the USA Today: Carol Fassbinder of Valley Community High School in Elgin,Iowa won the $20,000 fourth place scholarship for a biology project that uncovered a NEW control for Varroa jacobsoni. She has begun the process of obtaining a patent for her parasite control. Carol plans to attend Iowa State University. $20,000 dollars!! and planning for a patent?...and a high school student to boot!..who is the person...surely, I am not the only person to read this article. Herb Holly-B Apiary P.O.Box 26 Wells,Maine 04090-0026 http://www.cybertours.com/~midnitebee "An educated consumer is YOUR best customer" ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:53:10 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Murray McGregor Subject: Re: White winged bees In-Reply-To: <921605971.20591.0@uacsc2.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In article <921605971.20591.0@uacsc2.albany.edu>, Christopher Slade writes >As today was about our first warmish day I looked briefly through my hives to >see how they had got through the winter. In some of them I saw a few bees >whose wings looked as if the ends had been painted white. We see this effect quite often. In our case it is nothing sinister, just an adhesion of their winter food to their wings, usually near the tips, which can soon enough be cleaned up. It usually happens around the time the winter cluster begins to open up and is more prevalent in smaller colonies than large ones. If you feed fondant this almost certainly the cause, but we do see it occasionally in non fondant colonies. If your situation does not fit this model by all means have them checked, but there are many funny things out there which are usually benign. -- Murray McGregor ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:17:05 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Waskey, Dick" Subject: Re: Here is the article MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here is the article and I might comment that per the photo, Carol is a very fetching young woman... Carol Anne Fassbinder, 17, of 1003 200th St., Elgin, discovered a new parasite control for honeybees for her Intel Science Talent Search biology project. Her family operates honeybee colonies in northeast Iowa, and Varroa jacobsoni, a parasitic mite, is crippling beekeeping in the state. In 1988, there were 200,000 honeybee colonies in Iowa. There are now fewer than 40,000. What's more, the mite is developing resistance to fluvalinate, the only approved chemical control. Carol investigated monoterpenoids-compounds found in many plant oils-as alternatives. She found that, of the 15 natural and synthetic monoterpenoids she investigated, perillyl acetate provided the most honeybee protection. The Iowa State Research Foundation has now recognized the compound as an intellectual property, clearing the way for patent application. First in her class at Valley Community High School, Carol is student council president, plays bassoon, sings, and manages the cross country and track teams. Carol's outside interests include her small beeswax candle business. The daughter of Robert and Kathryn Fassbinder, she plans to enter Iowa State University to study entomology. Dick Wm. Waskey Email: Dwaskey@andersencorp.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:42:40 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: bee blower Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/99 7:07:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, meldon@SHOREHAM.NET writes: > I found the ECHO Model # PB 2100 for about $130.00. This blower works > great, is light weight and has a two stroke motor. This makes blowing bees > out of supers quick and easy. I keep a small generator on the bee truck all the time. Then I can use a small electric bee blower, which has plenty of power. This puts the noise of the engine a little farther away, and I don't have to put up with the annoying stink of the repellant either. I've always got a couple hives (nucs) around the honey house. As I unload the truck, if I notice a super still has quite a few bees in it. I blow them out, right in front of the honey house bees. I can also use an electric string trimmer, power saw, drill, and other tools. When my truck battery was tired and the motor wouldn't turn over, I put the charger on it for a few minutes, started up, and got out. What I need is a good waterproof tool box. The space behind the seat is not enough! Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html The Pollination Home Page: http://www.pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:29:40 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: First Swarm: That makes it "officially" spring! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/23/99 7:17:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, pkc01155@ALPHA.WVUP.WVNET.EDU writes: > I would think if a swarn had varroa and it was treated that they would make a > hive > as good as any. Is there a point of no return, even for a swarm? Yes, it would. I didn't explain my reasoning for not treating swarms that I think occurred from "wild" bees. Since these bees have survived, as best as I can determine, for several years without treatment for varroa, they may have some resistance, and that would be a valuable trait to breed from. Jack Griffes (Honeybee Improvement Program) maintains that resistance will only be developed by disciplined breeding, and pooh-poohs, the idea that resistance will be found in the wild. I note that plant breeders are searching out and saving every wild plant that they can, and preserving them in genetic repositories. I applaud Jack's program, but that doesn't stop me from saving swarms, in the off-chance that the mechanism of resistance may already exist in the wild somewhere. It's my own small contribution to the effort to bring back our honeybees. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html The Pollination Home Page: http://www.pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 01:36:54 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Garry Libby Subject: Re: new treatment? In-Reply-To: <035981510211739CPIMSSMTPI04@email.msn.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Herb, There is an article about 17 year old Carol Fassbinder in the March American Bee Journal "Her discovery uses compounds from the perilla plant". "Perillyl acetate killed the mite very quickly, very quickly and it's not toxic," Fassbinder said." Her Father is an Iowa commercial Beekeeper. Garry Libby Boston, USA LibBEE@msn.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:28:56 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: smharris Subject: A fallen Bee tree MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Andy, May your hive tool stay eternally sharp and your frames grow infinatly fat. You will be missed by me and other California beekeepers. PS.................I hear ther is no burr comb in heaven ;-} -- Mason Harris, MA (\ SMCOE Educational Audiologist -{ ||| 8- smharris@ed.co.sanmateo.ca.us (/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 11:46:05 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Musashi Subject: on Andy's passing I wouldn't feel right if I didn't "weigh in" and publicly state my feelings about Andy's passing. He was one of my beekeeping mentors who answered questions and encouraged me, a retired beekeeper named Andy Nachbaur (a.k.a. the OLd Drone), from Los Banos, California. He left the world a better place for having passed through it. I feel a great loss at his passing and will miss his wit, wisdom, warmth, and encouragement. He was one of those "kindred spirits" that you like a lot, even though you have never had the opportunity to meet them personally. I had hoped to meet him some day, but never had the chance before he died. I did send him some personal email over the past year or so telling him how much I appreciated his posts and asking him some specific questions, which he graciously answered. I am a better beekeeper and a better person because of him, even though he may not have known it. I miss you, Andy, and look forward to finally meeting you when I pass on where you have gone before. ttul Andy, and thanks for everything. Layne Westover College Station, Texas, U.S.A. p.s. I particularly enjoyed the thought-provoking we he misspelled words in ways that were humorous but the meaning was clear. What a talent! He always kept me guessing as to whether it was intentional or a mistake, but it was always enjoyable. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 14:03:45 -0800 Reply-To: ryarnell@orednet.org Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Richard Yarnell Subject: Re: new treatment? The "contest" used to be sponsored by Westinghouse. Now, Intel, I believe. It's a national competition and very legit. I'm sure a web search will provide more details on the control. Perhaps the patent office or a link provided by USA today. >Carol Fassbinder of Valley Community High School in Elgin,Iowa won the >$20,000 fourth place scholarship for a biology project that uncovered a NEW >control for Varroa jacobsoni. -- ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:43:46 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Reimund Schuberth" Subject: Re: Unknown Bee product MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable -----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht----- Von: Gauthier Buddy J An: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Datum: Montag, 22. M=E4rz 1999 15:20 Betreff: Unknown Bee product Hello Mr. Gauthier, it's tea for honey-bees. It can be used as an additive for sugar/water mixtures being used in spring for better development of the hives. Alternatively it can be used as an additive for water in spring when bees for the same reason. I personally never used these products and I doubt whether they will brin= g any success. According to my experiences it's a matter of ancient times. Pollen and blooming flowers will be the best thing for hive development. Sincerely Reimund **************************************** Beekeeper in Germany (Bavaria) Queen Rearing of Carniolan Bees Insemination Laboratory **************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:12:50 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Reimund Schuberth" Subject: Re: Wire Mesh Bottom Boards MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable -----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht----- Von: Ernest Gregoire An: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Datum: Montag, 22. M=E4rz 1999 19:45 Betreff: Wire Mesh Bottom Boards Hello Ernest, WMBB are very often used here in Germany since many years. I have those boards in more than 90 % of my hives. But it's no instrument for fightin= g varroa, just for controlling the number of varroa in my hives before and during medicamentation period. The hives are used with these WMBB during all seasons. >What size mesh to use? Usually size mesh is about 4 mm. Varroa mites have a size of less than 2 = mm. So bees cannot pass through the mesh boards. Cooling the hive doesn't nee= d passing because ventilation of the bees works quite well through the WMBB= if necessary at all. By the way I prefer WMBB made of plastic material (unexpensive) or stainl= ess steel (very durable). Sincerely Reimund **************************************** Beekeeper in Germany (Bavaria) Queen Rearing of Carniolan Bees Insemination Laboratory **************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:05:32 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Blane White Subject: Re: Availability of pollen in early spring -Reply Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Hi everyone, Here in east central MN the silver maples are just starting to bloom - just a few blooms with anthers extended but with warmer weather in the forcast the bees should be bringing in pollen and nectar by the weekend. The pollen from silver maple is greenish yellow and around here is usually about the first available. There is much early bloom that non-beekeepers are unaware of. blane ************************************* Blane White MN Dept of Agriculture St Paul, MN blane.white@state.mn.us ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 07:30:50 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Organization: The Beekeepers Subject: Honeybee Improvement Program MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Subject: Honeybee Improvement Program From: griffes@my-dejanews.com Date: 1999/03/22 Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping Honeybee Improvement Program. . . History: The Honeybee Improvement Program (or HIP) was begun in the spring of 1993. The beekeepers who originally banded together represented many different phases of beekeeping: migratory and pollination beekeepers, honey producers, intermediate size operators, and those interested in queen rearing and bee breeding. We came from a variety of backgrounds. But we had one purpose - to find resistance to the varroa mite. Protocol: Over the years our protocol for selecting breeding stock has been simplified: At the end of our regular production year the beekeeper will not treat his best producers for mites in any way. The queen will be marked and the hive will be marked also. One of two options will be followed: 1) Upon identification of the best colonies he will take them to a special yard, a HIP yard OR 2) the next spring he will take only those untreated hives that wintered well and move them to a special yard, a HIP yard. This special HIP yard will have only untreated hives being tested for HIP. This insures inoculation with varroa mites. Each cooperator tests the number of hives that he is comfortable with. This is a real life test. Our Definition of Resistance: The test yard hives remain untreated for two years. The varroa mite is vigorous and reproduces readily during the summer. We feel it is significant when a hive is not treated for two years and still survives and prospers. We think these two year untreated thriving survivors (UTS) must have some apparent tolerance for varroa mites. Breeders: These two year UTS hives are then used as breeders. HIP will cage the queens and graft from the breeders. In return, the cooperator will be assured that at least 50% of his cell order will be from his own queen, his contribution to HIP. The cooperator's cell order may include as many as three different stocks, with color-coded cell cups. All stocks are blind-tested, only HIP knowing the actual stock. At year's end, the cooperator will report on his HIP yard and his experiences with the different blind tested stocks used in his operation. HIP benefits us all. Everyone gambles a little, so no one has to gamble a lot. HIP Cooperators - Jim Conor, The Kleins, John Hettinga, Chuck Keiser, Tom Nebel, Rod McCarrick, Jim Meloy, Scott Barnes, Phil Tanner, Kirk Webster, Steve Cantu, Gary Veale, Jack Griffes - We invite you to join us. For HIP Queen Cells contact: Gary Veale (616) 868-7255 (Freeport, MI) vealehaven AT earthlink dot net Jack Griffes (517) 467-2818 (Onsted, MI) jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com Steve Cantu (941) 735-1679 barn or (941)735-8671 hm (FL) For mated Summer Queens: Kirk Webster (802) 758-2501 (VT) A few common questions about HIP Q. Will the queens I get mated from HIP cells survive untreated like the breeders they came from? A. Some will but at this point in the effort most unfortunately will not - we advise PROPERLY TIMED treatment for Varroa mites in the bulk of every operation to keep losses down. HIP Cooperators leave only a hand chosen few "best of the best" untreated for 2 years for complete HIP testing. Q. How many will survive untreated now? A. Variables abound and we cannot predict results in our own test yards let alone in your operation. One HIP Cooperator recently reported a winter with under 10% loss in his treated stock (bulk of operation), 30% loss in his first year untreated yard (with zero loss in the actual HIP colonies there), and 70% loss in his HIP 2 year UTS yard. Does that mean you will experience the same? No - your management and locations will differ. Will he even experience the same next year? Probably not - this is real live beekeeping remember. Q. Has the stock actually been improved? A. While it is hard to actually quantify "improvement" we can tell you that initially simply leaving colonies untreated over one winter resulted commonly in 80% losses - now we have to leave the hand selected test colonies untreated for two winters to select HIP breeders. Going from a one year untreated test to a two year untreated test does not make the test just twice as hard - the difficulty of passing the test is raised exponentially via adding that second year and we don't use those that "just survived" we use the 2 yr. Untreated Thriving Survivors (UTS) as HIP breeders. Q. Why does your HIP test leave part of your stock untreated for two years when you know a lot will die that way? A. Essentially we are intentionally working at speeding up Nature's process of breeding bee stock that can survive and thrive IN THE NORTH without human aid. Nature would eventually solve the problem IF we beekeepers could just let all the susceptible stock die and the survivors work it out over several decades. Of course Nature sometimes solves these problems with extinction of a now unfit species - that being objectionable due to our reliance on honeybee pollination for much of our own food supply (about 1/3) we figure it is wiser to "patiently over time" selectively breed toward what we want to have in the future. We each sacrifice a small part of our stock each year to insure that HIP will have 2 yr. UTS breeders each year - your own test yard may get wiped out one year - two years later it may have that years best HIP breeder found in it - but via community effort HIP will find 2 yr. UTS breeders to graft from every year - we all gamble a little, so no one has to gamble a lot. Q. Isn't it time you joined HIP and started to help our community effort out? A. (fill in the blank) Jack Griffes jack_griffes AT hotmail dot com Country Jack's Honeybee Farm Onsted, MI USA http://members.tripod.com/~Griffes/ ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 07:26:13 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Gauthier Buddy J Subject: FW: Translation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain -----Original Message----- To all who were curious. . . . . . From: Urs Schaufelbuhl [SMTP:urschau@mars.ark.com] Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 4:23 PM To: Gauthier Buddy J Subject: Re: Translation It is an additive( like a multi vitamin) to the sugar syrup that is supposedly making your bees healthier, stronger, working harder, lay more eggs, fly faster( take your pick). A lot of German bee keepers swear by it. I assume that it is in liquid form so just add the recommended quantities to syrup Urs Schaufelbuehl have a BEEutiful day ;-) urschau@mars.ark.com http://mars.ark.com/~urschau/ ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 09:12:09 -0500 Reply-To: String & Linda Monteith Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: String & Linda Monteith Subject: Re: First Swarm: That makes it "officially" spring! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Yes, it would. I didn't explain my reasoning for not treating swarms that I >think occurred from "wild" bees. Since these bees have survived, as best as I >can determine, for several years without treatment for varroa, they may have >some resistance, and that would be a valuable trait to breed from. I applaud your efforts, but I question how you know this is truly a "wild" swarm and not one that previously left your beeyard, or a neighboring one? ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 07:55:09 -0700 Reply-To: fltdeck1@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Matthew Subject: Re: Do mite resistant bees exist? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit After reviewing the subject forwarded by Dick Allen regarding HIP (Honeybee Improved Program) bees, I'm wondering if anyone knows how bees can live through mites via genetics? Do they have a cleanliness trait which clues them into picking out and disposing of infested larvae? Does excessive propolis (New World Carniolans for example) make it harder for mites to propagate? What other possibilities are there for bees keeping mites at bay without human intervention? While each summer I'm investing a great deal of time pulling out surviving feral hives, I'm becoming increasingly at-odds with the logic on why these bees are still alive. How much am I investing in 'chance'? How much are you? Matthew Westall - Castle Rock, CO PS - I medicate all feral bees once hived. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 15:48:50 +0100 Reply-To: pln@wanadoo.fr Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jean-Pierre LE PABIC Subject: Re: Wire Mesh Bottom Boards MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable At least two experiments about bottom boards letting the varroas drop thr= ough have been made in France. The first one uses a 3 mm (or 1/8 inch) hardware cloth and was reported i= n July-August issue of =93L=92Abeille de France et l=92apiculteur=94. In = the very beginning, there was a lot of bees with withered wings but later on everything became okay again. Besides, this hive witho= ut any treatment is told to give more honey than the others. The other experiment is the one I personally carry out with the bottom bo= ard which have been designed by Mr. Legris. Instead of hardware cloth, yo= u have 34 mm diameter tubes under each frame. The space between the tubes is 3,5 mm which is large enough to eliminate wast= es as well as varroa mites. Bees cannot however go through. (for more det= ails and pictures : www.apiservices.com/plateau-anti-varroas/). The immediate advantages are to save money (no more chemicals to buy) and= to save time (no more treatment to apply, bottom boards always clean). I prefer the bottom board with tubes because isolation against cold is go= od and I personally think that varroas elimination is better through larg= er holes. Moreover, an industrial production would lead to prices not much higher than ordinary bottom boards. Plastic tubes= are cheap but stainless steel hardware cloth is not. I ordinary count between 50 and 200 varroas mites dropped each week depen= ding on the hive and they are in very good health. Of course, two experiments are not sufficient to tell the problem is away= but these first result should lead other people to try this method and r= eport their own observations. Jean-Pierre LE PABIC RUEIL-MALMAISON (10 km from Paris) FRANCE Ernest Gregoire a =E9crit: > I found time to search the Archives for Wire Mesh Bottom Boards, > WMBB,and thought this would be a good time to challenge the group > to do some research into just how they work in various parts of > the world. > > Letting the Varroa drop through the wire mesh sounds like a good > idea to me. Having been told that this will eliminate up to 15% > of the mites, I am willing to give it a try. > ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 09:52:42 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: First Swarm: That makes it "officially" spring! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 99-03-24 09:13:06 EST, anlin@erinet.com (String & Linda Monteith) wrote: <<....... but I question how you know this is truly a "wild" swarm and not one that previously left your beeyard, or a neighboring one? >> So do I, so do I...... The swarm in question is several miles from any of my bees. I doubt there could be kept bees in this area without my knowledge. I kept bees about an eighth of a mile from here once, but closed that yard about ten years ago. Of course there is a question of how far bees can travel in swarms. My past experience indicates that the first time they pitch is usually very close to the parent. If I search, I can usually find the origin. Time will tell....... Dave Green SC USA The Pollination Home Page http://www.pollinator.com The Pollination Scene http://members.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop on the Internet (honey & beeswax candles) http://members.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 10:42:11 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: Do mite resistant bees exist? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >After reviewing the subject forwarded by Dick Allen regarding HIP >(Honeybee Improved Program) bees, I'm wondering if anyone knows how bees >can live through mites via genetics? That would be hard to say. Since a genetic trait is introduced through random mutation it ends up being a matter of survival to find out what will work. It could range from a habit of nurse bees cleaning up the mites or the larva (or adult bees) becoming toxic to the mite. The other concern is that the trait could work against the management of the hive. For example the abscounding or swarming traits, which leave mites behind on the brood, could become a survival advantage. If there is a gene that would promote resistance then we have to find it. If it does not exist then we have to wait it out by using management techniques that keep the hives going. The strange thing about waiting for a trait is that what could have been a neutral or mildly harmful mutation in the past (that was lost due to breeding) could become a positive trait with the new form of pressure the mite represents. Treating a captured wild swarm for varroa may be a good idea. Since the swarm has been stressed by the move they could go under even if they had some resistance to the mite. Once established you could then stop treatments and see what happens. When I split a hive that has no evidence of varroa I treat both the old hive and the new split (which I allow to raise its own queen) so that the stress I have placed on the two colonies does not allow the mites an "unnatural" gain. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 17:21:26 -0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ken Hoare Subject: Condensation in the hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A short while ago Lloyd Spear wrote of four ways to reduce condensation in the hive, an undoubted killer of honey bee colonies in the UK with its damp (soggy this year) and relatively warm winters. I think he suggested drilling ventilation holes in the hive wall, propping up the outer cover, adding ventilation slots to the inner cover and use of fibre board to vent moisture to the exterior. May I suggest yet another, much easier - remove the inner cover, crown board as they are called in the UK, completely during the winter months. Maybe climatic variations will come into play here but with our winters this is a method I have found totally satisfactory, remove entrance block, full width mouseguard on, crown board off and a weatherproof ventilated roof fitted. Whereas previously I would find mouldy combs in spring, especially the flank one's, no such problems for the past 15 or so years. A dryer environment also limits outbreaks of Nosema. I should add the crown boards are returned about late January, early February (26 January this year) when the weather indicates to me that the queen might have returned into lay, just gives them a little more chance to conserve heat and any moisture that collects on the underside at that time will be used to reconstitute / dilute stores. Open mesh floors have previously been discussed, again very recently, and I think the general opinion was they could benefit the colony, same principal with no crown board - plenty of ventilation. As Lloyd stated, "Dry cold does not hurt bees, condensation kills them". Ken Hoare Shropshire, UK ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:38:38 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Van Roekel Subject: Re: new treatment? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Carol is a very bright daughter of a beekeeper who has been doing science projects concerning beekeeping for the last 2 years or so. She has presented her work at the annual Iowa Honey Producers meeting for the last two or three years. One project was on winterizing colonies using insulation filled plastic "bags". ( Results were something like 100% survival vs substantial losses, I don't remember the exact figures, but it seems like it was 60-70% survival on the control) Her recent work with varroa is, I believe, using plant extracts for control. The Iowa Honey Producers have donated money to an entomologist at Iowa State University to support Carol's work in this area. It is my understanding that she will be working with him to confirm her findings, apply for patents etc. I would guess that she will again be at our annual meeting in late October/early November. I would be happy to supply details as they become available to interested individuals. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 19:28:06 -0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Harry Goudie Subject: Re: yellow jasmine MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -----Original Message----- From: Madeleine Pym To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Date: 19 March 1999 15:26 Subject: Re: yellow jasmine >. My experience is that bees seem to leave both of them alone over >here, as with the daffodil which I rarely see a bee on. > I saw a number of bees on the first few daffodils today. Here in Northern Scotland the daffodils are not yet properly in flower but the few hardy ones which have flowered early are being well attended by bees. I think this is because there are no other plants in flower at the moment and I believe the bees actually eat there way into unopened flowers. Temperature may also play a part (although in reverse in the case of the daffodil). We have a lot of foxgloves here in the summer and the bees totally ignore them except for one plant which seeded itself in my greenhouse. I left the door open one day and discovered a couple of dozen bees working on this plant. The next day with the door closed the bees found there way in and out though the roof light. I can only conclude that the foxglove in the greenhouse had produced nectar while those outside did not. Harry ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 13:07:52 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Urs Schaufelbuehl Subject: Re: Bee Tea MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is an translated excerpt from "Der Schweizerische Bienenvater" 1985 by Casaulta, Krieg und Spiess; ISBN 3-7941-2589-4, Page 406, {According to < Sklenar> Bee Tea is an infusion of Zitronenmelisse (Melissa officinalis), weisse Schafgarbe (Achillea millefolium), Wermut (Artemisia absinthii), Kamille (Matricaria chamonilla), und Poleiminze (Mentha pulegium). An infusion of 10 gram of each herb is mixed with 24 liters of sugar syrup.} In Europe some bee keepers use this additive. Urs Schaufelbuehl have a BEEutiful day ;-) urschau@mars.ark.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 16:14:42 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Kenn Tuckey Subject: Beeswax as grafting wax Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I have searched the archives and have found a lot of recipes that relate to using beeswax for making creams and furniture polish but no reference to using beeswax to make grafting wax for use on trees. Can anyone help or point me in the correct direction? Kenn Tuckey Provincial Apiculturist, Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural Development 17507 - Fort Road, R.R. #6, Edmonton, AB T5B 4K3 Phone 780-415-2314 Fax: 780-422-6096 Mailto:kenn.tuckey@agric.gov.ab.ca ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 18:23:19 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Service for Andy Nachbaur MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT I have been trying to compose a fitting tribute to Andy since I heard the news and I find I am at a loss for words. I too never met the man other than on the internet and I'm honored to have had the privilege. It was apparent that Andy was failing when he posted to the list that he was "fighting with the 4 horseman and am not good for long even at the keyboard". What a way he had with words! Andy's absence from his keyboard was becoming obvious to many and the longer he was silent the more I feared for the worst. When the sad news finally came it was posted from Andy's own account. I saw the mail header and my spirits jumped as I thought he must be doing better as he's back at his computer again! Then when I read the contents saying he had passed on I thought Andy's pulling our leg, posting his own obituary ala Tom Sawyer. What a jokester! It took a moment before the reality of the situation hit home. I am deeply saddened. I have been in touch with one of Andy's friends, a self described computer nerd who learned computers with Andy. One of the things that always impressed me about Andy was that a man of his years was so current with computer technology. His Wild Bees Bulletin Board was WAY ahead of its day and when the technology caught up with and passed his BBS, Andy jumped right into the thick of it to update his skills to take advantage of the world wide web. I do not know for sure, but I believe he was self taught. This friend of Andy's is Joanne Hoefer, owner of the bookstore where Andy told us we could find _50_Years_Among_the_Bees_ (it's not there anymore ;). Joanne has been helping with the arrangements. Some of what she has written to me follows. > I am emailing all the bee folks I know to get the word out so if you > would pass it on for me it would help. > > Andy died of pneumonia caused by melanoma that had just run rampant > in the past three weeks. It happened so fast it was a shock to us > all. > > Mrs. Brandi of the Bee Brandi's of Los Banos did a hero's job of > helping him to stay at home and get in-house care. Both she and I > were with him the last day as well as a step-son. I only knew him > about 5 years or so - we were computer nerds together and we shared > the various online services between us and of course he did a lot of > computer consulting out of my store and loved to sit and drink coffee > and chat with everyone, local and out of towners who happened to > stop by. > > Andy really enjoyed each of you and your questions, ideas, and use of > his pages. I have offered to collect together the many tributes that have been posted on BEE-L and sci.agriculture.beekeeping to Andy and send them to Joanne. These will be available for people to read at Andy's memorial service scheduled for Monday. > From: Joanne Hoefer > Subject: Service for ANDY > > Friends are welcome to attend: > Services for Andy Nachbaur will be held Monday March 29, 1999 at > 9:30am at St. Joseph's Church on Center street in Los Banos, Ca. > Center is directly off highway 152. Turn at the 4th street light on > highway 152 (taco bell on corner) and go one block south and turn > right and you are at church. > > Reception after services will be held at the Harrsions - directions > given at church. Andy will be buried in family plot in Arizona at a > later date. I have been extracting Andy's post from the archives to compile as Faith suggested. He sure had a lot to say! In the process I came across perhaps the best tribute to Andy, written by one Anton J. Nachbar, Jr. Availing myself of the always generous "Permission given to copy the document in any form, or to print for any use", I submit it for your consideration. > Date: Wed, 27 Aug 1997 08:14:12 -0700 > From: Andy Nachbar > Subject: Re: comb honey > > At 10:20 AM 8/26/97 -0700, Andy L. Kettlewell wrote: >> Do you know Anton J. Nachbar Jr.? > > Yep, I know him very well. Some say he is just an old opinionated "son > of a bee", which may be true as he has been connected with beekeeping > since 1954. Once he was a commercial beekeeper from Los Banos, > California, he also has had beekeeping operations in Meeker, Colorado, > and Arivaca, Arizona. > > Well known in the beekeeping industry and by those who would regulate > it and state and national legislatures. He was responsible, at times > single handed, for the "beekeeper indemnification program", and > deregulation of beekeeping in California and other states. He has > proven that a few beekeepers can effect change in the USA if armed > with the weapons of truth and no money. He is well know for his > support of beekeeping research and is one of the few beekeepers who > does support both basic and applied beekeeping research believe it or not. > > He is not a power broker in beekeeping politics and over the years has > earned a reputation for honesty and straight talking and is respected > for his original ideas. He takes great pride on the fact that he as a > beekeeper with nothing to sell other beekeepers other then ideas and > experience and has been honored as a speaker at state and national > beekeeping meeting many times if only to balance out the programs > which are many times overloaded with those outside the "hands on" > beekeeping industry. > > Some say he is funny, he also has made grown men cry, and some have > made a show of walking out when he speaks. He is often quoted by > others... > > What else do you want to know. Personally I know he is OK, he takes > St. John's Wart pills to keep it together. Is divorced but his X > continues to be his friend. Several of the high school kids that > worked for him are now large successful commercial beekeeper in > California and North Dakota. One of them is his next door neighbor. > > In My Humble Opinion > ttul, the OLd Drone > > "I have met him, and he is me" > Anton J. Nachbaur, Jr is the payroll signature for Andy Nachbaur. Submitted with the highest respect and honor, Aaron Morris ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 18:50:54 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ines Kinchen Subject: tax deduction for farmers??? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit We are planning on moving our bees on to different property since we are moving. This new property belongs to a local farmer. Will he get a tax deduction for letting us keep the bees on his land? Thank you for answering this question for me. INES ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 01:08:50 -0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ken Hoare Subject: Wax moths v Moisture MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Fred Chase asks if in my opinion shady locations, and the possible moist conditions would encourage wax moths. I would say no Fred, the moisture would not encourage moths but it does weaken a colony. As has been stated on many occasions in these pages once that occurs wax moth will quickly assume control of the hive. Another encouragement to wax moths over here is when beekeepers place a mesh varroa screen above the normal floor and leave them in situ both summer and winter. The space below the mesh, which is intended to collect dead mites to monitor infestation levels, and to which the bees have no access, also collects wax particles and much other detritus. In this I have seen (not in my hives) literally hundreds of moth larvae. So, in my opinion, these are a 'tool' to assist in detecting levels and should be removed once that has been accomplished. I am not conversant with your climate Fred but imagine Rhode Island to have 'dry very cold' winters compared to the UK's 'wet cold' (not that we have experienced a cold winter for three or four years now). Irrespective of the coldness of your area I would hazard a guess that given plenty of ventilation your colonies will be healthier next year, shade or not. May I extend the thread (I think that is the correct word)? Are colonies better located in partial shade rather than having the full force of the sun shining on them, I would say that they are but how do beekeepers in your sunnier states cope with this problem? Overheating of the hive I believe encourages swarming, requires many hundreds, maybe thousands, of bees to act as the colonies air conditioning system by collecting and evaporating water, and those bees would be better employed foraging for nectar and pollen, and in extreme cases (unlikely in the UK) could lead to melt down of the combs. Ken Hoare Shropshire, UK ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 05:50:22 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: RFC822 error: Incorrect or incomplete address field found and ignored. From: "Keith B. Forsyth" Subject: Re: Beeswax as grafting wax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good morning: >From Super Formulas by Elaine C. White, the following recipe is available Grafting Wax 10 ounces(weight) rosin 2 ounces(weight) beeswax 1 ounce(weight) charcoal powder 1 tablespoon linseed oil >From Beeswax Crafting by Robert Berthold Jr., the following recipe "Beeswax can be used to make grafting wax equal to or better than anything available commercially. Warm and hand knead equal parts of tallow(rendered beef from rendering plants or butcher plants, possibly fast food restaurants) rosin and beeswax." I have not used these. Best wishes, Keith ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 07:46:27 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Mesinger Subject: Re: Wax moths v Moisture In-Reply-To: <199903250408.XAA43872@unix.mail.Virginia.EDU> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" For hives in full sun, why not build a slat rack wirh a 1in brace below to hold it above the top board? It can be built to be as much larger than the hive cover as you wish, just so the hive is shaded for a few hours of the mid day sun. great ventilation in the hive should do the rest. Cordially, John F. Mesinger ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:08:07 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: JIMJACK Has anyone seen plans for a honey extracting house- both inside and outside? Preferably, it would be old-fashioned in design. Size- 16'x24' or thereabouts. This is for a property in New Brunswick, Canada. The house was built in 1854. I should support 2 large colonies. Any ideas for inside or outside would be appreciated. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ To see a World in a Grain of Sand And a Heaven in a Wild Flower ~William Blake~~~~~ Jackalyn Murray Horticulturist 506-648-1889 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:22:10 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Plans for a honey house MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT _The_Hive_and_the_Honey_Bee_ (current edition (1995?) from Dadant Press) has different honey house layouts for operations of different size. Old fashion design? Try an older edition ;) Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee! ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:02:26 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Beeswax as grafting wax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Kenn, What I heard a couple of years ago is not to use grafting wax or sealers on cut tree branches. It seems that letting the wound heal in the air is better than sealing it. Cannot give you the reference because it was some years ago. I have not used wound sealer since and have had no problems with my fruit trees. Keeping the saw or pruner clean is important, so disease does not spread. I would check with a local professional grower for the latest on this. Bill T Bath, ME ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:44:33 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: honey house plans Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I believe Maxant's catalog has plans or layouts for honey houses. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:17:06 -0500 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Organization: ACB Dept., Univ of Michigan Subject: Re: tax deduction for farmers??? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ines Kinchen wrote: > We are planning on moving our bees on to different property since we are > moving. This new property belongs to a local farmer. Will he get a tax > deduction for letting us keep the bees on his land? > Thank you for answering this question for me. I am a beekeeper, not a "regular" farmer, but I keep bees on seven farm properties. I would be amazed if the farmers woulld get a tax deduction for this. I do pay "rent" even though it consists only of a few jars of honey, but really such placement of hives is more of a service and benefit to the farmer/orchardist than to the beekeeper. Why should they expect a tax break in addition? Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:17:01 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Green Subject: Re: Beeswax as grafting wax Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 99-03-25 09:09:28 EST, mister-t@CLINIC.NET (Bill Truesdell) wrote: << What I heard a couple of years ago is not to use grafting wax or sealers on cut tree branches. It seems that letting the wound heal in the air is better than sealing it. >> This is the current thinking on pruning cuts, and wounds to trees. However, for grafting, it is extremely important to not let the graft dry out, or your "take" percentage will really drop. I have used masking tape for whip grafts, and it would dry and become brittle before constricting growth. But it temporarily kept the graft from drying. I would think grafting wax would be even better, though I've never used it. Dave Green SC USA The Pollination Home Page http://www.pollinator.com The Pollination Scene http://members.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop on the Internet (honey & beeswax candles) http://members.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:28:12 -0500 Reply-To: tvf@umich.edu Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Organization: ACB Dept., Univ of Michigan Subject: Sunny vs. shady locations MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I keep bees in both sunny and shady places, from full sun to deep within a wood. I have had excellent harvests from hives in all places. However, from a point of view of beekeeper comfort in mid-summer, nothing beats a shady place. Most of my locations are at least partly shaded, and it is interesting to see the bees take off directly upward through breaks in the tree canopy, like smoke through a chimney. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 15:29:11 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Hive bursting with bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All In this climate, beekeeping does not start in earnest until about the third week in April. Most hives have only a few frames covered with bees, certainly not every frame. Imagine my surprise when I looked at a varroa insert in one of my hives the other day, and found unmistakeable evidence from the tracks of the debris, that every frame was occupied. On taking off the roof, (I did not lift the crown board (inner cover)), I discovered that there were bees everywhere - the crown board was absolutely covered with bees, and they had started building comb and placing honey in it up through one of the feed holes. I spoke to a few beekeepers about it, and most said to leave the hive alone, as any addition of space could cause brood chilling. This put me in a dilemma. If I did nothing, the queen would presumably stop laying, or reduce her laying, and put the thought of swarming into her mind for implementation later on. If I did something I might chill the brood and cause loss of brood and stress on the bees. In the end, I decided to put on a second brood chamber with drawn combs. I was lucky that a nice mild day arrived. I removed two frames of food from the lower brood chamber and inserted two frames of drawn comb beside the brood nest (or where I judged it to be). I then placed the two frames of food in the upper brood chamber. The hive concerned is a British National, so I inerted sheets of insulating material which we call Aerobord into the recessed sides of both chambers, to beef up the insulation. I also cut out a sheet of this material the same size as the crown board (inner cover), with feed holes and placed this on the crown board. After two days I had another quick peek at the hive, by just lifting the roof. I was amazed to see the bees again crowding on the crown board. I would have thought that the bees - other than nurse bees - would have moved into the upper brood chamber, and since this in effect gave them twice as much room there should not be any 'overflow' on to the crown board. What I would like to know, did I do the right thing by adding the extra brood chamber?. And is there anything else I could have done or should do now?. And why should just one hive in eight be absolutely bursting with bees? And a final question should I use the queen as a breeder, all other things being equal?. Thanks for comments Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park, Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland Tel + 353 1 289 5269 ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:33:53 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Tax break for beekeepers, NOT! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT The tax break for beekeepers or their landlords rumor is destined to go down in the annals of great American folklore. It got started by Rush Limbaugh who misinterpreted something he read or heard and then spouted off on his radio show that very generous tax breaks were being doled out to beekeepers or their landlords. I've heard the story and amount vary from $1000 to $100,000 (amazing how these things grow)! It's total bunk, a figment of Rush's imagination, just plain ain't so. But it just won't die. Aaron Morris - thinking there's this bridge in Brooklyn I'd like to sell.... ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:11:49 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jerry J Bromenshenk Subject: Bee List Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, This probably varies from state to state, but there is one way that one might get a tax break, but it only applies to the beekeeper. People who own small acreages may get a tax break if their land is categorized as "agricultural". In some states, keeping livestock may help get the land into this classification. But the landowner has to own the livestock. And this usually applies to small plots of land in the fringe areas between the suburbs and obviously rural lands. Cheers Jerry Jerry J. Bromenshenk jjbmail@selway.umt.edu http://www.umt.edu/biology/bees ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:39:09 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "(Thomas) (Cornick)" Subject: Re: Hive bursting with bees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/25/99 10:33:28 AM EST, cssl@IOL.IE writes: > > What I would like to know, did I do the right thing by adding the extra > brood chamber?. And is there anything else I could have done or should do > now?. One thing you may wish to try is to place a sheet of newspaper with slits just like you were combining hives between the additinal boxes and the ones allready there. The bees will chew through when ready. But if the hive is wall to wall bees as you say then it is either time to super-providing the drugs are off the hives or add another brood chamber. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:08:23 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dave Pehling Subject: Re: Beeswax as grafting wax In-Reply-To: <199903242323.PAA19840@coopext.cahe.wsu.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Wed, 24 Mar 1999, Kenn Tuckey wrote: > I have searched the archives and have found a lot of recipes that relate to > using beeswax for making creams and furniture polish but no reference to using > beeswax to make grafting wax for use on trees. ================================== Somewhere in my files I have a recipe for grafting wax but I can't find it. I usually just use straight melted beeswax, though it hardens a little too brittle, or mix in a little tallow to make it more pliable and sometimes a little pitch to make it stick better. You could probably mix a bit of vegetable shortening with melted wax to get a usable grafting wax but I've not tried that particular mix. As was mentioned, the main purpose of the wax is to keep the graft union from drying out. Cheers, Dave Pehhling ============================================ | W.S.U. COOPERATIVE EXTENSION-SNOHOMISH CO. | | 600 128TH ST. S.E. | | EVERETT, WA. 98208 U.S.A. | | PHONE - (425)338-2400 | | FAX - (425)338-3994 | | EMAIL pehling@wsu.edu | ============================================ ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:45:04 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "J.F. Hensler" Subject: Re: Beeswax as grafting wax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I threw together my own grafting wax last season after giving away the=20 commercial stuff....... It attracted dirt, cats, and was difficult to=20 use. =20 Easy recipe: Melt 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 oz. Beeswax in 1 qt. Mineral oil = stirring gently and constantly. Let cool. That's it. We did both notch and angle grafts, laid on the grafting wax, then = wrapped the join in plastic grafting tape.=20 If you want an exceptional skin balm, just add four or five opened = vitamin E caps as well. The balm works the same way on skin as it does = on grafts... it keeps the moisture in. Hands stay soft. Scion wood = doesn't dry out and die. Christy Hensler Skip & Christy Hensler THE ROCK GARDEN Newport, WA=20 http://www.povn.com/rock/ ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:17:06 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Waskey, Dick" Subject: Re: Hive bursting with bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Here in Minnesota we still have snow and are feeding to stimulate brood rearing. Are you planning on making any divisions? If so this is the hive to do it from. I personally am more concerned with this type of situation leading to a brood chamber filled with honey and no room for egg laying and then the bees swarming. So I make my divide and relieve the congestion a bit. If you are not going to make divides maybe you could give a few of your other hives some extra frames of brood? ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 07:57:28 -1000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Walter Patton Subject: Re: Tax break and ANDY MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Actually there are some tax breaks for land owners here in Hawaii. Beekeeping is part of the livestock commodity group and when bees are placed commercially on vacant land the land real property tax valuation goes down as vacant land is taxed at the highest rate. Vacant land is valued at $2,000.00 per acre and land with livestock production is valued at $250.00 per acre. The tax rate changes also. The tax rate on vacant land is $4.00 per $100.00 and for livestock production land the rate is $8.00 per $100.00. So taxes per acre go from $80.00 per acre to $20.00 per acre. Sooo I guess that Olde Rush speak some truth. So much as been said and I have been at such a loss as ANDY was one of the few who would support me and my ramblings. I like so many others so much enjoyed Andy and kept many files of Andy says. I am sad for my loss and Happy for Andy's new beginning. What an impressive man, I only wish I had been able to shake his hand in person. God Bless you Andy and Happy Trails To You. Sincerely and with Appreciation Walter PATTON with Aloha from Hawaii ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 22:19:43 -0400 Reply-To: eunice.wonnacott@pei.sympatico.ca Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Eunice Wonnacott Subject: Re: Beeswax as grafting wax Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit J.F. Hensler wrote: > > I threw together my own grafting wax last season after giving away the=20 > commercial stuff....... It attracted dirt, cats, and was difficult to=20 > use. > =20 > Easy recipe: Melt 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 oz. Beeswax in 1 qt. Mineral oil = > stirring gently and constantly. Let cool. That's it. > We did both notch and angle grafts, laid on the grafting wax, then = > wrapped the join in plastic grafting tape.=20 > If you want an exceptional skin balm, just add four or five opened = > vitamin E caps as well. The balm works the same way on skin as it does = > on grafts... it keeps the moisture in. Hands stay soft. Scion wood = > doesn't dry out and die. > Christy Hensler > Skip & Christy Hensler > THE ROCK GARDEN > Newport, WA=20 > http://www.povn.com/rock/ In the days when I lived on an apple producing farm, my Father and Grandfather made grafting wax with beeswax, resin and (I think) linseed oil, but I am not sure of the proportions. I can get the recipe from a brother, I think. I know the resin was an integral part of the mix. They melted everything together in a double boiler, old cotton cloth was saturated with the mix, then torn into one inch wide strips and wrapped around the graft. It was flexible, waterproof, and as I remember, adhered nicely to itself , thus easily staying in place. Please respond if you want me to pursue the correct proportions of this recipe. Eunice Wonnacott ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:33:34 -0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Madeleine Pym Subject: Re: Service for Andy Nachbaur Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I too had been gravely concerned for Andy's health and had kept thinking to enquire after him. But it seemed over sentimental at the time, being as how 'I had never even met the guy'. You know that thinking. I sometimes wonder if I will ever learn to express my thanks and my pleasure at knowing someone - at the time - rather than when it is too late. I have only been a member of this list for a year and yet from the very beginning he grabbed my attention and got me thinking. The first post I recall he was spouting about how he could tell you all about keeping bees on pretty near any place, including fault lines where when he went back the next week his nice straight row of hives was all higgledy-piggledy. Then there was something about rattlers under the hives (I think that was him). I just did not know what to make of the man and yet he had caught me already, his use of words had the scenes dancing before my eyes. Of all the members of this group, it has been Andy that took me to places I had never been before. Not that that was all there was to him as you all know. I loved him for his good straight talking, never afraid to express his opinions. And his lack of submission in the face of the 'powers that be' as we call them over here. Maybe someone will be able to pull all those tales of his together one day so others can learn from him, and we can remember him. Madeleine Pym, London ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:14:45 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Blane White Subject: AFB in supers -Reply Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Hi Chris, Well, this news ( tm resistance ) really increases the potential risk from those supers. Research has shown that all the honey from AFB infested colonies contains AFB spores so there are very likely spores in at least some of those supers and they are resistant to tm - the only approved treatment. You really need to take some fairly drastic measures to prevent introducing this disease into your operation. It will be expensive now but if you get the resistant AFB spread in your outfit it will be much more expensive to clean it up later. I will try to list some of the possible options for your consideration. 1. If available in your area you could have the supers disinfected by treatment in a gamma irradiation facility. I am not sure how it costs or if such a facility is located near you but this treatment would kill the spores in the equipment and combs allowing you to use all the equipment without fear of spreading AFB into your outfit. There has been some research on this and it does work well and dose information is available. Contact your state apiarist for information on does etc. 2. If you happen to be in or near a state that has an ethylene oxide (ETO) treatment available. Only a few states have these facilities but again this treatment allows you to kill the AFB spores in the equipment without destroying the combs. As far as I know only Maryland, North Carolina and maybe Maine have such equipment and not sure if they do as EPA is trying to phase out use of ETO. Again contacting your state apairist will be the best source of information for your area. 3. Melt down the combs for beeswax, destroy the frames and scorch the boxes inside ( pretty well ) before using. Rendering the combs to recover the wax and selling it is not a problem since research has shown that AFB spores are either killed or removed by processing the wax. 4. Render the combs and treat the frames and boxes in boiling lye to disinfect the woodenware. This is a messy and somewhat potentially dangerous proceedure but it does kill the spores and they wood can be reused. In my opnion, however, you are better off replacing the frames as that way you have new well constructed frames for your considerable effort otherwise you have used frames for all that time and effort with an unknown useful lifespan. 5. Render the wax and destroy everything else. This is expensive but you will not introduce this disease into your outfit. It is also less labor than any treatment of the woodenware with lye. Many state aparists have email if you send me your state I will email you contact information for your state aparist including phone number, address and email if any. You really should contact and work with your state aparist as they will be interested in helping you ensure this serious disease is cleaned up before it spreads further. Hope this helps. blane ************************************* Blane White MN Dept of Agriculture St Paul, MN blane.white@state.mn.us ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 10:35:32 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: FAITHAB@AOL.COM Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/25/99 8:23:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, jimjack@NB.SYMPATICO.CA writes: << Any ideas for inside or outside would be appreciated. >> In my article "Screened Porch Extracting Room, " (Bee Culture, July l99l) I talk about how a screened porch, enjoyed by thefamily for most of the year, was turned into an extracting room for two days each summer. We planned it that way with an easy-to-clean cement floor with to eye bolts imbeded in it to which we fastened the extractor. A ceiling fan kept us cool, an outlet was where I plugged in my knife and a slight slant to the floor made cleaning up with a hose easy. My how those bees tapped at the screen to get in and lapped up the wash water. But we were cool and bee-free. A lovely addition to the house, it was. Faith Andrews Bedford Ivy VA and Tampa ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 13:10:27 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Pollinator@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Service for Andy Nachbaur Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 99-03-26 12:48:53 EST, mpym@hive.netkonect.co.uk (Madeleine Pym) wrote: << Not that that was all there was to him as you all know. I loved him for his good straight talking, never afraid to express his opinions. And his lack of submission in the face of the 'powers that be' as we call them over here. Maybe someone will be able to pull all those tales of his together one day so others can learn from him, and we can remember him. >> I am already working on that. I have been pulling together everything I can find, to edit and put together a book of "Andyisms." I mentioned this as a possibility to him a couple years ago, and he said, go ahead. Now I wish I had started it sooner. I hope to have it in print within a couple months. Dave Green SC USA The Pollination Home Page http://www.pollinator.com The Pollination Scene http://members.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop on the Internet (honey & beeswax candles) http://members.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 22:42:43 -0500 Reply-To: info@beeworks.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Eyre Subject: Re: Hive bursting with bees Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU On 25 Mar 99, at 15:29, Computer Software Solutions L wrote: > What I would like to know, did I do the right thing by adding the extra > brood chamber?. And is there anything else I could have done or should do > now?. A nice problem to have. I can't even get to some of my hives yet! If that was my problem I would have opened up even further and rather than putting the new box on top, where it becomes a honey super, spread it through the hive by rearranging things. Sealed brood can stand a cooler part of the hive, so it could be pulled up into the top box, and the open brood could be left in the center of the nest. I firmly believe in reducing congestion by opening up the brood area and the big fear regarding chilled brood rarely happens. > > And why should just one hive in eight be absolutely bursting with bees? If someone can answer this one he must have a crystal ball. Possibly a better queen. I've seen queens from the same mother be good, some mediocre, but it's not predictable every time. > And a final question should I use the queen as a breeder, all other things > being equal?. Most certainly. The aim of every breeder should be big hives, slow starters are generally useless, especially for pollination where big, early, is a first requirement. ***************************************** The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada.L3V 6H1. Phone (705)326 7171 Fax (705)325 3461 David Eyre, Owner e-mail http://www.beeworks.com This months special:-New style foundation. **************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 00:57:24 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Debbie Hutchings Subject: Re: Tax break and ANDY Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Everyone! I am also feeling a great loss with the news of Andy. I am greatful to = have been able to read and be a part in Andy's letters and the rest of = the postings of Bee L. I was wondering if anyone on the list, has a = picture of Andy, and if they do, could they scan it or put it somewhere = where we who were not able to meet him might get to see the person = behind those great letters? Thank You Debbie=20 from=20 Westport Ont. Canada where the pussywillows are in bloom. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:31:31 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Honey in home brew & White winged bees Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit A little over a year ago I had about a pint left in a gallon plastic container of natural cider. I added about 3 pounds of honey that was not of marketable quality, and a dose of wine yeast and topped up the container with water. I left the screw top slack and placed the container on a high shelf near the cooker in the kitchen. I bottled it after about 6 months when it had cleared. It is not the best beverage I have tasted but is pleasant and decidedly warming. I shall repeat the experiment, perhaps adding some lemon juice to give it more bite. Thanks for the reassurance, Murray. For the first time I have tried feeding fondant - a plastic bag with about 3 pounds over the feed hole of each hive. I think that is the most lkely reason for the white wings. It is sad that Andy, the Old Drone is gone. He knew he was going. In a posting about a month before he died he mentioned that he was fighting the fourth horseman. For those who may have missed the allusion Andy was referring to verse 8 of Chapter 6 of the Book of Revelation "....I heard the voice of the fourth beast say, Come and see. And I looked, and behold a pale horse: and his name that sat on him was Death.......". No doubt the place he has gone is flowing with milk and honey and my imagination conjures up the image of him berating the Authority for over supplying the market and driving honey prices down by His interventionist policies. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:59:06 -0800 Reply-To: r@jobhaus.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert MacKimmie Subject: Checking on our Brood(selves) ... Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 (NeXT Mail 4.2mach v148) While I am just wrapping up my first year and gained the core of my beekeeping from a working mentor, I value that educational as my primary input, but this list is a close secondary with print and fellow beekeepers and associations following right after. While the evolving glitz and flash of the internet seems to have slowed, the original "Wowee" of basic international connectivity has absolutely transformed the learning curve and effectiveness of my life in the past decade. Core communication provided by a list like this is amazing. While we are checking on prominent voices missing in action recently, where is Garth? r@citybees.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 16:58:35 -0800 Reply-To: beeman@NOSPAMkingston.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Kent Stienburg Subject: Re: Hive bursting with bees Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Computer Software Solutions Ltd wrote: > > Hello All > > I discovered that there were bees everywhere - > the crown board was absolutely covered with bees, and they had started > building comb and placing honey in it up through one of the feed holes. > I spoke to a few beekeepers about it, and most said to leave the hive alone, as any addition of space could cause brood chilling. > Hi Tom, It is my opion that by adding another box on top of a hive "which is as populated as you have said" will not cause chilled brood. The bee make no real attempt at warming the hive, just the brood which they cluster around. By adding the additional box I believe you are correct in assuming that this will give the bees room to expand and will help in preventing swarming. I think the concern your beekeeping acquintances are referring to is when it turns cold quickly after a warm spell. This will cause the bees to cluster into a tighter ball thereby possibly exposing some brood. I always put an extra deep on in the early spring on the most congested hives when I put the Apistan in for mites. I move the extra deeps off usually just after I remove the Apistan and make another hive. I replace it with a honey super. My think was I would rather lose some brood than a swarm. > > Thanks for comments > -- Kent Stienburg Remove NOSPAM to reply. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 14:48:16 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Change in address notification MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Yesterday BEE-L was moved from the IBM mainframe to a Unix server. This happened way ahead of schedule due to personnel changes here at the University at Albany. What was planned for early June happened with no notice yesterday. Our LISTSERV support person starts his new job next week. This person is not me. The most obvious change in this is that the address for BEE-L has changed to: BEE-L@listserv@albany.edu Furthermore, the address for listserv has also changed to: LISTSERV@listserv@albany.edu For the time being both the old and the new addresses should work, but to be safe the sooner users make changes in their address books or names files or whatever your mailer calls them, the better off they will be. I believe "traffic" on the list will go on unabated, but if there appeal to be problems please be patient during this transition. Thanks in advance for your understanding. Sincerely, Aaron Morris ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 20:25:31 -0500 Reply-To: Peter John Keating Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Peter John Keating Subject: Re: bee blower Comments: To: lkrengel@mc.net, BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One should be careful when using the small backpack type blowers as they often send the exhaust gases down the blower tube. Hence the honey becomes contaminated with CO and petrol residues. I purchased a Homelite last season and had to modify the exhaust. I would like to try the electric blowers and have the generator on the truck and NOT have 2-stroke fumes all over me all day long.Does anyone know what cfm is needed to remove bees from supers on a commercial scale? Peter. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 20:38:14 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dr Dave Subject: Re: AFB in supers -Reply Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -Blaine White wrote: >2. If you happen to be in or near a state that has an ethylene oxide >(ETO) treatment available. Only a few states have these facilities >but again this treatment allows you to kill the AFB spores in the >equipment without destroying the combs. As far as I know only >Maryland, North Carolina and maybe Maine have such equipment and not >sure if they do as EPA is trying to phase out use of ETO. Again >contacting your state apairist will be the best source of information >for your area. It is my understanding that ethylene oxide is the chemical used in chemical sterilization in hospitals everywhere. It is hazardous and must be handled as such, but it is much more available than you indicated. If I am not mistaken, my former employer, Union Carbide, is the major supplier. drdave ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 22:38:01 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: AFB in supers -Reply Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Dr Dave: You are correct that ethylene oxide is readily available and in most states for hospital use. However, EPA has only issued licenses to Mayland, North Carolina, and Maine for use of ETO on honey bee equipment. Although Maryland has had a portable ETO fumigation chamber in use for many years, EPA has now Reinterpreted their rather wild regulations, so that to date, Maryland has not been allowed to purchase Ethylene Oxide yet this year. Another shining example of "someone looking over your shoulder". George Imirie ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 14:10:01 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Rich Subject: Pests in the Hive Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology My husband, the beekeeper, is away on business for the week. While he was gone I went out to check on our hive. I found the upper super with bees drawing out comb, but when I removed the super to check the top brood, there were about three clumps of propolis covered magot-like creatures. The bees were all over them and evidently trying to get rid of them. They are completely white about 3/4 to 1 inch long and about a 1/4 inch thick. The clusters were on top of the bars. I was unable to get to the frames that they were sitting on. I guess I chickened out after being stung twice. I thought I had better wait for the beekeeper to return! Can anyone identify these pests? I looked in Root's ABC book, but they didn't seem to fit the description of any of the wax moth larvae. Thank you, Lois Rich ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 14:52:12 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adrian Wenner Subject: Andy Nachbaur Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Dave Green wrote: > I am already working on [recording Andy's contributions]. I have been >>pulling together everything I can find, to edit and put together a book >of >"Andyisms." Here's my two cents worth (perhaps not worth much more, as Andy might have said). Andy was an independent thinker, rivalled by few. Actually, most good beekeepers I know are independent thinkers and also bright. The difference is that Andy did not hesitate to openly call a spade a spade as he saw it. He was one of the few, for instance, to provide the public support our group has needed. In particular, as all might appreciate, I especially savored the following comments by Andy: ******** "Anytime anything is posted that brings a response from Dr. Adrian Wenner, its worth the read, both posts of course. Adrian reminds me mostly of Dr. John Eckert, who I was fortunate to have spent many late night hours talking bees in his later years. Both men have the same eye for bees that I like to think I have.... "Anyway Dr. Wenner, like Dr. Eckert and a few others from the past are able to see these things, the same things that we beekeepers see and explain them so that even I can almost understand them. Are they always right, NO, but all have one thing in common, an open mind." ********* I knew John Eckert well, a friend of our extensive beekeeping family, for decades and considered him the ultimate gentleman scientist. Understandably, I am pleased to be placed in the same class by someone as astute as Andy. No, I never met Andy but wish I had. Perhaps his one utterance that has stayed in my mind more than anything else was his reference to all too many of those engaged in bee science --- "B.S." --- as he put it. He knew that we actually still know very little about bee biology; that notion seems to escape many of those in bee science, who seem more content to live with dogma from the past. May Andy, wherever he is, be able to practice beekeeping as we knew it in the late 1930s (before pesticides, mites, etc.). Adrian Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home phone) 967 Garcia Road (805) 893-8062 (UCSB FAX) Santa Barbara, CA 93103 **************************************************************************** * * "Nature only answers rightly when she is rightly questioned." * * Goethe **************************************************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 22:44:47 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Scott Moser Organization: MailCity (http://www.mailcity.lycos.com:80) Subject: Swarm Cells Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings all, First, I was saddened to hear of the loss of Andy. Though I have only been on the list a short time, I recall serval posts that he made to the list, and I found his website to be extremely valuable to a new beekeeper. He will be missed by all. I live near St. Louis, Missouri, and today, upon opening a hive of Starlines, I found that the bees had built up rather quickly, and had well filled the two deep hive bodies. Upon further examination, I found one capped swarm cell, two that were ready to be capped, and 4-5 others that had larvae! One of my other Italian hives also showed a couple of swarm cells! I contacted one of the members of my local association, who is a master beekeeper, and he said he had never heard or seen them preparing for swarming so early in the season! I plan to split both these hives in about three weeks, as soon as my new queens arrive. He was kind of at a loss as to what to do! I cut out the cells, in an effort to gain some time. ANY suggestions out there? This hive also was trying to swarm from July through September last year too! Cool weather finally stopped that. Any ideas or solutions would be appreciated. Thanks! Scott Moser Get your FREE Email at http://mailcity.lycos.com Get your PERSONALIZED START PAGE at http://personal.lycos.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 00:51:47 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: HStarJE@AOL.COM Subject: Burr Comb gone wild Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Whenever I see large amounts of burr comb in my hives due to my faulty beekeeping practices (like missing frames) it seems to build up at an incredible speed compared to the drawing of foundation. Is this my neurotic imagination or has anyone else noticed this? ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 06:55:00 -0500 Reply-To: mayortb@ix.netcom.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Thom Bradley Subject: Re: Swarm Cells Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott, I would just let the bees do what they want to do, but swarm them under your control. You will be able to find directions to perform a Damaree method swarm. In effect this is a method by which you swarm the hive but retain the swarm as a split. Just requeen the split and original colony when your queens arrive. Check in a couple of of days, you probably missed 1 or 2 swarm cells. the best thing is to always allow or help the bees to do what they want to do. Just help them do it in the best and most efficient manner. Thom Bradley Scott Moser wrote: > I found one capped swarm cell, two that were ready to be capped, and 4-5 others that had larvae! One of my other Italian hives also showed a couple of swarm cells! I plan to split both these hives in about three weeks, as soon as my new queens arrive. ANY suggestions out there? This hive also was trying to swarm from July through September last year too! Cool weather finally stopped that. Any ideas or solutions would be appreciated. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 18:53:10 -0000 Reply-To: John Burgess Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Burgess Subject: Honeybee Improvement Program MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My thanks to Alan Dick for the explanation of the HIP. A couple of points occurred to me which might need to be taken into account in interpreting the results of the programme. Firstly, is any observed effect due to the development of a resistance to varroa or to virus(es)? UK experience has shown colonies able to co-exist with massive populations of varroa and conversely, colony losses are frequently associated with bee viruses. Current thinking is that the mite activates normally inapparent virus infections to multiply to lethal levels and can subsequently act as a vector. Virus activation is known in other insects, but the mechanisms have not been studied in any detail. It is known that by injecting foreign proteins into bees you can activate inapparent infections; this perhaps mimics what happens when the mite feeds. More detail is available on the IACR website at http://www.res.bbsrc.ac.uk/entnem/research/chdva.htm . Obviously, it does not matter what mechanism results in the ability of colonies to survive, but a knowledge of what is actually going on may be very important in breeding to fix the desirable trait. Although it is probably not yet relevant to the HIP work, it should be remembered that there are at least two strains of varroa, differing in their virulence. The milder strain is found in South America, and might be the reason why africanised honeybees have been reported as resistant to varroa. As AHBees move north, this factor might need to be taken into account. Reference the previous Tektran thread: >DNA EVIDENCE OF THE ORIGIN OF 'VARROA' JACOBSONI >OUDEMANS IN THE AMERICAS > >Author(s): >DE GUZMAN LILIA I >RINDERER THOMAS E >STELZER JOHN A I would also like to mention that the IACR website contains an outline of their research into biological control of varroa, concentrating on mite pathogenic fungi. As a personal opinion (definitely not fact!) I believe that the possibility of feral bees becoming the source of resistant bees before becoming extinct is very small. The IACR approach seems to me to be a more hopeful approach. Isn't there a saying about fleas with little fleas upon them? Literally millions of species have become extinct since life on earth began, but perhaps we can help this one to survive until it can evolve to an equilibrium with the parasite. John Burgess, Editor Gwenynwyr Cymru/The Welsh Beekeeper pencaemawr@bigfoot.com ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 09:41:29 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Pollinator@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Swarm Cells Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/28/99 4:04:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, s_moser@mailcity.com writes: > Upon further examination, I found one capped swarm cell, two that were ready > to be capped, and 4-5 others that had larvae! One of my other Italian hives > also showed a couple of swarm cells! I contacted one of the members of my > local association, who is a master beekeeper, and he said he had never heard > or seen them preparing for swarming so early in the season! I plan to split > both these hives in about three weeks, as soon as my new queens arrive. You can't get better queens than ones raised from swarm cells. They are extremely well fed by strong colonies. Some will say that by making splits with swarm cells, you encourage the swarmy trait. I have to say that I've seen enough weak bees in the last fifteen years, that if a hive is strong enough to be swarmy, that's the kind of bees I want. The only problem this early would be the chance of stormy weather during the mating time. But then, I've seen stormy weather much later too..... > He > was kind of at a loss as to what to do! I cut out the cells, in an effort to > gain some time. ANY suggestions out there? Some hobby beekeepers go though the hives every few days cutting out cells. Big mistake! It keeps the bees demoralized and often mean tempered as well. And sooner or later, you will have a cell that you miss, and it's likely to be a little bitty, lousy queen. The bees swarm anyway; you only delayed them, and you wind up with a junk hive. Remember that queens are programed to swarm in the second year. Queens a year or less in age will swarm only if you severely crowd them. Second year queens are almost impossible to stop. So regular requeening and splitting are the two management tools that serious beekeepers use for swarm control. All else is mostly extra work. Pollinator@aol.com Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html The Pollination Home Page: http://www.pollinator.com Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles) http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 10:39:39 EST Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Swarm Cells Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Of the colonies I made last year from swarm cells all made it through the winter strong and are filling frames with brood. Last year I picked this groups collective brain on making increase from swarm cells and it is one of the best things I have done. I highly reccomend you make a nuc up whenever you find nice fat swarm cells in a strong nice tempered colony. It is about the easiest way to get queens who grow up fat and end up well mated weather permitting. Of 30 colonies going into winter 28 are up and ok this spring, one of the losses was an iffy thing even in the fall. The other failed colony appears to have cornered itself away from the food and starved. An additional colony had the crawly bees you get from T mites but has since recovered after shedding most of the older bees. I will need a little more dilligence with grease patties I suppose. Crocus are in bloom with a bee in every flower. I am mentoring a beginner and yesterday we went through the hive that we will make up her Nuc from together. She will be starting out in all mediums so that she can weigh more than the box of honey. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 11:03:27 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: Larvae in hive Comments: To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lois Rich questioned larvae in her husband's hive that did not seem to fit the descriptions she found of wax moth larvae. Lois, we have a new pest and if you are very unlucky it may be infesting your hive. It is called the small hive beetle, and the larvae does all the damage. I have never seen this larvae alive, but understand it can be easily be distinguished from the wax moth larvae because it has "pro-legs". These are little appendages that look like legs (but are not). They look like the "legs" on inch worms and other moth/butterfly larvae. If your larvae have these, run, do not walk, to your state department of agriculture and report your finding. If they do not, you have wax moth larvae and can relax. With your disturbance, the bees will be able to get to the wax moth larvae and will kill them. They were previously hidden inside the burr comb that you broke. Good luck, Lloyd Lloyd Spear Owner, Ross Rounds(tm). The finest in comb honey production. http://www.rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:45:08 +1200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Nick Wallingford Organization: Bay of Plenty Polytechnic Subject: Another NZ 'virtual field day'... Comments: To: BEE-L@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU Saturday was the Waikato Branch Beekeepers Field Day here in New Zealand. It is generally one of the better attended and most interesting of the ones held in the North Island each autumn. I took photos and notes so you can all 'attend' if you want... http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/waikato (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- home nickw@beekeeping.co.nz (/ work nick.wallingford@boppoly.ac.nz NZ Beekeeping http://www.beekeeping.co.nz