From MAILER-DAEMON Fri Sep 17 12:52:23 1999 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by luna.oit.unc.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA27359 for ; Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:21 -0400 (EDT) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA11136 for ; Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:17 -0400 (EDT) Message-Id: <199909171652.MAA11136@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:17 -0400 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9908A" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Content-Length: 107058 Lines: 2368 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 23:31:19 -0400 Reply-To: Al Needham Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Al Needham Subject: Save Honey Bees Ribbon Graphic MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For those of you on the List who have a web site, or may want use a "Save HoneyBees - No Pesticides" graphic in your e-mail or what have you I have created a yellow ribbon graphic that is available on my web site's page as follows: http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine/beesite.htm You are free to download and use it as you may please. Al Needham Scituate, MA.,USA Visit " The BeeHive " Learn About Honey Bees And Beekeeping http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 12:39:55 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Malcom (Tom) Sanford" Organization: Dept of Entomology/Nematology, U. of Florida Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 30 Jul 1999 to 31 Jul 1999 (#1999-128) MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Peter Watt discusses the old vs new beekeeping information as discussed in the July APIS: THE "OLD" BEEKEEPING LITERATURE: OVERRELIANCE ON THE NEW A colleague recently lamented that no one seems interested in the old beekeeping literature anymore. Its use, he said, seems to have been replaced by a reliance on the "new," primarily driven by electronic technology. The information superhighway is so powerful that it can sometimes cause us to become complacent, believing that all there is to know must be at our fingertips. I have also been guilty of this over reliance on the new. It is so easy to acquire information on the net that going to the library or other sources seems much more difficult than it did originally. My colleague characterized such behavior as "lazy." I would prefer a kindler, gentler term, but the essence of the comments appear to be on the mark. As a pioneer in electronic information technology, I analyzed the genesis of the phenomenon and what this might mean for apiculture extension activities in the October 1996 APIS . At first glance the issue seems to boil down to two words: relevance and accessibility. Unfortunately, the "old" literature often falls short in both categories. New technologies (hive materials, feed, transportation) and environmental conditions (plants, weather, pests) have affected beekeeping in many ways that older literature does not describe. Although the old literature continues to be valuable in characterizing the nuts and bolts of honey bee biology and management, it was and still is not very accessible to the average beekeeper. To find this information, one had to visit scientific libraries. Some of it made its way into the journals and newsletters, but much did not. Although not readily accessible, however, this does not mean that the older literature lacked relevance. If one spends much time reading routine messages on Internet discussion lists, or like this author, receives questions by electronic mail, it's easy to see reliance on the new. Clearly many persons use the electronic medium as their only information source. Since a lot of these are beginning beekeepers, it seems natural to gravitate to this new method. However, there is a huge amount of good data that is not available through this medium. And it will be a long, long time, if ever, before literally hundreds of years of research and observations about one of humanity's oldest agricultural endeavors are available online. In the final analysis, it may not be accurate to characterize the situation as one of either-or. Much good current and older information on beekeeping, for example, is found in the trade journals (The Speedy Bee, American Bee Journal and Bee Culture in the United States, and tens of magazines and newsletters in other countries). How new or old this information might be is a matter of conjecture. Some of these publications have been around since before the turn of the twentieth century. If one examines many so-called "new ideas" developed in the contemporary beekeeping environment, these have, more often than not, already been described in the older literature. On the other hand, the quality and quantity of information found on the World Wide Web never ceases to amaze. This is the genesis of my column in Bee Culture, "Beekeeping in the Digital Age" . Both old and new information resources, therefore, have much to offer. It is a mistake to rely on one at the expense of the other. The newer technology, though, takes one beyond the conventional debate centered on either the age or quality of the information itself. It portends something most have yet to fully realize: Not only will it be responsible for what we know, but how we know it. -- =========================================================================== Dr. Malcolm (Tom) Sanford, Extension Apiculturist, University of Florida Bldg. 970, P.O. Box 110620, Gainesville, FL 32611-0620 Ph. 352/392-1801 ext. 143 Fax 352/392-0190 E-mail: mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Publisher of the APIS newsletter: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~mts/apishtm/apis.htm To electronically subscribe, send the following to listserv@lists.ufl.edu: subscribe Apis-L First Name Last Name ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Author of "Beekeeping in the Digital Age" http://bee.airoot.com/beeculture/digital/ =========================================================================== ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 22:59:37 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Don Rahman Subject: Re: Apistan and/or coumaphos MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Varroa jacobsoni mates in the capped cells with the pupae. The mother mite enters the cell just before it is capped and immediately goes to the bottom of the cell and feeds on the worker or drone jelly. Then moves up and feeds on the prepupa. Then 60 hours after capping the female lays her first egg, generally a male, then subsequent eggs laid are female. They hatch and mate before the bee is ready to hatch. So the mating is definitely sister/brother. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 22:15:38 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: peter dillon Subject: Sunflower Honey Crop MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bonjour again, Question- What are other peoples Sunflower Crop like this year? And before I get the response-Yellow The amount in kg. or lb.-just an indication, please. Responses from France would be extremely welcome. Peter. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 22:50:21 -0400 Reply-To: String & Linda Monteith Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: String & Linda Monteith Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The mesh floors are used both summer and winter but during the >winter months about 3" of wood wool insulation is placed between the crown >board (cover board) and normal roof What is Wood Wool Insulation & where can I buy it? Linda in Ohio (USA) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 07:04:15 -0400 Reply-To: loganv@earthlink.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Logan VanLeigh Subject: Re: Yellow Jackets MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is (or used to be) a poison that was micro-encapsulated. You mixed a powder or paste with an appropriate bait. The offending critters carried it to their nest where it was released during digestion resulting in a dead colony. Great for yellow jackets when mixed with tuna. Anyone know of a source? Logan String & Linda Monteith wrote: > > We have had serious problems with yellow jackets trying to get into the > hives (only in the fall). ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 16:01:19 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bruce Guidotti Subject: Re: New Bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a friend who started a hive from package bees this spring --May 1. They multiplied nicely. Filled out their first deep brood chamber in record time. Filled out a second deep brood chamber with solid honey frames on both ends. He then put on a queen exluder and a shallow about the first of July. The bees didn't go up into the shallow. Built a lot of burr comb down below. He sprayed the shallow with sugar water. They'd come up to get it but still wouldn't draw out comb. I told him to take out the excluder and to feed them which he did two weeks ago. The bees are plentiful in the shallow now -- and have been since he removed the exluder -- but they still refuse to draw out the comb there. The bees are foraging actively. Not sure what they are doing with what they bring back? He has no drawn out comb to use as "bait" in the shallow. He would dearly love to get some honey for exracting. What should he do??? Is it possible the queen is honey bound? Should he cut out the burr comb and take out some of the brood frames. If we go into the brood chambers, what should we be looking for? Anyone have any ideas. Bruce ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 14:26:12 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: Apistan and/or coumaphos In-Reply-To: <199908011652.MAA04515@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Varroa jacobsoni mates in the capped cells with the pupae. The mother mite > enters the cell just before it is capped and immediately goes to the bottom > of the cell and feeds on the worker or drone jelly. Then moves up and feeds > on the prepupa. Then 60 hours after capping the female lays her first egg, > generally a male, then subsequent eggs laid are female. They hatch and mate > before the bee is ready to hatch. So the mating is definitely sister/brother. Does this pass the all, every, and any test? I think not. Two unrelated varroa mothers could conceivably wind up in the same cell. allen ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 21:29:38 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Steven Turner Subject: The 1999 National Honey Show Comments: cc: kentbee-l@zbee.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit The 68th National Honey Show with International Classes and Beekeepers' Lecture Convention, 1999 Organised by THE NATIONAL HONEY SHOW LIMITED The show is sponsored by The Worshipful Company of Wax Chandlers PROGRAMME OF EVENTS SCHEDULE OF CLASSES AND PRIZES Thursday, 11th November 2.30 pm - 7.00 pm (doors open for Opening Ceremony 1.45 pm) Friday, 12th November 9.30 am - 7.00 pm Saturday, 13th November 9.30 am - 5.00 pm ADMISSION: Adults £4.00 · Children 16 and under 50p · Members free THURSDAY 11th NOVEMBER 2.00 pm Opening Ceremony HIS EXCELLENCY PROFESSOR GEORGE B KIRYA High Commissioner of the Republic of Uganda SATURDAY 13th NOVEMBER 4.00 pm Presentation of Cups and Trophies D SMART Past President of the Cheshire Beekeepers Association LECTURE CONVENTION and Programme THURDAY 11th NOVEMBER 1.45 Doors open 2.00 Opening Ceremony 3.00 "Preparation of Honey for Showing" Mary Hill 4.30 "The Requirements of Beekeeping in the year 2000 and Beyond" Alan Johnson 7.00 Show closes FRIDAY 12th NOVEMBER 9.30 Show opens 10.30 "Cold Honey Cooking" Michael Young 11.45 "Conservation of the European Black Bee in Sweden" Dr Josef Stark 3.00 "Wonderful Things about Bees" Prof Robert Pickard 4.15 "Man's First Plastic – Beeswax and beyond" Brian Reynolds 5.30 "Fun, Failure, Fascination – Some Glances into Bee Breeding" Dr Volprecht Maul 7.0 Show closes SATURDAY 13th NOVEMBER 9.30 Show opens 10.30 "Pollination in Pastureland Dr Josef Stark 11.45 "Buxton to Arizona" Gerry Northam 1.15 "The Role of Apiculture in Germany" Dr Volprecht Maul 2.30 National Honey Show Annual General Meeting followed by the Annual Meeting of the National Council 4.00 Presentation of Trophies and Awards followed by the Draw. 5.00 Show closes 5.30 Collect Exhibits The Schedule of Classes and other information can be downloaded from the National Honey show web site: http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/nhs/ ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 19:55:44 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Scott Moser Subject: Cut Comb Production MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Howdy all, Getting ready to order some supplies for next year, and I need some advice from the list. A fellow beekeeper, who produces quite a bit of comb honey says he never uses a full sheet of comb foundation in his boxes. He uses a 1 inch starter strip across the top. does this work well? Next year, I would like to use shallow boxes to make some cut comb honey. He claims the bees make a thinner midrib than the foundation, thus better cut comb. Does this work or not? Would I be better off using a full sheet of foundation instead. Thanks. Scott ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 20:50:47 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Robert J. Cessac" Subject: Re: Wax Moth Control MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ron how long does this last before you have to replace it. I used a whole banana last time. Do you use just the peeling? It works great if the bees do not go after the sugar water. I had some go after it, maybe because I do not have enough vinegar for the last one. Bob Cessac ratylor421 wrote: > In the Lowcountry of South Carolina we use a wax moth trap. You take 2 liter > coke bottle and cut a one and 1 1/4 inch hole. You add a cope of vinegar, cup > of sugar and a bananna peeling. fill it 3/4 with water and hang bottle in bee > yard. it will attract wax moths and not bees. ron taylor, Geechee honey farm ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 23:33:21 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Pollinator@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/30/99 12:06:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bees@KENLIA.ENTA.NET writes: << As previously stated I read in BEE-L pages of someone's belief that these floors could be used as a management technique for controlling varroa, the idea being that many mites fall from the bees, some to fall upon bees lower down the comb, some to fall to the floor. It is those that fall to the floor that manage to scramble back up into the box and onto the bees, hence the reason that in the UK (and I believe in the States) we were using sticky, or petroleum jelly covered inserts to 'glue' them down. With mesh floors they just drop through the mesh onto the ground below to be consumed by ants and the like, if it works a totally environmentally friendly method of controlling mite populations - but don't forget, it will not control infestations on its own, chemicals are also likely to be needed but maybe less often. >> I have just been made aware of a very large, healthy feral honeybee colony, which might give some evidence of the benefit of an open bottom, for varroa control. Most of the feral colonies I come across are not in very good shape; often they are on the way out. Most are, I suspect escapees from domestic bees, and only survive until the varroa levels build up. This colony is out in the open air, underneath an air conditioner. I watched them for a while and did not spot any varroa on any adults. They look clean and well fed. I am going to transfer them to a hive, for three reasons, though I know it is a risk, this late in the season. 1. The property owner says he is in no hurry, but will exterminate them if I don't take them. 2. I want the stock. They are obviously healthy, and tentatively I would grade them as quite gentle. I observed them from 3-4 feet for quite a while and none paid me any attention. 3. I know that soon they will be fighting for their lives from yellow jackets. I believe this is the main reason few exposed hives survive. Hives that are tipped over are often fine, when I right them back, but in the fall, they often succumb to YJ robbing. Any mites that drop off this colony, would have to move to the building, up about 6 feet, then back out along the bottom of the air conditioner. I would think few of them would ever be able to get back to the colony. I've been toying with a thought on another method of organic varroa control. How about a mesh floor with room for a tray underneath? Periodically, slide in a tray with soapy water, and smoke the bees with tobacco smoke, which is known to make varroa fall off. I believe the soapy water would effectively kill any mites that dropped, removing any chance of climbing back up. It would, of course require a specially built bottom board. Any thoughts? Dave Green Hemingway, SC The Pollination Home Page http://www.pollinator.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 09:53:07 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > Any mites that drop off this colony, would have to move to the building, > up about 6 feet, then back out along the bottom of the air conditioner. I > would think few of them would ever be able to get back to the colony. >From a presentation I saw last week on mites, they will not move more than about 3/4 of an inch when questing for a new host. They are also prone to drying out during this time. So if you have good air flow and can keep the mite off the bee long enough then you will do some good. Another large issue was to not wait for those 99.9% solutions. Keeping the mites under multiple controls will be our best bet in the long run. An open bottom board that is constantly killing 3% of the mite population will do a great deal to keep a colony alive and healthy. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 04:01:24 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: Cut Comb Production In-Reply-To: <199908020328.XAA14471@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > A fellow beekeeper, who produces quite a bit of comb > honey says he never uses a full sheet of comb foundation in his boxes. He > uses a 1 inch starter strip across the top. ... He > claims the bees make a thinner midrib than the foundation, thus better cut > comb. Does this work or not? It can work very nicely with bees that build straight comb. Be sure your hives are level, though. allen ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 12:25:49 -0400 Reply-To: beeman@kingston.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: kent stienburg Subject: Re: Cut Comb Production MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Scott, I have used the full sheet (6.25") comb foundation and pins to support it. It is very thin and works nice. As Allen has said "you can use only a small strip, but if your hive is not level you will run in to a problem. The foundation is pretty cheap and I reuse the pins so I never thought about it. This year the comb melted in your mouth the wax was very fine. To make good comb honey you have to know when your strong honey flows are. Good luck! Kent ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 15:01:08 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ken Hoare Subject: Organic varroa control MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Was pleased that Dave Green appears to have found a feral colony whose number of mites is being limited (I never said controlled, neither did Dave) by mites falling from the bees to the ground below. A few years back I understood a varroa treatment was licensed in France under the trade name Apivar, I never heard anymore about it but from their trade literature I quote, "A female mite born on January 1st will have given birth to 1000 mites by December 31st of the same year". Well if in using Open Mesh Floors I can encourage just a few mites to take the fatal drop I must be assisting my bees to survive this parasite. Open Mesh Floors appear more used than I thought but Dave mentions tobacco smoke. Has he ever used this horrendous (and that's a pipe smoker talking) method of knocking down mites. Initially in the UK a system of diagnosis was being advocated where a few frames were placed into a sealed nucleus box, a few puffs of tobacco smoke blown in and left whilst the remainder of the colony was worked. I demonstrated the method at a meeting and was horrified on opening the nucleus box to find several hundred DEAD BEES on the floor. The method never caught on, well those attending my demonstration never used it, and I've never been invited back!! Back to mesh floors. Using 15" stands I have found it very easy to wedge thin plywood or similar just below the floor. Put into position without having to lift brood boxes, they are left in for a couple of days and then removed - hence no wax moths. A few mites may be blown away (very few in our present calm and sultry weather) to give a false reading BUT WHAT IS PERFECT IN BEEKEEPING? I am working on copying the German mesh floor article, all requests will be fulfilled in the course of time. Ken Hoare bees@kenlia.enta.net ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 20:58:34 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Harry Goudie Subject: Re: Cut Comb Production MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I produce comb honey every year and up until a couple of years ago I always used a full piece of foundation. However a couple of years ago it was very hot (yes it sometimes get hot in Scotland even up to 25 deg!!!!) and the foundation melted causing a terrible mess. I noticed that Kent thought foundation was cheap but it is not cheap when it is ruined. Now I use strips of foundation which works 90% as well as full sheets. In fact I now just use strips of wax which are made by pouring wax over a sheet of glass. Harry. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 13:30:36 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Cut Comb Production MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott Moser wrote: > A fellow beekeeper, who produces quite a bit of comb > honey says he never uses a full sheet of comb foundation in his boxes. He > uses a 1 inch starter strip across the top. does this work well? I was recently asked by a fellow beekeeper to do some cut comb. I replied that I had tried in the past, but the foundation often buckled and the frame then became useless. He said that he never had that problem because he only used a one inch starter strip, and it always worked out fine. Next year I plan to put on a few supers doing this and see what happens. I do get a lot of requests for comb honey, which I've always had to turn down. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 15:00:48 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ken Hoare Subject: Wood wool insulation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Linda in Ohio asks about wood wool insulation. I think that is the correct name and have seen it used to insulate roofs in schools, swimming pools etc. (Mine were offcuts, acquired for the price of a jar of honey.) The drawing accompanying the Open Mesh Floor trials state, "Minimum 2" dense polystyrene or Styrofoam insulation recommended". Hope this has been of some assistance Linda but basically a good insulation and one easily and cheaply obtained. Ken Hoare ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 06:19:55 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Dave Green wrote: ... > Any mites that drop off this colony, would have to move to the building, > up about 6 feet, then back out along the bottom of the air conditioner. I > would think few of them would ever be able to get back to the colony. The thing to remember here is that we're talking about mites. Mites are not hunter/gatherers, they're opportunistic blood sucking predators! The reason open bottoms (or in this case, no bottoms) are effective is that mites that fall off do not go searching for a new host, they lie in wait for a new host to come walking by. If a new host walks by, the nites hop on. If no host comes walking by the mites wait until they die (usually via dessiccation) or they are predatored by hunter/gatherer insects (perhaps ants) or hell freezes over. > ... How about a mesh floor with room for a tray underneath? > Periodically, slide in a tray with soapy water, and smoke the bees with > tobacco smoke, which is known to make varroa fall off. I believe the soapy > water would effectively kill any mites that dropped, removing any chance of > climbing back up. It would, of course require a specially built bottom board. > Any thoughts? Sounds like an effective plan if you've got the time and inclination. Actually it's the same strategy as sticky boards except you've substituted the soapy water for the sticky board. Aaron Morris - thinking there's more than one way to skin a mite! ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 2 Aug 1999 19:33:45 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GImasterBK@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Wax Moth Control MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In the states, many URINAL deodorant blocks that are placed in men's urinals are made of 99% PDB, and they are a lot cheaper than buying PDB from a bee supply house. Maybe the same thing is true in the Caribbean - check with the suppliers of urinal blocks for the urinals in hotels, large offices, or restaurants. Good Luck. George ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 16:00:57 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Max Watkins Subject: Re: Apistan and/or coumaphos In-Reply-To: <199908012039.QAA07333@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Allen Dick wrote: They hatch and mate > before the bee is ready to hatch. So the mating is definitely sister/brother. Does this pass the all, every, and any test? I think not. Two unrelated varroa mothers could conceivably wind up in the same cell. allen Yep. I've seen many examples of multiple invasion of cells by maternal mites, which must allow for cross fertilisation between the progeny. Max Dr Max Watkins Vita (Europe) Limited Tel 44 (0) 1256 473177 Brook House, Alençon Link, Fax 44 (0) 1256 473179 Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 7RD, UK ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 08:33:35 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Adrian Wenner Subject: Re: Yellow Jacket Control Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Logan asked (in response to a communication by String & Linda Monteith): >There is (or used to be) a poison that was micro-encapsulated. You >mixed a powder or paste with an appropriate bait. The offending >critters carried it to their nest where it was released during digestion >resulting in a dead colony. Great for yellow jackets when mixed with >tuna. Anyone know of a source? ********** One can buy micro-encapsulated Diazinon under the name KNOX-OUT at farm supply stores. The yellow jackets carry poisoned bait back to their colonies, where trophyllaxis (mutual feeding) spreads the poison about. To exploit a tuna/poison mixture, one must proceed in steps. First, use pure tuna alone to build up a feeding frenzy. Then, switch to some tuna laced with KNOX-OUT. Also, one must not too high a concentration of the poison, or the yellow jackets might avoid the bait. ****** Adrian Adrian M. Wenner (805) 963-8508 (home phone) 967 Garcia Road (805) 893-8062 (UCSB FAX) Santa Barbara, CA 93106 **************************************************************************** ****** * * You cannot hold on to the past; when you're holding on to the past, you're * protecting yourself and stealing from future generations." * * NASA Chief, Dan Goldin * LOS ANGELES TIMES - 1 July 1999 * **************************************************************************** ****** ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 16:31:15 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ken Hoare Subject: Copies of German mesh floor article MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Due to 'Rain stopping Play (not cricket but beekeeping)' in the UK the German article on Open Mesh Floors has already been copied and sent to those that requested it. If I have forgotten anyone (a combination of age and yesterdays sun shining on my balding head) please return this message and I will forward straight away. Ken Hoare bees@kenlia.enta.net ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 12:57:06 -0400 Reply-To: beeman@kingston.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: kent stienburg Subject: cut comb MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The problem with buckling wax foundation is something I have not had happen. Yet 2 of the replies have mentioned it. Harry mentioned that it has happened to him. The temp you mentioned Harry of 25 C is a normal summer temperature here in South Eastern Ontario Canada. In fact alot of North America is experiencing a heat wave right now. We have had temps here that ranged from 30C to 35C for weeks on end and some of the southern United States have been worse. When I put my super on for cut comb the average temp was around 25 to 30 C. None of the foundation distorted that I could tell. I wonder if there is something different about our hives or the foundation? All of my hives have ventilated inner boards. I drill some 2.5 - 5 cm holes and cover them with fine screen. I then make a small box (much like a shallow super) and put some holes in it of the same diameter and cover them with screen. I place the box on top of the inner cover and the hive lid on top of the box. I've always been a big believer in good hive ventilation. Maybe this keeps the hive temperature low enough so as to prevent warping? I use 4 pins in every frame to hold the wax. All my hives get full sun. Interesting differences! Kent ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 13:03:10 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: Apistan and/or coumaphos MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >Yep. I've seen many examples of multiple invasion of cells by maternal >mites, which must allow for cross fertilisation between the progeny. These maternal mites are most likely "sisters". Even with multiple invasions the females are going to be close relatives most of the time. Maternal mites carry all of the DNA so offspring are going to be clones of the parent. Once a hive is infested with mites I would guess that the population is going to tend to be close relatives. So inbreeding is still the case. I was told last week by someone doing DNA research on the mites that they have found only a few strains. I think only two strains in the United States?? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 15:17:44 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tom Speight Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 1 Aug 1999 to 2 Aug 1999 (#1999-130) In-Reply-To: <199908030400.AAA14334@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 In message <199908030400.AAA14334@listserv.albany.edu>, Automatic digest processor writes >I've been toying with a thought on another method of organic varroa >control. How about a mesh floor with room for a tray underneath? >Periodically, slide in a tray with soapy water, and smoke the bees with >tobacco smoke, which is known to make varroa fall off. I believe the soapy >water would effectively kill any mites that dropped, removing any chance of >climbing back up. It would, of course require a specially built bottom >board. Any thoughts? Why not just use the sticky inserts (Fablon?)TM or greased paper already used widely in the U.K.? -- Tom Speight ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 15:35:47 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: Apistan and/or coumaphos In-Reply-To: <199908031724.NAA28448@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >Yep. I've seen many examples of multiple invasion of cells by maternal > >mites, which must allow for cross fertilisation between the progeny. > > These maternal mites are most likely "sisters". But not necessarily. > So inbreeding is still the case. Not always. allen Test everything... And the test is 'all, every, and any'. Anything that flunks is false. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 20:14:48 -0400 Reply-To: admin@beeworks.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Eyre Subject: Re: Splits, Supercedure queens In-Reply-To: <199907270540.BAA15122@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Allen Dick wrote > > In contrast, those in the 'purchased queen only' camp -- if I understand > > correctly -- are to a man, sideliners and people who are willing to do a > > lot of work, suffer considerable inconvenience, and overlook massive > > failures of purchased queens to achieve their ideals. To me, there also > > seems to be attempt at domination over the bees in their approach. On 26 Jul 99, at 21:09, Tom Elliott wrote: > I have several times removed a queen and, since I read that bees when > rearing emergency queens will use older larvae, I have gone back in after > 4 days and removed all capped cells. Then no larvae over 24 hours old has > a chance. I always find capped cells on the 4th day. This suggests that > larvae older than 24 hours were used. That is in the Anchorage, Alaska > area. I have been at EAS for a week, so apologise for the late 'pick up' of this thread. At last another observant beekeeper in Tom from Alaska. It doesn't matter where you are, bees will use older larvae for emergency queens. The skeptics, who possibly haven't examined their hives closely after 'walk away splits' have been started, really should take the time and watch what happens. Shouting the odds time after time won't change the facts, emergency queens are junk and will be quickly supersceded. Brother Adam, who so many revere, wrote in his book "Beekeeping at Buckfast Abbey" that he never found a good superscedure queen, he doesn't mention emergency queens [beneath his dignity?]. > Allen Dick wrote:- are to a man, sideliners and people who are willing to do >a lot of work, suffer considerable inconvenience, and overlook >massive failures of purchased queens to achieve their ideals. Not sure where he buys his queens or where these other 'sideliners' are, but we certainly don't get these volumes of complaints, and the odd complaint often is because the customer 'got it wrong'. Before someone starts yelling about 'profit motives' we sell all the queens we raise without having to resort to underhand tactics. ***************************************** The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada.L3V 6H1. Phone (705)326 7171 Fax (705)325 3461 David Eyre, Owner e-mail http://www.beeworks.com This months special:-Headset Magnifiers **************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 00:01:27 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: RASpiek@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Wood wool insulation MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit wood wool is also called rock wool and is a loose fiberous material made from Paper like fiber(hence wood). Sometime it is in a bat form but is always damaged by moisture.. Styrofoam is solid and waterproof. It can be applied to the top of the outer cover if desired. Richard ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 11:25:24 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Stefan Stangaciu Subject: Eclipse and bees behavior MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi there, In several countries from the northern hemisphere we will have soon, on August 11-Th., a sun eclipse. Are there any studies related to the behavior of bees during such an eclipse? If not, what should be the guidelines related to such a study? Best wishes, Stefan Stangaciu Constanta, Romania apither@gmb.ro ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 22:53:54 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Al Subject: Varroa mite population drop In-Reply-To: <199908040149.VAA09445@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I checked a number of my hives Sunday and opened a few drone cells. These colonies have had normal mite populations and I was expecting to treat them within the next few months with Apistan. Instead of finding the normal mite load on the drone larvae ( around 50% with mites) I looked over some workers as well and still found no signs of mites! The hives have queens from different breeders so I doubt there is anything there (I wish!). Has anyone else seen a mite population drop? Could this be heat related? It has been very hot down here. Mites can dry out and die if conditions are right, but I do not think that this level would be the case. I am going to do a sticky board test this weekend to follow up on my observations. Any thoughts? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1999 22:43:03 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Al Subject: Re: Apistan and/or coumaphos In-Reply-To: <199908040149.VAA09445@listserv.albany.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 03:35 PM 8/3/99 -0600, you wrote: >> >Yep. I've seen many examples of multiple invasion of cells by maternal >> >mites, which must allow for cross fertilisation between the progeny. >> >> These maternal mites are most likely "sisters". > >But not necessarily. > >> So inbreeding is still the case. Ok maybe (and only maybe) its a "one in a million" chance! Because, it also appears that the female mites "filter" the DNA that is passed on! Again from my understanding of the mite biology and the reports of recent DNA tests there appears to be only two strains of mites in North America (and I think that the second strain is in the AHB coming up from South America). These mites do not have a lot of genes to start with so genetic diversity is going to be smaller than what an insect would have. Add in the normal method of reproduction that results in "clones" then top it off with the indications that the females "filter" out "bad" DNA and it begins to look like they "desire" inbreeding! It was clearly stated that the mites resistant to Apistan did not appear to have any genetic difference to the general population of mites. In fact it was a bit of a mystery as to how the mites were dealing with the toxin! It could very well be the case that there is an existing gene in the mites that is "turned on" when exposed to low levels of the toxin in question. (I would not be surprised if the mites are not being "cured" as a result of something in the hemolymph of the host bees!) In a bit of a side note, (and again if I am recalling this right) the tracheal mite only has four genes to start with. In a second side note, keeping with the subject, the EPA just outlawed two more pesticides in the same family as Coumaphos. A lawsuit is being filed against the EPA due to there slow moving in outlawing the more toxic pesticides. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 14:13:17 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Bees moving eggs! Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All While working with another beekeeper recently, I came across what to me at any rate, was a remarkable situation. The hive consisted of a single brood chamber, a queen excluder and three supers. We were carrying out routine swarm control - the hive had built queen cells as at our last visit and we had cut them all out. We could not find the queen in the brood chamber and we could find no eggs or young larvae there either. We thus concluded that if she were in the hive that she had somehow got past the queen excluder, which turned out to be correct. Detailed examination of the queen excluder revealed no obvious weakness in it. We then searched the supers which at this stage had a lot of eggs and brood in all stages and sure enough my eagle eyed friend found her. The queen was what he considered to be of normal size which deepened the problem as to how she got past the excluder. He then decided to remove the queen from the hive (I used her in a queenless hive), and cut out all sealed queen cells, leaving unsealed cells. The plan then was to return in 7 days and cut out all sealed queen cells except one. (This is my friend's standard approach). When I returned in 7 days, I found an unsealed queen cell in the brood chamber, a location where there was absolutely no evidence of queen activity on the previous visit. Two questions arise in my mind as a result of these examinations. 1. How did the queen get above the excluder?. 2. How did an egg appear in the brood chamber after we had removed the queen when we were satisfied that there were no eggs in the brood chamber?. My friend opined that the bees sometimes transport eggs from one box to another. I have never before heard of this nor have I come across it in anything I have read. A possible answer to 1. above is that the queen somehow slipped into a super during a previous examination. I was told by an experienced beekeeper to always examine the underside of the queen excluder as soon as I remove it to ensure that the queen is not on it and this I always do. (Of course I could have missed her and she would then be outside the brood chamber.) But no. 2. above is to me, a total mystery. Any light which can be shed on the above would be most appreciated. Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park, Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland Tel + 353 1 289 5269 Fax + 353 1 289 9940 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 07:35:57 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: Varroa mite population drop In-Reply-To: <199908041117.HAA18730@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > I checked a number of my hives Sunday and opened a few drone cells. These > colonies have had normal mite populations and I was expecting to treat them > within the next few months with Apistan. Instead of finding the normal mite > load on the drone larvae ( around 50% with mites) I looked over some > workers as well and still found no signs of mites!... Any thoughts? We found varroa last year in bees brought into the honey house from our 3,000 hives and rushed to treat (once with Apistan (R)). Six months later, extensive sampling does not turn up even one mite. Does that mean Apistan (R) killed them all? I don't think so. Everything in nature has its rhythms and sometimes factors combine to reduce populations. An interesting note is that unless one is very careful, an uncritical observer can ascribe the (temporary) natural decline of the pest to his own efforts, rather than to good luck. A good analogy is the caterpillar problem that we see in the north of Canada. Some years they strip the trees bare and make the roads greasy with their crushed bodies, and the next we hardly see one. FWIW, that is why we hear honest, but unscientific people praising worhless 'cures' for many things, including mites. It'll be interesting to see what time and further testing shows up. allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 10:12:15 PDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: GREGOIRE@ENDOR.COM Subject: Nosema /Fall/Spring treatment MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Hello Gang, I have been reading with interest, the Eric Abel experiments with Spring feeding of Funidil-B to colonies using pollen substitute patties on Allen Dick's home page. I am in the process of Fall feeding of Fumidil-b and find it quite a chore, with mixing of the 2:1 syrup and the medication. Division board feeders hold only one gallon, so I must feed twice. I have carefully measured everything, sugar, medication, water, the resulting syrup. I am also carefully measuring out the syrup that is delivered to each colony. In hoping for an easier way to medicate for Nosema, I ask this question; What conclusions have been drawn? Is this methode of delivery a good one ? Can it be used in the Fall? How early in the Spring can it be used, say February ? Grist Mill Apiary Ernie Gregoire Canaan, NH. USA ------------------------------------- 08/04/99 10:12:15 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 16:15:57 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Max Watkins Subject: Re: Apistan and/or coumaphos In-Reply-To: <199908041125.HAA18966@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi, Al, I'm not sure I understand you right, perhaps I've missed part of the argument. What evidence has been presented (and by whom) to show that pyrethroid-resistant varroa are not different genetically from susceptible strains? In Europe, pyrethroid-susceptible and pyrethroid-resistant varroa mites exist side by side, within the same population. The resistant individuals arose from the "original" susceptible population due to high selection pressure through overuse of pyrethroids. However, not all varroa in Europe are resistant, there is a cost involved and where the selection pressure is low, pyrethroid-resistance will not appear. The resistant individuals have more or less the same gene pool as the susceptibles but, like all biological material there is some natural variation. Not all susceptible mites have the ability to become resistant as they do not posess the correct character make-up. Those individuals posessing a character for pyrethroid-tolerance at higher doses are selected for when there is increased selection pressure (presence of pyrethroid). There is bound to be genetic variability at some level in varroa mites as with other species. Even with inbreeding there are occasionally mutations. We looked at the potential resistance mechanisms involved and a paper was published by three of my team: Ref: Elke Hillesheim, Wolfgang Ritter and Denis Bassand (1996). First data on resistance mechanisms of Varroa jacobsoni (Oud) against tau-fluvalinate. Experimental & Applied Acarology, 20 (1996) 283-296. At least in Western Europe, the resistance is in part due to an increased ability in the mite to detoxify the pyrethroid toxin. More detail is given in the paper. If anyone on the list is aware of any further work that has been done on the resistance mechanism(s) please contact me. Max Dr Max Watkins Vita (Europe) Limited Tel 44 (0) 1256 473177 Brook House, Alençon Link, Fax 44 (0) 1256 473179 Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 7RD, UK ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 10:54:31 -0500 Reply-To: lkrengel@mc.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Larry Krengel Subject: Re: Bees moving eggs! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > 1. How did the queen get above the excluder?. Tom - I had a similar quandary last year. One of my hives had a super full of brood - which I didn't realize until I was in the process of extracting. I went back to the colony (the same day) and found brood below the excluder as well. I examined the colony and could find only one queen and no obvious problems in the excluder. I had used a blower to remove the bees from the super so if a second queen were above the excluder, she would have been blown in the area in front of the hive. I still don't know what happened, but considered the possibilities that the queen may have entered the supers from the top. I have on occasion seen a queen on the outside of the hive, and I do leave my telescoping covers ajar to promote circulation. I planned to watch this colony more closely this year, but it swarmed. I captured the swarm and hived it, but it seems likely that that original (adventuresome?) queen has been deposed. Just one of the many things I can't explain about beekeeping. Larry Krengel Marengo, IL USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 18:34:25 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jeff Holbrook Subject: Re: Wood wool insulation In-Reply-To: <199908041108.HAA18530@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard wrote, wood wool is also called rock wool and is a loose fiberous material made from Paper like fiber(hence wood). Sometime it is in a bat form but is always damaged by moisture.. . Richard I don't know much about wood wool but it my experience rock wool is not made from wood products at all. It is made from asbestos, a naturally occurring, long fiber form of the mineral silica that is found in rock. Hence the term Rock Wool. I imagine that wood wool is indeed made of wood fibers but all the rock wool I've seen is in fact asbestos. I have removed tons of this stuff as it was used quite frequently as insulation in older houses. It is impervious to water and will last just about forever. Possibly since asbestos has been banned some entrepreneur has marketed a form of wood wool and called it rock wool so that people would think that it has the water resistance of the original asbestos rock wool. I don't know, that is just speculation. I just wanted to point this out in case somebody found some rock wool somewhere. I did not want them to think that it was made of wood then find out later that they had been dealing with asbestos. I hope this helps! Later! ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 21:28:56 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Rich Subject: Open Mesh Floors - how does it effect the control of other hive pests Additional possible benefits/dangers of open mesh floors not discussed Nobody has mentioned the effect of an open mesh floor to a problem of the Small Hive beetle. It seems that the Small Hive Beetle larvae would be able to reach the ground more readily - but perhaps would not find a home in a well lit/ventilated hive. ... Any thoughts/observations/experiences? Tim Rich ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 12:20:29 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lance Almond Subject: hive overcrowding Comments: To: BEE-L@cnsibm.albany.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My strongest colony (I have three) has two brood supers and one honey super, but appears to be in danger of overcrowding, I don't know if I should risk dividing this late in the year, our central California winters are mild, or if I should add a third brood super. My main goal is to have strong colonies for spring pollination of my fruit trees, the honey super is full but I sometimes remove a frame or two for our personal use of the honey. any other ideas would be most appreciated. thank you, lance lcalmond@aol.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 00:25:43 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: SoVerNet Verification (on pike.sover.net) sover.net from arc1a45.burl.sover.net [207.136.201.173] 207.136.201.173 Fri, 6 Aug 1999 00:24:14 -0400 (EDT) From: "Todd D. Hardie" Organization: Honey Gardens Apiaries Subject: beeswax into candles MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could anyone give advice on how we could turn our bees' wax into candles?. Is there a melter that efficiently and economically melts wax for multiple pours into molds (which we have). We have hundreds of pounds of the beeswax, and as we have moved towards the plastic insert foundation, we are not trading the wax for beeswax foundation anymore. With the price of wax so low on the market, I would like to explore candles. It does not seem to be economical to melt the wax on my electric range, and we do not run a wood stove in the shop enough to be able to plan to get some energy economically for this to heat the wax. Thank you. Todd D. Hardie Honey Gardens Apiaries 51 So. Maple St. Vergennes, VT 05491 tel 802-877-6952 http://www.honeygardens.com ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 08:49:25 +0200 Reply-To: olda.vancata@quicknet.se Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: olda.vancata@QUICKNET.SE Subject: I'm confused... In-Reply-To: <13581583408377@LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU> I quote: " Compared to domestic honey bees, the Russian bees are more than twice as resistant to attack by varroa mites, according to tests by geneticist Thomas E. Rinderer and colleagues at ARS' Honey Bee Breeding, Genetics and Physiology Research Unit in Baton Rouge, La. " end of quote. As I understand the bees from Russia was imported because the domestic bees (and other world wide A. mellifera population as well) have zero resistance to varroa. I'm slightly confused. Can someone kindly explain for me what is 'twice better than zero' ? (2 x 0 = ?.....) How many times the bee must be resistant - compared to not resistant bees - to be genuin resistant as A. cerana is? Means - to be able to keep the varroa population at the 'bee survive level' without any anti varroa treatment. I'm be able to understand a comparison against A. cerana (40% of cerana resistance or 80%... etc), but I have some difficulties to understand this kind of mathematics (2 x 0). Thanx \vov ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 07:32:09 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Richard H. Glassford II" Subject: Making Candles MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello, I am looking for an internet site that can teach me how to harvest and process bees wax and teach me how to make candles. Have any of you come across such a site? I have found many sites where someone wants to sell me candles but I do not want to buy I would like to create my own. If there are no such sites, do any of you have a book recommendation? Many thanks, Rich ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 21:58:48 -0400 Reply-To: admin@beeworks.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: David Eyre Subject: Re: hive overcrowding In-Reply-To: <199908051729.NAA26101@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT On 5 Aug 99, at 12:20, Lance Almond wrote: > My strongest colony (I have three) has two brood supers and one honey > super, but appears to be in danger of overcrowding, I don't know if I > should risk dividing this late in the year, our central California winters > are mild, or if I should add a third brood super. My main goal is to have > strong colonies for spring pollination of my fruit trees, the honey super > is full but I sometimes remove a frame or two for our personal use of the > honey. any other ideas would be most appreciated. Go for it. It's false economy to keep the brood nest too constricted, under ventilated and over crowded, the primary factors which cause swarming, then of course your honey crop goes over the fence when your bees go 'walk about'. Adding a third box on top won't cure the problem either. If you do all it will be is a second honey super. The third box should in effect be placed in the middle of the two existing brood boxes. The ideal way, interleaf the new frames with the old, paying attention to keeping brood frames in the box center. There is always concern with chilled brood doing this, but I've never had problems in mid summer. Only using one honey super is also false economy. Bees need empty cells to move nectar around, if none are available it takes much longer to render the excess moisture out. ***************************************** The Bee Works, 9 Progress Drive, Unit 2, Orillia, Ontario, Canada.L3V 6H1. Phone (705)326 7171 Fax (705)325 3461 David Eyre, e-mail http://www.beeworks.com This months special:-Headset magnifiers **************************************** ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 21:17:52 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Something Fairly Obvious MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Something Fairly Obvious escaped me for some time and I have intended to write about it. So much so, in fact, that I thought that I had already written, and just now wasted some precious time searching back articles for my note. Guess I did not write it. For this I apologize. I refer you to page 19 in your 'Contemporary Queen Rearing' text. In the second column, under 'Queens', the development of an egg into a queen bee is shown in table form. Let's start at the top with an egg being laid at the beginning of the first day. Nothing much appears to happen until the end of the third day, at which time the egg hatches -- according to my book. Let's reset out clock here and call this the first day for the larva. One full day after hatching (twenty-four hours) we see the label '1st moult'. And again after another twenty-four hours, we see '2nd moult'. And at the end of the third day, we see '3rd moult'. BUT at the end of the fourth day, we see '4th moult (Sealing)'. To me this seems to indicate that the cell is sealed when the larva is four days old. Now, here's the puzzler. It has been repeated here on BEE-L time and again, that if a hive is dequeened and, then -- four days later -- sealed cells are found, that they must perforce be from old larvae chosen by the bees. I don't get it. If 1.) a larva is routinely sealed four days after hatching, and 2.) larvae up to 36 hours old are routinely used in grafting and considered acceptable, How does it follow that sealed cells found after four days necessarily contain inferior queens? allen http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 07:02:57 -0400 Reply-To: mpalmer@together.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Palmer Organization: French Hill Apiaries Subject: overcrowded hive MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lance, try placing the third brood chamber on the bottom board. Gives a place for the field bees to hang out, and the bees use it for nectar storage instead of using the main brood nest. I think it a better plan so late in the season. Mike ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 21:32:47 +0900 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: beeswax into candles Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Todd Hardie wrote: >Could anyone give advice on how we could turn our bees' wax into >candles?. Is there a melter that efficiently and economically melts wax >for multiple pours into molds (which we have). > I use a dead refrigerator with a light bulb inserted to reliquefy honey and to melt wax. A standard kitchen refrigerator with a 100 watt light bulb takes 48 hours to melt a bucket of wax and you can dip this into a smaller container for pouring into moulds. Stainless steel is preferable for the container as other metals stain the wax - although for candles I do not find this a problem. Most refrigerators have a drainage hole in the bottom - this can be used to insert a power cord and the light bulb is mounted on a wood frame so that it does not touch anything. Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island J.H. & E. McAdam Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: j h & e mcadam Subject: Re: Making Candles Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I am looking for an internet site that can teach me how to harvest and >process bees wax and teach me how to make candles. Have any of you come >across such a site? Any reasonable size book store has a section on handcrafts and you will have a choice of books on candle making. Avoid the simplistic activity for children style and the dinner party conversation piece and pick a book or two that has practical instructions. A suitable book will include information on how to make your own moulds, or press shapes into wet sand but moulds can be purchased from apiarist supply companies or craft shops. I do not use any additives although I know some beekeepers who add fragrant oils to candles. It is a matter of experimentation. Candles are ridiculously simple to make - just remember to treat the inside of the mould so that it will come apart after the wax has set otherwise you will have to purchase new moulds. I use el cheapo vegetable oil and wipe round with an old cloth. After you have experimented with moulded candles you can proceed to dipped and other fancy styles. Wax is flammable - no direct heat. A hive will produce about 1 kg. of wax per season. If you are collecting your own you need to melt it and remove any honey and slum gum and then strain it through a fine cloth. The colour will depend on the pollen content and the age of the comb. Betty McAdam HOG BAY APIARY Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island J.H. & E. McAdam Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors - how does it effect the control of other hivepests MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If the hive beetle larva can fit through the holes of the open mesh floor, put a container under the hive filled with soapy water or other appropriate liquid and you have an instant larva killer. Or baby chicks in the box and they have chicken feed from the sky :). Bill T Bath, ME ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 00:14:15 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Mitchell Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors - how does it effect the control of other hive pests MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >>Nobody has mentioned the effect of an open mesh floor to a problem of the Small Hive beetle. It seems that the Small Hive Beetle larvae would be able to reach the ground more readily - but perhaps would not find a home in a well lit/ventilated hive. ... Any thoughts/observations/experiences? Would it be fair to theorize then that unenclosed mesh wire floors are acceptable for use in areas of the US where the small hive beetle has not yet arrived? Of course, like varroa, some day the small hive beetle may be prevalent throughout the US, thus rendering bees treated with this technique too vulnerable. Don't you really get the best of both worlds with wire mesh inserts placed over standard bottom boards -- the mites can't crawl back up to the bees, and you can treat for the small hive beetle underneath the mesh insert. The major drawbacks are: 1) You don't get the ventilation benefits of the open underside. 2) Some methods of feeding and medicating may not lend themselves well to colonies with wire mesh inserts over a standard bottom board -- such as the oft-recommended treatment of applying Terramycin mixed with powered sugar to the tops of frames in the spring or fall. All the resulting residue beneath the mesh insert may render this treatment too unhygenic. 3) The beekeeper will have a little more cleaning work to do at spring-cleaning time due to the build up of debris beneath the wire mesh insert. John ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 08:57:34 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Partin Subject: NORTH AND SOUTH In-Reply-To: j h & e mcadam 's message of Fri, 6 Aug 1999 21:32:47 +0900 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) I do not understand some of the things that I have read on the net. Some of the queen raisers from the North are saying that a queen raised in the North are better for Northern beekeepers than queens raised in the South. Now if I take a good brood stock from the North and take it to the south and raise queens off of them, that some how that changes the genetic make up of these bees so that they will not be any good in the North. Help me out here this is not like I learn it. BUD ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 09:56:09 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: NORTH AND SOUTH MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >I do not understand some of the things that I have read on the net. >Some of the queen raisers from the North are saying that a queen raised >in the North are better for Northern beekeepers than queens raised in >the South. Its not that its just raised in the north. The northern queen breeders are going to be selecting stock that does well in the cold, whether they want to or not! If stock does not winter well then when the breeder goes out to his hives in spring he will find an empty box with dead bees. The ones that do well will get to be queen and drone mothers. Issues such as how fast brood production is shut down once things start getting cold and how fast they pick up once spring arrives would be major players. In the south issues of short winters, with little or no brood shutdown would be factors. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 10:23:13 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "- Clark Chase , Zodiac Farms" Subject: Maxant Filler Tank MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Have need for servicable used Maxant Series 600-2 or 600-3 (200 or 300 lb) filler tank. Can anyone help? Thanks Clark Chase III, Zodiac Farms, 907 Horseneck Rd.,Westport, MA 02790 Tel. (508) 636-3798 ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 09:43:20 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: LJConnor@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Making Candles MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Books on Beeswax and Candles: Wicwas Press publishes the following two books on beeswax: Coggshall and Morse: Beeswax Production Harvesting, Processing and Products, 192 pages, softcover, $14.95 Robert Berthold (and others): Beeswax Crafting, hardcover, $19.95 (Currently being reprinted) We also sell a small booklet of interest Richard Taylor: Beeswax molding and Candle Making, 38 page booklet, $4.95 All three books take different approaches to the subject of beeswax. If you are serious about beeswax, you will eventually want all three. Overall, the Coggshall book has the best balance and general information, if you want only one book. If you are focused on Candles and Crafts with beeswax, get Berthold's book. Taylor's booklet is a chapter from his book How to Do It Book of Beekeeping (4th edition, $16.95) I have the first two in stock and can ship immediately. The Berthold book will be back in stock in September. Add $2.95 for the first book, $1 for each additional. Send your name, address, phone, email etc., credit card data or mail check to Wicwas Press PO Box 817, Cheshire CT 06410-0817 Phone 203 272 6574 // Fax 203 250 7575 // email ljconnor@aol.com Most of the major world bee supply companies stock these titles, so you might check locally, especially if you are outside of North America. But I ship anywhere postal delivery is made, and for the same charge for surface book rate! Such a deal!! I hope this helps. Thanks, Dr. Larry Connor ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 11:49:06 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Partin Subject: Re: NORTH AND SOUTH In-Reply-To: "Lipscomb, Al" 's message of Fri, 6 Aug 1999 09:56:09 -0400 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Are you saying that if I bought a good tested AI queen from a very good queen breeder from the NORTH and raised queens in the South from this queen that some how her offspring would not be as good as queens raised from her sisters bred to the same drones raised in the NORTH. I think it makes very little difference where the queen is raised in how she will perform. Her genetics and how well she was raised and bred is what makes the difference unless the genes change in that shipping cage. There are 100s of 1000s of hives that come SOUTH every year to requeen and make splits to get their nums rite. All I know of use queens that are raised in the SOUTH. Most all of these queen breeders rely on genetics from the North to raise all these `queens from. All of these beekeepers go North and make good crops on queens raised in the SOUTH. I agree that the genetics should come from the North but where they are raised makes little difference. BUD ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 14:20:44 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dennis Crutchfield Subject: Re: question on reqeening MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Let me get some advice please. I have a queenless hive, with plenty of bees. And a nuke made up with a young queen and some brood. I am wanting to introduce this with the older hive. Do I put the young queens hive body on the bottom or the top of the older hive? I will also be using the newspaper between the two. I have tried to requeen the large hive twice, there is no brood in it, but older bees. They have killed the first two queens. So I thought I would try the nuke this time. But first I am looking for some help. preacher ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 15:22:43 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Thom Bradley Subject: Re: NORTH AND SOUTH MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John Partin wrote: > > Are you saying that if I bought a good tested AI queen from a very good > queen breeder from the NORTH and raised queens in the South from this > queen that some how her offspring would not be as good as queens raised > from her sisters bred to the same drones raised in the NORTH. > BUD No Bud, you are close but not quite right. A queens genetics won't change no matter where they are raised, bred, live. The queen is the same. Moving a colony will not change their genetics or characteristics either. The part that will be different is the characteristics they are selected for, in a very specific sense. Let me expound on this a little. Broad selection universal characteristics could be, honey productive, good egg patterns, disease resistance, docility, etc. All of us want these and more. Year after year if we select for these traits properly most probably these traits will come out, whether we raise our queens in Maine or Eastern Virginia. Yet these queens may exhibit very different characteristics when examined closely. Let's examine why in an analysis of a single broad trait- good honey production. Obviously the Winters are cooler in Maine- so what, bees from Virginia will cluster just fine and stay alive. The difference is more subtle than this. Because of the different seasons, different crops will grow at different times. In Eastern Virginia we get our crop all at one time, in April and May, petering out in June, over and extracted by fourth of July. (Except for special and rare crops.) Anything else is gravy and winter buildup occurs in September and October with help from maple in Jan. Some years the dearth is so bad in July and August the drones are pushed out by 14 July. This means that in order to get a crop an egg must be laid @40 days prior to the beginning of the nectar flow in order to be field force for it. An egg laid on March 1 may not be ready if the flow starts a little early. Within 2 weeks of the begin of the flow the colonies will start swarm preps if not properly managed. What does this mean? The successful/productive colony in Eastern VA must be capable of very fast spring buildup followed by effective water gathering capabilities and not dwindle too quickly so as to be strong enough to gather sufficient stores to make it through the winter once the late August rains return. Many years the queen will continue to lay through the entire winter. I may be a little off here (but you'll get the point). Spring comes later in Maine and summers are cooler. Yeah, so (obvious)? Cranberry and Blueberry and other spring crops will be later in the year, the crop seasons will not have a 1 month gap and colony sizes will not have to be sustained as long. Perhaps rapid Spring buildup will still be important but switching to water gathering and efficient cooling will not carry the same weight in selection. Rapid dwindling of colony size may be more of an asset to preserve winter stores as non flying weather will onset months earlier in relation to the end of the first dearth than the colonies in Eastern VA and efficient cooling will not be as necessary. The comment refers more to active selection of queens "to" different climates than to selection of characteristics of queens "in" different climates. It is tough for a keeper in VA to select a colonies traits suitable for Maine. This does not mean it will a an inferior or superior queen. It means the selection of productive hives within selected traits may vary. The reason why queens from warmer areas are used is because queen rearing weather arrives earlier in the warmer climates and therefore queens are available first there. The brothers in the North are just a capable and vice versa, sometimes timing is paramount. Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA (imagine that, eastern VA) ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 20:38:29 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob Fanning Subject: Bee Kill. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a strange bee kill that seems to be affecting mostly young bees. I suspect it to be heat related. Is this likely? I have the bees in a direct sun location with no grass under them (red clay). The daytime, outside the hive, temperature has been above 95 degrees almost every day for approximately a month. Last week the temperature, outside the hive soared to 100+ on at least one occasion. I have the hives well ventilated. I suspect this may be adding to my problem as the bees can not adequately drop the temperature of circulating 100 + degree air. Today, I collected fresh killed or dying bees, and will submit them to a lab for analysis. I will advise results. I have seen extremely good problem solving results on this list thus the reason for the inquiry. Bob Fanning Huntsville, Al ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 21:03:53 -0400 Reply-To: dublgully@fuse.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Judy and Dave Subject: Question - Feeding Bees Comments: To: Bee-L@cnsibm.albany.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Have gotten a few calls today. There was an accident on the Interstate. Two of our beekeepers have bees on farms right next to the Interstate. The accident involved a truck carrying molasses. Feed grade molasses. The bees apparently are going after the molasses that was spilled. One beekeeper, an attorney, happened to be at the scene. :o). He got about 6 5-gallon cans of the stuff. Said he tasted it, and had to spit for 5 minutes. It tasted nasty but was real sweet. Wondering if he could use it to feed his bees. I said I had never heard of it being used as bee feed. Didn't think I would use it, but, since I didn't know for sure. I said I would ask the experts. Thanks. Judy in Kentucky, USA ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 22:45:15 -0700 Reply-To: JamesCBach Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: JamesCBach Subject: Molasses as feed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Don't feed it to bees. It leaves too much residue in the gut of the bee when used as winter feed. As such it can cause the worst case of dysentery you will ever want to see! James C. Bach jcbach@yvn.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 00:15:28 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vivian Donahue Subject: late summer laying Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Can anyone tell me if the queen sometimes stops laying late in the summer if there is not much of a honeyflow going on? Our weather is extremely dry lately and has been hot too. I just checked my hives and in one there is some sealed brood but no sign of eggs or larvae younger than about 6-8 days. In the other, there is only a small amount of larvae and I didn't see any eggs at all either, but there is lots of sealed brood. Neither hive has a lot of surplus honey, but both do have lots of pollen and a decent amount of nector. I've never been particularly good at finding the queen and have always relied on seeing eggs to check for the queen. Both of these hives seem to always have an attitude problem also, so I have been thinking of requeening anyway. I have apistan and menthol in currently. What would be your recommendations? Both hives are in a very shady woodsy setting. tia, Vivian ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 21:41:44 -0800 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tom Elliott Subject: Re: NORTH AND SOUTH MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In other words if you continue to buy your queen mothers from the North each year, you are okay. If you begin to use daughter queens for raising queens you will allow suvival of queens which would never make it in the north. Of course if you are doing AI forever it makes no difference (assuming you use proper drones). Thom Bradley wrote: > > John Partin wrote: > > > > Are you saying that if I bought a good tested AI queen from a very good > > queen breeder from the NORTH and raised queens in the South from this > > queen that some how her offspring would not be as good as queens raised > > from her sisters bred to the same drones raised in the NORTH. > > > BUD > No Bud, you are close but not quite right. -- "Test everything. Hold on to the good." (1 Thessalonians 5:21) Tom Elliott Chugiak, Alaska U.S.A. beeman@gci.net ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 08:15:23 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: late summer laying MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/7/99 6:59:07 AM EST, vdonahue@EARTHLINK.NET writes: > > Both hives are in a very shady woodsy setting. > Shade makes the bees testy if you can put them in sunshine your enjoyment will go up. Queens slack off during midsummer nectar dearth/drought. Requeen by making a nuc and combining is the best bet for a hobby keeper with a couple hives. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 07:38:36 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jim & Sue Maus Subject: Re: late summer laying MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Vivian Typically the dark races of bees stop raising brood when there is very little or no nectar flow. However Italians will keep brooding up many times. Jim ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 12:41:43 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: FAITHAB@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors - how does it effect the control of other hi... MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 08/06/1999 9:09:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JMitc1014@aol.com writes: << The beekeeper will have a little more cleaning work to do at spring-cleaning time due to the build up of debris beneath the wire mesh insert. >> Yes, but without the mesh debris would just accumulate on the landing board, wouldn't it. Faith Andrews Bedford ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 23:48:36 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Mitchell Subject: Re: Varroa mite population drop MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/4/99 6:16:13 AM, arl@Q7.NET writes: <> Where exactly are you located? Most of the United States have been suffering under a heat wave. Are there any studies or research to indicate a correlation between hot seasons and diminishing varroa population -- independent of peaks or dips in the bee population. What research I've read seems to show that varroa mite population crashes are directly related to the prevalence -- or lack thereof -- bee colonies, both feral and managed. John ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 09:03:50 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Pollinator@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Bee Kill. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/6/99 11:08:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, k4vb@HIWAAY.NET writes: << I have a strange bee kill that seems to be affecting mostly young bees. I suspect it to be heat related. Is this likely? I have the bees in a direct sun location with no grass under them (red clay). The daytime, outside the hive, temperature has been above 95 degrees almost every day for approximately a month. Last week the temperature, outside the hive soared to 100+ on at least one occasion. >> This kind of heat is extremely stressful to the bees. My queens have all but stopped laying, and there is some brood kill. I keep my bees in the shade as much as possible, and advise you to get them into shade, even if it means erecting it. We had a week in the high 90's followed by a week over 100; 104 last Saturday and Sunday. Thankfully, it's a bit cooler now. Because of the heat, I've not been able to work outside for long, but I am not happy with the condition of the bees I've seen. Hives that were excellent a month ago are down to an average of three frames of brood, with only a couple dozen cells with eggs. Queens and adults look okay, but brood looks spotty, quite a few cells of dead ones that are half chewed. Pollen stores are almost non-existant. Honey stores are adequate with most, but I plan to do a little feeding to see if it will stimulate the queen. The summer of '88 was just like this, and I wound up losing quite a few hives. So far I haven't lost hives, but I am worried that I will, if the heat continues. Also, check carefully for varroa. Sometimes this is a killer of brood and young bees. Especially check emerging bees for thread wings and small sickly-looking bees. Dave Green Hemingway, SC The Pollination Home Page http://www.pollinator.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 10:20:44 +0100 Reply-To: alan.riach@which.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Alan Riach Subject: 4 day old grubs MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good point of Allens-however I have seen books which simply say that cells sealed within 4 days MAY be too old to make good queens- I guess seeing a cell sealed at a 4 day inspection could mean that it was sealed 1 , 2 or 3 days after the initial manipulation , in which case the grub would not have had it's full exposure to the all important royal jelly. Alan Riach - Edinburgh ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 09:47:09 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Partin Subject: Re: NORTH AND SOUTH In-Reply-To: Tom Elliott 's message of Fri, 6 Aug 1999 21:41:44 -0800 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) I would hope that good queen producers look for good stock all the time. I would hope that good queen producers would also use AI as a very important and nesesary tool in their operation. If a queen procucer told me that he was not searching for good brood stock, all the time, from the area that I keep bees in and that he was not using AI to get this brood stock, then I do not think that I would use his queens. You do not know what you have if you do not use AI and you do not know how they will perform if not tested in the area where you beekeep. I still say it makes little difference where the queen is raised but it does make a lot of difference where the genes are from and how good of a job the queen raiser does. BUD ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 14:36:12 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Hank Mishima Subject: EPA to evaluate coumaphos Comments: To: BEE-L@cnsibm.albany.edu Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Hello All, I found this information in our local ag paper here in Oregon (Capital Press) and post FYI. Besides banning banning methyl parathion (Penncap-M) and azinphos methyl (Guthion), the EPA is evaluating 37 other major organophosphates currently in use "so we can be ready to take action by the end of next year to ensure our children are protected" according to EPA Administrator Carol Browner. The risk assessment and risk management proposal for coumaphos will be from April-June of 2000. The USDA and land-grant university faculty will also be involved as risk assessment reviewers.