From MAILER-DAEMON Fri Sep 17 12:52:25 1999 Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by luna.oit.unc.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA27372 for ; Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:23 -0400 (EDT) Received: from listserv.albany.edu (listserv.albany.edu [169.226.1.24]) by listserv.albany.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA11142 for ; Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:19 -0400 (EDT) Message-Id: <199909171652.MAA11142@listserv.albany.edu> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 12:52:19 -0400 From: "L-Soft list server at University at Albany (1.8d)" Subject: File: "BEE-L LOG9908C" To: adamf@METALAB.UNC.EDU Content-Length: 120780 Lines: 2760 ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 21:06:22 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bruce Guidotti Subject: Re: Open Mesh Floors - how does it effect the control of other hive pests MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My suggestion about this being too unhygenic is what started this string and the suggestions to leave the screen open. Wax moths populate the area between screen and bottom board because the bees can't get to them to kill larvae. My hive has big webs under the screen plus lots of debris plus the bees beard the front in the heat so I can't sweep the bottom board well. Bruce ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 00:42:16 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Moving a Swarm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My brother and I retrieved a swarm the other day. I remember one of the members of our local club saying that it is possible to move a swarm farther than 3 feet, but less that 3 miles without having to worry about losing bees, but he never said how long this effect lasted. Has anyone heard of this? If so, how long after you hive the swarm can they be moved? Thanks, Ian Watson St. Catharines, Ontario Canada ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 20:40:58 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Scott Moser Subject: Beekeeping Meeting Topics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings all, At our last county beekeeper meeting, our current President announced that he will be stepping down from the post this year, after being elected 5 straight years. The members present immediately suggested me as his successor. I still haven't made up my mind to run, but I need some help from all those on the list. I would like know what topics are covered in other club's meetings. We always have a wonderful program, but it seems to be the same topics covered every year, just different order. If anyone could suggest topics for meetings, I would appreciate it. Please email me with your suggestions. Thanks! Scott Moser ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 07:35:58 -0500 Reply-To: Charles Harper Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Charles Harper Subject: Re: Superbees Comments: To: "beekeeper@honeyhillfarm.com" In-Reply-To: <199908150047.UAA10292@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Sat, 14 Aug 1999 10:45:22 -0400, wtroyer wrote: >I've recently read that a new type of honeybee will be available early next year that is resistant to varroa mites. >Does anyone on this list have factual information on this subject? Is there such a bee? If so, will it be introduced >next year? Just the facts please. > >Wade The Russian honey bees are very resistant to varroa they will surive and prosper without treatment while the american bees die in the same yard. The American Honey Producers news leter has a short news piece on them. They have been released for reproduction by Steve Benard for breeder queens, a good friend of mine. I have about 80 of the Russians in my operation under test right now and will be switching to them as soon as possible. The pure Russians are very dark and some of the gentilest I have seen in a long time, some of the crosses can be testy, about 10 require smoke to work them of the 80 or so that I have. Charles Harper Harper's Honey farm Carencro LA. 900+ Hives ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 02:49:07 -0500 Reply-To: list@yazbek.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Baxter Yazbek Subject: Re: Superbees Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii wade, many thanks for the link to abc news, he in teh middle east we've had varroa sonce early 80's and they sure killed a lot of bees, until very recently, all "wild bees" in the region had dissapeared, the last 2 or 3 years we have been seeing swarms in the mountains, that is bees, living without any varroa treatment. however, scientifically, they do not refer to them as varroa resistant bees but rather as varroa tolerant bees, because a small number of varroa mites still exists on them. it's still a grey area, with the "russian bees" too, and we have to be very careful importing them because as they tolerate varroa and keep it's population at a low level in the hives, other bee races in the region will suffer a lot from the constant infestation of mites all year round. what do u think? baxter ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 09:51:31 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Scott Mitchell Subject: Beekeeping mettings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Scott and Grettings to all. Scot the Bee Magazines Do a good series of every event in Beekeeping, But they seem to be late by about 6 weeks for the southern and western 1/2 of the US. Trying to have discussions ahead of each event ie.....Swarming.....Medicating....would be a great advantage to the beeginners if not for all. Thanks just One Beekeepers view. Scott Mitchell smitch@totalaccess.net ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 16:49:26 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Bee Genetics Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All Can anybody recommend study material on bee genetics as I am anxious to learn which parent supplies the following traits to the offspring. 1. Foraging Ability. 2. Docility 3. Steadiness On Comb 4. Compactness Of Brood, Absence Of Empty Cells 5. Pollen Storage (Pollen Packed Over, Around And Under The Broodnest) 6. Comb Building (Speed In Occupying Supers, Drawing Foundation, Honey Storage And Quality Of Comb Capping) I shall be most grateful for any assistance. Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park, Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland Tel + 353 1 289 5269 Fax + 353 1 289 99 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 12:17:53 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Partin Subject: Re: Bee Genetics In-Reply-To: Computer Software Solutions Ltd 's message of Sun, 15 Aug 1999 16:49:26 +0100 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) There are very few sex linked traits and I do not think that any that you named are. BUD ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 21:42:14 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Rich Subject: Re: No-split hive management. Wade said . . . Currently, I do no splits. Instead, I let those hives that have excess population swarm naturally. I then collect the swarms as the sole means of hive increase. . . . The downside is the intense labor needed to collect and hive up the swarms especially in mid May. " A second serious consideration here is the ability to get the swarms if bees are not close to your work - unless of course, you are retired! This is the way that my neighbor does his bees, but encourages me not to do so until I have the ability to be at home more of the time. He enjoys retirement - and catching swarms is a welcomed change of pace to his relaxed lifestyle - though this spring he complained that they were going to work him to death. Tim Rich Western North Carolina, USA ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 21:27:46 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Becky or Al S Boehm Subject: wax moths Hello Bee Friends May I pose a Question? I have a hive with 2 deep bodies that i combined with another hive last week. The bees all went down into the other hive with no fuss overnight and left thier hives empty which i promptly removed. then it struck, that big dumb thing that people do- I got busy and forgot to take the empty hive off the truck and today it has a light infestation of moth larve in it. And now for the question, has anyone successfully used the bees themselves to clean up the moth larve? Is it possible to say put a strong hive over these brood boxes and let the bees clean it up. I know they will repair the comb damage from past experience, I guess also that I may be wishing for too much from all my friends in the hives. Any responces on this idea will be most welcome. Al Boehm Columbus North Carolina ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 06:01:47 -0400 Reply-To: String & Linda Monteith Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: String & Linda Monteith Subject: Re: Bee Keeping Clip Art MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone have any leads on where to download some free clip art related >to beekeeping? Have you tried a search on dogpile.com ? I came up with some hits, but don't have the time to search them. Linda in Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 10:53:23 -0500 Reply-To: lithar@midwest.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: AL Subject: Re: Moving a Swarm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ian Watson wrote: > > My brother and I retrieved a swarm the other day. I remember one > of the members of our local club saying that it is possible to move > a swarm farther than 3 feet, but less that 3 miles without having to > worry about losing bees, but he never said how long this effect lasted. > Has anyone heard of this? If so, how long after you hive the swarm > can they be moved? You seem to have your 'greater than' and 'less than' reversed. It is written - dunno where, lots of places I think - that you can move the hive less than 3' or more than 3 miles without losing bees. From my limited experience, I'd have to say that rule of thumb is pretty reliable. Remember to move the hive when *all* of the bees are inside otherwise you'll find field bees returning to the original site. If you are trying to move the hive a short distance, say from one corner of your property to the other, you might try nightly moves of < 3'. If you are trying to move them down the road a bit, you may need to move the hive several miles (>3mi) away first, then bring them back to the desired location after a couple of weeks. AL ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 08:15:42 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeeCrofter@AOL.COM Subject: Re: first time beekeeper MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/14/99 7:51:21 PM EST, WGMiller@aol.com writes: > Finding brood below the frame bottom bars is perfectly normal, especially if > the bees are in a nectar flow. These are generally drones, and as such > scraping them off will do no harm. Some folks scrape them off some folks leave them the difference is minor - the important thing is to look them over carefully for you can detect varroa mites easily against the white bodies of drone brood. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 10:53:32 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: honey.road@SYMPATICO.CA Organization: My Beekeeping Homepage - http://www3.sympatico.ca/honey.road Subject: Re: Bee Keeping Clip Art Comments: To: adameden@IPA.NET MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This link has what you are looking for. http://nhb.org/download/clipart/index.html Al B. R & S Adams wrote: > Does anyone have any leads on where to download some free clip art related > to beekeeping? I've found bees and flowers, but not skeps or hives. > > Thanks, S. Adams ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 18:43:46 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Corvi Two-Nine Subject: Re: Bee Keeping Clip Art MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello - The National Honey Board has some nice black and white clipart at http://www.nhb.org/download/clipart/index.html Laura corvi29@zeebyrd.com ----- Original Message ----- From: R & S Adams To: Sent: Saturday, August 14, 1999 5:00 PM Subject: Bee Keeping Clip Art > Does anyone have any leads on where to download some free clip art related > to beekeeping? I've found bees and flowers, but not skeps or hives. > > Thanks, S. Adams > ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 19:30:02 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dave Oakes Subject: Glass containers from Comments: To: bee-l@uacsc2.albany.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The question I have is, what is the address of the Arkansas Glass Container Corp? Thanks, Dave in Indiana ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 05:34:17 -0400 Reply-To: String & Linda Monteith Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: String & Linda Monteith Subject: Re: BEE SOUND MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ><< can bees detect a frequency? > > could a sound repell a be away ? a frequency? A neighbor left me a message to come get a swarm that had settled in a metal container in his garage, where he was repairing a lawnmower. He wasn't afraid of the bees, but didn't want them hurt. Two hours later, after the lawnmower had been fixed & I arrived there - the bees were gone. Not sure if it was the sound, or possibly the exhaust from the old mower. Linda in Ohio. ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 23:28:32 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Bee Genetics Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All >1. Foraging Ability. >2. Docility >3. Steadiness On Comb >4. Compactness Of Brood, Absence Of Empty Cells >5. Pollen Storage (Pollen Packed Over, Around And Under The Broodnest) >6. Comb Building (Speed In Occupying Supers, Drawing Foundation, Honey Storage And Quality Of Comb Capping I have learned that the Docility trait is obtained from the drone. Is this correct? Any idea on the others? Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park, Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland Tel + 353 1 289 5269 Fax + 353 1 289 99 ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 22:42:46 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Pollinator@AOL.COM Subject: Re: wax moths MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/15/99 7:20:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Al Boehm, beckwards@JUNO.COM writes: << And now for the question, has anyone successfully used the bees themselves to clean up the moth larve? Is it possible to say put a strong hive over these brood boxes and let the bees clean it up. I know they will repair the comb damage from past experience, I guess also that I may be wishing for too much from all my friends in the hives. Any responces on this idea will be most welcome. >> I do it all the time. I don't know if it makes a lot of difference, but I take each frame that has any webbing, clean it off by hand a bit, so the bees don't get tangled in it. Then I rap on it a few times with a hive tool, or rap the frame on the truck bed. The wax worms that are drummed out will fall off the frame, and this gets rid of quite a few (I give them to my friends who have time to fish). I figure that gives the bees less work to do. Otherwise, make sure it's a strong hive - good housekeepers....a weak hive in hot weather will get overwhelmed and you'll lose a hive. Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://www.pollinator.com The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles): http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 22:10:52 -0500 Reply-To: boby@lakecountry.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob Young Subject: Re: Beekeeping Meeting Topics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott: I am the program manager for the East Texas Beekeepers Assn. here in Tyler, Tx. and I know the problems you are having. We are 90 miles from Dallas, which makes it hard to get speakers on a weeknight other than locals. I got a friend who is a horticulturist to give a talk on bee plants. Also got a large commercial beekeeper from a neighboring state to discuss his operation and how it differed from local conditions. Next month a member is going to discuss his homemade beevac and I will give a show-and-tell on a top bar hive I made. Seems like hands on shows involving equipment goes over real well. Our club seems to always have a lot of new people who get a lot out of the basics such as how to build a hive body or frame. Every other month for the last hour we have a raffle and an auction for the clubs benefit of various things brought by members. We also reserve a part of every program for the more experienced to tell what is going on with the bees and what should be done at this time of the year, i.e. feeding, medicating, etc. Hope this helps, good luck. To tell the truth, I could use some new ideas myself! Bob Young Lindale,TX ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 21:44:12 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "The Burlingames(" Subject: Re: BEE-L Digest - 13 Aug 1999 to 14 Aug 1999 (#1999-142) HI Beefriends, Just wanted to express my appreciation to this list for all the help that various ones have given me in response to my many questions as a new beekeeper. Ken Adney responded to one of my first posts and gave me the name of a couple not too far away from us. They agreed to loan me their extractor....without ever having met me, and we just finished extracting 40 quarts of honey..from what started out as three hives this spring. We are so appreciative of everyone's help. My neighbor and I kind of work together as we learn about bees. He's a single hermit type of person and thought it best if I did his honey...figured no one would want to buy honey out of his kitchen...so he "let" me uncap and extract all his honey. It has been a fun job! Very Sticky!! We are hoping to get at least another 2 maybe 3or 4 supers off our hives since they are in a nectar flow from a field of clover as well as fireweed which is in bloom... One question now...what do we do with the cappings that we have strained..are these good for beeswax candles and how do you get the stickiness out of them? Does melting them over hot water like you do any wax do the job? Thanks again for all your help and contacts! Meri Burlingame Washington State Meri Burlingame: Moderator The Apostolic Prophetic List ap@myhome.net ICQ#43228319 The Apostolic Prophetic Resource Page http://landru.myhome.net/cmjhburl/Resource.html NEW PAGE: +++ THE BURLINGAME BEE PAGE http://landru.myhome.net/cmjhburl/bees.html ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 23:38:44 -0400 Reply-To: String & Linda Monteith Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: String & Linda Monteith Subject: Phermones & No-split hive management. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Wade said . . . > >Currently, I do no splits. Instead, I let those hives that have excess >population swarm naturally. I then collect the swarms as the sole means >of hive increase Would it be possible to set up nucs with those phermones (sold by bee suppliers) inside to lure the swarm in so you wouldn't have to retrieve them? I have heard that the phermones work great if you put two in a nuc. Anyone have experience with them? Linda in Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 21:06:19 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bruce Guidotti Subject: Re: late summer laying MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Isn't it a little early to be medicating in Virginia? I live in CT and was planning to do so the end of August?\\ In your opinion, should I extract now and be medicating now? Bruce ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 22:52:13 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Pollinator@AOL.COM Subject: Re: No-split hive management. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/15/99 7:03:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time, tegimr@ABTS.NET writes: << Currently, I do no splits. Instead, I let those hives that have excess population swarm naturally. I then collect the swarms as the sole means of hive increase. . . . The downside is the intense labor needed to collect and hive up the swarms especially in mid May. " >> This is the old fashioned way, but I hate to see beekeepers doing it today. You can make yourself very unpopular in a community, if you let your bees swarm freely. All of us beekeepers tend to get blamed for the swarm problems. Furthermore, you will lose some swarms. After feeding and medicating, all the care you've put into them, you lose half - the best half actually. It's about like raising cattle, and letting your calves run off and get lost in the woods. With good management, most swarms can be prevented, and the beekeepers will come out ahead. Please put a little effort into learning swarm management. I think you are defining the difference between a bee haver/robber, and a bee keeper. Dave Green Hemingway, SC USA The Pollination Home Page: http://www.pollinator.com The Pollination Scene: http://users.aol.com/pollinator/polpage1.html Jan's Sweetness and Light Shop (Varietal Honeys and Beeswax Candles): http://users.aol.com/SweetnessL/sweetlit.htm ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 07:57:53 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bruce Guidotti Subject: Re: Beekeeping Meeting Topics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott Moser's requests for bee meeting topics: Our club collects dues plus sells honey plus has a monthly auction etc. We use the money to get really good top notch speakers at the meetings. Summataro, Shimanuki, and so on. It's great. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 08:03:24 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Comments: SoVerNet Verification (on garnet.sover.net) sover.net from arc1a122.burl.sover.net [207.136.201.250] 207.136.201.250 Mon, 16 Aug 1999 08:01:44 -0400 (EDT) From: "Todd D. Hardie" Organization: Honey Gardens Apiaries Subject: Re: Glass containers from MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dave Oakes wrote: > The question I have is, what is the address of the Arkansas Glass Container > Corp? > Thanks, > Dave in Indiana Dave, Arkansas Glass Container, 408 North Culberhouse St., Jonesboro, AK 72401. tel. 1-800-527-4527. I have talked to Nancy. Through Andler in western MA, we buy their 24 oz. mustard jars for our 2 lb. raw honey. Todd Hardie Honey Gardens Apiaries 51 So. Maple St. Vergennes, VT 05491 ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 09:16:08 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: Bee Genetics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >I have learned that the Docility trait is obtained from the drone. Bee breeding is a little strange but from what I have been reading in the latest editon of the "hive and the honeybee" would seem to suggest that the transmission of any genetic trait can come from both sides. In bee genetics the male is, in most cases, a transport of his mothers full genetic pattern. In other words you are directly crossing two queens into the new offspring. ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 07:41:17 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: BEE SOUND Comments: To: String & Linda Monteith In-Reply-To: <199908161112.HAA10030@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > A neighbor left me a message to come get a swarm ... Two hours later, > ... the bees were gone. Swarms often break up and leave for no external reason. They find they no longer have a queen or something else changes their 'mind'. allen ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 09:02:00 -0500 Reply-To: cmichel@semo.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Chris Michel Organization: Snap Shot Subject: Honey Label? MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am looking for the regulations on labels. Can I label my honey, "By volume, One Quart" Instead of the weight? Thanks, M. Chris Michel Michel Family Apiaries Poplar Bluff, MO USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 11:11:50 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Beekeeping Meeting Topics In-Reply-To: <199908161451.KAA15117@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > This message was originally submitted by cd_rasmussen@YAHOO.COM to the BEE-L > list at LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to remove excessive quotes of previously > posted material. > > ----------------- Original message (ID=7B52F6E8) (47 lines) > Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 07:50:12 -0700 (PDT) > From: CD Rasmussen > Subject: Re: Beekeeping Meeting Topics > To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology > > Check out the clubs in > http://dmoz.org/Science/Agriculture/Beekeeping/Associations/ > You should find some notes on the goals, issues, meeting > topics of these organizations. > > Thanks, > Constantine ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 12:04:50 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Sterrett Subject: Re: What to do with Cappings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > One question now...what do we do with the cappings that we have > strained..are these good for beeswax candles and how do you get > the stickiness out of them? Does melting them over hot water like > you do any wax do the job? > Meri, Capping wax is more valuable pound for pound than beeswax. In theory, the cappings can be processed and sold to be used in candle-making and other art work. Or the beekeeper can make candles and other beeswax goodies from the wax. In practice, the cappings are a mess and take much longer to deal with than extracted honey. Gooey cappings can be stored in a freezer indefinitely (in a plastic bag inside a cardboard box.) How are the cappings separated from the honey? How are they separated in an economical way? How are they separated in an economical way that recovers as much honey as possible from them? (Cappings melters are available that use heat to separate the wax from the honey.) Cappings can be cleaned by soaking in water or the wax can be separated by heating the cappings over water. Keep the wax away from open flame. Or wax and cappings can be separated by melting the cappings, stuffed into nylon stockings, in a solar wax melter. The solar wax melter can be designed to allow the melting wax to drip into a pan, producing a block of wax that floats on and hardens above a layer of honey. The wax can be melted again and again in an attempt to clean it further. For instance, the wax can be put into artfully-cut, gallon plastic milk jugs, melted in the solar wax melter, and the clean wax at the top of the wax puddle can be poured into disposable cups. Perhaps I am not the only beekeeper who always has some wax that needs further processing. Tim -- Tim Sterrett sterrett@voicenet.com (southeastern) Pennsylvania, USA 40.0 N 75.5 W ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 08:23:00 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Partin Subject: Re: Bee Genetics In-Reply-To: Computer Software Solutions Ltd 's message of Sun, 15 Aug 1999 23:28:32 +0100 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) I will try to explain. In order for the drone to be the one who passes it on the gene would have to be located on the Y chromosome. Females do not have a Y chromosome. That would make all females mean, I think. There are ways for a trait to be sex linked but it is not very common. I would think The traits you are talking about would involve more than one gene. BUD ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 16:23:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ian Watson Subject: Re: Moving a Swarm MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > You seem to have your 'greater than' and 'less than' reversed. It is > written - dunno where, lots of places I think - that you can move the > hive less than 3' or more than 3 miles without losing bees. Yes, I wrote that email late an night and realized the error after sending it. But what I was asking was whether there was any difference in be able to move a freshly hived SWARM as opposed to an established colony, as I had heard. And if so, how long does this phenomenon last. Ian Watson ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 18:27:45 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Scott Moser Subject: Meeting Topics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings all, Wow, thanks for all the ideas. I was overwhelmed by the response. Most of the ideas we already do, but I did glean a couple of ideas from other clubs too. I did want to pass one thing our club does along to the group. We work in conjunction with our local Community College, and they offer a night adult education class entitled "Beginning Beekeeping" The class is taught by volunteers from the club, and is held 4 Tuesday evenings from 7-9 PM. The great thing is, the money that is paid to the instructor ($80.00 +$9.00/book) goes directly to the club. We do this 2 times a year, fall and spring. We have gained many new club members through this. The club then offers an advanced course on Saturday in May. Cost per person for that is $20.00. We always have a great turn out for that as well. Hope another club may be able to use this same thing to help bring in a little extra cash. Good luck, and thanks. Scott Moser ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 10:36:18 GMT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert Butcher Organization: Dundee University Subject: Re: Bee Genetics In-Reply-To: In order for the drone to be the one who passes > it on the gene would have to be located on the Y chromosome. Females do > not have a Y chromosome. That would make all females mean, I think. Indeed there is no evidence for any sex chromosomes in Hymenoptera. that is sex specific *nuclear* DNA inheritance. Males simply contain one set (haploid) of the mothers double (diploid) nuclear DNA compliment. That is not to say that sons are all comprised of only two clones, because recombination will shuffle the alleles around. There are ways for a trait to be sex linked but it is not very common. Yup, the most likley ways are by sex specific imprinting (so both sexes inherit the maternal and paternal derived copy of the gene but only one is active, the other is silenced) and sex specific gene expression, although these are not mutualy exclusive of course.. The former is yet to be established, although it certainly offers a good and well supported model for sex determination in some hymenoptera species, the later is of course known. Rob Robert Butcher, Evolutionary and Ecological Entomology Unit, Department of Biological Sciences, Dundee University, Dundee, DD1 4HN, Tayside, Scotland, UK. Work Phone:- 01382-344291 (Office), 01382-344756 (Lab). Fax:- 01382-344864 e-mail:- r.d.j.butcher@dundee.ac.uk ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 14:57:51 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dennis Crutchfield Subject: a little red dot Comments: To: bee-line MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hey beekeeps, I have found a little red dot ,on top of the thorax of some of my bees. = Does anyone have any idea what it is. Doesnt seem to effect them, but = wondering what it might be. thanks preacher p.s. I guess that is what you call the thorax. It is the place most = queens are painted on.:) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 19:15:04 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Partin Subject: Re: Bee Genetics In-Reply-To: "Lipscomb, Al" 's message of Mon, 16 Aug 1999 09:16:08 -0400 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) I do not think that the drone can carry a full genetic pattern of the queen because a queen has a full set of paired cromosomes and the drone has ony one set or haploid number of crom. A drone can display a trait from his grandfather that his mother did not. Some of you guys out there that write far better than I please explain this process where most people can undrstand it. I do believe that this is very very important for most beekeepers to understand. This is very basic in understanding beekeeping. BUD ` ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 20:35:46 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Chris Wave Subject: Re: moving to Green County Wisconsin, USA MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any beekeepers in the Monroe area? I am a new beekeeper and looking for area meetings. Thanks, Chris ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 00:54:20 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: What to do with Cappings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tim Sterrett wrote: > In practice, the cappings are a mess and take much longer to deal > with than extracted honey. > ... > How are they separated in an economical way that recovers as much > honey as possible from them? > (Cappings melters are available that use heat to separate the wax > from the honey.) > Cappings can be cleaned by soaking in water or the wax can be > separated by heating the cappings over water. Keep the wax away from > open flame. I agree for sure with the first statement here. I have a Better Way cappings melter, but am always fearful that the intense heat from the electric element (3000 watts) might start a fire. I also have soaked cappings in water, after letting the honey drip, to wash out excess honey, but know that this is very wasteful. It does make it easier however when the cappings are melted. This year I called my local honey processor, Groeb Farms in Onsted, Michigan. I found that they will render cappings for a small charge of $30, which will usually be more than covered by sale of the beeswax and honey recovered. (They will buy it, or let the customer pick it up for sale elsewhere.) This I feel will be very much worth it, since I have a lot of cappings and hate the mess involved. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:38:16 -0400 Reply-To: keastman@access995.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: keastman Subject: Re: No-split hive management. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Currently, I do no splits. Instead, I let those hives that have excess population swarm naturally. I then collect the swarms as the sole means of hive increase. . . . The downside is the intense labor needed to collect and hive up the swarms especially in mid May. The swarms that you do not catch may come back to haunt you as they will take some Varroa mites with them. In a period of time 6 months to a year without treatment this swarm will probably die out from Varroa and your colonies will rob out this swarm and carry home a large resevoir of Varroa mites. I have seen strong colonies at the beginning of July (Apistan strips just removed) dead in October. The bottom board turned red from Varroa mites. This case was due to bee havers not medicating and colonies in the area crashing. The same results could happen with a failing swarm. Ken Eastman Monaca, PA ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 20:15:14 -0700 Reply-To: JamesCBach Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: JamesCBach Subject: Honey Label MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit M. Chris Michel of MO is looking for regulations on labels: 1. Contact your state department of agriculture, food inspection program, for copies of state statute and regulations. 2. Contact the National Honey Board. They have literature on honey labels. 3. Use a commercially packed and labeled jar as an example of label content. 4. Here in WA you can sell honey by volume (qt., gal.) as long as the container is always filled to the same point above the neck of the jar. It must be priced and sold as per quart or gallon not by weight. Inspectors look for uniformity of fill, cleanliness of product, and other label information. A quart and gallon of honey can also be sold by weight as long as the weight is shown on the label and actual net weight meets or exceeds what is printed on the label. James C. Bach jbach@agr.wa.gov jcbach@yvn.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 00:24:12 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Ted Fischer Subject: Re: Bee Genetics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John Partin wrote: > I will try to explain. In order for the drone to be the one who passes > it on the gene would have to be located on the Y chromosome. Females do > not have a Y chromosome. While this is true in vertebrates and perhaps other species, I don't believe it holds true for the honey bee. In bees, the drones are all copies of one half the queen's chromosomes since they arise from unfertilized eggs. Therefore there can be no Y chromosome here. Ted Fischer Dexter, Michigan USA ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 00:27:35 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vivian Donahue Subject: What to do with Cappings Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" What I do to clean up my cappings is put them out for the bees to clean up. It is loads of fun to watch them bury themselves down in that pile of cappings. They will chew and lick them absolutely clean. I am just a hobbiest, and I usually uncap my frames into a cheesecloth lined stainless steel container. I bag up the cappings, let them drip over a day or two, even squeezing them out to get as much of the liquid out as possible, then set it in a large bowl and set it down about 10 feet from my hives. I do the same with all my extracting equipment when I am done. Not a drop of liquid gold is wasted. I usually place a few branches in the extractor for the bees who get "coated and stuck" to pull themselves out. Loads of fun to watch. Then I pack it in large paper cups and freeze for a couple days, then seal it into zplock plastic bags until I have enough to trade with my friendly supplier for something else I need. bee happy everyone, Vivian > One question now...what do we do with the cappings that we have > strained..are these good for beeswax candles and how do you get > the stickiness out of them? Does melting them over hot water like > you do any wax do the job? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 09:27:27 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: Bee Genetics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >In bee genetics the male is, in most cases, a transport of his mothers full >genetic pattern. In other words you are directly crossing two queens into >the new offspring. I think I oversimplified the process to the point where the statement became inaccurate. ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 08:28:55 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Robert J. Cessac" Subject: Re: a little red dot Comments: To: Dennis Crutchfield MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Denis, you could be looking at varroa. Go to http://maarec.cas.psu.edu/ and look at their slide set for good pictures on varroa. If this is what it is, you should treat ASAP. If it is varroa, your hive will calapse soon if not treated. Hopes this helps. Bob Dennis Crutchfield wrote: > Hey beekeeps, > I have found a little red dot ,on top of the thorax of some of my bees. = > Does anyone have any idea what it is. Doesnt seem to effect them, but = > wondering what it might be. > thanks > preacher > p.s. I guess that is what you call the thorax. It is the place most = > queens are painted on.:) ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:34:57 -0600 Reply-To: gerba@azstarnet.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Peggy Gerba Subject: Re: Bee Genetics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John Partin wrote: > I will try to explain. In order for the drone to be the one who passes > it on the gene would have to be located on the Y chromosome. Females do > not have a Y chromosome. That would make all females mean, I think. > There are ways for a trait to be sex linked but it is not very common. > I would think The traits you are talking about would involve more than > one gene. > BUD Male bees don't have a y chromosome. Males are produced from unfertilized eggs(haploid ). Females are produced from fertilized eggs (diploid). Peggy ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 16:26:29 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Max Watkins Subject: Re: a little red dot In-Reply-To: <199908171158.HAA09189@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit If you see similar red dots on the hive floor as well as on your bees and if they move at all, it could be varroa mite, a parasite of honeybees, or maybe Braula caeca, a bee louse. If it's confirmed as varroa and there are lots of them, you should treat the colony with a (legal, registered) acaricide and/or use biomechanical methods of disinfestation. You'll get lots of good advice on this from the List. Regards, Max Dr Max Watkins Vita (Europe) Limited Tel 44 (0) 1256 473177 Brook House, Alençon Link, Fax 44 (0) 1256 473179 Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 7RD, UK ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 13:27:36 -0300 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Farrington/Bequia Canvas Subject: a little red dot Comments: To: Bee-L submissions MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello all; I too have seen a little red dot on only two of my bees on the thorax as = Dennis describes. This dot is bright red, almost crimson. I thought = after seeing it the first time that I was seeing things, but I saw it on = a second bee a month or so later. I have also thought that perhaps I am seeing pollen baskets with red = pollen - is there red pollen? - and was mistaking these pollen baskets = for thorax spots. I visited http://maarec.cas.psu.edu a wonderful = site. The mite photos show a much duller red than what I saw and since = I have only seen two spots over the course of several monthsI don't = think it could be the mite, although that is a good suggestion. The = hives all look healthy. Anybody have any other thoughts? Bob in Bequia beqcan@caribsurf.com ========================================================================= Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 23:08:42 +0100 Reply-To: John Burgess Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Burgess Subject: Re: Moving a Swarm Comments: To: lithar@midwest.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > You seem to have your 'greater than' and 'less than' reversed. It is > written - dunno where, lots of places I think - that you can move the > hive less than 3' or more than 3 miles without losing bees. From my > limited experience, I'd have to say that rule of thumb is pretty > reliable. Al, your point is quite correct for an established colony, but I think that Ian Watson's original point referred to a newly hived swarm, which can be moved shorter distances than 3miles for a limited period, before the bees become orientated to their surroundings. I would expect that, as for all things to do with bees, there is no simple answer. Shorter distances, e.g. 6 feet, may be a problem by the next day. It may take a week for the foragers to reach out to 2 miles, and obviously the weather will be an important factor. This is only theorising; does anyone have practical experience to share? John Burgess, Editor Gwenynwyr Cymru/The Welsh Beekeeper pencaemawr@bigfoot.com ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 10:09:03 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Edwards Subject: Re: Phermones & No-split hive management. Comments: To: String & Linda Monteith MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit String & Linda Monteith wrote: > Would it be possible to set up nucs with those phermones (sold by bee > suppliers) inside to lure the swarm in so you wouldn't have to retrieve > them? I have heard that the phermones work great if you put two in a nuc. > Anyone have experience with them? Linda in Ohio Plenty of experience, plenty of undiscovered uses yet. They (or a poor substitute) are commonly used for filling hives in Mexico on a yearly or as-needed basis. In South Africa, Garth doesn't even need the pheromone. John Edwards, USDA, Tucson, Arizona ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 13:56:58 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Red spot on bees' thorax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT I think the diagnosis of varroa for what was described may be too hasty. My initial call was that it may be similar to the discussion of the white spot on bees' thorax attributed to pollen which the bees are not able to wipe off. Don't recall when the discussion took place and have not had the time to search the archives. The quick shooting diagnosis of varroa overlooks the fact that varroa are most often found between that plates of bees' abdomens. I'm not ruling out varroa, but I think the diagnosis is too quick, too easy for a condition that was not well described. What say you preacher man? ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 14:37:30 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Tim Sterrett Subject: Re: What to do with Cappings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Vivian Donahue wrote: > > What I do to clean up my cappings is put them out for the bees to clean up. ***************** This may encourage frantic bees to bother human neighbors and to rob out less strong bee colonies. I have put cappings in an empty hive body on top of an inner cover and under an outer cover for a hive to sort through. The hive has to be relatively well sealed at the top so the bees can defend their home from bees that will enter to get at the cappings and then rob out the colony. Bees given cappings may draw out comb in the empty hive body and this makes a bigger problem for the beekeeper. Tim -- Tim Sterrett sterrett@voicenet.com (southeastern) Pennsylvania, USA 40.0 N 75.5 W ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 20:48:29 -0500 Reply-To: boby@lakecountry.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bob Young Subject: Re: what to do with cappings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I built myself a solar wax melter. There are plans all over the net for them. When the wax melts into the bottom pan, it separates from whatever honey is left. As it cools, it will solidify into a cake which floats on the honey. The wax appears to get some bleaching from the sun in the process. Great piece of equipment that works for free everyday the sun shines. Bob Young Lindale,TX ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 17:13:19 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: a little red dot MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >I too have seen a little red dot on only two of my bees on the thorax as = >Dennis describes. This dot is bright red, almost crimson. I thought = >after seeing it the first time that I was seeing things, but I saw it on = >a second bee a month or so later. Don't want to just add a "me too" here but I saw a few bees this weekend with the red dot in question. Just to make sure it was not Varroa. I have seen a number of bees coming in with pollen that matches the color and would guess that the area is one where the bee cannot groom the substance off. When I first saw the dot I thought I was seeing a marked queen on the landing board. After a closer look I could see that the bee was a worker. A second marked bee landed a few seconds later. Since I did not have my veil, I was a bit unwilling to stick my head much closer :) ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 00:02:18 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: HStarJE@AOL.COM Subject: Heat and Varroa MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/14/99 10:03:24 PM Mountain Daylight Time, Wolfgang writes: > The best suited method for their rural area seemed > to be the heat treatment. Yes, many beekeepers in the former USSR are apparently returning to this heat treatment method after years of treating for Varroa chemically. Cesar Flores Colorado USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 01:00:32 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vivian Donahue Subject: What to do with Cappings Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Tim, it is what I have done for about 5 years, and I haven't had any trouble like that. Aamof, since my bees are for my "entertainment", I sometimes stand over them (no veil) and will use twigs to lift out "stuck" bees during cleanup duty. I live in a very urban area. (Neighbors garden is 5 feet from my hives.) Others might have different experiences, or maybe I've been lucky, but I've had no trouble, and no honey is wasted. I do put the extracted supers back on the hives for cleanup, but more for efficiency for the bees and to make sure the hive I want the most return to gets it. Of course, hives being 15-20 feet from my back door gives me more monitoring ability than most beekeepers may have. In addition, for the last few years as a routine matter, I staple wire across half the entrance to my hives during any long lulls in honey flows to help hives defend their entrance without inhibiting air flow. It seems to really cut down on any robbing activity. There are a number of yellow jacket colonys around here every year, and this seems to help the bees cope. Vivian > This may encourage frantic bees to bother human neighbors and to rob >out less strong bee colonies. >Tim Sterrett >Vivian Donahue wrote: >> What I do to clean up my cappings is put them out for the bees to clean up. ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 04:50:13 -0400 Reply-To: String & Linda Monteith Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: String & Linda Monteith Subject: Re: What to do with Cappings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >What I do to clean up my cappings is put them out for the bees to clean up. Do you do this in the fall too? I tried this, but any time after the first of August in Ohio, it attracts too many yellow jackets. The yellow jackets then try to get into the hives. Linda ========================================================================= Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 20:07:46 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Computer Software Solutions Ltd Subject: Moving a Swarm Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All I would think that as soon as the newly hived swarm accepted their new hive and began marking it, that the '3 feet 3 miles' rule would apply. I have observed bees making what appeared to me to be orientation flights a short time after being hived. Sincerely Tom Barrett 49 South Park, Foxrock Dublin 18 Ireland Tel + 353 1 289 5269 Fax + 353 1 289 99 ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 03:51:37 -0600 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Allen Dick Subject: Re: Heat and Varroa In-Reply-To: <199908180938.FAA06604@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > The best suited method for their rural area seemed > > to be the heat treatment. > > Yes, many beekeepers in the former USSR are apparently returning to this heat > treatment method after years of treating for Varroa chemically. I wonder why? ...And I wonder about the miracle bees imported from Russia to the USA if the people in the country of origin are having to treat. And, if -- as I understand the treatment takes place in winter (or maybe late fall) -- I would think that it would be sufficiently disruptive that considerably increased winter loss would result in a climate such as ours. I doubt that we could do such a thing here and not lose a large percentage of hives as a result. allen ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:24:20 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: BEE-L Archives on the web! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT An unexpected and newly implemented result of migrating BEE-L to a Unix paltform is web searchable archives! I could spend a lot of time giving full details, but an URL is worth a thousand words (or in this case the entire archives!). Surf to: http://listserv.albany.edu/archives/bee-l.html Aaron Morris - thinking better thoughts about Unix! ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 07:12:36 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: HIVES LOADER In-Reply-To: <199908181011.GAA07036@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT This message was originally submitted by eric.faucon@INFONIE.FR to the BEE-L list at LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to reformat the line breaks. ----------------- Original message (ID=BE47162C) (24 lines) ------------------- Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:14:26 +0200 sender: To: Message-ID: <934971266.45651825@infonie.fr> Subject: HIVES LOADER HELLO I'm working for the corsican regional association of beekeepers and we are searching hive loaders to move our hives. We are seraching suppliers or any documentation on the subject. can you help us? thank you eric.faucon@infonie.fr ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:56:13 -0400 Reply-To: Al Needham Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Al Needham Subject: Re: BEE-L Archives on the web! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Aaron et al: Just took a quick look at the BEE-L Search function at: > http://listserv.albany.edu/archives/bee-l.html I can't say enough for the value of this new function! I highly reccomend that ALL BEE-L members save or jot down this url for future use. It can save us all from having to now and then plow thru lengthy subjects that have been well covered before. Al Needham ........................................................ Scituate, MA.,USA Visit " The BeeHive " Learn About Honey Bees And Beekeeping http://www.xensei.com/users/alwine ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:11:02 -0400 Reply-To: dublgully@fuse.net Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Judy and Dave Subject: Re: a little red dot MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Reading this thread brings up a question. Why only 'red' dots? If the substance is pollen, why not yellow, purple, white? Can you identify the bloom and is it such that the bees have to work the bloom differently than blooms of other colors? Judy Kentucky, USA ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:40:41 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Lipscomb, Al" Subject: Re: a little red dot / New BEE-L archives MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" >Reading this thread brings up a question. >Why only 'red' dots? If the substance is pollen, why not yellow, purple, >white? Can you identify the bloom and is it such that the bees have to work the >bloom differently than blooms of other colors? A quick check of the archives for the third week in August of 1998 shows a thread aslking about bees with white on thier back........ Great tool ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 23:28:28 +0100 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: peter dillon Subject: Re: HIVES LOADER MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit See:www.apiservices.com There is a contact for a hive loader made in Australia. The person building the equipment is extremely helpful regarding any questions. The loaders are readily available in France. Peter ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 00:57:34 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Vivian Donahue Subject: What to do with Cappings Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Yes, aamof, I have a bowl of cappings out there right now. There are some yellowjackets that are there with the bees but as I said in my last post, I put screen over half the hive entrances and it seems to help the bees control the entrance. It seems to take them about 2-3 days to clean cappings. Only about 1 afternoon to clean up my 2 frame extractor. I sometimes sit and watch the dynamics of the bees cleaning up the cappings and equipment. I have 2 hives, and some wild bees come(undoubtedly from an escaped swarm, spring managment comes at my busiest work season). Initially there is some exitement when I set out wet equipment, but then they really get busy cleaning up the honey, and cleaning up each other when they are coated with honey. There doesn't seem to be any real fighting going on, even when bees and yellowjackets are licking the honey off each other. A few large wasps hang around, but nobody seems bothered by it. Occasional "spats", but they are more interested in the honey. Very strange, but it seems to work. Perhaps its because of my proximity, or maybe because I often feed my bees during honey droughts. I really don't know. I do know the danger of robbing, and am always looking out for it, but so far I guess I've been lucky.......? Vivian > >Do you do this in the fall too? I tried this, but any time after the first >of August in Ohio, it attracts too many yellow jackets. The yellow jackets >then try to get into the hives. Linda >>What I do to clean up my cappings is put them out for the bees to clean up. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:56:35 -0700 Reply-To: r@jobhaus.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert MacKimmie Subject: Re: BEE-L Archives on the web! Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 (NeXT Mail 4.2mach v148) I too think the new searchable archive is absolutely terrific, making it a truly valuable resource. >>> http://listserv.albany.edu/archives/bee-l.html Bookmark it early, visit it often ... robert@citybees.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 17:42:38 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "John K. Warsaw" Subject: Bee's Wings in Hives with Red Dots MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Do these hives have smallish bees with damaged wings? This, too, might be further visual evidence of varroa. ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:38:03 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Bill Truesdell Subject: Re: What to do with Cappings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Once upon a time I left my cappings and frames out for the bees to clean up. I had been told it creates robbing but saw no evidence. Plus, a friend told me he did it all the time, and he had forty hives. I no longer leave them out. I was not as observant as I thought. I did not recognize robbing when it was going on right in front of me. And took for granted a number of dead bees left behing after the cleaning of the cappings. I also did not know that the bees bothered my neighbors ever time I put out honey covered wax for cleaning. They seem to lose it and agressively looked for anything sweet in the neighborhood. These were my nice, gentle bees, turned bad by my actions. So I stopped. The advice of the oldtimers was right. It does create robbing. It does make angry bees. Look under the clean capping and frames and you will always find dead bees. They did not get that way from grooming honey off each other. And my friend, who had forty hives, now has none. AFB, a very preventable disease if you are observant, killed them all. Bill T Bath, ME ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 14:32:43 +0200 Reply-To: Apiservices - Gilles Ratia Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Apiservices - Gilles Ratia Organization: Apiservices Subject: Hives loader MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit eric.faucon@infonie.fr wrote to BEE-L: >>>>>>>>>> I'm working for the corsican regional association of beekeepers and we are searching hive loaders to move our hives. We are seraching suppliers or any documentation on the subject. can you help us? <<<<<<<<<< Hi Eric, Have a look at: http://www.beekeeping.com/copeman/ for the "Billet Easyloader" and at: http://www.beekeeping.com/acp/ for the "Rampicar R 600 / API" Best regards, Gilles RATIA International Beekeeping Consultant Webmaster of the "Virtual Beekeeping Gallery" Email: gilles.ratia@apiservices.com Web: http://www.beekeeping.com ========================================================================= Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:39:27 +0100 Reply-To: John Burgess Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: John Burgess Subject: Re: a little red dot Comments: To: dublgully@fuse.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Why only 'red' dots? If the substance is pollen, why not yellow, purple, > white? Can you identify the bloom and is it such that the bees have to work the bloom differently than blooms of other colors? > Himalayan balsam leaves a white spot on bee's backs. I guess it has something to do with the structure of the flower John Burgess, Editor Gwenynwyr Cymru/The Welsh Beekeeper pencaemawr@bigfoot.com ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 21:56:15 +0200 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Jorn Johanesson Subject: Sv: Re: What to do with Cappings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit -----Oprindelig meddelelse----- Fra: Bill Truesdell Til: BEE-L@LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU Dato: 19. august 1999 15:04 Emne: Re: What to do with Cappings >And my friend, who had forty hives, now has none. AFB, a very >preventable disease if you are observant, killed them all. Beside robbing, you will also be the source for infection with bee disease. Here in Denmark it is regulated by law, that it is not allowed to feed bees in the free. And leaving capping and equipment in the open to be cleaned by the bees is equal to feed them. Jorn Johanesson EDBi = multilingual Beekeeping software since 1987 http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo (Denmark) http://wn.com.au/apimo (Australia) http://apimo.dk (USA) apimo@post4.tele.dk apimo@wn.com.au Jorn_Johanesson@apimo.dk >Bill T >Bath, ME > ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 17:15:51 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Ron Miel MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On my recent holiday in the Canary Isles it was the practice in several restaurants for the waiter to bring with the bill a complimentary nightcap of Ron Miel - honey rum. This is so delicious that even my wife who does not usually enjoy strong beverages found it to her taste. Rather than buy somebody else's honey I brought back a bottle of the local rum and am busy trying to get the mixture right using my own honey. I haven't quite got it right yet but shall persevere diligently. Cheers Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 03:24:41 +0200 Reply-To: olda.vancata@quicknet.se Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: olda.vancata@QUICKNET.SE Subject: Re: Heat and Varroa In-Reply-To: <11143814830772@LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU> Allen > > > The best suited method for their rural area seemed > > > to be the heat treatment. > > Yes, many beekeepers in the former USSR are apparently returning to this > > heat treatment method after years of treating for Varroa chemically. > I wonder why? ...And I wonder about the miracle bees imported from Russia > to the USA if the people in the country of origin are having to treat. Do you like to wonder? More reason for more wondering: Why in volumes 1998, 1997 and 1996 of Pchelovodstvo (russian beekeeping magazine) you can't find anything about heat treatment nor miracle bees? Shouldn't russians be best in promoting the miracle bees? One may wonder why they are not promoting the 'beekeeping salvation'. It seems that russians (when reading Pchelovodstvo) are not aware of any miracles or treatments. One may wonder what can happen with the genetic diversity when crossing miracle bees (announced as A. melifera - without saying what kind - ligustica?, carnica?, caucasica?) with domestic bees. One may wonder what kind of bees you get when crossing different races (carnica x ligustica = mean). One may even wonder if the resistance ability (resistance is a very complex matter - not controlled by singel dominant gene) will be 'diluted' (and gone) instead of transfered to other bees. \vov ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 22:49:15 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Michael Sullivan Subject: Queen problems in observation hive Comments: To: BEE-L@cnsibm.albany.edu Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, I recently setup a two frame observation hive and I am having problems getting a queen in the hive. This is my first year as a beekeeper. I have a regular hive and I though it would be educational to have an observation hive. On the advise of a local beekeeper, I put a frame of brood and eggs along with a bunch of bees in the observation hive so that they could make their own queen. Unfortunately, my hive had a bad Varroa mite infestation and most of the brood emerged deformed. I put some Apistan strips in my main hive and in the observation hive and the Apistan did quite a number on the mites. The bees had made some queen cells, but I was worried that the newly-forming queen would also be deformed. I spoke with the beekeeper and he had just captured a small swarm. He gave me the swarm, which he though had a queen. After I introduced the swarm, I could not find a queen anywhere and after a week there were no eggs or larvae. Last week, I bought a queen and put the cage in the observation hive. After five days the queen emerged from the cage and I started to get my hopes up, but when I checked the hive a few hours later, I saw the queen dead on the bottom of the hive. The bees must have balled her. I still haven't seen any eggs or larvae, so I'm pretty sure that there is no queen or laying workers. Is this too late in the season to start a hive? Is there something else I can do to get the bees to accept a queen? My main hive is a good distance away from my home, so it will not be easy for me to get another frame of brood and eggs. If I can't get a queen in the hive, should I just let them live until the colony dies out or would it be OK to put these bees in my main hive. Since these bees are of unknown origin, would I be risking contaminating the other bees? If this colony doesn't survive, I plan on trying again next spring with a purchased queen and a frame with eggs and larvae. Thanks for any suggestions. Michael Sullivan ========================================================================= Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 14:34:57 -0500 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Dennis Crutchfield Subject: Re: Bee's Wings in Hives with Red Dots MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit No bees with damaged wing, actually the hive has around 60000 bees in it. And I only seen two or three of this on the bee's. I went on and put my aspitan strips in anyway . preacher -----Original Message----- From: John K. Warsaw To: BEE-L@listserv.albany.edu Date: Thursday, August 19, 1999 6:45 AM Subject: Bee's Wings in Hives with Red Dots >Do these hives have smallish bees with damaged wings? This, too, might be >further visual evidence of varroa. ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:08:50 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: Re: Red spot on bees' thorax MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT This message was originally submitted by preacherc@CVALLEY.NET to the BEE-L list at LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU. It was edited to remove quotes of previously posted material. From: preacherc@cvalley.net (Dennis Crutchfield) To: "Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology" Subject: Re: Red spot on bees' thorax Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 13:38:34 Hello beekeep, I have done what some of them requested and looked at the slides at the web site, And now much , admit. It does look just like a mite. I have only one hive with these. And the hive that I found it in . Has out of 10 frames of brood that I was looking at. Maybe two such bees. I was looking for the queen , for requeening and putting in my fall mite strips in. I lookes at more than likely 30000 bees in the hive and noticed only 2 to three out of the hive. But just for preventive measure, in goes the strips. I want to thank you guys for the help. Will let you know on the out come preacher ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:45:55 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Dr. Malcom (Tom) Sanford" Organization: Dept of Entomology/Nematology, U. of Florida Subject: Queen substance Comments: To: Roongtawan Supabphol Comments: cc: Recipients of ENTOMO-L digests MIME-version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Does anyone on the list know where this can be purchased? Please contact Dr. Supabphol directly. Thanks. Tom Sanford Roongtawan Supabphol wrote: > > Dear Sir > > I got your name from the web site, I am really sorry to ask you a > question, please. > > Could you please let me know where or how can I buy the chemical > "10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid" > > Thank you very much in advance > > ------------------------------------------------ > > Assist Prof Roongtawan Supabphol, PhD > Head, Department of Physiology > Faculty of Medicine > Srinakharinwirot University > Sukumvit 23, Bangkok 10110, Thailand > Tel 662-2601533 > 662-2602122-4 ext 4701-4703 > Fax 662-2601533 (department fax) > 662-2584006 (university fax) > > ------------------------------------------------- -- =========================================================================== Dr. Malcolm (Tom) Sanford, Extension Apiculturist, University of Florida Bldg. 970, P.O. Box 110620, Gainesville, FL 32611-0620 Ph. 352/392-1801 ext. 143 Fax 352/392-0190 E-mail: mts@gnv.ifas.ufl.edu ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Publisher of the APIS newsletter: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~mts/apishtm/apis.htm To electronically subscribe, send the following to listserv@lists.ufl.edu: subscribe Apis-L First Name Last Name ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Author of "Beekeeping in the Digital Age" http://bee.airoot.com/beeculture/digital/ =========================================================================== ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 11:47:52 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid In-Reply-To: <199908201545.LAA09088@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Does anyone on the list know where the chemical "10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid" > can be purchased? I too am interested in the answer (if available), so please also post to the list. Thanks, Aaron ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 14:28:39 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: BeemanNick@AOL.COM Subject: Re: 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can I ask what 10-Hydroxy-2-decenoic acid is??? And what it would be used for? Thanks Nick ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 14:38:05 +0000 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Aaron Morris Subject: 10-Hydroxy-2-decenoic acid In-Reply-To: <199908201829.OAA14084@listserv.albany.edu> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT > Can I ask what 10-Hydroxy-2-decenoic acid is??? And what it would be used for? Based on the original query titled "Queen Substance", I assume it's queen pheromones from a lab. I hope Tom will correct me if I'm wrong. Karl Showler put on a fascination drone congregation area demonstration at Gormanston using "queen substance" to attract drones. A feather dipped into the queen substance was attached to the tip of a fly fishing rod and we took a hike on the golf course in search of DCAs. I've read about them, but this was the first time I ever witnessed them. Amazing stuff! And the queen substance is pretty potent stuff too. One guy who smelled the treated feather had a drone fly into his nose! True story. Aaron Morris - thinking drones get a bum rap! ========================================================================= Date: Fri, 20 Aug 1999 16:33:34 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "Swintosky, Michael D." Subject: Requeening Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" My apologies if this is available in the now easily searched archives (I don't have easy internet access). I was wondering how late in the year it is advisable to requeen. Two hives will undergo treatment with Apistan beginning somewhere around the first week of September. That puts strip removal time around October 16-30. My understanding is that one should not have strips in the hive at the same time you are introducing a new queen. Is the end of October too late to requeen in NE Ohio? Would it be better to wait till spring? Any and all insights are welcome. Mike Swintosky Dellroy, Ohio ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 15:59:36 -0700 Reply-To: r@jobhaus.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Robert MacKimmie Subject: Shoptalk regarding extractors ... Content-Type: text/plain Mime-Version: 1.0 (NeXT Mail 4.2mach v148) For anyone contemplating the extractor market, let me convey that I just processed my first two supers through a new Fritz 12/20 extractor, brought in from Germany by a certain supplier in New York state. I have never seen such a beautiful piece of equipment. Every detail is well thought out and amazingly engineered. I regret that from my observations that similarly priced models from American manufacturers seem slightly less "finished". Truly, every detail is as good as it can be made. I consider this to be my lifetime extractor purchase and can't anticipate any reason why I would ever want or need any other. It is a real pleasure to use such an efficient and elegant workhorse tool. I am absolutely delighted and thought others might be interested in the early evaluation. Regards, Robert MacKimmie San Francisco, California r@citybees.com www.citybees.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 00:29:47 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: FW: Emergency queens MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -----Original Message----- From: Lloyd Spear [mailto:LloydSpear@email.msn.com] Sent: Saturday, August 07, 1999 10:08 AM To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues Subject: Emergency queens The following message has been delayed as my ISP would not connect to Bee-L! Allen Dick said "BUT at the end of the fourth day, we see '4th moult (Sealing)'. To me this seems to indicate that the cell is sealed when the larva is four days old. Now, here's the puzzler. It has been repeated here on BEE-L time and again, that if a hive is dequeened and, then-four days later-sealed cells are found, that they must perforce be from old larvae chosen by the bees. I don't get it." I recently had an opportunity to ask Dr. Larry Connor about this assertion. For those of you who do not know, Larry is an outstanding bee scientist and, among other things, started and maintained the Midnite and Starline programs for many years. Without attempting a direct quote (Larry, if I am mistaken jump in and correct me), Larry offered the views: 1- As far as he knows no one has ever studied the ages of the larvae selected when the bees raise emergency queens 2- "It doesn't make sense" that the bees would use anything but optimum larvae. Producing a queen takes a lot of energy and all animals have evolved to conserve energy wherever possible. Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner, Ross Rounds, Inc. The finest in comb honey production. www.rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 00:29:53 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: FW: Cut comb honey MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -----Original Message----- From: Lloyd Spear [mailto:LloydSpear@email.msn.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 12:11 PM To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues Subject: Cut comb honey There have been many comments lately about foundation for cut comb buckling or becoming wavy. Kent Steinburg's comments were, I thought, especially worthwhile. I produce about 20 supers of cut comb a year and thought I would add my thoughts. I talk to a lot of comb honey producers and wavy cut-comb foundation is a prime concern to all. The biggest problems are when the wave is so pronounced that it cannot be fit into a standard 4 1/4" box. Those who produce a lot of cut comb incorporate some or all of the following techniques to assure that the foundation is held as firmly as possible: 1. Use heavy foundation. Kelley and Dadant are the two large producers of foundation. Both produce foundation that runs 28-33 sheets to a pound for section comb, where the foundation is held much more firmly than it is for cut-comb. For cut-comb foundation, use the foundation that is 17-18 sheets to a pound. 2. If using wedge top bars, never use the same wedge in the same frame. If the nails go back into the same holes there is not enough hold to keep the foundation from slipping. 3. Use split top bars, not wedge or grooved top bars. As far as I know, these are only made by Kelley or Rossman, but they are made specifically for cut comb honey. Almost all serious producers of cut comb use these bars. Buy foundation that is slightly too wide for your frames, and fold over the excess onto the top bar. This helps hold the foundation firmly in place. If buying new bars, be certain Kelley or Rossman sends you the instructions on how to open the bars to insert the foundation. 4. One producer I know not only folds over the strip, but also uses a small propane blowtorch to melt the wax inside the split top bar. I am going to try this next year. I know another producer who folds over the strip and then puts a staple into the top bar to hold the sides tightly together. 5. Opinion varies on the type of bottom bar to use. Many prefer the split, and I know a few who use a grooved. Both are terrible to clean! (The split top bar is a cinch to clean.) Personally, I use a solid bottom bar and have the foundation just barely touching it. Some waviness will always be there, but with a combination of the above techniques it can be kept under control. A thin strip of foundation certainly works well in that it is not likely to wave at all, but I think it takes the bees longer to draw and fill and I don't know of any commercial producer now using them. Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner, Ross Rounds, Inc. The finest in comb honey production. www.rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 00:29:59 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Lloyd Spear Subject: FW: Queen quality MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -----Original Message----- From: Lloyd Spear [mailto:LloydSpear@email.msn.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 12:10 PM To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues Subject: Queen quality There has certainly been a lot of comments concerning the quality of purchased compared to home-grown (emergency, supercedure, or swarm) queens. IMHO, those who are most dogmatic about one or the other being "junk" are also those who are most wrong! I think this only needs saying to avoid mis-leading those beginners who use this list to further their knowledge. While I was at EAS I had an opportunity to have a long discussion with Larry Connor and Diana Sammataro on the merits of emergency, supercedure and swarm queens. Larry, was the initial person largely responsible for developing the Midnight and Starline lines and Diana is a researcher at Penn State. Both were very lucid (to me) concerning why emergency, supercedure and swarm queens are likely to have a good share of all the desirable traits that beekeepers want. Because I would mess them up, I won't try to repeat their comments except that both agreed that detrimental in-breeding (brother/sister)is very unlikely and nothing to be concerned about for the small scale producer. Both also agree that a shortage of drones may be a real problem in specific circumstances. As my friend Allen Dick says so well, there are few universal truths in beekeeping. Differences in climate, technique, flora, and (yes) even bees mean that there are few positive statements that can or should be applied to all circumstances. Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner, Ross Rounds, Inc. The finest in comb honey production. www.rossrounds.com ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 13:28:33 -0700 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Mark Osborne Subject: OOPS! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I may have made a fatal( to the bees) mistake today. Situation: 1st year bee rookie Located in Sonoma County Ca 1 hive consisting of 2 deeps 3 meds Started fro 3 # package April 20 99 I was installing a "Beltsville screen insert on the bottom board, lots of bees in the air. Noon ~85F no wind. All is going well, no brood in bottom deep, lots of honey. decided to remove to save to feed to bees in winter if needed. Second deep goes on fine, some older brood, lots of honey. Next med, I look for younger and uncapped brood, not any uncapped visible. Pick up med to replace on hive stand, It seems kind of heavy, but not as heavy as the deep I just replaced. Turn 90 degrees and second Med that was stuck to bottom drops, turns upside down in the dirt, and generally panics entire hive. Now, I suspect that the queen was in this Medium. I have lots of dead, injured and dirty bees in the dust. I am unhappy, the bees even more so. I continue to pick up the mess, No frames fell completely out of the medium, but it got really dirty. I replace the meduim. I install Apistan strips, reassemble remainder of hive, and get the hell out of there. I'm followed a good long way (~100+ yds) by some very angry bees. I thank whoever I can think of that I bought a good bee suit. What next? Will they requeen and survive the winter? (Assuming she was in that pile of dead dirty bees) Do I look at the hive in a week or so to see if there is any egglaying? Do I take up Golf? It is a lot harder than it looks.... Thanks Mark ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 17:05:08 -0400 Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Thom Bradley Subject: Re: OOPS! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark, What you describe is milder than normally seen with a bear or vandal attack. You did a good job of cleaning up, to start with. It is not unusual for the colony to survive a mishap as you describe. The queen may survive the acrobatics you describe. If there is brood they will create a new queen. I wouldn't worry too much. Feed them a gallon 1:1 sugar water to stimulate laying and check in a week for eggs/ larva or queen cells. If there are none, order a new queen. The rest didn't sound too bad. Bears do much worse to a colony and will survive if they have a queen, food, and the opportunity to cleanup/rebuild. Thom Bradley Chesapeake, VA Mark Osborne wrote: > > I may have made a fatal( to the bees) mistake today. > Med that was stuck to bottom drops, turns upside down in the dirt, and > generally panics entire hive. > > Now, I suspect that the queen was in this Medium. I have lots of dead, > injured and dirty bees in the dust. I am unhappy, the bees even more so. > > I continue to pick up the mess, No frames fell completely out of the > medium, but it got really dirty. I replace the meduim. I install Apistan > strips, reassemble remainder of hive, and get the hell out of there. ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 17:40:29 -0400 Reply-To: beekeeper@honeyhillfarm.com Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: wtroyer Organization: Honey Hill Farm Subject: Re: OOPS! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Mark You wrote: > I may have made a fatal( to the bees) mistake today. decided to remove (bottom > deep) to save to feed to bees in winter Generally, I suggest leaving the two deeps in place since that is the winter store of honey for that hive. Sometimes, you may remove a few frames of honey from a well provisioned hive when really needed elsewhere. > Turn 90 degrees and second Med that was stuck to bottom drops, turns upside > down in the dirt, and generally panics entire hive. A procedure that works well for me is to place the outer cover upside down on the ground. Remove top medium; place gently crosswise on cover. Remove second medium; place crosswise on first. Continue removing one box at a time and placing gently crosswise until you reach whatever level you want. Reverse the procedure to reassemble the hive. This procedure minimizes the potential for crushing bees. > Now, I suspect that the queen was in this Medium. I have lots of dead, > injured and dirty bees in the dust. I am unhappy, the bees even more so. So, it's miller time! > I replace the meduim. I install Apistan strips, reassemble remainder of hive, > and get the hell out of there. Apistan should never be used with honey supers in place. Don't consume, or permit anyone else, to consume any of that honey. > What next? Will they requeen and survive the winter? You might want to do a very gentle inspection in about 1 week to looking for a queen, evidence of egg laying, queen cells and young worker larvae. You might also note pollen gathering/storage. You should cull out any honey from the supers, segregate any brood into one super and place it back on the hive to allow the brood to emerge. I've heard that the bees will generally not put more brood into the super if you put the super on the bottom of the hive. You should remove the super 3 weeks later. Determine whether the hive needs honey frames returned that you previously removed. If there is no positive evidence of a queen or brood rearing you can always purchase a new queen in order to save the hive. > Do I take up Golf? I tried that once; golf is a lot harder than it looks. Incidentally, I once dropped an entire hive off of a loader. What a mess! But, that hive is doing fine now. The queen even survived. Wade -- Web Site: http://www.honeyhillfarm.com E-mail: beekeeper@honeyhillfarm.com Call Sign: W8BEE ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 18:28:10 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: "W. G. Miller" Subject: Re: OOPS! MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark dropped a brood box, and is now wondering whether or not he wiped out his queen in the process. I recommend waiting a week or so, then taking a look inside the colony for eggs or queen cells. If you find eggs, then the queen is still there and has gone back to work. This is the more likely scenario. If you find emergency queen cells, then your original queen is probably gone and you should order a new queen. W. G. Miller Gaithersburg, MD ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 19:06:59 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: bee genetics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom, As a keen student I am sure you will have access to Mesquida's Elements of genetics with special reference to the bee. If not, it is obtainable from BIBBA. He has a little to say about linkage but unfortunately his examples are from mice and fruit flies. I think you are not likely to find sex linkage a productive way to select genes to improve your stock in the short term. Try keeping at least twice as many hives as you need and select by culling the worst queens (in terms of genes exhibited) and uniting their hives to the best. That way you not only improve your quality through selection but if you get the timing right you boost the honey crop of the remainder. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 19:07:00 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Pheromones MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I set up several bait hives this year, some with pheromone lures and some without. The only success was without, but with smelly old brood comb. Most years I get a stray swarm in the stack of supers in my shed. My view is that the pheromone lures are in their infancy. Try them from time to time but compare their performance with old comb. They may get a better formula eventually but at present there seems to be a missing ingredient. Chris Slade ========================================================================= Date: Sun, 22 Aug 1999 12:08:31 +1200 Reply-To: nickw@beekeeping.co.nz Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: Nick Wallingford Subject: Honey as a medicine MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Some of you on the list are familiar with the name Dr Peter Molan, of Waikato University, in Hamilton New Zealand. He was responsible for determining that manuka honey, in particular, has antibiotic properties in excess of that which is normal in all honeys. Peter's interests in honey are wide-ranging, in fact. He has often given *excellent* presentations to beekeepers and other groups on the process of wound healing in general, and the particular advantages that honey has in treating wounds, ulcers and burns. I have just placed four examples of recent articles, bibliographies and 'handouts' on the NZ Beekeeping pages. I think many on the list will find them an excellent reference as well as a 'commonsense guide' to the use of honey in healing... http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/molan.htm (the main article) http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/molan2.htm (an extensive bibliography) http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/molan3.htm (selection and use of honey on wounds) http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/molan4.htm (summary of recent research findings) (\ Nick Wallingford {|||8- nickw@beekeeping.co.nz (/ NZ Beekeeping http://www.beekeeping.co.nz 'Order' files from an autoresponder... NZ Bkpg: Commercial Beekeeping (Story)? Email to: comm@beekeeping.co.nz ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 22:50:52 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: HStarJE@AOL.COM Subject: heat vs. miracle bees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/18/99 10:05:48 PM Mountain Daylight Time, LISTSERV@LISTSERV.ALBANY.EDU writes: > the former USSR are apparently returning to this heat > > treatment method after years of treating for Varroa chemically. > > I wonder why? ...And I wonder about the miracle bees imported from Russia > to > the USA if the people in the country of origin are having to treat. > The former USSR is a big place (Russia being just one of the countries) and isn't it a bit much to assume that the new super bees are already widely distributed throughout the region and Varroa eliminated? I doubt that any single approach to Varroa will be sufficient in the short term, be it genetic, chemical, heat, trapping or ??. I do have an open mind about possible alternative treatments. Cesar Flores ========================================================================= Date: Sat, 21 Aug 1999 19:07:05 EDT Reply-To: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology Sender: Informed Discussion of Beekeeping Issues and Bee Biology From: CSlade777@AOL.COM Subject: Re: Bee genetics MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, Putting it simply, a queen has a genetic make up that comes half from a random assortment of her mother's and half from all of her single father. Her father's genes came from a random assortment of his mother's. However, you as a beekeeper assess the genetic qualities of a queen by looking at her daughters and their activities. Unless you are into artificial insemination with single drones the queen will have mated with up to 20 drones, many of which will have had different mothers. Even if they came from the same mother they will have a different random selection of her genes. Each worker will therefore have a random selection of her mother's genes plus a full dose of genes from just one of the many drones she mated with (1 sperm to 1 egg). Having read the above I am not sure that I did put it simply. I drew a diagram before typing. Perhaps readers might find it helpful to put the words into a picture. Chris Slade