Article 14848 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: harrisonrw@aol.com (HarrisonRW)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: info search
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www.nhb.org   

Is the web site of the National Honey Board and they have what you are looking
for.

Regards,
Ralph Harrison
Western Connecticut Beekeepers Association
Milford, CT USA


Article 14849 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: info search
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> I'm having trouble finding basic information on the internet about
> bees.  I'm looking for the simplest kind of educational information,
> since I don't know anything about bees.  Does anyone know any good URLs
> for this kind of information, or have a recommendation of books to look
> for in the library

Hi Mara,

This is a good question, and one that has many answers.

The web has a large amount of good bee information, and there are discussions
like this that you can listen in on.  A good one is BEE-L, which you can join
by going to http://www.beekeeping.co.nz/beel.htm

If you go to the home page of that site after joining BEE-L and searching the
extensive archives of previous discussions, you will find a link a page of
links, many of which will refer you to still more sites.

My own home page, http://www.internode.net/HoneyBee/ ,has links to my bee area
which in turn leads out to some of the best lists of URLs.

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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Article 14850 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net (Andy Nachbaur)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: BEENEWS is not all bad? 
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 17:08:02 GMT
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<ARIZONA STAR> 10.29.98 From a victim of last months bee attack in
BisBEE after 500 stings a voice of reason is heard "Don't kill the
bees" 

Stop in for the latest bee keeper news, updated as it is reported..
and if you have something you think should be seen feal free to e-mail
it to me at: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net

For all the beenews go to http://beenet.com/bnews.htm

Tanks, the OLd Drone 

(c)Permission is given to copy this document 
in any form, or to print for any use.

(w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE  AT OWN RISK!


Article 14851 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Bill Greenrose <bill.greenrose@valley.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Power Ventilators for Bees???
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 10:07:52 -0500
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Tom Singleton wrote:

> I just found a site advertising a power hive ventilator for
> bees...sounds a little odd, but after I read the bee research info,
> hmmm...
>
> Has anyone out there actually tried one of these devices, and could
> offer an experienced opinion as to effect on hive health and honey
> production?
>
> Thanks for any help.  I'm not sure I can see the $120 per hive cost, but
> it's interesting.
>
> Tom
> Monroe, WA

greetings,

i've never used the powered hive ventilator, but i have a couple of d.e.
hives, and they use passive ventilation via a vent box.  it is just a super
box [actually, even simpler] with 3 screened holes on each side that sits
above the inner lid [which has 3 screened holes, as well] and below the
telescoping roof.  in my experience it works very well.  in the past 2
summers i haven't once seen my bees clustered outside the hive due to
overheating.  a good convective flow probably aids them in 1) cooling the
hive and 2) evaporating moisture from the honey to speed capping, but i have
no proof of either statement.  the vent box also has the advantage of
providing plenty of space over the inner lid for feeding larger quantities
of syrup.

if you plan to give it a try, here are a couple of construction tips.
first, make your holes at an angle [going 'up' and 'in'] to provide some
protection in the rain.  second, make them about 1/3 the way up the side of
the box, not dead center.  that way, you can flip the box in the fall, and
the holes will be covered by the telescoping roof.  in the spring, reverse
it.  anyway, that's how david eyre designed his vent box and it works fine
for me.  lot less than $120, too.

hope this helps.

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




Article 14852 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Speight <Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: What are your favorite types of Honey?
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 00:26:31 +0000
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In article <3638DDD7.F95@povn.com>, J. F Hensler <hensler@povn.com>
writes
>Yo Tom:
>
>No, no, no, you've got it all backward.  

Seems on par for me :(
-- 
Tom Speight


Article 14853 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
Message-ID: <363B91BA.2A3F@saltspring.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 14:39:54 -0800
From: stephen ball <sball@saltspring.com>
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on several occasion now i have observed my bees apparently foraging on
an old raw sheepskin hanging in the barn.apon closer examination they
appear to be pulling wool fibres.any suggestions as to this
behavior?thanks    stephen ball


Article 14854 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "gene/janice" <e-jeve@spiritone.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: cheap varroa strips
Date: 1 Nov 1998 04:54:07 GMT
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Talked to a Professer of Entomology from state college (no name) last
evening about fluvalinate strips from China. He says they have not been
approved in this country so should not use. Later said that because of the
price they are very widely used in Thialand when he was visiting there.

Just some food for thought.

Gene in Ore.



Mark Jensen wrote in message <362ab908.27475855@netnews.att.net>...
>An ad in the latest ABJ said to check varroa.com. So I did as I was told
>and went to:
>http://www.varroa.com
>Lo and behold the Chinese are selling fluvalinate strips for less than
>$.40 US each.
>I turned in an order but the credit card listed was Visa, and alas all I
>had was Master Card.
>I tried to order using the fax #, but that number did not work.
>It looks like the internet is going to bring some sorely needed
>competition to our friendly apistan salesmen.




Article 14855 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Flemming Rasmussen" <flemmin_@post10.tele.dk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Apian technology(queens)
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 11:35:51 +0100
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Is there any one who had tried "Apian technology Queens breeding
system"?.The company are from New Zealand. Is it god?Does it have any "dark"
sides?Do it keep what thei promise in there comerserial?

Regards Flemming Rasmussen .Denmark.
 flemmin_@post10.tele.dk





Article 14856 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Tasos Toutoutzian" <atout@otenet.gr>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Formic acid help wanted
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 22:33:25 +0200
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Dear friends
I have a obtained a bottle of formic acid from the chemists
 and would like to use it to treat for varroa.

could someone tell me how to go about it?

ie.  if this liquid is 100% pure what dilution should I use
       how do I apply it (with paper strips?)
       where on the hive should it be placed
        how often to change it
       etc.

I have 12 colonies and thank everyone who will respond to my question

atout@otenet.gr

Thank you
all
 Anastasios Toutountzian
Athens Greece.





Article 14857 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Don Metzger" <anomynous@anoyous.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Just a test to see how news groups work
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 14:46:45 -0800
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YES THIS IS JUST A TEST, NOT A REQUEST FOR A REPLY.

But thank you for reading it anyway.





Article 14858 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jerryosv@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginner needs help
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 18:42:24 GMT
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In article <70gf7a$67t$2@news1.Radix.Net>,
  honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) wrote:
> shine389@aol.com (Shine389) wrote:
>
> >Hi, I am very very interested in keeping bees and also very very clueless.
Can
> >someone lead me to someone or someplace that can help me??  Thanks.
> It would help if we knew what part of the planet are you
> from?
>
> The following might give you a clue:
> 1. Go to the library.
> 2. Get a library card (they are free).
> 3. Take home books and videos on beekeeping.
> 4. Watch videos.
> 5. Read books.
> 6. Return them to the library.
> 7.  Go back to rule #3.
>
> Then come here with inteligent questions for discussion.
>
> Greg
>
>        //          Bee Just & Just Bee!
>   =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA
>        \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs
>
>
> shine389, the above are excellent suggestions from greg, I would also then
call your local agriculture dept., ask the entomologis if there are any bee
keepers that known to be helpful to beginners, many commercial people don't
have the time but some will. Good luck. I'm in S. Calif.




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Article 14859 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: "Oso43" <oso43@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: to everyone...
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:09:01 -0800
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In an effort to keep from being slammed, or flammed what is the policy of
this newsgroup about mentioning a site that carries supplies for beekeepers?

oso43@aol.com




Article 14860 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to everyone...
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Why not post the address  
nobody will be forced to go there


Article 14861 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Ulli Hoeger" <uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: bees in wool?
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stephen ball <sball@saltspring.com> wrote in article
<363B91BA.2A3F@saltspring.com>...
> on several occasion now i have observed my bees apparently foraging on
> an old raw sheepskin hanging in the barn.apon closer examination they
> appear to be pulling wool fibres.any suggestions as to this
> behavior?thanks    stephen ball
> 

Looks like the winter will be pretty cold ;)


Article 14862 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pabeeman@aol.com (Pa Beeman)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: BeeKeeping Software
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Does any one know of any software for beekeeping.


Article 14863 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Michael Scott Meiners" <meinerms@email.uc.edu>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Honey Labels
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I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
-Mike




Article 14864 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Carmela Carbonaro" <carmcarb@tin.it>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: RED SICILIANS ORANGES
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 00:04:35 +0100
Organization: TIN
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Messaggio a più sezioni in formato MIME.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I SELL RED SICILIANS ORANGES,VARIETY TAROCCO AND SANGUINELLO,FROM =
PRODUCER TO CONSUMER.
FOR INFORMATION:     carmcarb@tin.it

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BE06BD.8AA7F040
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I SELL RED SICILIANS ORANGES,VARIETY =
TAROCCO AND=20
SANGUINELLO,FROM PRODUCER TO CONSUMER.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>FOR =
INFORMATION:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:carmcarb@tin.it">carmcarb@tin.it</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></=
HTML>

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Article 14865 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Singleton <tsingle@bigfoot.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: How many strips to use??
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 17:43:35 -0800
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I know that I should know this by now, but.....after having (finally)
read the package instructions for my Apistan strips this year I'm still
not REALLY sure whether I'm supposed to use TWO or FOUR strips in a two
brood super hive.

The instructions say "Use one strip for each 5 combs of bees or less in
each brood chamber (Langstroth deep frames or equivalent in other
sizes)." This seems to indicate that I would use a total of FOUR strips
in a two super colony.  BUT...

The instructions also say "If two deep supers are used for the brood
nest, hang APISTAN strips in alternate corners of the cluster in the top
and bottom super."  Alternate corners could seem to mean only TWO strips
used, in opposite corners.  Or does it mean FOUR strips in an up & down
"X" pattern at the four corners of the brood nest?

This wouldn't be so confusing I guess if I didn't know beekeepers who
were of both persuasions.  What's the consensus of practice out there?
For the record I have always used FOUR strips, one each between frames 3
& 4 and between 7 & 8, both upper and lower super, and haven't had any
problems.  But then, I mostly have "Yugos", which are supposed to be
mite-resistant....

Also, handling these strips with rubber gloves is awful clumsy and slow,
but I did it this year anyway, instead of just using my bare hands (I
don't generally use gloves) as in all years past.  Does anybody know how
harmful exposure to fluvalinate to people/skin really is?

Just curious,
Tom S.
Monroe, WA



Article 14866 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jerryosv@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Beginner needs help
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 18:52:30 GMT
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In article <70gf7a$67t$2@news1.Radix.Net>,
  honeybs@radix.net (honeybs) wrote:
> shine389@aol.com (Shine389) wrote:
>
> >Hi, I am very very interested in keeping bees and also very very clueless.
Can
> >someone lead me to someone or someplace that can help me??  Thanks.
> It would help if we knew what part of the planet are you
> from?
>
> The following might give you a clue:
> 1. Go to the library.
> 2. Get a library card (they are free).
> 3. Take home books and videos on beekeeping.
> 4. Watch videos.
> 5. Read books.
> 6. Return them to the library.
> 7.  Go back to rule #3.
>
> Then come here with inteligent questions for discussion.
>
> Greg
>
>        //          Bee Just & Just Bee!
>   =8{ })))-      Chicamuxen, Maryland, USA
>        \\          www.radix.net\~honeybs
>
>The above are excellent suggestions, I would then call or go to your local
agriculture dept. ask the entomologis if there are bee keepers that are known
to be helpfull to beginners. Many commercial people don't have the time, but
some are ready to help the new keepers. Good luck

jerry

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 14867 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 20:47:42 -0800
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There are not any dramatic, and maybe not even any subtle anatomical 
differences between Africanized honeybees and normal honeybees. Insect 
biologists don't say exactly how they are supposed to be able to tell the 
difference anatomically. It seems to be established in the scientific 
community, therefore, that the Africanized bee is identified by its 
behavior, not by its anatomy.*

This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
example of the phenomenon of demon possession. The most well known 
historical example of demon possession occurred in 
the days of Jesus when a demon possessed man who lived among the tombs 
approached him. This man (there may have been 
two demon possessed men) was under demon control so that it was not 
possible even to restrain the man with chains. Jesus effectuated a cure 
of the man by ordering the legions of demons out of his body, and when 
the demons exited his body they entered into the bodies of 2,000 swine, 
completely possessing and controlling the swine.


* see for example:           http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm
"Question: How is the Africanized bee different from the domestic honey 
bee?
 The physical differences between the European and Africanized hone bee 
are so slight that it is difficult even for an expert to make a positive 
visual identification. Complex testing procedures are used to distinguish 
between the two bees.
 The most obvious characteristics of the Africanized bee have to do with 
its behavior. Africanized colonies are consistently more defensive, more 
apt to swarm and move, and are less selective in choosing a nesting site. 
The colonies also occur in greater numbers."


Article 14868 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Ulli Hoeger" <uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca>
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: 3 Nov 1998 14:45:17 GMT
Organization: ISINet, Nova Scotia
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Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net> wrote in article
<MPG.10a82ac5883dc9249896e8@news.pe.net>...

> This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
> Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
> example of the phenomenon of demon possession. 
> 
HARD STUFF!  What kind of drugs are you using?
Can you give us this URL?
It is not http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm  (BTW a very good
summary of all possible bee related links)



Article 14869 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: peter.hutton@zbee.com (Peter Hutton)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: publicity
Message-ID: <910086204@zbee.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 22:51:00 GMT
Lines: 16
Distribution: world
Organization: ZbeeNet computer networking for beekeepers

CHRS: IBMPC 2

CODEPAGE: 437

MSGID: 240:244/116 4bb41546

PID: FDAPX/w 1.12a UnReg(470)
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Hi Godfrey,
 mountbee@iafrica.com requires info on Shows in the UK and trade stand terms or
Agency matters. I think immediately of the National this month and the fact
that firm has failed to pick up on the publicity and of the Spring convention
at Stoneleigh.

You might well be able to pick up on the Agency side of this enquiry and inform
them of the Spring convention as well.

Regards

Peter Hutton

---
 * Origin: Kent Beekeeper Beenet Point (240:244/116)


Article 14870 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: 3 Nov 1998 17:15:21 GMT
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In article <MPG.10a82ac5883dc9249896e8@news.pe.net>,
Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net> wrote:

>There are not any dramatic, and maybe not even any subtle anatomical 
>differences between Africanized honeybees and normal honeybees. Insect 
>biologists don't say exactly how they are supposed to be able to tell the 
>difference anatomically. It seems to be established in the scientific 
>community, therefore, that the Africanized bee is identified by its 
>behavior, not by its anatomy.*
>
>This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
>Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 

Are you serious? So then, the adaptation to being more sensitive to alarm
pheromone and it's releasing behavior more intense is "demon possession"?

I guess you can call it that, or Peanut Butter Sandwich if you want.


Man I'm amazed with this logic. A skewed syllogism.

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                                   
adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     adamf@radix.net      (either will work)
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf



Article 14871 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: SYSAM@uacsc2.albany.edu (Aaron Morris)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 98 08:51:13 EST
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In article <4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>
"Michael Scott Meiners" <meinerms@email.uc.edu> writes:
 
>
>Any suggestions on where to look (for honey labels)?
>
Most aggressive advertisor in the bee rags is:
   R.M. Farms (Bob)
   PO Box 684
   Dearborn, Mi.  48127-0684
   Phone: (313) 722-7727
   Fax:   (313) 729-7826
 
I have always been satisfied with their product.
 
Aaron Morris - I think, therefore I bee!


Article 14872 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Oldfield Family" <oldfield@kynd.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:12:55 -0500
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You obviously own a computer , with a printer? try making your own off the
printer incorporate your own apairy logo labels to fit the printer and the
jars or honey bears are readily available for small price that may make your
honey and products stand out from rest! Packaging man packaging!
Michael Scott Meiners wrote in message
<4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>...
>I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
>the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
>sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
>-Mike
>
>




Article 14873 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Lines: 11
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Xref: fddinewz.oit.unc.edu sci.agriculture.beekeeping:14873

>Man I'm amazed with this logic. A skewed syllogism.
>

you know i'm reminded of a late night bee transport, where i was keeping my
smoker going by hanging it in the truck window, this also allowed me to
breathe. this all worked to grab the attention of a passing state trooper.
after giving me the blues he asked what the heck was i smoking....
i replied simply with a grin and answered,
 why bees of course
when i drove away he was still laughing !!
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


Article 14874 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Robert Stucki" <ROBERT.STUCKI@SE.ADMIN.CH>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Varroa treatment with mineral oil
Date: 2 Nov 98 16:40:20 GMT
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Have any one any experience with this stuff ?
Is it god?Does it have any "dark" sides?

Regards Robert Stucki, Switzerland


Article 14875 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: andy.nachbaur@calwest.net (Andy Nachbaur)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 01:50:11 GMT
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On Mon, 2 Nov 1998 20:47:42 -0800, amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
wrote:

>There are not any dramatic, and maybe not even any subtle anatomical 
>differences between Africanized honeybees and normal honeybees. Insect 
>biologists don't say exactly how they are supposed to be able to tell the 
>difference anatomically. It seems to be established in the scientific 
>community, therefore, that the Africanized bee is identified by its 
>behavior, not by its anatomy.*

Today in the US anatomical differences are measured to determine if
the suspected bee fits in the profile, same science developed and used
by the German's in WWII in running their death camps, and then shades
of OJ, DNA tests are made...only thing about this DNA the only 100%
pure  African hive found in the US was found years before the first
recorded arrivals from South America all the rest have been called
Africanized I guess cause they ain't so pure, but then no body has yet
been able to take these so called Africanized and breed them backwards
to African so I would guess their genes are also not so pure also. 

No behavioral measurement are made in Africanized regulatory tests in
the US. One reason for this is that in the past we have been able to
demonstrate bad behavior in bees that exceeds anything reported in
Africanized bees prior or since to its introduction into the US.

Honey bees have been killing people here since the first introduction
from Europe which also were themselves said at times to be "fire
eating bees that could swell the pockets shut on a old sows purse".
Old timers referred to them as German Blacks or Spanish Bees depending
on how far south they lived. 

A few, and  I believe its all a bunch of BS hype and so do some in the
upper rooms of government as the federal program will soon expire.

In the original tests at Bakersfield California the more time the
tests were repeated on the same hives the more so called Africanized
bees were found. The quarantine was lifted not because NO Africanized
bees were found but because after repeated tests they were found in
hives that were known to have been re-queened with Northern California
queens a few months earlier..

>This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
>Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
>example of the phenomenon of demon possession. The most well known 
>historical example of demon possession occurred in 
>the days of Jesus when a demon possessed man who lived among the tombs 
>approached him. This man (there may have been 
>two demon possessed men) was under demon control so that it was not 
>possible even to restrain the man with chains. Jesus effectuated a cure 
>of the man by ordering the legions of demons out of his body, and when 
>the demons exited his body they entered into the bodies of 2,000 swine, 
>completely possessing and controlling the swine.

That's at the least original and would look as good in some of the
quarantine orders I have seen as what they did contained and I am sure
experts could be found that would back it up word for word.

>"Question: How is the Africanized bee different from the domestic honey 
>bee?
> The physical differences between the European and Africanized hone bee 
>are so slight that it is difficult even for an expert to make a positive 
>visual identification. Complex testing procedures are used to distinguish 
>between the two bees.
> The most obvious characteristics of the Africanized bee have to do with 
>its behavior. Africanized colonies are consistently more defensive, more 
>apt to swarm and move, and are less selective in choosing a nesting site. 
>The colonies also occur in greater numbers."

I know we have been all trained to believe that Africander bees are
different and always aggressive but beekeepers who work with them
every day mano e mano do not know that difference. All one has to do
is to see a crazy gringo or native beeman working his bees in cut
off's in Brazil or any other place that has Afro bees to realize that
someone has bee fed a line... In any case if the Africanized bee story
was true and as dramatic as it has been written there would be no
reason at all for anyone to lie about it, or set up the press,  right
...well see this url for some background.

http://beenet.com/texmex.htm

Be sure and check out this guys credits...he's not God but has no
reason to lie about the work he has done.

ttul, the OLd Drone
http://beenet.com

(c)Permission is given to copy this document 
in any form, or to print for any use.

(w)OPINIONS are not necessarily facts. USE  AT OWN RISK!


Article 14876 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: sdrfgdg
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wetwtrwtrwretwwet


Article 14877 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: skep615@aol.com (SKEP615)
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Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
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amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel) wrote:
>
<snip>
>This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
>Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
>example of the phenomenon of demon possession.

ROTFL Nothing quite like a bit of sheer craziness to get me going in the
morning! Thanks.

> The most well known 
>historical example of demon possession occurred in 
>the days of Jesus when a demon possessed man who lived among the tombs 
>approached him. 

Sorry if I rattle too many cages, but there is a BIG difference between
"history" ("historical example") and religious or spiritual or scriptural
narrative, regardless the degree to which the latter depends on verifiable
facts.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 14878 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Mice
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Has any one ever had Mice enter there hive's with Entrance Reducers installed.


Article 14879 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:01:13 -0800
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Just plain old Mary Jane.
These are only the most preliminary research findings.


In article <01be0738$a08227c0$cf58ad81@ulli.BP.Dal.Ca>, 
uhogerdelete@tupphysiol1.bp.dal.ca says...
> 
> 
> Peter Amschel <amschelp@pe.net> wrote in article
> <MPG.10a82ac5883dc9249896e8@news.pe.net>...
> 
> > This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
> > Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
> > example of the phenomenon of demon possession. 
> > 
> HARD STUFF!  What kind of drugs are you using?
> Can you give us this URL?
> It is not http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm  (BTW a very good
> summary of all possible bee related links)
> 
> 


Article 14880 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: Tom Singleton <tsingle@bigfoot.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: BeeKeeping Software
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 13:44:29 -0800
Organization: Monroe Business Services, Inc.
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There's a list of bee software at the miningco site at
http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm .  Scroll down to the
"Software" subcategory and have fun...

Tom Singleton
Monroe, WA

Pa Beeman wrote:

> Does any one know of any software for beekeeping.



Article 14881 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: to everyone...
Date: 3 Nov 1998 21:03:11 GMT
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In article <363d074c.0@news.ccountry.net>, Oso43 <oso43@hotmail.com> wrote:
>In an effort to keep from being slammed, or flammed what is the policy of
>this newsgroup about mentioning a site that carries supplies for beekeepers?

Hi thanks for being so polite.
If your post has any advantage to beekeepers, then it belongs here.
You might tailor the distribution, unless the site points to a seller that
caters to world-wide commerce. 
Adam

-- 
Adam Finkelstein                                   
adamf@vtaix.cc.vt.edu     adamf@radix.net      (either will work)
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf



Article 14882 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "David Gaida" <dublgully@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
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Hi Peter/All

Peter, your comments about african honey bees just show how little 
you know about them. To say there are not any dramatic differences 
between the african and european honeybees is similar to saying there 
is no dramatic difference between a polar bear and a lion.

> > There are not any dramatic, and maybe not even any subtle anatomical 
> > differences between Africanized honeybees and normal honeybees. Insect 
> > biologists don't say exactly how they are supposed to be able to tell
the
> > difference anatomically. It seems to be established in the scientific 
> > community, therefore, that the Africanized bee is identified by its 
> > behavior, not by its anatomy.*

The african honeybee is identified genetically for ease. A simple 
half hour preperation of DNA and a little test can easily 
differentiate between africanized and non-africanized honeybees if it 
is carried out correctly. Although less sensitive many researchers 
can use anatomical characters to differentiat bees, but here 
collector bias can cause problems.

 > This is why it has been concluded in information published on the 
> > Internet, that the phenomenon of Africanized bees is an 
> > example of the phenomenon of demon possession. The most well known 
> > historical example of demon possession occurred in 

is the way certain beekeepers who are not able to change their ways 
have tried to kill all the african honeybees moving into the suitable 
regions of the US - wasting much money and effort - rather than doing 
what any sensible african beekeeper does - breed a better bee.

> > * see for example:          
http://beekeeping.miningco.com/mlibrary.htm
> > "Question: How is the Africanized bee different from the domestic honey

> > bee?
> >  The physical differences between the European and Africanized hone bee

> > are so slight that it is difficult even for an expert to make a
positive 
> > visual identification. Complex testing procedures are used to
distinguish

The african honeybee does not over winter under low temperature 
conditions. It builds different combs size given the chance. It is 
smaller. It is a different colour often. It's queens can fly at any 
time, it has better flight machinery. It is not stoned enough to sit 
by and let something destroy it's hive without putting up a fight. It 
can survive in the presence of the hive beetle Aethina tumida. It is 
more varroa tolerant. It is a tropical bee - it has more generations 
per year so certain traits have been selected for a bit faster than 
in EHB's.

> >  The most obvious characteristics of the Africanized bee have to do
with 
> > its behavior. Africanized colonies are consistently more defensive,
more 
> > apt to swarm and move, and are less selective in choosing a nesting
site.


Because they originate from a continent where that is the way of 
life. Imagine if we in africa had EHB's invading. We would have these 
incompetant bees that don't produce many young, that don't work very 
hard, that go to sleep for half the year living in our land. Then to 
make things worse, when a natural predator like a honey badger came 
along the bees would not even put up a fight to chase it away. When a 
fire came they would just sit and get burnt - rather than flying 
away. Ask yourself - is the african bee an example of demon 
possesion, or is it an example of an animal that lives peacefully and 
happily in africa being moved to a land where the average knowledge 
of bees of the inhabitants is so low that the demon possesed press 
make people like yourself, Peter, make such silly comments?

> > The colonies also occur in greater numbers."

Of course they do - the bees have a better energy to flight 
conversion system - in otherwords their ability to fly is better. So 
for the same number of flowers visited the african genes allow 
another 20% extra bees to be reared.

So in conclusion - the african honey bee is not demon possesed - a 
beekeeper such as myself, used to handling these bees can easily 
handle them. It is the press, and the countless morons in our society 
that are demon possed to exagerate the properties of a perfectly 
sensible bee.
Garth Cambray           Camdini Apiaries
15 Park Road
Grahamstown             Apis mellifera capensis
6139
South Africa

Time = Honey

If you are not living on the edge you are taking up too much space!!





Article 14883 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: AL <lithar@midwest.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: BeeKeeping Software
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 13:09:57 -0600
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Pa Beeman wrote:
> 
> Does any one know of any software for beekeeping.


All my stuff seems to be woodenware & hardware - the clothing is kinda
soft though.

:)

AL


Article 14884 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Kent Stienburg <beeman@kingston.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: How many strips to use??
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 17:06:18 -0800
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Tom Singleton wrote:
> 
> 
  What's the consensus of practice out there? For the record I have
always used FOUR strips, one each between frames 3
> & 4 and between 7 & 8, both upper and lower super, and haven't had any
> problems.  But then, I mostly have "Yugos", which are supposed to be
> mite-resistant....
> 
> Also, handling these strips with rubber gloves is awful clumsy and slow,
> but I did it this year anyway, instead of just using my bare hands (I
> don't generally use gloves) as in all years past.  Does anybody know how
> harmful exposure to fluvalinate to people/skin really is?
> 
> Just curious,
> Tom S.
> Monroe, WA

Hi Tom,
I put 4 strips in a two box hive exactly where you are hanging them.  I
have Carnolians also and have found mites.  I have always found the term
MITE resistant interesting because it implies both mites.  Here in
Ontario we have been told by our provincial bee inspecter that some of
our strains are showing signs of trecheal mite resistance.  But not
Varroa.  Any way the Carnolian and Buckfast strains I purchased from the
breeders are one of them.  I found Varroa this year but I have never
treated for trecheal.  I don't use gloves when I place the strips in the
hives.  Since I only have a few hives I am not handling them for very
long and I immediately wash my hands after I am done. I am not saying
what I do is right, as you have noted the instruction clearly state to
use gloves. 
-- 
Kent Stienburg
Remove NOSPAM to reply.


Article 14885 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "C.R. Crowell" <Curtiscrow@worldnet.att.net>
Newsgroups: alt.hobbies.beekeeping,sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: 5 Nov 1998 01:49:55 GMT
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Garth Cambray:
  I thank you for the informative response to the suggestion that AHB's
represent a
case of demonic possession.  Having just readied myself to acquire a
significant
stock of votive candles, not to mention the preparation for the burial of
statues of
certain saints and the solicitation of the services of a priest of uncertain
credentials
and yet very certain fees, I am relieved.  Relieved that I may spend my time
on more
productive pursuits, but alas, a bit sad to realize that source of
considerable
entertainment has passed on..... / Curtis Crowell





Article 14886 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Mice
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>Has any one ever had Mice enter there hive's with Entrance Reducers
>installed.

did one winter and didn't even know it till spring, they stung him to death and
propolized him, found the gruesome mummy after scraping away a very huge wad of
propolis i found when changing around hive bodies.


Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


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From: amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 21:06:16 -0800
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So, Paul, would you similarly deny the historicity of the following 
account about Caesar?



                   Caesar's death was partly due to his clemency and 
impatience, which, in combination, were dangerous for his personal 
security. Caesar had not hesitated to commit atrocities against 
"barbarians" when it had suited him, but he was almost consistently 
magnanimous in his treatment of his defeated Roman opponents. Thus 
clemency was probably not just a matter of policy. Caesar's earliest 
experience in his political career had been Sulla's implacable 
persecution of his defeated domestic opponents.
                   Caesar amnestied his opponents wholesale and gave a 
number of them responsible positions in his new regime. Gaius Cassius 
Longinus, who was the moving spirit in the plot to murder him, and Marcus 
Junius Brutus, the symbolic embodiment of Roman republicanism, were both 
former enemies. "Et tu, Brute" ("You too, Brutus") was Caesar's 
expression of his particular anguish at being stabbed by a man whom he
had forgiven, trusted, and loved. 
http://www.eb.com:180/cgi-bin/g?DocF=macro/5000/95.html


In article <19981104022447.10513.00003861@ng118.aol.com>, skep615@aol.com 
says...
>  but there is a BIG difference between
> "history" ("historical example") and religious or spiritual or scriptural
> narrative, regardless the degree to which the latter depends on verifiable
> facts.
> 
>


Article 14888 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: jvanbreda@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: cheap varroa strips A WARNING
Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 09:31:58 GMT
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In article <909896038.81082@ridge.spiritone.com>,
  "gene/janice" <e-jeve@spiritone.com> wrote:
> Talked to a Professer of Entomology from state college (no name) last
> evening about fluvalinate strips from China. He says they have not been
> approved in this country so should not use. Later said that because of the
> price they are very widely used in Thialand when he was visiting there.
>
> Just some food for thought.
>
> Gene in Ore.

Some further food for thought.	If the cheap chinese Varroa strips are more
variable in terms of the actual concentration of active chemical, which I'm
sure is quite likely, then there is a big problem using them.  Treating a
colony with a weaker chemical solution than intended will wipe out only some
of the mites, leaving behind the ones which are more resistant to treatment.
These go on to breed - YOU ARE BREEDING RESISTANT VARROA!!!  Please, please,
please refrain from using uncertified treatments as in the long run it will
be more expensive for all of us! This also applies to the suggestion re
cutting strips up into smaller pieces - it doesn't work!

John

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Article 14889 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: Re: Killer Bees = Demon Possessed Bees. Scientific Rsrch Fndngs.
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On 5 Nov 1998 01:49:55 GMT, "C.R. Crowell" <Curtiscrow@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:

  Having just readied myself to acquire a
>significant
>stock of votive candles, 

Why not make your own?  Bees wax is very good for this, you know!
--
KJ@jaf.nildramNOSPAM.co.uk
Ay, thanks for the report;
we'll break the (l)user's legs today.
Or at least cancel his accounts


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> > What's the consensus of practice out there? For the record I have
> > always used FOUR strips, one each between frames 3
> > & 4 and between 7 & 8, both upper and lower super, and haven't had any
> > problems

Depending on the time of year and other factors, this may be more than
necessary, and since Apistan is a pesticide that does have some effects on
bees above certain doses, may lead to some problems eventually.  Maybe not.

My understanding is that 2 strips should be enough if placed in the brood area
such that all the bees have good contact.  In the case of double brood
chambers, there will not be brood in all frames, so it is necessary to know
where the brood is.  That is where the bees will congregate in cooler moments.

If the strips are placed near the outer walls, then the bees will be often
out of contact with them at night.  That is not necessarily bad, but for
consistent results, the strips should be placed where the bees rub on them
through the entire treatment period.

> > Also, handling these strips with rubber gloves is awful clumsy and slow,
> > but I did it this year anyway, instead of just using my bare hands (I
> > don't generally use gloves) as in all years past.  Does anybody know how
> > harmful exposure to fluvalinate to people/skin really is?

Why find out the hard way?  Dish washing gloves are cheap and easy to find.
Clumsy?  Not these ones.  The large, hard chemical handling gloves are not
suited to working with the strips, but the dish washing gloves are quite good.
My favourite are the blue ones from Wal-Mart that cost a couple of bucks, but
you can get 10 pair from Costco for about $6 or so.  Suprisingly, they aren't
too bad for bee gloves in a pinch -- bonus!  I am not certain that they are
totally impermeable to fluvalinate, but have not noticed any problems.  maybe
there are experts out there who can say.  What is also important is to remove
them properly, so that the inside of one glove is not contaminated by the
fingers of the other hand.

My understanding is that fluvalinate may not bother some individuals, but may
really irritate others, and of course there is no sense adding to the chemical
accumulation in your body by absorbing the grease soluble pesticide through
your skin.  Moreover, if you happen to use those same hands for smoking or
eating, you are asking to ingest the chemical.

Allen

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I'm looking for purchasing a canadian or québec bee farm.
If you know somebody how sell his bee farm, please give me the address.
Thank you in advance.


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From: "Philip Hempel" <beeyard@ibm.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: New Online Beekeeping Store Opens
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 15:01:23 -0500
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Blossomland Supply announces today that it's long anticipated secure
webstore will be online this month. The webstore at www.blossomland.com will
offer over 900+ items to the be securely order online.  Using Visa or
Mastercard with Blossomland's online store will be secure and safe.  No
information is stored on the server thus no unauthorized requests for
information can be obtained.

Everything from beekeeping books, equipment, Pierco Frames and Foundations
to honey and honey candy.  And most of what is in between!!

Check us out today and watch the progress!

Phil Hempel
beeyard@blossomland.com




Article 14893 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Subject: oils for varroa??
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Are using essential oil treatments for varroa mites breeding resistant 
mites or contaminating honey? do these treatments harm the bees?



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From: "John Cook" <jcook@cerulean.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: newbee questions here
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Sorry in advance if these are really lame questions, but everyone has to
start somewhere...

1. I saw the online store site mentioned earlier. They have a starter kit.
Does this kit contain everything that you really need to get started or is
it a $125 that requires an additional $500 worth of stuff to really get
started? This kit doesn't have any sort of suit: just a hood. Is a suit just
a luxury item?

2. Is there a place were you can get mail order bees or at least a queen?
When you get your queen, what is to keep her from just flying away and
setting up house somewhere else? Do bees come in different strains?  If so,
is there a good strain for beginners?

3. Africanized bees are in the news again. I guess they have made their way
into the southwest united states. I live in Boston. How long will it be
before they reach me? Do they take over domestic beehives? What do you do to
get rid of them?

4. I am planning on starting a modest hive. What is the best time of year to
start one? Do you need to supply your own flowering plants? If so, how much
for a small hive?

5. My grandmother use to tell me stories about her father who kept bees. She
said that his bees would wonder off, and he would have to go collect them
from time to time. He would use a stick wrapped with cheesecloth soaked in
syrup to collect them. Is this common?

6. What is the time requirement for keeping a small hive? How often do you
visit the hive?

7. Do people ever get sick from eating their own honey?





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From: wyatt@oeuvre.com (Eugene Wyatt)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: 0 to 60 in Beekeeping
Date: 6 Nov 1998 07:51:01 -0600
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Hello all

My name is Eugene Wyatt.  I am a farmer and I run 500 Merino sheep in 
upstate New York.  I want to make commercial mead (for sale) from honey I 
produce.  I have no experience with bees or beekeeping and I would like to 
learn as much as I can, as fast as I can about commercial honey production. 
Some recommendations please:

1) How would you best approach this project
2) Books and other educational materials
3) Suppliers of bees and equipment
4) Advice, *do's and don't's*
	a. types of bees for my local
	b. cheaper to buy or to make honey
	c. where can one buy honey, prices
	d. Dangers/mistakes to be wary of
	e. ?...

Thanks for your input.

Eugene

Australian Superfine Merino Sheep
    Swan Lake, New York  USA
 http://www.zelacom.com/~wyatt/



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 "John Cook" <jcook@cerulean.com> wrote:
>
>7. Do people ever get sick from eating their own honey?
>

Provided one is not allergic to some substance in the honey when ingested (such
as pollen or the natural chemicals producing the aroma or microscopic bee
hairs) and provided one is not diabetic (honey is mostly sugar), then the risks
are small. However, there are some plants (fortunately few in North America)
whose nectar produces poisonous honey. Mountain Laurel is the worst offender in
the USA. A teaspoon of Mountain Laurel honey may produce numbness and loss of
consciousness for several hours acording to research by E.L. Atkins (1992).
Fortunately, it is possible to move hives to a new location during Mountain
Laurel bloom and thus avoid having your bees collect the nectar.

In most areas in temperate climate, poisonous honeys do not occur. But you
should talk to other beekeepers or agriculture extension agents in your area to
be sure about your own locale.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


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This reminds me fondly of a folkways book written in the 1920's which mentioned
this fact, and stated that the best way to know was after the mountain laural
flow was to fed a comb to the dog, if after a few hours it had not went into
convulsions, then it was ok to fed the honey to  your kids and wife.   Life was
so simple before FDA.

Bob Pursley


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John Cook <jcook@cerulean.com> wrote in article
<71uk74$8n3$1@ligarius.ultra.net>...
> Sorry in advance if these are really lame questions, but everyone has to
> start somewhere...
Best start will be to read a beekeeping handbook.  This will give you some
hind what bees do and what beekeepers do.  Beekeeping is not very
difficult, but without any know how your start will end in a mess.  Books
are perfect to get basic know how.
Or, get a human mentor and learn from him.

To answer some of your questions: 

> 1. I saw the online store site mentioned earlier. They have a starter
kit.
> Does this kit contain everything that you really need to get started or
is
> it a $125 that requires an additional $500 worth of stuff to really get
> started? This kit doesn't have any sort of suit: just a hood. Is a suit
just
> a luxury item?
The starter kit is a joke.  It's like starting a italian restaurant by
buying a package of Kraft dinner.  It won't last for long.
If you realy want to start beekeeping be prepared to spend at least 500
bucks more, but keep in mind that beekeeping is the only hobby which pay
back money by selling honey.
You need at least 1 complete hive (I started with 3, only 1 is not a good
idea for many reasons).  A complete hive is in my eyes a bottom board, 2
broodchambers, 1 honey compartment and a lit.  Even if you don't need the
honey compartment and the 2nd brood chamber to start a hive, it will take a
few weeks in spring and you will desperatly need them. Also it is a good
idea to have a spare hive for catching swarms. Then you need decapper and
extractor to harvest your honey and other stuff to process honey. Not now,
but soon.  Otherwise the honey in the hive will leave unsufficient space
for the bees and then they swarm.  
To work on the bees a hood, smoker, hive tool and a pair of gloves is fine.
 A suit is OK but not essential.  It is more protection for your clothes. 
If you want to save money, here you can do it.
 
> 2. Is there a place were you can get mail order bees or at least a queen?
> When you get your queen, what is to keep her from just flying away and
> setting up house somewhere else? Do bees come in different strains?  If
so,
> is there a good strain for beginners?

Start with a local strain.  They will be suitable for your region.
And, you can't start a hive with only a queen --> read a book why!

> 
> 3. Africanized bees are in the news again. I guess they have made their
way
> into the southwest united states. I live in Boston. How long will it be
> before they reach me? Do they take over domestic beehives? What do you do
to
> get rid of them?

Shouldn't be a problem in Boston, neither become one in the future.  To far
north for them (see discussion earlier this week about the demon-bees, not
the initial posting but the URL in it).

> 5. My grandmother use to tell me stories about her father who kept bees.
She
> said that his bees would wonder off, and he would have to go collect them
> from time to time. He would use a stick wrapped with cheesecloth soaked
in
> syrup to collect them. Is this common?

Part one is true.  Bees swarm occasionally and you have to catch the swarm
(see details in books for why and how).  Part two sounds like a tale to me.

> 6. What is the time requirement for keeping a small hive? How often do
you
> visit the hive?

You have to check a hive once a week during the season to check for health,
brood, honey and swarm cells.  In winter you shouldn't open the hive.  To
check a full hive a beginner might need 30-40 min.?
 
> 7. Do people ever get sick from eating their own honey?

Honey is food and must be processed like food.  Clean!
Other reasons like poison honey and allergies are exotic or not restricted
to your own honey.

I would suggest that you get contact with a local beekeeper or beekeepers
club for practical advice and, more important read something about bees and
beekeeping to get an idea what is going on inside a hive and what work you
can expect before starting your own hive.





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>Some recommendations please:
>
>1) How would you best approach this project
>2) Books and other educational materials
>3) Suppliers of bees and equipment
>4) Advice, *do's and don't's*
>	a. types of bees for my local
>	b. cheaper to buy or to make honey
>	c. where can one buy honey, prices
>	d. Dangers/mistakes to be wary of
>	e. ?...
>
>Thanks for your input.
1. slowly since mead needs to age at least 3 yrs before drinking, 5 yrs is
better

2. there are many i-net sites just search, try library for books, also call
1-800-beeswax
for a super catalog

3. 1-800-beeswax
4. read all you can then mail me back, be glad to help but you need a basic
knowledge.
b,c,d. if all you are going to do is make mead, then you're better off buying
your honey from local beekeepers, then the only hassle you have is with the
mead process.

hope this helps, l8r
Kevin Johnson, Big Johnson Beekeeping, Lillington NC


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From: beetim@budget.net (tim)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Oxytetracycline residues in honey.
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 19:48:07 GMT
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  A Reference i haven't access to but would be of interest.
Matsuka, M., and Nakamura, K. (1990) Oxytetracycline residues in honey
and royal jelly. Journal of Apicultural Research 29:112-117.  
 
 I note that while meats are given a tolerance
level [21CFR 556.500 : (The corrections or additions to the January 15,
1996 list were made in November 1996)] , honey is only mentioned
in the withdrawal and application sections.(US)

  As of 1994 the US gov knew no method for testing
other than for general antibacterial properties. As far
as i can find, there is none yet. Nor limit guides.
http://www.fda.gov/cvm/fda/os/tocosar95.html
  
  For those interested in testing labs that deal with
honey the National Honey Board keeps a list of
various labs and methods. As of a few of weeks
ago it was alliable by snail mail only.

  While i hear form the grapevine it is almost a non issue
due to its half life in the presence of moisture and/or heat,
I find no references in print applying this to honey. tim


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As mentioned,  You have a computer so make you own. 
You can get copywrite free graphics from many sources
to include the National Honey board.   (check out their
webb site)
Pick something you like, do in up and take it to your
local discount office supply store (Office Depot)  We
use black ink on a gold foil label.  We print our logo,
company name, address, Phone and weight.  It runs about
$33 per 500 labels (It might have been for 1000)  turn
around time is about 5 working days.

Note that it is a requiorement to have your name and a
contact on the label either address and or phone
number. weights must be in US and metric.  1 pint jar
holds about 1 pound of honey = 450g, 12oz bear = 340g,
1 quart jar holds 2.5 lbs or 1.13kg.

The weights must be consistant. If you label the jar in
volume pint,quart then the metric need to be liter.  If
you label by weight the use grams and kilograms.  The
is a webb site www. massgrown.org used to have a copy
of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services
Food labeling guide.  The guide spells out the type
size requirements for various labels.  For example the
weight must be a certain proportion to the area of the
label.  We use a 2 by 3 label or 6 sq.in.  The min type
size is 1/8in or 3.2mm.

A easier way to solve your problem is to fax a copy to
your states Comsumer Protection Office.  In Georgia it
is part of our Agriculture Department. I faxed them the
label, they told us what to change (ie 2.5lbs to 2lbs
8oz) and told us the metric weight weight to use. they
then gave us a letter of approval on the label. They
were more than willing to help and we have the
confidence to our retailers that the label and
botteling is up to the State standards.

It sound like a lot but it only took 2 days to do it
all.

Hope this helps.... Al Welk Atlanta, GA

Michael Scott Meiners wrote:
> 
> I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
> the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
> sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
> -Mike


Article 14902 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: newbee questions here
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   Has anybody directly experianced poisoning from moutain laurel honey or is
it all theory and hearsay?
   Seems to me the rest of the years blooming plants would make this somewhat
dilute.


Article 14903 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Jorn Johanesson" <apimo@apimo.dk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: BeeKeeping Software
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 02:45:59 +0100
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Pa Beeman skrev i meddelelsen
<19981101114150.10603.00002504@ng-fb2.aol.com>...
>Does any one know of any software for beekeeping.

try:

try www.apimo.dk  or http://home4.inet.tele.dk/apimo or
http://wn.com.au/apimo

hivenotesoftware for beekeeping and queenbreading, pollensoftware and some
pollenpictures.


best regards

Jorn Johanesson
apimo@apimo.dk
apimo@post4.inet.tele.dk
apimo@wn.com.au






Article 14904 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: skep615@aol.com (SKEP615)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Demon Possession digression
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amschelp@pe.net (Peter Amschel) wrote:
>
>So, Paul, would you similarly deny the historicity of the following 
>account about Caesar?

This is the wrong forum to continue this discussion, Peter. I have answered via
personal e-mail.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Paul Kent Oakley
The Sabine Farm
Ava, Illinois (85 miles SE of St.Louis)

send any e-mail to me at:   YELKAO615  at  AOL dot COM

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Article 14905 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: "Michael Simics" <msimics@direct.ca>
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
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Hello Mike,  I am in the process of getting new honey labels for myself. I
was lucky enough to meet a beekeeper who is a graphic artist and we are
collaborating to put together some pretty spiffy labels- full color no less
, the peel and stick type ( I know there is an industry word for that but
it escapes me now).  Send me your address and I will send you a sample when
they are done.  We are hoping to make them available at Apimondia 99  in
Vancouver, Canada.  This is really exciting for me as in the past I hand
made labels.  I am no artist and the closest compliment I got was   "Oh,
you made these yourself !"

Darlene
dags@lightspeed.bc.ca

Michael Scott Meiners <meinerms@email.uc.edu> wrote in article
<4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>...
> I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back
in
> the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
> sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
> -Mike
> 
> 
> 


Article 14906 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: jcaldeira@earthlink.net (John Caldeira)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Apian technology(queens)
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 17:48:47 GMT
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"Flemming Rasmussen" <flemmin_@post10.tele.dk> wrote:
>Is there any one who had tried "Apian technology Queens breeding
>system"?.The company are from New Zealand. Is it god?Does it have any "dark"
>sides?Do it keep what thei promise in there comerserial?
>
>Regards Flemming Rasmussen .Denmark.
> flemmin_@post10.tele.dk

Apian's queen rearing kit seems very similar to the Jenter queen
rearing kit from Germany.  I haven't used Apian's kit, but the Jenter
kit is a good way to raise queens without learning to graft larva.

The cell plug queen rearing method is described on my website (URL
below).   

Here in the U.S., The Apian kit sells for more than twice the cost of
the Jenter kit, but perhaps it has some advantage. 

Cheers,
John


John Caldeira
Dallas, Texas            jcaldeira@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~jcaldeira/beekeeping/



Article 14907 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: adamf@golux.radix.net (Adam Finkelstein)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Toxic Honey (was Re: newbee questions here)
Date: 7 Nov 1998 06:45:16 -0000
Organization: Self-Organized.      Dig that.
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In article <19981106181208.17259.00004880@ng125.aol.com>,
BeeCrofter <beecrofter@aol.com> wrote:
>   Has anybody directly experianced poisoning from moutain laurel honey or is
>it all theory and hearsay?
>   Seems to me the rest of the years blooming plants would make this somewhat
>dilute.

Our lab at Virginia Tech had the last recorded USA finding of Honey from
_Kalmia_ _latifolia_ (Mountain Laurel).

The following is a letter from the bee-l that Dr. Rick Fell wrote regarding
these findings and on toxic honey in general.

___________________________________________________________________________

Date:         Fri, 4 Aug 1995 16:55:03 -0400
Reply-To:     Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU>
Sender:       Discussion of Bee Biology <BEE-L@UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU>
From:         Rick Fell <rfell@VT.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Honey and Bee History query

Diane:
In reference to your query I can offer a few comments since we have
recently done some work with honey containing naturally toxic compounds.
First, the reference to toxic bees may be somewhat misleading, unless they
are referring to the sting. However, honey bees have been used in warfare,
dating as far back as Roman times.  There are for example, references to
the Romans loading bee hives on catapults and firing them at their
enemies.  Other records can be found from the Middle Ages, where various
armies threw bee hives at their attackers - especially off of castle
walls, and on up through World War I and Vietnam.  A good reference for
for this topic is "Insects in Warfare" by John Ambrose (published in Army
24(12):33-38.)

With regard to toxic honey, there is also a long history.  One of the
earliest references comes from the writings of the Greek Xenophon
(approx.  400 B.C.) who described the effects of soldiers eating a toxic
honey.  The incident occurred in what is now Turkey.  The soldiers were
returning to Greece from a campaign in the Persian Empire, encountered the
hives and robbed them of their honey.  Xenophon indicated that the
soldiers who consumed the honey lost thier senses, and were inflicted with
"vomiting and purging".  A later reference indicates that the honey of
that region was also used against soldiers of the Roman army under
Pompey.  The Heptakometes left jars of the honey along the roadside as a
"tribute" to some of the advancing army.  The soldiers who ate the honey
lost their senses and were easily defeated by the Heptakometes.  The
source of this toxic honey in the Middle East is probably Rhondodendron
ponticum, although R. luteum could also be a source.  A good reference to
the toxic honey of this region is Sutlupinar et al. 1993. Poisoning by
toxic honey in Turkey, Arch. Toxicol. 67:148-150.

There are several references to toxic honeys in the US.  The earliest
record of which I am aware dates back to Philadelphia in 1790, when a
child died from eating honey.  There are also references from the Civil
War and from the 1940's and 1960's.  The most recent report is the one we
found here in Virginia.  A beekeeper became violently ill after comsuming
some honey from his hives and ended up spending 6 days in the local
hospital.  We were contacted about the possibility of the honey causing
the problems and subsequently analyzed the honey.  We found two
grayanotoxins (primarily nerve toxins that lead to a prolonged
depolarization of the nerve)  in the honey in sufficient levels to cause
very serious medical problems.  Based on the time of year, the area in
which the honey was made, and the toxins, we believe the source was Kalmia
latifolia (Mountain laurel).  This type of toxic honey is not common but
seems to be reported once about every 20 or 30 years.

There are a number of other plants that produce nectars with various
toxins.  Some of these include Yellow jassamine, tansy ragwort, and
Egyptian henbane. If you would like more infromation on plants and
specific toxins, please let me know.  Hope this answers some of your
questions.

Rick Fell
__________________________________________________________________________

his email is rfell@vt.edu


Since _Kalmia_ spp. produces nectar when most other honey-flow nectar is
produces in huge quantities, the chances of "making" poisoned honey as a
beekeeper are very slim. Still, if you suspect your honey, get it tested. 

Adam
-- 
Adam Finkelstein                   
adamf@vt.edu              
http://sunsite.unc.edu/bees/adamf


Article 14908 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Toxic Honey (was Re: newbee questions here)
Lines: 9
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>Since _Kalmia_ spp. produces nectar when most other honey-flow nectar is
>produces in huge quantities, the chances of "making" poisoned honey as a
>beekeeper are very slim. Still, if you suspect your honey, get it tested. 

Sounds like good sense to me
In the meantime I will worry more about getting burned by the smoker or
wrenching my back lifting hives.

Tom


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From: beecrofter@aol.com (BeeCrofter)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
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Betterbee has a good selection
The skep label looks nice on a mason jar.


Article 14910 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: workerbee <dvisrael@earthlink.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Blue Honey
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 10:18:00 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------FCC7AF0DA4F7D0B0BEF0B1DC
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have recieved a lot of mail asking about blue honey. Thanks to all.
Most just want to know about it, so I am sending thia along.

--------------FCC7AF0DA4F7D0B0BEF0B1DC
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii; name="Blue honey.htm"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="Blue honey.htm"
Content-Base: "file:///C|/My%20Documents/Blue%20honey
	.htm"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
   <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
   <META NAME="Author" CONTENT="workerbee">
   <META NAME="GENERATOR" CONTENT="Mozilla/4.06 [en] (Win95; I) [Netscape]">
   <TITLE>My Web Page</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<FONT SIZE=+2><FONT COLOR="#000099">Blue Honey&nbsp;</FONT><FONT COLOR="#33CCFF"></FONT></FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Blue honey has a fairly strong
flavor and is so dark it is hard to see through.The best way to view it
is to put a few drops on a white saucer. No one knows for sure what makes
it blue. Several ideas are tossed about but it seems to happen when we
have a really good bloom of sourwood here in Eastern North Carolina. The
honey I have was produced in Macclesfield, NC about 80 miles east of Raleigh.
No other beekeepers in our association reported getting any. The bees only
make it every five or ten years and it is spotty then. There are reports
of some being made last year in South Carolina.</FONT></FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

--------------FCC7AF0DA4F7D0B0BEF0B1DC--




Article 14911 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: allend@internode.net
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Aging Mead
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 15:56:53 GMT
Organization: Deja News - The Leader in Internet Discussion
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In article <19981106161558.15692.00000166@ng113.aol.com>,
  hk1beeman@aol.com (Hk1BeeMan) or someone claiming to be him wrote:

> 1. slowly since mead needs to age at least 3 yrs before drinking, 5 yrs is
> better

Hmmmm.	I've been making and drinking meaqd for many years now, and cannot
agree with this.  A good mead is drinkable in as little as two months.	The
trick is to use an adequate amount of yeast nutrient, since meads may 'stick'
for months and months otherwise.  300-400 ml (g) per 40 imp gallons seems
right when making a 15% (dry) mead.  (This is *way* more than other beverages
require and will raise eyebrows at your local wine supply store, but ignore
that and trust me.  And BTW, they are not going to like you much, since you
won't be spending much money there -- you'll only need yeast, acid blend,
dibasic ammonium phosphate (nutrient), and -- if you are feeling rich -- some
energizer).  Saccaromyses bayanus (Lalvin EC1118) is the yeast of choice.

Granted, at this young stage (several months), the mead may be murky.  This
is easily overcome by the eager early taster (imbiber) if the mead portion
for drinking is stored in the refrigerator for a week or so before drinking
to stop the yeasts and allow them to drop out.

After 5 months or so, it should be pretty well finished and can be filtered
(recommended - rent a filter at your local wine supply store) and then is
prime for drinking.  Aging can improve it, but no one complains about mine at
that point and it is hard to keep it long enuff to say what it would be like
after a year or two. :)

> if all you are going to do is make mead, then you're better off buying
> your honey from local beekeepers, then the only hassle you have is with the
> mead process.

True.  And you get to choose the honey that way.  My advise: buy the nicest,
cleanest, mildest, whitest honey you can find.  Then experiment with the
varietals.  Buckwheat makes a dynamite mead, for example, but start with white
and mild.

Allen

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 14912 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
From: steven.turner@zbee.com (Steven Turner)
To: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Apinet (beekeeping education network) 
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Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 16:48:24 GMT
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Apinet-L mailing list has undergone software changes which means
information on how to join "Apinet" is now incorrect and need to
be updated by owners of beekeeping web sites.
To Subscribe to Apinet you send a message to:
mailserver@zbee.com
    Subject: <leave blank>
MessageBody: subscribe apinetL

Or send a message to:
apinetL@zbee.com

     Subject: subscribe
 Messagebody: <leave blank>

Any queries E-mail sysop@zbee.com







STEVEN TURNER 
G6LPF Beekeeper/gardener Sysop of ZBeeNet BBS. 
http://www.beeman.dircon.co.uk/ 
Email: beeman@zbee.com

... Platinum Xpress & Wildcat!..... Nice!!!!


Article 14913 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: pabeeman@aol.com (Pa Beeman)
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Honey Recipe
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Does any one have a good home made ice-cream recipe with honey.


                                                          Thanks Pa Beeman


Article 14914 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Bill Greenrose <bill.greenrose@valley.net>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: to wrap or not to wrap?
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 18:41:24 -0500
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greetings, all.

in this month's issue of bee culture brad kurtz gives a number of
reasons why wrapping a hive is not a good idea.  these include reduced
air flow and subsequent increase of moisture to harmful levels.  for the
same reasons he advises not to use an entrance reducer.   next week i'll
be removing the apistan strips and putting the girls to bed for the
winter.  i was planning to wrap my 2 hives in tar paper [roofing felt]
like i did last year.  but, now i'm not so sure. so, i thought i'd ask
the group for opinions.

personally, i'm not so sure it's a good idea.  here in new hampshire it
gets fairly cold.  last winter i noticed that on bright sunny days, when
the air temp was only in the teens or 20's, my bees would come out for
cleansing flights.  it was cold enough, that many of them never made it
back to the hive, dropping to the snow and melting little graves into
it.  not trying to over emotionalize this, and i know that the colony
population declines naturally through a good portion of the winter,
until the new brood mature.  but, it seems that the bees might have been
fooled into thinking it was warmer out than it really was, from the
heating of the hive by bright sun on black tar paper.  thus, more died
outside the hive than should have.  i do think that an entrance reducer
makes sense for the winter, since the normal opening is a lot larger
than the bees normally maintain in the wild, and the reducer probably
helps cut the wind whipping into the hive.  but, given brad's arguments
in his article [applying the physics of heat transfer and air flow] and
my own observations, i'm inclined not to wrap my hives this year.

any body have any opinions?

bill

##########################################

don't shoot me, i'm only the guitar player

bill.greenrose@valley.net [home]
greenros@medicalmedia.com [work]
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1397




Article 14915 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Bill Greenrose wrote:
> 
> in this month's issue of bee culture brad kurtz gives a number of
> reasons why wrapping a hive is not a good idea.  these include reduced
> air flow and subsequent increase of moisture to harmful levels.  for the
> same reasons he advises not to use an entrance reducer.   

Everything is a balence.. give and take...Entrance reducers will limit
air flow. But they also discourage mice from moving in. The most
important thing is to have the upper entrance open to let moisture out
if you wrap.

> gets fairly cold.  last winter i noticed that on bright sunny days, when
> the air temp was only in the teens or 20's, my bees would come out for
> cleansing flights.  it was cold enough.

Here in Canada the biggest benifit I think that comes from wrapping and
insulating hives is that it keeps sharp temperature changes from
catching the bees off guard. It can go from 0 to 35 below in a 12-24
hour period.


> fooled into thinking it was warmer out than it really was, from the
> heating of the hive by bright sun on black tar paper.  thus, more died
> outside the hive than should have. 

I have only been keeping bees for ten years, and consistently the more I
learn the more I realize how little I know. I always check with
neighboring beekeepers to see what has worked historically, then I make
my decision..I will say that we do not see that many bees frozen in
front of our hives. For the most part they seem to have a system that
works, to get them through winter. When we have a deadout we always find
them inside the hive, never frozen in the snow. 

They make cleansing flights even in our climate and most make it back to
the hive. Dead bees are removed all winter on nice days, and because
they are dark they will make melted spots in the snow even though they 
are already dead.
> 
> any body have any opinions?
> 
Lastly these are only opinions from a colder climate than you seem to
reside in. So it is probably a different game there. I will say though
that when we try to winter indoors ( maybe closer to a climate like
yours with bees wrapped) we are not as successful as wintering outside.


Hugh Tait
Boschman Hughes Apiaries

 "When the going gets weird... the weird turn pro"         Hunter S.
Thompson


Article 14916 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Tom Speight <Tom@tomsp8.demon.co.uk>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: extracters
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 23:48:59 +0000
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In article <3646378E.2EAB@kingston.net>, Kent Stienburg
<beeman@kingston.net> writes
>My question is if there are 10 frames in a box
>why do the popular hobby extracters come in sizes of 4, 6,9,12? Why not
>5,10 15? 
I think the main reason is working out the angle to set evenly between
frame holders to keep the balance right. 
It's much easier to set 90, 60, 40, or 30 degrees than 72, 36, or 24
degrees when doing assmbly line type production.
If you DIY and are prepared to set up your own angles there is no reason
why not. Some of the industrial types take 20 frames or more.
Regards
-- 
Tom S


Article 14917 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: elizc@my-dejanews.com
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Re: Honey Labels
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 22:10:56 GMT
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> Michael Scott Meiners wrote in message
> <4w8%1.421$CM.2615@newsfeed.slurp.net>...
> >I've finaly run out of honey jar labels which my dad bought in bulk back in
> >the 80's.  I'm looking to but some more but I can not find anybody that
> >sells them.  Any suggestions on where to look?  Thanks,
> >-Mike

Hi!

I don't keep bees yet but am just starting to gather info. I have a tip about
labels that might interest some of you. My husband brews beer, and we make
labels by printing (laser printer, copy machine, whatever) our labels on
regular copier paper and adhering them to the glass bottles by painting the
back with milk. It really works! And they come off easily just by soaking
them.

We happen to use 1% or 2% milk since that's what we have. I can't remember if
skim will work or not.

fwiw,
Liz
elizc@my-dejanews.com

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    


Article 14918 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Pavel Goberman <getfit@pcez.com>
Newsgroups: sci.agriculture.beekeeping
Subject: Killer Bees?
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 22:57:17 -0800
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Killer Bees? People who created this expression do not know the biology
of bees,and have no experience how to work with bees,how manage them.
  Pavel Goberman    mailto:getfit@getenergized.com


Article 14919 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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From: Simon Morris & Wanda Douglas <si-wand@ihug.co.nz>
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Subject: Re: Beekeeping question
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You need to make sure that when you transfer the bees into the new home,
that you also transfer the queen.  To ensure that she remains in the
hive long enough to "settle in", block the entrance for a short time.
The majority of the bees will be gathering around her in a protective
'cocoon' so she should be quite easy to spot.

Hope that helps; I think I am probably telling you what you already
know  ... I probably can't assist more than that!



mmoktan wrote:

>   I have set up several beehives at home. Some bees seem to not want
> to stay in a new hive set up for them. I brought in new bees and set
> them up in a new hive. But they seem to leave. Is this a problem that
> can be solved? Any information could be helpful. Hridai.



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You need to make sure that when you transfer the bees into the new home,
that you also transfer the queen.&nbsp; To ensure that she remains in the
hive long enough to "settle in", block the entrance for a short time.&nbsp;
The majority of the bees will be gathering around her in a protective 'cocoon'
so she should be quite easy to spot.

<P>Hope that helps; I think I am probably telling you what you already
know&nbsp; ... I probably can't assist more than that!
<BR>&nbsp;
<BR>&nbsp;

<P>mmoktan wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;&nbsp;<FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>I
have set up several beehives at home. Some bees seem to not want to stay
in a new hive set up for them. I brought in new bees and set them up in
a new hive. But they seem to leave. Is this a problem that can be solved?
Any information could be helpful.</FONT></FONT>&nbsp;<FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Hridai.</FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;
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</HTML>

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Article 14920 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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Wanda Douglas wrote:

> I know that the majority of New Zealand beekeepers do not heat their honey
> when transferring it from the hive to the jar.  As far as I know, most is
> removed from the frames by centrifugal force, and simply drips down to the vat
> where it is piped into containers for selling.

If the honey is piped, likely it is pumped. If it is pumped, it is heated.  Honey
is too viscous to be pumped without heating.

> If the honey is to be creamed,
> common policy here is that it is heated to a high temperature for but a few
> short seconds, then cooled quickly.  This ensures that the crystals that are
> formed are small, and that the honey doesn't granulate.

Crystals *are* granulation.

Kathy



Article 14921 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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does anyone know  how long it takes for bees to stuff themselves before
swarming?  a matter of minutes, a whole day?  Do they have extensive
preparations before they take off to find a new hive?  Is it usually
about half the bees in an overcrowded colony who take off- or less than
half- or more than half?  Will they only usually swarm in spring- to
early summer?  Will they swarm in mid-summer?  Do they usually only
swarm on warm sunny days?  Will they swarm on cool cloudy days that look
like rain?  Will they swarm on windy days?  Will they swarm after dark? 
Are they more likely to swarm in the morning or evening or at the
hottest part of the day?

I know that's a lot of questions.  I have found a lot of general
information on swarms on the internet but nothing that covers all these
specifics.  Thanks very much to anyone who can answer a few or all of
these questions, or who can direct me to a location or book title which
has such specific information.  Thank you.

Tamara


Article 14922 of sci.agriculture.beekeeping:
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