MOE GREEN'S LAWN CARE (from a rodent's view)

I am a woodland creature who frequents the gardener's property. 
His lawn is healthy.  A thick, healthy lawn won't have as many
problems, so the trick is maintenance.     

WATERING
This morning, I watched the gardener place a can on his lawn and
start the sprinkler.  When the can measures about 3 cm of water,
he moves the sprinkler.  He does this one morning a week during
dry spells.  Morning watering allows the sun to dry the leaves
because dampness encourages disease. Remember to follow the water
restrictions.  

FERTILIZING
The gardener fertilizes a couple of times in the spring but never
after mid-July.  Late fertilizing encourages growth during
drought conditions making the grass weak.  The fertilizer should
have a high nitrogen content (that's the first number of the
three). 21-7-7 would be fine.  Plants don't care if the
fertilizer is chemical or organic base, but chemical fertilizers
will leave salts in the soil that taste bad. 

MOWING
From the bushes, I watched the gardener unscrew the lawn mower
blade and file it sharp.  Grass cut with a sharp mower blade
heals faster and prevent disease.  He keeps the mower high (about
4-6 cm) to get strong roots.  He never removes more than 1/3 of
the grass blade.  If the grass clippings are light, they can be
left on the lawn to become future fertilizer.  I stay away when I
hear the lawn mower.

DETHATCHING & AERATING
Last fall he rented equipment to dethatch and aerate the lawn. 
Dethatching removes the dead leafs, stems and roots that build up
on the lawn.  The thatch prevents water from getting to the roots
and is a great place for disease to start.  He removes the thatch
if it's greater than 1" thick.

The aerator walked across the lawn taking plugs, about the size
of corks, out of the ground.  This breaks up the compacted soil. 
I do the same thing when I dig, but this is much faster.  The
plugs disappear after a couple of rains.  Then he rakes some
topsoil into the lawn and seeds.   This is the easy way to
renovate a lawn.
WEEDS
I like to nibble on clover in lawn.  It stays green all summer
and adds nitrogen to the soil.  A few weeds in the lawn are
tolerable.  The gardener battles the weeds by having a lawn so
thick that weeds cannot get in.  If the weeds get out of hand he
sprays them with an appropriate herbicide.  I stay home when I
see him with the rubber boots and gloves.   

WHITE GRUBS
There were lots of white grubs to eat last winter.  The birds
also like to ate them.  The skunks did alot of damage digging up
the grubs to eat.  If you see any grubs, pick them out by hand. 
Fish bait?  Pesticides will not affect them in the spring, so
don't poison my grub.  They will be pupating soon, so damage will
be minor.  In late June the beetle flies and lays eggs. The
beetle taste good but it's crunchy.  The larva is most vulnerable
about mid-July, that's the time to spray, if you have too.  Make
sure you water the lawn before and after spraying.

CHINCH BUG
I have no interest in the Chinch Bug.  They are too small to make
a meal.  The only way to find chinch bug is to cutoff both ends
of a can and force one end into the ground.  Fill the can with
water and the bugs will float to the surface.

HERBICIDES, INSECTICIDE & FUNGICIDE
Chemicals cannot be expected to make up for lack of fertility,
poor soil, drainage problems or neglect.  Use them only as a last
resort.  When chemical control is necessary, read and follow the
directions. 

I suggest you read "The Organic Approach to Home Gardening"
available at MOE.  
Other publications from Ag and Food are:  
Recommendations for Turfgrass Management; 
Turfgrass disease & insect pests;
Weed Control in Lawns & Gardens.

Please look after your lawn because it is my home too.

                                MOE GREEN