The following is a VERY preliminary draft of a decal FAQ. Please send comments and suggestions to Tom Savard, tasavard@phy.duke.edu. This article will be periodically updated and revised as information becomes available. Use any of the information provided at your own risk. 1. Tips on applying decals 1.1 Tips on applying water transfer decals 1.2 Tips on applying self-adhesive decals 2. Dry Transfer decals 3. Custom Decals 3.1 Cut and Overlay Type decals 3.2 Printing decals with a copier or printer 3.3 Heat transfer custom decals 3.4 Color custom decals with laser printers or copiers 3.4.1 On using wax printers for color decals 1. Tips on applying decals 1.1 Tips on applying water transfer decals From: wrr3118@h2o (Rick Russell) There are three critical things to remember when using water-soaked decals: I hate them. I hate them. I hate them. Perhaps that was less informative than it could have been. Well, there are some tips, I guess (but I'm no expert; remember, I hate them). Soak them plenty long, so they slide smoothly off the paper. If you don't soak them long enough, you'll just rip them apart. Slide them in to place as close as possible to where you want them; when they've dried out it will be too late to move them around. Work slow, giving each decal about 1 minute to dry before you move to the next, or an errant finger might shove a carefully placed decal or rip it in half. Blot them to dry and make sure all the air bubbles are squeezed out. I realize, I guess, that the water decals are demanded by the fine scale modellers because they are extremely thin and lie very flat. But I still hate them; I don't see what's wrong with the fairly thin self-adhesive decals used by Quest. From: alway@tarle3.physics.lsa.umich.edu I prefer to apply them to day-old gloss paint. Soak them until they slide at a *gentle* prod, and apply them precisely where they should go as you slide them out. It's easy to slide them a few millimeters, but you can't slide them all over the model. Compared to self adhesive stickers, this is *very* forgiving. On a gloss surface they look a lot better that self-adhesive stuff, too. From: curcio@telerama.lm.com (LarryC) I discovered a secret while doing experiments that required several versions of the same rocket: It helps to buy an extra kit for spare parts. Now if I screw up the decals, I can soak them off and try again. Of course, this approach isn't practical for expensive kits...:-( 1.2 Tips on applying self-adhesive decals From: tasavard@phy.duke.edu (Tom Savard) If adhesive backed decals are dipped in soapy water, they slide when first applied as well as the water transfer stock. Mix a few drops of dishsoap into a bowl of water. Dip the self-adhesive decal into the soapy water and apply. The decal should slide on the model surface. (If not, add more soap.) While the decal dries, the decal adhesive becomes tacky again and the soap dries clear. You may want to apply some clearcoat after the decal is dry to help preserve it. 2. Dry Transfer decals From: zing@hydra.nrlssc.navy.mil (Robert A. Zingarelli) They work pretty well on anything but the flimsiest body tubes; if you're really careful, they'll probably work just fine even there. They do need a clear coat though, to have any chance of staying on. 3. Custom Decals From: wrr3118@h2o (Rick Russell) As a miniatures painter, I've learned that many people can do more with a paintbrush than they give themselves credit for. Fine stripes can often be painted on directly, if you're not a big stickler for perfection. From: wrr3118@h2o (Rick Russell) If you want to do your own decal job, there are a variety of sources for good self-adhesive decals. Any craft store will have lettering, sticker sheets and other such things in a variety of type styles, as well as stencils if you want the military look. Hobby stores with lots of R/C cars or planes will have packs of self-adhesive decals featuring aircraft or automotive themes -- there are enough lightning bolts, shark teeth, flames, flags, wings and nifty stripes to make any rocket look good (although the "Quaker State" logo probably wouldn't be appropriate :-). 3.1 Cut and Overlay Type decals From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) If you want to do the cut-em-out-and-overlay thing theres Monokote Trim Sheets, or better yet pay a visit to your local signmaker. He'll sell you stuff that comes on rolls by the foot. Huge variety of colors and wild metalflakes. Make sure you get some of his special layup paper. Its a moderately sticky paer. The idea is you cut all your letters in alignment on the backing sheet, remove extraneous material, lay this stuff down on top of the letters, lift up (the letters will come off stuck to the paper), lay in place over the work (rocket, airplane, etc.) and rub down. Remove paper. The letters will be stuck to the model. He'll even cut you decals on his plotter- knife thingumbob for a fee. A little too expensive for my needs but it would look pretty. From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu (Roger Wilfong) In the past, I've made 'decals' for scale ups from trim-Monocote. The technique is: 1) Enlarge the decals from the original kit in a XEROX machine, 2) Rubber cement the blow-ups to the top of the Monocote, 3) Cut out around the decals and remove the excess Monocote, 4) Lay Firsket paper (expensive) or clear adhesive shelf paper (the brand escapes me - but it's cheep and works the same as Frisket paper) on the cut out. 5) Peel the backing off of the Monocote - the 'decal' is now on the transfer paper, 6) Position the 'decal' on the model and rub down the Monocote, 7) Peel the transfer paper off. You can make any decal you want, depending on the colors of Monocote available and your patience in cutting out the design. I've done markings for an Estes RAM JET, Centuri NOMAN and 'LIL IVAN this way (although IVAN was the absolute limit of my patience). From: fayne@tellabs.com (Jeffrey Fayne) Roland makes a 'personal' cutting plotter, but I don't know about it's capability or price, so I was thinking the next cheapest thing to do was to use a standard plotter with a cutting knife. Along the lines of decal cutting, I was thinking about using CorelDraw to scan/design a pattern, seperating it into layers by color, then plotting(cutting) each layer on seperate sheets of Monokote, then reassembling the pattern on the plane layer by layer. From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) [refering to the post above] The big problem is getting the knife to rotate. This is how the plotter knife thing works. From: berger@atropa (Mike Berger) The plotter has to have special hardware to rotate the knife or it won't work. Gerber and Roland both supply cutting plotters. 3.2 Printing decals with a copier or printer From: soc1070 As a computer graphics person, I have done quite a bit of experimenting with laser printers and making my own rocket art. I mostly stick with clear sticky-back type stocks, they are the cheapest and most available. I use Fasson brand, and I think its 1.5 or 2 mil. thick. It works good for large models but is a little thick for small scale stuff. It curls right out of the laser while it cools. Don't worry, though. It doesn't distort. Toner chips very easily off of the smooth finish, so be careful and as soon as you can, spray on an over coat of clear flat enamel or laquer. I tape the sheet down to cardboard then spray, Leave it for a day or so. This also makes it lie flat. From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) |By the way... a copy of "Flash" arrived yesterday. Its a newsletter |printed by "Black Lightning" - a laser printer specialties supplies |dealer. Its at home so I'm not going to post any addresses just yet, |but they have an article about making waterslide decals. The product |is a paper covered with water-sensitive glue that you run through |the laser. The deal is you can print circuits on it. Then you iron |it onto copperclad board, then soak in water. The toner sticks to the |board and then you etch it. The same stuff is used for decals - just |run this through a color copier, then spray clear acrylic over the |sheet and let it dry. Voila! Waterslide decals. 5 8 1/2 x 11 sheets |for $10. |They also sell things like color toner catridges (by passing the |paper through multiple times you can create multicolor designs) and |iron-transfer toner. Apparently the toner contains a volatile dye |so the dye migrates onto a shirt when ironed. Not too expensive |either - a 200-sheet transfer toner cartridge goes for $70 or so... | |I'll post some addresses soon.. honest! 8-) OK Here you go: Flash/Black Lightning Riddle Point Road, W. Topsham, VT 05086. EMail: 73130.1734@compuserve.com or walterjv@coos.dartmouth.edu I don't know if they'll send you a free copy but its worth asking! In any case its $5 a year (4 issues). Well worth it. Lots of neat info about small-scale publishing, how to make huge banners, laser printer care and repair, how to set up an ethernet LAN, printing checks with a laser, even an ad for Vermont maple syrup! Paper for waterslide decals: Dyna Arts Designs 3535 Stillmeadow Lane Lancaster, CA 93536. (805) 943-4746. Weird laser printer stocks (incl. Fasson I believe) Computer Business Forms, Inc. Laser Paper Product Div. 4343 Shallowford Road, Bldg. E, Suite 3, Marietta, GA 30062. 1-800-826-1988 Free newsletter! Write to above. From: rcktjim@aol.com (Rckt Jim) >From the latest issue of the CMASS newsletter, "The Sentinel": "A new product from Labco allows you to make your own water-slide decals using a personal computer and printer. For $10, Labco will send an introductory packet of three 9" x 12" sheets of special decal paper and comprehensive instructions. You supply the computer, graphics program, printer and clear overcoat spray. Labco's system can be used with injet printers (with smudge-proof ink), most dot-matrix printers, and all laser printers. For more information, write Labco, 27563 Dover, Warren MI 48093." I've been meaning to write away for this, but haven't got around to it yet, so I can't really comment on how well it works myself. Just offering it as a possibility. From: whitman@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov (Rusty Whitman) I have a catalog called "Paper Catalog". They have something they sell called laser labels. Its available in full sheets of clear adhesive backed stock at $19.95 for a box of twenty 8 1/2" by 11" sheets. It says the label is "virtually invisible" once affixed so all you see is whatever you put on the label with your laser printer. They also sell ColorFoil for turning black print into color print. You can get a catalog by called 1-800-A-PAPERS. I haven't tried these yet but I'm going to be making an order. From: soc1070 Whoa! Don't pick up that phone just yet. Just a note to all those following this thread about paper stocks. In any printing job, the stock is the cheapest part of the project. Print shops don't make any money on stock, they make it on run time. On the other hand, places like Paper Direct and Paper warehouse make there money on selling "speciality stocks" (like labels) to CONSUMERS, not print shops. Why? Print shops don't buy in low volume like 20 sheets. They buy 200,000 sheets. Label stock is not "special". Its as common as copy paper to any print shop. (Water slide, on the other hand, IS a special stock because the average joe isn't going to need it). What I'm saying is that $1.00 a sheet is more than ten times what you should pay for it. Our print shop here (in our office) will sell me the stock for 5 cents a page. The average Speedy Printing will (should) charge about ten cents a sheet. When I worked for a print shop like this, we always sold stock to walk-ins. Some may not, but call around. If you can't find any, email me, I get it for you at a reasonable price. I hate to see people get screwed by companies like Paper Direct. From: macman+@pitt.edu (Dennis H Lippert) [cautions on purchaising frosty (translucent) decal material] Hold it... I think what you're talking about is similar to (or exactly the same as) "Stickybak" (one company's version). This stuff is basically like a sheet of Scotch "magic Tape" (the frosted stuff). It's really neat for "mock ups" of lettering (aka playing with paint scheme ideas), but it's not suitable for "real" decals... because it's NOT 100% clear, and it does NOT "snuggle down" into cracks like decals do. From: soc1070 Don't think in terms of 'hobby' oriented material. This stuff is available at most quick print shops. Typically its called Crack 'N Peel, made by Fasson. It's a label stock for offset printing. From: Jim Cook Jim Flis once gave me the following advice: Go to your GOOD area stationary store. They should have some clear stuff suitable for running through a laser printer or photocopier. Some may be self-adhesive. Write down the mfg. and call them up. Explain what you are trying to do - they may have good advice and products the store doesn't stock. From: soc1070 You guys are over generalizing about the types of label stock that is *widely* available. First of all, not _all_ standard sticky-back (to differentiate from water slide) stock is as thick as an overhead transparency. The stuff I use is about 1 mil (thinner than a sheet of copy paper), is PERMANENT, and absolutly 100% CLEAR. It is made by a company called Fasson and is marketed as Crack 'N Peel. Our company buys it from a local paper company by the skid. We also use Mactac Starliner, which I also know makes clear permanent label stocks down to one mil thick. (We just use the colored from this brand). I talked to the manager of the shop here, and he will sell me the stock. I'll resell it to anyone for cost plus postage, which works out to 10 sheets for $4.00, or 20 for $7.00, if you can't find it locally. From: tasavard@phy.duke.edu (Tom Savard) Water transfer stock is made by first printing clear ink on the the paper backing. Then, the image is printed over the clear coat. Then, possibly another clear coat of ink is applied. The way I understand it, there's no such thing as clear water transfer stock--it's actually water transfer stock with a layer of clear ink printed on it. I've made adhesive backed decals with two materials. One material was a transparent C-Line brand laminating sheet that's normally used for (you guessed it) laminating. I was skeptical about running this through my laser printer, but I ran a hot iron over it to check it first. (Use at your own risk!) After printing the decal on the sheet, I sprayed clearcoat over it to protect it. Use light coats at first to prevent the toner from smearing!! After the clearcoat is dry, cut out the decal and apply as described above. The laminating sheet is thicker than a normal decal so I went searching for something better. I found some adhesive overlay sheets at a local art supply store, specifically Chartpack (brand) applique film designed for laser printers. It was thinner than the laminating sheet but it was translucent instead of transparent. (I just spoke with the store manager and apperently there is a transparent version designed for copiers but it may be thicker :( ) The translucent quality of the film looked invisible when adhered to white paper, but not when adhered to a glossy painted rocket! So, I painted the applique sheet the same color as the rocket before I printed on it. When the paint was dry, I cut off the boundaries of the paint. (I did this because even though the film of paint was dry, the edges where it's a little thicker were not and, in previous trials, made a little mess of my printer.) Since the toner didn't adhere well to dry glossy paint, a clearcoat as applied above was necessary. When applied, these decals looked much better! From: redell@pa.dec.com Having triggered the previous round of this topic a couple of months ago, I wanted to post a couple of possibly-useful factoids I've come up with: - A product called Mactac looks somewhat promising. It is a translucent stick-on film that is designed for laser printers and may or may not prove too cloudy in practice. I bought one sheet and plan to test it out any day now. Manufactured by Morgan Adhesives Co. 4560 Darrow Rd. Stow Ohio. - Possibly a better bet is Letraset FX film, available in matte and gloss. I suspect that matte may be too cloudy; I have a pack of gloss on order. Comes in packs of 10(?) sheets. Main concern is whether it is too thick. Both products are available in many serious graphic arts supply stores at about $1.00/sheet (8.5x11"). In both cases, I suspect that laser printers will do fine, but I'm not sure how my dye-sub color printer will take to the stuff. I'll post any results, positive or negative, when available. For water-transfer, the only thing I've found is ATP's "AD6000 Clear Decal", which claims to be designed for laser printers/copiers but seems to have a bad reputation at the copy shops I've asked about it. It also costs $5.00/sheet. 3.3 Heat transfer custom decals From: silent1@ix.netcom.com (The Silent Observer) If you're making a design in black (on whatever background), and putting it on a surface that can take moderate heat, you might also try direct toner transfer -- make a mirror-image laser print of the design to transfer, trim the paper to approximate size, then tape it onto the surface that's to receive the transfer. Now, go over the entire surface with a hot iron (the ones sold in hobby shops for applying shrink covering material are perfect, but a travel iron or soldering irion with heat control can be used for areas too small for the full-size steam job). Peel the paper off while the surface is still hot, you'll find most of the toner has transfered to the surface, and been reversed to right-reading in the process. It does help to turn up the toner or "darkness" control on the printer before doing this...puts more toner on the paper to transfer... From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu (Roger Wilfong) There is laser -> transfer process available for making PC board resist patterns using a laser printer. I've got something on it at home that I've been looking for since this was originally posted. Going from memory, it used special paper/film that you run through a copier or a laser printer. You do some intermediate steps that produce something that can be dry transfered to a copper clad circuit board. The 'kit' came with enough material to make several sheets of transfers and they worked out to about $1.50-$2.50 a sheet. I just have a sales sheet/order blank for it and have not actually used it, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. From: sbbrown@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Stephen B. Brown) I've got something similar for making PC boards. It's intended for photocopy machines, but I expect it would also work in a laser printer. These are just sheets of a heat resistant plastic, which can take the heat of the fusing process. Having photocopied a pattern onto the plastic, you turn it over, put it on your pc board, and run over with a hot iron. This transfers the toner onto the pc board. Then you etch the board--the toner is the resist. You can re-use the plastic sheets, once the toner has been ironed off. There are at least two complications for using this for decorating rockets. First, ironing the pattern onto a body tube or fin might be a challenge. Second, the pattern is reversed, so you'ld need to reverse it before printing it onto the plastic sheet. 3.4 Color custom decals with laser printers or copiers From: soc1070 One other option that I have wanted to try is the heat-transfer colors. Once you have a laser image, you lay a piece of special colored film over the image and heat either with an iron or re-run the sheet through the laser and let the fuser do the work. The color then attaches to the toner. Most of these colors are metallic, but there are some standard, non- metallic colors as well. Letraset was the first company to market the color transfer stuff. 3.4.1 On using wax printers for color decals From: jsvrc@rc.rit.edu (J A Stephen Viggiano) Seriously, what's wrong with wax? The images produced by the Phaser here are relatively flat -- is yours one of the hot-melt ink jet ones? I hear they produce stuff that's relatively 2-dimensional, as well. Are you concerned about the durability of the images? How the ink may crack off? As another poster pointed out, a spray of Crystal Clear or some other fixatif should solve that problem. Color printers do not as a rule use electrostatics because it is difficult to control. As a result, you'll find thermal wax transfer, ink jet, and other technologies. From: Roger.Wilfong@umich.edu (Roger Wilfong) Nothings wrong with wax. I'm happy with the output. [On the thickness of the printing] The deeper the color, the thicker it is - pastels are pretty flat. > Are you concerned about the durability of the images? No, for the most part they have been pretty durable. The solid colors are prone to cracking and flaking if the paper is folded a lot. The new batch of crayons that just came in is supposed to have better durability, but the hoppers are still full so I haven't tried them yet. From: ntaib@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Iskandar Taib) I went over and did some printing yesterday. You're right about the crayons - it does have that dithered look to it so I wouldn't use this for fine decals. However, for my purposes (markings and AMA number on C/L Combat ships) its perfect! The good news is that it'll accept almost anything for output stock. The manual says you can even feed it paper towels! I think FasCal would be just the thing to use - I can get it in rolls and cut it up to 12x18 (the maximum size this thing'll take). The FasCal will go over a colored surface, unlike the paper.