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The Right Stuff - Hints and Tips from APOGEE, the official
newsletter of the Miami Valley Rocket Society.

Questions or comments? Send E-Mail to Bob Hegwood, CIS: 76276,2552

Or write to: Bob Hegwood
             31 Pagett Drive
             Germantown, Ohio 45327
             (513) 855-7105
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Construction:

1. Before gluing the fins on your model, remove the smooth finish
from the body tube. This can be done easily using extra-fine steel
wool, and will provide for a much stronger attachment when the glue
dries. If you take the time to follow this procedure for the entire
body tube, you will also find that your paint finishes are less likely
to chip after a hard landing. (Bob Hegwood)

2. Before building that brand new model rocket kit, take the time to
make a copy of the plans. Save the plans in a notebook, and if the kit
ever goes out of production, you will still have the parts list and
step by step instructions which can be used to scratch-build the model.
You should also take the time to trace your own fin patterns from the
die-cut balsa fins that come with the kit. Do this before you round 
any fin edges or glue the fins to the body tube. Then, if you ever 
need a replacement fin, or you are scratch-building the whole model,
you will be able to make your own fins from the patterns you have
saved. (Fred Williams)

3. For smooth, easy fillets between fins and body tube, try using a
10-minute epoxy called GMP. This stuff is available from LOC/Precision,
and costs about $8 for two tubes. (One hardener, one resin) After mixing
in equal parts, simply apply the mix to your fin joint, and run your
finger over the application to smooth. Wait about 30 minutes and PRESTO!
The result is a smooth fin joint which is also very strong. (Bob Hegwood)

4. Before attempting to paint selected detail lines onto your model,
think about using colored tape instead. The Gemini-Titan kit from Estes,
for example, requires a tan ring to be painted around the base of the
Gemini capsule. This is extremely difficult to do using masking tape
and paint, and a much simpler method exists. Simply purchase some 
automotive pin-striping tape in the right color, and wrap it around
the base of the capsule. The effect is much cleaner, and requires a
lot less time. (Fred Williams)

Flying Techniques

1. Avoid those embarassing and time-wasting burnouts. When installing
your igniter, pry the pointed end of the igniter apart a little bit so
that the wires are not touching each other at the tip. Next, insert the
igniter into the motor firmly, with the tip touching the propellant, and
insert a small ball of flameproof wadding into the nozzle between the
igniter wires. Take a ball-point pen, and firmly push the wadding into
the nozzle as far as it will go. No masking tape is required. If done
correctly, you will find that you can actually lift your model by its
igniter wires, and still get flawless ignition when you press your 
launch button. (Bob Hegwood)

2. Avoid clustered model power prangs! When using electronic ignition for
clustered models, make sure you use at least a 12-volt motorcycle battery
as your power source. The smaller, 6-volt systems simply do not provide
enough juice to reliably ignite more than one motor.

(All tips from Volume 1, Issue 1)