***************************************************************
The Right Stuff - Hints and Tips from APOGEE, the official 
newsletter of the Miami Valley Rocket Society.

Questions or comments? Send E-Mail to Bob Hegwood, CIS: 76276,2552

Or write to: Bob Hegwood
             31 Pagett Drive
             Germantown, Ohio 45327
             (513) 855-7105
***************************************************************

Construction

1. How to use adhesive-backed label material on sport model fins
(or, a CHAD method of avoiding a zillion coats of sanding sealer):
Sand your fins to the desired airfoil, then give them a couple of
coats of clear dope, lightly sanding between coats. Place each fin
on the adhesive side of the label material, (See Figure 1) then fold
the material over each fin from the leading edge. Press the paper
down toward the trailing edge, (See Figure 2) then trim the edges
with a sharp modeling knife. After trimming, seal the leading and
trailing edges with a cyanoacrylate adhesive. (See Figure 3) Do NOT
seal the root edges. This method can be used on simple planforms for
a respectable looking finish. The adhesive paper is available in 4"
x 6" sheets from any good office supply store. (Fred Williams)

2. Yet another balsa filling technique: Since sanding sealer is
nothing more than clear dope with talcum powder added as a filler,
you can actually make your own sanding sealer to suit your needs.
If you want a really good filler, just add more talcum powder to
your sanding sealer. Less coats are needed in order to obtain that
smooth finish, and with a little practice, you can mix your sanding
sealer to the same constistency every time. (Jim Breckenridge, CSAR)

3. Having trouble spray painting those roll patterns on your Saturn
V? Have you tried masking fluid, drafting tape, and a clear base coat,
only to find that your edge lines are still fuzzy and indistinct? Try
cheating. You can make use of black MonoKote Trim to repair almost any
imperfection in a roll pattern. Simply cut out some thin strips of
MonoKote Trim, peel the backing paper away, and then press the strips
along the edges of your roll pattern as needed to redefine an edge.
This technique can be used to straighten out any paint pattern which
needs a straight edge. MonoKote Trim comes in a wide variety of colors,
and it cuts very easily with an X-acto knife. If you want to protect
your pattern after it's finished, simply spray the model with Krylon's
clear acrylic afterwords. If your model must be finished in Testor's
DullCote, you should still use the Krylon clear before spraying the
model with DullCote. DullCote will dissolve the MonoKote Trim if you
don't first protect it with acrylic spray. (B.H.)

4. Updated body-seam filling technique: Hobby-Poxy Stuff, when thinned
as described by Jim Breckenridge last issue, (Two parts Stuff, to one
part Pactra Thinner) is perfect for filling body tube seams. After
thinning, the "Stuff" has a shelf-life of about 6 months, and can be
brushed into seams using a standard modeling paint brush. Allow the body
tube to dry overnight, then sand smooth using a 220-grit sandpaper.
Afterwords, sand the entire body tube with a 600-grit sandpaper to remove
all imperfections. This technique works every time, and it's very easy to
do. (B.H.)

(All tips from Volume 2, issue 2)