*************************************************************** 
The Right Stuff - Hints and Tips from APOGEE, the official
newsletter of the Miami Valley Rocket Society. 

Questions or comments? Send E-Mail to Bob Hegwood, CIS: 76276,2552 
 
Or write to: Bob Hegwood 
             31 Pagett Drive 
             Germantown, Ohio 45327 
             (513) 855-7105 
*************************************************************** 
 
Finishing 
 
1. Bare metal finishes are usually simulated on a model rocket via
the use of silver spray paints. While this method can be used to
portray a bare metal finish, it is often very difficult to mask
an area, to spray it silver, and to effect the desired look. (You
DO have a choice of finishes using "metalizer" spray-paints, but
these also involve the use of "sealers" and may require some buffing.)
As an alternative, try using silver MonoKote Trim, or aluminized
mylar. MonoKote Trim sheets can be purchased at most hobby shops,
and they feature an adhesive backing for easy application. Simply
cut the desired patterns from a trim sheet, and then press them in
place on your model. You eliminate the need for masking and spraying,
and you have the option of choosing the type of "look" you wish to
effect. Since MonoKote Trim is bright and shiny, you can cover an
area and then simply leave it that way when you want to simulate a
mirror finish. On the other hand, if you wish to effect a DULL metal
finish, you can spray a little Testors Dullcote over the pattern once
it has been applied to the model. If you are using aluminized mylar,
the same techniques apply. With mylar, however, you must use an
adhesive to affix the patterns to your models. Microscale Metal
Foil Adhesive is recommended. (B.H.) 
 
Construction 
 
1. Looking for a sure fire way to fill those AeroFoam nosecones? Need
a gap-filling epoxy for good strong fillets? The larger hobby shops
sell a Hobby-Poxy product called Thixotropic Epoxy Glue, and this stuff
is perfect for making drip-free fillets where strong joints are required.
It's great for filling pits and holes, and it sands easily after it has
fully cured. The product comes in two cans; one contains a resin and
the other a hardener. When mixed, it makes a thick gel-like glue which
won't run or sag even on vertical surfaces. The working time is about
one hour, so you can mix a lot of it if you need to. The stuff sets
in about four hours, and cures to full strength in about 12 hours.
Just mix up whatever you need, and use denatured alchohol on your
finger to form fillets. The epoxy costs about $6.50 for both cans,
and it dries very strong. (Bill Curtin, CSAR) 
 
Flight Techniques 
 
1. Ok, you've just finished building that new plastic model conversion,
and now you're ready to fly. What motor are you going to put in it first?
Rather than guessing which motor will give the best results, take a look
at your trusty Estes catalog. Towards the back of the catalog, each motor
is listed along with a recommended maximum lift weight. Insert an unused
motor in your model, and then weigh it on a diet scale. (These are available
at most health food stores, K-Mart, etc.) When you know how much the model
weighs, you can use the Estes model rocket engine charts to make an
intelligent decision on which motor you want to try first. If your model
weighs over eight ounces, you should probably use a D12 motor for your
test flight. You should also use shorter delays as a model's weight
approaches the recommended lift weight of a given motor. (Fred Williams/B.H.)