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The Right Stuff - Hints and Tips from APOGEE, the official
newsletter of the Miami Valley Rocket Society.

Questions or comments? Send E-Mail to Bob Hegwood, CIS: 76276,2552

Or write to: Bob Hegwood
             31 Pagett Drive
             Germantown, Ohio 45327
             (513) 855-7105
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Finishing

1. Use the following procedure to get a great finish on your rockets.
Sand and seal all balsa, bass, and plywood parts as you normally would,
only do this BEFORE you glue the parts to your model. Make sure you
remove the mold seams from plastic parts (some industrious sanding
may be required on nose cones), then take the time to sand these parts
one more time using an extra-fine grit sandpaper. (400 or 600-grit works
best.) Before you actually spray-paint a rocket, wipe it down thoroughly
using a soft cloth soaked in mineral spirits, and then let it dry. This
will remove mold release agents, dirt, grime, fingerprints, and oil which
can cause a nice paint job to crack, peel, and/or bubble. Mineral spirits
can be purchased at almost any paint shop or hardware store.
(Ron Schultz - Macedonia, Ohio)

2. To create sharp, clean edge lines when you spray-paint a model, try
using Scotch brand Professional Grade Masking Tape. This stuff has been
developed specifically for detail work, and it stays put even on curved
and contoured surfaces. It works a lot better than regular masking tape,
and it's very inexpensive. A 3/4-inch by 25-yard roll (3M part #3401)
is available in the automotive department at your local K-Mart. The
professional grade tape sells for a measly $1.57, and it's a real
pleasure to use, especially on difficult roll patterns. (B.H.)

Miscellaneous

1. Use decal remover and/or paint stripper to get masking tape residue
off of anything! Does your launch rod have a real sticky spot where
that masking tape stand-off used to be? Pour some paint stripper on
a rag, and then use it to clean off the launch rod. Want to get rid
of the masking tape residue on those plywood fins? Use some decal
remover, it'll save you a lot of unnecessary sanding. (Michael Hellmund
- Parker, Colorado)

2. For those of you who own a MAFREC power supply, (See NCR Product
Reviews in last issue), I have found a MUCH better way to attach the
leads from your launch controller. Simply use wire-cutters to remove
the battery clips from your controller, then solder some female
electrical connectors (available at Radio Shack) on the wires where
the clips used to be. With this arrangement, you can simply plug your
launch controller into the MAFREC battery with no problem. The result
is a good firm attachment, and you don't have to mess around with nuts,
bolts, and battery clips. (B.H.)

3. Have you ever wanted to remove the paint from a plastic part, such as
a nosecone, but were afraid that paint removers or other solvents would
melt the plastic? Common automotive brake fluid will remove most paints
and lacquers without damaging most plastics. Simply soak a cloth in the
brake fluid and gently rub the paint to be removed. Do NOT soak the part
in brake fluid! I have used this method on many types of plastic in various
kits, and have had excellent results. Do not use this technique on balsa
or paper parts, or any other area which cannot be later washed clean of
all traces of brake fluid. (Gary Miller - From an article in the CMASS
"Sentinel.")

(All hints and tips from Volume 2, Number 5)