ÿWPCD ûÿ2BVP Z¦Courier 10cpiðÿÿ‰?xxxhyÂxþ6X@É“8õ X@þþþþþþþÿþÿÿÿÿÿÿþÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿPanasonic KX-P1124PAKXP112.PRSÛx Œ @ɇÏâóžX@3|xûÿ2B*************************************************************** The Right Stuff - Hints and Tips from APOGEE, the officialnewsletter of the Miami Valley Rocket Society. Questions or comments? Send E-Mail to Bob Hegwood, CIS: 76276,2552 Or write to: Bob Hegwood 31 Pagett Drive Germantown, Ohio 45327 (513) 855-7105 *************************************************************** Construction 1. Stop body tube ejection damage. These tips are useful whenbuilding any type of model rocket, although I use the techniquesmainly to prevent damage on higher powered rockets like the LOCMagnum and the King Viper III. First, the longer your shock cordis, the less likely you'll be to experience damage from nosecone"snap back." This damage occurs when the nosecone is ejected outfrom the body tube and it reaches the end of the shock cord whilestill travelling at a high rate of speed. The shock cord isstretched to its limit, then it jerks the nosecone back into thebody tube. Obviously, if you use a longer shock cord, you can avoidthis type of damage. Second, you can reinforce the fragile noseconeends of your body tubes so that they can withstand more stress. Iusually dress the inside of the body tube with something called"Fibatape." This is a self-adhesive backed, fiberglass tape whichis normally used to repair holes in drywall. You can purchaseFibatape at building supply stores (like Furrows or Builder'sSquare), or at any major hardware store. You'll probably have tosand the shoulder of the nosecone to allow for a good fit, but theextra effort is worth the trouble if you want to increase thestrength of your upper body tubes. (Jim Breckenridge) 2. Drill a couple of 1/16-inch vent holes into opposite sides ofthe main airframes on your larger, higher powered rockets. Sincethese rockets usually have larger internal volumes, and may flyfarther and faster than many of the smaller "model" rockets, youwant to avoid a pressure build-up which can pop the nosecone (or atransition) off of the rocket in mid-flight. Two 1/16-inch holesare sufficient to vent away any pressure build-up, and yourrecovery system will still deploy when the ejection charge goesoff. (Bill Curtin) Supplies 1. Want an alternative to Estes wadding for use in your largediameter model rockets? Go to your local K-Mart and look for a bagof Fairfield "Poly-Fil." This fireproof polyester fiber has theconsistency of cotton, and it's much easier to use when you need tofill a large body tube with wadding. A 12-ounce bag of Poly-Filsells for about $2.17. This wadding material is bio-degradable, andit won't make your skin itch like fiberglass insulation does. (RonSchultz)Ôh)0*0*0*°°ÔŒ™Finishing 1. Avoid getting spray paint inside your body tubes. When you'repainting a body tube with the nosecone removed, roll up a piece oftyping paper, and slide it part-way down inside the main airframe.Let the paper unroll so that it completely covers the inside of thebody tube. When you're ready to paint, the paper will keep anyoverspray from reaching the inside of the airframe. This method isvery easy to use, and it will make your paint jobs look much moreprofessional. (Ron Schultz, from the LOC Video. Used withpermission.)